Assembling a vintage Frankland Quick Change rear differential | Redline Update #88
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- čas přidán 18. 07. 2021
- This week, we make more progress on our vintage dirt track race car. Davin sets out to assemble a vintage Frankland Quick Change rear end with fresh bearings and maybe a few "custom" pieces that he's not quite sure where they go. It's always an adventure when rebuilding somebody else's old project! Follow along as Davin takes us through the process of pressing (hammering?) in bearings and making sure everything is lubed up and torqued appropriately.
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it's not a freezer that you need, its liquid nitrogen.
It is not more difficult to contract than to expand, thermal expansion is pretty linear. It's just that the oven is 150+°C, the freezer is at best -20. Liquid nitrogen being -200, it would contract the thing as much as the oven expanded it.
Dry ice = frozen CO2 - is easy to get and works wonders. Regular kitchen freezer... not very cold. Zero degrees vs. minus 100 degrees.
Also, very impractical.
Also the higher chance of snapping it. Remember the colder it is the more brittle
You're spot on Damien, liquid nitrogen is the way to go.
I have never had any problems using the freezer for shrinking bearings. They dont drop in just light tap with a small hammer
The joy of the internet, so much advice available 😂
Most of the time, when not asked for!
You're lucky, didn't have so much easy to find info when I was young
@@BruceLee-xn3nn neither did I , I’m 64.
Coefficient of thermal expansion is based on per degree. Like someone else suggested you need to go colder to do it. Use liquid nitrogen or dry ice.
I've had success with this method using a deep freeze to shrink the race and oven to expand the bearing. As you note though there are many factors in this method working or not, but the regular freezer on a fridge doesn't come close to cold enough.
Awsome isn't it. The change has to be exponential. I have used dry ice in heavy industry but never found it more efficient than just a press and balanced heat when possible.
Or just press em real quick. 😂🤣
Check rotation torque after the cram nut is set .
Dry ice and alcohol
I worked for Frankland Race Supply with Fred Bratchie building those rear ends. We just warmed up the housing with a torch for the pinion nose bearing. Drops right in. There is a seal for right side tube called a Seals-It, keeps gear lube from going to hub. The outer races I just used press to seat in place. There's an upgraded w piece nut for pinion to lock it in place. Gears are usually placed big on top small on bottom. We always checked gear swipe pattern and lash before final assembly. Used a dial type inch pound torque wrench and dial indicator for lash. great rear for dirt cars.
I’ve changed thousands of bearings over the last 50 yrs. & never froze nor heated them, but heating the aluminum housing will be a big help!
I don't know how much you get a thank you for you outstanding videos but this buds for you THANKS MAN FOR REAL MEN OF GENUINENESS 🇺🇸
Full disclosure -- Davin is human after all! Who knew...
I've not done a Franklind, but I've have done a lot of Hallibrands. The support bearing on the pinion on a Hallibrand is a shrink fit in the case. The proper method is to heat the case with a rosebud torch and install the support bearing. You also assemble the pinion and bearings outside the case using and old quickchange gear to hold the pinion in a vise. This makes it much easier to tighten the pinion nut. Once you have the bearings assembled with the proper preload, you again heat the case with a rosebud torch and install the pinion and bearings as an assembly.
I never used a gasket on the QC cover, but I did run Hallibrand.
I learnt something today as a non mechanic who purchased a Winters Quick change. One the rear gears and how that works "MUCH APPRECIATED" Thanks 👌
Your "running torque" reminded me of re-packing old style wheel bearings, all by feel. Good stuff, Thanks.
exactly
Assembling a masterpiece,good job and thank you. Great tricks added.
Always looking forward to the restoration of this race car. Can't wait to see final assembly
In aviation we use Dry Ics to shrink bushing, etc. in order to install. Majority of the time the Maintenance Manuals also state to do so.
Excellent assembly & socket mod. 😎👍🇨🇦
Good music, clearly explained and interesting project. What more do you need.
Music is too loud though....kept having to adjust the volume to hear what he was saying after turning the music down.
What else? Liquid nitrogen, obviously!
the CLTE for general mild steel would max out at .00145" shrink over a 4" diameter so there would be no appreciable movement. You would need a 250F reduction from room temperature to shrink a 4" diameter by ~.007" to allow the press-fit to slide in.
Great info, can't wait to see it racing!
To install the ball bearing into tje2 housing that you were concerned about. Use to large flat washers even double up on the washers if necessary. A large piece of fine threaded rod and 2 nuts. That will draw the bearing in no sweat no damage
I love all these videos!
Buzzy Riutamin taught me about the Dana quick change at Flemington back in the 70's.
Living fucking legend. He's still racing in Florida at 80 years old!
Cool! Even the old ones came with extra parts! 😁
Dry Ice to contract the races of the bearings works like a charm. Most welding supply shops will carry it in stock!
A regular freezer will only get as cold as the outdoors during the winter so the bearing won't get cold enough for a loose tolerance. Otherwise the would fall out during the winter untill the warm up lol. You need to use dry ice to get anywhere. Good luck looks great.
Custom tool creation! Well Done.
Great job! Congrats and thanks for share knowledge! 😄😄👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Very cool. I've always wondered how a quick change rear-end works.
Loving e very thinking you all are doing!!!
Beautiful!
As always you give us a top entertainment 👍🏻
Warm the case. Aluminum expands a lot so it doesn’t take much heat to slide the bearing in.
That half case is cast iron.
Nice modify👍
Thank you!
Be careful how hot you make the bearings, If the steel is turning that brown colour, you may be messing with the hardening/tempering. If it is just cooked grease that another thing.
That just might be the prelube by factory to prevent rusting - but good point 😊
I use an electric frypan with gear oil in in for heating bearings, I don't trust dry heat like that
Buy a milwaukee heat gun. Just couple of minutes with one of those and its hot enough to fall on and no chance of overheating
Well Done Davin .. Well Done .
Brand New! Nice Job greetz
My transportation teacher in high school always told us to put gasket sealer on one side and grease on the other side to insure that we could get the case open in the future without ruining the gasket.
“Y’all said freeze em, they’ll go on easy. The results determined that was a lie”. 😂🤣
Good job
We just pulled one of these out of a vintage circle track car. It was a Lynn center section and uses the same 48-52 F2 Ford Truck bells that this one uses. Ours has the truck hubs though. Hoping to find some of those old school Franklin aluminum hubs.
we ALWAYS put the bearings on the pinion 1st,set pre-load and THEN dropped the "loaded " pinion in the heated case-as per Frankland instructions!!!
I use a can of air... Upside-down... to freeze bearings. Gets it colder faster.
Killer build ! Love the out of the ordinary!
On the heat and shrink topic. Yah a liquid nitrogen is cheap . However, a liquid ni dewer is very expensive . Upwards of 800-1000$ bucks. (Depends on where you get one) You can almost duplicate the nitrogen on the race install by freezing the race( as was done), then careful and thoughtful application of a mapp gas torch on the seat area of the axle tube. “Falls in” . Remember however , the smaller the items your dealing with, the less the amount of shrinking or expanding you’ll get for a given temperature. This is why ring gears on flywheels fall on so easily with just a small amount of heat.
"Have a guess with Davin!" Complete new Show..
In the last component shop where I worked, Aviation, There was a special thermos of liquid nitrogen. Used for bearings / races on rotor heads.
This is Magic !! 👍 Only CZcams that comes close are the Watch guys 👍 You certainly take my mind off of COVID-19 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧😎
Perfect opportunity to break out the swing press!
Well, after all these years - someone explained the quick change diff in normal terms... I've heard people make it sound more complicated than the Hydrogen Bomb. :)
there is set of gears on the input of the diff... one is smaller one is bigger(different combo exist depending on what you want) swap those 2 gears and you swap from low to high. thats it
Has to be a lot colder - try dousing it with freon or propane or if that offends you then pack it in dry ice. You can also warm the bore that the race goes into. Trick to remove a bearing race - arc weld a bead around the inside of the race - when it cools the race shrinks and will fall out.
liquid Nitrogen is the correct way to apply thermal shrinkage for metal to fit, however dry ice usually works pretty well too, a standard freezer does not get any where near cold enough to cause any sort of thermal shrinkage.
The microwave trick is pretty cool for heating bearings. You wrap the bearing in moist paper towels and nuke for a minute or so. It warms them nicely!
In the freezer you're only dropping 50-60 degrees from air ambient compared to raising 200-250 above in the oven. I use a Fry Daddy filled with synthetic oil (higher burn temp). They are cheap and available. I agree about brass tools. I make punches with rebar. Softer than puppy poop and grippy with oily hands.
I worked for years manufacturing gears so the gear that drives the other gear is called the driver and the other is the driven.
Not being a professional we called them the primary and the secondary
Davin the builder " you can do it "
Like a glove 👍
The way that I was taught (years ago) to drive a race in with a hammer,
is to would take an old race of the same size and use it as a driving tool - thus never directly striking the new race with the hammer.
Looks just like the socket I made for the sprocket nuts on old Triumph motorcycles, socket was $8 at the farm store.
Nice smile sir 👍
Finally something I want to watch. I don't care bout how much the latest electric car makes your "fizzy bits fizz."
Okay, seriously you could not find a piece of pipe that size? A lot cheaper than a socket and a piece of pipe to just buy a 6" piece of pipe and leave it on the press.
We used to have a cooler box, put race in it, then put CO2 in the box from a cylinder. It worked a treat and was much colder than a freezer.
Cover all your paper gaskets with a liberal coating of white lithium grease. The grease will swell the gasket for improved sealing, they will never leak and they will never stick.
Nice !
Two minutes in, no "relative to" and "in respect to", I suppose he tries and that explains the increased non verbal communication through his hands. Put two water melons in the hands of a Georgian and he's lost for words 🤣 (the Georgia in Caucasus)
Davin, you are the best!
Locking nut is both directions, up and down.
My opinion on heating a bearing vs freezing a bearing is that the item changes size a certain amount per degree, in either direction.
You can easily enough heat the bearing by 200F over room temperature. You aren't gonna even get half that difference in a freezer, so of course it's not going to work as well.
Looks right to me
Очень познавательно, всегда интересно смотреть.
Pipe dope works good for gear marking compound as well
Oh i know you’re on to the next project. where do I find a follow up on the 51 Cadillac convertible, I think it went over the auction block the other day… would like to see videos on the rest of the rebuild restoration.
Precisely why I kept my old toaster oven! New bearings don’t heat themselves 👍🏻
Cold works but you gotta use dry ice or heat the receiver with a propane torch if you are only using the freezer.
I know this comment will get buried at the bottom...but for the mystery washer I think the location is right, but between it and the nut there should be a claw washer. @12:42 you can see one of the splines in the shaft goes all the way through the threads. @9:23 you can see witness marks on the inner diameter of the washer that suggest another washer was there and not the nut. Thanks for posting these videos, I love watching and learning on all your projects.
My initial thought for supporting the middle of the main housing was to use a scissor jack, but then I don’t have a nice vise to use.
Love the video! Never seen one of these, but this is awesome.
Any chance someone knows what the music is? Would really like to get that.
Cool , I have never seen the inside of one.
Mike
liquid nitrogen works. drop into a container of LN2 till the boiling stops. take it out with some tongs and quickly drop it in the housing
Everyone has a bottle or two of liquid nitrogen layin' around!
I use to have access to it when I worked maintenance in a fab shop.
These comments have me like 😂🤣
Nearly as good: liquid CO2 - I let them sit in the freezer overnight, then I use a can of compressed air (carbon dioxide) keyboard duster from Walmart, turned upsidedown so the liquid will spray out on my part. It'll freeze things to a ridiculously low temperature.
A co2 fire extinguisher works most of the time
@@Bird76Mojo76 emergency beer chiller
You didn't mention a thing about how to adjust the ring pinion lash witch is why I was looking at your whole video. I'm guessing there's washers behind both bearings.
Those truck axle bells are some heavy SOBs.
You skipped installing the ring gear carrier, I was curious about that.
Rule of thumb for steel. You change in size .000006” for every degree of change.
Heh put the decimal in any spot.
6 millionths per degree "per inch"... size matters. :D And just as an aside, aluminum (6061, they vary a little) is a little over double that at 13 millionths, magnesium is about 14 millionths.
I think it only works using a freezer, if you heat the other part. In order to gain the maximum clearance potential. Otherwise like others have said Ln2 is the way to go for shrinking.
Pinion pre-load shim? (mystery washer)
That ring and pinion thou, damn set looks like 4.56s 🤣 maybe even more drastic
9:23 it will be ok if you install an o ring to eliminate the slapping on that washer and at the same time center it? And something else: why don’t you remove the ball bearing seals? It is better that way?
Dry ice works great for shrinking bearings sleeves and anything else that could use to be a little smaller for installation purposes. Definitely a higher success rate but again it isn't perfect and sometimes
Good hands.
We always did our Quick Change Gears the opposite of how you're doing it. The bottom change gear is the Drive Gear and the Top Gear is the Driven Gear. Big gear (Higher tooth count) "Fat Boy on Top" gives you a lower gear ratio (Higher Numerical). Fat Boy on the Bottom makes it a Higher (Numerically Lower) final drive ratio. I think with your 22 tooth gear on top and your 20 tooth on the bottom you will have a 5.34:1 ratio. Just check your numbers manually and remember that Fat Boy on Top is always a Lower Gear. We almost didn't qualify one night because we had no pull off of the corner and we weren't up in our RPM Band.
A little carbonic ice would have worked better than the freezer . Cool video .
You can get a can of that air duster stuff and turn it upside down and squirt it at the item you are trying to freeze instead, its like dry ice in a can
One of the things we did while I was working on aircraft wheels was that 1st the bearing races had to be in the freezer for a minimum of 72 hours. This ensures that the whole race reaches the low temp you want. but we would also heat up the rim 1/2 in an oven to help. Considering your setup in the shop I realize that's not exactly feasible for these parts. But it's something you might want to keep in mind for other items. Just a thought. Maybe get a used full size electric stove to use the oven part for this?
Also, set the freezer control to max for this, that way it gets to sub-zero temps. Not by much, but every degree helps.
I try to use the original bearing race to drive in the new one. If the outer race is recessed I invert the old race so I can pull or drive it out after the new race is seated.
You have to be mindful of the delta. When you stick a the inner bearing assembly in the toaster oven, heat it to 400°, and the room temp in the shop is 68°, you have a delta of in excess of 300°.
But in a freezer that’s 30°, and room temp is 68°, that delta is only 38°.
To use the freeze method, you put the races in a pressure pot with about 5 lb of dry ice. Let the ice melt in the pressure pot till it’s liquid, them open the valve. Instant -200° bearing races.
Great info! We’ll have to give it a try.
Have that exact same toaster oven. Just heated a tortilla in it. No bearing though ;P
Is the running torque you were talking about basically the same thing as bearing preload? Or are they two different things
It was cool how you made that gasket but it’s aluminum on aluminum, grey RTV would’ve been fine.
Also if you want to make your gaskets re-usable coat both sides in wheel bearing grease and it will keep it from sticking.
“When you hit the track” You better !
That washer I think is the pinion shim
I wonder about the fit of the side bells with gasket v/s no gasket since the carrier bears on the races in the axle tubes. Does that change the bearing preload enough to be a concern?
Actually thermal expansion works the same way on either side, your temperature rangers were off, heating things up usually are done with a blow torch or oven, easily rising temps to (100+ C) 250+ degrees F, but a freezer will sit at (-4 C) 30 degrees F. So it didn’t get cold enough to really size down, try other methods of freezing like Dry ice or liquid nitrogen, that will more less be similar to heating up the metal. Also try both, freeze the insert and heat up whatever it’s getting inserted to!
I've been using a microwave to heat bearings. Before anyone informs me how they work I KNOW. The trick is to wrap it in a WET towel and don't let it dry out. This isolates the metal and regulates the temperature to 212°f or 100°c it works great.
Seen that on aVe a few yrs back , haven't had an opportunity to try it yet.
Whatever you do, dont throw a few old cd/dvds in a microwave for 10 secs. They wont make blue sparks all over between the plastic layers and leave a spiderweb pattern.......
Cool