Amazing video thanks I'll definitively do those two tests on my car tomorrow Could a less defective, non sealing valve cause a "firecracker/gunpowder" smell from the exhaust by letting unburnt fuel land on the catalytic converter? My car starts well, but has a little hickup when I punch the throttle and it smells gunpowdery sulfury from the exhaust when engine reaches operating temperature.
I love this video man, very helpful. I have a e46 N42 engine I replaced all spark plugs changed valve seals, head gasket and bad the bad coil. All cylinders are misfiring. The mechanic did not check for bad valve when he pulled the head. This will help me to test if there were any bad valve.
Thank you very very much, I had this problem in my Nissan Patrol, I thought it was a bad injector but, after seeing this video, I found that exhaust valve N° 3 cylinder doesn't close completely so the compression was low resulting in white smokes and engine was shaking so bad until it warms up. thank you again.
Great video thanks. Back in the day we would use the card board off a book of matches. I haven't gotten to work on a car engine other than a race engine sense 1983. I have seen it try to suck that thin card board up and back out. Keep up the great work see you in the next video thanks again
@@Khusta...Ngcupe the one with a bad exhaust valve sucked the towel in and the one with rebuilt heads didn't. So in short it...the paper towel trick works
Hey mate, just a question. My bike, honda cbr 600 rr 2004, is lately stalling in neutral at stops even clutched in and also while riding will lose power for a second or two or will jerk forward sometimes as I'm deccelerating. Do you have any idea what that might be? Thanks
I have my cylinder head off, burnt and damaged exhaust valve in cylinder 4. Question…what is the likely culprit for oil on the corresponding piston? The other two pistons had basic carbon buildup, but cylinder 4 had oil on it.
Thanks for the video. When you take the engine apart, would you just fix the damaged valve or replace all exhaust valves? Does it depend on value/age of car? Difficulty of job?
Have a jeep liberty the cat was clogged and recently replaced it now it still runs rough . Getting rich code on driver side does that sound like a burnt valve from the clogged cat? I’ve tried everything plugs coils vacuums fuel injectiors and o2 sensors
Thought my issue was head gasket. But obviously something was going on inside as well. Rough running and lost power while driving until I hit the shoulder. It wouldn’t crank back up for me. Tore it apart and had 5”the head resurfaced (it was warped pretty bad he said but gauge never read real hot). Put everything back together with new plugs, wires, other gaskets, radiator (blew a hole in the radiator when truck starting running rough the day it quit on me). Now I’m suspecting something more serious because after the head gasket job was done, it would start but run terribly rough. And now smokes from behind the engine. And there’s also a noise you can hear that kinda sounds like manifold leak but it’s coming from driver side 1998 s10 2.2. Leaning towards valves. Should’ve checked that when I done the job but I’m not a big mechanic honesty. Everything else went pretty smooth
Good video. What causes a burnt out valve like this? The valve not seating properly? I hav a 523i that has done the same thing. Its runs hydraulic lifters, could one of them be bad?
It could be from the lifter but usually from Carbon buildup, Physical valve damage (broke valve seat, bent valve, etc), Sticking at the valve guide, Broken, damaged, or weak valve spring. Anything that prevents a perfect seal and allows a leak to start.
Is there a way to adjust the timing without marks? I took the chain out and my stupidity allowed me to turn the the sprocket s individually, which turned the cams. Now I have no idea where I am at. Call me an idiot because I am. 2015 Chev malibu 2.5
Poor fuel, Sticking tappets, Sticking valve guides, Incorrect tappet clearances, Excessive carbon deposits, Overheating. Could be one or more of these. Thanks for the question
Thank you for the informative video. I have a 2004 honda pilot with 259k miles. It's misfiring from multiple cylinders, has problems starting, runs idle and has slow acceleration. I had a compression test done and cylinder 6 had 30psi (I think the normal range is above 140psi). The spark plug in the cylinder had lots of carbon on it and finally, there was a leaking exhaust valve. I was advised to change the engine, which is quite expensive, as opposed to repairing it. What's the best approach here? Is it something I can repair and if so, do I need to take out the whole engine?
With that many miles, overall the car would be getting well worn. It is not a smart financial decision to pay to rebuild the engine. A good low mile engine could be put in within a day and would be the cheapest way to get the car going again.
Went to change the valve stem seals and found worn camshaft and rockers. Changed the lot and cleaned gummed up hydraulic lash adjusters. Now have intermittent symptoms shown in your video at idle. Any advice?
I had the same problem on a 318 is. At cylinder number 3. I never find the mising parts from the valve. And was i litle bit harder to find new valves. I find one only one. And while i was laping them i noticed one of the older valves has a litle scratch on the head when valve seats at cylinder head. Any idea how to fix that. I need a faster response since im going to finish the car on sunday
Hi and thanks for the comment, send a picture to my instagram account and I will be able to see whats going on. just google Killawattgarage to find me.
I have a 99 Civic, it had a bad cat that got replaced and went bad again, it has black carbon soot out of the tail pipe, loses about 1/2 qt oil every week or so. Car has no major oil leaks and I did a compression test compression was really good, what could be causing my problem?
Sorry for the slow reply I hope it is now fixed. High oil consumption will either be the oil control rings or value guides. You can try using thicker oil too.
Got an interesting one, did your test with the paper over exhaust, car was running a little shakey. Did a comp tests on all 6 cylinders and they are all the same around 130 psi. Cant put my finger on it
Typically when a section has been burnt off the exhaust valve it has occurred in a similar process to a gas welder. The combustion flame/heat escapes past the valve and valve seat and burns through a section with the flow going out the exhaust port. I hope that makes sense.
Mine runs alittle shitty and my mechanic said its crank, cam, o2 sensor, thermostat, coils, plugs and a shift solenoid so I’m in the middle of swapping that but I hope this isn’t really the problem lol
Hi. Thanks for your video. That with the cloth I don't know it and love it. Thanks. Can you help me with an 4 stroke engine, please?? It got 2 admition valves and 2 exaut valves. Has new valves and new retenair but I got lots of smoke with oil at the exhaust aut. So the problem only can be at the valve guide. But the can't identify witch guides are broken. The 2 admition valves are OK, clean. Tne 2 guides of exhaust aut are full of coal. Can you tell me please witch guides I must change?? Many thanks. And cart on with the channel.
Just waiting to find out exactly whats wrong with my mazdadpeed 6.. i only had the car for 1 day and I have no compression in cylinder 3.. its alrwdy towed away so I cant test the exhaust sucking back into the pipe. But my engine reacted the exact same ways I gave a feeling its an exhaust valve not piston rings.
Either way it sound like the head will need to come off to inspect. Bad luck that you had it only for a day. Hope it get repaired quickly and without too much $$$
Sir i Have 3 cylinder engine with Old skool roker arm tappet type .... That rocker tip has gone way down with alot of threads moved down towards valve where they meet does it indicates that my valve have wear n tear from upper side
Sounds like a lot of wear at the point of contact between the tip of the rocker arm and the tip valve and also the camshaft. Once you have gone past the point of maximum adjustment it will be time for replacement rocker arms, camshaft etc...
@@killawattgarage Not yet. I’ve been debating on trying this valve repair stuff you add to the oil but I’m hesitant. It’s not a loud noise but I do notice it and it’s really only noticeable during heavy acceleration
a bit of a disaster last week..i lost my coolant due to drain plug coming loose,however it didnt damage the engine because it runs on lpg and when you lose coolant the lpg shuts down..anyway called out the AA ,in England that is a vehicle recovery organisation..i asked the mechanic to check the compression while he was there...finds 3 cylinder was low compression,goes into cab and put its foot right down on the accelerator,swiches off engine takes out spark plug to look at it,leaves it out then makes a quick exit,says he's got to go o another job..i put spark plug back and starts the engine..loud growl and shake and engine will start n o more..was this because the mechanic high revved it? i know my valve wasnt too good but the engine did go and would have gone on alot longer
I assume it has a dual fuel option. I would start by trying to get it running on petrol just to eliminate any issues with your LPG setup. Another compression test would be a good idea as the one performed by the AA sounds as if it was rushed. I also want to question the setup that shuts off the car due to coolant loss, as this is not common in Australia?
the van only runs on lpg,its done 200k miles all on lpg...when it lost coolant the vaporiser just froze up..lots of ice around it,the gas freezes...the van was idling ok after putting back the coolant like it was before,ive researched about high revving engines while standing still and they say it can cause alot of damage..the coolant was still cold when he revved it up
Will a bad exhaust valve cause any of these symptoms? I hope someone can help me. I have a 2000 honda crv b20z2 awd. I keep getting a misfire code. I recently bought the car. Did full tune up and fluid change on the vehicle. I also keep getting a dragging noise that comes and goes. I can be going down the street normal. Then when I press the gas to accelerate the dragging noise will happen. As soon as I let go of the gas. It stops. Even if I'm cruising. The noise is only there when I press on the gas. Any help would be appreciated.
Swap the coils and spark plugs from the misfiring cylinder and see if the code changes to other cylinder, if it does then your coil or plug is at fault if not, then check compression across all cylinders. More checking will need to continue from here. Not sure about the dragging sound...start by jacking up the car and spinning each wheel. Listen for any unusual sounds.
@@killawattgarage I had zero compression in one cylinder. I'm swapping the motor now to a jdm b20b. Still not sure what the sound is. Since the car is in the shop. We put it on the lift tho, and cant see anything wrong with it. Will see if the sound continues af tr er the swap.
I have a Daihatsu Sirion 1.3 102 ps but it doesn't want to start. I bought it with a problem last ignited on 2 cylinders, I realized this after I changed the spark plugs, when I checked them only 2 were black. The engine worked for 5 minutes and turned off since then does not want to start at all. There is a spark and fuel but does not start. I replaced the camshaft sensor and crankshaft with new ones. The injectors are new to the computer and it has been replaced but no change. I measured the compression it is between 8 and 9 bar. Please help me I have no more ideas where the problem is 2 weeks I can not start the engine. 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
I've been to 4 garages or more for repairs, but my engine is still misfiring on cyl 4. No one can figure it out, everyone is speculating at this point. I've replaced injectors, coils, spark plugs, ground wires, alternator, throttle body, high pressure fuel pump, compression is 175psi across the board. What can it be...
I'm having this same issue. Changed out same things. Except my problems started first from cracked valve seals and oil getting in. Obviously changed seals then everything else. Still misfire on 4. When I switch the spark plugs and coils around it buys me a little drive time no issues but again. Cylinder 4!?! I have a 2006 honda oddyssey
Very often with burnt exhaust valves there is no damage to the piston as the missing sections of exhaust valve are burnt away with the combustion gases flow out the exhaust ports. Thanks for your question.
Yes it's the exhaust valves only as they see significant more heat and don't receive the cooling effect of the intake air/fuel mix passing over them. Thanks for the question.
@@montraycheers8629 i put that project on hold but from what I search ppl been lapping the vales and putting them back in the heads checking it for leaks and running with it i ask about this engine to so many people and they give me different answers
@@santosgarcia9499 ..... Well for starters I wouldn't recommend that you do it if your NOT a mechanic because if you don't know what your doing you could make matters alot worse than they already are. Example would be Like getting lapping compound into your valve slides and ruining your valves and possibly your pistons! So do yourself a favor and take it to a reputable garage please.
when there is a leak in the exhaust pipes/system, it eventually kills the valves, due to heating/cooling cycling between massive temperatures different from the other parts around it. mine failed, for example, because of rust. rust makes all the bolts weak. when bolts holding the exhaust manifold ever break, it creates a leak in the exhaust manifold, where the gasket is. That is an exhaust leak, and the air then gets in that way, and that is already a breach and will cause those great temperature differences as you run the engine and turn it off and park it... then drive it again, etc. Over a long time, it'll eventually kill the exhaust valves. That is the theory.
High exhaust pressure will burn valves rather quickly. That's usually caused by a clogged cat. If the preasure gets high enough the engine will start to knock and eventually the engine will turn into a bunch of smaller pieces.
Poor fuel, Sticking tappets, Sticking valve guides, Incorrect tappet clearances, Excessive carbon deposits, Overheating. Could be one or more of these. Thanks for the question
@@barbiebb5213 actually did. Turns out these symptoms happen to literally any car I tried. After tearing engine down and rebuilding, it still happened.
I think I just got the same problem with my car now. It has been driven with the "check engine" light coming on now and then, but it usually goes away after some time, but after 3 hours of driving one way with a lot of prolonged climbing on the motorway up and down, one of the valves seems to have bitten the dust. I need to get this fixed. I had to drive home again with 75 percent effect, but at least I got myself a good motorcycle, it's always good to have the freedom of choice and alternatives :)
Definitely have a misfire at lower revs, but harder to notice once the revs build. A misfire code will be P030- with the last number being the cylinder misfiring. thanks for the question.
100% what is currently wrong with my car. Replacing valves today. But what is also noteworthy, is what actually causes valves to burn...and it's a faulty fuel injector..
That paper towel idea is just brilliant
The paper towel technique is actually genius
cheers
Great video with no bs. That paper towel tip is gold!!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks man I had this issue but needed reassurance and you gave me that thanks again
Thank you 🙏🏾 this was spot on what was happening to my car
Holy shit I never realized this was your channel, amazing content as always!
cheers buddy.
Amazing video thanks I'll definitively do those two tests on my car tomorrow
Could a less defective, non sealing valve cause a "firecracker/gunpowder" smell from the exhaust by letting unburnt fuel land on the catalytic converter?
My car starts well, but has a little hickup when I punch the throttle and it smells gunpowdery sulfury from the exhaust when engine reaches operating temperature.
Short and straight to the point, I like it
Cheers
I love this video man, very helpful. I have a e46 N42 engine I replaced all spark plugs changed valve seals, head gasket and bad the bad coil. All cylinders are misfiring. The mechanic did not check for bad valve when he pulled the head. This will help me to test if there were any bad valve.
So what was it mate?
@Light Roast Coffee An electrical issue is always suspect number one and easier to check first.
Thank you very very much, I had this problem in my Nissan Patrol, I thought it was a bad injector but, after seeing this video, I found that exhaust valve N° 3 cylinder doesn't close completely so the compression was low resulting in white smokes and engine was shaking so bad until it warms up. thank you again.
Glad it helped
What was the reason for valve 3 not closing properly?
clear and to the point - thank you
Great video thanks. Back in the day we would use the card board off a book of matches. I haven't gotten to work on a car engine other than a race engine sense 1983. I have seen it try to suck that thin card board up and back out. Keep up the great work see you in the next video thanks again
Thanks for the comment. I love the simpler old school tricks and tips.
Did the paper towel trick on 2 cars. This actually was a helpful tip
Thanks
Awesome thanks
I will do it on my car just tomorrow
@@Khusta...Ngcupe the one with a bad exhaust valve sucked the towel in and the one with rebuilt heads didn't. So in short it...the paper towel trick works
@what nite good point...kinda like a crack in a drinking straw
Thanks a lot for detailed explanation. Greeting from Turkey
Glad it was helpful and G'day from Australia
Very good information. I have this problem right now with my car .thanks
Hey mate, just a question.
My bike, honda cbr 600 rr 2004, is lately stalling in neutral at stops even clutched in and also while riding will lose power for a second or two or will jerk forward sometimes as I'm deccelerating.
Do you have any idea what that might be?
Thanks
I have my cylinder head off, burnt and damaged exhaust valve in cylinder 4. Question…what is the likely culprit for oil on the corresponding piston? The other two pistons had basic carbon buildup, but cylinder 4 had oil on it.
Thank you for the video. It was very helpfull
Thanks for the video. When you take the engine apart, would you just fix the damaged valve or replace all exhaust valves? Does it depend on value/age of car? Difficulty of job?
Yes it does it depend on value/age of car but its the best option to change them all.
Have a jeep liberty the cat was clogged and recently replaced it now it still runs rough . Getting rich code on driver side does that sound like a burnt valve from the clogged cat? I’ve tried everything plugs coils vacuums fuel injectiors and o2 sensors
Would a burnt or crack valve cause a misfire? My truck has a misfire on one cylinder and exhaust in that bank does suck in paper.
Thought my issue was head gasket. But obviously something was going on inside as well. Rough running and lost power while driving until I hit the shoulder. It wouldn’t crank back up for me. Tore it apart and had 5”the head resurfaced (it was warped pretty bad he said but gauge never read real hot). Put everything back together with new plugs, wires, other gaskets, radiator (blew a hole in the radiator when truck starting running rough the day it quit on me). Now I’m suspecting something more serious because after the head gasket job was done, it would start but run terribly rough. And now smokes from behind the engine. And there’s also a noise you can hear that kinda sounds like manifold leak but it’s coming from driver side 1998 s10 2.2. Leaning towards valves. Should’ve checked that when I done the job but I’m not a big mechanic honesty. Everything else went pretty smooth
Did you ever find that chunk of valve that was missing?
If the valve is faulty will it take longer to crank?
Thanks mate how do we diagnose bad rings
Can this cause damage to the piston or any componenets in the block?
Thanks for the explanation.
no problem
How much does something like that cost to do relaxer?
Thanks for the great video. I've learned something new.
Glad it was helpful!
Good video. What causes a burnt out valve like this? The valve not seating properly? I hav a 523i that has done the same thing. Its runs hydraulic lifters, could one of them be bad?
It could be from the lifter but usually from Carbon buildup, Physical valve damage (broke valve seat, bent valve, etc), Sticking at the valve guide, Broken, damaged, or weak valve spring. Anything that prevents a perfect seal and allows a leak to start.
Clear and concise. Thanks a lot.
thanks mate...just what i needed
Awesome thanks for the comment.
Can a cylinder have good compression but still during a leak down test leak exhaust air compressed air out the tail plate
Thanks for your wise words my friend
Very welcome!
I have seen the same symptom. The exhaust and spark plugs excess carbon deposits confirmed that the valves were the problems.
thanks for the comment
Is there a way to adjust the timing without marks? I took the chain out and my stupidity allowed me to turn the the sprocket s individually, which turned the cams. Now I have no idea where I am at. Call me an idiot because I am. 2015 Chev malibu 2.5
Great video. Thanks
Also good videos good explanation I would like work on my own car if I have a garage
thanks
What are the causes of this engine break
That's tip with the exhaust is great, checked my car and it looks good, but I know it has other ring issues. What caused the valve to burn like that?
Poor fuel, Sticking tappets, Sticking valve guides, Incorrect tappet clearances, Excessive carbon deposits, Overheating. Could be one or more of these. Thanks for the question
@@killawattgarage I'm starting MMO treatment - hope I caught this before the exhaust valve damage. I'll do that exhaust test.
Thank you for the informative video. I have a 2004 honda pilot with 259k miles. It's misfiring from multiple cylinders, has problems starting, runs idle and has slow acceleration. I had a compression test done and cylinder 6 had 30psi (I think the normal range is above 140psi). The spark plug in the cylinder had lots of carbon on it and finally, there was a leaking exhaust valve. I was advised to change the engine, which is quite expensive, as opposed to repairing it. What's the best approach here? Is it something I can repair and if so, do I need to take out the whole engine?
With that many miles, overall the car would be getting well worn. It is not a smart financial decision to pay to rebuild the engine. A good low mile engine could be put in within a day and would be the cheapest way to get the car going again.
@@killawattgarage Thank you. I'll replace it.
Went to change the valve stem seals and found worn camshaft and rockers. Changed the lot and cleaned gummed up hydraulic lash adjusters. Now have intermittent symptoms shown in your video at idle. Any advice?
What make and model?
Would burnt valve cause white smoke
I had the same problem on a 318 is. At cylinder number 3. I never find the mising parts from the valve. And was i litle bit harder to find new valves. I find one only one. And while i was laping them i noticed one of the older valves has a litle scratch on the head when valve seats at cylinder head. Any idea how to fix that. I need a faster response since im going to finish the car on sunday
Hi and thanks for the comment, send a picture to my instagram account and I will be able to see whats going on. just google Killawattgarage to find me.
What causes burnt valve and csn it happen again
What can be the cause of this?
I have a 99 Civic, it had a bad cat that got replaced and went bad again, it has black carbon soot out of the tail pipe, loses about 1/2 qt oil every week or so. Car has no major oil leaks and I did a compression test compression was really good, what could be causing my problem?
Sorry for the slow reply I hope it is now fixed. High oil consumption will either be the oil control rings or value guides. You can try using thicker oil too.
Got an interesting one, did your test with the paper over exhaust, car was running a little shakey. Did a comp tests on all 6 cylinders and they are all the same around 130 psi. Cant put my finger on it
Any codes or check engine light?
Did you figure it out?
Wouldn't that small chunk of valve metal normally damage the piston I'm wondering?
Typically when a section has been burnt off the exhaust valve it has occurred in a similar process to a gas welder. The combustion flame/heat escapes past the valve and valve seat and burns through a section with the flow going out the exhaust port. I hope that makes sense.
Would you happen to know if this problem is frequent in 4.2 i6 motors, their in the envoys, trailblazers, and afew others
Mine runs alittle shitty and my mechanic said its crank, cam, o2 sensor, thermostat, coils, plugs and a shift solenoid so I’m in the middle of swapping that but I hope this isn’t really the problem lol
let me know how it goes.
Hi. Thanks for your video. That with the cloth I don't know it and love it. Thanks.
Can you help me with an 4 stroke engine, please?? It got 2 admition valves and 2 exaut valves. Has new valves and new retenair but I got lots of smoke with oil at the exhaust aut. So the problem only can be at the valve guide. But the can't identify witch guides are broken. The 2 admition valves are OK, clean. Tne 2 guides of exhaust aut are full of coal. Can you tell me please witch guides I must change??
Many thanks. And cart on with the channel.
Have you done a compression test? The rings may be worn.
@@killawattgarage yes,I did it. The problem it was with the 2 exault guides. Thanks.
@ Glad you fixed it
in this case how did the piston and the cylinder walls look?
I'm curious as well. Where did the broken valve piece go? Will it cause more damage while running?
so if the exhaust valve is burnt, what is the fix?
can you replace just the valve, or do you need a new engine, or do we need some other fix?
Replace engine would be eazy than rebuilding.
Just waiting to find out exactly whats wrong with my mazdadpeed 6.. i only had the car for 1 day and I have no compression in cylinder 3.. its alrwdy towed away so I cant test the exhaust sucking back into the pipe. But my engine reacted the exact same ways I gave a feeling its an exhaust valve not piston rings.
Either way it sound like the head will need to come off to inspect. Bad luck that you had it only for a day. Hope it get repaired quickly and without too much $$$
I have a 5.4l 3v with intake and exhaust valve leaking how you go about repairing it
Remove and inspect the valves and inspect the valve seats. Most likely they will need to be machined or replaced. Thanks for the question.
@@killawattgarage thanks
Sir i Have 3 cylinder engine with Old skool roker arm tappet type .... That rocker tip has gone way down with alot of threads moved down towards valve where they meet does it indicates that my valve have wear n tear from upper side
Sounds like a lot of wear at the point of contact between the tip of the rocker arm and the tip valve and also the camshaft. Once you have gone past the point of maximum adjustment it will be time for replacement rocker arms, camshaft etc...
@@killawattgarage no no sir i think valve need to be replaced
@@killawattgarage rocker arm tip is okay
@@hammadmadi4285 Well then the heads gotta come off and lots of work ahead.
I have a 99 Dodge Ram 1500 that has a slight crinkle/rattle sound when I accelerate between 1000 and 2000 rpms. Could this also be a valve?
Sorry for the slow reply, is it sorted?
@@killawattgarage Not yet. I’ve been debating on trying this valve repair stuff you add to the oil but I’m hesitant. It’s not a loud noise but I do notice it and it’s really only noticeable during heavy acceleration
@@colinlacrue7440 try a simple fix first and give it a full service
My 95 tacoma for sure I have the problem any clue on cost to Fix
We don't have the Tacomas in Australia but if the head is coming off your looking at a $1000+
a bit of a disaster last week..i lost my coolant due to drain plug coming loose,however it didnt damage the engine because it runs on lpg and when you lose coolant the lpg shuts down..anyway called out the AA ,in England that is a vehicle recovery organisation..i asked the mechanic to check the compression while he was there...finds 3 cylinder was low compression,goes into cab and put its foot right down on the accelerator,swiches off engine takes out spark plug to look at it,leaves it out then makes a quick exit,says he's got to go o another job..i put spark plug back and starts the engine..loud growl and shake and engine will start n o more..was this because the mechanic high revved it? i know my valve wasnt too good but the engine did go and would have gone on alot longer
ps ive heard an oil called Marvel mystery oil can free a seized engine...but i think mine may be too far gone..is it worth trying?
I assume it has a dual fuel option. I would start by trying to get it running on petrol just to eliminate any issues with your LPG setup. Another compression test would be a good idea as the one performed by the AA sounds as if it was rushed. I also want to question the setup that shuts off the car due to coolant loss, as this is not common in Australia?
the van only runs on lpg,its done 200k miles all on lpg...when it lost coolant the vaporiser just froze up..lots of ice around it,the gas freezes...the van was idling ok after putting back the coolant like it was before,ive researched about high revving engines while standing still and they say it can cause alot of damage..the coolant was still cold when he revved it up
@@steve-r-collier Ok. High revving without load is not great and unnecessary. Start with a compression test and see how that goes.
what if the compression test is good at all cylinders but car still missfires and suck clothes at exhgaust ?
Sticking valves, bad timing ..... the list could go on. Tell me more.
Will a bad exhaust valve cause any of these symptoms? I hope someone can help me. I have a 2000 honda crv b20z2 awd. I keep getting a misfire code. I recently bought the car. Did full tune up and fluid change on the vehicle. I also keep getting a dragging noise that comes and goes. I can be going down the street normal. Then when I press the gas to accelerate the dragging noise will happen. As soon as I let go of the gas. It stops. Even if I'm cruising. The noise is only there when I press on the gas. Any help would be appreciated.
Swap the coils and spark plugs from the misfiring cylinder and see if the code changes to other cylinder, if it does then your coil or plug is at fault if not, then check compression across all cylinders. More checking will need to continue from here. Not sure about the dragging sound...start by jacking up the car and spinning each wheel. Listen for any unusual sounds.
@@killawattgarage I had zero compression in one cylinder. I'm swapping the motor now to a jdm b20b. Still not sure what the sound is. Since the car is in the shop. We put it on the lift tho, and cant see anything wrong with it. Will see if the sound continues af tr er the swap.
I have a Daihatsu Sirion 1.3 102 ps but it doesn't want to start. I bought it with a problem last ignited on 2 cylinders, I realized this after I changed the spark plugs, when I checked them only 2 were black. The engine worked for 5 minutes and turned off since then does not want to start at all. There is a spark and fuel but does not start. I replaced the camshaft sensor and crankshaft with new ones. The injectors are new to the computer and it has been replaced but no change. I measured the compression it is between 8 and 9 bar. Please help me I have no more ideas where the problem is 2 weeks I can not start the engine. 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
Are the plugs wet after a period of trying to start it?
@@killawattgarage Not because I checked the current of the four jacks for the ignition coils and it showed me 1.3 volts
I've been to 4 garages or more for repairs, but my engine is still misfiring on cyl 4. No one can figure it out, everyone is speculating at this point. I've replaced injectors, coils, spark plugs, ground wires, alternator, throttle body, high pressure fuel pump, compression is 175psi across the board. What can it be...
What car and engine?
I'm having this same issue. Changed out same things. Except my problems started first from cracked valve seals and oil getting in. Obviously changed seals then everything else. Still misfire on 4. When I switch the spark plugs and coils around it buys me a little drive time no issues but again. Cylinder 4!?! I have a 2006 honda oddyssey
how much would be a fair rate to do that level of work to a truck?
Different countries have hugely different rates.
Do you think it broke the valve due to not having it adjusted properly?
A badly adjusted valve or leaking valve seats can cause the exhaust valve to burn out
Did the piston recieve any damage?
Very often with burnt exhaust valves there is no damage to the piston as the missing sections of exhaust valve are burnt away with the combustion gases flow out the exhaust ports. Thanks for your question.
@@killawattgarage Very good to know. Thanks!
Is it usually exhaust valves that burn out more than intake valves?
Yes it's the exhaust valves only as they see significant more heat and don't receive the cooling effect of the intake air/fuel mix passing over them. Thanks for the question.
@@killawattgarage I have a 5.4l 3v engine with intake and exhaust valve leaking how would I go about fixing it
Santos Garcia Did you ever figure the problem out
@@montraycheers8629 i put that project on hold but from what I search ppl been lapping the vales and putting them back in the heads checking it for leaks and running with it i ask about this engine to so many people and they give me different answers
@@santosgarcia9499 ..... Well for starters I wouldn't recommend that you do it if your NOT a mechanic because if you don't know what your doing you could make matters alot worse than they already are. Example would be Like getting lapping compound into your valve slides and ruining your valves and possibly your pistons! So do yourself a favor and take it to a reputable garage please.
Good idea
many thanks
Great vid. But I wonder what may have caused this? Could you explain that please?
when there is a leak in the exhaust pipes/system, it eventually kills the valves, due to heating/cooling cycling between massive temperatures different from the other parts around it.
mine failed, for example, because of rust. rust makes all the bolts weak. when bolts holding the exhaust manifold ever break, it creates a leak in the exhaust manifold, where the gasket is. That is an exhaust leak, and the air then gets in that way, and that is already a breach and will cause those great temperature differences as you run the engine and turn it off and park it... then drive it again, etc. Over a long time, it'll eventually kill the exhaust valves.
That is the theory.
High exhaust pressure will burn valves rather quickly. That's usually caused by a clogged cat. If the preasure gets high enough the engine will start to knock and eventually the engine will turn into a bunch of smaller pieces.
Nice
Wow I can't believe that valve had such a huge chunk missing
But what Causes the valve to crack
Poor fuel, Sticking tappets, Sticking valve guides, Incorrect tappet clearances, Excessive carbon deposits, Overheating. Could be one or more of these. Thanks for the question
I have the same issue but when I did the compression test, it showed good results throughout the 4 cylinders. Why is that?
Did u figure it out?
@@barbiebb5213 actually did. Turns out these symptoms happen to literally any car I tried. After tearing engine down and rebuilding, it still happened.
U have any abd code, check engine light?
@@barbiebb5213 no codes. Is your car suffering from anything?
@@farhan7393 yes unfortunately,
P0303 misfire.
New ECU, new ignition coils, spark plugs... Compresion god
And still i have misifre.
I've known about the plastic shopping bag trick for years. Can use a paper towel also.
Mine if I rev it it'll shut off when it revs back is that a burnt valve
I think I just got the same problem with my car now.
It has been driven with the "check engine" light coming on now and then, but it usually goes away after some time, but after 3 hours of driving one way with a lot of prolonged climbing on the motorway up and down, one of the valves seems to have bitten the dust.
I need to get this fixed.
I had to drive home again with 75 percent effect, but at least I got myself a good motorcycle, it's always good to have the freedom of choice and alternatives :)
thanks for the comment.
Wat kind of code did u get ? Will u get a miss fire
Definitely have a misfire at lower revs, but harder to notice once the revs build. A misfire code will be P030- with the last number being the cylinder misfiring. thanks for the question.
What about diesel? Same symptom?
Yes same symptoms
That's clever
Cheers, thanks for the comment.
Sounds like a 2CV on the compression test!
nice!!
100% what is currently wrong with my car. Replacing valves today. But what is also noteworthy, is what actually causes valves to burn...and it's a faulty fuel injector..
To lean or too rich, age, tappet clearance, excessive carbon etc ... many reasons
What caused that?
Age and overheating are the two main reasons.Thanks for the comment
you make it look so eazy
Thanks for the comment. Never easy just lots of practise.
👍
Cheers and thanks for the comment
half of the valve was missing 😂😂😂
is it possible it consumes oil?
YES BIG TIME
@@srte147 looks like i got the same problem the 3 piston cylinders are in good compression the other one is lower
It happens I’m dealing with the same problems
@@srte147 does the valves making noise too?
@@astralcomm7925 yes
The towel sounds like a helicopter
Edit : 0:54
haha
Just like the guys voice lol
No worries mate!
I am ready to pay by IBAN if someone contacts me by messenger or whatsapp with a camera and gives me ideas!
Cc
Time to buy a Tesla model 3
Does the engine smoke if the exhaust valve leaks? Thank you.
There may be a little smoke due to the misfire but not a significant amount. Just a few puffs at lower revs. Thanks for the comment.
Cc