651 You Aren't Doing Anything Wrong. It Simply Does Not Work. Kubota Landpride RB1672 Rear Blade 4K
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- čas přidán 14. 02. 2023
- You're a new tractor owner. You keep trying to do it but it is not working like you were told it would. You think you are doing something wrong or incorrect. But you aren't. It simply does not work. Today, I'll tell you why. Let's warm up the Kubota LX2610 compact tractor, and take a closer look at the RB1672 Hydraulic Rear Blade. Comments and perspectives are welcome as always. Cheers!
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This video is not an instructional video. It is not a sponsored video. It is intended for entertainment purposes only. The creator receives no financial compensation from manufacturers for the production of this video unless otherwise stated. - Jak na to + styl
Gord, I don't own a tractor, yet, but when I do...I will remember this video and never turn my rear blade backwards. Good info.
Good explanation Gord you are correct.
Getting together for some......uhhhh coffee? Just kidding. Love the demonstration and love to see how much you pull of with the rear blade after blowing.
LOL! Goood coffee. Cheers!
This video is a terrific find for me. Where I live powerful winter winds are a serious problem--they pack the snow hard enough to drive a small car on without breaking through. I thought about getting a blade and reversing it to bust that snow by ramming it either with my old Allis-Chalmers or with a modern sub-compact tractor I'm considering buying, but neither has downward hydraulic pressure in back. You saved me a lot of expense and hassle by showing that my idea won't work. Thank you.
Good evening Gord . I had that same blade before I got hydraulic vee blade setup for the loader . I bought it used . It came with adjustable hieght ski kit and wing add on kit for the winter . The skis where large diameter dished out shoes . I could set them so the blade cutting edge stayed above the gravel at desired hieght . No pulling gravel up and would leave a inch of snow too hopefully melt a bit then freeze for good base . My vee blade for loader has large dished shoes also and works really good . No mess in the spring too clean gravel off side of driveway .My experience with plows on gravel has always go with really large round shoes on gravel base driveways for best results .Too small of skis just don’t do it . They will still dig in too a soft base .
I agree but I back drag at the start of the season so I can build a good base, I want to leave snow behind. Once I have a good base I flip the blade around. I have skid shoes for the rear blade but I preferred turning the blade around. I will sometimes back drag after I finish clearing the driveway so I can clean up the little wind rows left behind. I don’t have as long of a driveway and mine is fairly flat unlike yours. I could sell you my skid shoes for your RB1672, I have the RB1560 😉😂. Have a great one GP 🙂🙋🏼♂️👍🏻
Hate to say it GP... But this is what separates first-time tractor owners from us lifetime tractor owners.. you all will get there one day just keep at it... Have fun be safe. enjoy the video
LOL! Always ok to say it - and always welcome some advice from you and others with more experience for sure. Cheers and all the best!
Totally agree! I did just purchase some universal skid shoes for my rear blade and have them attached. Of course I haven't had a storm since I put them on! Lol. My blade seems to scrape really deep so I wanted to prevent scraping up all my base layer so I bought the skid shoes. Another use I've found for spinning the blade other than fluffy light snow, is for spreading material without digging. Most times I have to still spin around and use the loader bucket, but the blade will work. Great video, thank you for sharing.
Gord, good advice and I've seen a lot of videos about turning the blade around. I thought that it might work but I wasn't going to try it because I bought a LandPride rear blade with several more features that address the issue of grading when the ground is not frozen. The model number is RBT3572. It allows the blade to be tilted off horizontal. You can also move the blade over to one side of the tractor or the other. It allows you to change the angle like your hydraulic cylinder does. And, it has skid shoes for adjusting depth. Last, they even have a fourth hydraulic function for adjusting a wheel that goes behind the blade. It manages blade depth. I didn't know about this option until after I got the blade. I guess I could still get it. LandPride doesn't advertise it well, but you can see it on their largest blade. The downside to this rear blade is weight. I have a series 4 JD tractor. It is large enough, but this blade moved my smaller tractor around too much. I really like it.
Great points GP. I have tried my blade backwards with limited success as well. I did take 1.25” dia. black pipe, (cut to the blade length) and cut a slot lengthwise in it so it would slip up over the edge of the blade. I fabricated simple flat stock to attach to the blade bolts and welded to the pipe.
Really helps keep digging into gravel yet allows the blade to furrow the snow naturally as it was designed to do. Cheers GP!
Thanks for this video Gord. It really makes sense now. I've had very little snow to plow here in Northeast PA. But, winter's not over yet.
Skid shoes might be the best way to go. Just enough to clear the little stones under the snow.
Nailed it, time and practice is a great teacher
Cheers Roger!
I agree. I only found turning the blade around useful when I am pushing snow into a pile at the front of my driveway. That said, getting on and off my BX to swing the blade around is a bit of a waste of time when I can just simply push the snow with the back end of the blade. Plus I still have the full potential of the blade at my disposal when it is facing in the right direction for work elsewhere. At the end of the day I am not producing art, I am just clearing snow, it doesn't have to look perfect. Cheers!
In my environment here in North Idaho I always turn my blade reversed when I put the snow blower on in the fall. The reason why is for the last few winters the ground rarely freezes hard enough to use the blade in its normal position. I am using the same tractor and blade that you are. Love your channel.
Great piece of information. Thanks GP ! Cheers!
Love the snow, really miss it this year in Kentucky
I appreciate the info Gord. I don’t have a back blade but if I did I agree with you. I have a front blade on my Kubota 4060 tractor and love it.
Great video GP! I agree that the blade reversed only works in very light powder. I have a subcompact with a 60" blade so I have less weight than you.
I start the season cutting a slit in a piece of ABS pipe and sliding it over the blade so it won't dig in. The concave blade that will still cut and more importantly roll the snow off the blade well.
Once the ground is frozen I take off the ABS pipe. I do rotate the blade backwards (manual adjustment) and mainly so I can push backwards because with small snowfalls the blade is much quicker than the blower.
Thanks again and keep up the great content!
I personally use a box blade with a hydraulic top link and it works great for pushing and pulling
Good evening GP.
Yup I was one of the guys… And truthful I don’t even have a rear blade.. I was just going of what I have seen on other channels.
I am glad you spoke out about it with what you have tried.. Thank you for sharing your wisdom with us..
I for one will remember this for when I do get one..
As always stay safe and always be kind.
Cheers my friend..
GP, always good to hear your thoughts and comments, appreciate the effort you put into your vids. Personally don't have a rear blade on my tractor. and with this weather we've been having in SW Pa., Don't foresee any snow either! Believe it or not, today took a walk down the driveway with shorts on and a light shirt! 70* F and sunny!
May miss Ole man winter completely ! ( But then, March ain't here yet!) Thanks GP. Stay safe and healthy.
In my experience running the blade backward before the ground freezes has worked great on my compact Kubota. Having a compacted base is fine cause when it freezes you flip blade back around and use as normal.
That's right GP because of the curve in the blade... the three-point floats.. that's why you need to go in reverse the pressure on the back of the blade draws the three-point arms down... Hopefully this will help everyone understand more clearly
Makes sense - thanks GNW!
What you are saying is totally true those blades are not made to scrape backwards good advice enjoy coffee with the boys sounds like fun take care have a great week
Thanks. I like to say, "every snow is different". Even at the same temp, humidity, pressure, and wind no two snowfalls are ever the same.
Thanks for sharing your video I enjoyed it very much 😀
I have an 8' King Kutter. It's almost 800#. I leave it facing forwards but use it driving in reverse and it does a great job of taking the snow but leaving gravel. But it is a heavy blade so that makes a difference.
Hello GP. Very good video explaining the difference between the different position on the rear blade. Love the video snow blowing. So jealous of your snow. Bone dry here in southern Maine. Tempting to take the blower off and remove the rear blade and start working on the lawns. However, March is fast approaching and the concern is we will get a lot of snow then. There is no frost in the ground so any plowing will be a challenge. Thank you for your video.
Thank you for the tips. In northern Michigan we haven’t had much snow. It’s been warm. We were lucky to even do the Vasa cross country ski race. I do need a rear blade.
I've done commercial snow removal for about 30 years and use my blade in reverse the majority of the time. Our ground doesn't freeze hard in my area so we need to pack / back blade loose surfaces to minimize picking up stone and to smooth out tire marks. It's also easy to hook loose asphalt and manhole covers cutting forward without shoes on, which is the case if you need the cutting edge on the ground to pack.
Running in reverse is not efficient. I keep the blade at or near max angle when opening roads. The snow sheds slowly, it is more akin to a combo blade and snow pusher. In fact I run the blade flat as a snow pusher too. That said, I've never found a better way to clear snow from stone surfaces.
You are right about blades on small frame compacts. Most small compacts don't have the frame weight to pull / push a blade straight in wet snow at any significant angle. The blades fitted tend to be a little on the light side and have reduced angling range too. The same can be said about snow pushers on small tractors, there comes a point when the tractor just doesn't have the weight to maintain traction.
Love the front mount blower.
I have a Landpride RB3784. 682 pounds. I use it like you. Blower and front and the rear blade scrapes what left. I always use it in the forward position. Totally agree with your observations.
Spinning it backwards and adding weight seems to be adding complexity when using it in the forward position works a lot better without tinkering with it.
Cheers John!
I sure would find those rear blades handy. I've been looking into one myself. Great to see ya putting it into action Gord! Helps me learn more about them.
Good morning Sandy!
Gord, great video, makes sense tome.
To use the blade backward first snow of the season will leave a bit of snow to be packed down so the blower won’t dig up gravel . Only works with a light snow. I do that with a 8N with back blade, then user blower after it’s packed.
Makes a lot of sense I did not have any problems flipping my blade but of course we only had 6 inches of snow
pulling the blade backwards is to pack the driveway not clear the snow, try dragging tires that will also compact the snow.
Hello GP. I haven’t read all of the other comments but I have seen many other people cut a channel into a piece of pvc pipe. You then slide it onto your cutting edge. This will prevent your blade from digging up the gravel when everything isn’t frozen yet. There are multiple videos on CZcams if people showing how they have made their pvc cutting edge guards. Cheers
Hi Gord! Before I got my snowblower I use to turn the blade of my scraper around all the time. BUT I pushed it. Especially when pushing the snow from the end of the driveway. Flipping the blade and pulling it never worked. I tried on gravel as well thinking it would give me a smoother grade. Not very successful.
Sound logic GP!
Excellent explanation, GP. What you said made perfect sense. and, yes, I have seen folks on other channels try reversing the blade with mixed results. Your videos are the best! Thanks my friend! I hope you guys enjoyed your "coffee"! Cheers!
LOL! Good morning Michael. Yes, it is always a nice time getting together with the guys. Hope you are keeping well!
I’ve learned the same as you. I’ll use the blade reversed for the first snow before the ground is hard more to pack it down rated than clear it off. Once that’s done I flip it forward for the rest of the winter for better clearing.
I use my blade backwards when the ground is not froze, I hear what you’re saying GP, but it works for me. Thanks for the video
Good stuff Dude! Have a great weekend!
Thanks Mr. P. Cheers!
Good evening Ernest!
It also works on light fluffy snow, but I never see that kind here on the east coast of the US.
How's she goin'? I think each of us who have our own tractors have gone through a learning curve. We can hear and accept advice, but till we try it ourselves, it's not really bought into. I agree with you about pushing the back blade. It will ride up on what ever it is we're trying to push or grade. But like you, I had to try it and see. Now I know!!! LOL Thanks for sharing this GP and take care!!
I completely agree and have had the same experiences. Btw, if you still would like to demonstrate it, you could run your tractor backwards in the snow and try and push like you did with the gravel. Box blades are made to push because they have a rear blade as well as the front side blade.
Hey GP, obviously we, here in the midwest, don't have near the amount of snow that you do, BUT, when we do get snow, I DO RUN MY REAR BLADE IN REVERSE.
I will PUSH the rear blade by BACKING into the snow, and driving the tractor in reverse.
And YES, additional weight on the blade is a MUST. I use to hang "suitcase weights" on the rear blade itself to hold the blade down.
And as at about the 9:00 mark, this works pretty much on the dry powder!
Once that snow gets wet and slushy, THEN I will use the blade in a PULLING motion, and keep adjusting the blade height until I am no longer pulling gravel.
I have a BX23s blade in the back and blower in front. As you I I have 1.5km gravel road. I took a 2” ABS tube. As my blade is 48” I cut two pieces of 24”. Took my table saw did a slit down the middle of the tube. I slide the tubes over the knife edge. With the tubes on no more pulling up any rocks. When the ground is good and frozen the tubes come off.
Hi GP look on Page 13 of your rear blade manual blade offset. I offset my blade last year and I will never move it back. It work great for making the driveway wider. You can drive closer to the center of the driveway and pull the snow into the center.
Hey thanks. I used to have it offset but have not done it in a while. Cheers !
GP……You are exactly Right!!! Backwards will not perform very well at all…. I want to move snow as fast as I can… thus I use a Bush hog Brand 176-10 hydraulic rear blade that weighs in at 1500lbs using a 100hp 4WD cab tractor. It has 2ea skid shoes and is a beast. I can totally clean my mile long driveway out in 30 min or less. Pulling it facing forward with skid shoes and you will never pick up gravel. I much prefer this over blowing snow it’s so much faster.
I have had good results using my bucket on my gravel driveway before it freezes. I angle the cutting edge up a little and use the bottom of the bucket to scrape. You can use the float or hydraulic pressure.
True words of wisdom from the my friend in Canada. You are the man!!
:)) Cheers !
I have used a land pride back blade (60") backwards for snow removal without additional weight. I have done so with a BX and a 1025R and have minimized tearing up the lawn without having it ride up. I can only conclude there is something else which allows me to do this and you can"t I'm guessing you are on the right track with it being geometry related. I'm also doing it a limited distance 100 - 150 ft. Good luck and I enjoy your videos
Hey GP, controversial topic I see here. LOL. I have put out videos reversing the blade and pulling. I have the even smaller RB0560 and it probably weighs less than 150 lbs. My purpose is to make paths that leave a few inches of snow in the yard (grass) so that I don't tear it up. I'm thinking that is what people are talking about so that you remove a good portion of the top layer and not dig anything up. So, you are correct it will ride up (as technically) you would want it to but it also removes a lot of the snow. Now, after a few times you are creating hard pack but at that point you would just blow it away. I think for a driveway like yours thought this would not work as eventually it would be very slippery and you would never see that frozen gravel until it melts. Of course, causing like you say, a big slushy mess. Cheers!
Some back blades have tyres back of the blade. That gives a way to control the clearence between gravel and the blade before the ground is frozen.
Great video GP on explaining basic physics. Cheers my friend Brad. 👌🏻🔥🇨🇦
It might be camera angle but your blade appears to have a slight bend in the middle to have a slight v shape
If you are a handy fabricator... Get a steel pipe the same length as you blade. Cut a strip out of the pipe wide enough for your cutting edge. Weld on some tabs. Drill tabs through the blade and bolt it on over the cutting edge. Saves the lawn and driveway!
Definitely sweet
A tractor owner with an opinion. Now THAT’s a new concept. (Sorry I couldn’t resist)
LOL! Have a great weekend!
GP, we dont have snow in florida but we do have red, sticky clay and when wet you must use the cutting edge of the blade. If you don't and you try to push with the opposite side.... just like snow, you're correct it will ride up and you're pushing air.
i have been using an lx2610 and an rb3772 with all the add ons, i think it comes in around 700 lbs. i have used it in the reverse position to smooth dirt but i never did it with snow. when i do use it for snow the problem i am having is that the cutting edge and skid shoes are getting ground down rather quickly. i will probably end up welding some bar stock to the bottom of the skid shoes and replacing the cutting edge and keeping betting track of the wear.
Where can I get that hydraulic kit
My rear blade is almost 5 times as heavy and I almost never use the blade in the backward direction when clearing snow, But I can also hydraulically rotate the blade 290° without leaving the cab, Usually I have the blade turned backwards and push snow backwards when clearing the yard.
I believe weight is important for most implements. You need weight to help drive the implements into the ground. I have a rear blade that weighs 572lbs and it still doesn't weigh enough. Box blades are the same way I am looking to order a 800lb box blade.
JP your correct.. however with it reversed it is great for top soil... I will say one thing, there are a million things the back blade is good for,, very old farmer once showed me many.. We dug a ditch with one... The top link will help not pick up rocks,,, or as many... you can set it to dig or to level...
One thing I do not understand is with your hydraulic kit how do you get the blade level when you change it??? Mine has the hand crank on one of the lift links... If I angle mine, with out changing that crank thing,, one side would touch before the other.. Not really digging up the packed snow.... See??? I do use mine as a dozer turned completely around to push banks back... Great video my friend Cheers
Hi Gord, can’t say I have the same results as you. I drag my 7’ blade “backwards” on my B 3200 early in snow season on my 800 meter road when there is only a few inches of snow. I do that a few times to build the base needed as it rides over the gravel. Once the base is there, I can turn the blade and scrape with the concave side for the rest of the season providing it remains cold enough to keep the base there.
Thanks Gerry! How much does it weigh, if I may ask?
@@GPOutdoors spec sheet says it weighs 325#. It’s a bush hog model 3507, bought from my Kubota dealer
@@gerryclark4330 Thanks Gerry. I think based on some others and yours, i kind of have a light weight model, I think. That might explain it - thanks again!
Good Works Tractors sells Hitch Hangers, which hang on your Quick Hitch . With these 6 -40 or 70 pound weights can be hung to help with down pressure.
I have the same blade and b2650. I use it in conjunction with a snow pusher. I get most of the snow going forward with the pusher, then get the last little bit, which is at the start of the pusher run, with the blade and going in reverse on the tractor. I keep the blade with the curve in the forward orientation, so technically I’m pushing with the blade “incorrectly”. Works well in my scenario.
As an aside, I drool over your rear hydraulic setup for the blade. I have a cabbed tractor and just can’t quite justify expense of adding rear remotes. Oh well, I’ll just tractor vicariously through you.
How do you get your blade to raise so hight? Mine gets like 3" off the ground that is it!
I have 2 driveways, one is half stone to the second garage where we park the snowmobiles. I back drag that area all the time, with zero issues. It leaves a base for the sleds, as well, it leaves the stones (3/4” clear) where they belong. Otherwise, and I have tried many times, I end up unleveling the stones, or, push them into a pile then end up blowing them into the lawn, meaning picking them up before cutting the grass to protect the windows and house. To each their own, but I prefer backwards dragging the blade, going forward, leaving a flat groomed surface on my stones. Mahindra eMax 20 here, Ramara Ontario.
Have you been able to get out on the trails much s far? Our trails have only been open for about 3-4 days in total so far, and now everything has melted again. So disappointing - Weird winter. Lets hope for some big snowfalls before March!
@@GPOutdoors No. We are right on the B trail in Ramara. we went maybe 5 times- Couch Lake, the Uhtoff trail to Waubeshene, we tried the trail to Lagoon City, that was crap. What a bummer to pay $400 in permits, and not be able to use the trails.
Good Works Tractor has brackets that hang off your quick hitch and you add suitcases weights to the brackets for more weight.
Morning ranger! Yes I think it is a Titan QH. I have looked at them a few times but the Customs charges and shipping are $$$$. Looks like a great option. Cheers and thanks!
Good stuff Gord. I have FAR less experience than you but in my very limited experience with a rear blade I agree with you. Not to mention, my rear blade is the even lighter weight RB1572 so the lifting issue is exacerbated even more! Cheers!!!
And if you read my comments that's because you got to use the back of your blade driving in reverse it will clear all the snow you want right down to the gravel with minimum damage.. GP been at this for a few years like yourself. I've been at this for a few decades Plus.. hope this was a help
Just mount an old, pickup style snow plow blade to the front of your loader QH. Use the back blade for clean up. Snowblower for berms and large piles. Most fun on a tractor, moving snow 😊Take care
You're totally right. What you described is accurately called backblading and it's only purpose is to smooth out your final work. I have the blade turned around on my old Ford 8N so I can push the snow (no snowblower) going backwards. With the cutting edge facing forward while going forwards I find if I get into trouble due to deep snow I get stuck because I now also can't back up. Out comes the shovel and a couple hours of back breaking labour. Love your videos GP!
I have a 7 ft rear blade for my tractor. Since I only plow on concrete or chip and seal I have never turned it around backwards. For the sake of a demo could you not go backwards with the blade to prove your point?
A plow-blade of any sourt is not made to be dragged backwards it dont ever work properly think of a truck plow u back drag it lifts abit everytime but if u do forward it cleans properly so if anyone has a blade use it properly for the best finish
As far as your and or I had the exact same blade you do and no weights added
Hey Gord. Thanks as usual. With your current hydraulic cylinder, have you experienced any compression or "Leak Down" when dragging the blade that causes you to have to re-adjust the desired angle?
Morning Ross. knock on wood - not at all - no leaks, no leak down. I think this is my second year so far with it. plus i bent the blade about a month ago ( you can see it if you look closely. Tractor stopped dead on me ( caught on a root). Luckily no damage to the cylinder. Whew! Have a great weekend!
I use it backwards only until ground gravel driveway is froze. only then do i use it in normal position.
Greetings from eastern Ontario. Another very useful video GP. Lots of helpful tips. One thought I had was would a hydraulic top-link help minimize the upward movement of the rear blade. My hydraulic top-link is one of the best upgrades that I have on my tractor but I don't use a rear blade. Cheers.
Morning. Good question - I am not sure - it might. Have a nice weekend out there and careful with the freezing rain coming through today. Cheers!
Hey GP I see you have added 90 degree elbows to your hoses where they plug into the tractor. In your installation video the elbows were not there. I assume the hoses were hitting the quick hitch. My question is did the elbows correct the issue?
Have you ever tried a v shape blade on the front? How would that work for ya?
why does the rear blade do a better job at scraping the ground when the blower weighs much heavier?
Watched the GWT video again and Courtney does have extra weight on his quick hitch. So GP on target !
Thanks - Have a good one!
Great videos I decided to purchase a new kubota 2610 with a cab after watching your videos and the last blizzard we had.
I have to ask it’s really noisy in the cab so now I put my ear buds in, how do you record these videos when running full rpm ?
Good morning Brent- congrats on your new tractor. I usually have the audio outside of the cab and/or I turn the gain down on the microphones. When I have the mic in the cab with me it sure is loud. Enjoy the tractor and have fun out there!
I think a lot of people with the blade reversed are happy just “grooming” the driveway rather than just clearing the snow off of it. Many operators also don’t realize how much just adjusting the top link angle can affect the digging ability of the blade, just letting the top link out alone can make the blade do far less damage.
One other point on this…..my grandfather was a bulldozer operator for years and became an instructor for heavy equipment in later years. He’d tan your hide if he caught you back dragging. The cutting edge side is the working side of your blade. Back dragging is only to smooth your tracks out after a job, or to make up for lack of operating ability. I’ve had this repeated to me on multiple occasions haha
LOL! _ thanks Bulldog!
SInce you built your own grill guard for the tractor, I guess it's time to build a box for the back of the trail arm to add more weight, bags of sand or cement blocks etc to add more weight...
I agree with your assessment completely except one part. I never understood turning the blade around a pulling it through the snow. One way you could have shown the effect is to just push the snow in reverse. Now the part I didn't agree with was not buying the kit that allows the blade to be rotated 180* . I have used my back blade (when I had one) to push dirt or gravel of course you have the loader to do most of that type of work. I sold my blade years ago after I bought a loader and hadn't used it for several years. I made scraper for my driveway (blacktop) and used a front snow blower.
What kit is required to rotate 180-degrees? Literally all manually angled blades can be rotated 180-degrees. It's only some of the hydraulically operated blades that have an issue because of the way the cylinder attaches. The RB-16 series is such an animal. You have to disassemble the turntable and flip it around which is a pain. I used to have a Frontier hydraulic rear blade and its turntable had cylinder attachment points on both sides. So just by pulling a pin you could rotate the blade 180-degrees and then insert the pin to reattach the cylinder. I wish all blades were designed that way.
@@eosjoe565 He bought a "kit" that bolts to the top portion of the blade that bolts on, an ear of sorts that the cylinder mounts on. the kit that would allow hydraulic rotation for 180* would have an ear on both sides
@@kknvlewis I have no idea what he is talking about. I think he is confused. I have the same blade and while there are two different hydraulic angling kits shown in the manual, it is because they changed the design of the turntable post. It is not to allow the blade to be rotated without disassembly. Both kits have top plates with a cylinder attachment on only one side and both would still require that you unbolt the top plate, spin the turntable and then re-attach the top plate.
I live on about half an acre in a residential community in NC where it hardly ever snows. So why do your videos make me want to go get a tractor with a snowblower attachment? I'm telling ya if I had the money after your last snow machine video I'd a had me a snow machine already! Sometimes it's good to not have enough money. 🤣🤣
LOL! I think we never stop being kids. We played with Tonka toys when we were little and we just want bigger Tonka toys now. :) Have a nice weekend out there!
Hi GP, sadly I cheaped out and went with the 1660. I can’t get close enough to edge of road before the Lx does and if I angle I lose a few more inches. Oh well lesson learned. I should have gone with the 72 to get right up tight to the edge of road. Something to bare in mind for anyone else planning to buy a rear blade get one at least the full width of the tractor or wider. Cheers!
It all depends on your situation. I had a RB1572 and changed to a RB1660 because I found the extra width of the 72-inch blade too cumbersome when working in tight areas around obstacles. You are correct though, a longer blade does work a bit better for angling but... depending on the size and weight of the tractor a long blade can push the rear of the tractor sideways when plowing. Everything is a compromise. :-)
The correct answer is... it depends... it depends... it depends. I've been clearing my long gravel driveway with Land Pride rear blades for over 30 years. I used to have manual angle blades but 5 years ago I upgraded to a hydraulic RB1660 just like you have. I ALWAYS push against the back side of the blade to avoid digging up stones. But... I am ALWAYS driving backwards and pushing the blade. That means I'm not driving over the snow first and packing it down, which would make it more difficult for the blade to clean properly. You also need to shorten your top link a bit to reduce the attack angle on the cutting edge. This will cause the cutting edge to be more vertical and negate some of the curve of the mold board. When I say it depends... that's because different snow conditions dictate different blade configurations. I have had situations where I've had ice or hard pack and then I would need to drive forward a bit to let the blade carve the snow. With the Land Pride manual blades it is easy to spin them 180-degrees. With the design of the RB-1660 you actually have to disassemble and reassemble the turntable to use the blade backwards while travelling forwards. But... that's not an issue for me because I always push backwards. Like you, I have the perfect setup. Snow blower on the front for the really deep stuff and the blade on the rear. Unfortunately, the past several years we haven't been getting much snow at a time so 90% of my snow removal is with the blade. BTW... I also do three neighbors driveways... all while travelling in reverse and pushing against against the curve side of the blade. It works perfectly. :-)
Try driving the tractor backwards with the blade down I found that it will push the snow will it raise up sometimes that’s how I push snow for the back onto my grass
Courtny ( Hopefully that's how his name is spelled) form Good Works tractor just had a video of the blade backwards and love it , so maybe it only works with certain type of snow ?
Love Courtney and his channel. For me, it works well if I get powder - Cheers!
Good Works Tractors has a bracket to add weight to your quick hitch. It appears what you are doing works for you.
Having it set at concave, it will naturally want to dig in.
i know only a little about tractors ,i had a yanmar 25hp w backhoe 2500 lbs then i got a tym t494 (close to 7000 lb w ballast. i think i have draft control? does that put down preasure on my box blade?? the yanmar was great at snow,the tym peels up blacktop. can you enlighten me.
Morning. I am not familiar with them but if you did then that would keep the blade down. All good. Cheers!
Good Evening GP, We Are All In The Learning Path Sir and Keep Warm Cheers 👍👍👌👌😇😇🍻🍻 Bip Bip 👌👌🤣🤣👍👍
LOL! 16 degrees celsius today Davey! It's almost summer! :))
Good video the only thing you did not cover was the angle by adjusting the top link.
Cheers Jim! Good point. :)
Hi Gord. Have you ever tried blading snow without the tire chains? I have a similar sized tractor and blade, and I find that the blade tends to pull my tractor sideways quite a bit. I’m wondering how much the chains might limit getting pulled sideways by the blade. I’m on pretty flat ground so chains aren’t required for blowing, but it might be worth it for blading. Any thoughts?
Yes good morning Kevin. I should maybe spend some time and pull up old video and compare it to video with chains. It makes 100% difference - no exaggeration. If I angle the blade too much, it can still pull me sideways a wee bit but before I had chains, I would get pulled hard to the side. Plus as the blade fills and opposition increases, the wheels would start to spin and in deep snow, the tractor would eventually come to a stop. If you look at the clips towards the end when i am driving towards the camera and away from the red gate, you can see the tires are slipping a bit wth that heavy snow in the blade, but the chains keep it moving. Hope that helps. Cheers!