Honda Rincon high idle fix (stuck/dirty IACV)
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- čas přidán 28. 11. 2019
- Hey guys and gals. Still getting caught up on old footage, so this is one of my quick fix videos for 2006-up Honda Rincon 680s. If you start the bike and your RPMs shoot way up and you can't get the bike into gear, chances are good that your Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) is dirty and/or stuck. Luckily, it's a very quick and easy fix.
Thanks for watching!
Dude ur a life saver I have bin looking for ur video for a two hours man thank u 🙏
Thanks dude ... I went out to plow my driveway in eastern Canada last night with my 680 and it started doing this . I didn't know what the problem was but thanks to your video i do now.
Glad it helped you out man. It's very surprising when it happens if you've never heard it before!
I just want to say thank you. This fixed my 2012 Honda Rancher TRX420FA. I live 80 miles from my dealer and this saved me the cost of the trip, a rental trailer and the high dealer prices. People that take the time to make videos like yours are a god sent. 👍
Thanks for the kind words, Ryan! I sincerely appreciate it, and I'm really glad that the video helped you out!
Perfect solution. Fixed my issues. Thank you!
This fixed my '07 420 Rancher high idle.
Everything was the same except the left side covers needed to come off to remove the initial white shield.
Many thanks.
I saw your comment so I tried it and it worked on my 07 420 Rancher as well. The part was a valve set 16430-HP6-A01. $40ish
Thank you for this video .. ive got a Honda Varadero motorcycle ..and it exactly the same on mine .... You saved my bike ..thank you so much !
That's great! Funny how much most vehicle manufacturers reuse the same parts across their product lines, isn't it? Thanks for watching, I'm really glad this was able to help you out!
@@AllThingsMech lol true ..think they just raid parts bin ..
This appears to be the exact problem I have with my TRX 420. I will need to get the security torx bit and cleaner, but I'm confident this will solve my problem. Thank you for posting this!
Glad to help! I've gotten a lot of feedback over the years from lots of folks with many different models of honda ATV's, motorcycles, side by sides, etc who have said this helped them out. Had I known that this was such a common issue across honda powersports products, I would have tried to reach a broader audience! Anyway, thank you for watching - much appreciated!
@@AllThingsMech Darn! I removed and cleaned the sensor, but I still have the fast idle problem. I really thought this would fix it. This issue came up rather suddenly. It was running fine last weekend. Maybe I just need to replace that part?
@AJBraun-qg8gg well dang, sorry to hear that! It's entirely possible, sometimes the sensors actually do fail. Before ordering a new one, make sure that it can spin freely on the threaded shaft and that everything is lined back up properly when you reinstall it so that it doesn't get stuck in the bore. If that doesn't do the trick then it's possible the sensor itself has died.
@@AllThingsMech Hey, I just wanted to follow up. I went back and watched your video again and noticed the part about lining up the sensor with that nipple down inside the assembly. I took it out, cleaned it again and reinstalled it again, careful to align it correctly. Viola! My engine is idling good again! The rpms sounded like they were fluctuating at first, but it seems like it has leveled out now. Thank you for your help!
Hey guys just commenting to affirm this indeed works… I have a 2016 foreman 500 when I started it, it idled up and down erratically and I cleaned this sensor and immediately it fixed
Great video ! I used some silicone lubricant on this unit and its starts normally.
omggg thank u so much i been looking up what wrong with my atv and i foundd ittttttt now imma fix it
That was awesome video thanks for the help
Great video Bro good fix
Known issue for these. They sometimes have a coating (cosmoline or maybe over oiled air filter). Anyway, nice video.
Why does my trx680fa-rincon bike always stall when starting out? The motorcycle runs normally. What happens is that sometimes/many times after starting the bike, when accelerating, it dies/fails?
Awsome same problem and it fixed it thanku
Will this be the same with low idle. And if you hit the gas sometimes itll die out?!
thnx bro :) from Latvia ;)
Thank you for watching! Latvia is a beautiful country, would love to visit one day!
How the heck do I get the sensor out if the notch somehow misaligned while installed?! I can't pry this thing out!!
Wow at the idle
Good vid
great video. i have a honda rancher trx420fe and took my IACV out and did not pay attention how i took it out. can you tell me if the long slit or short slit grove slides over that little brass pin sticking out. thanks i n advance
Should be the long slit. The IACV is basically just a small electric motor with a threaded shaft, so as it spins it essentially screws into and out of the plastic plunger. The pin in the bore keeps the plunger from spinning along with the shaft as it turns, so it needs the longer slit so it can travel through its full range of motion.
@@AllThingsMech thank you very much. i just installed a brand new IAC Valve and it is still idling too fast and it spits and sputters and little any help would be appreciated
Very useful video. Hey are those tires stock size or what size are they and what brand ?
This particular bike has been out of service for a while now so I'm a little hazy on what I was running on it (it got rotated to one of our seasonal guys last year who promptly fried the transmission, so it went to auction...makes me kinda sad actually, it was a great bike for me). I believe they were Duro Power Grip tires, and they were stock size - 25x8x12 front and 25x10x12 rear. Hope that helps, thanks for watching!
@@AllThingsMech thank you man!!
Any time man!
Could this also cause stall at idle? My 2013 680 rincon periodically stalls when I let off the throttle only time I wish I had a carb I'd just turn the throttle up a bit
It certainly could. Any idle related issue could potentially be caused by a dirty or malfunctioning IACV, so I'd pull it out and have a look.
Could this be my cause my has spark and fuel and it had a new air filter could this be a crank no start?
I've never seen one cause a complete no-start condition but it's certainly possible. It's not exactly a cheap part at around $60, so I'd do a compression test first if you've already verified fuel and spark. If compression is good, make sure the IACV is clean and is getting voltage when you turn the key on.
Thankyou. How can you tell your rpm? And what should it be?
I was only estimating in the video based on experience, there's no tachometer on the display. Normal idle RPM is around 1400 for the Rincon, which isn't adjustable on the 06+ fuel injected models because it's controlled by the ECM. The 03-05 carburated models have an idle adjustment screw located behind the right side panel, just in front of the pull starter.
So I have an 06 rincon 680 and I hit the throttle a little bit and then it sent the throttle all the way forward and the quad just jurked and went flying and rolled a couple times, this happend about an hour ago still trying to figure out what could have happened
Holy crap! First things first, are you ok? I've never heard of a throttle sticking wide open like that, but anything with a throttle cable could have that issue if the cable gets damaged or it starts binding up. I'd start by disconnecting the throttle cable at the handlebars and checking the throttle lever itself to see if it moves freely. If it does, start checking the cable working backwards toward the throttle body to see if the sheath is damaged anywhere along its length. You'd be looking for any kinks/creases, melted areas, or any place where the sheath is worn through enough to expose the cable inside. Basically anything that could cause the cable to bind up and make the throttle stick. Short of that I really don't think there's much on these bikes that can cause the throttle to hang wide open like that. Crazy situation, I really hope you're ok!
Thanks for posting. My 2013 Rancher cranks but will not turn over. I have replaced entire fuel pump system (includes filter), petcock, and new fuel. Would a stuck IACV cause this issue? If so, how to i get it "unstuck"? Should I purchase a new IACV? Thanks again!
Hey Big D, sorry you're having trouble with your rancher. Sucks to have a non running bike! To answer your question about the IACV - typically, no. The IACV is there to help regulate idle speed once the bike is already running, I don't think it can close far enough to completely prevent startup. It usually will either make the bike rev to the moon like mine did, or cause it to start for a couple seconds and then die because there isn't enough intake air to maintain idle. Apologies if the following sounds redundant, but since I'm not there to look it over I need ask. Crank but no start issues typically mean no spark or no fuel. I'd start by pulling off the air filter and spraying a small dose (very small dose!) of ether/starting fluid into the intake, and seeing if it tries to light off. If it does, you have a fuel issue. If it doesn't, probably a spark issue. You can also try to crank it a few times and then pull the spark plug. If it comes out wet with gas, you're getting fuel but have no spark. If it's dry, there's a fuel issue. Spark issue could be as simple as a plug that took a dump on you and needs to be replaced or a bad coil wire/loose connection. Fuel issue could also be electrical - bad ground somewhere or possibly a bad fuel injector relay. Have you confirmed that this is a fuel issue and not a spark problem? That will give me a better idea of which way to go.
@@AllThingsMech Thanks a ton for your input. I pulled the plug and it was a little bit wet with gas. How could I test for spark? Also, I have another bike that is similar in which I could swap out its plug wire/coilpack into the non-starting bike to rule out the coil pack. What to do first? Thanks again!
@@bigdbassn4489 Sure thing. The easiest way I've found to test for spark is to pull the plug out, then reattach the wire to it. Touch the the threads to the side of the block or any other good metal surface to ground it, and then hit your starter button and watch for spark at the tip. No spark means you definitely have an electrical issue. They also make spark testors that go in-line between the plug and the wire, which allows you to leave the plug installed in the head so you know it's properly grounded. They have a clear window covering two metal electrodes that will let you see the spark jump across on its way down to the plug. You can get them at most small engine shops or on Amazon, usually less than $10.
Another thing I forgot to mention is your kill switch on the handlebars. Make sure it's centered in the "run" position and not bumped a little bit to one side or the other - they can sometimes be finicky if they are dirty. Cycle the switch back and forth a couple times to make sure it's not hung up in the off position. All the kill switch does is interrupt the ignition circuit which kills your spark, and it trips a lot of folks up. It's happened to me a couple times too after my kids have used my bike, haha.
@@AllThingsMech Thanks! So I grounded the plug to the engine while connected to the plug wire and I do have spark at the plug. I also slightly wiggled the kill switch while starting. Still cranks but does not turn over. What do you recommend next. And thank you very much for your help here!
@@bigdbassn4489 Happy to help...sucks when a machine is screwed up so I feel your pain. Ok so we have spark, that's good. Next I'd take some starting fluid or brake cleaner/carb cleaner etc and just give it a little sniff down the intake tube, and see if it will fire off for a second. This will confirm that the spark is strong enough to actually ignite the air fuel mix (a weak coil or failing plug may still spark, but won't necessarily be strong enough to create ignition). If it will try to start using whatever you spray in there, then we'll have to loop back around to a fueling issue. Check your wiring connections on the injector. If those seem ok you can pull the injector out, reconnect the plug, and crank the bike over with the injector in your hand (please be careful here - if the injector is working you'll be spraying raw fuel out of it, so please don't light your garage on fire or hurt yourself, lol). You'll be looking for two things - 1, is fuel coming out at all? And 2, what does the spray pattern look like? It should be a very fine mist. If the spray pattern looks inconsistent or if it looks like a stream rather than a mist, then the injector is plugged up and not atomizing the fuel correctly. If there is no fuel coming out at all, make sure your tank valve is set to the on position (if your bike has one). If it is, then your fuel pump relay is probably bad. I'm not sure where they are on your particular bike, but they are usually under the seat near the fuse block.
What if my 2007 Honda rincon starter clicks too much and or sometimes dies out??
Is it just a light clicking noise, or is it more of a loud "thunk" type of sound? If its just lightly clicking, I would check your wiring connections at both the battery and the starter. I've never liked the placement of the battery box on these machines...being in the wheel well they are hard to access and fill up with dust, dirt and debris really easily. If its a louder clunk/thunk sound, its possible that the starter itself is going bad. The sound is caused by the bendix hitting the flywheel, but the electric motor in the starter isn't turning so it won't start the machine. Chase the easy stuff first, hopefully its just a loose cable.
so I have a 2007 Rincon 680 it grinds in reverse fwd. no problem dealer says let it warms up should be fine but it doesn't grind when it is brought to the dealer they also have adjusted the linkage any clue?
Too many variables to diagnose without seeing/hearing it in person. By fwd do you mean with four wheel drive engaged, or did you mean it grinds in both forward and reverse? If it's only doing it in reverse with 4wd engaged, I'd change the front diff oil and make sure there's no abnormal debris in there. Can you tell where the noise is coming from?
What was the issue? I’m having the same issue
Hi! I have problem with my rincorn 680 08 he can't ride faster than 25mph. When is neutral, max rpm is really low. He starts normaly and have a lot of strenght but can't drive faster
Hi Karol. This is a tough issues to diagnose without driving it and hearing the machine run...any number of systems could be the cause of this. Typically most power related issues are traced back to the spark plug, plug wire or ignition coil, but there could also be other things wrong. Unfortunately my best advice would be to see a local mechanic and have them diagnose the machine for you. I'm sorry that I can't be more help, but there are just too many variables for me to solve this without being there in person.
Do you have fix this problem, i have the same problem whit my rincorn 680
Im having a issue with the same four wheeler it runs good but it won’t change gears anyway u know how I could fix it or anything I should check to make sure everything okay on it is okay
Also it goes just stays in first
@@yeyeyeye5799 sorry if this is an obvious question, but have you checked your oil level? These bikes are extremely finicky when it comes to oil - too high or too low, even a little bit, will cause it to hang and not shift properly.
The Ranch Mechanic rn we need to buy oil and we’re doing that tomorrow cause thats what I think is wrong with it but we just got it out of the shop and has no oil in it and only ran it once to see if it was still messed up but even when we had oil in it still had the same problems
Can you use. WD40 to clean the dirt off the sensor. ??
I personally wouldn't. WD40 leaves a pretty oily residue, and that sensor needs to be clean and dry to function properly.
What about on a 2002 Honda recon es I have put all new carb on
Still reving super high
Not much experience with the recons, but typically high idle issues with carb'd machines are one of three things:
1. Jets not adjusted properly or not sized correctly for the engine.
2. Throttle linkage not installed correctly at the carb, or the cable is kinked.
3. Vacuum leak somewhere.
Did you install the new carb because of the high idle problem, or did it start once you put the new one on? #1 isn't likely since the carb is new, provided you bought the correct one for your machine. If it started as soon as you put the new carb on, my guess would be #2. Go back and check your cables and linkage so make sure its all set up properly. If neither of those are the problem, get a can of starting fluid and spray around the intake to see if you get an increase in revs. If so, you have a bad gasket or other damage somewhere causing a vacuum leak.
I bought a new carb cause the other one was a Chinese one figured it was time for a new one I have not hooked up the throttle cable or choke yet I can still start it since I put the new carb on it revs way higher than before I put the new one on
The throttle cable is a pain to get right
i have the same exact atv but i cant find the iacv its not there
What year is your machine? Fuel injection began in 2005 for these bikes, so if you have a 2003 or 2004 Rincon you will not have an IACV. You still have a carbureted fuel system.
@@AllThingsMech its a 2003 honda rincon 650
I have a big problem getting it in gear. I'm desperate to find a solution so I tried this. I didn't know what the idle would sound like. After following your instructions now I do have a high idle. How does this work and what do I have to do to get it back to normal?
So your idle was normal, and after cleaning the sensor now it's higher? Sounds like you reinstalled the sensor incorrectly or damaged it during cleaning. Is this a Rincon, or another machine?
@@AllThingsMech 680 rincon. I probably buggered it up. I'll take it out check it over but I'm thinking a new one is needed. I'll let you know.
It's possible, luckily the IACV isn't terribly expensive. Tell me about the issue going into gear though. Is it physically hard to move the lever like something in the linkage and/or transmission is binding, or does it slide into Fwd/N/Rev easily but nothing happens?
@@AllThingsMech the gears move freely. To use reverse I shut off machine, put it in reverse, hold the right rear brake turn on and start bike. It is now in reverse and throttle up
@@TheSaskachewan1 will it move under its own power once you get it into gear, or does it just rev up without moving?
Edit: also, were there any events leading up to this that may have caused damage (deep mud/water, hard impact from a rock or jumping the machine, etc), or did it just all of a sudden start out of nowhere?
What's your idle rpm at
Normal idle on the fuel injected models is somewhere between 1200-1400rpm if memory serves.
Does yamaha have that too
We don't run any Yamaha machines here so I'm not too familiar with them, but any fuel injected machine will need some way to measure and adjust the air/fuel ratio so I would imagine they use a similar setup. Most of the yamaha machines I've seen, even the newer ones, still have carbs though. What machine do you have? I can look it up and let you know.
I changed mind an it still idle high. Can you help me
Good morning John. What year is your machine? There aren't too many things on these bikes that can affect the idle...did you clean out the bore of the throttle body before you installed the new sensor, and is everything hooked up correctly? Sounds like there may still be some shmoo down in there that's blocking airflow a little.
Yes I changed my idle sensor an it still idle high
I understand you changed the sensor. I need you to answer these questions for me though:
1. What model year is the machine?
2. Did you clean out the hole it the sensor goes down into? There could be dirt and debris down in the hole that is affecting it.
3. Is the new sensor aligned properly so that it can move up and down freely? There is a slot in the side of the sensor that is supposed to align with a small pin sticking out of the side of the bore. It has to be lined up properly.
4. Check the wiring going from the computer to the sensor. A pinched or severed wire will keep the sensor from communicating with the ECM and it will act like the sensor isn't there (high idle will remain). With the key on and engine off, check for voltage at the plug using a multimeter.
If you have checked all of those items, you may need to pull off your throttle body and inspect it/clean it. If you aren't comfortable with that I'd recommend bringing the bike into a reputable shop.
From the beginning. It would not idle at all. So I changed the idle sensor. When I checked it was broke off inside. So I pick up another. Got the piece out clean everything out. Than I put the new one in it been idling high since. Can you help
It is a 2007
How can I get some help from you
If you have a question go ahead and ask here in the comments. I'll do my best to help out.
@@AllThingsMech i test me injector its good but not working on the bike when put on and direct wire from the to the injector it start and cut off
It seems the full current not sending to the injector
@@shawnpaul7042 what's the year/make/model of the bike you're working on?
@@AllThingsMech 2016 Honda trx500fm6
2000 model 400 yamaha kodiak
That machine has a carb. A parts breakdown of the intake system can be found here:
www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/atv/2000/kodiak-4wd-yfm400fam/intake
What symptoms are you experiencing? With a bike that old, you may just want to pull the carb off and give it a once over. Built up junk or a clogged jet could cause a bunch of issues.