Bad Starter Solenoid Symptoms: 5 Leading Signs

Bad Starter Solenoid Symptoms. In this video I explain the common signs of a bad starter solenoid. Identifying bad starter solenoid symptoms can help you diagnose issues with the starting system and know when the solenoid needs to be replaced.
Understanding the key functions of the starter solenoid is important. This electrical switch controls power delivery to the starter motor, and also physically pushes the drive gear out to the flywheel to crank the engine.
Bad starter solenoid symptoms covered in this video include:
- Clicking sound but no cranking when turning the ignition key (bad starter solenoid symptoms)
- Slow or weak cranking of the starter motor (symptoms of a bad starter solenoid)
- Intermittent operation - sometimes starts, sometimes only clicks (bad starter solenoid symptoms)
- Burning smell from solenoid overheating (symptoms of a bad starter solenoid)
- Visible damage like cracked casing or terminals (bad starter solenoid symptoms)
- Battery drain from stuck solenoid switch contacts (symptoms of a bad starter solenoid)
I demonstrate how to test a solenoid to confirm failure using a digital multimeter. Voltage drop tests, continuity checks, and verifying ignition signal and power feed can prove the solenoid is bad. Knowledge of safe starter replacement is also discussed.
Being able to recognize common bad starter solenoid symptoms will help any do-it-yourselfer or mechanic quickly diagnose starting issues. Learn the tell-tale signs of solenoid failure and how to confirm with testing before replacing. If your car won't start reliably, watch this video on diagnosing damaged starter solenoid symptoms.

[@ShakirAuto067]

Good working bro 💯😊

[@extreme6993]

Yes I have a starting issue,Sometimes it turns over before starting,I literally have to hold the key before it catches,Trying to see if I could just clean the filters attached to my vteck selonoid,I have a Honda crv SUV car.

[@elsavaughnnewton5185]

I just installed a brand new starter on my Mustang 3 weeks ago, and now it will not start. It makes a noise, UT the engine doesn't even spin ? Could it be my selinoid ?

[@skipperrussell2025]

The fusible link going to my solenoid blew. I have a dead short to ground from the starter relay pin 87 to ground. Is my solenoid shorted?

[@ShakirAuto067]

Good bro 💯

[@ArcanePath360]

Been having intermittent slow cranking speeds for a while, in fact ever since I got the bike. Bought a battery tester Topdon BT20 and it shows my battery is fine upon load testing, but the cranking voltage is dropping down below 9v much of the time. I took apart the starter motor and cleaned up everything, including all contacts and it made no difference.

[@HonestMechanicChannel]

Hi, managed to find the culprit? It sounds like you've already done some good troubleshooting. Since the battery seems fine under load testing but the cranking voltage drops, it could indicate an issue with the starter motor or the electrical connections between the battery and the starter.
Here are a few more things you might consider checking:
1. Ground Connections: Ensure that all ground connections between the battery, engine, and frame are clean and secure. Poor grounds can cause voltage drop issues.
2. Starter Relay: The starter relay could be faulty, causing intermittent voltage drops. Consider replacing it if you haven't already.
3. Voltage Drop Test:Perform a voltage drop test on the cables between the battery, starter relay, and starter motor. Excessive voltage drop indicates a problem with the cable or connections.
If none of these steps resolve the issue, it might be worth having a professional mechanic take a closer look, as there could be a more complex electrical problem causing the voltage drop.

[@ArcanePath360]

@@HonestMechanicChannel Hi, thanks. Still not found it. But yes, when I said I cleaned up everything, I meant all contact points as well. Positive wires, negative wires, even the terminals of the battery got polished up to a shine. I did notice when I put the four brushes back up against the commutator it was much harder to rotate it, but I'm guessing this is normal with newish looking brushes?. It's my first time stripping down a starter motor so I'm not sure. I put it in a drill press and put varying degrees of sandpaper against it until it was buffed up smooth, ending in 2000 grit. Maybe it's so smooth that it now has more friction with the brushes. I'm still wondering if the battery is at fault and the battery tester itself is not giving the right reading. It is a little inconsistent at times. Once it said my charge was 70% and the second time I pressed it it said 94%. Nearly every load test said good, while one said moderate. But, my battery charger which I often plug in through the glove box always lights up to say there isn't enough charge to crank for the first 30min to and hour after plugging it in, until the 3rd light comes on to say it's ready, then it will take a few more hours until it says it's full. Before this, the multimeter and tester say it's full at around 13v. This same charger when I plugged into my older bike would always go to the 3rd light straight away, so something is up. It is the original battery on the bike and it is 10 years old, so I might just get a new one and see what happens.

[@Joerideabike]

Hey, Honest Mechanic, how come you don’t bother answering your comments?

[@HonestMechanicChannel]

Hi there! I do my best to answer all comments, and I appreciate you taking the time to reach out. If you check my other videos, you'll see that I try to respond to as many questions as possible. The challenge is that I receive a lot of questions daily, and my goal is to provide the most in-depth and helpful information in my replies rather than general answers. Thanks for understanding and for your support! I''ll do my best to answer more comments.