Donn, I found what you are talking about here on my 1949 Mercury from Amt/Ertel model kit made, I think, in 1991. Thanks, and R.I. P. In that big modeling room in the sky.😊
Thanks Donn, I've got the same Revell Foose Custom Cadillac on my work bench as well... I actually thought that the lines on the front and rear wings were actually meant to be there! Now that I have taken a closer look at reference images of the Foose Cadillac, yes, I see that the mould lines need to be taken care of on the kit! So more sanding & priming I think for me :-)
Great informative video Donn, I agree, your finished body is only gonna look as good as you preped it. Taking your time will go a long way in model building. Have a great weekend my friend. Terry
I've noticed a lot of the newer kits have the dome light molded into the underside of the roof - and have a resulting "divot" that needs to be filled in on top!!!
Enjoy these. Been building since the 60s. But build military. Figures. Ships. Autos. Grew up in Pittsburgh also. Weekends at the old PID drag strip. Learn something every time I watch. Modeling has been therapy for me during and after my military career. I just try and make each model better than the last. Keep it up.
Man I love these fundamental Friday videos. I have always loved building. Love all of the knowledge that is shared. I really appreciate it and it’s making me better. Thank you Sir.
I feel really privileged from being able to tune in & get these lessons & tips from Scale Model Techniques. It's stuff like this that keeps me involved in the model building hobby.
Very detailed and well explained for the beginner and the person restarting as I am thankyou. Interesting to see the primer idea which I had thought maybe a good option and now seeing you using to check lines for us brilliant. I also want to add my thanks, as others have below of the effort to product the set of videos useful for everyone and all levels. Keep going and keep safe sir.
Thank you Donn! Another outstanding video. That ‘39 Chevy has the outline for the sunroof inside the body. What methods do you suggest to insure that those lines won’t “Ghost” through to the finish coat?
I just wanted to say thank you very much for taking all the trouble to make these videos. I learned a great deal and it’s inspiring and really fun to watch. A question I don’t use it but I have seen several people who really talk up pledge as a Clearcoat I don’t use it what are your thoughts?
Don one of First things I do with all kits is body inspection of all body related Parts. Main body, hood, rear Valance, front valance spoilers Scoops etc with A fine point Sharpie. I mark all mold lines that need sanded' low spots needing filled , sink marks ( especially along Door lines ) ejector pin Marks its time consuming n tedious but worth every Second. It shows in Final result
Another great video! My ears perked up and I was hoping you would discuss fixing those nasty divots such as those found on the AMT ‘58 Impala. I’m also rebuilding models that I stripped that have deep divots that had parts on it overglued. Maybe you could share your experience on repairing these, how, when, and what fillers and primers to use? Thanks
Thank you so much for that info. What type or kind of sandpaper should I start out with, then finish with through the process? I'm new to the game and my first project will be a 57 Chevy Bel air, and I just got that in. 😊
also I have been using JB Weld for bodywork -big can of Evercoat costs too much and goes bad --Frugal is better--for building-I mark mold lines with a black sharpie
Hi I’m just curious do you paint real cars to cause I was restoring cars my father use the blocks and the cars with 1000 grit sandpaper and we would do it in between each coat of lacquer So I understand about sanding them smooth
Judging by what I've seen go two or three passes and see where you're at. You can always take off more but once it's gone it's gone... at that point you cut out the doors, trunk, etc, and learn the hinging process...
Donn, I found what you are talking about here on my 1949 Mercury from Amt/Ertel model kit made, I think, in 1991. Thanks, and R.I. P. In that big modeling room in the sky.😊
You have some of the greatest tips for everybody I really enjoy watching your videos and I'm still learning even at 61
Prep is king weather it's a 1 to 1 or a model....great video!
I used to know a guy that didn’t paint his bodies. He’d just polish the plastic to an ultra shine. I love the old schoolers techniques.
Thanks Donn, I've got the same Revell Foose Custom Cadillac on my work bench as well... I actually thought that the lines on the front and rear wings were actually meant to be there! Now that I have taken a closer look at reference images of the Foose Cadillac, yes, I see that the mould lines need to be taken care of on the kit!
So more sanding & priming I think for me :-)
Great informative video Donn, I agree, your finished body is only gonna look as good as you preped it. Taking your time will go a long way in model building. Have a great weekend my friend. Terry
You have to remember the three T’s of life when you build models. Those T’s are: things take time.
Fantastic video. Thanks heaps. Greatly appreciated!
As it is said: "The Devil Is In The Details" Good info ..
Rick
I've noticed a lot of the newer kits have the dome light molded into the underside of the roof - and have a resulting "divot" that needs to be filled in on top!!!
God› bless you too! Greets from Switzerland
Thanks for sharing! Great tips! Love your videos. 😎
Enjoy these. Been building since the 60s. But build military. Figures. Ships. Autos. Grew up in Pittsburgh also. Weekends at the old PID drag strip. Learn something every time I watch. Modeling has been therapy for me during and after my military career. I just try and make each model better than the last. Keep it up.
Man I love these fundamental Friday videos. I have always loved building. Love all of the knowledge that is shared. I really appreciate it and it’s making me better. Thank you Sir.
Thank for sharing your knowledge with us...im getting ready to jump back into the hobby.
I really do enjoy your videos, especially the fundamental Fridays as I am just getting back into modeling after 40+ years.
You are 110% correct. It is all about the prep. It’s not a race. The outcome you get to enjoy forever!
I feel really privileged from being able to tune in & get these lessons & tips from Scale Model Techniques. It's stuff like this that keeps me involved in the model building hobby.
Very detailed and well explained for the beginner and the person restarting as I am thankyou. Interesting to see the primer idea which I had thought maybe a good option and now seeing you using to check lines for us brilliant. I also want to add my thanks, as others have below of the effort to product the set of videos useful for everyone and all levels. Keep going and keep safe sir.
thanks for the tip on that I learned something new
Thank you Donn! Another outstanding video. That ‘39 Chevy has the outline for the sunroof inside the body. What methods do you suggest to insure that those lines won’t “Ghost” through to the finish coat?
I just wanted to say thank you very much for taking all the trouble to make these videos. I learned a great deal and it’s inspiring and really fun to watch. A question I don’t use it but I have seen several people who really talk up pledge as a Clearcoat I don’t use it what are your thoughts?
watching multiple videos, I thought my smoke alarm in the basement was beeping. turned out it was you lol
Don one of First things I do with all kits is body inspection of all body related Parts. Main body, hood, rear Valance, front valance spoilers Scoops etc with A fine point Sharpie. I mark all mold lines that need sanded' low spots needing filled , sink marks ( especially along Door lines ) ejector pin Marks its time consuming n tedious but worth every Second. It shows in Final result
Another great video! My ears perked up and I was hoping you would discuss fixing those nasty divots such as those found on the AMT ‘58 Impala. I’m also rebuilding models that I stripped that have deep divots that had parts on it overglued. Maybe you could share your experience on repairing these, how, when, and what fillers and primers to use? Thanks
I found one on the 69 Nova on the top rear…right behind the back passenger side widow near the roof line. The street Burner model.
Thank you so much for that info. What type or kind of sandpaper should I start out with, then finish with through the process? I'm new to the game and my first project will be a 57 Chevy Bel air, and I just got that in. 😊
thank you!
Thanks for sharing .. Be safe take care
also I have been using JB Weld for bodywork -big can of Evercoat costs too much and goes bad --Frugal is better--for building-I mark mold lines with a black sharpie
i look back at some comment i left on your video boy i was dum and i say i'm sorry so i say thank you Mr. yost keep on modeling
Good one. Thanks brother
he is a great fellow jake i hope your my buddy too jake
How much do you charge to build a model for a customer
Question, after sanding the body to 12,000 ,do you prime? Then do you sand some more?
Hi I’m just curious do you paint real cars to cause I was restoring cars my father use the blocks and the cars with 1000 grit sandpaper and we would do it in between each coat of lacquer So I understand about sanding them smooth
when you sand the mold lines do you wet sand or dry sand? Or does it really matter which way?
For the price of models you would think they would do some mold work on removing the mold lines Or lower the price of a defected part
ok there is no way your gonna get that foose Cadillac perfect but however I'm am curious 😂
Hey Donna, what size square do you cut the sandpaper in? Thanks
3/4 inch by 3/4 inch
I see the Scalemodeler use a black sharpie. I have done some of the same models as him. I can never see the model lines for some reason.
I have a question about last weeks video on door lines how many passes in each do you do? I don't want to end up cutting out the doors.
Judging by what I've seen go two or three passes and see where you're at. You can always take off more but once it's gone it's gone... at that point you cut out the doors, trunk, etc, and learn the hinging process...
👍👍👍👍
thats going way back
I haven’t seen any new posts recently, I hope you are doing well.
he passed away
do you know mark baton mr. yost
Put a battery in your smoke detector.
you can't teach time right mr. yost
Please change your smoke detector batterie.