On Site with Matt Connecting up a new Cooker and Testing the Circuits Earth Fault Loop Impedance Zs
Vložit
- čas přidán 4. 07. 2024
- How to as electrician Matt is wiring up an new cooker in his latest on site with Matt video. Matt connects a new 6mm2 cable to both the cooker outlet plate and the back of the cooker. The video also includes safe isolation, polarity, the earth fault loop impedance tests and shows you how to wire up an electric cooker.
Sadly I (GAZ) deleted the footage when Matt went back with his torque screwdriver to the cooker connection plate.
== 🕐 Time Stamps - Cut to the action 🕕 ==
00:00 - Wiring a cooking up
01:10 - Loose connection causing overheating
03:19 - Connection on the cooker
05:18 - Connecting a new cable to the cooker
12:06 - Safe isolation of the cooker circuit
16:04 - Connecting the new cooker to the cooker circuit
20:18 - Testing sequence
20:59 - Earth fault loop impedance test (Zs test)
Videos are training aids for City and Guilds (C and G) and EAL courses Level 1, 2 and 3.
You can follow me day by day on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter lookout for "GSH Electrical.
▶️ FACEBOOK / gshelectrical
▶️ INSTAGRAM / brihzmraygdtmjmdb9lunq...
▶️ TWITTER / gsh_electrical
#GSHElectrical #Electricaltrainingvideos
So the previous cooker had no cpc connection to the earth terminal, good job Matt turned up when he did.
4
I’m not a spark but as a complete and utter novice who knows nothing about electricity and also one who is quite happy to leave these sorts of things to the pros even I could understand what was going on here !!! So well done Matt for making such an easy to understand video !!!
you knew what cpc meant thats good for a novice
Great video and nice to see that there are still craftsmen in this trade. Nice workmanship.
*but never bring a blade towards your hand ! 🤦🏼♂️😮
Clear concise and informative. As a trainee installer I find these types of clips very useful
Thanks 👍
Thanks. Nice to see the earth fault loop impedance done on cooker body also
never rely on any switch . If the old cooker was installed with a bit 2.5 old twin and earth how do you know the switch is ok [i have seen so many bodged installations in my time ]always turn off at the mains
Thank you Matt, nice, calm collected explanation.
Another great vid, keep them coming 👍
I came here for Matt, not disappointed 👍👍👍👍👍
What a video. I stumbled upon this after watching 2 you tube pro's. However, this video is the complete package. Well thought out and executed video. thank you so much. I can now move forward after thinking where the hell is my cable for my new bosch serie 6 double electric oven lol (they could have provided a 6mm 3 core cable). Thanks
Brilliant video great explanation on what you're doing. Looking forward to the next one!👍👍
Hi. Thanks for the positive comment and watching. All the best Gaz
Great video Matt 👍
Awesome man! Thanks vm! Bought a new cooker and installed it myself after watching your video. Saved me some cash for paying an electrician. Thank you 🙏
Excellent video tanx for the upload👍
Very satisfying Matt 👌 would definitely still isolate it's dedicated circuit as well as DP & test, as you're in a non-controlled enviroment.. Just in case say a family member flicks the switch back on, great video
Good informative video, explained in a cool calm way thank you
Excellent informative and thorough, thanks
Thanks for the information. Keep up the good work on educating us.
Links
Only a man of experience slides his stripping knife towards his fingers with force like that.
Great Video.
That should have carried a health warning.
I think there are safer ways to strip the outer grey
or a fool
He is giving me anxiety.
Thankyou so much for this video! Very informative and easy to follow 👍
Massive thanks for commenting and watching 👍🏻
Thank you for the work may God continue to bless you
Awesome video !
An excellent demonstration. Well done
Thanks
Never bring a blade towards yourself Brian. Basics 👍🏼
Another great video mate
Thank so much for your amazing video
Great video
Must admit, I had to shut one eye watching you cut the sheathing. Much safer to use the cpc 👍
You shouldn’t use the cpc to strip cable because copper is soft and it actually stretches it, slightly making it thinner, increasing the Zs an the protection of the appliance. But most people do would I would never recommend it to anyone.
@@jamanemaraashollington8760 You're not stretching the whole cable. You're stretching 2 ends by a millimeter at most which will have a negligible impact on the impedance. The benefits outweigh the risks.
@@jamanemaraashollington8760 lol
Using CPC works upon 1.5 or 2.5 but you will struggle on a 6mm and don't even bother on 10mm. I use a Stanley carefully to get through but I then cut away from my body/hand so far so good
If you can't strip a cable with a knife without cutting yourself, then your in the wrong job.
Thanks mate it was very helpful
Here in Germany wie use flex cables to connect the cooker to the wall terminals. That is much easier to connect and move the cooker after connecting the cable. The VDE standard also recommends the use of flexible cables for applications like this.
Eg H05VV-F 5G2,5 H05VV-F 3G4 or 05VV5-F 3G6
You crimp that flex cable aswell?
Nice, lots of tricks and tips in this from a pro 👍
Nice video, Just wondering what is the maximum load or amps that a 2 core 6mm, cable can handle? Thanks
Thanks so much did my cooker today .
Nothing wrong with the isolation carried out. You proved the circuit was isolated by the switch, that your tester was working, and the switch was within your sight at all times. Whilst not strictly by the book, it was safe. In fact, if you didn't have any lock offs with you, that was safer than isolating at the CU, because you could see the switch.
A Great Video. rely on Matt.
Great video mate
Thanks
Thanks Matt . Good video . Happy to see you doing what I would do . Did you mention the R1+R2 test too ( which is in addition to the Zs ) to be recorded on the 18th Edition certificate ? Adrian
Great video thank you
I've done it properly, thank you so much
Always turn the mains off at the trip switch if there is a trip for your cooker
What do you do with the loose cable behind the cooker. Is it OK to just feed it back with the unit, or do you have to use a heatproof shield?
Thanks
Hi, some people use heat resistance flex but in the case Matt used standard 6mm2 cable. You can do as you described 👍. Thanks for commenting and watching. Gaz
Good sparks
Nicely done Mr Matt. :) I fill in relevant certificates for ANY work carried out, not only is it a good personal record of works completed but it gives the next guy something to refer to in the event of a fault and may also highlight any existing faults. It really doesn't take long to do tests for the form, although 18th requires a lot more info than previous edition. Is there an electrician's version of avacado hand?
Awesome 😀
Lovely job. I do like how you give the CPC a loop at the cooker end always been taught to leave the CPC the longest if possible. A lot of cooker manufacturers recommend heat resistant flex for the cooker connection. At the CCU I have found some manufacturers double up terminals gives you more of better connection was this not the case with his one as the top terminals were loose?
this is why there is a torque rating so your connections will not become loose
What are your thoughts on Zs calculations so theres no need to work live? after all we are only supposed to work live if its unavoidable.
Just wondering if it may be better to confirm polarity at the actual cooker connection?
Hi Matt, great video. I'm in the process of doing our kitchen up,and we are having a built in single oven next to a built-in combi microwave oven. Can I supply one 6mm cable and spur off the socket for the 2 ovens. Or do I need to run 2 separate 6mm cable to the consumer unit. Many thanks. Regards Glen.
One 6mm and a dual cooker control unit to spur x2. These ovens usually come with a flex so use them. You have to be careful on correct size breaker though. Instructions will say. Usually 20 amp with allowance for diversity. 10 A plus 30% of the remainder of the total connected load, plus 5 A if the control unit includes a socket outlet
Very helpful.I'm useless at stuff,but this helped.I'm still stuck though,I don't seem to have the right wall connection?
Very formative and good video. I just have one question - when would you use heatproof cable rather than twin and earth? Is that just used on integrated cookers and hobs? I’d welcome your thoughts on this. Thanks.
Totally agree 🦾
So would heat proof flex been the preferred choice for this installation? Thanks.
Very good thanks
Thnk you so much
Is the sleeving essential on the earth line. Also is it better to use a 10mm cable too. Thank you for reading
Thank u done same one 😊
👍👍
Matt. Can’t thank you and the other lads enough mate. Lovely to see you guys helping us inexperience sparks how to commit and complete. Very much appreciated. Question on testing; is there any difference in testing a circuit which is wired on 3036 fuse board? And where can I possibly locate those information on testing that kind of fuse board please?
Links
Thanks for the feedback and watching. No different tests if the circuit is protected by a BS3036 fuse only the max circuit impedance (Zs) will be different. 😁👍
@matt what do you use to twist the copper so neatly ?
Thanks
I was going to try and fit my electric cooker when I bought it next month, after watching this I will pay an electronic to do it lol.
A qualified electrician. 😲
I paid for them to do it.But do they uninstall the old one and install new one in
@@m101ist it's super easy to fit a gas cooker, not so with ab electric cooker
Thanks for video, is very helpful. I have a question about cable please. I brought new 10,6 KW cooker, can I still use 6mm cable for, or I need different one???
Thanks once again
Hi, it’s all to do with diversity check the rating plate. 30 or 32 amp fuse and 6mm cable with be fine 👍.
@@GSHElectrical Plate shows 45 amps. Can I use 6mm?
Onsite guide states any cooker under 15kw a 6mm and 32amp breaker should be used.
Wow nice
👍🏻
Tip: vegetable oil rubbed on that sticky grease will get it off with ease. Even extractor fans. Just let it soak for a bit.
What booklet was the screenshots from please?
The best thanks
as the oven can be moved to clean under / behind would H07 6mm flex be better?
Steve Potter 100%
Hi do we have to put a sleeve on the earth cable @9:43 ? Or can we leave it exposed? My cable did not come with a sleeve.
You should always sleeve your CPC, nowadays Most CPCs are insulated so you don't need sleeving anymore
good video, and I know its commonly done and its a 6mm circuit, but as a training video, is a 6mm t&e the correct cable selection, manufactures instructions should be followed when installing new equipment, high powered ovens normally always recommend using a 80- or 90- degree temp, oil and grease resistant cable (min 4mm). use a 3183tq cable as the t&e used does not have these properties, or refer to chapter 52. 522.2 talks about heat sources, would 522.5 (AF) include oils and grease I'm not sure. not necessary for this but 521.9 gives info on flexible cables for connecting equipment.
I’d prefer not to use flat twin and earth to cookers. Usually try and use ho7. More flexible and designed for that use. Could possibly get away with 4mm with it too having a higher temperature rating
matthew Dawson this was going to be my advice :-)
HO7RN-7 Flexible cable is nearly recommended by all appliance Manufacturers for the final connection, in the manufacturer's installation guides.
I was always taught that "the manufacturer instructions are always paramount".
Another let down by the Electrical Wholesaler's, not to keep on the shelf what we Sparky need!
CEF Electrical and Avonvale Electrics have been stocking H07RN-F cable for years .
Another good video.
I also agree. Crimped and terminated, much easier to pull in and out. However I wish manufacturers would allow or a larger diameter round cable (Ho7 into their cooker connection units) at the rear of their appliances. Fiddly and fragile is an understatement.
I agree flex is better suited as twin and earth is designed for fixed wiring. But 521.9.3 covers you for t&e on cookers
are all the cookers, or what we call Ranges, hardwired? In the US we use 4 or 6 Ft. plug ended cords that are rated to 50 Amps. that way, if the appliance needs to be removed, its just unplugged and then moved. the only built in appliances that are hard wired here are cook tops and built-in ovens.
Is that socket on the wall part of the cooker circuit or on a seperate ring circuit ?
Cooker circuit 👍🏻
When you apply diversity you are allowed to have a socket on a cooker circuit, refer to the rule book
A question please
Does length of 6 mm wire from circuit cutter to cooker matter?
Has to be long enough for you to move the cooker out for cleaning purposes and maintenance, refer to the rule book for more information
Great idea to show how to complete a certificate would be appreciated.. 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
Hi. I am sure Matt is planning to do that 👍. Thanks for commenting and watching. Gaz
@@GSHElectrical following
Hold on... that minor works cert for additional lights seems to have all the wrong figures for TNC-S does it not?
Mine is also a 32 amp rcbo with a 6mm supply to the cooker connection unit, but my cooker is only 4.2kw which is only pulling about 18 amps should I still use a 6mm from the connection unit to the cooker or would a 2.5mm suffice because it is cable of a 25amp load current?
Refer to the rule book 2.5mm PVC copper cable can carry a current of up to 24 amps, this rating depends on the method of installation
I’ve done the same many times especially if I’m alone in the property and know that nobody can flick the switch on whilst I’m working!
Is there a recommended or permitted length of cable to allow for maintenance. Also would like to see the actual connection unit being wired in. Good demo' many thanks.
Hi. You need to be able to pull the cooker forward to access the connection and for maintenance. Thanks for commenting and watching. Gaz 👍
@@GSHElectrical Thanks, I guess 1.5 to 2 meters is fine.
OSG states that the control switch or cooker control unit should be placed within 2 metres of the appliance.
@@ashmanelectricalservices4318 Thanks Alvin.
I will NEVER use a knife to strip wire, you risk damaging the conductors (as seen in the video, but often worse).
I start the end and use long pliers to peel the grey back whilst gripping all three conductors.
This is a skill to be learned over time, so you get quicker.
Little use for a sharp knife in a sparkys tool kit I agree. 👍🏼
what circuit is the hob wired on ? can lop the hob from the cooker circuit?
Yes this is then considered one unit
Hi where is 10.2 reg
I could find in the iet 18th edition blue book
Yet some manufacturers, Delonghi for one, don't recommend T&E for the final connection, they recommend heat-resistant flex
👍🏻
I'm not electrician but shouldn't you be using heat resistant cable it's black and it's round to the back of the cooker
My cooker has a plug on it but I need to join it to the main twin & earth core cable. How can I do this? Any help massively appreciated!
Is it a mini cooker and that is the rating of it?
can you help me iv installed my new cooker the grill and oven is working but my ring hobs are not?? 😢
I don't know about other organizations.. But if you issue a certificate of any form through Napit the work done is automatically covered by them for 6 years.
Would never rely on a DP switch as the isolation point, as you said though, you've already discussed in previous videos the correct safe isolation procedure of locking off and applying notices at the MCB.
Hi. Appliance repair engineers always use the local DP switch for isolation to items such as showers, IM heaters, boilers and cookers. We would expect all our learners to isolate at the consumer unit👍. Thanks for commenting and watching. Gaz
It could be argued that isolating from a local DP switch is actually safer as both the line and neutral conductors are disconnected whereas isolating from the circuit breaker would only disconnect the line conductor.
True if there's a shared neutral but a wouldn't think their would be in a cooker circuit. Also some idiot could just come in and switch the DP switch on if you went out the room for a minute because its not locked off.
@@MrKwelsh If you have to leave the room for any reason, you should re-instate any cover plates and re-confirm that the circuit is still isolated before re-commencing with any work.
hello wish measureamet is the cable longer?
Most ( old time sparks me included) connect how you have by switching of the DP cooker switch ... yes I
Know now they switch of the Mcb now days and yes it is modern practice to do so ..as for seeing T/E ( 2.5) I’ve seen many kitchen fitters. Do this ... and handy men. Will add I allways wire cookers from the mains in 10m as you can never tell what size cooker people buy thease days ...
are you doing this in a library
I am a bit confused. The Wiring Reg (18th Ed.) says in 521.9 (Selection and Erection of Wiring Systems) Equipment that is intended to be moved in use shall be connected by flexible cables.
Like: H07RN-F Rubber Cable - 3 Core 4mm2 would be perfecty enough. (PCP neoprene is also oil and flame retardant.)
Max Length: 29.04 meter.
The 6mm2 twin +E is not flexible. I am just asking. I have seen other electricians using flexible for cooker and hobs.
Thanks
I would go with your answer 👍🏻
Who would move a cooker hob around in use ? so why use flexi if a cooker is not intended to be moved in use.
How much would this service cost?
Please help me how to connect stove which as 6 terminal
I thought he would have to used 6mm heat flex from the plate to the cooker. Just wondering but I always use a heat resistant cable in these cases.
You will struggle to find 6mm2 flex. Have you seen the size of 6mm flex. Try to terminate that it in the tiny connectors that ovens have.
Flex also needs a ferrule, with one of them on you have no chance of getting it in the connector. Ovens are not moved around. Twin and earth if fine.
Knife work a bit scary though.
0.66 ohms on a 6mm2 circuit seems quite high. The r1+r2 would put that at 63m of cable, So i presume you had a high Ze, or its a long run.
Love the videos. keep up the excellent work.
Boro Bert Good comment. You know your job. Are you in the UK?
@@borobert7649 Yes, that Zs does seem a little high to me too... Could be high Ze, loose connection within the circuit or ageing accessories, some further investigation definitely required.
Can we don't cover the earth cable with cover and connect it ?
Hi. Wondering if anyone could help me. I bought a cable for my electric cooker and its got to be 6mm2 minium. I purchased a 6mm2 off ebay and it came today and on the cable it says 5mm2? Is this this correct or have they sent me the wrong cable?
They have probably send you the wrong cable
with 6mm twin&earth what is the max RCBO tybe A or B ?
Type A RCBO because of the high inrush current of the cooker(refer to the rating of each), if you use a Type B RCD or RCBO it will cause it to trip straight away when you turn on your cooker, the cooker neutral wire needs to be connected to your main neutral terminal at your fuse board, not at your RCD neutral terminal bar, there are separate neutral bars. One neutral bar for RCD RCD-protected circuits and then your main neutral bar for circuits not protected by an RCD.
High inrush currents are usually found with inductive loads. A cooker element is a resistive load so I would say type B RCBO would be ok
So 6mm is good to go on the wire
Are the 6mm standard size for cooker cables?
Sort of but checkout the power rating of the over/hob. Gaz 👍
Actually you don’t need to use 6mm2 for a cooker circuit . As when you apply diversity it is unlikely for the cooker to use it’s full load 4mm2 is perfectly fine for a 15kw cooker 6mm2 is throwback from the 50s . But if the circuit is wired in 6mm2 then you must use the same size between the cooker connection unit and the cooker as you can’t down size. Reference John word did a video on this well worth. Watching
You need to follow the safe isolation steps! The important step is to lock off the device protecting the circuit you are working on ; in other words you need to go to the protective device at the consumers unit and switch it off once you proven the cct its live first! Then prove dead at the point of work ( point of work in your case is the cooker onnection outlet... & go back to the breaker lock that off! USING A PADLOCK AND KEEP HOLD OF THE KEY!
Another point to note is that the testing gear need be of an approved type ( a multimeter or voltage indicator sort you are using may not meet the safety standards for safe isolation!) Need be a dedicated proving unit kit ( the probes cable need have no fuses and have visual indicator lights and be one piece & of a gs 38 standardised) A mar tin dale manufactured kit will met the criteria - I'm not affiliated to them!
Cooker isolator is there only to switch the cooker on and off by the user and Not for safe isolation purpose.
Can I use 4 mm on 10 kw cooker on 31a cb??
Refer to the rule book
I'm new to this, in my wall socket its the red and black wires to the sides, and the cpc wire in the middle, however my cooker wire is blue and brown I dont have a clue as I've connect it but cooker not coming on
Black/Blue= Neutral, Red/Brown= Line
Hire a pro electrician.
My wall don’t just have nice holes to stick them into???