How to build a deck ( Weekend Project)
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- čas přidán 18. 06. 2020
- In this video, we’ll look at how to build a small decking area for your garden.
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Thanks for posting..the best one I found..I will tackle my own small scale decking project in the spring..you rule..👍
Thank you for that! 👍
Such a useful space!
That
was very help full as daughter wants a small deck for her holiday batch thanks for that
That sounds nice. Glad I could help.
You did a great job
That's one professional looking deck
I need to step up my game next time
Artur Brzozowski check the Fort that goes on top!
Would have been useful to see how you concreted the supports into position but thanks for the guidance.
Great tip for working out the square. Thanks! We're in the process of doing this and good to see it looks like we're doing it tight. Great video!
Glad it was helpful!
I spotted my fleeting appearance on one of the time lapses!
Excellent job well explained
Thank you Sir! 👍
Man, I thought I was watching David Cameron building a deck!!
You wouldn’t be the first! 🤣
Nice use of Trignometry there ( Pythagoras ) , thanks
I love a practical application of theory! 👍
Congrats on the 100k views
Cheers bud! 👍
Hi. Great video, thanks. What type and size nails did you use?
I wanted to see how you did the posts, but very informational. Thanks
On a small deck like this stand the posts on a solid base (flag stone) and then screw the beams on. On an elevated deck concrete the posts in fully.
@@KingBespokeCreations I wanted to do a 12 by 9.5. My dirt is a little soft though. When it rains my feet sink in about 4-6 inches. what should I do?
@@MonicaMartinez-np5fe with ground that soft it would probably be wise to concrete the posts in. Dig the holes 9-12” deep then screw all the base and posts together before concreting the post holes.
Nice hello, what a lovely do it yourself project you are working on there. I'm carpenter by trade, and when you mount the patio boards, you mount them incorrectly. Many like you think that the grooved look on the planks is beautiful, which they are to us! but they are actually there for a reason. and this is because the wood gives way over the years, and therefore the grooves must turn down when you mount them, by doing so your boards will last many more years, and the grooves will otherwise collect dirt and algae, and be heavy to keep neat and clean, which we have a lot to say in relation to durability.
Incidentally, your boards would benefit from a slightly larger space as it will help with water and air can pass, which will result in less clutter in the long run.
@@Tvede2613 hi, thanks for the information. I understand both points you are making. However the boards were grooved on both sides, give us the better looking top to use. As for spacing, the boards were soaking wet when delivered and laid down. This would only ever create a bigger gap as they dry.
Regarding the grooves turned downwards..a joiner once told me the same thing at work..but somewhere along the line, the grooves started appearing upwards (rightly or wrongly) as an anti slip measure, and to disperse water. Now it has become a matter of choice for the amateur.
The film was right up my street, and I'm going to have a go in the spring..I'm going grooves up..👍
I recognise this style of board. They have dual grooves. One side is more grooved than the side he has facing upwards which will give better airflow. I'm just replacing our decking which has been down circa 10 years and the previous owner put the heavily groves on top which not only hurt your bare feet, but also had less airflow. So I think he has done it correctly in the video. The new boards I have are only single sided, with flat board on top and heavy groove for bottom (got a good price at the timber yard!) You can see his boards are fairly green still from pressure treatment meaning they will shrink more and likely leave a gap 👍 otherwise he would have been left with massive gaps after the shrinkage.
what size was the finished decking and how many deck boards/joists did you use? am trying to figure out what i need for 2.4m x 3.6 m. great video
It would need a bit of maths! Depends how wide each board is 👍
I’m want to replace some bark I have with a smell decked area. Should all the bark be removed first, or just some of it? If all removed, what should it be replaced with?
If the bark is doing it’s job of weed control, just leave it. I would only replace it with a membrane to stop weeds growing underneath the deck 👍
Better no background noise.
What size timber did you use for the base and the support legs?
2x4 beams and 4x4 post. If you built the deck higher you could use 2x6 beams
Are cross beams necessary for small deck?
Pretty much. It’s making sure the beams don’t flex and can’t warp under moisture changes too 👍
What timber did you use for the frame base?
It’s Pressure treated (tanalised) pine from the local yard.
@@KingBespokeCreations Ta!
@@KingBespokeCreations Thank you for this video - very helpful. Is that 2 by 4 that you've used for the joists?
@@dc10166 hi, yes on this occasion it was 2x4’s for the frame. On a relatively small deck and as many posts as it needed to feel solid, they work fine. If you’re going big, you could use 2x6 planks and have less posts needed in the ground.
The cement to hold the posts… Did you just pour some ready made cement around the posts or are does it go into the ground? (No experience at all here)
They have a little concrete slab under each and some mixed concrete to hold them in place. I would fully dig the post in on a raised deck
This was the only bit I was also interested in, however, the video skipped it all together .....all great otherwise
Why did you dig the corner postholes after framing the deck?
I like to work with practical measurements. If the frame is set and laid out the post will be in the right place. If I just measure and dig the post holes, it’s too easy to have them be a bit off!
@@KingBespokeCreations makes sense. So you framed, marked where the postholes needed to go, and then dug with framework in place? Or did you need to move framework much to get the holes dug?
@@nomsolo9935 most of it can be done with the frame in place. Not needing to go very deep with this one. But if you’re putting big posts in then by all means move the frame, or maybe stand it up out of the way.
Hat size is the joists, 2x4?
Yes that was enough here. Close to ground, you can easily put another post in if feel any flex
Could you tel me what I’ll need please
Fence posts for legs. 2x4 for the rails and then the decking planks. For the right amount of those, most decent wood yards will help you out if you give them the area to deck.
The decking boards are upside down. The grooves should be on the bottom.
No, they’re grooved on both sides. Ugly grooves on the bottom, nice rounded grooves on the top
Nails for the base ?? (screws) no spacing for deck boards...........
I’ve never had a large nail move, just pre-drill the first piece.
No spaces needed as the decking was soaking when I laid it. So will get spacing as it dries 👍
@@KingBespokeCreations Quality
More professional videos elsewhere on-line