Austin Allmond then you spray oil on you rear tyre from the chain. I never thought I'd drift a 125 until that day... Unfortunately leaks seem to be built in features on Italian bikes. Especially 2 strokes. The gear changing shaft rusted and so after cleaning it etc in a rebuild the shaft no longer has the diameter to make a good seal on that. At least not without some buggery. Bloody monkey metal.
Only ever used a small paint brush with 80/90 gear oil on my chains - keeps them much cleaner than the expensive sticky crap, which as you say, just ends up as an abrasive paste!
When I bought my first big bike the dealer recommended I use 80W-90 to lubricate the chain, which I did. I kept doing that when I bought my second bike. I lubed the chain every 2-500km, the chain on that second bike lasted until I sold the bike 30k km later and it was still in pretty good condition. So I won't deny that gearbox oil works like a charm, but boy was it a hassle. I used that bike 7 days a week for commuting to work and I was lubing the chain several times per week, and every day when it was raining. Working shifts and not having a garage (or even a driveway) I was often lubing that chain on the street in near-freezing temperatures late at night. The oil also got everywhere, including the back of my jacket. When I got my third bike I insisted it be equipped with a scottoiler, just so I could cut down on that daily maintenance. Unfortunately I completely relied on that scottoiler to keep my chain in good condition, I didn't clean it nearly as much, and often during/after rain I ran the chain dry assuming the scottoiler would take care of everything. One year and 20k km later that chain was completely ruined. So I replaced the chain and from then on I would try and clean the chain about once per month, and took the time to lube it by hand (from a Castrol chain lube spray can) whenever I rode in the rain of the chain looked dry for whatever reason. That chain ended up lasting me about 30k km. As an aside that Castrol chain lube is about the best chain lube from a spray can I ever used, seemed to stick enough not to be flung off, while not being sticky enough to collect all sorts of gunk, though it didn't last very long on the chain. It was also colourless rather than leaving a ghastly white residue like some chain lubes. Anyway, even though a scottoiler is by far not the best or a fool proof solution and will still require some maintenance on your end, if you use your bike on an almost daily basis I'd still recommend it. Having said that, I just sold that bike and got a bike with a driveshaft. I'm quite happy to not have to deal with lubing a chain any time soon again. :p
Scott oilers, the best way to move the crap from the chain to the rest of your bike without the need to stop. Bring back open valve spings to complete the oilskin look.
same thing i say to my friends...stick to the damn manufacturer's instructions. i bought my last bike used with 24k km on it. the previous owner was using some lube spray, and the chain adjusters were already tightened almost to the max. i knew that chain was done anyway, so i kept using a spray he gave me (some Bluray sticky spray), which was also impossible to clean. i put new chain and sprockets at 34k and ONLY used gear oil (80w-90), which i always kept with me in a little bottle from a vaping liquid with a needle nose which made it super easy to apply. i was applying some oil every 200km. some say its too often, but i enjoyed feeling my chain lubed and healthy. now, i am at 51k and the chain is looking like new, it remains clean, and i still didnt have to adjust its tension after 17k km... thats all the proof i need personaly, that gear oil is THE BEST lubricant for our chains
Yep, 100%. Manufacturers actually spend a lot of time & money on researching & testing stuff like this & have no interest in selling chains & sprockets
I just lube my chains with engine oil and paint brush using a small amount, it's literally recommended in my FZ1's manual. That's when I realised how much money I was wasting on those flashy chain sprays lol. It's a shame you don't see those chain covers anymore which enclose it to stop crap getting on
I got rid of my chain and just kick the ground when I want to move forwards. No chain replacement ever, haven't filled my Scottoiler (TM) in years, *ZERO* chain replacement costs, and the shaft-drive mob HATE THIS TRICK. *thanks for the video
Best stuff I have ever used on a motorcycle chain is White Lightning, Clean ride chain lube. It dries after it is applied and flakes off as it becomes contaminated with dirt . It was designed for bicycle chain but I have been using it with great success for years on my motorcycle chains, an added bonus is that your bike/wheels do not get covered in old chain lube.
best lube i ever found was sold by ann summers - the other half has been chained to that sink with a nice shiney chain for ages (i do worry about it stretching so she can reach the key)
Not going to lie but that's probably the best video about chain maintenance I've seen. and no Matt that's not sarcasm lol, simple is better! When ever you see similar videos to this they just try and push you to buy expensive shit that runs off and only lasts two applications, deffo going to get some gear box oil and give it ago though.
I use chainsaw oil on my motorcycle and bicycle chain. Its designed to run in dirt and sawdust. Works for me and I like chainsaws lol. I think chain lube is a never ending shit storm of marketing wank. I have been using vasalene on my hedge cutter bars to protect in rain. I got the idea from your brake disc video and it works a treat. I know this is a motorcycle chanel but the content can be broadly used in all machinery and there is no agricultural machinery channels as good or funny as this one lol.
I ride dirt and after 15 years I've noticed the thing that has the greatest effect on chain longevity is keeping the chain at the correct tension. Too tight and it stretches prematurely. Too loose and it fish hooks the sprocket teeth, fucks up the whole drive-train and amplifies the elastic band effect on acceleration, which also leads to increased chain stretching. For years I used O-ring chains and I only sprayed them with Q20 light oil after washing to keep the chain from rusting and keep the o-rings supple. There was no noticeable difference in chain life between doing that and expensive chain lubes. For MX I run standard chains because they have less rolling resistance, and there I use Motul Off Road chain lube because there's fuckall lubrication otherwise. It flings off pretty quick, but that's ok because you can just reapply it between motos.
Watching this video again after 4 years and couldn’t agree more. I have used chain lube that thing is like glue thats hard to get rid of and every little crap sticks to it. Gear oil i find is the best option out there. But the trick lies in how you apply it.
Having visited the MX tracks for 30 years, the best chain oil is old motor oil. Soak it over night, longer is better. Let it drain off, into the original container. This will last day at the race track. Also buy your preferred can of lube and use it when necessary. Soaking is cheap and last longer than just canned chain lube. 30 yrs at the track.
Time & time again, yet more common sense from Matt!, I've used the toothbrush and gear oil for the last 25 yrs and thousands of miles. Recently though, I've used chainsaw oil, like a few have commented here, with good results too. The secret is to clean your chain regularly with an old toothbrush, dishwash detergent and an old washing up bowl, hose it down to remove detergent residue & blow dry with some compressed air or dry with old cloths, check each roller rotates freely with your fingers, then apply gear oil or chainsaw oil with a clean toothbrush. After the 1st ride, just wipe any flung lube from the chain guard or your rim. Easy really.
I like to use WD-40 on my chains. Gets the water out after washing them so I can apply gear oil once it dries out. I just throw the gear oil into one of those oil dripper bottles, and apply a drop to every link on the chain. Spin the wheel a bit, wipe it down with a rag so you don't fling oil over everything and go for a ride.
I've run a scottoiler for a bit now, and I have to say: different riding (commuting, touring, trackday) will cause the bike to radically change how much oil is put down. You have to adjust it quite often. Most of the time I'm on the lowest setting possible and it is just enough to keep from spraying the wheel and having enough lube on the chain to keep it lubed. I've found that with the scottoiler, it keeps the chain cleaner longer and is so much easier to wipe down when you do need a cleaning (every 1500 miles or so)
My friends dad a former airplane mechanic ( later worked for Koeningsegg) he used to warm oil in a big pan, then put a very clean chain in it. Let it sit for a while, then let it cool down to room temperature. Pull it out and let exess oil drain from it. Wipe it of and then it would go for quite a while on his Honda.
One problem with chain oilers is that they generally put on too much. One I made had a 50cc tank and that would last about a month of regular use (the bike was my only vehicle and I lived in the arse end of of nowhere). The back wheel did get a little more dirty than the front but I seldom cleaned the bike so that's no real surprise. An oiler won't make much difference in chain life compared to regular maintenance but it is a shit load less hassle. Tap the chain with the toe of your boot once a week to check tension and adjust if needed then top up the tank once a month. Job done.
The wax crap is a pain in the ass. It'll pick up all the dirt as you said BUT is a MAJOR PAIN to get off. Moved to simple gear oil, seems to work well. Comes in 80W90 and similar ratings.
My mechanic is always telling me to get a scottoiler as I don't have a car and drive every day in all weathers. I bought a second hand gsx650f now and was thinking about getting one but to be honest I got 12k miles from the chain on my cb-1 and treated it like shit. Once a year 100 quid for a nice clean new chain and sprocket set is to me a lot less hassle than fucking about cleaning it all the time because I live a mountain road covered in shit.
Excellent video! Spoken in plain terms, no techy bollocks, made a lot of good old common sense, and proportionate dropping of the occasional F-bomb! Very useful video, which also gave me a laugh! Subscribed!
I was using the sticky spray stuff since it wasn't supposed to fling off. I would wipe off excess and it would still end up all over the place. My wheels are polished and I like them clean. That stuff is hard to clean off. I started using 80w 90 and my chain and wheels stay cleaner and it's much easier to remove. I think the chain will last longer too.
Well done Matt, I clean bikes for a motorcycle dealership, Scot oiler and people who over oil there chains is the bain off my life, complete fucking mess, people seem to think you need to dump half a can of chain lube on it every week, and never clean it between lube's, I've used gear oil for years, Dealership like the wax, because it's salesmanship, shows it's been done. Clean with mild soapy water! I wish, 2 liters off degreaser More like.
Good video. My personal method after trying nearly everything is WD 40. Apply a little almost daily and clean with....... wait for it....WD 40 once or twice a month. Minimal fling on the wheels which I then clean with - you guessed it - WD 40! You're welcome
On very old bicycles and mopeds they used to have a closed box around the chain and on some bicycles you could fill them with oil so the chain would always pick up oil on the return stroke
Exactly, doesn't seem to be factory standard or everybody immediately takes them off their bike, took me a bit of google search to find it (YAMAHA XV920 XV 920 R VIRAGO CHAIN DRIVE HUB ASSEMBLY)
If modern chains are sealed ie x ring o ring then they dont need oiling, but the chain still rusts so needs a quick wipe of oil to thinly coat the exterior, ive been using this theory and my gold chain looks like new still, just my view and its works for me, its not like iam a super chain expert like Delbodge.
I really hate the waxes for the reasons you stated. I've been using a light amount of the good stuff from Bel Ray Blue Tac. Doesn't attract near the crud any waxy stuff does, keeps the chain quiet and rust free, and does what it's supposed to do. Only takes a light spritz on either side where the side plates meet the rollers/seals. That's it. Clean now and then, touch of lube now and then. For the power addicted who are after maximum HP at the wheel, waxes will have high viscosity and drag between the links. Energy loss through a heavily waxed chain will be somewhat significant. Use oil instead.
Use gear oil on my 600 Bandit,what my mechanic mate thinks was the original chain lasted 26,000 miles,just replaced it's replacement,got almost exactly 20,000 miles out of that one and the sprockets were still not shagged,though obviously replaced them.Check and lube my chain weekly,bike is never laid up either which I'm sure makes a difference.
I used to get about 15k miles out of a chain on one of them using the used engine oil from it in a cheap oiler. Totally didn't cover the rear quarter of the bike in shit and make me do an unintentional powerslide coming off a roundabout.
My dad gave me an old tub of chain wax its about the same size as a dinner plate you put the chain in it and place it on a hot stove and let the chain sink in then lift it out and let it dry job done 👍🏼
I like Bell Ray Chain Lube with Molly in it .. It's more critical to lube a non 0-ring chain than an o-ring chain A Lube Sales Man treid to show me how great his Fina Oil was and the Bel-Ray was as good as better .. just a simple friction on a ball test
My end game for lube is something that doesn’t kill rubber o-rings and keeps rust off the chain without being sticky. Care nothing about slippery properties. Steel sprockets last long enough. Right now I am liking the new WD40 specialist gel. Keeps rust away for a long time, doesn’t fling, sprays like foam, and doesn’t get sticky.
....and for second place I choose gear or engine oil. Like you said, wax is stupid to clean will attract everything including stray cats. Oil is perfect for the job and cheapest. Just flings a bit the first ride out.
LoL it's Always best to Lube-up otherwise there will be complaints! I agree about the "Constant Dribble" from Oilers, also I've never understood why some "Oil" is "Sticky" when it Should be Slippery! Bikes are pretty much open to the environment so they Need regular maintenance / observation / attention especially where it's So close to the Road / Dirt etc!
I always hear these miraculous stories about the Scott oiler making your chain last forever. But I never see those stories in real life. On my next bike I'd like to try one just to see if it actually does something. I'd only oil it slightly after a ride. And oiling a pile of dirt on your chain won't do much, true! You make a great point about the oilers. People that use them stop taking care of their chain.
LOL, I don't need to oil a chain since I have a driveshaft on my bike... But I used to use S100 when I needed to. But that was a mess to get of the rim. Put the SAE 80-90 in the scott oiler system that is cheaper then scott oil oil oiling the oil on the oily chain.
I love it. Nicely done.. I stick with WD-40 for cleaning for many reasons, and I am switching from wax to gear oil. But if you do not service it I know from experience that in a thousand miles it will be crap and you will be replacing it..... I found out the hard way hahaha
After watching all your experiments and tests with various lubricants and surface protectants , I was pretty surprised to note there was no mention of Wurth products. I am guessing because they are only available via a sales rep although here in Australia there are some scattered factory sales outlets that do sell over the counter. I’ve used Wurth tools, chemicals and lubricants for over 35 years in the Auto trade and more recently on bikes. Their Brakeclean, Rost Off (surface protectant/penetrant) and HSS2000 (spray grease) are far superior to anything I’ve ever used. I’m sure you must have come across them at some point. Cheers. Paul.
I installed a Cobbra Nemo 2 or whatever it's called. Nice little reservoir on the handlebar, little turn (roughly half of the quarter turn suggested in their instructions) every whatever miles and it keeps the chain decent. Just simple gear oil.
I remember 1st bike I felI for super- sticky moly chain lube schtick. Just to be sure it was clean for the moly to coat I washed it off thoroughly with degreaser. Sure enough, a couple of weeks later the chain was totally fucked, O rings are not designed for that level of abuse. We live & learn.
Really great video. I watched Ryan at fortnine and he said the same as you. I have to say I have a scottoiler and find it great but it took time to set it up to avoid excess spray and I have to say sometimes there are occasions when it does get a bit messy if I forget to turn the setting down. I also clean my bike regularly but always clean the chain as well as let's be honest its a chainsaw near your legs, so I always clean it off and then get a tooth brush and put some scottoiler oil just to reapply lubrication to the chain. I got a scottoiler in the end because of the long trips I do but if I wasn't doing long trips regularly, of course before lockdown then I would definitely recomend using gear oil. I used spray lubes for ages and the grinding paste created even over a week of winter riding is surprising. Great video and I look forward to seeing more. P.S. earnest if you have read this comment, the video and my comment is an opinion lol.
Just a note on Scot oilers. I had an Xt660t and used it all winter. Before I put the scot oiler on it the chain was needing adjusting constantly and I was getting maybe 1,000 miles a chain.. after putting the kit on the bike.. yes rear wheel was shitted up big style but adjustments went to monthly and when I sold the bike that chain had 3000 miles of abuse on it and still had plenty of life left in it. I did tweak the oil used however with a little (5%) Activ8 oil additive. And initially applied it onto a warmed chain (+50 degrees C). The chain was nothing special just your usual plain DID jobbie.
I agree with you. The o ring chains seem to die quicker deaths when they attract dirt and sand. Fact is they have a relatively short life and once damaged are just plain done. No product will protect from this fact or repair it. The racers appear to have new chains every race because if they can they do.
The Workshop The first 100 miles on any new chain is smooth bliss. It makes everything feel SO much better. And then its just a chain until it wears out.
Gearbox oil is exactly what I used sparingly with a tooth brush. Agree with waxes also except Wurth high performance dry chain lube. I use this now as its really good, non sticky. Though if using a daily bike I would go back to gear oil.
I admit, I didn't know how a Scot oiler worked until I bought one, after thinking about it I realised it would be dumping oil even if I wasn't moving. I know it may not be much oil but I didn't like the idea and pipe to the carb and other bits about it so I sold it and bought a Pro Oiler, more expensive but it triggers off the speedometer pulse so only delivers oil on movement and you've got a huge range between min & max. I'll get round to fitting it one day.
Tried wax when i started riding, ended up with a film of rust on the chain? Use Wurth lube now it seems to work OK. Although when I get round to replacing the lube may try this instead. Cheers Matt.
Yeah. I tried the Chameleon oiler. It is nice for long trips when there is rain when you have it dialed in, but if you are like me and only wash your bike like 2x a season, the rear wheel gets a lot of crap, and some gets flung under the seat/side left side case. Seem to get about 15k miles out of my chains till they are at the 'stretch' limit, and o/x/whatever-rings are starting to fall apart at that point from never washing things. I have noticed not running the oiler, the sprockets get chewed up a little faster from not cleaning/lubing the chain as much as I should, but that is entirely anecdotal and the last year hasn't exactly been my normal commuting routine and trips.
There is metal to metal contact, and oil DOES create a film on the rubbing surfaces. It's a thin one but it's there and it does have a lubricating effect. And whilst the surface tension of oil on metal parts is different from the surface tension of oil on say your hands or your mum's sofa..., there IS still a real lubricating effect. And if anyone doubts this, get a strong magnifying glass out and have a close look at those shiny bits. Or just wipe a roller with a clean finger. Use a small child for this operation, they're easily convinced they're playing a vital roll and don't need paying :)) The other proof that direct constant oiling systems are obviously a good idea: look at what happens to chainsaws if you run them dry. Yes, there's pressure and lateral wear on at least three surfaces of the bar. But chainsaws oil their chains with direct constant oiling systems - from the inside out. And that's the best way to oil a bike chain. But if you haven't got a ScottOiler, oil it on the botom of the loop, first by turning the wheel backwards, then repeat the process forwards. When you eventually discover nasty black oil splatters on the rim, it's proof that the oil has passed through the chain at some point, and collected some shit on the way. Wipe it off with a paper towel and be satisfied you didn't neglect one of the most important components on your bike. None of this applies if you have a Honda GoldWing or CX, Velocette LE, Valiant or Vogue, a Douglas Dragonfly, BMW boxer or MV 750s. I know there are more, but I can't be bothered to fucking list them.
You're forgetting the point to point contact. As the rollers contact the sprocket the oil is 'squished' for lack of a better word out of the way. After the vast majority of this oil is removed the chain material itself is then worn away taking the rest of the oil with it. An example is cam chains, they have constant oil but the chain still wears and stretches. Hence the need for a cam chain tensioner.
The Workshop you wrote: "You're forgetting the point to point contact. As the rollers contact the sprocket the oil is 'squished' for lack of a better word out of the way. After the vast majority of this oil is removed the chain material itself is then worn away taking the rest of the oil with it." I'm not forgetting that bro. I'm aware that the lubricating effect of what oil does remain is small, but it's real. An example is cam chains, they have constant oil but the chain still wears and stretches. Where precisely does the wear take place? Inside the rollers? Then that oil is constantly being moved around in there. "Hence the need for a cam chain tensioner." :) don't be naughty. We both know the primary importance of the camchain tensioner is to provide accurate valve timing by maintaining constant drive by eliminating backlash and chain lash as the engine accelerates and decelerates. It also reduces the clatter noises associated with loose chains. In practice the tensioner increases the constant pressure between the chain links and the chain wheels, thus actually increasing the possibility of wear. If the chain was looser (and not tensioned) it would necessarily wear less. Ergo the tensioner actually contributes to the wear of camchains, hence the NEED for constant lubrication. This brings me to my favourite drive systems: gears for cams, and shafts for final drives. Both eliminate the issues we re discussing here. This in turn raises the thorny issue of what would be the perfect bike engine. Possibly it might be a gear driven inline (as opposed to transverse) pre 2001 VFR style V4 with a CX or BMW shaft drive. Arguments against involve alleged less efficiency, increased upswung weight of the drive arm (that could be mitigated with a single sided swingarm in modern materials, an inability to vary ratios aftermarket, and the acknowledged increase in out thrown weight of the cylinders. However, the exhaust solutions would actually be simpler than the VFR's transverse arrangement, and the fuel side would be totally unaffected, except for the possibility of a healthy increased airflow up there. The arguments in favour are many, varying from the obvious efficiency, compact arrangement and pleasant drive capability of a V4, to the evidence of the VFR's sales success - which surely can't be due to its looks, or its weight. The recall issues Honda was experiencing with camchain tensioners long before they launched the VFR, as well as since they dropped the super reliable can drive gear drive, all serve to support this design concept. Yes, I went of topic!!! I do that:) But I did just give you a theme for a vid...!:)
ive never spent more the £150 for a push bike never am i going to put £250 worth of kit on it although i an going to be checking every push bike now if i see one with it on it wont be on their for long
One question, two observations. What would you take with you if you went on a tour, and you didn't want to cart around your 2 pints of oil? Cleaning & lubricating every 500km is fine but it's important to consider the riding conditions. Mid-winter, clean the bastard weekly! The challenge is keeping the chain clean more than lubricated. Final point - that cycling dispenser got laughed out of a cycling forum I read - anyone who buys that is a muppet. Great vid champ.
"One question, two observations. What would you take with you if you went on a tour, and you didn't want to cart around your 2 pints of oil?" In this case a scottoiler is usually the way to go, like I said - they don't what is advertised - I just don't like them. And I don't go touring LOL
Interesting comment about the push bikes at the end, the world of chain lubes for pushbikes is a massive cash cow, muc off make one with glow in the dark pigment in the oil and a uv torch to check "coverage"
Through yeeaarrss of experience I've found out ChainWax is shite, the chain actually rusts! BelRay Chain Lube, an aerosol, is the best stuff for road & offroad chains. It will NOT fling off hence keeps the bike clean, and a lil spray at the end of a day is all it takes. Never used a ScottOiler but I also do not ride daily, especially not in sogging-wet Blighty lol
I use hot wax graphite for my off road bikes non oring put it on a stove boil it for 20 min then hang drip over pot to cool down comes out good not sticky
Matt. I ride motocross motorcycles and was wondering if using the oil would still be good. I assume that I would have to clean up the chain after a days ride because of the dirt buildup. If it is alright to use regular oil instead of chain lube in a can I’m definitely going that route. Thanks for all of your videos. On a side note I wore the Workshop tee shirt to the Anaheim Supercross last Saturday and a lot of people commented on it and know and watch your channel here in California. Your knowledge goes worldwide. 👍
Anything is better than nothing - and like I said - keeping it clean is usually more important. As for offroad stuff its not so much of a concern as the chain is always covered in shite lol And its crazy that people commented on the shirt - cheers dude
I use Corrosion X (HD) for mine, every month I clean and reapply which is definitely over 300km (I go 12 miles just to get to work) and I do this when I'm done using the bike for the day so it can sit... I live in florida, so Corrosion X is some battle tested stuff when it comes to preventing rust/corrosion, I use it on all my guns, and this seems to do fine for me. I don't know if like you say it doesn't provide any lubrication, I also tend not to think so cause there's a lot more force here than the slide or bolt on a gun, but for keeping it clean and corrosion free it seems to work fine.
You are dead right Chain oilers are a blast from the past my 1957/58 bikes have them fitted as standard drip feed from the oil tank to fully enclosed rear chain-case it works no shit on the non o ring chain or bike , my modern bike (2000 600cc i have had it from new :-) ) uses x ring its exposed ,so regular clean (when I remember to)with a brush wipe off with a rag ,wipe over with a waxy rag its average 17000 miles a chain and sprocket set riding to work all seasons.
What about castor based 2 stroke oil? That stuff is thick af, plus for the treehuggers out there, it's biodegradable. Won't work very well in freezing conditions though.
Yeah its called elongation or to elongate. Dictionary Elongate - synonyms: lengthen, stretch out, make longer, extend, broaden, widen, enlarge In other words if you make something longer then stretching is fine - people automatically jump to the conclusion that the metal is stretching - more on this in the video tomorrow....
To use "stretching" in the chain equation you may as well also use "compressing" in the same sentence. Just call it wear. If the chain only had 3 joints instead of 120+, it would be much less dramatic.
Oilers sound good on paper but as you said they constantly oil the chain. Big mess. Also I think I would become lazy and not look at the chain from time to time. As I oil it myself (500-800km) I check the chain health in the process. I use Ipone stuff, has a bit of vax in it but doesn't mop up shit from the road. For cleaning I use Ipone stuff made for that (I hope that it doesn't wash out the grease inside the chain, it should be made not to do that right??). Thanks for the info about oil and which SAE, I might try that.
Scottoilers, horses for courses I think. There are some myths and misinformation (or general misunderstanding), I find if you keep your chain lubed it doesn't matter what you use, sprays, scottoiler etc. Scottoilers make more sense when you do high miles, using the bike every day all year. People toothbrushing then lubing manually is all well and good, but try keeping that up all through winter, you need to do it every other day which gets old real fast. It is also more expensive, what is it 7 quid a can or so, you go through them very fast when your lubing most days. Scottoil is a tenner and that lasts a long time, 6 months or more. Pretty soon you have recouped the outlay for the oiler itself. Oil all over the bike/wheel, yeah you see that but it is 100% user error. It is very easy to adjust and again, using every day it only requires the odd "bit more, bit less" tweak now and then to correct it, I never have oil spatter on mine. I can see how someone who doesn't ride that often would have a badly adjusted oiler as they won't have this level of visibility to adjust it. People say that the oiler means you don't look after your chain/like to take a close look at it etc is nonsense. The oiler keeps your chain shiney bright all the time. My bike looks like its been dragged out of a brook during winter but the chain is shiney bright. You notice this every time you approach the thing so if the chain looks dull you know you need to take a look at it, you would have to make a conscious effort to not notice it. When you wash the bike you can still clean the chain with a brush etc then give it a coat of oil or spray, they are not mutually exclusive. It's a bit like declaring all motocross tyres are crap because they are not as good as sports tyres on the tarmac. They make sense in the right situations. I would not bother with one on a bike I don't use often as it is asking for hassle, blockages, badly adjusted etc they would be more trouble than they are worth (IMO).
Good video - O ring chains are effectively sealed for life to retain the internal oil. I'm no expert on chains of any kind but what about non-o ring chains ? I'm wondering if using a lighter oil with one of those scott oilers is intended to get oil into the internal bearing surfaces? This assumes there is sufficient side-ways clearance between the rollers and side links though I guess.
Make sure to wipe you oil off from the bottom or top in the opposite direction of rotation of the chain, or you can run the bike in gear and chop off your fingers with the rear sprocket if you don't need them anymore. I still have ten but I do know someone who doesn't.
P Kuudsk I know someone who did that once too. What possessed him to run the bike in gear I'll never fathom but losing the tip of your finger stops you doing it ever again.
I just clean it with kerosene (paraffin) when it's *really* dirty. 90 weight seems to fling most of the crap off. I made the mistake with that sticky, waxy shit like Belray. Not only is it like grit glue, it's damned hard not to get all over the place. You just can't do it on the road. A dropper of gear old and a towel works great on the road. But I will say that I've tried liquid Dupont Chainsaver. Seems to works well, dries slippery and is non-sticky. But it's expensive.
Never ever have an auto oiler on a push bike Jesus christ. Not only is that weight you have to push with your legs but I can't imagine that not over oiling the chain and if you're so lazy you can't do oil yourself you're probably too lazy to wash your chain either.
Chain Saw Bar oil would be good too as it is supposed to be anti fling off.. Bar oil comes in Summer and Winter weight t he summer would be close to the 80W -90 weight
@@robertbaxter4021 Any oil is better than no oil .. Some chain and open gear oils have solvents in them to make them flow easily then the solvent evaporaties .. and leaves something sticky behind.. I bought a case of Bel Ray chain oil 25 years ago it still works well it has Molley in it.. Some oils are more messy some fling off more.. Just oil your chain every day .. My street bike has the origional non o-ring chain with 8,500 miles on it still seems to be in very good shape sprockdets look good too .. dirt bike chains can wear much faster as sand is abraisive wears metal and absorbs the oil then falls off the chaim. I would say an O-ring chain has many more advanatages on a dirt bike than a street bike
@@robertbaxter4021 hmm I went on a multilple day trip and forgot to bring my small can of chain lube with me.. stopped into a Menards and bought a can of WD-40 Chain Lube seems to be very sticky seems to work very well .. The Bell Ray attracts diet too .. Oh and Bel-Ray has Molly in it .. a dry lubricant that is supposed to still work after the sticky stuff is gone..
I really don't think oil matters. Of the last 2 chains I bought 1 said 10w 40 the other 80w 90. I prefer the 10w 40 it's thinner so it makes the chain appear dry after a shorter period of time which gets me to clean and oil it more often.
@@dirtygarageguy you should run a bike on a dyno with a bone dry chain and take temperature readings and compare with other chain lubes. I've never seen a dry chain get hot from friction. Shit the more I think about it the lube is mostly there as a rust deterrent and to get your wheel dirty
What gets forgotten by companies like Scottoiler is how you ride your bike affects chain wear massively. So I ride like an old fart, moderate acceleration and not high speeds and no Scottoiler. My chain and sprockets will wear less than someone ragging it but using a Scottoiler. Example: I did 3000 miles in Europe and lubed my chain I think twice in that time, but rode at a relaxed pace. My chain only needed slight adjustment when I got back. If I'd ragged it around for those 3000 miles with a Scottoiler I'll bet the adjustment would have been more...I've got a Scottoiler on 1 bike and yes my chain is oiled and pretty clean, but for me, they look bloody awful cable tied to your swingarm. I've been going off them for years now and might even take it off and make chain clean and lube part of my regular maintenance. There's something to be said for that as opposed to the fit and forget attitude of having a Scottoiler which arguably discourages inspecting chain and the surrounding area..
So your saying that I'm wasting a whole lot of money on these expensive as fuck spray on lubes? If I knew I could buy a single bottle of gear box oil over the life of the chain, I would have saved a lot of money
My chain lube is muc off and it smells of blackcurrant. Can i add flavours to normal oil to make my bike smell nicer. I was thinking along the lines of strawberry or choc orange. Also can you do a video about power bands and which colour is fastest and if i take strokes away so its a two stroke will i have to add oil to my petrol? Who would win in a detect off? Columbo or Kojak? Thanks for the ace videos 🖒🖒
Oil on and lube off 3 times a week. Matts right keep an eye on your chain lube, and stretch, cuz a new chain stretches a lot. If ya ride every day you'll know exactly what matts gettin on with.
Been using gear oil for a couple of years now, (commute 200 miles a week motorways ect) applied once a week the ' flick off and replenish cycle' keeps the chain looking clean and nicely lubed. I'l never go back to overpriced sticky sprays. This is what i use and a fiver will get you a year supply of the stuff www.wilko.com/car-maintenance-products/comma-gear-oil-ep80w-90-gl4-1l/invt/0077164
What do you think about mixing some kerosene into into your gear oil before oiling the chain? Maybe it will seep in better and the Kerosene should evaporate. I suspect most spray chain lubes have a Kerosene (or similar hydrocarbon) solvent carrying thicker oil.
yes, if I remember correctly it was for chains without o rings, when hot it was thin so would seep into the inside of the rollers and then solidify when cold .
Stephen Hampson yep thatd the one. Last time I saw one was at a auto jumble. Guy wanted some stupid price for it. Because as we know every old bike still runs an old type chain. L9L.
I use a drip feed auto sytem,, it took a while to get the feed right, just use a basic chain oil, mine is an everyday ride,, TT 600 triumph with 120 000 klm,, give the chain a clean an adjust every 10k approx
Why pay out the ass for an automatic chain lubricator when a leaky gearbox will do the job for free?
Austin Allmond then you spray oil on you rear tyre from the chain. I never thought I'd drift a 125 until that day...
Unfortunately leaks seem to be built in features on Italian bikes. Especially 2 strokes. The gear changing shaft rusted and so after cleaning it etc in a rebuild the shaft no longer has the diameter to make a good seal on that. At least not without some buggery.
Bloody monkey metal.
@@samuelcurran714 What brand so i can avoid it?
@@1südtiroltechnik Cagiva
@@1südtiroltechnik honestly most cagiva 2 strokes have done a lancing and rusted to death by now so it isnt a worry.
Ryan F9 did a video on this and came to the same conclusion. Great to hear someone else saying the same thing!
Only ever used a small paint brush with 80/90 gear oil on my chains - keeps them much cleaner than the expensive sticky crap, which as you say, just ends up as an abrasive paste!
When I bought my first big bike the dealer recommended I use 80W-90 to lubricate the chain, which I did. I kept doing that when I bought my second bike. I lubed the chain every 2-500km, the chain on that second bike lasted until I sold the bike 30k km later and it was still in pretty good condition. So I won't deny that gearbox oil works like a charm, but boy was it a hassle. I used that bike 7 days a week for commuting to work and I was lubing the chain several times per week, and every day when it was raining. Working shifts and not having a garage (or even a driveway) I was often lubing that chain on the street in near-freezing temperatures late at night. The oil also got everywhere, including the back of my jacket. When I got my third bike I insisted it be equipped with a scottoiler, just so I could cut down on that daily maintenance. Unfortunately I completely relied on that scottoiler to keep my chain in good condition, I didn't clean it nearly as much, and often during/after rain I ran the chain dry assuming the scottoiler would take care of everything. One year and 20k km later that chain was completely ruined.
So I replaced the chain and from then on I would try and clean the chain about once per month, and took the time to lube it by hand (from a Castrol chain lube spray can) whenever I rode in the rain of the chain looked dry for whatever reason. That chain ended up lasting me about 30k km. As an aside that Castrol chain lube is about the best chain lube from a spray can I ever used, seemed to stick enough not to be flung off, while not being sticky enough to collect all sorts of gunk, though it didn't last very long on the chain. It was also colourless rather than leaving a ghastly white residue like some chain lubes.
Anyway, even though a scottoiler is by far not the best or a fool proof solution and will still require some maintenance on your end, if you use your bike on an almost daily basis I'd still recommend it.
Having said that, I just sold that bike and got a bike with a driveshaft. I'm quite happy to not have to deal with lubing a chain any time soon again. :p
Scott oilers, the best way to move the crap from the chain to the rest of your bike without the need to stop. Bring back open valve spings to complete the oilskin look.
same thing i say to my friends...stick to the damn manufacturer's instructions.
i bought my last bike used with 24k km on it. the previous owner was using some lube spray, and the chain adjusters were already tightened almost to the max. i knew that chain was done anyway, so i kept using a spray he gave me (some Bluray sticky spray), which was also impossible to clean. i put new chain and sprockets at 34k and ONLY used gear oil (80w-90), which i always kept with me in a little bottle from a vaping liquid with a needle nose which made it super easy to apply. i was applying some oil every 200km. some say its too often, but i enjoyed feeling my chain lubed and healthy.
now, i am at 51k and the chain is looking like new, it remains clean, and i still didnt have to adjust its tension after 17k km...
thats all the proof i need personaly, that gear oil is THE BEST lubricant for our chains
Yep, 100%. Manufacturers actually spend a lot of time & money on researching & testing stuff like this & have no interest in selling chains & sprockets
I just lube my chains with engine oil and paint brush using a small amount, it's literally recommended in my FZ1's manual. That's when I realised how much money I was wasting on those flashy chain sprays lol. It's a shame you don't see those chain covers anymore which enclose it to stop crap getting on
I got rid of my chain and just kick the ground when I want to move forwards. No chain replacement ever, haven't filled my Scottoiler (TM) in years, *ZERO* chain replacement costs, and the shaft-drive mob HATE THIS TRICK.
*thanks for the video
Best stuff I have ever used on a motorcycle chain is White Lightning, Clean ride chain lube. It dries after it is applied and flakes off as it becomes contaminated with dirt . It was designed for bicycle chain but I have been using it with great success for years on my motorcycle chains, an added bonus is that your bike/wheels do not get covered in old chain lube.
When in doubt - LARD!!!!
😂 deffo
best lube i ever found was sold by ann summers - the other half has been chained to that sink with a nice shiney chain for ages (i do worry about it stretching so she can reach the key)
Not going to lie but that's probably the best video about chain maintenance I've seen. and no Matt that's not sarcasm lol, simple is better! When ever you see similar videos to this they just try and push you to buy expensive shit that runs off and only lasts two applications, deffo going to get some gear box oil and give it ago though.
I use chainsaw oil on my motorcycle and bicycle chain. Its designed to run in dirt and sawdust. Works for me and I like chainsaws lol. I think chain lube is a never ending shit storm of marketing wank. I have been using vasalene on my hedge cutter bars to protect in rain. I got the idea from your brake disc video and it works a treat. I know this is a motorcycle chanel but the content can be broadly used in all machinery and there is no agricultural machinery channels as good or funny as this one lol.
I ride dirt and after 15 years I've noticed the thing that has the greatest effect on chain longevity is keeping the chain at the correct tension. Too tight and it stretches prematurely. Too loose and it fish hooks the sprocket teeth, fucks up the whole drive-train and amplifies the elastic band effect on acceleration, which also leads to increased chain stretching. For years I used O-ring chains and I only sprayed them with Q20 light oil after washing to keep the chain from rusting and keep the o-rings supple. There was no noticeable difference in chain life between doing that and expensive chain lubes. For MX I run standard chains because they have less rolling resistance, and there I use Motul Off Road chain lube because there's fuckall lubrication otherwise. It flings off pretty quick, but that's ok because you can just reapply it between motos.
Watching this video again after 4 years and couldn’t agree more. I have used chain lube that thing is like glue thats hard to get rid of and every little crap sticks to it. Gear oil i find is the best option out there. But the trick lies in how you apply it.
Having visited the MX tracks for 30 years, the best chain oil is old motor oil. Soak it over night, longer is better. Let it drain off, into the original container. This will last day at the race track. Also buy your preferred can of lube and use it when necessary. Soaking is cheap and last longer than just canned chain lube. 30 yrs at the track.
But there's getting the chain off.....
Time & time again, yet more common sense from Matt!,
I've used the toothbrush and gear oil for the last 25 yrs and thousands of miles. Recently though, I've used chainsaw oil, like a few have commented here, with good results too. The secret is to clean your chain regularly with an old toothbrush, dishwash detergent and an old washing up bowl, hose it down to remove detergent residue & blow dry with some compressed air or dry with old cloths, check each roller rotates freely with your fingers, then apply gear oil or chainsaw oil with a clean toothbrush. After the 1st ride, just wipe any flung lube from the chain guard or your rim. Easy really.
I like to use WD-40 on my chains. Gets the water out after washing them so I can apply gear oil once it dries out.
I just throw the gear oil into one of those oil dripper bottles, and apply a drop to every link on the chain. Spin the wheel a bit, wipe it down with a rag so you don't fling oil over everything and go for a ride.
I've run a scottoiler for a bit now, and I have to say: different riding (commuting, touring, trackday) will cause the bike to radically change how much oil is put down. You have to adjust it quite often. Most of the time I'm on the lowest setting possible and it is just enough to keep from spraying the wheel and having enough lube on the chain to keep it lubed.
I've found that with the scottoiler, it keeps the chain cleaner longer and is so much easier to wipe down when you do need a cleaning (every 1500 miles or so)
Wish I had seen these videos early, bloody farken excellent..
My friends dad a former airplane mechanic ( later worked for Koeningsegg) he used to warm oil in a big pan, then put a very clean chain in it. Let it sit for a while, then let it cool down to room temperature. Pull it out and let exess oil drain from it. Wipe it of and then it would go for quite a while on his Honda.
This is an old school thing to do LOL my grandad used to do the same thing.
One problem with chain oilers is that they generally put on too much. One I made had a 50cc tank and that would last about a month of regular use (the bike was my only vehicle and I lived in the arse end of of nowhere). The back wheel did get a little more dirty than the front but I seldom cleaned the bike so that's no real surprise. An oiler won't make much difference in chain life compared to regular maintenance but it is a shit load less hassle. Tap the chain with the toe of your boot once a week to check tension and adjust if needed then top up the tank once a month. Job done.
excellent explanation. the amount of money ive spent on chain products over years for all my mountain bikes + motorcycles.
The wax crap is a pain in the ass. It'll pick up all the dirt as you said BUT is a MAJOR PAIN to get off. Moved to simple gear oil, seems to work well. Comes in 80W90 and similar ratings.
My mechanic is always telling me to get a scottoiler as I don't have a car and drive every day in all weathers. I bought a second hand gsx650f now and was thinking about getting one but to be honest I got 12k miles from the chain on my cb-1 and treated it like shit. Once a year 100 quid for a nice clean new chain and sprocket set is to me a lot less hassle than fucking about cleaning it all the time because I live a mountain road covered in shit.
Excellent video! Spoken in plain terms, no techy bollocks, made a lot of good old common sense, and proportionate dropping of the occasional F-bomb! Very useful video, which also gave me a laugh! Subscribed!
I was using the sticky spray stuff since it wasn't supposed to fling off. I would wipe off excess and it would still end up all over the place. My wheels are polished and I like them clean. That stuff is hard to clean off. I started using 80w 90 and my chain and wheels stay cleaner and it's much easier to remove. I think the chain will last longer too.
Well done Matt, I clean bikes for a motorcycle dealership, Scot oiler and people who over oil there chains is the bain off my life, complete fucking mess, people seem to think you need to dump half a can of chain lube on it every week, and never clean it between lube's, I've used gear oil for years, Dealership like the wax, because it's salesmanship, shows it's been done. Clean with mild soapy water! I wish, 2 liters off degreaser More like.
Thanks Matt, I never thought of it this way. I've got a load of gearbox oil too 😀
Motorcycle manufacturers and chain manufacturers recommend gear oil.
Muppets will STILL argue.
38000km on DID chain on a litre bike.
Good video. My personal method after trying nearly everything is WD 40. Apply a little almost daily and clean with....... wait for it....WD 40 once or twice a month. Minimal fling on the wheels which I then clean with - you guessed it - WD 40! You're welcome
Never been an issue on my MZ. Apply grease every 2500 as per the manual.
Best intro song yet 👍🏼
Just noticed the Machine Head logo. Nice.
On very old bicycles and mopeds they used to have a closed box around the chain and on some bicycles you could fill them with oil so the chain would always pick up oil on the return stroke
Marcel Lucassen
Yamaha XV920R
Exactly, doesn't seem to be factory standard or everybody immediately takes them off their bike, took me a bit of google search to find it (YAMAHA XV920 XV 920 R VIRAGO CHAIN DRIVE HUB ASSEMBLY)
If modern chains are sealed ie x ring o ring then they dont need oiling, but the chain still rusts so needs a quick wipe of oil to thinly coat the exterior, ive been using this theory and my gold chain looks like new still, just my view and its works for me, its not like iam a super chain expert like Delbodge.
Awesome video. 👌
could not agree more, tried them all and they all make the same mess. I just soak a rag in oil and rub it on my chain then a quick rub with dry rag
Great video - all true! Keep up mate.
I really hate the waxes for the reasons you stated. I've been using a light amount of the good stuff from Bel Ray Blue Tac. Doesn't attract near the crud any waxy stuff does, keeps the chain quiet and rust free, and does what it's supposed to do. Only takes a light spritz on either side where the side plates meet the rollers/seals. That's it. Clean now and then, touch of lube now and then.
For the power addicted who are after maximum HP at the wheel, waxes will have high viscosity and drag between the links. Energy loss through a heavily waxed chain will be somewhat significant. Use oil instead.
Use gear oil on my 600 Bandit,what my mechanic mate thinks was the original chain lasted 26,000 miles,just replaced it's replacement,got almost exactly 20,000 miles out of that one and the sprockets were still not shagged,though obviously replaced them.Check and lube my chain weekly,bike is never laid up either which I'm sure makes a difference.
I used to get about 15k miles out of a chain on one of them using the used engine oil from it in a cheap oiler. Totally didn't cover the rear quarter of the bike in shit and make me do an unintentional powerslide coming off a roundabout.
My dad gave me an old tub of chain wax its about the same size as a dinner plate you put the chain in it and place it on a hot stove and let the chain sink in then lift it out and let it dry job done 👍🏼
Robert Beattie do you have o-ringchain?
I like Bell Ray Chain Lube with Molly in it .. It's more critical to lube a non 0-ring chain than an o-ring chain A Lube Sales Man treid to show me how great his Fina Oil was and the Bel-Ray was as good as better .. just a simple friction on a ball test
My end game for lube is something that doesn’t kill rubber o-rings and keeps rust off the chain without being sticky. Care nothing about slippery properties. Steel sprockets last long enough. Right now I am liking the new WD40 specialist gel. Keeps rust away for a long time, doesn’t fling, sprays like foam, and doesn’t get sticky.
....and for second place I choose gear or engine oil. Like you said, wax is stupid to clean will attract everything including stray cats. Oil is perfect for the job and cheapest. Just flings a bit the first ride out.
LoL it's Always best to Lube-up otherwise there will be complaints!
I agree about the "Constant Dribble" from Oilers, also I've never understood why some "Oil" is "Sticky" when it Should be Slippery! Bikes are pretty much open to the environment so they Need regular maintenance / observation / attention especially where it's So close to the Road / Dirt etc!
I always hear these miraculous stories about the Scott oiler making your chain last forever. But I never see those stories in real life. On my next bike I'd like to try one just to see if it actually does something. I'd only oil it slightly after a ride. And oiling a pile of dirt on your chain won't do much, true! You make a great point about the oilers. People that use them stop taking care of their chain.
LOL, I don't need to oil a chain since I have a driveshaft on my bike... But I used to use S100 when I needed to. But that was a mess to get of the rim. Put the SAE 80-90 in the scott oiler system that is cheaper then scott oil oil oiling the oil on the oily chain.
80w90 is probably too thick for a scottoiler, I just use engine oil
I love it. Nicely done.. I stick with WD-40 for cleaning for many reasons, and I am switching from wax to gear oil. But if you do not service it I know from experience that in a thousand miles it will be crap and you will be replacing it..... I found out the hard way hahaha
the best lube i ever used was wire rope lube which i used to get from work
After watching all your experiments and tests with various lubricants and surface protectants , I was pretty surprised to note there was no mention of Wurth products. I am guessing because they are only available via a sales rep although here in Australia there are some scattered factory sales outlets that do sell over the counter. I’ve used Wurth tools, chemicals and lubricants for over 35 years in the Auto trade and more recently on bikes. Their Brakeclean, Rost Off (surface protectant/penetrant) and HSS2000 (spray grease) are far superior to anything I’ve ever used. I’m sure you must have come across them at some point. Cheers. Paul.
Applying lube to the inside radius of the chain will allow the centrifugal force to push it outwards to the places where it is needed.
Machine Head!! Thanks for the vid, really helped 👍
I installed a Cobbra Nemo 2 or whatever it's called. Nice little reservoir on the handlebar, little turn (roughly half of the quarter turn suggested in their instructions) every whatever miles and it keeps the chain decent. Just simple gear oil.
I remember 1st bike I felI for super- sticky moly chain lube schtick. Just to be sure it was clean for the moly to coat I washed it off thoroughly with degreaser. Sure enough, a couple of weeks later the chain was totally fucked, O rings are not designed for that level of abuse. We live & learn.
Citrus degreaser is awesome for chain cleaning..
Really great video. I watched Ryan at fortnine and he said the same as you. I have to say I have a scottoiler and find it great but it took time to set it up to avoid excess spray and I have to say sometimes there are occasions when it does get a bit messy if I forget to turn the setting down. I also clean my bike regularly but always clean the chain as well as let's be honest its a chainsaw near your legs, so I always clean it off and then get a tooth brush and put some scottoiler oil just to reapply lubrication to the chain. I got a scottoiler in the end because of the long trips I do but if I wasn't doing long trips regularly, of course before lockdown then I would definitely recomend using gear oil. I used spray lubes for ages and the grinding paste created even over a week of winter riding is surprising. Great video and I look forward to seeing more. P.S. earnest if you have read this comment, the video and my comment is an opinion lol.
All comments are opinions, I won't hold it against you lol
@@dirtygarageguy Hahaha brilliant. Really enjoy your videos.
Just a note on Scot oilers.
I had an Xt660t and used it all winter. Before I put the scot oiler on it the chain was needing adjusting constantly and I was getting maybe 1,000 miles a chain.. after putting the kit on the bike.. yes rear wheel was shitted up big style but adjustments went to monthly and when I sold the bike that chain had 3000 miles of abuse on it and still had plenty of life left in it.
I did tweak the oil used however with a little (5%) Activ8 oil additive. And initially applied it onto a warmed chain (+50 degrees C).
The chain was nothing special just your usual plain DID jobbie.
I agree with you. The o ring chains seem to die quicker deaths when they attract dirt and sand. Fact is they have a relatively short life and once damaged are just plain done. No product will protect from this fact or repair it. The racers appear to have new chains every race because if they can they do.
In motoGP they don't put anything on the chain....
The Workshop
The first 100 miles on any new chain is smooth bliss. It makes everything feel SO much better. And then its just a chain until it wears out.
Gearbox oil is exactly what I used sparingly with a tooth brush. Agree with waxes also except Wurth high performance dry chain lube. I use this now as its really good, non sticky. Though if using a daily bike I would go back to gear oil.
You should ask the guys that run the Isle of Man TT - if any chain is going to fuck up it would be there
I admit, I didn't know how a Scot oiler worked until I bought one, after thinking about it I realised it would be dumping oil even if I wasn't moving. I know it may not be much oil but I didn't like the idea and pipe to the carb and other bits about it so I sold it and bought a Pro Oiler, more expensive but it triggers off the speedometer pulse so only delivers oil on movement and you've got a huge range between min & max. I'll get round to fitting it one day.
I fitted a Pro Oiler. They are excellent! I highly recommend it! 👍
I wouldn't, there crap. Status quo
@@dirtygarageguy 🤣 Even if you put Gear Oil in the Pro Oiler oil bottle?
@@dirtygarageguy Any evidence as to why they are crap in your opinion?
@@deanmsimpson Hi Dean, what oil you using in yours?
Tried wax when i started riding, ended up with a film of rust on the chain? Use Wurth lube now it seems to work OK. Although when I get round to replacing the lube may try this instead. Cheers Matt.
I use chain bar oil. 50k on it now.
Go on, you have to read them e-mails out on video.
Yeah. I tried the Chameleon oiler. It is nice for long trips when there is rain when you have it dialed in, but if you are like me and only wash your bike like 2x a season, the rear wheel gets a lot of crap, and some gets flung under the seat/side left side case. Seem to get about 15k miles out of my chains till they are at the 'stretch' limit, and o/x/whatever-rings are starting to fall apart at that point from never washing things.
I have noticed not running the oiler, the sprockets get chewed up a little faster from not cleaning/lubing the chain as much as I should, but that is entirely anecdotal and the last year hasn't exactly been my normal commuting routine and trips.
There is metal to metal contact, and oil DOES create a film on the rubbing surfaces. It's a thin one but it's there and it does have a lubricating effect. And whilst the surface tension of oil on metal parts is different from the surface tension of oil on say your hands or your mum's sofa..., there IS still a real lubricating effect. And if anyone doubts this, get a strong magnifying glass out and have a close look at those shiny bits. Or just wipe a roller with a clean finger. Use a small child for this operation, they're easily convinced they're playing a vital roll and don't need paying :))
The other proof that direct constant oiling systems are obviously a good idea: look at what happens to chainsaws if you run them dry. Yes, there's pressure and lateral wear on at least three surfaces of the bar. But chainsaws oil their chains with direct constant oiling systems - from the inside out.
And that's the best way to oil a bike chain. But if you haven't got a ScottOiler, oil it on the botom of the loop, first by turning the wheel backwards, then repeat the process forwards. When you eventually discover nasty black oil splatters on the rim, it's proof that the oil has passed through the chain at some point, and collected some shit on the way. Wipe it off with a paper towel and be satisfied you didn't neglect one of the most important components on your bike.
None of this applies if you have a Honda GoldWing or CX, Velocette LE, Valiant or Vogue, a Douglas Dragonfly, BMW boxer or MV 750s. I know there are more, but I can't be bothered to fucking list them.
You're forgetting the point to point contact. As the rollers contact the sprocket the oil is 'squished' for lack of a better word out of the way. After the vast majority of this oil is removed the chain material itself is then worn away taking the rest of the oil with it.
An example is cam chains, they have constant oil but the chain still wears and stretches. Hence the need for a cam chain tensioner.
The Workshop you wrote:
"You're forgetting the point to point contact. As the rollers contact the sprocket the oil is 'squished' for lack of a better word out of the way. After the vast majority of this oil is removed the chain material itself is then worn away taking the rest of the oil with it."
I'm not forgetting that bro. I'm aware that the lubricating effect of what oil does remain is small, but it's real.
An example is cam chains, they have constant oil but the chain still wears and stretches.
Where precisely does the wear take place? Inside the rollers? Then that oil is constantly being moved around in there.
"Hence the need for a cam chain tensioner."
:) don't be naughty. We both know the primary importance of the camchain tensioner is to provide accurate valve timing by maintaining constant drive by eliminating backlash and chain lash as the engine accelerates and decelerates. It also reduces the clatter noises associated with loose chains.
In practice the tensioner increases the constant pressure between the chain links and the chain wheels, thus actually increasing the possibility of wear. If the chain was looser (and not tensioned) it would necessarily wear less. Ergo the tensioner actually contributes to the wear of camchains, hence the NEED for constant lubrication.
This brings me to my favourite drive systems: gears for cams, and shafts for final drives. Both eliminate the issues we re discussing here.
This in turn raises the thorny issue of what would be the perfect bike engine. Possibly it might be a gear driven inline (as opposed to transverse) pre 2001 VFR style V4 with a CX or BMW shaft drive.
Arguments against involve alleged less efficiency, increased upswung weight of the drive arm (that could be mitigated with a single sided swingarm in modern materials, an inability to vary ratios aftermarket, and the acknowledged increase in out thrown weight of the cylinders. However, the exhaust solutions would actually be simpler than the VFR's transverse arrangement, and the fuel side would be totally unaffected, except for the possibility of a healthy increased airflow up there.
The arguments in favour are many, varying from the obvious efficiency, compact arrangement and pleasant drive capability of a V4, to the evidence of the VFR's sales success - which surely can't be due to its looks, or its weight.
The recall issues Honda was experiencing with camchain tensioners long before they launched the VFR, as well as since they dropped the super reliable can drive gear drive, all serve to support this design concept.
Yes, I went of topic!!! I do that:) But I did just give you a theme for a vid...!:)
ive never spent more the £150 for a push bike never am i going to put £250 worth of kit on it although i an going to be checking every push bike now if i see one with it on it wont be on their for long
I just use WD-40. I've been using it for 30 yrs and haven't had any problems. Works just fine. The best solution is to upgrade to shaft drive.
One question, two observations. What would you take with you if you went on a tour, and you didn't want to cart around your 2 pints of oil? Cleaning & lubricating every 500km is fine but it's important to consider the riding conditions. Mid-winter, clean the bastard weekly! The challenge is keeping the chain clean more than lubricated. Final point - that cycling dispenser got laughed out of a cycling forum I read - anyone who buys that is a muppet. Great vid champ.
"One question, two observations. What would you take with you if you went on a tour, and you didn't want to cart around your 2 pints of oil?"
In this case a scottoiler is usually the way to go, like I said - they don't what is advertised - I just don't like them. And I don't go touring LOL
Gear lube for a rear-end is the best chain lube fortnight tested everything.
28k subs who's a clever fella then !!!!!!!!!!!!! Look out Del we's a comming !!!!!!!!!!!!!
I need one of those drip systems, to keep my shaft at proper lubrication...
Interesting comment about the push bikes at the end, the world of chain lubes for pushbikes is a massive cash cow, muc off make one with glow in the dark pigment in the oil and a uv torch to check "coverage"
Through yeeaarrss of experience I've found out ChainWax is shite, the chain actually rusts!
BelRay Chain Lube, an aerosol, is the best stuff for road & offroad chains. It will NOT fling off hence keeps the bike clean, and a lil spray at the end of a day is all it takes.
Never used a ScottOiler but I also do not ride daily, especially not in sogging-wet Blighty lol
I use hot wax graphite for my off road bikes non oring put it on a stove boil it for 20 min then hang drip over pot to cool down comes out good not sticky
Matt. I ride motocross motorcycles and was wondering if using the oil would still be good. I assume that I would have to clean up the chain after a days ride because of the dirt buildup. If it is alright to use regular oil instead of chain lube in a can I’m definitely going that route. Thanks for all of your videos. On a side note I wore the Workshop tee shirt to the Anaheim Supercross last Saturday and a lot of people commented on it and know and watch your channel here in California. Your knowledge goes worldwide. 👍
Anything is better than nothing - and like I said - keeping it clean is usually more important. As for offroad stuff its not so much of a concern as the chain is always covered in shite lol And its crazy that people commented on the shirt - cheers dude
I use Corrosion X (HD) for mine, every month I clean and reapply which is definitely over 300km (I go 12 miles just to get to work) and I do this when I'm done using the bike for the day so it can sit...
I live in florida, so Corrosion X is some battle tested stuff when it comes to preventing rust/corrosion, I use it on all my guns, and this seems to do fine for me. I don't know if like you say it doesn't provide any lubrication, I also tend not to think so cause there's a lot more force here than the slide or bolt on a gun, but for keeping it clean and corrosion free it seems to work fine.
You are dead right Chain oilers are a blast from the past my 1957/58 bikes have them fitted as standard drip feed from the oil tank to fully enclosed rear chain-case it works no shit on the non o ring chain or bike , my modern bike (2000 600cc i have had it from new :-) ) uses x ring its exposed ,so regular clean (when I remember to)with a brush wipe off with a rag ,wipe over with a waxy rag its average 17000 miles a chain and sprocket set riding to work all seasons.
What about castor based 2 stroke oil? That stuff is thick af, plus for the treehuggers out there, it's biodegradable. Won't work very well in freezing conditions though.
Chains don’t stretch as such, it’s the rollers and pins that wear and this makes the chain longer.
Yeah its called elongation or to elongate.
Dictionary
Elongate -
synonyms: lengthen, stretch out, make longer, extend, broaden, widen, enlarge
In other words if you make something longer then stretching is fine - people automatically jump to the conclusion that the metal is stretching - more on this in the video tomorrow....
To use "stretching" in the chain equation you may as well also use "compressing" in the same sentence. Just call it wear. If the chain only had 3 joints instead of 120+, it would be much less dramatic.
Oilers sound good on paper but as you said they constantly oil the chain. Big mess. Also I think I would become lazy and not look at the chain from time to time. As I oil it myself (500-800km) I check the chain health in the process. I use Ipone stuff, has a bit of vax in it but doesn't mop up shit from the road. For cleaning I use Ipone stuff made for that (I hope that it doesn't wash out the grease inside the chain, it should be made not to do that right??). Thanks for the info about oil and which SAE, I might try that.
Cheap cleaner, very effective and won't destroy o-rings/x-rings: kerosene.
Scottoilers, horses for courses I think. There are some myths and misinformation (or general misunderstanding), I find if you keep your chain lubed it doesn't matter what you use, sprays, scottoiler etc. Scottoilers make more sense when you do high miles, using the bike every day all year. People toothbrushing then lubing manually is all well and good, but try keeping that up all through winter, you need to do it every other day which gets old real fast. It is also more expensive, what is it 7 quid a can or so, you go through them very fast when your lubing most days. Scottoil is a tenner and that lasts a long time, 6 months or more. Pretty soon you have recouped the outlay for the oiler itself.
Oil all over the bike/wheel, yeah you see that but it is 100% user error. It is very easy to adjust and again, using every day it only requires the odd "bit more, bit less" tweak now and then to correct it, I never have oil spatter on mine. I can see how someone who doesn't ride that often would have a badly adjusted oiler as they won't have this level of visibility to adjust it.
People say that the oiler means you don't look after your chain/like to take a close look at it etc is nonsense. The oiler keeps your chain shiney bright all the time. My bike looks like its been dragged out of a brook during winter but the chain is shiney bright. You notice this every time you approach the thing so if the chain looks dull you know you need to take a look at it, you would have to make a conscious effort to not notice it. When you wash the bike you can still clean the chain with a brush etc then give it a coat of oil or spray, they are not mutually exclusive.
It's a bit like declaring all motocross tyres are crap because they are not as good as sports tyres on the tarmac. They make sense in the right situations. I would not bother with one on a bike I don't use often as it is asking for hassle, blockages, badly adjusted etc they would be more trouble than they are worth (IMO).
Since i switched to dry lube (after 25 years of riding) my chains life has prolonged a lot
Bollocks - how?
Good video - O ring chains are effectively sealed for life to retain the internal oil. I'm no expert on chains of any kind but what about non-o ring chains ? I'm wondering if using a lighter oil with one of those scott oilers is intended to get oil into the internal bearing surfaces? This assumes there is sufficient side-ways clearance between the rollers and side links though I guess.
Make sure to wipe you oil off from the bottom or top in the opposite direction of rotation of the chain, or you can run the bike in gear and chop off your fingers with the rear sprocket if you don't need them anymore. I still have ten but I do know someone who doesn't.
P Kuudsk I know someone who did that once too. What possessed him to run the bike in gear I'll never fathom but losing the tip of your finger stops you doing it ever again.
I just clean it with kerosene (paraffin) when it's *really* dirty. 90 weight seems to fling most of the crap off.
I made the mistake with that sticky, waxy shit like Belray. Not only is it like grit glue, it's damned hard not to get all over the place. You just can't do it on the road. A dropper of gear old and a towel works great on the road.
But I will say that I've tried liquid Dupont Chainsaver. Seems to works well, dries slippery and is non-sticky. But it's expensive.
Never ever have an auto oiler on a push bike Jesus christ. Not only is that weight you have to push with your legs but I can't imagine that not over oiling the chain and if you're so lazy you can't do oil yourself you're probably too lazy to wash your chain either.
Chain Saw Bar oil would be good too as it is supposed to be anti fling off.. Bar oil comes in Summer and Winter weight t he summer would be close to the 80W -90 weight
I was wondering that myself just found some in the garage. Do you think it would be alright.?
@@robertbaxter4021 Any oil is better than no oil .. Some chain and open gear oils have solvents in them to make them flow easily then the solvent evaporaties .. and leaves something sticky behind..
I bought a case of Bel Ray chain oil 25 years ago it still works well it has Molley in it.. Some oils are more messy some fling off more.. Just oil your chain every day ..
My street bike has the origional non o-ring chain with 8,500 miles on it still seems to be in very good shape sprockdets look good too .. dirt bike chains can wear much faster as sand is abraisive wears metal and absorbs the oil then falls off the chaim.
I would say an O-ring chain has many more advanatages on a dirt bike than a street bike
@@mikeskidmore6754 thanks I've been using wd40 chain lube up until now but it seems to attract a lot of dirt and grit
@@robertbaxter4021 hmm I went on a multilple day trip and forgot to bring my small can of chain lube with me.. stopped into a Menards and bought a can of WD-40 Chain Lube seems to be very sticky seems to work very well .. The Bell Ray attracts diet too .. Oh and Bel-Ray has Molly in it .. a dry lubricant that is supposed to still work after the sticky stuff is gone..
I really don't think oil matters. Of the last 2 chains I bought 1 said 10w 40 the other 80w 90. I prefer the 10w 40 it's thinner so it makes the chain appear dry after a shorter period of time which gets me to clean and oil it more often.
Tell D.I.D that.
@@dirtygarageguy you should run a bike on a dyno with a bone dry chain and take temperature readings and compare with other chain lubes. I've never seen a dry chain get hot from friction. Shit the more I think about it the lube is mostly there as a rust deterrent and to get your wheel dirty
What gets forgotten by companies like Scottoiler is how you ride your bike affects chain wear massively. So I ride like an old fart, moderate acceleration and not high speeds and no Scottoiler. My chain and sprockets will wear less than someone ragging it but using a Scottoiler. Example: I did 3000 miles in Europe and lubed my chain I think twice in that time, but rode at a relaxed pace. My chain only needed slight adjustment when I got back. If I'd ragged it around for those 3000 miles with a Scottoiler I'll bet the adjustment would have been more...I've got a Scottoiler on 1 bike and yes my chain is oiled and pretty clean, but for me, they look bloody awful cable tied to your swingarm. I've been going off them for years now and might even take it off and make chain clean and lube part of my regular maintenance. There's something to be said for that as opposed to the fit and forget attitude of having a Scottoiler which arguably discourages inspecting chain and the surrounding area..
So your saying that I'm wasting a whole lot of money on these expensive as fuck spray on lubes?
If I knew I could buy a single bottle of gear box oil over the life of the chain, I would have saved a lot of money
I got told by a older rider he always used chainsaw oil as you lubing the rings not the chain itself. Anyone heard of the same thing?
Yeah quite a few times - its for chains so all is good
ade keys yep use chainsaw oil myself and it works great.
My chain lube is muc off and it smells of blackcurrant. Can i add flavours to normal oil to make my bike smell nicer. I was thinking along the lines of strawberry or choc orange.
Also can you do a video about power bands and which colour is fastest and if i take strokes away so its a two stroke will i have to add oil to my petrol?
Who would win in a detect off? Columbo or Kojak?
Thanks for the ace videos 🖒🖒
Oil on and lube off 3 times a week. Matts right keep an eye on your chain lube, and stretch, cuz a new chain stretches a lot. If ya ride every day you'll know exactly what matts gettin on with.
and.................. thats why I like my shaft drive......... no nasty oily chains :)
No problems so far with the FJR 1300 shft drive bud ;)
Been using gear oil for a couple of years now, (commute 200 miles a week motorways ect) applied once a week the ' flick off and replenish cycle' keeps the chain looking clean and nicely lubed. I'l never go back to overpriced sticky sprays. This is what i use and a fiver will get you a year supply of the stuff www.wilko.com/car-maintenance-products/comma-gear-oil-ep80w-90-gl4-1l/invt/0077164
What do you think about mixing some kerosene into into your gear oil before oiling the chain? Maybe it will seep in better and the Kerosene should evaporate. I suspect most spray chain lubes have a Kerosene (or similar hydrocarbon) solvent carrying thicker oil.
Eny one remember the chain lube that came it a tin that you put on the cooker to melt it then put the chain in. All done when the other half was out.
yes, if I remember correctly it was for chains without o rings, when hot it was thin so would seep into the inside of the rollers and then solidify when cold .
Stephen Hampson yep thatd the one. Last time I saw one was at a auto jumble. Guy wanted some stupid price for it. Because as we know every old bike still runs an old type chain. L9L.
I use a drip feed auto sytem,, it took a while to get the feed right, just use a basic chain oil, mine is an everyday ride,, TT 600 triumph with 120 000 klm,, give the chain a clean an adjust every 10k approx
after 120,000 kms your chain is fucked - the wear is internal not external
time to lube up boys!
More room for meee...