The one thing this video doesn't mention that I screwed up (and that AVIVX's video does mention) is pushing the BNC connector down hard enough until you feel the snap of the pin seating. Otherwise the pin won't extend far enough for as solid of contact as desired with the mating connector.
When we view some of these Do it yourself" videos, some of the contributors tend to go off the deep end, showing you their "shacks," listening to them talk to their barking dogs, and musings about their personal lives, all the while they are supposed to be "teaching" us something, like putting a connector on a wire. Your video was excellent: to the point, no unnecessary commentary, and detailed instructions. Even thought I wasn't in the market for such instruction, I found myself watching it to the end, just in case I may need it someday! Good job! Thanks!
I learned how to do that about 35 years ago, putting BNC connectors on RG-58 style coax for "thin" Ethernet. The steps you showed matched up almost exactly with how I did it. I could not agree more on your point that you need to match the connector to the cable and then the tools to the connector. I had to work with Belden 8997 cable (I think it was) which was for air plenum use, basically almost like Teflon, no smoke during a fire. It was new enough that I had to use one crimp tool for the center pin and another for the outer crimp ferrule. Regular coax could use the same center pin tool but yet another for the ferrule. Nicely done video overall, just enough details, long enough without being too long. Take care, Sir!
We've been buying needlessly expensive BNC cables in my lab for years and of course they are never quite the length you want. I was happy to see your tutorial because I've learned so much from your other videos. Now I feel like an idiot for never making my own sooner...
Hey Alan - another great video. Just a couple of comments from someone who has done thousands of BNC crimps. Firstly, to get the best result, you need to have the correct crimp tool - not just a good quality one, but the correct one. Secondly, the purpose of the hole in the side of the centre pin is so you can see the end of the centre core. It is not a solder hole and I don't recommend you solder the centre pin. Thirdly, as Axel mentions below, with some manufacturers, the centre pin "clicks" into place. Fourthly, some people tend to double-crimp the shield. This is considered bad practice and is not recommended. Recommended practice is to crimp once hard up against the connector body. This allows the open end to flare - which provides strain relief and catches the coloured boot (if fitted). Which leads me to the last point - you can buy coloured plastic boots to fit over the larger crimp (in lieu of the heatshrink you mention). But again, you need to get the exact right boots for the connector and cable. If you are doing any significant quantity of crimped BNCs, then buy the connectors, boots and crimp tool from the same manufacturer. The manufacturer of choice used to be Greenpar, but they go brought up by Tyco (TE Connectivity) so you need to be careful you get the old Greenpar designs with the Greenpar crimp tool. HTH
+Robert Calk Jr. - If you have the correct crimp tool for the connector and the cable, there is no need to solder - crimping is quicker. The only reason you might want to solder is if you have the wrong crimp tool or out of specification cable. Professionally, this would be seen as a failure. Also, as mentioned below, you need to be careful with soldering as its easy to use too much solder and have the pin not click into the insulator properly. The BNC connector/cable combination has a characteristic impedance and excess solder may distort the dielectric insulator (affecting the impedance) and finally a solder joint has less flexibility and is more prone to stress fracture than a crimped joint. I concede that these are small points. HTH
+Smudger Dave OK, thanks. I'm just a hobbyist and always assumed that soldering was best anytime it's possible. I made my own leads for my DC power supply out of quality wire and crocs because the cheap leads that came with it melted when the power got up to around 4A. After crimping the crocs to the wires, I soldered them also thinking I would get better connections if the solder filled any air gaps within the connection. Do you experts think I was wasting my time worrying about soldering them?
+Robert Calk Jr. - No if you are not sure your crimp worked out perfectly then adding solder is good, provided you don't need flexibility at the junction between the wire and the terminal. Soldering is one tool in your armoury and is often not the best solution (for some combination of cost, time taken, reliability, quality statistics and capital investment). Not only is crimping better than solder, (done properly, natch); Insulation displacement is better; resistance welding (spot welding) is better; ultrasonic welding is better (under certain circumstances) and cage-clamping is better than solder. Spring-clamping is arguably better than solder providing the terminal design is good. The list goes on. In fact, soldering can be the cause of problems. Solder exhibits a mechanical phenomenon called "cold flow". If you tin the end of a wire with solder then clamp the tinned end under a screw in a screw terminal, over time the solder will move away from the high-pressure exerted by the point of the screw. After a few months, the screw will be loose and the connection unreliable.
Great educational video. I prefer soldering the the center pin, but you have to be quick, else the polyethylene expands and you won't be able to get it into the connector. I have had trouble with crimped center pins. They are OK initially, but after a few years the connection degrades from oxidation I suspect. I also use heat shrink as you mentioned, allot of bending at the shield crimp ferrule.
If you are having trouble with crimps, then you're either using the wrong tool die or the wrong connectors for the cable. A _properly_ done crimp has contact pressures exceeding 1000 tons per square inch, resulting in the bond becoming stronger over time as metal ions migrate between cable and pin/ferrule, resulting in a cold weld. Soldered connectors have a maximum lifespan of about 30 years (lead solder) and it's much less with lead free solder. These are both due to tin whisker growth (it happens with leaded solder, just not as quickly.
I bought a set of crimp BNC connectors and the tool, because I was so frustrated with the compression type, which I believe are better. I have since learned to terminate the compression type. I’m still glad I have both types now. I’ve been doing CCTV work for two years, as of this comment.
Very nice Alan. I like the crimp method. When I worked on 800 MHz trunk radio we were not allowed to crimp them on, all had to be soldered. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for crimping the center connector! There are a lot of videos from the CCTV guys on youtube who just leaves it hanging, without any crimping. On another note, I was always taught that the center pins without the tiny side-hole should be crimped, and the ones with the tiny side-hole should be soldered to the center conductor of the coax.
+NatureAndTech These were advertised as crimp-or-solder. The solder hole is at one end of the sleeve, so that there is a good solid area for crimping as well.
+w2aew I can see how soldering can lead to less loss in the longer term due to oxidation limitation. A proper solder joint with the eutectic dissolving into solution with the copper provides a high integrity bond with maximum contact for best conductance and lowest inductance. Matters of some value in mobile RF/UHF devices.
+NatureAndTech CCTV 'guys' can escape with a lot of 'losses' or leakage which would not be acceptable to power limited devices, especially mobile or medical (for EMI reasons).
This video is most excellent. Being a (newish) General level Ham operator, I'm experimenting with antennas, so this information comes in so very handy. I picked up all those tools, so I'm set to go - thank you!
Very clear and concise instructions on how to crimp on the connector. Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Now it's time to put into practice!
+maxsnts Oh yeah! The LAN party times where half the time was spent fixing the network, because someone brought a dodgy cable or broke one by rolling over it with the chair.
Another great demo as usual. I do have one suggestion. When crimping contacts onto small wires I find it preferable to place the contact in the tool and then insert the wire into the contact. I do this for all connector styles. The position of the contact in the tool is usually quite critical and can be varied enough to make a poor connection. I also want to point out that BNCs are readily available in both 50ohm & 75ohm impedance. I don't know of a way to distinguish between them visually so be careful when buying them because the seller might not know what they are selling. Coax is usually marked with an identifying number and sometimes the impedance so if the connector fits the coax it's likely the correct impedance.
Tip for the centre pin is to gently grip it in the tool and then put the centre core in and then crimp. As well you get a nice extra boot that you can use instead of the heatshrink, though it is good to slip a small piece of clear adhesive lined heatshrink tube over first, which then is used to hold a strip of paper laser or inkjet printed with a cable identifier. Or use larger cable markers, which slip over before crimping.
Alan - Having forgotten how many cables I've made up over the years I'd like to add one minor variation. When measuring to cut the braid I like to add a further 0.5 to 1 millimetre to allow for the loss in the bend of the braid round the inner ferrule depending on the actual design. It may not be much but I believe it makes for a better connection.
The thing I hate about crimps is that when you don't do them very often you almost have to relearn the process all over again (just like soldering them!). Coincidence seeing your video (great BTW!) as I just needed to put some crimps onto a run of LMR240 and LMR400 and really like the stiff wire trick to measure the length of the inner dielectric; silly me sitting there with a micrometer and trying to eyeball it! DXEngineering has some really nice coax prep tools that nicely strip the outer cover and minimize the chance of nicking the inner conductor. TNX Alan! 73 - Dino KL0S
If you don't already have one, you should consider setting up a Patreon account. Your videos have a lot of value to the EE community and I'm sure that some of us would support your continued good work.
+Chris Coulston Thanks Chris. I don't have a Patreon account yet - mainly because I don't think I'd have the time to create "special" content for Patreon supporters - and I'd think I'd feel obligated to do so. I'll consider it though, and certainly appreciate everyone's support!
Of the four video bloggers I support, only a modest amount of content is special for their Pateron. Guys like AppliedScience use their Pateron funds to buy new video equipment and he shows on Pateron. AeV buys tools which he proceeds to dismantle - I assume partially support by Pateron. Anyway, thanks for putting together really good content. I really like how you use overlay's on your diagrams - I might have to borrow that for my classes.
Thank you and kuro68000 said it for me, I really look forward to all your videos you have taught an old stockman, (cowboy) a lot about electronics, knowledge to me is not about power, it is about sharing, learning, and a essential requirement for the human brain.
Great video except for one very important thing. You did not mention the crimp die sizes. My crimper has six die sizes and It is supposed to be used for 58, 59 and 174 coax. I think I got the correct dies. I used 0.213" for the collar and and 0.068" for the center pin. I approached crimping the center pin a bit differently. I placed the pin in the jaws of the die and closed it enough to hold it in place then inserted the center wire and crimped the pin. It held tight and I didn't have to finagle the wire with the pin on the end into the crimping die.
The center pin typically used a 0.068" die, and the outer ferrule 0.213". But, always best to check the sizes recommended by the connector manufacturer.
When I solder the centre pin I first wet the wire with solder, then wet the hole of the centre pin from the back, grab it with some pliers, heat it from the back and slip it on the wire, while pulling the iron away. This way I don't get solder on the outside of the centre pin, because I'm only touching it with the iron form the back.
Thanx! From video: outer jacket, 20-25mm; shield length left: 7 mm (≈ connector ferrule length); insulator left: probe with a wire and bend (2m38s); central conductor: with pin over it, pin should touch insulator, cut small bits progressiveley. Voilà! Salutations du Québec!
That's an amazing video. Exactly as everybody said to the point and you have a nice voice, calm and explaining it in a great way. I did my cable in no time, following your video. I only have a suggestion: Can you put a text that says about the heat shrink in the beginning? I wish I have thought about it before I crimped my connector lol
+w2aew Nice video, I work in aerospace and do tons of these connectors on a regular basis. I would like to see you do a Triax TNC next, if you get some time. Triax can be tough, especially when doing the center pin. The connector I use the most is the Amphenol 31-2675-1, or the 31-8357-3. Thanks for posting this video, now I can show the new guys how to do BNC connectors.
Alan, per usual, timely and useful guide. Thanks! ..at the risk of being hyper-tangential, would you ever consider doing a video on measuring receiver sensitivity (db, s+n/n, etc.)? It would be very popular, I am certain. Thanks es 72, Bill, k6whp
Very nice tutorial. I would like to point out, You forgot to mention the center pin on those BNC's is captive and that the pin should click into place when inserting the coax into the connector. Once the pin is inserted you should not be able to pull the coax back out if you can then it's not installed all the way. Also an easier way to install the connector under the braid is to fan the braid by gripping the coax jacket just under the trim point, place the connector on the dielectric just above the braid and carefully rotate the dielectric in a circle by flexing the dielectric this will fan out the braid uniformly, much harder to explain than actually do. I like to use 4-1 adhesive lined heat shrink as a strain relief. I also add a tiny piece of thinner colored heat shrink over the thicker adhesive lined stuff on both ends for color coding. Makes it easier to quickly identify what test lead is attached to what device. For example on my bench red is always the input to sensitive test equipment such as spectrum analyzer inputs.. I always use green for outputs from signal generators, yellow is always DUT .... Anyhow you get the idea
+Dan Nelson Not all BNC connectors have the captive design on the center pin. The cheap connectors I picked up do not, for example. But, the higher quality ones do.
+w2aew "Not all BNC connectors have the captive design on the center pin" I didn't know that, All the BNC's I've used had captive center pins. I thought the purpose of the captive pin was to relieve the dielectric and center conductor of the insertion load. If the pin is not captive then the dielectric and center conductor take all the compressive force when connecting the BNC. Anyhow very nicely done video, thanks.
When I worked in cable I was taught to get that sleeve shoved into the metal area but I don't know shit about BNC connectors and I'm taking the time to learn about ham radio
if you're installing security cameras and using either RG59 or RG6 I think it's better using a compression tool rather than a crimping tool. a compression tool if far stronger and more accurate length
Alan: Can you consider doing a video about DIY cables being assessed using a VNA or perhaps an SA and compare clamp/solder/crimp style results over IoT/Wifi frequencies?
+w2aew Ok, I am getting into the IoT arena and tuning of impedance and antenna matching for optimum range using ESP8226 modules is going to become a focus. I recently got a calibrated HP8753D S parameter VNA and a professional SMA SOL cal kit from KirkBy Microwave. Soon some professional 26.5Ghz cables will arrive and I'd be in a position to explore the area. Perhaps I could contribute to your channel?
Good video. Lousy cheap low-grade RG58 with minimal braid cover. RG58 is not an official designation now, It used to be a Mil-Spec (JETDS) in the old days, but is no longer the case, so suppliers are not held to any sort of manufacturing standards.
Great vid my good friend. I'm learning new things every time. This vid will certainly come in very handy for future DIYs thanks for sharing. 👍oh by the way I just subscribed to your videos have a good one mate
Great Video! Very Helpful. Question: I found that the BNC center pin once inserted into the BNC connector clicks and locks in place and does not come out. After crimping the center pin and the ferrule and pulling to test the crimp everything seemed fine. On some of the crimps I have made I found that the ferrule did not crimp securely and pulling to test the BNC connection gave a false sense of security as it appears that the center pin prevented the BNC connector from detaching from the cable (since the center pin is also crimped to the core of the cable). I decided to do some more tests and crimped some ferrules (using an Xcelite ratcheting crimper) on the BNC connector (with no RG-58 cable / pin) and found that for some BNC connectors the ferrule just slides off after pulling slightly. I tried some unknown brands along with named brand Amphenol BNC with disappointing results. I found that I needed to adjust the tension dial to a higher tension on my crimp tool for the unknown brand BNC connector ferrule to crimp satisfactory to the BNC connector. Some other brands such as Provo BNC connectors had their ferrule crimped successfully at the lowest tension setting and seemed to be sturdy when pull testing by hand. I am curious, have you test crimped a ferrule directly on a BNC connector with no RG-58 cable / center pin and does the ferrule appear to be crimped securely when test pulling by hand? Did you need to adjust the tension setting (if available) on your tool?
If you can do it by not using proper tools to strip the wire, depends on how large of a bandwidth you need. Larger bandwidth has basically zero tolerance for errors when stripping the wire.
A#1 Workmanship...Thank you for this video! Question: I see various size and type cables being used in your videos, Which measurements/frequencies is RG-58 used for and not used for.
Hello, great video. I've two questions: -1 for Cb cable Is better of i weld the central pin? 2- how much do you adjust the power of the crimper for the two different crimps? Thank you
![[393] How to Crimp TNC Connector to Coaxial Cable - RG6/ RG8](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/7PdkSNLC2Ks/mqdefault.jpg)
The one thing this video doesn't mention that I screwed up (and that AVIVX's video does mention) is pushing the BNC connector down hard enough until you feel the snap of the pin seating. Otherwise the pin won't extend far enough for as solid of contact as desired with the mating connector.
Excellent point - I am going to pin this comment to the top so other viewers will see it.
Pin from the coaxial keeps breaking.. gotta be another way or I'm doing something wrong
When we view some of these Do it yourself" videos, some of the contributors tend to go off the deep end, showing you their "shacks," listening to them talk to their barking dogs, and musings about their personal lives, all the while they are supposed to be "teaching" us something, like putting a connector on a wire. Your video was excellent: to the point, no unnecessary commentary, and detailed instructions.
Even thought I wasn't in the market for such instruction, I found myself watching it to the end, just in case I may need it someday!
Good job!
Thanks!
I like that last add with the shrinking tube. I do this, and I think people working in the field of CCTV's should absolutely do this as a standard.
I learned how to do that about 35 years ago, putting BNC connectors on RG-58 style coax for "thin" Ethernet. The steps you showed matched up almost exactly with how I did it. I could not agree more on your point that you need to match the connector to the cable and then the tools to the connector. I had to work with Belden 8997 cable (I think it was) which was for air plenum use, basically almost like Teflon, no smoke during a fire. It was new enough that I had to use one crimp tool for the center pin and another for the outer crimp ferrule. Regular coax could use the same center pin tool but yet another for the ferrule.
Nicely done video overall, just enough details, long enough without being too long.
Take care, Sir!
We've been buying needlessly expensive BNC cables in my lab for years and of course they are never quite the length you want. I was happy to see your tutorial because I've learned so much from your other videos. Now I feel like an idiot for never making my own sooner...
Cheers to you for producing this vid. So simple to follow... my first time putting replacing a PL connector with a BNC went flawlessly.
Hey Alan - another great video. Just a couple of comments from someone who has done thousands of BNC crimps. Firstly, to get the best result, you need to have the correct crimp tool - not just a good quality one, but the correct one. Secondly, the purpose of the hole in the side of the centre pin is so you can see the end of the centre core. It is not a solder hole and I don't recommend you solder the centre pin. Thirdly, as Axel mentions below, with some manufacturers, the centre pin "clicks" into place. Fourthly, some people tend to double-crimp the shield. This is considered bad practice and is not recommended. Recommended practice is to crimp once hard up against the connector body. This allows the open end to flare - which provides strain relief and catches the coloured boot (if fitted). Which leads me to the last point - you can buy coloured plastic boots to fit over the larger crimp (in lieu of the heatshrink you mention). But again, you need to get the exact right boots for the connector and cable. If you are doing any significant quantity of crimped BNCs, then buy the connectors, boots and crimp tool from the same manufacturer. The manufacturer of choice used to be Greenpar, but they go brought up by Tyco (TE Connectivity) so you need to be careful you get the old Greenpar designs with the Greenpar crimp tool. HTH
+Smudger Dave Thank you for all of the great comments - it's always nice to get the voice of experience.
+Smudger Dave
Why do you recommend people not to solder the center pin? Thanks for the tips.
+Robert Calk Jr. - If you have the correct crimp tool for the connector and the cable, there is no need to solder - crimping is quicker. The only reason you might want to solder is if you have the wrong crimp tool or out of specification cable. Professionally, this would be seen as a failure. Also, as mentioned below, you need to be careful with soldering as its easy to use too much solder and have the pin not click into the insulator properly. The BNC connector/cable combination has a characteristic impedance and excess solder may distort the dielectric insulator (affecting the impedance) and finally a solder joint has less flexibility and is more prone to stress fracture than a crimped joint. I concede that these are small points. HTH
+Smudger Dave
OK, thanks. I'm just a hobbyist and always assumed that soldering was best anytime it's possible. I made my own leads for my DC power supply out of quality wire and crocs because the cheap leads that came with it melted when the power got up to around 4A. After crimping the crocs to the wires, I soldered them also thinking I would get better connections if the solder filled any air gaps within the connection.
Do you experts think I was wasting my time worrying about soldering them?
+Robert Calk Jr. - No if you are not sure your crimp worked out perfectly then adding solder is good, provided you don't need flexibility at the junction between the wire and the terminal.
Soldering is one tool in your armoury and is often not the best solution (for some combination of cost, time taken, reliability, quality statistics and capital investment).
Not only is crimping better than solder, (done properly, natch); Insulation displacement is better; resistance welding (spot welding) is better; ultrasonic welding is better (under certain circumstances) and cage-clamping is better than solder. Spring-clamping is arguably better than solder providing the terminal design is good. The list goes on.
In fact, soldering can be the cause of problems. Solder exhibits a mechanical phenomenon called "cold flow". If you tin the end of a wire with solder then clamp the tinned end under a screw in a screw terminal, over time the solder will move away from the high-pressure exerted by the point of the screw. After a few months, the screw will be loose and the connection unreliable.
Great educational video. I prefer soldering the the center pin, but you have to be quick, else the polyethylene expands and you won't be able to get it into the connector. I have had trouble with crimped center pins. They are OK initially, but after a few years the connection degrades from oxidation I suspect. I also use heat shrink as you mentioned, allot of bending at the shield crimp ferrule.
If you are having trouble with crimps, then you're either using the wrong tool die or the wrong connectors for the cable.
A _properly_ done crimp has contact pressures exceeding 1000 tons per square inch, resulting in the bond becoming stronger over time as metal ions migrate between cable and pin/ferrule, resulting in a cold weld.
Soldered connectors have a maximum lifespan of about 30 years (lead solder) and it's much less with lead free solder. These are both due to tin whisker growth (it happens with leaded solder, just not as quickly.
Crimper came in as I had unseated the last crimped connector. I pulled up your video and followed the instructions. Worked great!!! Thanks!!
Love your measuring tips, and how you trimmed the braid.
I bought a set of crimp BNC connectors and the tool, because I was so frustrated with the compression type, which I believe are better. I have since learned to terminate the compression type. I’m still glad I have both types now. I’ve been doing CCTV work for two years, as of this comment.
Very nice Alan. I like the crimp method. When I worked on 800 MHz trunk radio we were not allowed to crimp them on, all had to be soldered. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! Because of your video I was able to purchase the correct tools and parts to repair the RG58 cable to my wireless in ear monitoring system.
Really great, well shot and narrated video. Thank you very much.
+kuro68000 Thank you!
+w2aew - Except for the wife working in the background! LOL... ;-)
+ElmerFuddGun hehe, while watching the video I was figuring out what was happening in the background. No worries, the video was great!
Thanks for crimping the center connector! There are a lot of videos from the CCTV guys on youtube who just leaves it hanging, without any crimping.
On another note, I was always taught that the center pins without the tiny side-hole should be crimped, and the ones with the tiny side-hole should be soldered to the center conductor of the coax.
+NatureAndTech These were advertised as crimp-or-solder. The solder hole is at one end of the sleeve, so that there is a good solid area for crimping as well.
+w2aew I can see how soldering can lead to less loss in the longer term due to oxidation limitation. A proper solder joint with the eutectic dissolving into solution with the copper provides a high integrity bond with maximum contact for best conductance and lowest inductance. Matters of some value in mobile RF/UHF devices.
+NatureAndTech CCTV 'guys' can escape with a lot of 'losses' or leakage which would not be acceptable to power limited devices, especially mobile or medical (for EMI reasons).
Excellent Video. Thank You
One of the best instructional videos seen - including other topics. No baloney.
This video is most excellent. Being a (newish) General level Ham operator, I'm experimenting with antennas, so this information comes in so very handy. I picked up all those tools, so I'm set to go - thank you!
Now, this is nice, clear, complete and professional training. Bravo.
Very clear and concise instructions on how to crimp on the connector. Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Now it's time to put into practice!
Man this brings back memories!! I don't miss the pre-rj45 pc network days.
+maxsnts oh yes i remember my first pair of NICs in the late 80s NE2000 ....
+maxsnts Me to :)) I did around....... 30000 ends or something like this.
+Mike Herbst , ah yes the ISA BUS cards and the 'screw' on BNCs of which I still have a few!
+maxsnts
Oh yeah! The LAN party times where half the time was spent fixing the network, because someone brought a dodgy cable or broke one by rolling over it with the chair.
+superdau heh, I recall point to point gaming across a null modem cable and Warcraft 2, zug zug!
Another great demo as usual. I do have one suggestion. When crimping contacts onto small wires I find it preferable to place the contact in the tool and then insert the wire into the contact. I do this for all connector styles. The position of the contact in the tool is usually quite critical and can be varied enough to make a poor connection. I also want to point out that BNCs are readily available in both 50ohm & 75ohm impedance. I don't know of a way to distinguish between them visually so be careful when buying them because the seller might not know what they are selling. Coax is usually marked with an identifying number and sometimes the impedance so if the connector fits the coax it's likely the correct impedance.
Hello
Thanks for the explanation, you make it look easy
Tip for the centre pin is to gently grip it in the tool and then put the centre core in and then crimp.
As well you get a nice extra boot that you can use instead of the heatshrink, though it is good to slip a small piece of clear adhesive lined heatshrink tube over first, which then is used to hold a strip of paper laser or inkjet printed with a cable identifier. Or use larger cable markers, which slip over before crimping.
+SeanBZA Some very nice tips, thank you.
Alan - Having forgotten how many cables I've made up over the years I'd like to add one minor variation. When measuring to cut the braid I like to add a further 0.5 to 1 millimetre to allow for the loss in the bend of the braid round the inner ferrule depending on the actual design. It may not be much but I believe it makes for a better connection.
+Anon T Good tip.
The thing I hate about crimps is that when you don't do them very often you almost have to relearn the process all over again (just like soldering them!). Coincidence seeing your video (great BTW!) as I just needed to put some crimps onto a run of LMR240 and LMR400 and really like the stiff wire trick to measure the length of the inner dielectric; silly me sitting there with a micrometer and trying to eyeball it! DXEngineering has some really nice coax prep tools that nicely strip the outer cover and minimize the chance of nicking the inner conductor. TNX Alan! 73 - Dino KL0S
Thanks Dino. Good tip on DXengineering.
If you don't already have one, you should consider setting up a Patreon account. Your videos have a lot of value to the EE community and I'm sure that some of us would support your continued good work.
+Chris Coulston Thanks Chris. I don't have a Patreon account yet - mainly because I don't think I'd have the time to create "special" content for Patreon supporters - and I'd think I'd feel obligated to do so. I'll consider it though, and certainly appreciate everyone's support!
Of the four video bloggers I support, only a modest amount of content is special for their Pateron. Guys like AppliedScience use their Pateron funds to buy new video equipment and he shows on Pateron. AeV buys tools which he proceeds to dismantle - I assume partially support by Pateron.
Anyway, thanks for putting together really good content. I really like how you use overlay's on your diagrams - I might have to borrow that for my classes.
love soldering the center pin and heat shrink tube the crimp sleeve with light color so you can write on /label it
Thank you and kuro68000 said it for me, I really look forward to all your videos you have taught an old stockman, (cowboy) a lot about electronics, knowledge to me is not about power, it is about sharing, learning, and a essential requirement for the human brain.
Great video except for one very important thing. You did not mention the crimp die sizes. My crimper has six die sizes and It is supposed to be used for 58, 59 and 174 coax. I think I got the correct dies. I used 0.213" for the collar and and 0.068" for the center pin.
I approached crimping the center pin a bit differently. I placed the pin in the jaws of the die and closed it enough to hold it in place then inserted the center wire and crimped the pin. It held tight and I didn't have to finagle the wire with the pin on the end into the crimping die.
The center pin typically used a 0.068" die, and the outer ferrule 0.213". But, always best to check the sizes recommended by the connector manufacturer.
Big Thanks from Zach and Christan The big blind beer belly Johnson, We watched this at work and were victorious in our product. 5*
Very helpful! Thanks from Brazil!
Thanks this gave me the confidence to try it myself and it worked out great
I like how you put that together and have to remember this when working with the wires I have to put together.
When I solder the centre pin I first wet the wire with solder, then wet the hole of the centre pin from the back, grab it with some pliers, heat it from the back and slip it on the wire, while pulling the iron away. This way I don't get solder on the outside of the centre pin, because I'm only touching it with the iron form the back.
+Jack White That's a nice technique.
Thanx! From video: outer jacket, 20-25mm; shield length left: 7 mm (≈ connector ferrule length); insulator left: probe with a wire and bend (2m38s); central conductor: with pin over it, pin should touch insulator, cut small bits progressiveley. Voilà! Salutations du Québec!
Very easy and professionally explained. Many Thanks
Thank you for this. Definitely needed to learn how to do this since I have to replace ends for a home project I have!
Another useful and well presented video. Thanks Allen.
That's an amazing video. Exactly as everybody said to the point and you have a nice voice, calm and explaining it in a great way. I did my cable in no time, following your video. I only have a suggestion: Can you put a text that says about the heat shrink in the beginning? I wish I have thought about it before I crimped my connector lol
Excellent description, simple and precise.
Great concise video. Will be using this method for all my crimps. Very neat job
Well done Alan! I have a crimping tool I've used for years but yours looks really good!
Thank you for this clear and to the point instructional video.
Good video. Bought some crimp connectors... don't know why, maybe because they are cheap. I hate crimp on connections.
Perfectly executed. Informative and entertaining. Thanks and take care.
Simple, straightforward, and informative. What is "the right size" die slot to use for the center pin and for the ferrule?
Excellent, thanks for sharing your knowledge!!!
Great video and easy instructions to follow. Thanks.
Best vid I found on this subject. Good job!
+w2aew Nice video, I work in aerospace and do tons of these connectors on a regular basis. I would like to see you do a Triax TNC next, if you get some time. Triax can be tough, especially when doing the center pin. The connector I use the most is the Amphenol 31-2675-1, or the 31-8357-3.
Thanks for posting this video, now I can show the new guys how to do BNC connectors.
the first part number you gave was for a CLAMP connector. I prefer a CLAMP any day over anything else.
love you alan for these awesome videos
Lots of great tips for installing connectors when you can't seem to find that data sheet!
Alan, per usual, timely and useful guide. Thanks!
..at the risk of being hyper-tangential, would you ever consider doing a video on measuring receiver sensitivity (db, s+n/n, etc.)? It would be very popular, I am certain.
Thanks es 72,
Bill, k6whp
Very nice tutorial. I would like to point out, You forgot to mention the center pin on those BNC's is captive and that the pin should click into place when inserting the coax into the connector. Once the pin is inserted you should not be able to pull the coax back out if you can then it's not installed all the way.
Also an easier way to install the connector under the braid is to fan the braid by gripping the coax jacket just under the trim point, place the connector on the dielectric just above the braid and carefully rotate the dielectric in a circle by flexing the dielectric this will fan out the braid uniformly, much harder to explain than actually do.
I like to use 4-1 adhesive lined heat shrink as a strain relief. I also add a tiny piece of thinner colored heat shrink over the thicker adhesive lined stuff on both ends for color coding. Makes it easier to quickly identify what test lead is attached to what device. For example on my bench red is always the input to sensitive test equipment such as spectrum analyzer inputs.. I always use green for outputs from signal generators, yellow is always DUT .... Anyhow you get the idea
+Dan Nelson Not all BNC connectors have the captive design on the center pin. The cheap connectors I picked up do not, for example. But, the higher quality ones do.
+w2aew "Not all BNC connectors have the captive design on the center pin"
I didn't know that, All the BNC's I've used had captive center pins. I thought the purpose of the captive pin was to relieve the dielectric and center conductor of the insertion load. If the pin is not captive then the dielectric and center conductor take all the compressive force when connecting the BNC.
Anyhow very nicely done video, thanks.
Thank you for your sharing, i learned new information on your video Wich woll help me a lot in my work
You saved me a lot of trial and error
When I worked in cable I was taught to get that sleeve shoved into the metal area but I don't know shit about BNC connectors and I'm taking the time to learn about ham radio
Thank you, Alan. Much appreciated.
Thanks a lot, your videos are of great help.
Very good wonderful work
Very good job sir
Thank you sir for your packaged information
You make this look easy... I am going to blame the cheap and nasty coax I have. Still practice makes perfect!
Really good video!
if you're installing security cameras and using either RG59 or RG6 I think it's better using a compression tool rather than a crimping tool. a compression tool if far stronger and more accurate length
When you push the cable with the pin into the main connector body, there should be s slight click as it locates.
It depends on the design/manufacturer of the connector - some of them click into place, some don't.
Thank you! Worked like a charm :)
Thanks, very easy to follow tutorial!
Oh please, please, show an N connector. One that requires the mother of all soldering irons.
Very informative to the point thank you
Thank you bro!
µRuler sighting! nice
+eumoria Do you know if you can still get these anywhere?
Alan: Can you consider doing a video about DIY cables being assessed using a VNA or perhaps an SA and compare clamp/solder/crimp style results over IoT/Wifi frequencies?
+Ancel UnfetteredOne I don't have a VNA (yet), but when I do....
+w2aew Ok, I am getting into the IoT arena and tuning of impedance and antenna matching for optimum range using ESP8226 modules is going to become a focus. I recently got a calibrated HP8753D S parameter VNA and a professional SMA SOL cal kit from KirkBy Microwave. Soon some professional 26.5Ghz cables will arrive and I'd be in a position to explore the area. Perhaps I could contribute to your channel?
Thanks, Alan. Very clear presentation.
Thanks! Great video and just what I needed.
Nicely done video
Thank you, you are great!
Thanks a lot for your details
Good video. Lousy cheap low-grade RG58 with minimal braid cover. RG58 is not an official designation now, It used to be a Mil-Spec (JETDS) in the old days, but is no longer the case, so suppliers are not held to any sort of manufacturing standards.
Sometimes you have to make do with what you have.
Thanks!
Cool stuff. Thanks!
Great video and nice work.
Great. Very helpful and well made video.
VERY NICE clear video and instructions, surprised you are using metric though .!
Thanks this video helped me out a lot!
Lots of thanks.
Great video!
I like to solder the center pin
Great vid my good friend. I'm learning new things every time. This vid will certainly come in very handy for future DIYs thanks for sharing. 👍oh by the way I just subscribed to your videos have a good one mate
Great Video! Very Helpful. Question: I found that the BNC center pin once inserted into the BNC connector clicks and locks in place and does not come out. After crimping the center pin and the ferrule and pulling to test the crimp everything seemed fine. On some of the crimps I have made I found that the ferrule did not crimp securely and pulling to test the BNC connection gave a false sense of security as it appears that the center pin prevented the BNC connector from detaching from the cable (since the center pin is also crimped to the core of the cable).
I decided to do some more tests and crimped some ferrules (using an Xcelite ratcheting crimper) on the BNC connector (with no RG-58 cable / pin) and found that for some BNC connectors the ferrule just slides off after pulling slightly. I tried some unknown brands along with named brand Amphenol BNC with disappointing results. I found that I needed to adjust the tension dial to a higher tension on my crimp tool for the unknown brand BNC connector ferrule to crimp satisfactory to the BNC connector. Some other brands such as Provo BNC connectors had their ferrule crimped successfully at the lowest tension setting and seemed to be sturdy when pull testing by hand.
I am curious, have you test crimped a ferrule directly on a BNC connector with no RG-58 cable / center pin and does the ferrule appear to be crimped securely when test pulling by hand? Did you need to adjust the tension setting (if available) on your tool?
Thank you very much, the video helped me a lot.
If you can do it by not using proper tools to strip the wire, depends on how large of a bandwidth you need.
Larger bandwidth has basically zero tolerance for errors when stripping the wire.
+Mtaalas True. But, you generally would use BNC cables/connectors above a few GHz anyway.
A#1 Workmanship...Thank you for this video!
Question: I see various size and type cables being used in your videos, Which measurements/frequencies is RG-58 used for and not used for.
+Tony T. Most of my cables are RG-58, which is generally OK for non-critical work to a few GHz.
+w2aew Thank You for the reply!
+w2aew Hi Alan: what's non critical mean? Homebrew?
+Ancel UnfetteredOne Yeah, homebrew, hobby level stuff, where a bit of attenuation, limited frequency range, etc. wouldn't really be noticed.
Thank you very much.
Great video. Thanks.
fine job
Useful video 👍 Excellent 👍
Cheers - nice and clear - keep lucky and safe :)
The center pin on that connector is NOT a crimp pin, it is a solder pin as identified by the hold in the pin.
The manufacturer claims in their description that the center pin can be crimped or soldered.
Hello, great video. I've two questions: -1 for Cb cable Is better of i weld the central pin?
2- how much do you adjust the power of the crimper for the two different crimps?
Thank you
Soldering the center pin is usually better. No need to adjust the crisper when using the appropriate die set