Thanks buddy I was too afraid of going in there with a little more power with the Sandpaper I just went over it real lightly on another note you got me laughing my butt off when you say the word brakes and you hear the whistle like the otter from Winnie the Pooh at 2 minutes and 17 seconds but yeah thanks on the tip
Hey I know u said that you weren't going to take apart the caliper mechanism because it's too complicated, but I havnt been able to find anything on the web of how this thing is assembled. It would be much appreciated if you could make a video on the whole disassemble. Thx if your reading this :)
you are supposed to have an rubber O-ring on the groove of the NEW pad so water and mud don't get in ur caliper, once the oring is installed the brake pad will no longer fall in and out like that. But props for cleaning it up
Not gonna judge but I believe you shouldn't use a grinding wheel on your caliper, what you should use is a decent drill or dremel with a wire wheel attachment to just take all the rust, dirt, grime, etc. off the caliper, then for a lube I would use silicone( I have a metal spray can) or maybe PB blaster. Then again whatever works.
I might do this bro I'm on a budget and just need the rears to work Incase the fronts don't work I'ma mainly use the front but just have the rears fixed I'm hoping this works
If you take out too much with the grinder your brakes are guaranteed to stick or seize. That extra space you grind out and oiled will attract dirt now. Thats gonna make em stick..
Caliper is a machined fit. Deep scores can be filled with JB Weld and sanded smooth. You should have turned the piston on a lathe if you wanted clearance, Clarence.
Do not listen to this kid you're going to end up getting water inside your caliper and you're going to end up f****** the whole thing over do not grind it with a grindstone use a little wire brush on a air tool and go easy on it it should not slide in and pop out that easy it should take a little bit of thumb pressure to push it through just a little bit
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Nice video, my pads were sticking and I did the grinding like you and all was perfect. Thanks for sharing
Thanks buddy I was too afraid of going in there with a little more power with the Sandpaper I just went over it real lightly on another note you got me laughing my butt off when you say the word brakes and you hear the whistle like the otter from Winnie the Pooh at 2 minutes and 17 seconds but yeah thanks on the tip
Hey I know u said that you weren't going to take apart the caliper mechanism because it's too complicated, but I havnt been able to find anything on the web of how this thing is assembled. It would be much appreciated if you could make a video on the whole disassemble. Thx if your reading this :)
Any luck?
Can you do a vido on how to get the brake pads out of the caliper please
you are supposed to have an rubber O-ring on the groove of the NEW pad so water and mud don't get in ur caliper, once the oring is installed the brake pad will no longer fall in and out like that. But props for cleaning it up
Kids clean with scuff pad but do not grind metal away & use the proper lube.I agree on the shorty cable
Not gonna judge but I believe you shouldn't use a grinding wheel on your caliper, what you should use is a decent drill or dremel with a wire wheel attachment to just take all the rust, dirt, grime, etc. off the caliper, then for a lube I would use silicone( I have a metal spray can) or maybe PB blaster. Then again whatever works.
you should do a video on clutch control :)
now your o-ring seal will mot work with it that lose....
What tap size did u use on the bolt that stripped out
I might do this bro I'm on a budget and just need the rears to work Incase the fronts don't work I'ma mainly use the front but just have the rears fixed I'm hoping this works
How do you tighten the brakes?
Where do I find these pads???
I have questions my blaster has no caliber or wires can u help me with what all I need
zack P Ur gonna have to buy a caliper, break cable
If you take out too much with the grinder your brakes are guaranteed to stick or seize. That extra space you grind out and oiled will attract dirt now. Thats gonna make em stick..
I really need help
How many times r u gonna show it falling in and out
Are you still "triggered" about that piston falling out, Skippy?
Caliper is a machined fit. Deep scores can be filled with JB Weld and sanded smooth. You should have turned the piston on a lathe if you wanted clearance, Clarence.
can anyone tell me the reason why the stock break line goes up to the handlebars
for the parking break
If you could take apat what Prodigy said that would be great
I was going to fix mine for the same thing
Bro can we be friends?
It slides in and out in and out in and out oh yeah does that feel good.loljk
It will fall right in and out
Like 100 times
Do not listen to this kid you're going to end up getting water inside your caliper and you're going to end up f****** the whole thing over do not grind it with a grindstone use a little wire brush on a air tool and go easy on it it should not slide in and pop out that easy it should take a little bit of thumb pressure to push it through just a little bit
Useless info. Don’t put oil anywhere near your brake pads unless you want your brakes to slip
Where do I find these pads???
At the drug store in Feminine Products isle. lol