Just came across your videos and the last time I was interested in building my own virtual pinball machine I got super excited but then got discouraged due to the limited info on how to actually build one. You explain everything so perfectly and I am now going to begin my build using your instructions. Thank you for making these videos.
This is the first video o yours I have watched, just found you today. I can already tell you I will be watching all your build videos based on your easy to follow explanations but more importantly because what I see is what most people end up with. I mean this is the absolute most complimentary way possible, your wiring is 'typical', I get so intimidated seeing all these build with perfectly run wiring. Thats not what mine is gonna look like so I just give up. I NEED to see this so I know its possible at my skill level!
Haha hey Jason bud super glad to hear your statement! Glad I can help any way I can and happy the tutorial is at least understandable. I did it in a way I wished someone explained like I did because some of the basic wiring stuff I didn't understand. I know I repeat myself alone but I figured Info will stick to peoples mind when they hear it a few times lol
Love your video’s your simplified and clear explanations have made me start my own build with way more confidence. You say your wiring is messy but it clearly shows everything and is easy to follow
Awsome man appreciate it! I got a lot of vpin vids coming in the next 2 weeks cause I duplicated my build for a customer. You'll see much cleaner wiring in those vids haha 👍 thanks bud glad I could help in some way
I've built two virtual machines using the Sainsmart relay boards - with three boards failing in the first year of use. They use mechanical (metal contact) relays that bend and break over time. The failed relays were connected to flippers. So I replaced the Sainsmart's with MOSFET drivers. In cab #1 used four "RGB W LED Amplifiers" - they work great and have had zero failures. In cab #2 used a ZEB's 24 output MOSFET driver board - and that has been working great as well. While both solutions work great, I recommend ZEB's because it's an all in one solution which saves hours of wiring compared to the RGB amps, and the instructions are complete and easy for anyone to follow. IMPORTANT NOTICE: Do not use the 12v 7AMP power supply pictured in the video as it doesn't have the current capacity for MOSFET's, and will crowbar. You'll need a 10 AMP minimum - I went with 12V 30A supply since it's driving all the toys and under cabinet LED's in both cab's.
Weird, I've done 5 pins and currently building 3 with the same stuff in this video. Maybe link to power supply is bad, but yes I get the highest amps available, 30 Amps on the 12v js usually highest found. Never had a sainsmart fail and I play my personal Simpsons pinball in this video daily for 2 hours. Maybe u didn't have diodes on your flippers? As far as the other boards, yes there gold but expensive... my route and videos show the cheapest way with yes more wiring 👍
@@Vic_VP The suppression diodes were installed correctly, and that part of the wiring has been used on the new MOSFET installs - with zero failures. While the Zeb's boards might seem a bit expensive - the other MOSFET option - using "RGB W LED Amplifiers" cost as much Zeb's. The four channel amp's are $12 each on Amazon and I use 5 of them - 4 for solenoids and toys, and one for undercab leds. In addition you'll need a ledwiz or klz25 - around $50. Plus about $15 to $20 worth of wire to put it together, with about 4 to 8 hours of labor -depending on any miswires you need to troubleshoot. After swapping out the Sainsmart with RGB W amps in the first cab, decided that $100 for Zeb's "DIY 24 channel power output board" was a no brainer for my second cab. Bottom line - the $ cost implementing any of the three solutions, Sainsmart, RGB W amps, or Zeb's DIY 24 channel board" are pretty much the same. But the difference in labor time spent is significant.
Thanks bud, I had the same confusion which is why I made the Video lol. All the wires can be overwhelming but once you get the concept it's pretty straight forward 👍
Amazing tutorial!!! You've opened up the hobby to so many people. I'm a teacher bringing pinball into my classroom and currently building a vpin in my class. The kids will be building their own versions, after they play pinball for the first time. Question for you, what fuse rating do you use for your LEDwiz, and, if possible, could you screen shot your dof settings? I'm trying to wire mine like yours and want to get all of the strobes and flashers set up correctly.
Send me an email I can send you my dof screenshot. Fuses are 500ma, 250v I'm building 3 pins currently and will be doing a newer cleaner how to video 👍
Great video series on your virtual pinball build, it has really helped me. In this wiring video you mentioned the software that you used to configure the LEDWiz. Do you have a video that explains how you programmed the LEDWiz and the other controllers or a list of the software used for each controller? Thanks again.
@@Vic_VPI had to reassemble all the wires from scratch because I couldn't figure out what the issue was but I followed your video step by step and it worked to perfection this time.
This video is the stuff I was always scared to do. But i see now it's not one big scary difficult thing. It's lmost like 3 or 4 fairly simple things. I alos realize when Imake a cab I'll have to legit make like ... a manual for it. Just to keep track of all the wiring for troubleshooting etc.
Yea it's really not that difficult, definitely tome consuming and patience is needed But In all my builds I use terminal blocks and label each terminal for neatness and organization
Honestly I don't see much use for it... I haven't done much research but I just see it as a easy it and play setup... but your paying for convenience. My way is the cheapest way, at least that's how I researched it
I have just strobes, flashers, beacons, and rgb led string lights mostly based on your video. However they all work just fine without the sainsmart. I do have fuses on the led lights just in case but verified they’re nowhere close to hitting 0.5 amps on the LEDWiz channels. With that said, what is the purpose of using the sainsmart? Or is that more applicable if using 24v devices?
Hey Vic, following closely along your journey. Awesome stuff bro, thanks for sharing all this insight! Did you find any of the solenoids, relays or anything else (besides the wiring and terminals) pertinent to this installation at Micro Center? I’d like to run over to my local store and pick up whatever I can rather than order online and wait. Thanks!!
You mentioned that you used speaker wire to jump the ax power? That can go bad lol. You should use 12 gage non stranded Everything else. I thank you for. I just got the same setup with a led wiz and Sansmart :). So you helped allot.
This was such a great video. I bought a generic virtual pinball cabinet a few years ago with no bells and whistles. Have been planning on adding solenoids, LED Matrix, siderail LED addressable and maybe even a shaker motor. This video will help me because I'm no electrical guru at all. Have a couple 8 channel sainsmarts I bought as well. Thanks so much. What gauge wire do you use?
Hey vic any reason why you shouldnt run the 5v and 12v direct from the PC PSU other than wattage useage , what is the recomended wattage for the whole systems leds flashers and strobes. or you just use a deadicated PSUs to avoid any wattage overlaod
Hey Sharkey what's up! Yea I never use power from the psu of the pc, wattage usage and also risk in case wires get crossed... I rather fry a 20$ Amazon psu than a pc power supply. I'm building 3 pins right now 24v for solenoids 12v for leds, strobes, flashers, beacons and other toys like shaker motor or fans 5v for arcade leds and now they have thkse addressable leds with matrix that either are 5v or 12v When buying power supplies I look for the most amps... so 60amps, 30amps, 20 amps. More amps means it cab handle more toys at once 🤘
@SHAR-KADE Yes and also incase a customer has to swap out a bad powersupply jts much easier going good man I post more on the fb group 🤘 you too man ur busy! I'll probably be reaching out to u and Brad soon cause I got a 4 play rail shooter coming up after these 3 vpins I'm building 🤘
Negative, on the boards for some reason ground is a negative. Currently my setuo is running flawlessly:) I tried the way u said but the boards won't power up
You might want to check out the pinscape software... it does have option for outputs to toys... but it looked complicated. I believe my setup is the easiest way
Vic - did you ever add a shaker to your cabinet. If so how would you connect it to the sainsmart and ledwiz? How would you handle if there is too much shaking from the shaker?
Yes I did check my recent vids of Jared's pin. Shaker is 12v. Also you'll need a board to control how many volts goes to the shaker I used this RioRand RR-PWM-15V Low Voltage Dc... www.amazon.com/dp/B00N30UK2M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
@@Vic_VP Thanks Vic. I did see that video. Great looking cab. Can you please help me understand the wiring of that speed controller board? As far as the shaker hook up, this is what I understand: 1. 5v negative goes into the GND on the LEDWiz 2. 12v + Power Supply to 12v + of Sainsmart 3. 12v - Power Supply to 12v - of Sainsmart 4. In1 on Sainsmart to Port 1 on LEDWiz (with inline fuse) 5. 12v + Power supply to Sainsmart Relay 1 COM input 6. Shaker - to Sainsmart Relay 1 NO input (with diode between + and -) 7. Shaker + to 12v Power Supply negative Does this sound about right? How would I go about connecting the speed controller to this? Thanks.
1-3 yes. 4 be sure your utilizing the bottom pins on sainsmart for this. 5. Sainsmart has 3 little circles On one output. 12v + goes into the middle. The top and bottom are NC OR NO normally closed or normally open. 6. No wrong - shaker + to NC 7. No wrong - 12v neg to shaker neg. The board goes between you shaker and sainsmart. Board has a +- in and a +- out. So you just put the board in between. Sainsmart 12+ to board + to shaker +. Power supply 12v- to board - to shaker -
@@Vic_VP Thanks Vic. Really appreciate the help. Got an email I can talk to you through? I have a diagram that I put together for adding the speed controller that I want to send to confirm. To me a picture is worth a thousand words.
I am currently in the process of building my vpin cabinet and wiring/placing everything inside is next. I see you mounted the flipper solenoids by the flipper buttons... would you recommend that location if you were to build another, or would you mount them under the screen/playfield where the actual flippers appear to be? I have a support beam going across under where the flippers/bumpers are on the playfield that I was planning to mount the flipper solenoids in front fairly close, and 2 bumper solenoids on the backside of the beam on opposite ends.
Hey bud! I highly suggest mounting it like I have it ... you really feel the thump in your hands. Mounting it on a cross beam like my bumpers is fine also, but you won't really feel the power in the solenoid. It's like a flick vs a knock. I rather feel the knock like a real pin would feel
You mentioned that if you had to do it again, you’d put the pc up front. As I’m starting to lay everything out, what do you think about the boards (sainsmart, LEDwiz, KL25Z) as well as the power supplies in terms of where you placed them? What about the speaker amps? Thanks again man.
Check my recent vid of the gameplay... in the beginning you can hear the fans of the power supplies as im talking. And in the middle of the vid i point out about the sound the sainsmart board makes. I would suggest power supplies jn the rear and the sainsmart board in the rear. You will still hear the fans and sainsmart, but i figured in the rear it wouldn't be as loud as I currently hear it. The klz should be in the front of the cabinet as per the instructions... the nudge is much better read with it in the front... but i bumped up the sensitivity in vpx so im ok now
Speaker amps I put them in the backbox so I can access them. You will want to put them in a place thats easy to access for adjusting. I would replace my locating by placing it in the front opposite from my logitech speaker controller to avoid confusion lol
Hey Vic, thanks for the video. Can you tell me what gauge wire I need to use to connect everything? Can I use the same gauge for all electrical components? Thanks
Not appreciating too much right now the combination of ssf and contactors working together. Don't hear or feel much of the contactors with the flippers bumpers or slingshots when ssf is on. Wondering if maybe going to the tables sound file and taking off the slingshots fx and flipper fx. This way I can appreciate the contactors and at same time enjoying the ssf effects on the rest of the table. I don't know maybe lowering the ssf volume what do you suggest?
Go to ledtest software and just trigger the solenoids... what solenoids did you get? Solenoids give the thump... they don't give the sound effect really. Ssf gives the sound
@@Vic_VP yes I did the LED test and they do work. Maybe the solenoids are not strong enough I don't hear major thumps. Got Siemens 3rt1016 for about 13 bucks each on eBay
1bb41 or the last word digits remember the same one that you have. The power is all the way up as a matter of fact it is the same power supply that I have my knocker connected to. They are working maybe not as loud as it should?
@@juanperez772 your first numbers are not the same as mine. Your last numbers yes... but not the first. 13$ per solenoid doesn't sound right as currently my number on ebay is like 45$ per solenoid
Depends what you want. Most toys on Amazon and powersupplies. Ledwiz is on a separate site. Ebay for solenoids. Klz, plunger and Pinball legs from other specific sites. On my first video in the series I put a list of websites and links to buy stuff. Go check first video description
@@Vic_VP Your vid really gave me the confidence to finally build a pinball with some lights and toys. Ordered some gears like yours and looking forward to the build journey. Hopefully, logistics get them here without too many delays :) lots to learn still so will be reading more yet
Not to be the devil's advocate but the fuses are not in the right places. You see, the Sainsmart board are run by opto couplers. The LEDWiz is sending signals to them telling them to activate the contact relays. There is no way there would be any back feed of any kind, risking any damage to your Wiz. They would be better used AFTER the relay contacts cause now, since the power are daisy chained, should one item go bonkers, there are more chances of having problems than in between the Sainsmart and the Wiz. Other than that, very nice setup. ☺
As stated, I followed Mr Frenchy. What hour suggesting I believe js the diode / resistor which I have on all my toys. The fuse from my understanding is in case the 24v,12v touches the signal area and then send that voltage to your ledwiz and thus to ur pc usb and poof done 👍
Hey there…I’ve spoke to you before and like your tutorials. Just have a couple questions. 1) with the three prong outlet, how do you know what colour wire is positive, neutral and ground, to then connect to power supply? 2) when linking (daisy chain) all power supplies to one another, is it just to power them up? I ask, because I thought I followed your video properly, however I still ended up smoking my wires. I also had terminal blocks connected ad wondered if that was the cause. Please can you help? Thank you in advance 👍🏾
Hey bud. 1. Green is ground, white is neutral, black is live. Your power supply have 3 things on the left or right side (L,N, and a upside down triangle symbol) L is black wire, N is white wire, triangle is green. 2. Yes instead of having 3 plugs into a power strip.. I only need 1 plug. Be sure to use the correct gauge.. I cut up an old extension cord Not sure what you would have terminal block connected to
@@Vic_VP to be honest, I believe I'm going to remove the terminal blocks. I used them to connect the solenoids. But the more I watch your video, I don't need them. Then, I'm trying to understand the fuse connectors and the purpose of them. Because before having solenoids, I didn't need those and then watching your video, it's recommended. As I mentioned, I don't know how I smoked my cabinet, but I did and afraid to touch it.
@@Vic_VP no I didn't. Hard to explain. Would have to send you photo. Solenoids are fine...I believe I've messaged you on messenger, I'll reach out to you there. A lot easier
Just got the contactors connected to sainsmart. The knocker and gear motor are working but I can't get the contactors to work. The sain smart clicks with a red light every time I push the flipper or hit say slingshot etc but that is it. When I check the contactors directly with a 24 volt power supply they click. any thoughts on what it could be?
@@juanperez772 Def if you have the red light in the board then it's gotta b a wiring issue with the solenoid. Do you have the ground of 24v going to the solenoids
I’m doing mine just like yours this week! Thank you for the video! What model number are you using for your contractors? I was hoping I bought the same model as you so I don’t run into problems. Thanks again! Keep up the great work!
Check my other vid czcams.com/video/rWD2DqpdYRU/video.html The contactor I used have jacked up in price and I can't seem to find any on ebay for even close to what I paid for :/
I watched your pinball build videos and you mentioned, the playfield is 49 inches, if that is the case, what is the actual width and length of your playfield cabinet?
My playfield is a 50 inches I followed the same plans as a bally wide body Only change is the width which on my pin is 25.5 Everything else is the same as the plans for a bally widened which you can find on google
@@Vic_VP Thanks for your reply, I was really giving you a hard time, as I saw "LED WIZ" all over the video. Thanks for posting your build, you have done a good job.
The sainsmart board controls all my toys... my toys have different voltages... the ledwiz cannot handle over 5v... so you will need both I have a 16chabbel sainsmart and 32 channel led wiz 1 led wiz definitly is enough. My 16channel sainsmart is perfect amount of ports... but if you want a lot of toys (I'm missing blower fan and bells and knocker) then u may need another sainsmart board
@@cattalov yes my setup is compatible with dof... the sainsmart allows you to use any voltage PER toy/input. So I have a few 24v toys, a few 12v toys on my sainsmart.
That makes sense. One last thing for you I'd love how you Daisy chained the power supplies. I can't clearly see through your video how you did that. Can you briefly describe the connections?
Just came across your videos and the last time I was interested in building my own virtual pinball machine I got super excited but then got discouraged due to the limited info on how to actually build one. You explain everything so perfectly and I am now going to begin my build using your instructions. Thank you for making these videos.
Awesome bro, I'm working on another one so Def more vids to come!
This is the first video o yours I have watched, just found you today. I can already tell you I will be watching all your build videos based on your easy to follow explanations but more importantly because what I see is what most people end up with. I mean this is the absolute most complimentary way possible, your wiring is 'typical', I get so intimidated seeing all these build with perfectly run wiring. Thats not what mine is gonna look like so I just give up. I NEED to see this so I know its possible at my skill level!
Haha hey Jason bud super glad to hear your statement! Glad I can help any way I can and happy the tutorial is at least understandable. I did it in a way I wished someone explained like I did because some of the basic wiring stuff I didn't understand.
I know I repeat myself alone but I figured Info will stick to peoples mind when they hear it a few times lol
Love your video’s your simplified and clear explanations have made me start my own build with way more confidence. You say your wiring is messy but it clearly shows everything and is easy to follow
Awsome man appreciate it! I got a lot of vpin vids coming in the next 2 weeks cause I duplicated my build for a customer. You'll see much cleaner wiring in those vids haha 👍 thanks bud glad I could help in some way
I've built two virtual machines using the Sainsmart relay boards - with three boards failing in the first year of use. They use mechanical (metal contact) relays that bend and break over time. The failed relays were connected to flippers. So I replaced the Sainsmart's with MOSFET drivers.
In cab #1 used four "RGB W LED Amplifiers" - they work great and have had zero failures.
In cab #2 used a ZEB's 24 output MOSFET driver board - and that has been working great as well.
While both solutions work great, I recommend ZEB's because it's an all in one solution which saves hours of wiring compared to the RGB amps, and the instructions are complete and easy for anyone to follow.
IMPORTANT NOTICE: Do not use the 12v 7AMP power supply pictured in the video as it doesn't have the current capacity for MOSFET's, and will crowbar. You'll need a 10 AMP minimum - I went with 12V 30A supply since it's driving all the toys and under cabinet LED's in both cab's.
Weird, I've done 5 pins and currently building 3 with the same stuff in this video. Maybe link to power supply is bad, but yes I get the highest amps available, 30 Amps on the 12v js usually highest found.
Never had a sainsmart fail and I play my personal Simpsons pinball in this video daily for 2 hours.
Maybe u didn't have diodes on your flippers?
As far as the other boards, yes there gold but expensive... my route and videos show the cheapest way with yes more wiring 👍
@@Vic_VP The suppression diodes were installed correctly, and that part of the wiring has been used on the new MOSFET installs - with zero failures. While the Zeb's boards might seem a bit expensive - the other MOSFET option - using "RGB W LED Amplifiers" cost as much Zeb's. The four channel amp's are $12 each on Amazon and I use 5 of them - 4 for solenoids and toys, and one for undercab leds. In addition you'll need a ledwiz or klz25 - around $50. Plus about $15 to $20 worth of wire to put it together, with about 4 to 8 hours of labor -depending on any miswires you need to troubleshoot. After swapping out the Sainsmart with RGB W amps in the first cab, decided that $100 for Zeb's "DIY 24 channel power output board" was a no brainer for my second cab.
Bottom line - the $ cost implementing any of the three solutions, Sainsmart, RGB W amps, or Zeb's DIY 24 channel board" are pretty much the same. But the difference in labor time spent is significant.
Wow! Great tutorial! Everything makes sense to me now.
Thanks bud, I had the same confusion which is why I made the
Video lol. All the wires can be overwhelming but once you get the concept it's pretty straight forward 👍
Omg you give a tutorial in electrik things talking about positive, negative and ground comming out of the wall😂👍
Can you post a link for each piece of hardware in this video? Would be a huge help
Amazing tutorial!!! You've opened up the hobby to so many people. I'm a teacher bringing pinball into my classroom and currently building a vpin in my class. The kids will be building their own versions, after they play pinball for the first time. Question for you, what fuse rating do you use for your LEDwiz, and, if possible, could you screen shot your dof settings? I'm trying to wire mine like yours and want to get all of the strobes and flashers set up correctly.
Send me an email I can send you my dof screenshot.
Fuses are 500ma, 250v
I'm building 3 pins currently and will be doing a newer cleaner how to video 👍
@@Vic_VP That sounds amazing. I've sent a form in through your website, with my email. My students are going to love this project!
Great video series on your virtual pinball build, it has really helped me. In this wiring video you mentioned the software that you used to configure the LEDWiz. Do you have a video that explains how you programmed the LEDWiz and the other controllers or a list of the software used for each controller? Thanks again.
Ledwiz gets programmed from the dof config site
configtool.vpuniverse.com/login.php
Got it to work. Thank you for all your help
Whats was the issue?
@@Vic_VPI had to reassemble all the wires from scratch because I couldn't figure out what the issue was but I followed your video step by step and it worked to perfection this time.
This video is the stuff I was always scared to do. But i see now it's not one big scary difficult thing. It's lmost like 3 or 4 fairly simple things. I alos realize when Imake a cab I'll have to legit make like ... a manual for it. Just to keep track of all the wiring for troubleshooting etc.
Yea it's really not that difficult, definitely tome consuming and patience is needed
But In all my builds I use terminal blocks and label each terminal for neatness and organization
Thanks mate. A little dark, but very informative. Bookmarked and subscribed!
I just found you today too!! Great videos
I wish you had the pinscape board. Very good video on the how
Honestly I don't see much use for it... I haven't done much research but I just see it as a easy it and play setup... but your paying for convenience.
My way is the cheapest way, at least that's how I researched it
Thanks. What amp fuse do you use between the ledwiz and the sain smart?
I have just strobes, flashers, beacons, and rgb led string lights mostly based on your video. However they all work just fine without the sainsmart. I do have fuses on the led lights just in case but verified they’re nowhere close to hitting 0.5 amps on the LEDWiz channels. With that said, what is the purpose of using the sainsmart? Or is that more applicable if using 24v devices?
More compatible with 24v, UT are you running 12v to your toys that you mentioned?
Hey Vic, following closely along your journey. Awesome stuff bro, thanks for sharing all this insight! Did you find any of the solenoids, relays or anything else (besides the wiring and terminals) pertinent to this installation at Micro Center? I’d like to run over to my local store and pick up whatever I can rather than order online and wait. Thanks!!
Hey bud, you can't find anything in micro center for this stuff
I only got the arduino wires from micro center
You mentioned that you used speaker wire to jump the ax power? That can go bad lol. You should use 12 gage non stranded
Everything else. I thank you for. I just got the same setup with a led wiz and Sansmart :). So you helped allot.
Although if it’s low Amps pulled. 14 gage is fine too
This was such a great video. I bought a generic virtual pinball cabinet a few years ago with no bells and whistles. Have been planning on adding solenoids, LED Matrix, siderail LED addressable and maybe even a shaker motor. This video will help me because I'm no electrical guru at all. Have a couple 8 channel sainsmarts I bought as well. Thanks so much. What gauge wire do you use?
Awsome dude! 18 gauge I used
18/4 is pretty standard
Hey vic any reason why you shouldnt run the 5v and 12v direct from the PC PSU other than wattage useage , what is the recomended wattage for the whole systems leds flashers and strobes. or you just use a deadicated PSUs to avoid any wattage overlaod
Hey Sharkey what's up! Yea I never use power from the psu of the pc, wattage usage and also risk in case wires get crossed... I rather fry a 20$ Amazon psu than a pc power supply.
I'm building 3 pins right now
24v for solenoids
12v for leds, strobes, flashers, beacons and other toys like shaker motor or fans
5v for arcade leds and now they have thkse addressable leds with matrix that either are 5v or 12v
When buying power supplies I look for the most amps... so 60amps, 30amps, 20 amps. More amps means it cab handle more toys at once 🤘
@@Vic_VP yer thought as much, cant go wrong running dedicated PSU, how is buisness I see a lot of vids up man ,
@SHAR-KADE
Yes and also incase a customer has to swap out a bad powersupply jts much easier
going good man I post more on the fb group 🤘 you too man ur busy! I'll probably be reaching out to u and Brad soon cause I got a 4 play rail shooter coming up after these 3 vpins I'm building 🤘
Shouldn't ground connections go to ground connections and not to negative connections?
Negative, on the boards for some reason ground is a negative. Currently my setuo is running flawlessly:)
I tried the way u said but the boards won't power up
Can the kl25z not handle output signals to the sainsmart as well? Do I need the ledwiz even?
You might want to check out the pinscape software... it does have option for outputs to toys... but it looked complicated. I believe my setup is the easiest way
Vic - did you ever add a shaker to your cabinet. If so how would you connect it to the sainsmart and ledwiz? How would you handle if there is too much shaking from the shaker?
Yes I did check my recent vids of Jared's pin. Shaker is 12v.
Also you'll need a board to control how many volts goes to the shaker
I used this
RioRand RR-PWM-15V Low Voltage Dc... www.amazon.com/dp/B00N30UK2M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
@@Vic_VP Thanks Vic. I did see that video. Great looking cab. Can you please help me understand the wiring of that speed controller board? As far as the shaker hook up, this is what I understand:
1. 5v negative goes into the GND on the LEDWiz
2. 12v + Power Supply to 12v + of Sainsmart
3. 12v - Power Supply to 12v - of Sainsmart
4. In1 on Sainsmart to Port 1 on LEDWiz (with inline fuse)
5. 12v + Power supply to Sainsmart Relay 1 COM input
6. Shaker - to Sainsmart Relay 1 NO input (with diode between + and -)
7. Shaker + to 12v Power Supply negative
Does this sound about right? How would I go about connecting the speed controller to this? Thanks.
1-3 yes. 4 be sure your utilizing the bottom pins on sainsmart for this.
5. Sainsmart has 3 little circles On one output. 12v + goes into the middle. The top and bottom are NC OR NO normally closed or normally open.
6. No wrong - shaker + to NC
7. No wrong - 12v neg to shaker neg.
The board goes between you shaker and sainsmart.
Board has a +- in and a +- out.
So you just put the board in between. Sainsmart 12+ to board + to shaker +. Power supply 12v- to board - to shaker -
@@Vic_VP Thanks Vic. Really appreciate the help. Got an email I can talk to you through? I have a diagram that I put together for adding the speed controller that I want to send to confirm. To me a picture is worth a thousand words.
Dm on insta its faster @vic_vp
I am currently in the process of building my vpin cabinet and wiring/placing everything inside is next. I see you mounted the flipper solenoids by the flipper buttons... would you recommend that location if you were to build another, or would you mount them under the screen/playfield where the actual flippers appear to be? I have a support beam going across under where the flippers/bumpers are on the playfield that I was planning to mount the flipper solenoids in front fairly close, and 2 bumper solenoids on the backside of the beam on opposite ends.
Hey bud! I highly suggest mounting it like I have it ... you really feel the thump in your hands.
Mounting it on a cross beam like my bumpers is fine also, but you won't really feel the power in the solenoid. It's like a flick vs a knock. I rather feel the knock like a real pin would feel
@@Vic_VP Thanks, I was wondering how much of a difference that would make... I've seen it done both ways.
@@obsidian1710 you can always trial and error it. But to me it's a must to go on the side wall. That plus SSF is a amazing feeling
You mentioned that if you had to do it again, you’d put the pc up front. As I’m starting to lay everything out, what do you think about the boards (sainsmart, LEDwiz, KL25Z) as well as the power supplies in terms of where you placed them? What about the speaker amps? Thanks again man.
Check my recent vid of the gameplay... in the beginning you can hear the fans of the power supplies as im talking.
And in the middle of the vid i point out about the sound the sainsmart board makes.
I would suggest power supplies jn the rear and the sainsmart board in the rear. You will still hear the fans and sainsmart, but i figured in the rear it wouldn't be as loud as I currently hear it.
The klz should be in the front of the cabinet as per the instructions... the nudge is much better read with it in the front... but i bumped up the sensitivity in vpx so im ok now
Speaker amps I put them in the backbox so I can access them. You will want to put them in a place thats easy to access for adjusting. I would replace my locating by placing it in the front opposite from my logitech speaker controller to avoid confusion lol
Hey Vic, thanks for the video. Can you tell me what gauge wire I need to use to connect everything? Can I use the same gauge for all electrical components? Thanks
Wiring with 120v (like the extension cord wiring will need 16gage)
Everything else I used 18 garage wiring
@@Vic_VP thanks!
Not appreciating too much right now the combination of ssf and contactors working together. Don't hear or feel much of the contactors with the flippers bumpers or slingshots when ssf is on. Wondering if maybe going to the tables sound file and taking off the slingshots fx and flipper fx. This way I can appreciate the contactors and at same time enjoying the ssf effects on the rest of the table. I don't know maybe lowering the ssf volume what do you suggest?
Go to ledtest software and just trigger the solenoids... what solenoids did you get?
Solenoids give the thump... they don't give the sound effect really. Ssf gives the sound
@@Vic_VP yes I did the LED test and they do work. Maybe the solenoids are not strong enough I don't hear major thumps. Got Siemens 3rt1016 for about 13 bucks each on eBay
What's the full number? Is it the one i have? On the power supply is a little round knob , make sure it's all the way up.
1bb41 or the last word digits remember the same one that you have. The power is all the way up as a matter of fact it is the same power supply that I have my knocker connected to. They are working maybe not as loud as it should?
@@juanperez772 your first numbers are not the same as mine. Your last numbers yes... but not the first. 13$ per solenoid doesn't sound right as currently my number on ebay is like 45$ per solenoid
What size inline fuses (amps?) did you use for led wiz connections? Thanks!
100 QT 500mA 250V FUSES F500mA AL250V 0.5 Amp Fast-Blow FUSE 5mm x 20mm
Im in the process of buying all the stuff to build my own virtual pinball cabinet is there a specific website where I can purchase most of this stuff?
Depends what you want. Most toys on Amazon and powersupplies.
Ledwiz is on a separate site. Ebay for solenoids. Klz, plunger and Pinball legs from other specific sites.
On my first video in the series I put a list of websites and links to buy stuff. Go check first video description
@@Vic_VP Thanks for the reply it's much appreciated
How many AMPS from your 12V power supply. Have no idea if I need 1A or 50A power supply
Depends how many toys you plan to drive. The higher the better obviously :)
@@Vic_VP Your vid really gave me the confidence to finally build a pinball with some lights and toys. Ordered some gears like yours and looking forward to the build journey. Hopefully, logistics get them here without too many delays :) lots to learn still so will be reading more yet
@@adampethig awesome you got this, if I can do it you Def can
Not to be the devil's advocate but the fuses are not in the right places. You see, the Sainsmart board are run by opto couplers. The LEDWiz is sending signals to them telling them to activate the contact relays. There is no way there would be any back feed of any kind, risking any damage to your Wiz. They would be better used AFTER the relay contacts cause now, since the power are daisy chained, should one item go bonkers, there are more chances of having problems than in between the Sainsmart and the Wiz. Other than that, very nice setup. ☺
As stated, I followed Mr Frenchy. What hour suggesting I believe js the diode / resistor which I have on all my toys.
The fuse from my understanding is in case the 24v,12v touches the signal area and then send that voltage to your ledwiz and thus to ur pc usb and poof done 👍
Hey there…I’ve spoke to you before and like your tutorials. Just have a couple questions.
1) with the three prong outlet, how do you know what colour wire is positive, neutral and ground, to then connect to power supply?
2) when linking (daisy chain) all power supplies to one another, is it just to power them up?
I ask, because I thought I followed your video properly, however I still ended up smoking my wires. I also had terminal blocks connected ad wondered if that was the cause. Please can you help?
Thank you in advance 👍🏾
Hey bud.
1. Green is ground, white is neutral, black is live. Your power supply have 3 things on the left or right side (L,N, and a upside down triangle symbol) L is black wire, N is white wire, triangle is green.
2. Yes instead of having 3 plugs into a power strip.. I only need 1 plug.
Be sure to use the correct gauge.. I cut up an old extension cord
Not sure what you would have terminal block connected to
@@Vic_VP to be honest, I believe I'm going to remove the terminal blocks. I used them to connect the solenoids. But the more I watch your video, I don't need them.
Then, I'm trying to understand the fuse connectors and the purpose of them. Because before having solenoids, I didn't need those and then watching your video, it's recommended.
As I mentioned, I don't know how I smoked my cabinet, but I did and afraid to touch it.
Wait you connected your solenoids to the black and white?! U fried the solenoids 100%
That's 240v
@@Vic_VP no I didn't. Hard to explain. Would have to send you photo. Solenoids are fine...I believe I've messaged you on messenger, I'll reach out to you there. A lot easier
Just got the contactors connected to sainsmart. The knocker and gear motor are working but I can't get the contactors to work. The sain smart clicks with a red light every time I push the flipper or hit say slingshot etc but that is it. When I check the contactors directly with a 24 volt power supply they click. any thoughts on what it could be?
Do u have the 24v going in to the relay... the middle of the 3 on the relay
@@Vic_VP yes I do. Its so odd. The exact thing I did with the gear motor and knocker
@@juanperez772 do u have the diode on it? Maybe it's not in the right direction
@@Vic_VP I checked that too the stripe is on the positive side. Anything else you can think of?
@@juanperez772 Def if you have the red light in the board then it's gotta b a wiring issue with the solenoid.
Do you have the ground of 24v going to the solenoids
I’m doing mine just like yours this week! Thank you for the video!
What model number are you using for your contractors? I was hoping I bought the same model as you so I don’t run into problems.
Thanks again! Keep up the great work!
Check my other vid
czcams.com/video/rWD2DqpdYRU/video.html
The contactor I used have jacked up in price and I can't seem to find any on ebay for even close to what I paid for :/
I watched your pinball build videos and you mentioned, the playfield is 49 inches, if that is the case, what is the actual width and length of your playfield cabinet?
My playfield is a 50 inches
I followed the same plans as a bally wide body
Only change is the width which on my pin is 25.5
Everything else is the same as the plans for a bally widened which you can find on google
Thanks!
What size inline fuses did you use?
Check my part 1 vid I have parts list in description
You do not need fuses, the Sainsmart board has optocouplers on the inputs.
Fuses are for the ledwiz
@@Vic_VP How can the ledwiz ouput be damaged by an optocoupler?
@@stalefurset9444 sorry maybe I mis-said
I have
Pc>usb>ledwiz>fuses>to sainsmart INPUT
I looked for "LED Blinky" or "LED Blinkie" and I could not find it. What is an LED Blinky?
Sorry its a ledwiz
Not led blinky I listed it in the description
@@Vic_VP Thanks for your reply, I was really giving you a hard time, as I saw "LED WIZ" all over the video. Thanks for posting your build, you have done a good job.
Yea I totally realized after the fact and I started editing
I'm like damit its not ledblinky lmao
Was to lazy to Roshoot it lmao
Hi, nice project, I wanted to know why you used the ledwiz combined with the Sainsmart. Was one enough? thanks
The sainsmart board controls all my toys... my toys have different voltages... the ledwiz cannot handle over 5v... so you will need both
I have a 16chabbel sainsmart and 32 channel led wiz
1 led wiz definitly is enough.
My 16channel sainsmart is perfect amount of ports... but if you want a lot of toys (I'm missing blower fan and bells and knocker) then u may need another sainsmart board
@@Vic_VP and using only the 16-channel sainsboard to control 10 toys with the same voltage can be fine?. is it compatible with dof? thank you
@@cattalov yes my setup is compatible with dof... the sainsmart allows you to use any voltage PER toy/input. So I have a few 24v toys, a few 12v toys on my sainsmart.
@@Vic_VP ok, then i use the sainsmart for my 24v toys...the ledwiz is too expensive 😅
@@cattalov no you need the ledwiz to activate the sainsmart... you need both
What fuse strength are used from ledwiz to sainsmart
I use 500ma 250v
In one of my vids in the description I posted all links I used to purchased my stuff
@@Vic_VP thank you. I really enjoy your videos
As far as the diodes and the solenoids go, can I use jumper wires to connect the diodes to the wires to avoid soldiering?
Partially, the diodes are solid wires... not stranded.. so it'll be difficult to get them to stay together
That makes sense. One last thing for you I'd love how you Daisy chained the power supplies. I can't clearly see through your video how you did that. Can you briefly describe the connections?