273. How to test and find the safety switches Snapper RER
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- In this video I’m going to explain how to find test and install the safety switches on our Snappers. If you have any questions or comments please leave them in the description box below or send me an email. And as always work safely have fun. And keep on Snappen. Jim
Jim you are a blessing from God my friend. I love your channel so much, you’ve been a big help on all of your videos Sir! ✔️
That goes for me too! Thank you, Jim!
Thanks Jim! I am learning new things each session. My unit is a 1995 I think and 25 inch cut. So old I'm having to watch ALL you videos!
Jim, thanks for your advice on my snapper. I had one that would die intermittently. I thought it was safety switches but you directed me to wiring. you were right, of course. the brake cable was rubbing on the starter ground wire between the motor and seat. thanks again!
just a lucky guess. Did she have any other issues send me an email I’m always here. Jim
Jim, thank you so much for showing us how to repair our Snapper movers. Your videos with your explanations are very accurate and helpful. You shine. Richard
This channel has been very helpful for me. I recently was given two snapper rear engine riders that didn't run. I currently have both of them working with the videos on this channel.
Thanks for the content.
Well thanks for watching and I’m glad I could help you and you can help me by subscribing if you haven’t already. Jim
Great informative video Jim! Those $50 safety interlock devices have less than $2 worth of components in them. Crazy stupid mark-up from the same company that has held the patent for decades and makes them for every mower made. I've been trying to reverse engineer these for one of my mowers.
Post that info if you can determine how that works...Tnx....
Jim, this what I kept in my briefcase. When I retired, I thought you would enjoy something that was saved from our working days, just pass it on to you, Don
Did you work for Coca-Cola
16:30 "...and it is safe to start the machine." (!) THANK YOU - you supplied the missing piece of my puzzle. Was trying to figure out what the Interlock Module was for!
It's safety switches are: A) Pedal Switch, B) Deck Switch and C) Shifter Neutral Switch (my series 15 does not have this one.)
I don't know how it works but my theory is it gets some power from the Ignition Module (Coil) Kill Terminal.
I think my Interlock Module was starting to act up and finally I think it died (am in the process of debugging.)
If it is removed, there are still safety switches: A) Pedal Switch (same switch, it is double pole) and B) Seat Switch.
I’m not sure what machine you have, but typically if the interlock modem shorts out, the machine won’t start and all the safety switches shut down the machine. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 It's a 33" 331415kve w/Kohler CV14st-1490. There are 2 safety circuits: 1) for when you are riding and fall off and 2) when you are starting. Without question, that interlock module was acting up over the past few years. I like in the troubleshoot section of the Snapper manual says "replace or remove."
Well, I tell some of my viewers to remove the small wire coming out of the area where you’re starting solenoid is, and the interlock modem from the magneto shorting block on the side of the engine, but only for testing purposes to see if it the safety system causing the issue, but after solving the issue, re-hook the wire. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 On my Kohler Command 14hp, there is a 3-wire connector coming from under the cowl by the oil filter. 2 stator wires and the kill wire. When I discovered (no wiring diagram for ignition switch) it was a kill switch, I disconnected it and had spark. So great way to test ignition. Putting that back, I found it was the Interconnect Module which I removed. I don't need start interlocks. "Falling off seat" interlocks are independent and still in play - they are 2 separate systems.
RE: Interconnect Module: Somehow, it must get some kind of power from the Ignition Module (Coil) kill terminal (there is no other potential power source). I wish there was a schematic for the coil to understand what is in there. Kohler service manual has nothing.
RE: Snapper Service Manual: I'm looking for one but does one exist? I have the operator's manual, but doesn't have a wiring schematic. I found the schematic n Jack's Small Engines website.
@@NoferTrunions you can also go to Parts Tree.Com with your model number and they’ll have a schematic on their website for you. That’s where I find all the ones that I need. Jim
Jim the gift I sent to you was treasured item in the late 70’s and 80’s, Don.
Hey Don it’s Jim I got your package yesterday and where in the world did you ever find one of those I’m drinking Coke now cherry Coke Thanks a lot I’ll have to show it on my next video talk to you later let me know if everything’s working out OK. Jim
Thanks Jim for sharing your knowledge, much appreciated. Cheers Trevor Scotland UK
Scotland I don’t think I’ve ever got a picture from Scotland before have you sent me a picture of you sitting on your Snapper to put on my Wall of friends I would like that. You can send it to my email, which is
jimsfixitshop@gmail.Com Jim
Jim, I have the bad switch to you in the mail, should get it by Friday. Also there is a gift in the box. Thanks for your help over the years. Don
You don’t need to send gifts the only thing I ask from my Viewers is to please subscribe because it’s free and to send me a picture of them sitting on their snapper for my wall of friends. Jim
Great video! So many mysteries revealed. Thank you!
Z Worm
Well thanks for watching and I got to try to keep it interesting. Jim
Thanks for the new video Jim....
Thanks for your video Jim, I was able to fix my snapper safety switch.
Well thanks for watching and I hope you are a subscriber it’s free and it helps me out. Jim
Sure liked your video and I am your subscriber now
Thanks Because I surely need subscribers. Jim
You asked about where I worked, yes, and I have a lot of things that I bought for my own need or to pass onto someone as a gift, Don
Jim, thanks for taking the time to create these videos. My Snapper suddenly would not start. I pulled the plug and was getting no spark. I tested all of the safety switches and all of them had proper continuity. When I disconnect the wire from the shorting block, I got spark. The machine starts and runs fine with that wire disconnected. The key does not work to shut the engine off, and I don't want to run it without the safety switches. Where should I go from here? Thanks again!
Check the wires coming from the ignition switch where they come out of the steel tube underneath the seat a lot of times rubbing on the corner of the steel tube. It will cut through the wires and short them out another place. The wires can get shorted out is inside the tube with the clutch and brake cable rubbing on the wire, the wire should be in a black plastic tube to protect them, you may want to pull the wires out of the tube and make sure they’re OK. Let me know what you find out. Jim
@@jimjackson9381
Jim, I ran all new wires from the ignition switch to their proper connections. I still have no spark when the wire from the shorting block is connected. When I disconnect that wire, it starts. Could that wire coming from the shorting block be the problem?
@@Mike-ev4ly now this is for a test only unhook the wire coming from the area where you’re starting solenoid is that’s the main wire coming from your safety system and leave the wire hooked up coming from your ignition switch. There originally should be three wires hooked to your magneto shorting block, see if it starts and runs it does your problem is your safety system? Jim
@@jimjackson9381 I did as you said and everything with the ignition works as it should now that I've removed the safety system from the loop. I want to get those safeties working properly. I've tested each switch for continuity and they all work. Could it be the 'brains' of the interlock that all of the safety switches are wired through?
@@Mike-ev4ly yes it probably is that but they are expensive so before you buy one of them, check the wires to make sure they’re OK and check the plugs or the connectors that plug into the safety switches and make sure they’re not corroded and making good contact if everything looks OK I guess I would probably try a new interlock modem. Jim
Very very informative.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge..
Well thank you for watching it and I hope your subscriber it really helps me. Jim
Jim, if you will give an address to send the old brain switch I will send it to you to have one to test or what ever. You have been a great help to me over the years. Thanks, Don
My address is
Jim Jackson
2839 Henry St.
Muskegon, MI 49441
Thanks. Jim
My mother in-law purchased a used craftsman mower which is identical to your Snapper. I cleaned the carb and runs like a top. My issue is when I release the clutch the mower shuts down. The only safety switch I have not completely checked is the double switch (as I call it). The one under the back with four wires. Could this switch if bad be the culprit that shuts the engine off when I release the clutch/brake. Thanks
They do all that so you have to take to shop ☹️☹️ good luck on putting that machine DR SNAPPER 👍😁😀😄😃
I have a snapper re110 mower with the Briggs & Stratton 11.5 engine. I put a new seat switch in, deck safety switch. Engine starts fine but once you try to go and reverse or forward or engage the blades the engine stalls.
Well you still have an issue somewhere in your safety system if you’ve checked all the switches and all the wires for bad spots could be your interlock modem that’s the brains to the system. I can’t tell for sure unless I have the machine in front of me to run some tests on it. Jim
Hi Jim- My craftsman/snapper 12.5 hp is not starting and not sure if it's the safety switches or what- do you have to choke it in hot weather before starting- i had to use starting fluid the last 2 times to get it runnin- i am using 90 gas without the ethanol also- been fine- it's in perfect shape.... just been acting up the last 2 times- acts like no spark then finally pops and starts
greatinformation JIM
i finally gave up and none of the safety switches work now- but mower runs- only thing that works is key sw. i dont have any children around or grandkids so will have to be careful i guess seeing how brake and seat sw. are out of the picture now- thanks
Will do Jim, I'm determined. Thanks
Thank you very helpful 👍
mate great video
Jim- i cant get my snapper- craftsman 28" 12.5 hp briggs and stratton mower to start- replaced seat switch(awful) and cant locate the dual switch you are talking about on my diagram- 107.280340 mower = shows i have the module and 3 switches- but when i disconnect 3 wires on shorting block it starts- so not sure where this dual switch is or if its broken or not- i spray mower down occasionally to clean it maybe thinking switch got shorted out or something- very frustrating trying to repair this- replace seat switch tonight but when i get up mower does not shut off now- one wire on shorting block is disconnected so it will start and stay running- so im thinking whatever is connected to seat switch in series possibly is bad or shorted- any input on this or where abouts this dual sw. is?? thanks, mike
I just learned why my mower blade was turning with the engine!! I did not know about the foot parking brake. I stopped your video, and ran out to the mower. It has that foot brake, I pressed the brake pedal down and the lock lever over, and pulled the recoil start rope... the engine pulled right over and the pull rope retracted ,,,
Well regardless if you have the pedal down and locked or not when you start your machine the blade should not be spinning, start the engine and check to see if the blade is turning or not but be careful. Jim
Very helpful video Jim! Thanks. When I lift up on clutch/brake pedal, my snapper dies. Very weird as the mower has worked beautifully for years! Any ideas of what may be causing this to happen? Thanks, Chip
Check the safety switch on the yolk inside your rear case. If you stand up your machine it’ll be on the lower left-hand side. That’s typically the issue. Jim.
Awesome
where did you FIND the clught switch how to bypass it
I have an SR120 Snapper riding mower. I washed it lightly with a pressure washer today and now it still starts but as soon as I move the shifter lever off its sensor or try to engage the mower it dies. this particular mower is not equipt with a seat sensor and never was. wonder what would be the first place to look to find this electrical problem and its solution. it's in a nice dry place now and will try again in a hours and days but am thinking something actually changed and it's not just moisture causing the issue.. Any thoughts?
Well, I did see something got a little water in it and shorted it out and let it dry out good and it might be all right. Otherwise there is a safety switch on the more deck underneath the black cover and there is one underneath the rear case if you stand your machine up, it will be on the lower left-hand side as you’re looking at it usually has four wires going to it and it is activated by your yoke, if all them test good, it could be your interlock modem, which is the brains of the unit and they’re usually a little expensive. Jim.
My solenoid make the click but no voltage was going to the starter motor.
Jim, what about the safety switches on a snapper rider that is a manual start? I have one that does not seem to get fire to start.
Well, the pool start only machines would not have a switch in the seat unless you left it in gear. It should still have a switch on the more deck and it should still have a switch on the yolk inside of the rear case, I’m not sure how many eights it has. I’ve never worked on a manual start machine. Jim
Snapper RE110 - Was starting great - A week later would not start when turning the key, zero click or sounds of any kind -- Installed brand new battery - Same result - I assume the Solenoid could be bad as a next step of determining root cause - Any thoughts and/or guidance would be greatly appreciated - Thanks!
First off I would check the fuse that is in the area where you’re starting solenoid is, let me know what you find. Jim
Mine was mowing fine one day then the next time it wouldn’t start. Engine turned over but no spark so I unplug kill wire to coil and it had spark. I unplug seat switch and it started but dies when I let the clutch out. If it’s unplugged doesn’t it think someone is sitting on it?
@@robwright4398 if your machine is stalling when you let out the clutch, it’s probably the switch on your yoke. If you stand your machine up is down in the lower left-hand corner and it has wires hooked.
@@jimjackson9381okay you was right, I removed the one under the back of mower and it was covered with oil. Cleaned and blew with air then put it back in and now it’s working again. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
@@robwright4398 you’re welcome and thank you for watching. Subscribe and tell your friends.
Thanks for the information.
If I have a snapper that just won’t give me fire and I’ve replaced spark plug coil and wire what would that be most likely?
OK what do you wanna do and this is only for a test to see if your safety system is causing the issue, on the front of the engine behind the gas tank there is a control panel it’s where your throttle control Cable hooks to the engine on the lower corner towards the outside there is a stud that’s sticking out and typically has three wires hooked to it one wire goes up inside of the engine the other wire comes down from the ignition switch out of the tube and hooks to it the third wire comes from the compartment across from the battery that is the main control wire for your safety system take that wire off if the machine starts and runs then the issue is in your safety system somewhere it’s either a switch, bad wire or the control module itself. But this is only done as a test to eliminate the safety system or to tell you that is the issue this must be hooked back up before you start using the machine. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 thank you so much Sir
what causes my snapper mower engine to cut off when releaseing clutch pedal or engageing mower blades
Ck. your safety switchs the one on your yoke may be bad. Jim
cant seem to locate the brake switch on my snapper/craftsman? in the back somewhere?
Michael Gorton
If you stand up your machine it would be inside the rear case on the lower left-hand side it typically has four wires hooked to it some have two. Jim
Loved your video. I just got a M280919B 28 inch rear engine rider from a friend of mine. The mower is in great shape and starts fairly easy. However, when you put the mower in gear and release the clutch/brake, the mower dies out. Could it be the seat switch, the pedal switch or something else? I'm kinda new to this but I'm willing to give it a try. Thanks!
It’s either the switch on your yoke underneath the machine in the rear case or it’s your interlock modem that controls the whole safety system. Jim
My 28 in snapper has a rough running motor when you let the clutch out, push the clutch back down and the motor runs great. The mower starts just fine, just bad when you let the clutch out. I hope you can help me. Thanks, Don
It sounds like you got a safety switch that’s acting up I had another viewer that had that issue when he let out the clutch the machine would go for about 5 to 7 feet and it would start to stall if he push the clutch in quick it would start running again and he’d Would let out the clutch and it would do the same thing come to find out his safety switch in his seat was corroded and causing the problem. Jim
Jim thanks for your reply, the problem was not the seat switch, but the brain unit under the seat /gear shifter area. Swapped that with a neighbor mower and mine was just fine. Thanks, Don
Yes that sounds about right they are the most expensive piece of the whole safety system and that’s typically the last thing I tell somebody to buy and replace. Jim
Jim, no fire at plug. All safety switches tested good. pulled master switch out and looked good. pulled ground off coil and had fire to plug. Put back on and no fire. Where do I go from here on my 17 h.p. Snapper?
it sounds like it’s your master. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 did u ever figure out how to test the master switch?
@@jerryorton2566 You’re referring to a master switch are you talking about the module that controls the safety system if so there’s no way that I know of to check it outside of just putting a new one on and seeing if it makes it work. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 Replaced the module and still no fire. I can pull the wire to the carb bowl and it will crank and run but have to pull spark plug off to stop. Finally gave up and took it to Ace Hardware lawnmower shop.
Linkage cable effects clutch safety switch position. How do I adjust?
To just your clutch or brake cable you have to move the ferrules on the cable to the backside of the panel which will make the cables shorter if you need any further assistance please let me know. Jim
would a 12.5 HP be enough for a 33 inch mower deck?
It should be yes, I have an older one with a 10 horse that seems to do just fine. Jim
Hello there I have a snapper change a new starter and new battery check fuse check all connections when key turns on I heard the click but won’t start any recommendations?
Check the starting solenoid. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 thanks I fix it that’s what it was 👍👍👍
Jim this is Ron Thanks for the reply I have not located the magneto wire could you help one more time ?
Ron Wilson The wire going to your coil too short it out will be hooked to your magneto shorting block and it will go up inside of your engine otherwise take your recoil cover off and remove the wire directly from the coil. Jim
I've got a question for you do those snappers have a ignition relay box
Not I know of. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 of course
I'm having an issue with the dual switch on the brake/clutch near the yoke. With the mower running, I lock the brake pedal down and get off the mower. When I go to empty the bagger, sometimes the mower will shut off. I assume it is the movement at the back of the mower causing the switch to move. I check to see if the switch is firmly seated and find a lot of play. The tabs are engaged. Have you seen this before and do you have a method to tighten the switch in the socket?
carla1492
The little spring steel piece on your yoke that activates your switch bend it a little bit so it pushes harder on the switch sometimes they lose their tension and that’s what happens. Jim
Engine starts on mine, try to engage blades and engine dies, even with brake on trans in neutral. Blades off, trans in neutral, when I let the brake pedal up engine dies. It was running with the seat switch taped down. Even tried jumper the seat switch to see if that was the cause of engine stopping but no joy.
It sounds like your Yolk switch is either out of adjustment or it’s not working check that. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 thanks.
On my Snapper, (17.5 hp Intek) engine starts but when I release the brake, engine dies. Seat switch?
Noah sounds more like the safety switch on your yoke. Stand your machine up. It’ll be on the lower left-hand side with four wires.
@@jimjackson9381 Got it. Thanks! Yes, I pulled the switch out, plugged it back together and taped the plunger closed, to fool the electrical system that the brake was still set. Engine ran with brake released. Ordered replacement switch and will reinstall.
Where does the battery ground cable attack to. Is it supposed to attach somewhere on the frame or like mine on the motor mounting bolt?
The ground cable from the battery typically goes underneath one of the nuts that hold the engine to the frame. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 gotcha that's where mine is at. I wasn't sure , thanks for the fast reply
Where is the main integrated switch for a model 7800951 snapper rear engine
If you’re talking about the interlock modem that controls entire safety system that is in the same area where your starting solenoid is on the opposite side of your machine from the battery. Jim.
Here’s a head scratcher…my 2001 RER has been running good, so today, I back it off my trailer, I engaged the blade but I didn’t have the motor up to speed and it died… now it won’t start back up!!! What??? I’ve checked all the obvious things… idk 🤷🏼♂️ any ideas? Why it would die and not crank back up?
Did you check the key in the fly wheel, maybe it lost time. Jim
Hi , thanks for your video .
Question, how can I start my Snapper without a deck?
You’ll have to disconnect the switch that goes to the deck if it has one and try to start the machine if it will not start and Twista two wires together and put away or not on it and see if that will make it start. Let me know. Jim
Hello Jim, I am trying to learn myself a new hobby working with small engines. I have been watching your videos as instruction but now I am stumped. I have a Snapper (Model 7800647) that has been sitting for some years. I cleaned the gas tank and spark plug and changed the oil. After an hour or so off trying I finally got it started. It was running a little rough so I jumped off into rebuilding the carb (failed) ended up having to buy a new car. I couldnt get it started again. I replaced the wiring for the ignition kill switch because of some rubbing. I am stumped and need assistance. Any pointer or direction you could give? Thanks
Try removing all of the wires off of the magneto shorting block and see if it will start
@@jimjackson9381 including the kill wire to the magneto?
Grant Crabill
Yes including the Kill wire if it does start then just touch the kill wire anywhere on the ground in the engine will quit. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 Thank you. I will update this evening with results.
@@jimjackson9381 I have disconnected all wires, still no start. Going to watch the video of testing the magneto
It was buzzing when you checked the solenoid.
The solenoid does not buzz, all you here is it Will make a clicking noise when it turns on and off. Jim
Is the mower supposed to run with clutch pushed in but not sitting on the seat? Mine is running with the seat safety switch disconnected but dies the second I let the clutch out.
Your machine will run with the clutch pushed in and the lock lever slid over the clutch pedal, if it dies as soon as you let out the clutch it’s probably the switch on the yoke causing the issue. Jim
Jim, thanks for the help. I can’t believe what ended up fixing it. I unplugged the interlock brain and left it out and cut the wiring to the seat switch. This lets the mower start and run no matter what. If I try to attach the seat switch wires together to bypass the seat switch or leave the interlock plugged in it won’t stay running. Very strange to me. Anyway thanks again.
Hello Jim, to test the solenoid, that is still mounted to my mower, do I need to disconnect the wires first ? Obviously I need access to the lug that I touch to test, but what about the rest. Thanks !
First thing you want to do is take a jumper cable and hook it to your positive side of your battery and touch it on the lug, sticking out of the side of your starter and check to see if your starter is even working, if that works take a number 14 wire and jump it from the large lug on the solenoid to the small speed connector that your ignition key wire hooks to that should make the solenoid connect and send power to the starter. Make sure the machines in neutral first. That should tell you if your solenoid is working try that and let me know what it’s doing. Jim.
@@jimjackson9381 I didn't run the steps regarding the starter and ignition switch Jim, as I only manually start the mower. Since I don't have a battery for the mower I used my truck battery and tested the solenoid as you did in this video. The solenoid only clicks, each time I touch the lug. My tester never makes a sound.
@@wacmac1976 well every time you touch 12 V to the spade connector on the side of the solenoid. If it’s making a clicking sound, then it is working properly you need to check with a continuity tester from the big lug across to the other big lug and see if you have Continuity when you make the solenoid click, you’ll have to unhook the batteries all you don’t want power going through it. Let me know what it does. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 I held the solenoid base to my truck battery's negative post, touched the lug on top of the solenoid with a wire coming from the positive post and the solenoid clicked. At the same time I held my tester leads on the two threaded lugs and didn't get any sound/continuity. Did I do it correctly ?
@@wacmac1976 I would say yes your solenoid is working. That’s why it’s clicking. Put your contacts inside apparently are burned up. Just pick up a new one I get them at Lowe’s for about 14 bucks. Jim.
Snapper RE 210 33 inch mowing fine I stop pull handle to stop blade motor dyed won't restart turns over good fires one time but that all what is wrong ?
Ron Wilson
Sounds to me like you have a safety switch issue it could be the switch that’s on the mower deck, one easy way to tell if it’s in the safety system is to remove that wire from your magneto shorting block then your engine should start up and everything should work fine that will isolate the issue to one system then you’ll have to start checking switches to find out which one is bad, I would start with the mower deck. Jim
Jim, have a switch problem. Snapper 250813BE wouldn't start. Changed the clutch/ brake switch now it starts and runs but i don't have to press clutch or sit on seat. I can started by standing next to it. Any ides? All I did was canged one switch. Thanks
My bosses machine has the same issue and I can’t figure out what the problem is I’m still working on that if I figure it out I’ll let you know and if you figure it out let me know talk to you soon. Jim
Not surprised
Thanks for the vid. I just got a near new Snapper RER. It wont turn over with the starter (unless I jump the solonoid) but fires up with pull rope. Engine dies when mower is placed into reverse or forward gears. Seems like a safety switch. Seat?
Sounds like your switch on your yoke inside your rear case is bad or adjust needs to be adjusted. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 Thanks so much, I will check that. Been using Snappers since the 1970s and never had one with all these sensors
@@bigredmachine55 Yeah I hate all them stupid things to let me know. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 if you know anyone that needs a bagger for a really late model Snapper let me know
@@bigredmachine55 What state are you in, how much are you asking for it, and is it a single or double bagger. Jim
I just picked up a mower and for the life of me I can't get it started, I've let the carb set in carb cleaner and cleaned it off. I got a new in line filter. I'm having to jump it off because the battery is gone. This thing sat up for 2 years. It's got fresh gas in it. The seat safety switch is cut and wire nuts are on the ends. I have a new carb coming Monday because it will run for a short time on starting fluid. The plug is new and I do get spark. Any suggestions?
@ Jim Jackson
@@stevestewart3816 Yeah I think you’re on the right track with a new carburetor or trying to clean your old one let me know what’s going on with it, I see my last email didn’t come through I can’t remember what I wrote it looks like I was trying to send you my email address which is
jimsfixitshop@gmail.com
Thanks. Jim
For a test take all the wires off of the magneto grounding screw and see if it will start, let me know what it’s doing. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 yea I took the wire off the magnito still didn't start.
@@jimjackson9381 I'm thinking if it was any problems with any safety switches would it even start with starting fluid?
I need the wire connectors that fit into the mower deck switch. My deck switch is good but a critter chewed through the wires right where the metal spade fits in the plastic housing. So just looking to replace those wires/connectors. Any thoughts?
Check your local ace hardware or Menards or Home Depot or Lowe’s still all carry the connectors. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 Thank you. A reason to go to Ace. Do you happen to know what those connectors are called?
@@funymuny I think I would take the switch off the deck and take it with you that way they can see what you need. Jim
Thanks Jim for the video. I purchased a used RER model 3012523BVE (7800105). I noticed none of the safety features were working. The mower starts manually and works fine, but the electric start does not work, just clicks.I discovered (thanks to your video) that the plug-in interlock module was missing. I am getting a replacement for that, assuming the switches themselves are OK should that enable the safety system? Could the missing module be a cause for the electric start to not work?
Well let me know if you buy one and it doesn’t work I have some other things for you to check. Jim
Does it make sense that the mower is able to manually start and work with the interlock module missing? Wouldn’t that leave all the safety switches in their off position? Just wondering if I might be missing something else.
@@yewtoobules I would say if they took out the module and the machine is still Running then they must of unhook the one wire coming from yet going to the magneto shorting block otherwise the machine wouldn’t start. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 The magneto shorting block was a good clue. I took a look at it. There are three black wires and one clip whose wire was cut. It looks like it was yellow. One black goes back into the engine, the other down the central red shaft of the mower and the other black wire goes through the harness back to the interlock module. Any idea where this yellow one was supposed to go?
@@yewtoobules Can you trace the yellow one and see if it goes back to your stater for charging your battery, let me know what you fine. Jim
Hi, i have a snapper sr1433 and won’t start with the switch, its start manual. I put a new solenoid, if the security switch is bad won’t start with the key? Thanks
Back under the seat where the solenoid is there should be a fuse check the fuse to see if that’s good if that’s good and the engine will start when you turn the key to the on position it’s probably the ignition switch I don’t know how old your machine is or how many safety switches you have, does the engine turn over with the key but it just won’t start or does the engine not even turn over when you turn the key to start?. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 the fuse it’s ok, It’s doesn’t do nothing with the key, its star manually I put the switch in on and I pull the rope.
So when you turn the key to the Start position does the engine turn over but not start or does it do nothing?. Jim
So if this is a SR series it is not the turtle correct. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 it do nothing, maybe the switch its not sending the signal to turn the starter.
@Travis Layton I did!
Millie Breland
OK what did you do and what did it help or not help. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 We have enjoyed so many of your videos and you've helped us with our 2008 (28" Snapper with the dual bags)! Your videos have answered so many questions and helped us tweak our machine, and it's running fantastic at the moment! On the subject of "removing all the safety features": are you ever gonna make that video? I know there's a liability and you have to be careful!!! We sure wish we could remove all of our safety features! Thank you for sharing your expertise!!!
@@milliebreland1078
Have you seen video no. 319 it covers this issue. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 Going there now! Thank you so much!
@@jimjackson9381 Thanks! It answered all our questions!!!
I was mowing on my Snapper SPX 150 Series Model 2691021 (10 Years old) when I stopped to take a break, it would not restart. I saw the battery was old, so I replaced that, checked the solinoid, safety switches and everything I could think of. I am getting no power to crank the engine. I did a bypass and the engine ran ok. I'm at a loss, can you help. Frank E.
I’m not sure if this is a rear engine snapper or a front engine snapper by your numbers you sent but anyway to test the safety system on your engine there is a control panel where the throttle cable hooks to on that panel will be a bolt sticking out that is your magneto shorting block typically there’s three wires on that block one comes from the coil inside the engine one comes from the ignition switch and one comes from the safety system take that wire off from the safety system and see if the machine operates properly then you’ll know for sure it’s a issue with the safety system somewheres just remember to hook the wire back up when you fix your issue it’s there for a very important reason, let me know what you find out. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 Thanks for getting back so soon. The mower is a front engine and I could not find panel with a bolt.
It’s typically on the same side as the carburetor that is what your throttle cable hooks to and your linkages go to the carburetor from that panel and the magneto shortly in block will be on that panel usually it’s on the lower right hand side it’s a bolt that sticks out about 3/8 of an inch with a nut and some wires on it but it’s mounted in plastic so it is not ground it to the engine
@@jimjackson9381 I did find it, i almost had to take the hood off to find it. There are only two wires, one is black and the other I think is a light green and they are both in a connector. Before I cut one of the wires, what do you think I should do?
@@frankeldien6746 take both off and see if it will work ok but don’t let the wires touch any ground it will kill the engine, to stop the engine put the wires back on. Let me know what it does. Jim
doing the switch test you don't show which tabs you are testing
I start mg RER Snapper today, clutch depressed! Cranked up great! When I let my foot off the clutch brake pedal it dies! Push it back in, stays running!!! Any ideas?
Yes it sounds like your switch needs to be replaced or your interlock modem which is about 60 bucks so let’s hope it’s the nine dollar switch. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 I discovered your video on the safety switches, not the one where you speak of the clutch being in to stay running… I’ll check it out tomorrow! Thanks so much from Nederland Texas!!! I own 3 Snspper RER! Lovem so much!!!
I watched the one where the gentlemen was having issues like mine… when he took his foot off of the clutch it would die, push the clutch back down stay running! It was exactly the video I needed! Thanks so much!!’
@@Garylee62 You’re welcome Gary let me know if you have any issues or can’t figure this out. Jim
@@Garylee62 Well if you need any further help please let me know. Jim
Also, how do I bypass the safety switch under the engine deck in the back? Maybe that’s suspect on my comment above?
Sorry… I meant the Comment below…
It’s kind of hard to bypass that switch because it’s a double switch it’s normally open and normally closed your best bet would be to take it out and check it with a meter and see if it’s working. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 I ordered the belt and the switch from Parts Tree… btw… my Snappers are both Model 7800104 /28” hi-vacs
@@Garylee62 Well let me know if that switch does or does not take care of your issue. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 I certainly will!
Hey Jim. I'm at a loss. I had to replace my carburetor because of a flooding issue. The motor is running fine, but it now dies when releasing the clutch even in neutral. I have confirmed that all the switches are functioning correctly with my multi meter. Is it time to get a new interlock or do you have any other ideas?
If you’ve checked all of the switches and wires and the only thing that’s left is the interlock. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 I figured so. Went ahead and got one on the way. Still scratching my head to how these things go bad.
@@longboardcamify D C current is hard and switches and contacts every time the switch opens it sparks and it causes carbon and burning, let me know if that takes care of the issue. Jim
My thought as well. I think im going to use my electric start sparingly from now on.
Hey just thought I should let you know it was the interlock. New one worked like a charm. Let me know if you want me to send the bad one to you.
Jim., may snapper starts right up but dies once I take my foot off the break or engage the clutch. You think it could be a safety switch?
Yes it is definitely a safety switch , it is the switch inside the rear case that the yolk activates when you push your pedal in and out. Jim
Awesome… thanks Jim.. I also stumbled across your video #151 that address this issue.
I picked up a used snapper tonight and that was the issue. I real score for me. Only 250 and it is in very good shape.
I do yard work and use a 30” snapper with a 10hp Briggs flathead on it.. it’s a 2001 model I believe. But what I do is I load it on my truck without driving it up. I engage it into 1st gear and guid the mower up the ramps while standing beside it. I used to ride it up till I figured that out… very dangerous to ride it up into my truck like that. A bit fun and an adrenaline rush but it’s basically Russian roulette… lol
So I would like to bypass all those switches on this new snapper so I can continue to load it this way.
Question, my snapper rider runs great until I release the clutch, then it Boggs down and no power, any ideas ?
Does it bug down and stall the engine or does it just bogged down and keep running?. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 Boggs down and keeps running
@@jeffsandberg9163 Hey Jeff what I’d like you to try to do is put your machine in neutral stand it up and turn the clutch disk assembly by holding onto one of the four nuts and see if it turns relatively easy or if it’s turning really hard and tight. Jim
@@jimjackson9381 it turns easy
OK if it’s turning really easy then it’s not putting a drag on the engine my next guess would be your governor is not working properly, what does it do when it’s sitting there running in neutral and you kick the mower deck in gear how does the engine act at that point ? . Jim
I'm wondering if anybody knows why if you disconnect all the safety switches why the engine still won't get spark?
If you have all your safety switches unhooked by taking the wire off of the Magneto, Shorting block and your engine still won’t start then you have a problem with either your ignition switch your kill wire, going from your magneto, Shorting block to your coil or the coil itself. Jim.
@@jimjackson9381 thank you sir!
'this whole nightmare of safety switches', 'a handful to get out' -all clear signs of hilarious design. This is surely not what makes America great.
What it boils down to is it’s the manufacturers protecting themselves against lawsuits. Every time somebody does something stupid and gets hurt. They try to sue the company, so then the companies engineers try to come up with something to keep the next person from doing the same thing and getting hurt. I’m not sure they’re trying to protect us. We’re just trying to protect their bank account. Jim
Can't I forgo all these ,back in the day non were needed. My lyfe is going by I m tired of fixing things that don't need fixing.
I have a black and white wire going to starter I cut the butt connector.cause it was burning i thought. Any idea sir
Dump Godby
Well I’m good but not that good in electrical short or issue I have to check with a meter to track down where the issue is and how to repair it it could be somewhere in your safety switches or it could be your stater I’m just guessing that’s something I have to actually check to find. Jim