How to fix a OVERHEATING CAR. Do this to BLEED all the air out the cooling system.
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- čas přidán 7. 06. 2022
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The easy no-tools method:
Pour coolant into the radiator, or if the radiator doesn't have the cap on it, pour the coolant into the pressurized overflow tank. Keep pouring until the fluid stops going down, then start squeezing the radiator hoses and "burp" as many air bubbles out as you can get. Fill the level back up, and then start the vehicle without the pressure cap on it. Now, you can either jack the front of the car up and put it on stands, pull the front up on ramps, or just quickly drive it a few feet to a place that is sloped so that the front of the car is tilted up higher than the rear, like the mouth of your driveway or something. That puts the radiator and expansion tank at the highest point, and air will always bubble up to collect at the highest point. Once you've got the bubbles burped out as much as you can and the front of the vehicle is placed up higher than the rear, start it up and then go put the heat on full blast. Go back out and look for leaks, then top off the coolant level if you need to. Start squeezing the radiator hoses again trying to burp out more air bubbles. Once you've burped out as many as you can at idle, go rev up the engine to 2,000 rpm for 5-10 seconds and go back out to top off and burp the hoses again. Once that's done, just go back into the cab and hold the engine RPM at 2,000 until the temperature gauge reads at operating temperature. Now, you can verify that the thermostat is opened up by feeling both upper and lower radiator hoses. If the top is scalding hot and the bottom is cold, it's not opened yet. If they are both very hot, the thermostat is opened up. Give the engine a few more revs while squeezing the hoses a few times without burning yourself, and then top off the coolant level in the radiator and in the overflow tank. Put a new cap on it, and you're done. Radiator pressure caps are like, $5-10. Don't cheap out on it. Just replace it. The system is now bled out, and any air that remains will be burped out by the cap as you drive it and that volume will be replaced by sucking in coolant from the overflow tank when the engine cools back down and the coolant shrinks back down and creates a slight vacuum.
The elevation of the front end is VERY important for FWD vehicles in my experience. I get the front end 1-1.5 feet off the ground above the rear end. I want the radiator or the pressurized expansion tank to be the highest place as I try to bleed it out. All air will seek the highest place in the system, and that means it'll bubble out into the atmosphere like you need it to. 😎👍 DO NOT skip the bleed procedure, and DO NOT call it quits before the thermostat opens up. Many thermostats have a little jiggler bleeder to allow air to escape while it's still closed, but there's still air that will rush out when the thermostat opens and the flow volume picks up a lot. If you drive away before that happens, you'll have a big air bubble still stuck in there.
Btw JT, if you fill and bleed cooling systems regularly, make yourself a vacuum filler and it'll speed up the process a lot. 💪😎
I’m sorry but I couldn’t read all of this
Ima try this, I keep having a problem with my durango 3.6 overheating & I thought I bled the system right until I heard about this method& But when I did it it drove fine after letting it sit for a day then started overheating after normal driving so hopefully this does the trick
@@Lavishlifestyle90 It is hilarious that some people have literally a 10 second attention span and would rather be ignorant. I really do not need to know that you're incapable of sitting still and paying attention nor do I care. Next time you feel the need to tell someone helpful that you're less attentive than a goldfish, do everyone a favor and just don't. It costs nothing, and it's the best thing you can do. Thank you for coming to my Ted Talk. 😇
@@angelleos3397 Hey Angel, happy to help! Questions for ya:
Did you replace the radiator cap?
Did you refill the overflow/reservoir tank fully and is it currently filled up to the full mark now?
Did you have the heater turned on when you burped the system the first time?
Are you sure that you installed the thermostat the correct orientation and not backwards or upside down? (there is a small check valve in most thermostats which will open up to burp air on its own without having to be open, but if it's the wrong direction or placed at the bottom it can't let the air pass)
Do you have any leaks?
The cooling system has to be free of air and under pressure in order to work correctly. Air bubbles cause water flow to be obstructed and they can collect in the water pump causing no pumping, near the thermostat causing it to stay closed, and near sensors for the fan which will cause the fan(s) to delay turning on or not turn on at all and it can give the dash temp gauge an inaccurate reading. Whenever the radiator cap goes bad or there's a leak somewhere, pressure can escape and air can get in. Pressure will escape when the engine is running and the system is very hot, and when there is no pressure the coolant boils at a lower temperature. Boiling makes steam which is basically the same issue as air bubbles. The antifreeze raises the boiling temperature of the water and the pressure raises it even higher. 10-18PSI is the normal range of pressures that most vehicles run their cooling system at. The pressure is labeled on the cap itself. Don't go higher or lower; always get the same one. Radiator caps are NOTORIOUS for being ok while in place for years, and then that one time they are removed after 5-6 years they won't ever seal again because their rubber gasket has a groove in it and it's hardened up from age. Luckily they're usually like $5-$10. :) The reservoir or overflow tank must be filled up because the radiator cap allows coolant and any small air bubbles to push out into it when the engine is running and the hot coolant expands due to heat, and then when the engine cools back down the radiator cap opens up again to release that vacuum caused by the cold shrinking coolant and it lets the radiator suck that coolant back in. If air bubbles are pushed out, it lets coolant back in to take the air's place afterward. If the overflow or reservoir tank is empty or too low, the radiator cap will let air back into the system after it cools down. :( No bueno. It's easy to forget to refill that tank so just double check it.
Hope these tips help. Good luck my friend.
@@mannys9130 I’m going to try your method tomorrow morning hopefully it works man, I did replace the cap but a cheap one from oreilys I think the original one tht was on it is actually better but I haven’t put it back on & and yes I did have the heat turned on when bleeding the system but I did just open up the bleeding screw from the thermostat housing and poured coolant into the radiator not the (overflow tank ) tht was supposly how u bleed my system nd not 4 sure if I had the overflow tank at the full line when doing this but do u know if no power steering fluid can cause air in your system also ? I had replaced the waterpump and thermostat already both from parts oreilys though…
If you ain't got the bleeder screw or a special funnel, just jack up the front of the car while idling with the heater on full blast.. air can find it way through gravity,squeezing the rad hoses while front in air helps too. Works well on fwd cars as well. Just be safe when jacking up car .
Thank you for the advice seriously
Unsure wtf is going on with mine ..a puzzle . I had head skimmed oressure tested under 2 years ago end of last summer went away while on a day trip it iverheated oretty good back then fans went nuts etc .......simce then new pump new ect (but got an oem to replace it asap) new belt new rad new ac condensor and regassed along with 2 flushes/clean detergent..
I'm.on top of it but back to exp tank filling but not returning to rad ..very bizarre indeed ..doing my sweed in I refuse to believe hg gone I even wonder if ut was bad anyway . My therm is at lower hose not top .I reppaced that with oem ..I'll be pitting oem ect I'm very soon amd agsin test fans via switch
The service manual states that the procedure for filling the pentastar cooling system *requires* a vacuum-fill tool otherwise it’s prone to having an air pocket in the system. I use a vacuum fill tool on every coolant job because it’s faster, less likely to have air pockets, and a way to check your work without doing anything extra. If it doesn’t hold a vacuum you know you need to double check everything and tighten that loose hose clamp 😅
If that 4.7 didn’t drop valve seats from overheating, then the owner got real lucky
use the matco venturi vacuum tool to suck coolant into the system and it also sucks all the air out. ezpz
The old school way is just run it with the radiator cap off until it stops bubbling with the heat on and keep adding water.
Lol really?
@@OnlineMechanicTipsthe method your describing is a failed method that I have tried in the past and has brought me to finding this video
Does that work
Thank you Sir
I did all this and still can get it to stop burping.... any tips??
Im fighting with air in my cooling system too! 82 KID is a Subaru
How did I know it was a jeep 😅
How would I bleed the coolant system if my climate control doesn’t work to turn on the heater?
Does airpocket cause all the coolant go to reservoir?
I think so cause my reservoir was empty now it’s full
My bleeder screw is completely stripped. Exactly like the one you have. What do I do.
quality vice grips or channel locks
Just use a Coolant Air Lift. It will pull all the air out in less time that letting the thermostat open to burp.
Yep, that is def an option. I do not have that tool yet
i thought this was some new trick
How long can you run a car that’s overheating and it still be ok? I bought an 05 xterra with a blown radiator. It runs really good, it just overheats. Is it toast after overheating a few times?
Pretty much yeah. Once the heads warp you'll pay what you bought it for to get a head gasket replacement AND have to get the head resurfaced at a machine shop. And that is only if the head is still usable. Overheating is not something to be taken lightly in the least bit. It is VERY serious.
You really don’t want the engine to get over operating temp. When things get hot, they expand, and components (especially the head gasket) will warp. If you notice the temperature gauge going over 50%, shut the engine off immediately and pull over. You’ll want to get a tow if you don’t want to fork over the cash for a new engine/car.
That said if your radiator is gone, you can still drive (very) short distances, as long as you can get there and back before the engine warms up. But I wouldn’t recommend doing that. If we’re being realistic here, if your radiator is blown, the furthest you can drive is somewhere that’s within walking distance.
I have a 2007 dodge charger SRT it requires 0w40 oil it has 250,000 miles on it should i stick with the recommend 0w40 or switch to a thicker oil? Will a thicker oil damage the engine? Please Help!!!
stick with the original oil. you only switch oil if your manufacturer requires it or if you have a separate engine build going on.
switching to a thicker oil means you won't get the proper lubrication between parts and you'll see extra wear, R&D teams know what oil is best vs some random mechanic (or worse, a DIY'er) who isn't an engineer.
@@alextheonewarrior thank you very much for your help my friend
Nice car bro
Would never trust a hillbilly
The good news is that you don't have to.
Your speech impediments made it hard to watch thos video.. Propper vowel usage and propper word pronunciation would be great..
You can always hit stop and take ya ass somewhere else. or better yet make some videos and speak the way you want to.,..Thats an option.
@@OnlineMechanicTips this guys trippin I understood everything thank you very much
Look at your English bro 😂
@@nopainnogain7776 lol, as you can see, I welcome all comments
@@nopainnogain7776 Hes a hater...lol