Okay I'm back again everybody, listen up carefully. The reason my Kubota l3400 was stalling and running funny and dying, was because the air bleeder valve to the fuel line had come loose via vibration of the tractor. I started the tractor let it run for 30 seconds with the pitcock valve wide open, then I shut the air bleeder valve. Immediately the engine ran back up to normal and I've been brush hogging for the past half hour not even a glitch now. It was not the stop start solenoid in this case. Pass this knowledge on to 👉🏻••• make sure the freaking fuel line air bleeder valve is shut!!!••👈🏻💥 pass this knowledge on! I saw a CZcams video that pin pointed my engine running funny and stalling problem.
Just replaced the start stop solenoid today. Apparently that wasn't the problem with this tractor l3400. Ran for 10 minutes okay and then back to dying and stalling out. Creeped it backed into the garage. Now looks like I'm going to have to have Kubota come haul it to the shop. What else could it be is the injector pump failing fuel pump failing, what??? I'm sad. We have lots of brush hogging to do. And I've already delayed this 10 days. Paid $68 for this new solenoid. The original one is fine. All oils and filters everything's been changed, fuel filters, air filters too. So now it might be more serious. Oh boy oh boy.
L3400... Always ran fine in spite of not so great maintenance, a week ago my wife was operating it and it died like running out of diesel but with a half full tank. Tried the vent valve several times with intermittent success, it would start run up to governor a minute or two then die. Venting injectors did the same thing start, die, then stumble trying to start, I started to cooling the starter with a Hudson sprayer filled with water, it got toasty. Called the MotherShip and the service manager told me they'd had a rash of 'beetles' in fuel tanks, so I drained, removed and found a CLEAN tank, boy that was not easy. Bought fresh diesel and replaced filter housing, factory one was not that great anyway and replaced fuel lift pump, vent valve, and ALL the hoses (20 year old tractor), fan belt and the ignition switch, because it was intermittent in run position, found that accidentally. Still ran a minute or two and died...😑. My diesel mechanic BIL stepped in to help and suggested an electric lift pump, so I put on the electric lift pump and... same problem. Everyone I spoke with suggested air leak on suction side of the lift pump, so with the electric pump and a large clear coconut oil jar I rigged up a test bypassing everything. It ran a minute and died...😑. During this test I discovered copious amounts of air bleeding all three injectors but especially the #2 injector. That's when it freakin hit me, the #2 injector was at fault. Called the MotherShip and managed to get past the gate guard and talked to a mechanic, told him about the replaced parts, the fruitless "beetle' hunt, fresh fuel and then the testbed. I then told him about the inability to completely expel air, the bubbles out of #2 injector and the squirt of air I witnessed in the test jar from the vent hose after it would run and die. I asked is it an injector problem, he chuckled as if to signify 'give the man a cigar' and told me that the injector with the air bleed problem was the culprit, that a cold start would run till the injector got hot then it will stick open...🤔. So I ordered injectors that evening, but the next morning I thought about something my 'well digger' dad showed me on my first real job an a drilling rig. I pulled the tubing from the #2 injector, blew out the diesel with air nozzle then filled it with a syringe full of 'Marvel Mystery Oil'. The test rig still in use, I fired up the electric lift, opened the vent valve and let it run tilll the air quit showing, closed the valve, hit the starter and it fired off in a couple of revolutions. Started the countdown until it would usually die and it never died ran for ten minutes and I turned it off. It run perfectly and started on a partial revolution. I put it back together added a couple of ounces of 'Marvel Mystery Oil' in the fuel tank and could feel my dad's spirit patting me on the back telling me to put 'Marvel Mystery Oil' in every tankful. 🥲 I do miss him so much... What caused this is up for speculation but the half tank of diesel it was burning when it quit was what my son puts in his F250 7.3 and has a couple of bad ass additives which probably washed the lubricity out of the close tolerance injector piston, then the stiction ran the show with the heat expanded injector pintle sticking open.🤣 Hope this lonnnnng winded diatribe is useful to someone. Peace.😎
We have an L3200. After 20 minutes of running, mowing,. It started to sputter and would die out. So, started checking things, air intake filter, good, all oils and lubes are up to date. And has new fuel filter water separator. Everything looking great. The ground from the battery, good. I believe it is the servo, as you mentioned here. I'm going to take it out in this morning, and wondering if the Kubota shop can test it. Anyway, I suppose that this servo's function is just to keep the engine running, like a on-off switch? In other words, if I seal off the port, not duct tape LOL. I can make a steel piece custom and bolt it on. Then run a cable to the manual lever on /off. And then go brush hogging in the field, and see how it runs. If it runs normal, then I have found out what the problem is, being the worn out servo. But they are pricey. I can't afford a new one right now. But do you think it's okay to run it with my makeshift on off cable? You say that if something else is malfunctioning that the servo will shut my engine off? This is my step dad's tractor, and I'm just starting to learn about it, he is no mechanic. So I'm trying to catch up to save him from having it hauled to the shop. He's so goofy, he should actually not even be operating the damn thing. He has zero mechanics ability and he doesn't even do the typical maintenance like changing oils greasing grease fittings etc etc. The simple stuff he cannot do. So I'm trying to take over the situation to a certain degree. S*** he doesn't even have a mechanics manual with it. These Kubota dealers will rip you off every chance they get.
Sounds like you have it figured out well enough. The mechanic told me when the thing goes bad it looses it's ability to hold that rod retracted so the engine dies after running a while. I believe you can remove it make a plate bolt it up and go manual kill switch. Have not tried it let me know if it works feel free to post your vid of it here thanks.
@@tomthelandloardpma7683 found brand new one on line. Ordered it, under $70 free shipping. Had the tractor 12 years so if it's not the problem at least there's a new one in there and that slot is solved. In the meantime I might just cut that rod off the old one and use the main part to bolt back in as the plug. Good idea yo. And then I will wire a what you call it wire to the dashboard next to the switch so it's a quick on-off. But I believe if something may go wrong with the tractor sensors that it overrides the switch and shuts the engine down. Does this make sense? In other words it's safer to have the solenoid working rather than going manual?
Yes their are a bunch of kill switches one inside the dash on the left side one on the forward reverse foot pedal underneath one on the PTO one under the seat probably more I don't know of you can test each one with a volt ohm meter is time consuming one time I had a stick shove up and unplug a fuse box plug up front left side and I search out and tested the other kill switches first before I found that one.
Okay I'm back again everybody, listen up carefully. The reason my Kubota l3400 was stalling and running funny and dying, was because the air bleeder valve to the fuel line had come loose via vibration of the tractor. I started the tractor let it run for 30 seconds with the pitcock valve wide open, then I shut the air bleeder valve. Immediately the engine ran back up to normal and I've been brush hogging for the past half hour not even a glitch now. It was not the stop start solenoid in this case. Pass this knowledge on to 👉🏻••• make sure the freaking fuel line air bleeder valve is shut!!!••👈🏻💥 pass this knowledge on! I saw a CZcams video that pin pointed my engine running funny and stalling problem.
Nice good catch
Just replaced the start stop solenoid today. Apparently that wasn't the problem with this tractor l3400. Ran for 10 minutes okay and then back to dying and stalling out. Creeped it backed into the garage. Now looks like I'm going to have to have Kubota come haul it to the shop. What else could it be is the injector pump failing fuel pump failing, what??? I'm sad. We have lots of brush hogging to do. And I've already delayed this 10 days. Paid $68 for this new solenoid. The original one is fine. All oils and filters everything's been changed, fuel filters, air filters too. So now it might be more serious. Oh boy oh boy.
L3400...
Always ran fine in spite of not so great maintenance, a week ago my wife was operating it and it died like running out of diesel but with a half full tank.
Tried the vent valve several times with intermittent success, it would start run up to governor a minute or two then die.
Venting injectors did the same thing start, die, then stumble trying to start, I started to cooling the starter with a Hudson sprayer filled with water, it got toasty.
Called the MotherShip and the service manager told me they'd had a rash of 'beetles' in fuel tanks, so I drained, removed and found a CLEAN tank, boy that was not easy.
Bought fresh diesel and replaced filter housing, factory one was not that great anyway and replaced fuel lift pump, vent valve, and ALL the hoses (20 year old tractor), fan belt and the ignition switch, because it was intermittent in run position, found that accidentally.
Still ran a minute or two and died...😑.
My diesel mechanic BIL stepped in to help and suggested an electric lift pump, so I put on the electric lift pump and... same problem.
Everyone I spoke with suggested air leak on suction side of the lift pump, so with the electric pump and a large clear coconut oil jar I rigged up a test bypassing everything.
It ran a minute and died...😑.
During this test I discovered copious amounts of air bleeding all three injectors but especially the #2 injector.
That's when it freakin hit me, the #2 injector was at fault.
Called the MotherShip and managed to get past the gate guard and talked to a mechanic, told him about the replaced parts, the fruitless "beetle' hunt, fresh fuel and then the testbed.
I then told him about the inability to completely expel air, the bubbles out of #2 injector and the squirt of air I witnessed in the test jar from the vent hose after it would run and die.
I asked is it an injector problem, he chuckled as if to signify 'give the man a cigar' and told me that the injector with the air bleed problem was the culprit, that a cold start would run till the injector got hot then it will stick open...🤔.
So I ordered injectors that evening, but the next morning I thought about something my 'well digger' dad showed me on my first real job an a drilling rig.
I pulled the tubing from the #2 injector, blew out the diesel with air nozzle then filled it with a syringe full of 'Marvel Mystery Oil'.
The test rig still in use, I fired up the electric lift, opened the vent valve and let it run tilll the air quit showing, closed the valve, hit the starter and it fired off in a couple of revolutions.
Started the countdown until it would usually die and it never died ran for ten minutes and I turned it off.
It run perfectly and started on a partial revolution.
I put it back together added a couple of ounces of 'Marvel Mystery Oil' in the fuel tank and could feel my dad's spirit patting me on the back telling me to put 'Marvel Mystery Oil' in every tankful. 🥲 I do miss him so much...
What caused this is up for speculation but the half tank of diesel it was burning when it quit was what my son puts in his F250 7.3 and has a couple of bad ass additives which probably washed the lubricity out of the close tolerance injector piston, then the stiction ran the show with the heat expanded injector pintle sticking open.🤣
Hope this lonnnnng winded diatribe is useful to someone.
Peace.😎
We have an L3200. After 20 minutes of running, mowing,. It started to sputter and would die out. So, started checking things, air intake filter, good, all oils and lubes are up to date. And has new fuel filter water separator. Everything looking great. The ground from the battery, good. I believe it is the servo, as you mentioned here. I'm going to take it out in this morning, and wondering if the Kubota shop can test it. Anyway, I suppose that this servo's function is just to keep the engine running, like a on-off switch? In other words, if I seal off the port, not duct tape LOL. I can make a steel piece custom and bolt it on. Then run a cable to the manual lever on /off. And then go brush hogging in the field, and see how it runs. If it runs normal, then I have found out what the problem is, being the worn out servo. But they are pricey. I can't afford a new one right now. But do you think it's okay to run it with my makeshift on off cable? You say that if something else is malfunctioning that the servo will shut my engine off? This is my step dad's tractor, and I'm just starting to learn about it, he is no mechanic. So I'm trying to catch up to save him from having it hauled to the shop. He's so goofy, he should actually not even be operating the damn thing. He has zero mechanics ability and he doesn't even do the typical maintenance like changing oils greasing grease fittings etc etc. The simple stuff he cannot do. So I'm trying to take over the situation to a certain degree. S*** he doesn't even have a mechanics manual with it. These Kubota dealers will rip you off every chance they get.
Sounds like you have it figured out well enough. The mechanic told me when the thing goes bad it looses it's ability to hold that rod retracted so the engine dies after running a while. I believe you can remove it make a plate bolt it up and go manual kill switch. Have not tried it let me know if it works feel free to post your vid of it here thanks.
@@tomthelandloardpma7683 found brand new one on line. Ordered it, under $70 free shipping. Had the tractor 12 years so if it's not the problem at least there's a new one in there and that slot is solved. In the meantime I might just cut that rod off the old one and use the main part to bolt back in as the plug. Good idea yo. And then I will wire a what you call it wire to the dashboard next to the switch so it's a quick on-off. But I believe if something may go wrong with the tractor sensors that it overrides the switch and shuts the engine down. Does this make sense? In other words it's safer to have the solenoid working rather than going manual?
Yes their are a bunch of kill switches one inside the dash on the left side one on the forward reverse foot pedal underneath one on the PTO one under the seat probably more I don't know of you can test each one with a volt ohm meter is time consuming one time I had a stick shove up and unplug a fuse box plug up front left side and I search out and tested the other kill switches first before I found that one.