In this video I show and describe the uses of the jacks on the rear of the trailer. ~-~~-~~~-~~-~ Please watch: "Kubota BX Grading and Filling Hole" • Kubota BX Grading and ... ~-~~-~~~-~~-~
I saw a guy off-loading his tractor have that same thing happen. He, his tractor, his trailer and his truck all went scooting down a hillside because of just what you said. Needless to say, it wasn't long, and he installed stabilizer jack stands on the back of his trailer like yours. Thanks for your video good job.
I have the side crank swivel version (Curt 28302) welded to my car hauler. What I did was cut the crank handles off and welded on a 13/16 bolt head (same size as my lug nuts). Now I can use an ugga dugga gun on them AND the handles aren't flopping around. I also welded a deep socket to the cut off handle so I still have that option plus an emergency lug wrench in the toolbox.
I've thought about doing that. I made a socket that fits the jack handles as is but a but would be better. I may just weld a nut to the jack handle. Then I'd still have a jack handle and I could use it with a drill. IDK if I would use and impact. The jack may break from the hammering.
I had thought about changing a flat but I had not thought about servicing the bearings or brakes. I'm not sure about picking the trailer up with much of a load on it.
i build campers, trailers, and bug out vehicles and have been putting rear mount jacks on for at least 20 years. you would prefer a side crank as opposed to a top crank. you will never have a load get in the way of the side crank. for the camper and sportsman builds, i now put drop down outriggers for stability with jacks on the front, jacks on four corners for leveling out the trailer. figured i might as well tell you. i invented a a jack several years ago and showed a person that patented my invention and started the tressle jack co. its all good. every animal in nature steals right?
I thought about the load getting in the way with the top wind jack. I also thought a top wind jack would be faster than a side wide so that is why I went with it. My intent was to make an adapter to run the jack up and down with a battery drill. I hate it when people steal my ideas. I mostly try to keep my ideas to myself. I have not had anything good enough to patent like your idea. That would be very upsetting.
Jack speed differs from company to company due to gear ratio. Longer it takes to crank down, the more weight it's rated for. Drill idea works and is simple to complete. Bolt and a couple nuts tacked to the handle or main gear drive. I went with the main drive on a couple and capped the top so you could see the nuts but the bolts. Down side is the one day you drive a hundred miles and realize someone set the drill out if the truck to make room or the battery is completely dead or that harbor freight drill just wasn't the deal you thought. So forget welding the bolt. Make yourself a wishbone or a u-joint that you can quickly Hook a handle back to. No drill, no problem. Pin the handle back on and your good to go.
From what I can tell from the video, I would make an offset hook that just slid into the current set up. Keep my handles in the truck. If I was picking up mostly cars, I would put a quick hitch on the front of the trailer and mount a winch. Harbor freight has a sale in the 9000 pound winches every month. Build the hitch right and you can swap from the truck to the trailer in under 5 minutes. I have drop hitches front and back and in a couple trailers, takes longer to move it than to hook it up.
I was thinking about making an adapter to slide over the the handle or pinning the handle on so I can remove it easily. I have a 2'' receiver on the front for a winch mount on this trailer and the utility trailer.
you know if you wanted to keep it really simple and not lose the handles, you take a socket and slot it. just slide it over the handle. putting a hitch on the front of my truck has come in handy as much as anything. i have to get into some tight spots with a trailer sometimes, throw a ball on the front and drive the trailer in. cuts way down on the distance need to maneuver. i used 1/4x3x3 angle to make the mount so i can run a light snow plow, tennessee, it pushes more sand than snow. generator rack, cargo rack, wench mount, my favorite is the fishing seat. pull up to or back up to a pond, fish all day and never unload the cooler.
I will be having 2 - 10k jacks in the front and 2 - 5k jacks in the rear of my dump trailer. At first I was going to go with 1 - 10k jack in the front and the square tubing option in the rear. I upgraded to 2 - 10k jacks because I wanted a jack at each corner of the trailer. This video changed my mind because the swivel jacks in the rear allow me to jack up the trailer and provide support so the truck doesn’t lift up.
I have a 12' dump trailer, and I can load a 7000lb tractor in it with out it lifting an F-150. The rear axle on a dump is closer to the rear, than a car or equipment trailer, so lifting the tow rig is not as big of a concern. It still would not be a bad idea to have stabilzers or jacks on the rear. The trailer in the video gets jacked up when it is not in use. I think it extends the life of the tires. I read something about a tire sitting on the ground, lets moisture get into it and causes it to dry rot. I need to make an adapter for my drill to run the jacks up and down fast.
Tractor Tech Absolutely right, store the trailer long term with the wheels off the ground. I do not have anything to load into the dump trailer, but I am interested in a skid steer. I will be using the four jacks to lift the entire trailer up and change tires if I ever have a blowout.
No equipment trailer should be sold without factory-installed rear stabilizer jacks!!!!!! PERIOD!!!!! I have a 15,000 pound flat deck trailer with no factory stabilizer jacks installed. Ridiculous. I was naive when I bought it and had no idea idea the problems that would create for me. Loading a skid steer, excavator or my tractor would literally lift the front of the trailer and rear of my F350 long bed 4+ feet off the ground. Not only did I Sh** my pants when it happened, unbeknown to me, this also put major stress on my truck's trailer hitch bolts. To my surprise, The bolts eventually broke off and dropped my trailer and the 10k pound rented excavator it was carrying on to the ground. Thank God I was still in the parking lot of where I had loaded the excavator. Another 60 seconds and I would've been speeding down a Montana state highway when that happened and probably would've myself or killed else. The equipment would never have survived. I've spent weeks trying to figure out how to install stabilizers on that trailer but because it's a deck-over, it's too high for installing jacks like you did. In fact, a shop tried what you did that today and found out the hard way it wouldn't work because the trailer's too tall for the jacks to reach the ground. i have some other ideas but they're gonna cost money that the manufacturer of the trailer should have paid when they built it. Thanks for the video! You did a great job on your trailer!
Did you source your jacks from like Tractor Supply?'Or, West model? Very neat and works great. I used drill pipe and pins.pull the pin let the pipe slide to the ground. reinsert pin in one of multiple holes. Pipe had the ends welded up
Nice addition for no flat spots. Hadn’t thought of that. I have a 16ft 10k trailer that I load a 6500 lb tractor on and yes, it will lift my Ram 1500’s tire right off the ground (fun!). I’m just wondering about the capacity of the jacks. I’d guess that 1 ton jacks would be okay with the trailer hitched. Any thoughts on how much downward force the vehicle has at the hitch. Typical 1/2 tone PU
2 one ton jacks on the rear would be 4k. You have weight on the ramps and weight on the tires. I also leave the jacks up of the ground so the trailer will sqaut some, actually lower in the rear still lightly unloading the truck so the jacks are taking a great deal of the weight.
I was on the fence about ordering my new trailer with rear jacks. Glad I found this.
I wish I had jacks on the rear of all of my trailers.
I saw a guy off-loading his tractor have that same thing happen. He, his tractor, his trailer and his truck all went scooting down a hillside because of just what you said. Needless to say, it wasn't long, and he installed stabilizer jack stands on the back of his trailer like yours. Thanks for your video good job.
Did he get hurt?
Going to add these to my trailer. Thank you Sir! Be safe and God bless you and your family !!!!
Cool!
Thank you great video. I definitely want that on my trailer now too. Cheers
Your welcome! They are a great addition.
Very well explained been wanting to do to my trailer now can see how going to work thank you for video
I have the side crank swivel version (Curt 28302) welded to my car hauler. What I did was cut the crank handles off and welded on a 13/16 bolt head (same size as my lug nuts). Now I can use an ugga dugga gun on them AND the handles aren't flopping around.
I also welded a deep socket to the cut off handle so I still have that option plus an emergency lug wrench in the toolbox.
I've thought about doing that. I made a socket that fits the jack handles as is but a but would be better. I may just weld a nut to the jack handle. Then I'd still have a jack handle and I could use it with a drill. IDK if I would use and impact. The jack may break from the hammering.
good idea you could also service bearings or change a flat.
I had thought about changing a flat but I had not thought about servicing the bearings or brakes. I'm not sure about picking the trailer up with much of a load on it.
Cool idea! Nice job!
Thanks!!!
i build campers, trailers, and bug out vehicles and have been putting rear mount jacks on for at least 20 years. you would prefer a side crank as opposed to a top crank. you will never have a load get in the way of the side crank.
for the camper and sportsman builds, i now put drop down outriggers for stability with jacks on the front, jacks on four corners for leveling out the trailer.
figured i might as well tell you. i invented a a jack several years ago and showed a person that patented my invention and started the tressle jack co. its all good. every animal in nature steals right?
I thought about the load getting in the way with the top wind jack. I also thought a top wind jack would be faster than a side wide so that is why I went with it. My intent was to make an adapter to run the jack up and down with a battery drill. I hate it when people steal my ideas. I mostly try to keep my ideas to myself. I have not had anything good enough to patent like your idea. That would be very upsetting.
Jack speed differs from company to company due to gear ratio. Longer it takes to crank down, the more weight it's rated for. Drill idea works and is simple to complete. Bolt and a couple nuts tacked to the handle or main gear drive. I went with the main drive on a couple and capped the top so you could see the nuts but the bolts. Down side is the one day you drive a hundred miles and realize someone set the drill out if the truck to make room or the battery is completely dead or that harbor freight drill just wasn't the deal you thought. So forget welding the bolt.
Make yourself a wishbone or a u-joint that you can quickly Hook a handle back to. No drill, no problem. Pin the handle back on and your good to go.
From what I can tell from the video, I would make an offset hook that just slid into the current set up. Keep my handles in the truck. If I was picking up mostly cars, I would put a quick hitch on the front of the trailer and mount a winch. Harbor freight has a sale in the 9000 pound winches every month. Build the hitch right and you can swap from the truck to the trailer in under 5 minutes. I have drop hitches front and back and in a couple trailers, takes longer to move it than to hook it up.
I was thinking about making an adapter to slide over the the handle or pinning the handle on so I can remove it easily. I have a 2'' receiver on the front for a winch mount on this trailer and the utility trailer.
you know if you wanted to keep it really simple and not lose the handles, you take a socket and slot it. just slide it over the handle.
putting a hitch on the front of my truck has come in handy as much as anything. i have to get into some tight spots with a trailer sometimes, throw a ball on the front and drive the trailer in. cuts way down on the distance need to maneuver. i used 1/4x3x3 angle to make the mount so i can run a light snow plow, tennessee, it pushes more sand than snow. generator rack, cargo rack, wench mount, my favorite is the fishing seat. pull up to or back up to a pond, fish all day and never unload the cooler.
Thanks, I was thinking about doing this too and wanted to see how someone else mounted the jacks.
Your welcome!
Great video! Did you weld the Jack stands on or bolt?
You sir are a smart guy. I will add to my trailer
Thanks, I'm glad you liked the idea.
I need to add these two jacks to my 10k trailer.
They are very handy!
I will be having 2 - 10k jacks in the front and 2 - 5k jacks in the rear of my dump trailer. At first I was going to go with 1 - 10k jack in the front and the square tubing option in the rear. I upgraded to 2 - 10k jacks because I wanted a jack at each corner of the trailer. This video changed my mind because the swivel jacks in the rear allow me to jack up the trailer and provide support so the truck doesn’t lift up.
I have a 12' dump trailer, and I can load a 7000lb tractor in it with out it lifting an F-150. The rear axle on a dump is closer to the rear, than a car or equipment trailer, so lifting the tow rig is not as big of a concern. It still would not be a bad idea to have stabilzers or jacks on the rear. The trailer in the video gets jacked up when it is not in use. I think it extends the life of the tires. I read something about a tire sitting on the ground, lets moisture get into it and causes it to dry rot. I need to make an adapter for my drill to run the jacks up and down fast.
Tractor Tech Absolutely right, store the trailer long term with the wheels off the ground. I do not have anything to load into the dump trailer, but I am interested in a skid steer. I will be using the four jacks to lift the entire trailer up and change tires if I ever have a blowout.
@@jsolemi3281 Now something short and heavy like a skid steer could possibly lift the tow vehicle.
Also what is as the Jack weight you used (supporting weight)?
Great tips!
Thanks!
No equipment trailer should be sold without factory-installed rear stabilizer jacks!!!!!! PERIOD!!!!!
I have a 15,000 pound flat deck trailer with no factory stabilizer jacks installed. Ridiculous. I was naive when I bought it and had no idea idea the problems that would create for me.
Loading a skid steer, excavator or my tractor would literally lift the front of the trailer and rear of my F350 long bed 4+ feet off the ground. Not only did I Sh** my pants when it happened, unbeknown to me, this also put major stress on my truck's trailer hitch bolts. To my surprise, The bolts eventually broke off and dropped my trailer and the 10k pound rented excavator it was carrying on to the ground. Thank God I was still in the parking lot of where I had loaded the excavator. Another 60 seconds and I would've been speeding down a Montana state highway when that happened and probably would've myself or killed else. The equipment would never have survived.
I've spent weeks trying to figure out how to install stabilizers on that trailer but because it's a deck-over, it's too high for installing jacks like you did. In fact, a shop tried what you did that today and found out the hard way it wouldn't work because the trailer's too tall for the jacks to reach the ground. i have some other ideas but they're gonna cost money that the manufacturer of the trailer should have paid when they built it.
Thanks for the video! You did a great job on your trailer!
Did you source your jacks from like Tractor Supply?'Or, West model?
Very neat and works great. I used drill pipe and pins.pull the pin let the pipe slide to the ground. reinsert pin in one of multiple holes. Pipe had the ends welded up
Thanks, the jacks are from Harbor Freight. Pipe would work too.
Add a Fastway Flip Automatic Fold-Up Jack Foot to save on all of that cranking.
I"m going to make an adapter for a drill.
Man that's good I am going do this to get tires off ground. Thanks
Your welcome!
Nice addition for no flat spots. Hadn’t thought of that. I have a 16ft 10k trailer that I load a 6500 lb tractor on and yes, it will lift my Ram 1500’s tire right off the ground (fun!). I’m just wondering about the capacity of the jacks. I’d guess that 1 ton jacks would be okay with the trailer hitched. Any thoughts on how much downward force the vehicle has at the hitch. Typical 1/2 tone PU
2 one ton jacks on the rear would be 4k. You have weight on the ramps and weight on the tires. I also leave the jacks up of the ground so the trailer will sqaut some, actually lower in the rear still lightly unloading the truck so the jacks are taking a great deal of the weight.
Great idea but do they block the lights?
No, the lights are on the rear of the trailer.
Hi are they the 10 inches or 15 inches ?
These are the jacks I used.www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb-swing-back-tube-mount-trailer-jack-69782.html
great info, not nearly enough likes!
Thanks!