This build is SKETCHY but this monitor is SOLID! - BenQ EX3415R
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- Thangs.com
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I have always gamed in 1440P, for me I think its the perfect balance between crisp imagry and high refresh rate. One thing ive never tried is gaming on an ultra wide. Well today that changes, BenQ has sent over there new 1440p ultrawide gaming monitor the EX3415R and we are going to give it a go. Not only that we are going to try and mount it to my racing chair, hopefully I dont break this thing.
Models used in this video
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BenQ EX3415R Monitor (US)
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BenQ EX3415R Monitor (UK)
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Next Level Racing GT-Lite
amzn.to/3bhnEDs
Logitech G923 Racing Wheel and Pedals
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Logitech Shifter
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Filament
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The moment when you are in bed and drop your phone on your face. Imagine that with a monitor...
Hahaha
that made me lol...... dropped my phone on my face in bed too many times
OUCH!
Imagine someone make this setup and put it on their bed🤣
My phone dropped many times on my face to the point were i just move my head so it hits me on the cheek
if u notice, the monitor is slowly coming down, in no time its broken (again) xd. Nice try tho
I can't imagine that that thing didn't come down on him already, should've been in the video
Yep.saw that too
Anyone used something structurally sound like Makerpipe.com to avoid being crushed by their monitor rig?
Agreed. Even for an injectionmolded part this would be tough. Display fixtures are always done with metal or composite materials.
Nice, a sim rig that actually needs a crash helmet, and not just for immersion either, your head needs protection!
I would recommend to make four struts reaching up from the mounting clamps to the monitor mounting plate.
Those two skinny struts holding up the monitor will always be a point of structural stress and prone to break.
I fully expect a pinned comment soon saying : "update : it fell on my face while I was beating my fastest time on (insert track here)"
1:00 Bold words my friend.
Narrator: "He said, activating the jinx"
Maybe instead of round pipes, try hexagonal printed pipes (but print them horizontally so the layer lines working in your favor like you did with the blue ones) the hexagons should have more strength.
In addition to revised pipe cross section, I'd suggest more of a ladder frame design. You could keep the swoop and the general design, but add a second upright on each side, in a second plane further back from the monitor, and at a 45 degree angle looking down from the chair centerline. Then tie the two members together with triangular girders, mixing elements in tension and compression.
This is a fantastic hybrid of a 3D printing video and what I believe was your original intent of a gaming hardware channel! As a fan who was attracted by the fan showdown videos, though...
If your print is snapping on layer lines, go hotter or cut the fan power. PET-G also seems to have better layer adhesion than PLA, though it is actually less rigid, which seems to be a significant factor here.
Surface area is cheap in 3D printing because of low-density infill. Rigidity can be attained without a huge material cost by expanding the profile of the structural members.
PLA is actually very rigid and has a high ultimate tensile strength, but isn't good for dead loads close to its structural limits because of creep.
Designing your prints to fit bar or tube stock for long rigid structural needs isn't cheating unless you're really on a mission to make the whole thing 100% printed.
Wall layers do more than infill, per gram, for most or maybe all kinds of strength.
Grid infill is good for axial loads and rigidity, live or dead. Cubic infill is probably good for non-axial rigidity and dead loads.
I would have used pvc pipe for any straight rods in the build and just 3d printed brackets to hold them in place.
I love the effort you put in it already! It is a very challenging project... Hope I can help with my experience/knowledge:
The higher the monitor, the higher the torque (or moment of inertia) on your contraption. Try to put it lower. IRL the window of the car in front of you isn't that high anyway, it is more behind the steering wheel.
Because PLA is more elastic than steel, try to avoid bends in your pipes (doesn't matter if they are rounded or not), these are places with a lot of forces and they are the place where it will bend, because the bend is already initiated.
Another way to counter bending is make larger diameter piping, especially around the bottom of your structure, where you have more forces, because of the bending.
And if you want to put a bend in it, try to make de corner of the bend, the corner of a triangle or triangles.
The triangles in your contraption you used are rather small: try to get the higher points as close to the VESA-mount as possible and try also to get the clips on the bottom as far apart as possible... Try also to put the center of gravity vertically in between the clamps/mounts you made.
PS: this is hard for me to explain in English, not my native language...
#trustmeimanengineer
Just fyi: DVI and HDMi are electrically compatible, so there are cables that go from one to the other without needing any active conversion
my thoughts aswell
I dont' know why but the monitor wiggling around while the car is shaking on screen is making me laugh.
best opening 5 seconds ever
And left us in suspense if the monitor survived!
8:34 i saw those 10 secs like 50 times already and every time my heart like goes OOOOO!!!
I think it would be at least a great episode if not series to investigate around ways to improve stability of 3D prints. Like different ways of coating the final product or using the print as a molds or stuff like that.
I would use some sort of composite over wrap, for this particular application.
czcams.com/video/HVgPM1ojyLw/video.html
This guy's video is a great tutorial on how to do aluminum casting using your 3d printer to create the negative.
For a final coat, you can use epoxy resins combined with fiberglass for some great strength.
@@pinpetos even just a stiff fabric would make a big difference.
Most of the strength is in the resin.
I do think the design could be significantly improved with just a few tweets.
In fact I'm going to try that myself, this solves a very similar problem I've been having.
@@jtjames79 Typically the higher fiber content provides even better strength and stiffness, and continuous fibers provide better strength and stiffness. Really depends on how far he pushes it.
You sir are now one of my fav CZcamsrs, using a STI as your rally car, there is no other option lol
I'd go much lower with the monitor. Get it so that the bezel is almost resting on the wheel base, and so that the wheel rim overlaps with the wheel shown on the screen. This will also be less wobbly due to the arms being shorter.
Maybe a TPU bumper and it actually does rest on the frame/wheel housing.
I recently went from my 720 laptop to a 3070 driven 1440p monitor. Kinda wanted to cry when I first saw what modern graphics looked like.
Wrap the tubes in Carbon fiber thread/weave, and then seal it in in epoxy resin. CNC kitchen did a good video on the technique. Spiraling the fibers in both directions for best strength!
Too much work for something that's basically a monitor stand. Using thicker parts and carbon infused filament is sufficient enough and probably much cheaper than that. I actually did stuff like that before and know at least a bit of what I'm talking about.
This is the first monitor review that I can recall demonstrating the onboard speakers so thank you.
@Major Hardware Add surface indentations and ribbing protrusions to give the monitor frame additional strength. I can't remember what's it's called, like suprasurface textural support or something. You can find examples of it on SpaceX Starship's exterior or interior hull which is how it retains certain rigidity levels without having the necessary material mass otherwise needed. Not sure if I'm making sense but I'm sure someone will eventually chime in.
The engineering safety factor on this build needs to be increased
It is being _closely monitored._
Maybe try wrapping the tubes in fiberglass? That was really bouncing around.
Definitely this!
I'd wrap them in steel.
Or just make them in steel.
I would just lost pla cast this into metal, but thats a whole other type of project.
I'd shoot them full of expansion foam and hope they held.
@@NicCeb I think the problem with foam is that its good in compression and bad in tension, much like concrete.
That look on his face when it fell is classic.
It's hard to tell if the cracks are on the windscreen of the car or on the monitor because it fell down, but hey..... that's what I'd call immersion 😋
Great build you put together there. I probably wouldn't trust it under full tilt though.... instead of going through the windscreen in a crash, that windscreen might go through you 😅
Luckily i don't get motion sickness when wearing my vr headset. The only time it happens is when I'm driving quickly in reverse and slam on the brakes. There's that slight feeling of "ooohhhhhh, that was weird" 😳. Then again, you shouldn't be driving backwards in a racing game anyways 😉
I have a Q270, and a Q271 -- catleap -- moved them upstairs to our guest room for a mac based office, I'm dating myself. Maybe that's why I ended up getting a Wasbi Mango, and it's been my primary monitor for almost 3 years. These imports are pretty rock solid in my experience.
Happy you ascended, Ultrawide Master Race welcomes you 😎
It's kind of cool how every time the wheel feedback kicks in the screen shakes in sequence. With a stronger support design you might be on to something good here.
You could easily leave an inner sleeve channel for steel rods, or even aluminum or galvanized steel tubes. They are super cheap at Lowes and Home Depot. Maybe print solid nylon or ABS joints. Go with a with 0.6 to 0.8 nozzle (hot and slow) layered lengthwise. Then coat/soak the structure in resin (maybe with metallic dye) and/or wrap the exterior in carbon fiber mat, followed by another resin layer. Sand and polish...it would look killer.
Also, you have some harmonic resonance that is going to destroy it. It needs horizontal stabilization across your support members to kill that resonance feedback. Make it laterally rigid. Some of it could be coming from the chair itself.
I personally think that what would work best is a series of support structures going over the seat and attaching to the back of the chair. It'd likely cut down a lot on the shaking, which from what I can tell, is primarily caused by being attached only to the wheel mostly in one area, which granted it may work as well as the overhead supports, but would also decrease the amount of space for moving in and out, as well as leaving the single support angle as a potential failure.
The disadvantage would be the material cost being larger than before, which also depends on how tall it needs to be. But on the upside, it'd look a lot more like a racing simulator. Which I think would be very cool.
Just discovered your channel. Every video gets better and better
10:03 "It's hard to tell if it's the car that's wobbling or it's the monitor" It's the monitor!
Honestly, please use some carbon fiber infused material for this and make thicker parts in general. Also not just round pipes. You should at least add some more detail inside it for more strength.
But even with carbon infused filaments, you will still have a wobbly monitor setup. You might only be able to fix that by having additional support between the bar of the rig and the bottom side of the monitor. Something to keep it steady on the corners of the screen.
I would not even use this construction if it were metal.
You need more forwarward backwards stability at the monitor. Its to flat, you need more triangles in the back.
But yet another awesome video. Thanks. :)
"seems pretty stable now"
I'm watching a thouand dollars wobble itself into certain demise.... Just use pvc or aluminum bar and 3d print joints dude. Way less.... Nerve wracking
0:06 unexpected Doug DeMuro
:D
Ultrawide is the best. I am saving up for when 32:9 come down in price a little more. That to me is the perfect FoV. At desktop distance it almost completely fills your gaming FoV. And I will not go back to 1080 even for that FoV, so need a $500 priced 1440 at 120mhz. Until then I am good with my Acer UW.
The mount needs to have the 2 pipes not connect into a single. They both need to snake back in parallel, with lots of x bracing between them. Also need some x bracing between the towers to prevent twisting during the rocking as well. I know the more plastic the more expensive, but we are talking about mounting a $1k monitor so spending double the plastic for strength would not be terrible.
Starting an episode with maximum grimacing. I haven't grimaced this much since Yong Yea knocked over a brand new console during an unboxing.
actually this was worse.
My heart is not prepared for that intro
8.42 got me 🤣 great video bro love the idea of something this.
I think I'd go for building it out of PVC pipe from the hardware store rather than 3D printed parts - splodge it up good with the weld compound and give it plenty of time to cure before putting it under stress, maybe even drill and tap some long machine screws through the fittings to be extra sure. (Before prices skyrocketed this past year I'd have said to get a sheet of plywood and some black paint, and make it into a little three-leaf booth that could stand in front of your chair and wheel setup, but you'd think they started making it out of solid gold instead of spruce...) Your little snap-on stand is sure a cool looking doojimmie, though.
I love 21:9 1440P, Iv got the Budget Xiami one, and its great 144HZ and 44" Gsync can work on it, but not if i have my other Gsync monitor plugged in... but overall I love it.
Time to get into metal printing :)
I wouldn't trust that mount . I would redesign it to be beefier and increase the number of outer layers . Maybe also increase the infill percentage .
Greetings, engineering student here yeah having four legs merge into to two support beams is a disaster and it happened to you in the video, Best recommendation is to as again stated in the video print on the long axis and don’t merge the support struts just make four separate struts that are offset
Edit : or just heat up some PVC pipes
You should try placing the display as low to the steering wheel as you can. That way your real steering wheel and the in game steering wheel line up better. Way nicer for immersion and would be easier to make more stable. Maybe you could print something that also gives it a resting spot on the housing of the steering wheel. And then support struts to the frame like you did here.
5:02 Wait, what? Did you say "one thousand" instead of "999"? I love you, Major Hardware! I wish every youtuber did this instead of reinforcing these awful marketing manipulations with nines.
Mission successful! Well to be fair I would NOT trust this with a $1000 monitor but you could easily use this as reference and build this mostly from plumbing parts, throw in a good vesa-mount and end up with a sturdy stand.
I think I would have gotten some black threaded pipe from the hardware store as the vertical member in the rig.
So one idea I have to make this setup better is instead of 100% 3d printing it. You can 3d print the connection but for the rest use PVC pipe. It's way strong then what you have in the video and cheap. Still what you made looks good and worked. Good job
Be sure to let us know when that thing snaps off again. It's gonna happen, we can see it swinging back and forth like crazy.
I put the monitor back on my desk, this mount is something i would only use with that catleap monitor lol
You should try and make them a little stronger. On structural prints I usually use a .06 nozzle with 4 perimeters. This makes the outer shell about 2.4mm thick and prints almost twice as fast. This allows me to make parts i can stand on, and they won't break.
1440 ultrawide is definitely the master race god tier view mode i just wish devs would get on the boat
in G-Hub turn your turning radius down to 380-degrees for more realistic turning physics like a real-life rally setup rack & pinion would be.
PVC pipe and fittings may be better. I would recommend sitting monitor on floor instead of that metal bar. When you steer, you are rocking that monitor which stresses the printed parts.
I have a 3D-printed PETG arm that attaches one of my monitors to my wall. It has held up for a year, though I did make it significantly chunkier than your design and it does not have to deal with any vibrations.
But anecdotally anyway, the concept is sound. I do think your implementation in the video looked pretty scary though, like you said. :)
if you haven't already done so maybe check out where to get some nylon based filament, it's supposed to be a lot stronger, there is a new video up on Hacksmith vlogs channel, (weekly vlog 7) where they talk a little bit about it and show off the tensile strength of the bendable version off it, might give some rigidity to those arms ^^
Print the tubes solid and add a couple stabilizing bars that go from the front bar clips to the bottom of the monitor
Woo, someone else still running a catleap 1440p display! I'm not alone!
I would get to wooden bars left and right. Then 3D print little holders to fix it to the bottom and middle steel bar and a 3D print for a thin vesa mount to the wooden bars on top. That way you have stiffness without spending a lot of money.
Welcome to the 1440p 21:9 gaming club!!!! You literally cannot go back, ever.
Make the stand as if you are making a roll cage for a car. Approach the idea from that point of view so it can support itself and the weight is evenly distributed across the structure.
As an upgrade path you could consider the Samsung Odyssey G9 49" 32:9 5120x1440 240Hz 1000R HDR1000 VRR/GSync-Compatible display for simracing for ~1,600 USD.
But whatever you do: Please buy or build a proper stand from metal or wood for these monster devices. The stands are not very expensive in comparison of the display's value.
You need a more massive table to dampen the vibrations, I used to game on a steel frame glass top corner table on a G25 and it was just heavy enough to not shake the monitor noticeably.
7:55 those "feet" as you call them (in red) are Lego hands but bigger lmao
Disclaimer: I haven't yet watched the whole video
The slug makes it's return! :D
make the pipes more beefy so they are less likely to break if you accidentally hit it or jar it too hard. Also, if you made the supports I beam type, that would increase the strength because the I beams shape is very strong.
Gsync works with any Freesync capable monitor because compared to Nvidia, AMD made Freesync open so any hardware manufacturer can add support for it. And any Nvidia GPU since 10 series supports Freesync monitors via DisplayPort when Gsync is enabled.
Uhhh ... I mean I applaud your ingenuity. But ... uh ... there's something to be said for material strength when choosing what to build something out of. I'd have just gotten some lumber and 3D printed some parts to help fasten things. Actually, I'd have probably looked for parts in the store I could repurpose and 3D printed only what I couldn't find. Because ... material strength.
Also, I'd have probably used something ... ANYTHING ... as a stand-in test weight before I put the actual expensive monitor on there. But hey, sometimes luck is a ... thing ... that works ... in your favor. I am wondering if you could take the 3D models you've got, hollow them a bit, and fill them with cement or something. Because even if it holds ... sort of ... for now, plastic ages.
Lots of good ideas in the comments to improve this, but as my wheel support hardware stands by my side, and the monitor in front of me is held by and adjustable arm, I can't help but wonder how much easier (and safer) it would be to just adapt a mounting point on the wheel chair/hardware to screw a monitor adjustable arm....
How about printing it in wax filament and doing a lost wax casting with aluminium? It would be a long term solution and very solid
what if you were to fill the open tubes with something that solidified, like a plaster or resin or something? then the weakest points would be the fittings where there's multiple layers going on.
I would have made something more like the rollover cages seen in off-road vehicles...a ton more material... But the center of gravity would be better distributed...
Looks like its a bit high and leaning forwards at a fair angle. Might be worth trying to print supports that move it down a bit and back slightly so you can have it at a more vertical angle (doesn't need to be perfectly vertical just a lesser degree IMO ) that should help with some of its shake as the weight would be more over the supports rather then infront of them
forgot to mention, I think this is pretty awesome. I'd want something like it for MechWarrior 5 & X4 or similar games
I commented on the community post the other day with the image of the mount. If you texture the tubes they will be stronger.
My wife has that same old Bose Mini Soundlink. OMG it sounds like an entire damned stereo! And the battery lasts forever. It's why I married her, actually. :-P
Use some metal tubes and make the base thicker with some horizontal and vertical supports where you add metal rods in it. This is NOT gonna last
Yeah, a not too aggressive curve like 1800-1900 is nice on 31" and above, but nothing smaller. Even 27"s looks bad with a curve imo.
A couple fun facts:
1) They’re actually called “guy-wires,” though yeah, intuition does indicate that they guide something.
2) VESA is commonly like veh-sa, not like the credit card company Visa. Consensus of picking between the two hasn’t been made
3) Many gifs have been made and it’s more controversial than VESA…
You just blew my mind with the guy wires. Also what a dumb name but nonetheless mind blown
I know this is kinda stupid but it may be fun to check out.
There's these 40mm alphacool radiators for servers and I can't find any videos or other reviews of anybody testing one of those with normal consumer hardware.
Maybe you (or someone else here) might find it interesting to test how much heat they can remove with some standard 40mm noctua fans. You know, for science.
"But that's too easy!"
- Oh noo, you had to say it.
1440p is a nice sweet spot, but 144hz is GAME CHANGING
If you draw a straight line between the mounting point of the monitor and the attachment points, that line is mostly in fresh air not in material. This tells me you have a lot of unnecesary bending moments going on and this is why you have alot of flex. It's like sitting on a stool with leaf spring legs instead of straight stiff legs. Also, you've designed it like a metal component not a 3d printed component. You can use any cross section and internal structure you can imagine and it can vary infinitely along its length. How about a swept boss that goes from round to an oval at your bends to maximise the resistance to bending, and even have gussets to reinforce?
You could also buy some cheap aluminium thin wall tubing you can cut with a junior hacksaw for all your straight runs and just print couplers.
Have you looked into turning ur prints into metal by coating the prints in ceramic and burning out the pla then using the ceramic as a mold to pour metal into? In this particular case I think welding would be the way to though.
Alternatively u could print molds (using boolean subtract) and use fiberglass.
I need to get into welding
@@MajorHardware That will open up a new world of possibilities!
You also use a Mini SoundLink as your main speaker!? My man. It works so well
I'm using a SoundLink Color II with a very old headphone amp which has a DAC (Headroom Total BitHead). Sounds so much better than anything else I've tried! :-D
i would probably try to fill the tubes with spray foam to add some rigidity and glue the pieces together and paint it black . Cool design and it works
Assuming those are tubes and hollow, fill them with resin.
You sir, are more brave than I
Hans•G was the first monitor I ever bought and it was when flat 1080p panels were still around $500. I got it for under $150 and everything about it was garbage tier. But I loved it anyway
In your defense if you're trying to go high speed rally with everything precariously mounted before you, I think ya did quite well good sir! Love your setup ideas and would love to see your refinements/tweaks that you made in the end for better stability. Or maybe even 3d print a whole case/mount for your old monitor? Be a hell of a way to keep getting life out of it!
question. Could you laid a small metal rod in during the print to strengthen the core of the stand?, The same way as one would put rebar in concrete to reinforce it.
I got one of these too, my wife uses it for photo editing to this day. Toddler decided to clean it with tweezers a few days after unboxing it tho. Sigh
I was holding my breath the entire time he was racing with that thing
I have my own simulator it uses a g29 and I built the frame out of wood and a racing seat I also got the shifter for the g29 but waiting for a 3080 as a upgrade.
I just bought my first monitor and seeing the clip at the beginning of the video gave me a heart attack.
The legs are thinner than I expected them to be. But they held up well considering how heavy that monitor must be.
When getting into the chair, grabbed the screen and put some torque on them.
i think the odyseey G7 which is 700-800$ and is 1440p 240hz 32" HDR 400 1000R curve VA panel but they do some sort of magic to get it to 1ms GTG which is roughly correct in testing. so for 100-200$ less i think its a steal
great video I'm surprised no one has released one made out of metal
Awesome! Your the man! I'm going to get printing this weekend on this. Thank you again. BTW if I can some how figure out to make it more structurally sound. I'll send you the files
Ya need a stunt double