My First Bicycle Fork Build From Start To Finish
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- čas přidán 9. 02. 2020
- This video is a condensed version of the fork I built for the klunker frameset I built in the spring/summer of 2018. I wanted the fork to be a replica of the Redline fork that was on my first BMX bike, so a strong yet very simple design.
I have a complete playlist with more in-depth details of the frame and fork build, as well as all the tools and fixtures I built along the way: • 650b klunker bicycle f... - Jak na to + styl
Beautiful fork. Great explanation and video. Nice work. Thank you!
Thank you too! I appreciate you taking the time to watch the video and leave feedback!
I love them,nice work & ride
Thank you!
That was amazing
Thanks!
Nice work
This is great, really interesting to see how it went together.. I’m wanting to build a klunker as a project.. just need to find a suitable frame!
Great video 🤘🏻
Go for it! Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment!
awesome work!
Thank you!
I've always wanted to build a custom bike with my powertig welder. Very good.
Thanks! Just gotta make it happen man!
That's awesome 😍
Thanks 😄!!!
Very cool build! Do you recall what radius bend you could achieve with that bender, and the .065 wall 1.25” tubing? I have a project in mind and I have my eye on a bender like that.
Nice work! I probably would have welded the inside edges of those dropout sections as well although I'm sure it's fine. I'm planning to have a go at making a segmented fork for my next frame. You might be supposed to do a preheat when welding cromo that thick and going by the book, I'm not 100% sure.
Thanks for your feedback! Yes, I generally like to weld all the way on both sides of any kind of bracket, or in this case, a dropout, but I basically wanted to replicate the look of how Linn Kastan welded the original Redline fork dropouts, so I just copied that weld pattern.
All the info I've found about welding chromoly says room temperature is fine up to .120 thick. I think my crown ring was thicker than that, but the welding there was really just to hold it in place and not anything structural. I also pressed a scrap section of the 1 1/4 tube onto the bottom of the 1 1/8 steerer tube so the outside diameters would be the same (fork legs/steerer tube weld point), which is what the weld on the bottom of the steerer tube was for. I think the combination of that was probably in the realm of .120, but I feel like it's ok since the fork legs are .065.
Thanks again for taking the time to comment!
Amazing
Thank you! Cheers!
Interesting. Thanks. I built my two frames, but didnt have the guts nor skills to make the forks.
Yeah, forks are pretty much something that can kill you if you make a mistake. I kept these pretty simple and overbuilt them with the .065 chromoly tubing. They're heavy, but I trust them!
Thanks for commenting, I appreciate it!
@@JoeyMesa hey I wonder how much is your fork weight?
need to build something like this! do you use common carbon steel in the shaft suport and the bottom circle caps? their weld nice with the cromoly tubes? klunkers are our lovely childhood extension!!! real funny bikes. Where I live nobody sells straight forks for 26 wheels, bad there... this video is a hope and inspiration for me. greetings from yguazu
Thanks! Yes, the bottom caps and the dropouts are mild steel. The rest is 4130 cromoly.
I wish i could afford a tig welder, would love to do some welding on cromo frames, but those things are so god damn expensive :(
Do you buy the bottom part of the steerer tube or make it yourself? The part that has an edge such that the fork will fit up nicely to the headset? I have been looking into buying steerer tubes and fork blades to build my own fork but that part of the process I am not sure how to do.. Thanks for great content.
I got the crown race ring from Nova Cycles www.cycle-frames.com/STEEL-UNICROWN-OVERSIZED-RACE-RING-FINISH-OD.html?category_id=1043
I also got the 1 1/8" steerer tube from them. Since my fork legs were 1 1/4", I took an extra piece of left over material and pressed it onto the lower portion of the steerer tube just below the race ring. It looks like Nova is currently out of stock, but the little ring made it pretty easy to get the fork built.
With all that said, I still had to file it down some to get the crown race from my headset to press on. Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback and for your question!
@@JoeyMesa Dear Joey. Thank you very much. We are running a non profit bike workshop here in Svendborg, Denmark, giving out free bicyles to people who participate in fixing them up. Our next dream is to start modifying and even building frames from scratch :) Videos like yours are a big help!
Best
What welder do u use for mold steel and hi tensile steel
For thin wall steel, a TIG welder is the best option. That's what is being used in the video.
@@JoeyMesa can hi tensile steel and stainless steel be welded together with a tig welder
@@TW39 yes
That chromoly frame?
Yes!
Bakal lodi
give me fork :D
not sold here
Zz
Wouldn’t the fork caps have seep holes in them? No need to drill a hole for gases
Those forks have no way to let condensation out.
If the caps had holes in them, they wouldn't look like Redline forks from the 1970's. That was the goal. It's a unique 1 off for for my personal bike. I don't ride it often in bad weather, but there are holes in the top of the fork at the steerer tube.
I also live in the high desert where moisture evaporates quickly, so it hasn't been a problem at all.
See the other reply...
@@JoeyMesa gotcha the desert helps. I live In east Texas. The moisture here is ridiculous.