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Riding Mower Saftey Switch Issue, How To Bypass & Rewire Your Tractor DIY (2019)
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- čas přidán 4. 09. 2024
- This is DIY on how to rewire and bypass your safety switch's that could be a issue why the rider will not fire. Sometimes its hard to find out witch one is not work and u can save your self a lot of money. Hope this vid helps u THANKS FOR WATCHING SUBSCRIBE FOR MORE
I got a non running cub cadet, I have been trying to figure out these crazy wires. Today I'm wiring mine like yours.
Finally someone with a good comprehensive way of getting it done. Thank you and you've pick up another subscriber
This guy can teach
You are a Wiring, Diagnostic, Tracing Genius among other talents. Thanks much for your valuable time to make the video.
Solved my 7 pole husqvarna switch big hole in the dash issue. I modified your standard box switch application with a standard round starter switch with rubber weatherproof cap. Drilled 1/2" hole so it could slide in easy, used bulk head lock nut to secure, screwed on w/proof cap. As you said clean, sanitary look done right. Thank you love the University of CZcams.
I have a husqvarna LTH 130 riding mower and haven’t figured out how to rewire it yet any suggestions
Thank you very much, i just spent a week on my mower but could not get it working, i wached your video i had no problems getting it wired . very nicely explained. again thank you.
You can use your old key switch. That way you don`t have to install a different push button and a toggle switch to shut it off. Just wire the B to battery, M to magneto (coil) - (or it could be stamped I for ignition), S to the solenoid, G to ground, and L to the headlights (if you have them). The letters should be stamped on the back of the switch - if not, you can find diagrams on line. The one stator wire is red 12 + volts (it will not charge on 6 volts as you stated, when the mower is running at full throttle you should have slightly over 12 volts) and the other stator wire is black which goes to the headlights. The red stator wire has a diode inline that converts AC voltage to DC for 12 volt charging. Doing it this way the switch will work normally but you will bypass all of the safety switches. You are correct about the solenoid wiring, if it has one post the solenoid body will ground it, if it has 2 posts you have to run a separate wire from one spade connector to ground. I find it`s a lot easier and looks (stock).
Thanks
how would i do this? would it just be as simple as cutting the wires i don’t need?
Thank you so much for this video finally somebody that explained it in a way I could understand
Great detail and explanation. You'll be my go-to source of info for all of my 10 small engines from now on!
Very good teacher there none like you thanks
awesome video, thank you! i would like to share my experience with a Husqvarna RZ4623 zero turn mower. this mower would not start it is a safety switch that is keeping my mower from starting. i checked the switches and tested each one and they are suppose to be working. every wire on these safety switches has a white wire connected to the socket. tracing most of these wires there are about three of these wires joined to the negative ground cable. The solenoid has a white wire as the trigger wire. on the ignition switch i found the S on the switch either it stands for solenoid or starter. i cut the wire from the switch leaving enough room for splicing.. i connected a direct wire from the ignition switch S to the solenoid and disconnected the white wire in the solenoid with my spliced wire from the ignition switch. The engine started and to my surprise i bypassed the safety switches on my husqvarna zero turn.
I am trying this tomorrow- so simple. I've been fooling with a very hacked up ztr and is giving me the flux. I'm attempting this tomorrow!!
I bought this to use as my ignition switch on a 1963 Bolens 800 riding mower czcams.com/users/postUgkxaAnMgzTZ_djF6K1Kr3MGiW_XGUMfUP8n I repowered with a 13hp Predator engine. Worked great! On the back of this switch are 5 terminals labeled G, M, L, S, and B. The G was wired straight to ground, The S was wired from the back of the switch to my starter solenoid. The L is for any accessories, so I ran it from the L terminal to a rear light I have on the riding mower. M is for the coil, so I plugged the stock coil wire to this wire terminal. The B is for constant battery power, so this was wired to the positive battery cable. I turn the key, first click is the accessory position, and my rear light came on as expected. Turned the key all the way and Vroom...the engine started. Turn it back to the off position, and the engine turned off. Perfect! Hope this helps!
Thanks, I have watched at least a dozen or so videos on this subject and yours is the most detailed and to the point which I appreciate. as Sgt. Joe Friday would say, Just the facts.
Thanks for the info on the pto wiring, i have a mower to wire up and i now know the correct way to make that switch work... I don't care for those safety switches either..
Thank u for this video I was at a stand still with my mower until I watched this.
I have a jd la135 I inherited from a friend, it shuts off when it heats up. Any direction you can point me to? Replaced coils, carb, plugs, fuel pump, ....all safety switches are bypassed. I'm puzzled
You're BRILLIANT! Thank you so much for making this video!
Hey man this is a real useful video. I need to do this same setup myself. thanks a million.
I have a jd lx172 with the igniter on the side of the 14hp kohler how could I bypass that? It’s one of the models with the circuit board behind the key switch and it’s 130$ so I’m just rewiring the whole thing
Great video! I’m sure my 4-wire seat switch is fried. I’d love to get rid of it. Mine is a 2014 Craftsman LT2000 but this video helps.
Mine has the Briggs and Stratton 17.5hp engine
Great, everything is clear, thank you. I have a question. On my ignition switch 5 the names of the terminals are M, C, B, L, G.
To which of them should I connect the wire coming from the alternator to recharge the battery?
Hi that was very informative, however do you not need a relay or fuse connected from the solenoid??????? jst asking, thanks
No problem, u dont have to but if u wanted to it wouldnt hurt. For safty but i have never used them when rewiring and havent had a problem
thanks, helpful..what about the voltage regulator? i swaped kholer no courage crap motor with a 14.5 briggs and splicing the regulator from the cub motor to the briggs, gona try it tomorrow. not sure if the stator is enough amps for the mower clutch
Home brewed wiring complete with wire nuts and no fuses. Need a fire extinguisher much?
Great video! I have a Honda 4518 and i want to eliminate all relays, safety switches, and electronics. This machine has several boards that are damaged. My biggest question is how to get spark when i dont have spark? And also i'm curious of diods coming of of pto wiring???
Great video you solved my problem on my pto set up.Thank you.
Very good tutorial. Thanks.
I have been fighting this Cub Cadet for days now. Finally a solution! Thanks!!!
So just re-wiring under the hood like you showed us will by pass all the safety wiring from the clutch/brake pedal, gear shifter, mower engagement and seat safety switch? My Craftsman is pretty old but has the safety features i mentioned. Yesterday i swapped my old seat for a newer one then dropped the mower deck and now i cant get power to the starter. i went underneath and noticed a whole mess of other wires (with inline fuse) running from the gear shifter back. I like to know how your wires run from your battery under the seat to your dashboard. Thanks for this upload :)
Very helpful,I'm like u .I get rid of everything but what make it run.👍
Thanks for this video. It worked like a charm for me. But, I have one question, how would I wire for the headlights & hour meter? I have a new engine & put a new hour meter is so I could keep track of the running time. Thanks in advance if you can tell me what to do.
Good job! Thanks for the info. You just got a new subscriber!
Did I miss it or do you just leave the charging wire connected to your battery?
Great video. Thanks. 2:10 - maybe use a vice? Or maybe that would make it too hard to see what you are drilling. Anyway - good show.
trying to bypass safety swiths on a craftsman twin cylinder kill wires to coil have diodes on them
went to black ground wire feeding them and cant turn them off if i reconnect wire key shuts them off
but not at plug ???? question can u turn off 2 coils grounding to 1 wire if u connect both coil wires together it wont run
Can you please explain about coils wires in next video
That sounds good without a muffler 😊
I'm having an issue with my mower starting. You might have some advice. Idk if you answer comments. My solenoid is energized before I turn key to crank. Nothing in off. 12v is on both battery and starter post key on not cranking.. is this normal
Very cool. A little disjointed, but very useful just the same. Thank you...
I have a rider mover that has not been running for like 35 years would taking all of the safety switches off would make it run? Also do i have to just wire the key, stater and the lights if i took the deck off
Hi there. I have a husqvarna lawn riding mower with 24 hp Briggs & Stratton that not start. It died on me when I was cutting my grass. It seems like no power but when I play with the electric wire, it has power showing the number of the hours on the meter then When I try to start I heard it click a little bit then died again and no power again. Could you tell me what is wrong with that?
Does this engine have a solonoid switch on the carb??
Great video thanks, very helpful.
Question- Bought a house and the previous owner left a craftsman riding mower with a Briggs 18.5 Intek. Said it didn’t run and didn’t know why. Anyways I dove into it and found a bad coil/magneto. Ordered a new coil and it ran great. Drove around with no problems til I shut it down. Would not restart. Found that the new coil went bad...again. I’m guessing for whatever reason 12 volts got sent through the ground back to the coil and fried it? Your thoughts?
Tha ks for the comment! Honestly i have never seen power go through the ground and damage a coil like that but anything is possible. Heres a couple thing u can do if u havent yet, disconnect the ground wire on the coil and check for spark again, if u have spark then u have a bad ground if u dont than coil is bad maybe a cheap coil? If not oem. Let me know ill try to get back to u
Small Engine Repair So I received the new coil today. I installed a toggle switch on the dash and wired one end to the frame and one end to the ground terminal of the coil. Basically just made a kill switch. We’ll see if it lasts! Will keep you updated.
THIS IS VERY ELIGHTENING. I AM WORKING ON MY NEIGHBORS GT 5000 AND GOT IT RUNNING. HOWEVER, EVERY TIME I PULL THE BLADE SWITCH THE MOTOR DIES LIKE THERE IS A KILL SWITCH WORKING. I HAVE BYPASSED THE SEAT SWITCH AND THE BRAKE PEDAL SWITCH. IS THERE ANYMORE KILL SWITCHES I NEED TO BYPASS? OH THANKS FOR THIS VIDEO!
I'm fixing to do the same with my mower. I already have the seat switch bypassed so I can get off the tractor while it's running. The safety switches are just there to babysit the stupid people who have no common sense. It doesn't take much to bypass all those switches but tearing out all the wiring and starting over is so much simpler and cleaner.
Great instructions! Thank You!
Im trying this on an 06 cub cadet, and I have two black wire coming out of motor (kill wires) but with them there is also a red wire...do I need to keep that hot or can I get rid of it?
Cool video lots of good information
very good demonstration,, thanks.
Will this work on a john deere 212 with a 12hp kohler? As I have a coil,condensor and breaker,points etc.
Thanks for the information man and really help me out
what gauge wires pure copper , half copper and aluminum? do you recommend for rewiring for us new-bee's week end mechanic's that have never done this
Just use the wires from tractor or pick some up like it will be fine
I don't plan on permanently disabling all the safety switches but want to do so just to isolate a problem. The ignition switch on my Honda 3813 tractor isn't sending juice to the solenoid; turn the key and ... nothing. On this Honda, all 3 safety's (seat, transmission, & PTO) have snap-apart connectors. Question is: if I disconnect them, kinda like you did, will they be bypassed or will that actually engage the safety feature? I know I could simply try it both ways but they are hard to get to so I wanted to get your take first. Thanks so much.
I got a free Craftsman opposed twin that would start then die when I let out the clutch so I figured the clutch interlock was bad. But I did not want to replace it because it is a bitch to get to. So I pulled the plug and jumpered one of the two sets of female connections. Now it works fine. Only prob is I have to remember to put it in neutral or push in the clutch before cranking. In other words now it will start in gear so might be a bit dangerous. I believe I found if I jumpered the other set of female connections it just would not crank. I think you can eliminate the seat interlock by simply unplugging it. You might have to experiement with the deck interlock. In my case that one was easy to get to so I pulled it and it tested ok.
Hy,
And for hydro ?
Thanks
Like the tin of dip in the back round !!!!!!
When I snipped bolt on bottom of carb it’s flooding engine. What should I do to prevent that?
Wow I learned a lot thank you so much
nice job i same tractor i am going do it the same way you did your wish me luck
Good video I am 78 yrs old going to try it.not much SMarts but will give it a try. Everything I try testing never works way you do it is good got craftmanlt1000 older90s. Thanks again from Canada.
Great video. I think that you've helped me solve my problem. Imo go out and work on it. I'll let you know.
Bro!!! Using the "Tumbler" housing from the key & tumbler is fucking awesome. Gonna steal that and do it to both my riders. Thanks for the video brosiphine-baker 🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻
Is there a way to just remove the wiring to the safety switches such as clutch and reverse without mangling the ignition? I just had a clutch safety switch go out and it's almost impossible to get out.
I'm about 100% sure it would have been cheaper and so much safer not to mention easier to just simply fix any saftey relays.
The worst ones are on MTD products but in 30 minutes you can run down the problem and fix it properly
It appears that SAFETY is the hardest word in the world to spell.
I looked at a 1962 Wheel Horse B 80 Tractor/mower, and it didn't have any safety switches, just labels that said, disengage mower deck before starting. And park in neutral. I guess younger folks today need a safety switch rather than read a label.
Best video ever
Is it the same to rewire a Craftsman lawn mower with a Kohler engine..I have a Craftsman t1800..I want to rewire.. anyone know .. thank you.. Ezequiel
Those stock key switches are junk. Ordered 2 new ones from Sears Parts Direct, tested them with a digital multimeter ohm meter for continuity. 1 did not work, new.
You have helped sir
Very nice and informative one ☝️
Hi i have a lawn tractor that will run for about 5 minutes and then it will start to spuder. And then it will start to blow black smoke. Do you happen to know why this is happening.
Could be a couple thing could have a blown head gasket or maybe there is fuel in crankcase due to the carburator failing or to much oil or motor is no good
Great
How do you trickle charge a 12 volt battery with the 6 or 7 volts you mentioned?
The engines have a charging system underneath the flywheel witch back feeds the battery to keep it charging
New subscriber..thanks for the info
Just letting you know I tried everything that you did exactly to the tea and now my ship won't start at all won't even crank
Thank you
Nice work🤠👍
Perfect video 🙏
Thanks I this will help I appreciate the info .
Somehow I missed the ampmeter part. Do both of the wires from the meter need to be hooked up? If so where do they hook. Thanks bud I really appreciate the vid and it was just in time for me. Havagudun.
No problem glad to help usually it is the red wire the other wire doesn't need to be hooked up and that's most Briggs & stratton's unless it has a voltage regulator then you have to find the wire coming off the voltage regulator that generates the power
@@smallenginerepair3379 Thanks a bunch. I mistakenly hooked the bottom wire to the hot end forgetting this motor is mag fired. I probably smoked the coil but will try it again. Again thank you.
so how did you wire up the on/off switch next to the push button? i’m trying to do this on my mower, but i didn’t see anything about it.
U have 2 post on a switch 1 goes to the coil wire and the other goes to ground
@@smallenginerepair3379 thanks man!
Kick ass video bd!!🤘🤘🤘. Just curious as to whether or not you have to use a pto switch to engage blades. Could you use. Simple toggle switch...wired the same way? Or is there some hoodini shit going on in there that i am not to question.
Thanks very much for the comment yes you can use a toggle switch
Brilliant video
I did this and now my blades won't turn on?what did I f up this time
Awsome job man. Got one question about my carburetor mine has the wired plug going to the bottom of the bowl and I think it failed or something because I now have gas filling the compression chamber and when I pull the spark plug I can crank it and gas will shoot out ....Now i have gas in my oil..Do you think my carburetor is the problem.? And can I just unhook it or do i have to do something else?
Yes it's definitely your carburetor the gas is leaking through it and filling up the motor so you need to drain all that gas and oil out then put fresh oil in and get you a new carburetor you can get them for Fairly cheap online eBay aftermarket ones work pretty good around twenty bucks just make sure you don't have any more gas in the gas tank cuz it will still dump fuel into the motor
@@smallenginerepair3379 Thanks for the quick reply..I guess any carburetor will work? I don't have to have the one with the wires going to it then? I pulled the carburetor and cleaned it but I guess I'll just have to pick up a new one.
@@Towboatman111 no problem at all glad to help well the one with the solenoid on the bottom of it would be a good idea to get what type of motor is it
@@smallenginerepair3379 its a 13.5 hp Briggs and Stratton that came on my 38c bolens riding mower
@@Towboatman111 yeah just look up 13.5 briggs carburator intex should be able to find a cheap aftermarket one
Smart 👍
How do you wire up the voltage meter for the battery when you rewire it
Do u have a voltage regulators? If u do then when engine is running test the wires for around 6 to 7 volts and that's the wire that can go to constant 12volts or directly to the positive terminal. And if u just have to wires coming from under the flywheel should be a red wire test it and it should have the same
It had two wires going to the dash readout on the voltage. One was going to the battery. It has a purple wire coming from the alternator so do I wire the purple wire to the second wire from the voltage meter?
I Have A Scotts Made By John Deere. The Blade Engagement Is A Lever Not A Switch. Can I Wire My Ignition Like This? Thanks
Yes u can
Thanks
Can I Use My Factory Switch?
For a kill switch?
Yessir
I have a craftsman LT 2000 I lost the key to it. I've bypassed all the wiring and have it hooked up exactly the same but mine won't actually run.
It's got fire and turns over but won't stay running.
My kill switch is a 3 prong (power, load, ground) because it has a light to show its powered to run... I'm just at a loss
How long has it been since the last time it ran?
@@smallenginerepair3379 today. I was crossing the wire harness just to get it running
I have literally taken all of the wires out of the mower there are ZERO wires ran aside from the starter to solenoid. I'm wondering if the carb choke or safety shutoff for the fuel is the issue idk..
@@justinwnichols03 there is usually a little silinod on the bottom of a carburetor in the video I show you about it if your carburetor has one of those you have to take it out and cut off a piece of that because it's plugging up the main jet of the carburetor that could possibly be your problem
@@smallenginerepair3379 ironically I replaced that part a year ago lol I will try again tomorrow and get back to you, thanks again!
I will put a cut off switch under the just for safety for the kids, but yes is a good idea 👍
I ALSO CHECKED FOR A CLICK ON THE WIRED PULLEY(PTO ?) AND IT CLICKS.
I'm sooooo fed up with all the wiring. Click clik is what I'm putting. Up with. You can use a push button or cheap 20-30amp two pole key switch.
Check your fuse or solenoid and make sure you got a good battery
@@smallenginerepair3379 done that. Good bat and new solinoid and fuse. If I jump hot leads on solinoid and starter fine. I have noticed 12v tab on solid when powered will click.
@@TheWaterman1000 yes I know it could be frustrating sometimes it's very hard figure out what the problem is when I get to that point I just rewire the damn thing you could spend hours and hours hunting down the safety switches and testing them
You spelled safety wrong in the title
Does anyone know if I bypass the safety switch for the blades it’ll mess up the transmission hydros ? Any help would be greatly appreciated
No it wont the transmission only works with the belt
@@smallenginerepair3379 the transmission on my mower is hydro. It’s not belt driven.
32” Wright stander B
@@SleepyJoe408 okay if you mean hydraulic it should still not mess with it because that's fluid driven and a hydrostatic is fluid driven to but belts run it
@@smallenginerepair3379 ok thanks for your help. The reason I’m really thinking about by passing the blade switch (pto) is because I bag in all my lawns and I’m literally hopping of the mower every minute. (Not exaggerating lol) sometimes every 30 seconds depending on how fast the bag gets full. It’s really annoying to turn off the pto switch on and off 15 times per lawn. Not to mention I’m afraid that with so much use of the pto switch of constantly turning it off and on, it’ll break over time. That’s really the main reason why I want to “bypass it”. And I was just curious if that small modification would mess with the hydro pumps.
@@SleepyJoe408 for sure no problem man just remember to be safe they do put the safety switches there for a reason LOL but sometimes they are a pain
Thats how we wire the MUDMOWERS
More
Hello, did the whole rewiring and works great but now my battery seems to go dead I have to be jumpstarting everytime it's a brand new battery I thought if was a defective battery so I tried with another one and still the same thing happened..is there a reason why that's happening ? And what can I do to fix this issue. Please get back to me when you can I would appreciate it, thank you
Hello yes thank you for the comment usually there's a backfeed power from the engine that gives out about 6 volts back-feed power what kind of motor do you have sometimes it'll be a wire hanging out from underneath the fly will usually there's two a red and a yellow and then sometimes the wires come out and go into a voltage regulator that's on most Briggs & stratton's and the Kohler engines will have a similar set up you just need to find where the power is coming from from the motor and the red is your back feet power wire might be a different color on Kohler the yellow one you do not have to use
I have a 18.5 hp Briggs&stratton...and yes theres a black wire hanging from under the flywheel I connected it straight onto my battery. Is that ok ? Also with the selenoid coming from the carburetor I connected direct to 12 v, since I couldn't figure out another wiring system to make it open or close so I just kept it open. Do you think this was a reason it also drained ? Since that I have now done what you suggested on the video and cut the little tip and disconnected it all together but the battery still drains...I keep the engine running maybe about 1 min or so, is that enough to recharge the battery a bit with the black wire coming from under the flywheel connected to the battery ?
Okay so there's three wires that come out from underneath the motor one goes to the ignition coil which is a black wire that wire goes to a switch to kill the engine and then there's two wires with usually a little white connector at the end of it ones red and ones yellow the red one goes to 12 volt power any 12 volt Source will feed the battery or directly hook it to the battery and if you're wanting to know if you're charging systems working get out a multimeter and test that wire with the engine running and that will tell you if you're getting charged
Never use wire nuts
that looks like crap.
I by passed everything on mine but I lost spark somewhere
You are setting yourself up for a law suit or jail time if there is an accident!!!If you are a working tech they can take everything you own if you knowingly release a piece of equipment back to the owner with Jack legged safety switch repairs!!!We make customers sign a waiver if they refuse the needed repairs to safety protocol!!!Not responsible for accident injury or death!!!
WOW! LOL theres so much crap on the internet and u wana hate. This is suposed to help people not get them hurt and its at your own risk just like everything eles im not reliable u need to be smart. thanks for the commet though everyone should be safe!
@@smallenginerepair3379 Not hate!Just putting that out there to save someone heartache!!I.ve been doing smr for 40 years and saw alot of bad shit happen even before safety protocol!!!Good luck my friend!!
Your video will not load more than 36 seconds. Too bad. I really wanted to watch.
Yeah thats weird its never done that must be issue with CZcams or something
It's your internet connection video plays all the way for me
@@sonsybaton925 for me too i see all info thanks
You don’t need safety!!!
Man, there is an easier way to do this. If your stator is only sending 6-7 vdc then you have a problem. By SAE standards, a fully charged battery is 12.6 vdc, you can't get there if all you've got is 6 or 7 vdc to charge with, it just won't happen. I'd imagine the need for jumper cables is right there! I recently did a video on the John Deere safety switches, I showed how to non-destructively delete them all. Check it out if you like: czcams.com/video/vLlk5zOTWkQ/video.html
Just a heads up notice friend, when you see a switch with more then 2 terminals, you better believe it's doing something more than only 2 contacts! That solenoid that you destroyed is also a fuel shut off valve, don't delete it if you don't have to, your carb will just leak excess fuel into the intake otherwise. By the looks of it, we have the same briggs engine. And I've flapped my finger tips long enough, cheers 🍻 man!
Thanks for the comment I've never seen a riding lawn mower push up more than 6 or 7 volts it's like a trickle charger and they always seem to charge my batteries there's jumper cables on it because there's no battery in it and if you cut that solenoids deal off and you're carburetor leaks then you have a float and needle seat problem that part has nothing to do with your carb leaking never seen it unless you're carburetor has failed you and yes there is always easier ways to do things I just like this way I don't do it to every tractor only when you're having a major problem would probably be easy to hunt down the safety switch but it works good for me
@@smallenginerepair3379 You have me curious, exactly where and exactly how are you measuring 6-7 vdc? High frequency low voltage can charge to higher states, but that is not what is going on here. If you can charge a battery with 7 vdc and it magically becomes 12+ vdc, well then, how are you doing it?
@@Finite-TuningFinite: I'm puzzled just like you are about that 6 or 7 volt DC reading and its ability to charge a 12 V batter. This is a guess, but I'd be interested in hearing if there is any merit to this guess: could his voltmeter be set on the AC scale instead of the DC scale? The AC voltmeter could be picking up pulsing DC voltages that peak at perhaps 14 volts; but might "average" around 6 or 7 volts on the AC scale? Could a pulsing DC (for example just the positive or top half of the AC sine wave) voltage result in a 6 or 7 volt reading if read on the AC scale of the voltmeter? The peaks of the clipped sine wave pulses might be in the 12-14 volt range (and the peaks might be enough to trickle charge the battery)? What do you think?
@@takeachanceonme4
You are exactly correct, if Small Engine Repair would have answered my question, I would have explained to him simply that he's measuring incorrectly. Firstly ya can't use a DC meter to read AC voltage, and second, ya can't measure pre-rectified voltage right off the stator on the DC scale. That's gotta be what he's doing because there is no other way he is coming up with these measurements using a DVOM.
It's been a long time for me so my memory is rusty, but I'm pretty sure these charging systems are actually AC (sinusoidal) albeit not very pretty looking on an oscilloscope.
But either way, if he would measure at the battery terminals for example rather than the coil or wherever he's measuring from, he'd see a rectified 13 + VDC at wide open throttle, assuming his charging system is fully functional.
Cheers 🍻