Awesome stuff, wicked smaht! Just got done canning 5bbls of an IPL at work, so its got me thinking. I like what 34/70 can do to something crisp and west coast, but also liked it in the more New Englandy dry-hopped cashmere pilsner we did a while back. Probably gonna play around with both styles. With regards to your hop flavor, both Centennial and especially Idaho 7 are great in the whirlpool according to a Scott Janish article. I would bump up your addition to a total of 6-8oz for maximum saturation, although maybe layering throughout 30, 20, 10 and reducing your 60 minute could help too. I've been reading about how some hops, such as Cascade and Centennial, can actually impart lots of oils in the boils that you don't get through late additions alone. Cheers!
Excellent info! What yeast did you end up using for the 5 bbl batch? I'm thinking of starting to throw my whirlpool hops straight in to the wort instead of using the hop spider since I'm concerned about under utilizing them. Thanks for watching!
@@TheApartmentBrewer it's 10bbl batches at work (canned 5 of it) and for that one it was Omega's West Coast Lager. At home we typically just use 34/70 cuz building lager starters is for people with time and no crazy children threatening your stuff
+Two and Half Pints - The jury is still out on dry hopping beers that have bittering additions. Your suggestion of going up to 6-8 ounces for "maximum saturation" is way over the saturation point. Shellhammer’s research indicated that *_un-hopped_* beer was fully saturated at only 5.4 ounces in a five-gallon batch (8gr/liter). The fact that there is a bittering addition, flavor addition, *_and_* whirlpool hops, means there were already 5.5 ounces-worth of hop oils in solution before he even dry-hopped. Although further research is needed, I'm prone to believe those hot-side additions impact the beer's ability to even absorb the 4 ounce dry hop that he did. Just throwing that out there. The likely culprit in the beer seemingly needing more hops is just the fact that the yeast is 34/70. Weihenstephaner is absolutely incredible yeast, and I love it very much, but it is noted for "muting" hop character.
@@bradleypariah I was assuming a 6 gallon (into the fermenter) batch which corresponds to the 8g/L guideline, which from personal experience I agree seems to be maximum saturation. With regards to the hotside saturation, I know homebrewers have less utilization than the larger scale pro brewers so perhaps upping the late boil/whirlpool is better than upping the dry hop. From sampling the beer at multiple stages on both the 10bbl and 6gal scale I have noticed that a strong late/whirlpool carries over through the beer, especially in the flavor department, though on the homebrew scale you have to use nearly twice the hops for the same effect. I have anecdotally noticed that 34/70 could stand to be slightly overhopped in order to achieve the same perceived character. I guess this is a pretty long-winded way of saying I agree with your assessment.
So happy that they're gaining popularity after failing to launch years ago, but so sad that they're called "cold IPAs" because most of the craft market doesn't really understand beer. Oh well, definitely a win. I'll be brewing one with this video soon!
Urban Dictionary: Wickedawesome - The process of something being so amazing it is practically unimaginable. One cannot even begin to comprehend how awesome the thing in question is. :-) Thanks for the video. Tom.
Dude, loved the video... always do. So stoked to see the Ommegang tee shirt. I am a New Yorker, they are in Cooperstown, home of the Baseball home of Fame, and a beautiful place. Additionally, their beer is spot on! Big fan!. I have learned a lot from you and thank you for sharing.... life must be lived.... if you have to slow down, do it! Life is so fleeting.... grab the moments you can... drink them up... savor them as you would a well crafted beer.... all the best!
Yes! I actually went to college in upstate NY and they were the brewery that turned me on to craft beer! Still really enjoy their stuff. Thanks for the support man!
bjcp is like a dictionary, it chronicles popular usage of styles. it doesn't "set" styles. If you're brewing an IPL, it's a style! Definitely want to try one of these, esp. during the winter months.
Did you ferment under pressure without yest collector jar? or you just removed it just before dry hop? I like your conten, keep going. Best regards from Norway
Thank you for this video! I was very interested in learning what your interpretation of an IPL should be. It's getting more and more difficult for me to tell the difference between Lagers and Pale Ales. But I have to admit, I'm tired of the hop craze. My beer ambition these days is to find a well balanced German style light Lager that's malty and well balanced with a nice dry finish.
I understand exactly where you're coming from, I love IPAs but sometimes you can feel inundated with them. I love a good German lager though, I feel I brew them more than IPAs haha
@@TheApartmentBrewer I always wondered what made Pabst, Schlitz, Blatz, etc. such popular beers back in the day. Would it be possible to replicate those pre-(or post) prohibition lagers?
👏 I agree with you. West coast IPA styles are far better than New England IPA’s. Don’t get me wrong. New England has it’s place but, that sharp clean hoppy bite is quintessential for the West Coast IPA. 😋👍
Planning to brew this up this weekend! It sounds delicious and I’ve never brewed an IPL before. Quick question on the 34/70. I’ve used it before and get a very strong sulphur smell during fermentation even at room temp and under pressure. Did you get any of that with this beer?
Yeah that's pretty standard lager yeast behavior, although I didn't experience that in this beer. It goes away after some time in the fermenter, usually about 2-3 weeks after pitching. In some styles like a pilsner its definitely nice to have a little sulfur bite though!
awesome videos. relatively new to the channel and in my top 3 brew channels I follow. I have just upgraded my system to a fermzilla and was wondering do you cold crash your beer in the fermenter of just use the floating dip tube to get the clear beer. I really appreciate all the work you are doing.
Thanks for the feedback! I tend not to cold crash as 9/10 times if I need something clarified, finings in the keg will do the trick, but if you have the capacity to do that it doesn't hurt. The floating dip tube will keep out all the yeast/trub/dry hop material regardless, so it really is personal preference.
If I followed your recipe but fermented in a glass carboy and then bottle conditioned, do you believe it would work? I guess I wouldn't know when to add gelatin.
Glass carboy is fine as long as you're not pressure fermenting. Be careful with oxygen exposure and you should be ok. If you cold crash the carboy and add gelatin finings a few days before bottling you should see the intended effects.
The calculation of 68 IBUs seems high for the additions you've stated. Is 68 IBUs correct for your 2 boil hops and whirlpool hops? Seems like it should be low 40s.
It's a good question. I use beersmith for all these calculations and that is the calculated number that was spit out. Sometimes the whirlpool calculations will throw out way higher numbers than what reflects reality. Perceived bitterness is more like in the 50s I think.
Great idea using the pressure fermenter! We went with the traditional longer chilled fermentation lager method using a temperature control chamber. Cody will have to explore and read up on the pressure process. How do you expect that to expand up to a commercial/microbrewery size?
I think the whole idea actually goes the other way around. I believe it was based on some theory that large breweries had so much volume in their fermenters that wort at the bottom of the tanks was fermenting under pressure. Additionally there's the concept of the Brite/carbonation tank. This type of fermenter attempts to bring that idea to the homebrew level.
Quick question if I have the capability to ferment at lager temps, what yeast would you use and would you lager it if I did use that type.of yeast? Keep up the video man, loving every beer you've produced
To be completely honest, I don't think i would change it. You want something clean as a whistle, so 34/70 does that well, but also a possibility would be 2124 or maybe cal lager
Thank you for a god video, a question thou about the pressure fermentation is it possible to ferment a lageryeast under pressure at 10-14c? The reason I wonder is that my garagetemperature is in that range now😊
@@TheApartmentBrewer I forgot two more questions.. 1. The yeast is a S-189 2. I read on other places that I should pitch the yeast in a temperature as is recommended for a normal lager yeast when fermenting without Pressure and let it sit for about 24h before adding pressure.
My Fermzilla is still in the box, I can’t wait to use it. Maybe I’ll do a milkshake IPA and put it to use I dunno I wanna do something just not sure yet.👍🏻👍🏻 I’m kinda into Belgium and October Fest beers at the moment. I’ll probably leave the milkshake IPA for spring. Any ideas for a fall/winter beer??
Whatever fermentation temperature you're working with is fine, but most people report better aroma from a higher temperature. Just be sure to give it some time at room temp after for a diacetyl rest
It looks like you included some Na/K metabisulfite with your dry hop? If so how much? Also, are you including the ascorbic acid in this beer because its a hoppy style? What dosage rate have you used there, and when do you add it? Thanks.
Yep, its some ascorbic acid + metabisulfate. You can add a few grams either during the mash to cut down on ROS in the mash or you can add post fermentation (so you don't negatively affect yeast health). Its antioxidant properties help keep hop character fresh longer.
If you can take the aeration screen and o ring off your faucet, you may be able to access some threading. If you do, then you can get an adapter for it to run a line to your chiller
You should really look into rehydrating Dry Yeast, I primarily use dry yeast and I noticed a much better efficiency with rehydrated yeast compared to just pitching right from the packets. A lot of companies have instructions on how to rehydrate the yeast on the packets or on their website. Its easier then making a starter and has a significant impact! and on the topic of NEIPAs I feel like they contributed to the stop of breweries just loading IPAs with hops to make IBU Bombs and I think we can all agree the death of the trend was the best thing to happen to IPAs.
So usually I do rehydrate my dry yeast, but over the past two times I used W34/70 I started pitching dry and still had excellent and healthy fermentations. I think if I were using something like US-05 I would probably rehydrate, but thats my personal preference. Also, I know where you are coming from in regards to the over-bittering of west coast IPAs haha, nothing wrong with that and I definitely have experienced a few of those myself, but its all personal taste. Thanks for watching!
Yup! Lagering only refers to cold conditioning to let fermentation byproducts clear up and clarify the beer. The pressurized fermentation drastically lowers the amount of byproducts that need to be cleaned up and the addition of whirlfloc and gelatin pretty much removes the need to wait for clarification.
I suppose theoretically you could, but I don't know if lager yeasts biotransform and create juicy flavors from the interaction with dry hops. I don't necessarily see the point though as much better options exist for quick NEIPA fermentations (kveik). NEIPA is also a style where yeast character can be desirable with added fruity notes.
Awesome stuff, wicked smaht! Just got done canning 5bbls of an IPL at work, so its got me thinking. I like what 34/70 can do to something crisp and west coast, but also liked it in the more New Englandy dry-hopped cashmere pilsner we did a while back. Probably gonna play around with both styles. With regards to your hop flavor, both Centennial and especially Idaho 7 are great in the whirlpool according to a Scott Janish article. I would bump up your addition to a total of 6-8oz for maximum saturation, although maybe layering throughout 30, 20, 10 and reducing your 60 minute could help too. I've been reading about how some hops, such as Cascade and Centennial, can actually impart lots of oils in the boils that you don't get through late additions alone. Cheers!
Excellent info! What yeast did you end up using for the 5 bbl batch? I'm thinking of starting to throw my whirlpool hops straight in to the wort instead of using the hop spider since I'm concerned about under utilizing them. Thanks for watching!
@@TheApartmentBrewer it's 10bbl batches at work (canned 5 of it) and for that one it was Omega's West Coast Lager. At home we typically just use 34/70 cuz building lager starters is for people with time and no crazy children threatening your stuff
+Two and Half Pints - The jury is still out on dry hopping beers that have bittering additions. Your suggestion of going up to 6-8 ounces for "maximum saturation" is way over the saturation point. Shellhammer’s research indicated that *_un-hopped_* beer was fully saturated at only 5.4 ounces in a five-gallon batch (8gr/liter). The fact that there is a bittering addition, flavor addition, *_and_* whirlpool hops, means there were already 5.5 ounces-worth of hop oils in solution before he even dry-hopped. Although further research is needed, I'm prone to believe those hot-side additions impact the beer's ability to even absorb the 4 ounce dry hop that he did. Just throwing that out there. The likely culprit in the beer seemingly needing more hops is just the fact that the yeast is 34/70. Weihenstephaner is absolutely incredible yeast, and I love it very much, but it is noted for "muting" hop character.
@@bradleypariah I was assuming a 6 gallon (into the fermenter) batch which corresponds to the 8g/L guideline, which from personal experience I agree seems to be maximum saturation. With regards to the hotside saturation, I know homebrewers have less utilization than the larger scale pro brewers so perhaps upping the late boil/whirlpool is better than upping the dry hop. From sampling the beer at multiple stages on both the 10bbl and 6gal scale I have noticed that a strong late/whirlpool carries over through the beer, especially in the flavor department, though on the homebrew scale you have to use nearly twice the hops for the same effect. I have anecdotally noticed that 34/70 could stand to be slightly overhopped in order to achieve the same perceived character. I guess this is a pretty long-winded way of saying I agree with your assessment.
Probably the best homebrewing CZcamsr ! Nice recipe!
So happy that they're gaining popularity after failing to launch years ago, but so sad that they're called "cold IPAs" because most of the craft market doesn't really understand beer. Oh well, definitely a win. I'll be brewing one with this video soon!
I had Yuengling's IPL once and really enjoyed and always wanted to brew my own. Thanks for the inspiration!
Thanks for watching, I'm really happy you enjoyed the video! I think this was actually a really fun brew.
I love that the font color you use for the malts relates to their SRM!
Thanks! It kind of makes editing more fun haha
Urban Dictionary: Wickedawesome - The process of something being so amazing it is practically unimaginable. One cannot even begin to comprehend how awesome the thing in question is. :-) Thanks for the video. Tom.
Thanks for the support Tom, I appreciate the kind words!
Well deserved break. Take it easy. Yeah and Ommegang rocks. Awesome brewery to visit.
Agreed, it was one of the first breweries I actually ever went to
Awesome channel, glad i found your content!
Some great equipment you've picked up and what a beautiful IPL 🤯
Cheers Steve
Thanks Jesse! I love this thing, and it's definitely very accessible. Glad you enjoyed the video, cheers man!
Dude, loved the video... always do. So stoked to see the Ommegang tee shirt. I am a New Yorker, they are in Cooperstown, home of the Baseball home of Fame, and a beautiful place. Additionally, their beer is spot on! Big fan!.
I have learned a lot from you and thank you for sharing.... life must be lived.... if you have to slow down, do it! Life is so fleeting.... grab the moments you can... drink them up... savor them as you would a well crafted beer.... all the best!
Yes! I actually went to college in upstate NY and they were the brewery that turned me on to craft beer! Still really enjoy their stuff. Thanks for the support man!
Great video! Enjoy your break. I’ll definitely be trying this one soon
Thanks! I hope you like west coast style hopping, I really had fun with this one!
bjcp is like a dictionary, it chronicles popular usage of styles. it doesn't "set" styles. If you're brewing an IPL, it's a style! Definitely want to try one of these, esp. during the winter months.
Beautiful looking beer. That grain bill looks great for an IPA.
Thanks! It's definitely not bad, I think it would definitely work with an IPA!
That looks incredible. Keep up the good work, dude!
Thanks! I appreciate the support!
Did you ferment under pressure without yest collector jar? or you just removed it just before dry hop? I like your conten, keep going. Best regards from Norway
Great video. Keep them coming. Cheers
Thanks, cheers!
Your videos helped me a lot. Thanks man!
Planning to brew this with lutra as a pseudo lager. Sure it'll be great
Great idea!
Nice Beer Steve!
Thanks Francis!
Looks great man, sounds like a good beer for my next brew! Cheers!
Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed the video! Definitely a very fun and doable beer. 34/70 is very easy to work with. Cheers!
Love it! I do a lot similar lagers however I avoid crystal malt. I have been using a lot of the new school German hops in them which is wonderful.
Awesome!! I bet the new German hops are very interesting and fun to work with. Keeping out the crystal probably makes them shine a bit more.
Looks like fun. Cheers 🍻
Thanks, it was! Cheers!
I've been looking to add an IPL to my tap board, maybe even making a Black IPL. Good TTPs here to use as I build that recipe. Cheers!
Black IPL sounds like a very interesting idea, I know you've got a solid black lager recipe too start with. Hope it works out well for you!
Thank you for this video! I was very interested in learning what your interpretation of an IPL should be. It's getting more and more difficult for me to tell the difference between Lagers and Pale Ales. But I have to admit, I'm tired of the hop craze. My beer ambition these days is to find a well balanced German style light Lager that's malty and well balanced with a nice dry finish.
I understand exactly where you're coming from, I love IPAs but sometimes you can feel inundated with them. I love a good German lager though, I feel I brew them more than IPAs haha
@@TheApartmentBrewer I always wondered what made Pabst, Schlitz, Blatz, etc. such popular beers back in the day. Would it be possible to replicate those pre-(or post) prohibition lagers?
I don't see why not. Pilsner style beer can come out fantastic
👏 I agree with you. West coast IPA styles are far better than New England IPA’s. Don’t get me wrong. New England has it’s place but, that sharp clean hoppy bite is quintessential for the West Coast IPA. 😋👍
I think they're just a bit more diverse and interesting! So long as they're not tongue melting bitter they're definitely my preferred IPA style
Planning to brew this up this weekend! It sounds delicious and I’ve never brewed an IPL before. Quick question on the 34/70. I’ve used it before and get a very strong sulphur smell during fermentation even at room temp and under pressure. Did you get any of that with this beer?
Yeah that's pretty standard lager yeast behavior, although I didn't experience that in this beer. It goes away after some time in the fermenter, usually about 2-3 weeks after pitching. In some styles like a pilsner its definitely nice to have a little sulfur bite though!
I've never had the Hoponius, but their Excess is amazing (triple dry hopped I believe).
Yes! They make fantastic beers all around
I think I'm remembering correctly didn't Yeungling make an IPL?
awesome videos. relatively new to the channel and in my top 3 brew channels I follow. I have just upgraded my system to a fermzilla and was wondering do you cold crash your beer in the fermenter of just use the floating dip tube to get the clear beer. I really appreciate all the work you are doing.
Thanks for the feedback! I tend not to cold crash as 9/10 times if I need something clarified, finings in the keg will do the trick, but if you have the capacity to do that it doesn't hurt. The floating dip tube will keep out all the yeast/trub/dry hop material regardless, so it really is personal preference.
If I followed your recipe but fermented in a glass carboy and then bottle conditioned, do you believe it would work? I guess I wouldn't know when to add gelatin.
Glass carboy is fine as long as you're not pressure fermenting. Be careful with oxygen exposure and you should be ok. If you cold crash the carboy and add gelatin finings a few days before bottling you should see the intended effects.
i wish there were more iPL's, so much better then an ipa
I really like the style, there is a marked difference!
The calculation of 68 IBUs seems high for the additions you've stated. Is 68 IBUs correct for your 2 boil hops and whirlpool hops? Seems like it should be low 40s.
It's a good question. I use beersmith for all these calculations and that is the calculated number that was spit out. Sometimes the whirlpool calculations will throw out way higher numbers than what reflects reality. Perceived bitterness is more like in the 50s I think.
Great idea using the pressure fermenter! We went with the traditional longer chilled fermentation lager method using a temperature control chamber. Cody will have to explore and read up on the pressure process. How do you expect that to expand up to a commercial/microbrewery size?
I think the whole idea actually goes the other way around. I believe it was based on some theory that large breweries had so much volume in their fermenters that wort at the bottom of the tanks was fermenting under pressure. Additionally there's the concept of the Brite/carbonation tank. This type of fermenter attempts to bring that idea to the homebrew level.
It would be a great video if you made a segment on cleaning your plate chiller.
One of these days I'm sure I'll do a system clean video
Quick question if I have the capability to ferment at lager temps, what yeast would you use and would you lager it if I did use that type.of yeast?
Keep up the video man, loving every beer you've produced
To be completely honest, I don't think i would change it. You want something clean as a whistle, so 34/70 does that well, but also a possibility would be 2124 or maybe cal lager
Great videos man, you from Central NY? I see the Ommegang Shirt.
Went to college in Upstate NY, Ommegang was the first real craft beer I really got into
@@TheApartmentBrewer it’s an awesome brewery with some great beers! Great content man, like the grain to glass concept!
West Coast >>>> NEIPA. 100% agree!
Did you cold crash after dry hopping?
I dont think I did if I remember correctly
Thank you for a god video, a question thou about the pressure fermentation is it possible to ferment a lageryeast under pressure at 10-14c?
The reason I wonder is that my garagetemperature is in that range now😊
It is possible to pressure ferment at those temps just fine.
@@TheApartmentBrewer I forgot two more questions..
1. The yeast is a S-189
2. I read on other places that I should pitch the yeast in a temperature as is recommended for a normal lager yeast when fermenting without Pressure and let it sit for about 24h before adding pressure.
Great content, keep it coming. Are you a watch guy? Looks like you've got a nice little collection.
Guilty as charged haha, I've got a bunch of fun low/ mid range pieces and a few nice ones that I rotate
Haha.. Good to see there's more watch loving home brewers out their.
My Fermzilla is still in the box, I can’t wait to use it. Maybe I’ll do a milkshake IPA and put it to use I dunno I wanna do something just not sure yet.👍🏻👍🏻
I’m kinda into Belgium and October Fest beers at the moment. I’ll probably leave the milkshake IPA for spring. Any ideas for a fall/winter beer??
How about a porter or stout? Or if you want to pressure ferment a lager there's still plenty of time to do a helles, märzen or schwarzbier!
TheApartmentBrewer I haven’t done a porter in a long time, that might be a nice one to do.
Trying this one today in my Chinese apartment, but I'll be putting S-23 under pressure instead.
Does this recipe include the adjustments you said you would of done? Like the increased whirlpool. I'm brewing this next
The recipe does not contain the potential improvements so feel free to do that. Good luck!
@@TheApartmentBrewer thanks buddy!
@TheApartmentBrewer which water profile would you use in beersmith if you were using distilled water?
I'd recommend a good west coast IPA style water profile. Heavy on the minerals, and a good 2 or 3 to 1 sulfate to chloride ratio
I have a question, at what temperature is more preferible to dry hop in lagers and in ales?
Whatever fermentation temperature you're working with is fine, but most people report better aroma from a higher temperature. Just be sure to give it some time at room temp after for a diacetyl rest
It looks like you included some Na/K metabisulfite with your dry hop? If so how much? Also, are you including the ascorbic acid in this beer because its a hoppy style? What dosage rate have you used there, and when do you add it? Thanks.
Yep, its some ascorbic acid + metabisulfate. You can add a few grams either during the mash to cut down on ROS in the mash or you can add post fermentation (so you don't negatively affect yeast health). Its antioxidant properties help keep hop character fresh longer.
Take care of urself...and enjoy the beer
Thank you!
Great brother.. your video are motivated.. but when I try I am making some mistakes and ruining the beer
Keep at it, I'm sure you'll be able to get it perfect one day!
My new apartment doesn't have a faucet that my chiller can connect to.
Do you have any recommendations to get around this?
If you can take the aeration screen and o ring off your faucet, you may be able to access some threading. If you do, then you can get an adapter for it to run a line to your chiller
Maybe something like this could help: www.amazon.com/Camco-Connects-Standard-Various-Sources/dp/B000EDOSKG/ref=asc_df_B000EDOSKG/
Hey Steve just curious if you have made a Cold IPA?
Got the ingredients for one sitting in the basement right now!
@@TheApartmentBrewer nice! I assume a video to follow? Looking forward to it!
100%!
You should really look into rehydrating Dry Yeast, I primarily use dry yeast and I noticed a much better efficiency with rehydrated yeast compared to just pitching right from the packets. A lot of companies have instructions on how to rehydrate the yeast on the packets or on their website. Its easier then making a starter and has a significant impact! and on the topic of NEIPAs I feel like they contributed to the stop of breweries just loading IPAs with hops to make IBU Bombs and I think we can all agree the death of the trend was the best thing to happen to IPAs.
So usually I do rehydrate my dry yeast, but over the past two times I used W34/70 I started pitching dry and still had excellent and healthy fermentations. I think if I were using something like US-05 I would probably rehydrate, but thats my personal preference. Also, I know where you are coming from in regards to the over-bittering of west coast IPAs haha, nothing wrong with that and I definitely have experienced a few of those myself, but its all personal taste. Thanks for watching!
Great video!!! You put table sugar on dry hop??? Thnx
Nope, that's a little ascorbic acid to help keep oxygen intake under control, but good question!
@@TheApartmentBrewer Ahhhhhhhhh Thanks
Not a bad Boston accent my guy 😂
ready in 28 days? no "lagering"?
Yup! Lagering only refers to cold conditioning to let fermentation byproducts clear up and clarify the beer. The pressurized fermentation drastically lowers the amount of byproducts that need to be cleaned up and the addition of whirlfloc and gelatin pretty much removes the need to wait for clarification.
Could you make a New England IPL
I suppose theoretically you could, but I don't know if lager yeasts biotransform and create juicy flavors from the interaction with dry hops. I don't necessarily see the point though as much better options exist for quick NEIPA fermentations (kveik). NEIPA is also a style where yeast character can be desirable with added fruity notes.
How have you sent up your keg?
What do you want to know, specifically?
This video is sponsered by kegland!
Nope! Bought all that stuff myself