Fixing a horse that won't go forward
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- čas přidán 26. 07. 2024
- The most common issue with group riding is having a horse stop suddenly in the middle of the trail.
In this video, I'll show you how to establish a "go forward" cue with your horse, giving your horse the signal to keep moving forward even when she wants to stop. Having a "go forward" cue is essential to having a steady horse on the trail.
This horse trainer is a LOVE and the horse is too! Look at the horse watching the trainer with his ears back and looking around at the man when puts the rope over the horse's back and pulls up around the horse's "barrel." It knows we are about to learn something and wants some luvees on his head. The end of the video emphasizes teaching with being "fair." Amazing what love pats and rubs can do!
Awesome! Can’t wait to try this with my gelding. Thank you for showing this!
Did it work ??
This helped me so much thank you! My horse was so stubborn I almost gave up on trying
Excellent advice, I see too many beginners immediately start with the whip to get their horse moving.
Very simple and respectful way to be a leader! Amazing!!! Thank you
Wonderful. Thank you.
I was defeated by my first ride with my 6 year old green mare I'm 13 and trained her from the ground up and she would not move forward I tried everything in the book except this and I'd almost given up hope and saw this video and it worked and I did this exercise religiously for 3 days straight and I got on my horse and she was wonderful she was even bending around corners she caught on very very quickly and I cannot think this person enough
Beautiful demonstration. I love to see just how easy it is when you know what your doing.. getting that timing for release was so hard for me. I still struggle with it and have to remind my self not to bully the horse.
I train horses myself. Great video. You explain things really well. I gave you a thumbs up.
Great video as opposed to the videos that I have found that start off punishing the horse.
I have a horse that I can’t for the life of me get to move forward and it’s the first horse that I’ve never been able to get to move forward, I’m definitely going to try this!
This will help me so much thank you, thank you!!!
This is good stuff! Thanks for showing this!
Like your style! Thanks!
Love this method!!!!
So, how to keep him walking? Every time when the pressure is removed, he stops. Thank you.
Nice, trying that ground work. thank you
Good teaching
Thank you. This is good
Thank you very much for this video :)) !!
Nice
what do i do if it still doesn’t work
I have just rescued a broodmare sent to slaughter. She is gentle and broke, but a long time from having been ridden. Her first 2 attempts to evaluate her under saddle, she just locks up and wont move. Before we attempt to ride her, we need to determine where she might be experiencing pain. Any suggests would be great! Shes a 16 year old "been there done that" horse that has been a momma for probably 8-10 years.
Can see this causing confusion when putting up cinch or girth?
Won't this confuse with the cinch?
I was going to ask the same thing...
I was going to ask the same thing as well
The cinch should never be too tight on the horse, so many of us were always tought to pull it as tight as possible, ive even see a girl put the strap over her shoulder and pull with her whole body weight! The horse can tell the difference in the tack and the rider, especially if theyre used to their tack before being rode
Would this encourage your horse to go forward when you are cinching them up? How would you avoid that?
Can someone tell me how I get my horse not to go backwards when I ask her to walk on
This is good to teach a horse to go forward but not to fix a horse that wont go forward. I have a horse that wont go, he will stop and then not go, whatever I do. He will only go on the trail, but in a training area he will stop and be like cemented to the ground. Ears pinned back. Sometimes he will try to relieve pressure by backing or going sideways but not forward. What to do then?
I have the same problem isn’t even responding to a crop if you find something let me know
look up balking. There are a few techniques you can do. I have the same problem. After a little time off, mine will plant herself in general or walk up to objects and freeze. Then threaten to rear if I add pressure. She had this issue years ago, then stopped after training. Well, she's back to doing it. Only in training area/arena, never on trail and ONLY at home and I chalk it up to barn sour/buddy sour issues. It's interesting. I've been looking at my timing, my technique, my consistency. A. do not over desensitize them to leg, don't nag on them. Ask assertively with calf, and then you have to act on it. I made the mistake of bumping nonstop waiting for a "change'...she could stand there 20 hours with me bumping her and not go. B. the hind end is the engine, we should strive to push them forward, not pull them. A crop, a string, your hand. C. When one thing doesn't work, try the opposite - mine quickly figures out what scares me or what behavior will make me stop asking, nip that in the bud by switching it up. D. So to be specific, if they won't go forward, back them, lots, rest, and ask again. This typically will make mine think twice about refusing to simply walk forward. If I don't have enough room, I will back her in circles. She's gonna have buns of steal, or at least that's what's in my head. At least you're sharpening another skill too. Another thing is yielding the hind end, push their hip side to side. Another thing, side pass side to side. Anything to move their feet when you ask them to move. As long as they are moving. I feel like walking forward is the least amount of energy spent for her -- so in comparison to side passing 20 feet, or backing 20 feet, or backing a circle 5 times -- oh yeah, the lightbulb goes on. Going forward at a walk then sounds pretty good. I would also say, choose your battles if you want to win the war. Us humans tend to want to get on them about one problem and go for 2 hours. Keep it short. A Olympic jumper used to say, whatever you can't fix in 50 min, leave it for tomorrow. I think it should actually be 20-30 min. Keep the emotions in check, focus on timing, ask, then tell, the second you feel a stall out, act on it, do not let it happen. Let it end on a good note!! I think this issue was entirely my creation. It's really frustrating. I was surprised to see it return. I'm also changing up her feed areas. Anything to change it up. She's had some funny responses, like galloping all over because I fed hay in a different area. But I think the the lightbulb is on -- she doesn't get to make all the decisions. I just want her with me, this isn't about control or disrespect. She just knows how to outsmart me at this point.
Last resort I tried and it worked is Monty Robert's trick. Quarter blinkers and a soft string. Oi. Yeah, I had to buy to get that lesson on his website, but it also works. You just need to be really careful with all of this. I would only do it with an already trained horse, but that just falls into a rut now and then (because of us, more than them). Not a green or spooky horse.
@@jeannedawg276 did you ever find a solution? I’m having the exact same problem! He doesn’t care at all about a crop.
Yea. This is one of the effective, easy and quick ways to do it. No bull sh*t like in most other videos.
I myself, do not use neither the rope nor the whip as they are completely unnecessary and those aids rob you the magic of horse-man communication through mutual feeling and understanding of each other. Nearly all the people in the videos that I've watched, think of their horse as a mineral alien. Horses are not machines, or robots. They are organic living sweet creatures full of love and in need of friendship and protection.
If anyone would like to know how I do it, please just send a like or a short comment and I will be only too glad to explain the hows and whys and the amassing results you can expect.
J Merlo im curious as my lease horse has started to pull the" I am not moving foward" trick and plants his feet lol
Hi sandra capobianco.- It is the same procedure as for refusal to jumping a small obstacle or climbing on to the trailer or walking through a gate. And it is the same whether you are on the ground or riding.
As soon as he stops, turn him back and away from that spot for a few meters and make him work: A couple of small circles and maybe a figure 8. Then walk him back to the problem spot. He should then walk through it without hesitation.
---If he does not, you will have to repeat the procedure 3 times, which is the number of repetitions it takes for a horse to learn anything. In this case, he is learning that refusing to follow your commands only means harder work somewhere else.If it takes you 5 repetitions, you are still within the normal. If it takes you 10 or 20 times, do not worry and do not lose your patience but observe yourself and your attitude instead because it means that you are learning the knack of it. :) Eventually, it will always work just fine.
Some hints:
- If you pull, a horse pulls back. If you push, he pushes back. That is why they are happy roping cattle or pulling a cart. It is also the reason why you have to teach them to "give in" to your aids.
- Never pull a green horse directly forward. In order to make him walk, always pull him sideways until he loses his balance, unlocks his knees, and takes the first one or two steps. Then you set the forward motion.
- The rope length between your hand and the horse's mouth should most always be about a meter long or a rein's length and keep it as slack as possible. Too short is stressful and annoying for the horse and too long lessens your control. Hold the rest of the rope length on your other had. (Ropes messing about on the ground are not only extremely dangerous, but they also speak very poorly about the elegance of horsemanship)
Finally.- I am noticing that people are too serious and stiff with their (beloved?) horse, as if horses were machines. However, they are but childish loving creatures who love playing, and being a little naughty too. Therefore, since the reality is that we are playing with our horse, it is only fair to take turns and let him play too. Instead of sweets, after training take him for short walks on the leash, let him explore under your protection and learn from him, for a change. He'll pay you back.
-- Good luck! --
This is an awake channel.
The horse does not need 'fixing'. It is a people problem. Don't blame the horse.
In this instance, I think the trainer is referring to fixing the issue. Otherwise, I totally agree with you! Almost every time a horse does something "wrong" there is a fault of the human involved without them even realizing it.
This video makes me want to bite the horse.
Very simple and respectful way to be a leader! Amazing!!! Thank you