Dave you are amazing! When I get up off the floor, & crying from my ass off here with that "from the directions it said, HAND DRILL, & your response was "I am, I'm using BOTH hands" while using a power drill........ I'll be able to watch the rest of the vid!!!!!!
cont... Anyway . I put the permanent type JLD in my FG-335 Yamaha last August. I pulled the vertical part after screwed in towards the sound hole until the bridge was level (eye ball) with the side and locked down the spruce rod. NO problems, Killer tone, volume and sustain. From what I've read it takes about 3 days to "settle" after the installation and that was about right. Great vids Dave!! Cheers!
I made two of these from scrap and installed them on a couple misfit guitars that had no business being played as they were made in some Indonesian sweat shop of some sort. The first had a ladder bracing pattern on the top and putting strings on it made the bridge stand to attention at such an angle I thought it would pull of the top. No-name Br doctor came to the rescue, it is now my beach guitar and plays great. The second was a high school music class reject that was sitting in a closet and looked like someone turned it into an art class project with stickers and junk pasted to it. Nobody could play the thing due to bridge lift and finger killing action and it couldn't be tuned due to major lift off when strings were attached. Once again it pulled things down close enough to start doing a reasonable setup and is now used for music classes.
Thanks for being our guinea pig Dave. I've been fascinated by the JLD thiingy for quite some time. A buddy had one installed on his guitar and it worked wonderfully. But he got rid of the guitar before I could look it over to determine if it was a project I could undertake on one of mine. I had actually considered just making my own. It certainly looks simple enough.
Thanks Dave, I followed your method except I used a straight-sided bit to recess the pearl dot. My early '90s Ibanez AE40-DRS looks way less 'pregnant' now, with the normal action restored, after 2 weeks of gently 'tweeking' the Allen key. I was maybe luckier than you, but was very impressed with this gizmo. Another time, I'd make one tailored to the actual bridge-it's basic woodwork.
Well, the reason why the instructions advices to first drill a few mm hole with larger drill and then a hole for the screw was to have a snug fit for the inlay. Using the sinker was a bit off the idea. JLD worked wonderfully with my almost 50 years old guitar, very much surprised!
Most bridge doctors come with a pearl inlay to cover the screw, so the hole shouldn’t be countersunk with a tapered bit, but should be counter board with a flat bottom Forstner bit.
I've put this gizmo in about all of my acoustics. On a real serious "belly" they say to nudge it down in stages over days or weeks, and they warn that some guitars have a natural built in belly that can't be forced down-- that was the case with my Epiphone Texan FT-79. But this system will indeed keep any further belly from happening. They also claim that the dowell rod transfers vibrations and seasons a guitar... they say, anyway. That "dot" enlay was ment to go in a 1/4 inch countersink made with a brad drill bit. I went a tad too deep, so I mailed the dude in Roswell $10 and asked for some more dots. He mailed me 3 and it turns out that only 1 was needed to come up flush with the bridge.
Dave your video was one of the main reasons I went ahead and ordered this (so thank you for that!). Agree the instructions seem a little confusing because nobody quite tells you why there are two models of the 'Doctor' or why you need one or the other. I worked it out like you after several readings. I also had to convert all measurements into mm. Advice to others considering this: draw this damn thing out on paper with accurate measurements FIRST. That way you can work out / rehearse as you go along. Make sure you know what EACH move means & why you're supposed to be doing it. I did this on an Eko 12 string and the ONLY place I could drill the hole was by drilling out the rearmost of the three pop rivets holding that bridge in place. Scary! But I got the rivet out, leaving me a hole of a dimension to suit the rivet, not the Doctor. As it happens, that was ok. Like you I just had to dive in and do it: drilling that hole was the most nerve-wracking part. The point is the guitar was unplayable before so I wasn't exactly going to ruin anything by doing this. Did the installation yesterday, have hung it up for a couple of weeks (waiting for new strings) and will see how it goes. Thanks again Dave! Ref. the inlay dot - I lost it even though I sealed the damn packet straight after opening it and examining the parts first time. Mine is now filled with Das clay and covered in a plastic dome that covered the original rivet.
QUOTE: Thanks again Dave! Ref. the inlay dot - I lost it even though I sealed the damn packet straight after opening it. *SO DID I !* ☺ I thought for some time I might have swallowed it with my medication pills - but have since found it (for what it's worth) I probably won't use it.
One thing that should be mentioned. After installation and during tension rod adjustment and tightening, the guitar, at least in my case, started to pop and crack loudly as the top was being levelled. I believe this is normal, but it can be a little frightening if you're not prepared for this. BTW, results were excellent, Bravo Bridge Doctor !
i installed 1 on my daion caribou which had the bridge lifting off the top as well as a bulge. it did a great job. i had the system that replaces the pins.
Thank you! I found a beautiful old Fender that had a huge, huge belly, and a bridge that was about to pull out. I had it all sanded, re-hide-glued and ready to go. This vid was extremely helpful for installing the JBL Bridge Doctor. I'm still amazed that they don't have better instructions on their site (or a vid). But, hey, that's what the internet is for, right?
Just finished an install of one of these. Didn't help the string height; the guitar is straight now but the strings are still too high. I wish I could do a neck reset on a $100 Alvarez but I hear they are epoxied in. Guess I'll bring shave down the bridge 1/16th to fix it.
Just FYI, the MOP inlay fits just fine if you use the proper bit to drill instead of a countersink bit. I used a 1/4 forstner and it fits/looks perfect.
The brad point bit was sized for the pearl insert. I think a rosewood plug looks better though. This system gives inexpensive guitars a way to stay in the game longer, if the issue is belly bulge. And it's only designed to reduce belly bulge. If belly bulge is why your action is high, this product will help. But if it's in need of a neck reset, the bridge Dr wasn't meant to fix that, only belly bulge issue. Great video, I always enjoy them.
I've installed so many of these, I've begun making a much more robust version of it (the JLD patent has run out). The JLD is sold as a "Bridge System" for guitars that are being built with them incorporated into the design (ie. Breedlove's USA-made instruments) or as a "Bridge Doctor" to be retro-fitted into a guitar to flatten a bellied top. The neat thing is that it acts much like a sound post in a violin. The b&s are no longer just reflective and actually make the tone more complex, especially on cheaper instruments. You can feel the back vibrating in your gut more. Action and intonation issue cause by the bellying are cured permanently and it can save the expense of a neck reset. It's truly a wonderful device.
I think you will find that the difference between "System" and Doctor" is not whether fitted when built (or otherwise) but on the method used to attach to the guitar: Bridge Pin Hole for Doctor and drilled hole for System.
DelTangBrav Actually, in the past, JLD marketed both types both ways, but now they market both under "Bridge System" on their site. StewMac, on the other hand, markets both under "Bridge Doctor", And I've seen Music shops sell them as "Bridge Systems". I guess it's titled by the type of place selling it more than the reason for installing it or the model one installs.
guitartec The one I received from StewMac just a few days ago (looks identical to the one in video), did differentiate between Doctor & System in the way I describe. As I mentioned (in another posting) the instructions are abysmal and as Dave says are conflicting. I too intend making a modification for other guitars the one supplied does not have sufficient spacing options to make it suitable for all guitars. Incidentally I looked up the initial design with a patent search - to discover that my envisaged modifications were in the original design. (All wood without the plastic post that the through bridge screw screws into). Best Wishes (also) David
guitartec The one I got is adjustable (three settings - same as the one in video) but they don't cater for two rows of bridge pins on a 12 string or a curved row of pins on many other guitars. I consider the main block should be made for the guitar it is to go on (or in☺) . I'm attempting, with padded weights, to reduce the bulge before fitting so it will have less work to do - and then to prevent any bulge reoccurring. Which wood would you recommend? (I'm thinking of using cedar for the dowel - and also of making that part square instead of round). I have over thirty guitars and three of them could do with some help. It would appear that even the JLD fails on many guitars - so home made ones can't all be expected to succeed.
Dave, the "total fail" is your installation method. Do you normally use a reamer for inlay holes? Then why did you ream this hole? Duh! You can't blame the instructions for that screw up. The inlay piece used to cover the screw doesn't have a tapered edge. Hello? Further the JLD system is NOT designed to lower the action - just solve the bulge issue.
I put in my FG335 Yamaha! I bought a Yamaha FG140 off eBay that the previous owner had put the brass pin type in. The saddle was cracked between the pin holes and epoxied. The repair was "OK" I guess and the seller included the brass type JLD thing with the guitar but removed from the guitar. I think it's reasonable to conclude that the brass pin type is what cracked the bridge since the pull is against the pin holes themselves as opposed to behind them like with the permanent type. Cheers!
my friendLy repair Luthiers from the 1980s were aLL gone from 48th st. NYC by 1993. tony visconti told me to take this job to Peekamoose repair on 46th St. they had resurrected his Zemaitis acoustic guitar back in 1990 . they fixed the yamaha-ha without using the JLD gizmo . Peekamoose was convinced the gizmo would prevent the guitar top from resonating . they did a great job and i gifted successfuLLy .
Enjoy your videos. I though they made one with string pins that lock in permanently and have holes in them to make it like a pinless bridge.One of the is threaded to lock into the device over the d or g string. Anyhow, thanks.
well make no mistake, it's a damper on the guitar top. I think it's a good fix for inexpensive guitars that could avoid other associated repairs...but that then begs the question...
In honour of Redondo Beach, California! The owner must have been a surfer DUDE! Knarly man! Another masterpiece from Dave the Music Machine Mender. Hmmmm... 3 M, like your plastic tape! Go Dave!!
Great video, for sure............moisturize the the guitar body to remove the belly, remove and reglue bridge, polish the top.....that's my vote. Loved this video!
Over moisturizing can add a belly. It happened to my Collings one winter because of over humidifying. I had it in a Calton case with an in case humidifier and in a small humidified room kept at 50% humidity. The string action was nearly a 1/2" high and the top looked pregnant. I called the Collings shop and was told to leave it uncased in a dry unhumidified room for a couple weeks. It took 3 weeks to take the belly out and get the string action back to normal.
would be keen to know how that big lump of wood hanging off the bridge/soundboard affects the sound - when you think of how Martin/etc shave scallops in braces to reduce weight and allow more movement, this has to have a dampening effect on the vibration? still, it's a neat idea of how to wrench a bridge around and lower a bulge PS: I notice I watched this 3 years to the day... not that anyone will find that of interest
I've played guitars with these for over around 10 years. It is a different tone. I felt it loses some of the complex harmonics vintage Martin style guitars have with their light builds. It has a more slightly compressed "piano" like tone.
I have a 1969 great (Japanese copy of a) Martin 000 model with a JLD Bridge Doctor installed. It is my finest sounding acoustic guitar. Well balanced, with somewhat protruding bass and well-defined mids and highs. I think the idea behind it is rational, and genius. It transfers the vibration of the top to the rest of the body. It is similar to the idea behind ALL stringed instruments, from violins to double basses - they all have a connection between the top and the back of the instrument, called a 'sound post'. Ask any violist you know about it, and they will not exaggarate its value. It is a shame that your attitude toward this device is obviously negative from the get go. If this particular guitar you provided with the JLD system still has a high action after installing it, there may be multiple problems with that guitar. It does not disqualify the JLD system in the least. You fail to recognize just that.
I saw that the device was from Roswell. Do you think it was left by a guitar playing alien?. Hence the unnecessary complexity and strange instructions?
Adding mass to the top and coupling the top to the tail block must kill the volume, tone and sustain of the instrument. This is a quick fix for the problem, but certainly not the best if you care at all about how an instrument sounds. Pretty sure Dave knows this. I gotta thank Dave for sharing his knowledge in his videos. He shares information which has been invaluable to me in keeping my pile of guitars playing and sounding their best. Thanks man.
I haven't done my guitar yet, but have read that moisturizing, tensioning and then re-tensioning after 24 hours is the way to go. The dowel needs to be 90 degrees in relation to the tailpiece, which makes sense to me. So perhaps loosening and re-positioning and re-tensioning after 24 hours. There is also another model of the Bridge Doctor that does not require drilling, uses brass threaded pins instead.
Moisturizing and retensioning of the top will last at the most through the guitar's first shrink / swell cycle, then it's back to belly as usual. This moisturizing concept almost never last very long. The brass pin Bridge Dr. is a better gamble but you need to leave it in through several shrink / swell cycles to make it worth while. Problem is, the guitar is not usually very playable with that version of BD in it as the string break angle over the saddle is poor. I know you wrote this 7 months ago, but I hope your guitar is better by now.
guitartec I thought about the problem for a couple of months, ordered some parts ($14.00) and invented an ugly solution that fixes the deck bridge warping and (on this guitar) eliminated the need for a neck-reset. The action was almost 3 US Quarters at the twelfth-fret, brought it back down to a single Quarter. I was getting some fret buzz on the high E string because I had sanded the bridge too low (in an earlier attempt), but this guitar has an adjustable bridge-saddle so I was able to bring the action back up. Looking for partners who want to explore further, not really suited for something like a Martin, but working great on my early 1970s pre-Ibanez -- brings the guitar back to it's factory settings with about 15 minutes worth of carpentry.
Thanks for your post. Been looking for more information on how long practically it may take to see differences and allow it to settle. The adding moisture also makes sense to slightly add some flex in the wood without it being too brittle as I adjust incrementally. I think that is really important for older guitars that have the original bracing that may be brittle, including the glues that can also be too dry over time and simply fail from stress and new forced flexing back to a more flat plane once again.
Dave I have a 57 martin d 28 that has a belly bulge bad enough that I've filed the string slots in the saddlebags far as I can without taking wood off the bridge do you think this might help also how much does it cost.
Thanks Dave, you do so much to help us out! After seeing your video, I realized I might be able to handle this repair, and it worked for less than $25. Because my F-307 is a low end guitar, the repair shop said it was not worth the labor costs to fix the top and bracing and re-glue the bridge saddle. Well guess what? Not only did the Bridge Doctor take the "belly" out, the thru-screw succeeded in pulling the tail end of the bridge saddle securely to the top again! After that, I was able to set the action back to just below 3/32" again. PLUS, THE ACOUSTIC SOUND QUALITY IS AMAZING- NO EFFECT WHAT SO EVER----GUITAR SOUNDS BETTER THAN EVER~Yippee!!! BTW, I did succeed in using the MOP dot to cover the screw head. Took some careful countersinking "trial and error", but came out A-okay.
in 1993 i bought a bareLy used yamaha-ha "foLk-you" guitar for about 40 USD . even with Low tension Martin siLk&steeL strings it had the dreaded beLLy-up diLemma. as the yamaha-ha was quite smaLL in aLL dimensions and i am a Long-fingered fender bass pLayer , i decided to fix it up as a gift for my doorman . i ordered one of these JLD gizmos from stew-mac. when it arrived i saw that it wouLd work, but i did not have the tooLs or skiLL to instaLL it.
why cant you just sit some wieght on the belly and when its flat its flat again its just gonna come back up sure but then you do it again esspecially with a vintage guitar
Hey Dave.... I thought Fenders used "solid spruce" for their acoustics because that material don't bend, (and its loud), so what is then if aint solid spruce?? Like the Xmas rope lights (led) in the guitar body - great idea. Couldn't you shave the bridge anyway without all this "nasty brace shit"?. Hey your neighbour has got into UTube....Kool Like the guitar though
i made my own bridge doctor from scraps,it works for my 1974 yamaha acoustic.and i saved £18.the funny part is that i didnt have a dowel to use ,so i used an old airsoft brass barrel instead.which is ironic because i swapped a broken airsoft gun for the guitar in the first place.haha.p.s. all the measurements are on the stewmac website.
Wrong, there is nothing wrong with the dot design. Had you used the brad point first as per instruction, then follow through with the clearance drill, ... you would then have your proper fit countersink that would allow the perfect fit. It is not "stupid" as you claim!
YES!!! Do follow the included instruction sheet, using first the "BRAD POINT" 1/4" bit, (do not drill through, only counter-bore), then use the smaller bit for the #6-32 machine screw. About all I can see that I might change would be to change out the C/S Head for a "Pan Head" screw. This because a C/S Head screw might have a tendency to split out the bridge along the grain line??
@BassPlayerBedwell The 12 string was given to me for nothing. It needs a neck reset and I don't want to spend the money it done, especially with the amount of belly up it has....not worth the money or effort.
That's what I thought too - by using a counter sink tool, which is cone shaped, the hole is larger at the surface than if the recommended drill bit size is used.
i think the doctor is definately OUT..but that dont mean the pharmacy is closed EH?..sorry abou that reading thing just keep banging away at and things will start to seem clear
every fender acoustic Ive played is set up like shit the strings seem to always to be an inch above the neck once you get past 12 fret.I own a breedlove and it works great but it is set up perfect to begin with. I think it would work great with most guitars just that one was fubar from the start
Why would you counter sink a hole for a pearloid cover? That's not how it's done. As far as the hit and miss review, well it never claims to fix a neck that needs a reset, that's a whole other can of worms. As you said, it did what it claims nothing more, nothing less.
I installed the JLD on my Yamaha FG-335. You can see before and after comparisons here: czcams.com/video/eUj_PCcAY1s/video.html (put in browser bar and pre-pend with w's to view)
Groundskeeper Carl fixes guitars, fucks up the screws and curses his stars. JLD - Just Like Dr. Seuss, Carl bellies guitars and flattens them toos. Down in the basement, thought no one would know, but that big bulging belly, she's starting to show. No more baby belly, so we'll call it a win, now stop screwing your guit, don't you know it's a sin?
Dude, your nut is way too tall look how high the strings are from the finger board at the nut. Trim that thing first then the bridge saddle next to get the action lower. Then you should have a great little player. Tell strawberry to wake up! LOL.
Your enthusiasm is infectious...
This is a good lesson on the importance of keeping a guitar in a stable environment.
I've used these several times and if done exactly as instructed it works perfectly every time.
Dave you are amazing! When I get up off the floor, & crying from my ass off here with that "from the directions it said, HAND DRILL, & your response was "I am, I'm using BOTH hands" while using a power drill........ I'll be able to watch the rest of the vid!!!!!!
I have used these several times with great results,Thanks for the video!
cont... Anyway . I put the permanent type JLD in my FG-335 Yamaha last August. I pulled the vertical part after screwed in towards the sound hole until the bridge was level (eye ball) with the side and locked down the spruce rod. NO problems, Killer tone, volume and sustain. From what I've read it takes about 3 days to "settle" after the installation and that was about right.
Great vids Dave!!
Cheers!
I made two of these from scrap and installed them on a couple misfit guitars that had no business being played as they were made in some Indonesian sweat shop of some sort. The first had a ladder bracing pattern on the top and putting strings on it made the bridge stand to attention at such an angle I thought it would pull of the top. No-name Br doctor came to the rescue, it is now my beach guitar and plays great. The second was a high school music class reject that was sitting in a closet and looked like someone turned it into an art class project with stickers and junk pasted to it. Nobody could play the thing due to bridge lift and finger killing action and it couldn't be tuned due to major lift off when strings were attached. Once again it pulled things down close enough to start doing a reasonable setup and is now used for music classes.
Thanks for being our guinea pig Dave. I've been fascinated by the JLD thiingy for quite some time. A buddy had one installed on his guitar and it worked wonderfully. But he got rid of the guitar before I could look it over to determine if it was a project I could undertake on one of mine.
I had actually considered just making my own. It certainly looks simple enough.
Best repair vids on the tube ! You make it fun not just another project . Keep yer stick on the ice ! Ta Dave !
Thanks Dave, I followed your method except I used a straight-sided bit to recess the pearl dot. My early '90s Ibanez AE40-DRS looks way less 'pregnant' now, with the normal action restored, after 2 weeks of gently 'tweeking' the Allen key. I was maybe luckier than you, but was very impressed with this gizmo. Another time, I'd make one tailored to the actual bridge-it's basic woodwork.
Well, the reason why the instructions advices to first drill a few mm hole with larger drill and then a hole for the screw was to have a snug fit for the inlay. Using the sinker was a bit off the idea. JLD worked wonderfully with my almost 50 years old guitar, very much surprised!
Most bridge doctors come with a pearl inlay to cover the screw, so the hole shouldn’t be countersunk with a tapered bit, but should be counter board with a flat bottom Forstner bit.
I liked it and follow your advice I have a cheap Conrad acoustic with a vintage pickup and I tell you looks like a Martin acoustic
great video i like your commentary its feels like we are old friends. keep the videos coming!
I was hoping you would try the guitar after installation, to see if sustain was improved
good night, this piece after it is installed, gives difference in the sound of the instrument?
I've put this gizmo in about all of my acoustics. On a real serious "belly" they say to nudge it down in stages over days or weeks, and they warn that some guitars have a natural built in belly that can't be forced down-- that was the case with my Epiphone Texan FT-79. But this system will indeed keep any further belly from happening. They also claim that the dowell rod transfers vibrations and seasons a guitar... they say, anyway.
That "dot" enlay was ment to go in a 1/4 inch countersink made with a brad drill bit. I went a tad too deep, so I mailed the dude in Roswell $10 and asked for some more dots. He mailed me 3 and it turns out that only 1 was needed to come up flush with the bridge.
whaqt have u noticed about the tone & sustain after u installed the jld?
@@miketaylor4993 i guardedly say it seems to help. but mostly it's an anti-belly device prolly
Dave your video was one of the main reasons I went ahead and ordered this (so thank you for that!).
Agree the instructions seem a little confusing because nobody quite tells you why there are two models of the 'Doctor' or why you need one or the other. I worked it out like you after several readings.
I also had to convert all measurements into mm. Advice to others considering this: draw this damn thing out on paper with accurate measurements FIRST. That way you can work out / rehearse as you go along. Make sure you know what EACH move means & why you're supposed to be doing it.
I did this on an Eko 12 string and the ONLY place I could drill the hole was by drilling out the rearmost of the three pop rivets holding that bridge in place. Scary! But I got the rivet out, leaving me a hole of a dimension to suit the rivet, not the Doctor. As it happens, that was ok.
Like you I just had to dive in and do it: drilling that hole was the most nerve-wracking part. The point is the guitar was unplayable before so I wasn't exactly going to ruin anything by doing this. Did the installation yesterday, have hung it up for a couple of weeks (waiting for new strings) and will see how it goes.
Thanks again Dave! Ref. the inlay dot - I lost it even though I sealed the damn packet straight after opening it and examining the parts first time. Mine is now filled with Das clay and covered in a plastic dome that covered the original rivet.
QUOTE:
Thanks again Dave! Ref. the inlay dot - I lost it even though I sealed the damn packet straight after opening it.
*SO DID I !* ☺ I thought for some time I might have swallowed it with my medication pills - but have since found it (for what it's worth) I probably won't use it.
I'm getting ready to install one. I'll comment when I'm done.
Used on of before on an old yamaha and it worked great!
One thing that should be mentioned. After installation and during tension rod adjustment and tightening, the guitar, at least in my case, started to pop and crack loudly as the top was being levelled. I believe this is normal, but it can be a little frightening if you're not prepared for this. BTW, results were excellent, Bravo Bridge Doctor !
Can the bride doctor be removed after a few years, will it stay on its own
Thanks for this video - I have to fit one of these too!
i installed 1 on my daion caribou which had the bridge lifting off the top as well as a bulge. it did a great job. i had the system that replaces the pins.
Thank you! I found a beautiful old Fender that had a huge, huge belly, and a bridge that was about to pull out. I had it all sanded, re-hide-glued and ready to go. This vid was extremely helpful for installing the JBL Bridge Doctor.
I'm still amazed that they don't have better instructions on their site (or a vid). But, hey, that's what the internet is for, right?
Just finished an install of one of these. Didn't help the string height; the guitar is straight now but the strings are still too high. I wish I could do a neck reset on a $100 Alvarez but I hear they are epoxied in. Guess I'll bring shave down the bridge 1/16th to fix it.
Just FYI, the MOP inlay fits just fine if you use the proper bit to drill instead of a countersink bit. I used a 1/4 forstner and it fits/looks perfect.
Hey Dave, I was wondering if the system would work on an acoustic bass. I have an old earthwood bass and would like to stabilize the top.
The brad point bit was sized for the pearl insert. I think a rosewood plug looks better though. This system gives inexpensive guitars a way to stay in the game longer, if the issue is belly bulge. And it's only designed to reduce belly bulge. If belly bulge is why your action is high, this product will help. But if it's in need of a neck reset, the bridge Dr wasn't meant to fix that, only belly bulge issue. Great video, I always enjoy them.
HEAT PRESS.this is junk fix and rarely works..waste of effort product
I have an 89s/90s Sigma (six string) with the EXACT same issue. Bulged up at the bridge and sunken at the neck.Shame. Great sounding guitar.
I've installed so many of these, I've begun making a much more robust version of it (the JLD patent has run out). The JLD is sold as a "Bridge System" for guitars that are being built with them incorporated into the design (ie. Breedlove's USA-made instruments) or as a "Bridge Doctor" to be retro-fitted into a guitar to flatten a bellied top. The neat thing is that it acts much like a sound post in a violin. The b&s are no longer just reflective and actually make the tone more complex, especially on cheaper instruments. You can feel the back vibrating in your gut more. Action and intonation issue cause by the bellying are cured permanently and it can save the expense of a neck reset. It's truly a wonderful device.
I think you will find that the difference between "System" and Doctor" is not whether fitted when built (or otherwise) but on the method used to attach to the guitar: Bridge Pin Hole for Doctor and drilled hole for System.
DelTangBrav Actually, in the past, JLD marketed both types both ways, but now they market both under "Bridge System" on their site. StewMac, on the other hand, markets both under "Bridge Doctor", And I've seen Music shops sell them as "Bridge Systems". I guess it's titled by the type of place selling it more than the reason for installing it or the model one installs.
guitartec
The one I received from StewMac just a few days ago (looks identical to the one in video), did differentiate between Doctor & System in the way I describe. As I mentioned (in another posting) the instructions are abysmal and as Dave says are conflicting. I too intend making a modification for other guitars the one supplied does not have sufficient spacing options to make it suitable for all guitars. Incidentally I looked up the initial design with a patent search - to discover that my envisaged modifications were in the original design. (All wood without the plastic post that the through bridge screw screws into).
Best Wishes (also) David
DelTangBrav Love to see yours when you're done. I started using them when they were adjustable. I still have a few that failed.
guitartec
The one I got is adjustable (three settings - same as the one in video) but they don't cater for two rows of bridge pins on a 12 string or a curved row of pins on many other guitars. I consider the main block should be made for the guitar it is to go on (or in☺) . I'm attempting, with padded weights, to reduce the bulge before fitting so it will have less work to do - and then to prevent any bulge reoccurring. Which wood would you recommend? (I'm thinking of using cedar for the dowel - and also of making that part square instead of round).
I have over thirty guitars and three of them could do with some help.
It would appear that even the JLD fails on many guitars - so home made ones can't all be expected to succeed.
I just bought a breedlove ac25/cm and it came with one of these preinstalled
These are standard equipment in the high-end Breedlove guitars.
Hey Davey, have you noticed an increase in the volume? I'm just interested as they marketed it mentioning that.
Dave, the "total fail" is your installation method. Do you normally use a reamer for inlay holes? Then why did you ream this hole? Duh! You can't blame the instructions for that screw up. The inlay piece used to cover the screw doesn't have a tapered edge. Hello? Further the JLD system is NOT designed to lower the action - just solve the bulge issue.
I put in my FG335 Yamaha!
I bought a Yamaha FG140 off eBay that the previous owner had put the brass pin type in. The saddle was cracked between the pin holes and epoxied. The repair was "OK" I guess and the seller included the brass type JLD thing with the guitar but removed from the guitar. I think it's reasonable to conclude that the brass pin type is what cracked the bridge since the pull is against the pin holes themselves as opposed to behind them like with the permanent type.
Cheers!
What would be useful is if the pack included the allan key. Great video.
If you drill the 1/4" hole to the correct depth the MOP dot would have fit in perfect hiding the screw. Great job though.
my friendLy repair Luthiers from the 1980s were aLL gone from 48th st. NYC by 1993.
tony visconti told me to take this job to Peekamoose repair on 46th St. they had resurrected his Zemaitis acoustic guitar back in 1990 . they fixed the yamaha-ha without using the JLD gizmo . Peekamoose was convinced the gizmo would prevent the guitar top from resonating . they did a great job and i gifted successfuLLy .
Enjoy your videos. I though they made one with string pins that lock in permanently and have holes in them to make it like a pinless bridge.One of the is threaded to lock into the device over the d or g string. Anyhow, thanks.
So this begs the question, if guitars were built with coordinator rods like banjos, could the sink be avoided or better adjusted?
well make no mistake, it's a damper on the guitar top. I think it's a good fix for inexpensive guitars that could avoid other associated repairs...but that then begs the question...
In honour of Redondo Beach, California! The owner must have been a surfer DUDE! Knarly man! Another masterpiece from Dave the Music Machine Mender. Hmmmm... 3 M, like your plastic tape! Go Dave!!
What is this "goof next door remix"?
Great video, for sure............moisturize the the guitar body to remove the belly, remove and reglue bridge, polish the top.....that's my vote. Loved this video!
Over moisturizing can add a belly. It happened to my Collings one winter because of over humidifying. I had it in a Calton case with an in case humidifier and in a small humidified room kept at 50% humidity. The string action was nearly a 1/2" high and the top looked pregnant. I called the Collings shop and was told to leave it uncased in a dry unhumidified room for a couple weeks. It took 3 weeks to take the belly out and get the string action back to normal.
would be keen to know how that big lump of wood hanging off the bridge/soundboard affects the sound - when you think of how Martin/etc shave scallops in braces to reduce weight and allow more movement, this has to have a dampening effect on the vibration?
still, it's a neat idea of how to wrench a bridge around and lower a bulge
PS: I notice I watched this 3 years to the day... not that anyone will find that of interest
I've played guitars with these for over around 10 years. It is a different tone. I felt it loses some of the complex harmonics vintage Martin style guitars have with their light builds. It has a more slightly compressed "piano" like tone.
Wow...I think this is what my 12 string guitar needs!
I have a 1969 great (Japanese copy of a) Martin 000 model with a JLD Bridge Doctor installed. It is my finest sounding acoustic guitar. Well balanced, with somewhat protruding bass and well-defined mids and highs.
I think the idea behind it is rational, and genius. It transfers the vibration of the top to the rest of the body. It is similar to the idea behind ALL stringed instruments, from violins to double basses - they all have a connection between the top and the back of the instrument, called a 'sound post'. Ask any violist you know about it, and they will not exaggarate its value.
It is a shame that your attitude toward this device is obviously negative from the get go. If this particular guitar you provided with the JLD system still has a high action after installing it, there may be multiple problems with that guitar. It does not disqualify the JLD system in the least. You fail to recognize just that.
I saw that the device was from Roswell. Do you think it was left by a guitar playing alien?. Hence the unnecessary complexity and strange instructions?
Kcuhc I bet the device works well on their planet due to the change in gravity.
crank and explode into bits, made me spit my coffee out LOL Rock on Dave
Adding mass to the top and coupling the top to the tail block must kill the volume, tone and sustain of the instrument. This is a quick fix for the problem, but certainly not the best if you care at all about how an instrument sounds. Pretty sure Dave knows this.
I gotta thank Dave for sharing his knowledge in his videos. He shares information which has been invaluable to me in keeping my pile of guitars playing and sounding their best. Thanks man.
i've wondered that myself, but breedlove installs them on all their guitars.
I wonder what would happen if you put it on an arch top guitar???? :-)
A calamity?
Breedlove acoustics come with this set up standard, and mine sounds great
I haven't done my guitar yet, but have read that moisturizing, tensioning and then re-tensioning after 24 hours is the way to go. The dowel needs to be 90 degrees in relation to the tailpiece, which makes sense to me. So perhaps loosening and re-positioning and re-tensioning after 24 hours.
There is also another model of the Bridge Doctor that does not require drilling, uses brass threaded pins instead.
Moisturizing and retensioning of the top will last at the most through the guitar's first shrink / swell cycle, then it's back to belly as usual. This moisturizing concept almost never last very long. The brass pin Bridge Dr. is a better gamble but you need to leave it in through several shrink / swell cycles to make it worth while. Problem is, the guitar is not usually very playable with that version of BD in it as the string break angle over the saddle is poor. I know you wrote this 7 months ago, but I hope your guitar is better by now.
guitartec I thought about the problem for a couple of months, ordered some parts ($14.00) and invented an ugly solution that fixes the deck bridge warping and (on this guitar) eliminated the need for a neck-reset.
The action was almost 3 US Quarters at the twelfth-fret, brought it back down to a single Quarter. I was getting some fret buzz on the high E string because I had sanded the bridge too low (in an earlier attempt), but this guitar has an adjustable bridge-saddle so I was able to bring the action back up.
Looking for partners who want to explore further, not really suited for something like a Martin, but working great on my early 1970s pre-Ibanez -- brings the guitar back to it's factory settings with about 15 minutes worth of carpentry.
Thanks for your post. Been looking for more information on how long practically it may take to see differences and allow it to settle. The adding moisture also makes sense to slightly add some flex in the wood without it being too brittle as I adjust incrementally. I think that is really important for older guitars that have the original bracing that may be brittle, including the glues that can also be too dry over time and simply fail from stress and new forced flexing back to a more flat plane once again.
Dave I have a 57 martin d 28 that has a belly bulge bad enough that I've filed the string slots in the saddlebags far as I can without taking wood off the bridge do you think this might help also how much does it cost.
Was looking at installing a Bridge Doctor on my 12 string....but I think the 12 string is gonna be firewood anyway
Thanks Dave, you do so much to help us out! After seeing your video, I realized I might be able to handle this repair, and it worked for less than $25. Because my F-307 is a low end guitar, the repair shop said it was not worth the labor costs to fix the top and bracing and re-glue the bridge saddle. Well guess what? Not only did the Bridge Doctor take the "belly" out, the thru-screw succeeded in pulling the tail end of the bridge saddle securely to the top again! After that, I was able to set the action back to just below 3/32" again. PLUS, THE ACOUSTIC SOUND QUALITY IS AMAZING- NO EFFECT WHAT SO EVER----GUITAR SOUNDS BETTER THAN EVER~Yippee!!! BTW, I did succeed in using the MOP dot to cover the screw head. Took some careful countersinking "trial and error", but came out A-okay.
in 1993 i bought a bareLy used yamaha-ha "foLk-you" guitar for about 40 USD .
even with Low tension Martin siLk&steeL strings it had the dreaded beLLy-up diLemma. as the yamaha-ha was quite smaLL in aLL dimensions and i am a Long-fingered fender bass pLayer , i decided to fix it up as a gift for my doorman . i ordered one of these JLD gizmos from stew-mac. when it arrived i saw that it wouLd work, but i did not have
the tooLs or skiLL to instaLL it.
@5:48, it's Dr. Steve Brule!
Love going back to this video .... it's...ahh...pic...ture...of...t...weed!...lol!
why cant you just sit some wieght on the belly and when its flat its flat again its just gonna come back up sure but then you do it again esspecially with a vintage guitar
You are a very funny Guy Dave .Has anyone ever told that you sound a bit like Hommer Simpson.
or if Homer and Bill Murray had a kid.
Should always check for a gopher before drilling. One might have got in the hole there on the front of the guitar.
I laughed so hard, my Molson M came out of my nose!!
Hey Dave....
I thought Fenders used "solid spruce" for their acoustics because that material don't bend, (and its loud), so what is then if aint solid spruce??
Like the Xmas rope lights (led) in the guitar body - great idea.
Couldn't you shave the bridge anyway without all this "nasty brace shit"?.
Hey your neighbour has got into UTube....Kool
Like the guitar though
Awesome dialog by Ray Ramano!
i made my own bridge doctor from scraps,it works for my 1974 yamaha acoustic.and i saved £18.the funny part is that i didnt have a dowel to use ,so i used an old airsoft brass barrel instead.which is ironic because i swapped a broken airsoft gun for the guitar in the first place.haha.p.s. all the measurements are on the stewmac website.
Wrong, there is nothing wrong with the dot design. Had you used the brad point first as per instruction, then follow through with the clearance drill, ... you would then have your proper fit countersink that would allow the perfect fit. It is not "stupid" as you claim!
YES!!! Do follow the included instruction sheet, using first the "BRAD POINT" 1/4" bit, (do not drill through, only counter-bore), then use the smaller bit for the #6-32 machine screw. About all I can see that I might change would be to change out the C/S Head for a "Pan Head" screw. This because a C/S Head screw might have a tendency to split out the bridge along the grain line??
Still, that dot is ugly, a rosewood or a black one would be better. Maybe cut the head off of a bridge pin and stick that on there.
Who knew that the golf course groundskeeper from the movie Caddyshack repaired guitars? Dave are you secretly Bill Murray?
Haha - "...I am. I'm using both of my hands."
good video - you showed all the mistakes !
Roswell new mexico... Hmm,, alien technology xD LoL xD Good video :)
RE: "The saddle was cracked between the pin holes"
Typo. I meant the bridge was cracked between the pin holes ;)
@BassPlayerBedwell The 12 string was given to me for nothing. It needs a neck reset and I don't want to spend the money it done, especially with the amount of belly up it has....not worth the money or effort.
lol that guitar has a mustache
Don't all dreadnoughts has a bit of a belly behind the bridge?
over time yes. Usually due to bad humidity and lack of care
@@DavesWorldofFunStuff I saw brand new Takamine guitars with a slight belly. Literally you can see it by using a straightedge just behind a bridge.
Wont have to shave the saddle as much.
.so,
a good DOCTOR @
If you actually follow the instructions, use the proper bit, the pearloid button does cover the screw.
That's what I thought too - by using a counter sink tool, which is cone shaped, the hole is larger at the surface than if the recommended drill bit size is used.
i think the doctor is definately OUT..but that dont mean the pharmacy is closed EH?..sorry abou that reading thing just keep banging away at and things will start to seem clear
I'd love to see you and Ben Shapiro have a discussion. I bet you could make his head explode.
@Digideus I think all the little 8 string fan boys have boycotted Dave after he worked on that last thing
every fender acoustic Ive played is set up like shit the strings seem to always to be an inch above the neck once you get past 12 fret.I own a breedlove and it works great but it is set up perfect to begin with. I think it would work great with most guitars just that one was fubar from the start
Does the doctor come with it's own anesthetist.?Looks painful...lol
I guess that's easier than ripping the whole fucking bridge off.
I just installed one. Thanks for the laugh. The instructions are the worst I've ever read.
Why would you counter sink a hole for a pearloid cover? That's not how it's done. As far as the hit and miss review, well it never claims to fix a neck that needs a reset, that's a whole other can of worms. As you said, it did what it claims nothing more, nothing less.
lol @ hand drilling
JLD - Just Lots of Drilling
and who knew chong worked on guitars :}
Don't use on an arch top Dave lol
I installed the JLD on my Yamaha FG-335. You can see before and after comparisons here: czcams.com/video/eUj_PCcAY1s/video.html (put in browser bar and pre-pend with w's to view)
Groundskeeper Carl fixes guitars, fucks up the screws and curses his stars.
JLD - Just Like Dr. Seuss, Carl bellies guitars and flattens them toos.
Down in the basement, thought no one would know, but that big bulging belly, she's starting to show.
No more baby belly, so we'll call it a win, now stop screwing your guit, don't you know it's a sin?
Dude, your nut is way too tall look how high the strings are from the finger board at the nut. Trim that thing first then the bridge saddle next to get the action lower. Then you should have a great little player. Tell strawberry to wake up! LOL.
hey.. can i fuck up a 8 string guitar with trem and send it to you to fix? ROFL!! :3
Jaundiced Luthiers Drinking.
No stop!! I can't look!!! >.
joke eh ya hoser!!!!
These are just for someone who cant afford the repair needed.
cool i might install that on my squire. that things a piece of shit, but hey, if it works it works. lol
I'm more of a bass man cause my guitar is cracked