Great tips, did mine a month ago, I used nutbuster heater to heat up those 4 bolts that hold egr valve, once they start loosening go slow!!! Back and forth 1/8’ at the time so they don’t break
was surprised to see the video as i didnt know you were doing them!.i was listening and was like, i know that voice then saw the name! 1 hell of a Great Mechanix, Carl word was gold to me! Best of luck to you Carl!
I did a video “Volvo D13 EGR repair”. In it I break down the entire egr and rebuild it. The oil lines cool the egr. As you will see they do not lubricate the egr. For less than $20 a lubrication port can be added to the egr valve and eliminate the problem of it failing.
Thank you for the great vid. I’m seeing a little bit of residue of soot. Do you know if it’s because of a bad EGR ? I checked the muffler and also by the filter and I didn’t see any black markings on them. The truck is 2012 Volvo VNL Thanks
Im on youtube looking for solid answers on the D11. My 2009 D11 (has DPF) and ishift. Has an issue. When going down the road and getting up there at just above the green mark on the RPM gauge it's dash alarm begins Buzzing and shows me this NICE, LARGE Oilcan icon and then buzzes with a red " ! " and begins to limp. I see black SMOKE, and have some black stuff spattered on the back of the cab at this RPM and ONLY this RPM under load. I can rev it while parked and no issues. No warnings, but while driving I get this alarm lamp. Thank you for the help!
Rick Mahnn hmm, is the black stuff oil, or soot? If it’s soot, I’d look for boost leaks, or ERG sticking. The oil light throws me off, when it does this do you lose considerable power? It could be the ECU derating the engine because it sees low oil pressure, or high crankcase pressure, or cooling jet pressure sensor. both will give you the red stop lamp, and a failing oil pressure, or cooling jet pressure sensor would give you the oil lamp.. my guess is the oil pressure or cooling jet pressure sender. Unplug them and see if there is oil in the connector on the sensor. If there is its def that sender. But check both this is a known failure. Without more info, and engine data I don’t know for sure. Do you have access to fault codes?
To @@carlthedieselguy5147 : The Code is MID 128 PID 100 FMI 1. As for the soot: I can take my finger and rub it across the specks of soot and it is almost like sticks to the back of the cab, yet it is not wet. It is powder-like and blows this spotty ashe. At the time of the warning light it was NOT losing power and the truck decides to de-rate to slow itself down. I can drive this for about 10 minutes before it before it begins to throw this alarm up and even on high throttle acceleration at first it does not do this. But as the engine warms up. Is where the issue begins to start. When this alarm FIRST starts. i can slow down and the alarm goes away. But when it starts wrapping up into the 1,500 rpm range it will come on and then I have to start slowing down, slowly more and more as the alarm begins to become more frequent at the speeds I was previously at. As I gradually step down in speed on the road.. One other thing I have noticed is that during idle it sounds like the engine is under a load and a high-pitch whistle sound is there at first. Then it finally quits making a "loading sound" and whistling. I dont know if this can help. I've only had the truck for a month as I use to own an FLD120. Thank you!
Oliver Bouteiller you really can’t, on that one the only real way to get it without breaking it, is patience. Break them all loose spray penetrant through the gasket space on the threads and tighten it back in, keep repeating that process. I have also had decent luck heating the boss on the manifold up not wicked hot, but two-three hundred degrees, and cool it by spraying penetrant on the bolt threads. As the air inside, behind the bolt cools it will draw the oil up into the threads. Then keep working it out a little spraying tightening, loosening, spraying, etc... it’ll come out. Honestly I expect to spend an hour maybe two on that one bolt.
Great tips, did mine a month ago, I used nutbuster heater to heat up those 4 bolts that hold egr valve, once they start loosening go slow!!! Back and forth 1/8’ at the time so they don’t break
was surprised to see the video as i didnt know you were doing them!.i was listening and was like, i know that voice then saw the name! 1 hell of a Great Mechanix, Carl word was gold to me! Best of luck to you Carl!
I did a video “Volvo D13 EGR repair”. In it I break down the entire egr and rebuild it. The oil lines cool the egr. As you will see they do not lubricate the egr. For less than $20 a lubrication port can be added to the egr valve and eliminate the problem of it failing.
Can you send me a link or message me back with your video
Im literally about to do this, thanks!keep uploading videos man!
RunHard GetPaid you bet. Hey feel free to subscribe and like. Don’t forget to ring the bell for notifications. I have more content to upload soon.
@@carlthedieselguy5147 where’s the new content
Thank you for the great vid.
I’m seeing a little bit of residue of soot. Do you know if it’s because of a bad EGR ?
I checked the muffler and also by the filter and I didn’t see any black markings on them. The truck is 2012 Volvo VNL
Thanks
Following
My mechanic said it is the exhaust manifold gaskets. On mine. But it depends on the exact placement of the soot
Im on youtube looking for solid answers on the D11. My 2009 D11 (has DPF) and ishift. Has an issue. When going down the road and getting up there at just above the green mark on the RPM gauge it's dash alarm begins Buzzing and shows me this NICE, LARGE Oilcan icon and then buzzes with a red " ! " and begins to limp. I see black SMOKE, and have some black stuff spattered on the back of the cab at this RPM and ONLY this RPM under load. I can rev it while parked and no issues. No warnings, but while driving I get this alarm lamp. Thank you for the help!
Rick Mahnn hmm, is the black stuff oil, or soot? If it’s soot, I’d look for boost leaks, or ERG sticking. The oil light throws me off, when it does this do you lose considerable power? It could be the ECU derating the engine because it sees low oil pressure, or high crankcase pressure, or cooling jet pressure sensor. both will give you the red stop lamp, and a failing oil pressure, or cooling jet pressure sensor would give you the oil lamp.. my guess is the oil pressure or cooling jet pressure sender. Unplug them and see if there is oil in the connector on the sensor. If there is its def that sender. But check both this is a known failure. Without more info, and engine data I don’t know for sure. Do you have access to fault codes?
To @@carlthedieselguy5147 : The Code is MID 128 PID 100 FMI 1. As for the soot: I can take my finger and rub it across the specks of soot and it is almost like sticks to the back of the cab, yet it is not wet. It is powder-like and blows this spotty ashe. At the time of the warning light it was NOT losing power and the truck decides to de-rate to slow itself down. I can drive this for about 10 minutes before it before it begins to throw this alarm up and even on high throttle acceleration at first it does not do this. But as the engine warms up. Is where the issue begins to start.
When this alarm FIRST starts. i can slow down and the alarm goes away. But when it starts wrapping up into the 1,500 rpm range it will come on and then I have to start slowing down, slowly more and more as the alarm begins to become more frequent at the speeds I was previously at. As I gradually step down in speed on the road..
One other thing I have noticed is that during idle it sounds like the engine is under a load and a high-pitch whistle sound is there at first. Then it finally quits making a "loading sound" and whistling. I dont know if this can help. I've only had the truck for a month as I use to own an FLD120. Thank you!
I had to get the egr cooler replaced the trans lines replaced twice and the bearing that holds the drive shaft replaced
Do a video on how to put the u pipe back on the egr valve and cooler there a pain in the ass
Is there anything else I should watch out for I have 2018 volvo vnl 670
Sir egr valve is not working.whts problem in show engen.that chang egr valve.whats saymols plz guide me
Do you have to reset anything in PTT (volvo tech tool?
What code was that 2659? Or 4094? Thanks in advance
I like it!
Now how do you manage to fit a drill into that bottom left that ALWAYS likes to snap
Oliver Bouteiller you really can’t, on that one the only real way to get it without breaking it, is patience. Break them all loose spray penetrant through the gasket space on the threads and tighten it back in, keep repeating that process. I have also had decent luck heating the boss on the manifold up not wicked hot, but two-three hundred degrees, and cool it by spraying penetrant on the bolt threads. As the air inside, behind the bolt cools it will draw the oil up into the threads. Then keep working it out a little spraying tightening, loosening, spraying, etc... it’ll come out. Honestly I expect to spend an hour maybe two on that one bolt.
We want more videos!!
What code usually for EGR?
P0401
good tip
Can you tell me, fault code SPN 4813 FMI 3, in VOLVO D13 . Thank!!!
L'amore L'amore do you know the oem fault code number?
Why the hell does vanguard not know this tgey broke the bolts on mines now i have to replace the damn manifold and its not 700 anymore it's 1300 ‼️
How to remove the EGR from a 2007 mack truck
Thanks
unknow tin your welcome, feel free to subscribe and like. There are more coming very soon.
The way i tske them off is by torching them red hot 🔥 than u unscrew them
Hard to hear
Are you a diesel shop i have an issue with my d13 injectors can you share your location and phone number if you are a shop?
Bob S FLorida I Am not anylonger.
Wishing under a load