How To Use A Dehydrator To Speed Dry Your Painted Kits & Parts - Updated
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- čas přidán 24. 11. 2021
- Today I'm giving an updated look at my food dehydrator that I use for speed drying my painted model parts. This unit has become a must own part of my painting.
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Mate, you are a legend! I ordered a dehydrator yesterday and was just thinking that there's so little info on how to properly use one for drying paint, and now we have this video! Can't thank you enough for all the work you do.
Thanks buddy, this unit is a game changer with the hobby. You'll love it. Thanks for watching 👍
Hi. The odd temperature increments is due to them being converted from Celsius to Fahrenheit: 35C / 95F, 40C / 104F, 45C/113F, 50C/122F etc. Great vid update by the way.
I did try it. It was too "Hot" for hobby paints. Basically ruined what I painted with it
Great demonstration of how to use a food dehydrator. Thanks for sharing. Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours.
Just ordered my iwata arkhitect colonizer. Looks awesome 👌 can't wait to see what other dream gear items they come out with for the series
BARBATOS ! I'm a recent subscriber and I am about a year into this new hobby. Your videos have been a big part of my model building this past year and have also been a big help on what products to purchase . You never do us wrong .thanks you for passing on your knowledge
Happy thanksgiving! Great video. Thanks again for sharing!
I have been using one for a few years with great effects
i just ordered mine, thanks pal. love your vids
I have used this technique after watching this on my old dehydrator till it blew and it is so valuable! I'm going to have to buy a new one like yours now. Great tip. Your style of video with so much detail is really cool. It's like getting together with a old friend to talk about painting models. Thank you.
wow this is great, could paint an entire gunpla in a day with this. surfacer, paint, topcoat
BARBATOS ! I'm a recent subscriber and about a year into this hobby ..your channel is great man ..you cover so much with no bs and good detail ..I apply alot that I learn here into my models and I really appreciate it .one of the best channels on CZcams..thank you very much .
Happy Thanksgiving and thanks for your videos. They help this newb alot.
Happy Thanksgiving my friend. I love all the info you have shared with us. I am having a lot of fun "hanging out" with you as I sit at my computer or work in my shop. My dehydrator will be here on Dec 1st!
It's a great piece of equipment to have for the hobby. Just makes it all more enjoyable because you're literally not waiting for paint to dry 👍
jealous of your RG hi nu! cant wait for those to come back in stock.
Second time I’ve watched this video I just got one of those dehydrators can’t wait to use it.
I have this dehydrator. It works nice. Have been using 113* for 1 hour. Seems to work well for me. I have been waiting about 5 minutes before putting the model in it though. Guess I can skip that step.
Happy Thanksgiving. Stay safe
Oh dope, you build Zoids too. The old Takara Tomy/Hasbro motorised kits were what got me into modeling as a kid, still my favourite franchise to this day and my collection is mostly old Zoids I've imported from Japan to replace the ones that got destroyed as a kid. Finally touching the High End Master Models again, got a Death Stinger and Geno Breaker in the backlog. If they ever make a High End Master Model Death Saurer, I'm losing all my free time because I'm buying like 10 lmao.
I bought the paint shaker,and markers love them .thank you
You're welcome buddy. I use that paint shaker every day
You’re the only other person in the hobby I’ve ever heard mention Japan Drier. I’ve been using it for decades, but no one else seems to have heard of it. 👍🏼
ok, now i need to buy one of this and the paint shaker hahahah, excellent videos \m/
Great video. Would love to see a chart with different paints and their temps and drying times. I mainly use Testors enamels and Tamiya acrylics.
Vallejo paints need this. They seem to have a rubbery texture for days/weeks and easily pull off with tape.
Well, that is a very nice unit. For me justifying the expense is an issue. I know Paul Bretland at International Scale Models in the UK had his paint wrinkle with unit he had, so he quit doing that. Maybe he had a bad unit or didn't follow instructions I can't say. I am still looking for a used unit I can afford.....thanks for all you hard work and info, it's helped me a lot.....
I had a cheapo round one from Ollie’s (a closeout chain), that I picked up for drying out 3D filament. Trying it out for this right now.
Another great vid thanks
Another great tip that doesn't break the bank. I can never have enough tools anyway regardless what they are.
I put a small personal space heater and point it a empty document box, traps the heat and place the minis in the box for fast dry
Happy Thanksgiving B!!
good vid as always
It's in my cart now
Great video
BARBATOS REX IS THE COOLIES OF DUDES AT THIS ART!
😎
Another GREAT vid!!!!!!!!!!!!
FYI: 133F = 45C, 122F = 50C. Maybe holding down the temp button will switch between the two.
Was searching for this this before I said the same. You covered it in more detail than I was going to :)
105F - 110F is the hottest I would be comfortable with. Especially with styrene.
First of all, huge fan of your channel, I usually re-watch a favorite every day and simply adore your presentation. I got this dehydrator on your recommendation and have a question. What settings do you recommend for Future/Pledge floor gloss? What settings do you recommend for lacquer spray can topcoats? Trying to maximize use of this lovely thing. Thanks!
Hello there buddy, great purchase there. With no actual manual for what we use it for I find that a standard temp of 113 to just under 130 for everything. The lower temp for for a longer time and I go up when I use it when I'm filming. Once anything cures it doesn't really go bad after that, it's just a waste of time. I put high temps with a time of half an hour to an hour. Lower 1 to 3 hours. That should cure any paint type. Plus do what I did at the start, check everything every half hour and remember what paint type. You'll be shocked how many paints cure in that short time. One of my best purchases I've made for the hobby room. Good luck my friend and thanks for being a fan
It might be worth mentioning possible issues when drying parts that still having masking tape on - I found that their was glue residue when removing tape. Using the dehydrator appears to soften the tape glue.
Also, there’s a risk when drying your freshly painted car body of having one fermented potato juice based beverage too many and forgetting about your drying model. When you wake up in the morning it’s a warped mess. Don’t ask me how I know 😥
Hi first of all love all your videos! Please keep it coming. I got lots of great advice from you on paints in the past and now I have a question on air compressor hope you can help. Is the Sparmax Mini a good starter air compressor or what is a good airbrush compressor under $200? Have you done a video on this recently? Would love to see one of those
I highly recommend the Tooty Air Compressor manufactured and sold by Spray Gunner. I got one with a built in air tank. I got this year and it's been awesome. It's only about $130 and worth every penny. Go to this site and search Tooty spraygunner.com?aff=10
Been watching your videos and thank you for all your insights.
I would like to know about drying lacquer paint right after the pieces are painted, will the unit still release the smell and fumes on the top of the unit? Should I put a carbon filter on top? will it obstruct the airflow? What would be your recommendation to reduce the smell and fume.
HI REX,I really like your set up,and those cool airbrush paints,and also the Alclad metalizer paints,I have been building models since the early 70"s and still doing it.I build 1/35 up to 1/12 scale kits, and with the food dehydrator can you also use it for weathering models to cook the paint in. let me know,and can you send me info of the paints you use.keep on modeling,Jerrys model works
Hi I just got the same spray booth as you, really good buy, so happy. Much better than my homemade stove suction unit.
Your workshop is so impressive, how long did it take you to gather all those kits?
About a year, I call it my Fortress Of Solitude 😉
Thanks for this, I hate waiting for paint drying times so I want to give it a shot. Do you know if its safe to use for resin kits?
Hi, when you say your temperatures are they in Farenheight? As i live in UK and use celsius. Loving the tips reviews etc
Really interesting, just found your channel, but I cannot see any builds, do you do videos on builds?
Happy thanks giving, another great and super informative video as always! A quick question. im looking to start using the testors small bottle enamels thinned as in another of your videos. Should i let them fully dry in the dehydrator before 2k clear? Over night dry maybe before clear? Also anymore videos of the duralumen chrome? I haven't seen it featured in any videos lately, was it not very good?
You must have the enamels fully dried, either by sitting on your desk for 3 days or in this dehydrator. I have a new Duralumen video test coming soon, the Tuff ersion
@@barbatosrex9473 I'll be buying the dehydrator asap then, thanks! Also can't wait for the video on the duralumen!
How'd it go?
Hey - any suggestion on storage ideas for the larger bottles? Like the larger Tamiya bottles or things like Mr Surfacer or Tamiya Liquid Surfacer and similar?
I did a video a while ago on my shelfs and how I organized my paints. I'll have to do an updated one
Hi, can you recommend an inexpensive dehydrated please? Thank you
What would you do for a gunpla piece that you’ve sprayed on all sides. I usually paint mine on sticks with alligator clips but what would you use to stand them up in the dehydrator? The holes in those racks seem a bit big to hold them.
Great video as always, thanks a lot for sharing your great ideas!
Can you precise please the inside dimensions?
I need to see if a 1/16 car body comes inside…
I also need to know if there is a converter. If not, I am afraid this model, dedicated to the American market, won’t work in France (220 V)…
All the best
Olivier
12X13X13
@@barbatosrex9473 Thanks for this info. You didn't precise if the dehydrator was working with a converter or not.
Can tell me how long to leave in the dehydrator for each: Lacquer, Enamel & Clear Coat? Thanks!
The reason that your dehydrator is showing odd increments like 113° - 122° etc., is that it is displaying the temperature in Fahrenheit. However it seems like the original presets in the program were in degrees Celsius. As 113° F is 45°C and 122°F is the equivalent of 50°Celsius. It’s obviously set to go up or down by 5° Celsius. Cheers
Thanks buddy, great info to know
Just bought the same dehydrator. What do you recommend for temp and drying time for enamels without the hardener so that it is fully cured?
Does anyone know how to keep frames for plastic model car frames from tipping over and keeping them lined up and flat? Did anyone build any jigs or any tips on building them
(maybe I missed it, but...) Could you do a video comparing putty? What I always use is "Liquitex Modeling Paste" (regular version), which has an acrylic base. You can cut it with water, brush it into very tight spots, and add acrylic color to it. I wet sand it with 600 (then higher grit), to a fine sheen. Allow to cure for 24hrs. It's very cost effective, a jar should last a long time!! (I would like to talk everyone away from using auto body putty).
I recently started to purchase different brands of putty for a test comparison
This is the 9 tray right? That one’s $130 now the 6 tray is $100. Gotta convince the wife to get me one for Christmas. Happy Thanksgiving!
would this work for tacky paint? I painted the yellow plastic wheels off my buggy, I lightly keyed the plastic then used plastic primer and a chrome spray paint but they are tacky a day later.
I know this is an older video, I am new to the hobby and am trying to watch everything so I can learn. I am building a 1/24 scale float plane and it won’t fit in any commercial dehydrator. Is it possible to use you kitchen oven set to the same temperature and use the convection fan? My plane will fit in there, or is there something a dehydrator does that an oven won’t. Thanks for all your amazing videos.
You can use the oven but I would heat up the oven to it's lowest setting. After it reaches temp turn off the oven. Then track the temp, you want it to hit about 120 degrees. Then I would put the kit in
Thank you for your reply and all the education you are providing.
I can see the idea behind a dehydrator but what is a normal time to wait for it?
Im canadian so putting a 190 dollars on a 9 shelves version is extensive.
Can you put a list of normal waiting time versus dehydrator waiting time?Like acrylic ? Enamel? How much time you safe? 10 min? 5 hours?
Thanks
Thanks for the update video. Have you dried and resin bodies or parts? Just wondering if it’s safe for resin or just plastic.
Absolutely safe for resin too. That's what my friend uses his for
@@barbatosrex9473 awesome!! Thanks for the reply and the great videos!
Great Video! Just one question can you put lacquer paints in there also ?
Yes, the red spoon was a lacquer. I use mostly lacquers and out them in this everyday
I use a dehydrator to dry/cure all my paints, putty, etc. Also use it to heat up my spray cans before spraying with them.
Have you noticed a difference in the paint when you use the dehydrator to dry the paint vs air drying or using a heat gun/hairdryer? like any color variance or the paint being harder/more resistant than normal?
It's tough for me to compare now because I've been using just the dehydrator for a year now. It seems to me that it's a bit more durable when it cools back down to room temp. I use it mostly for building models at a quicker pace. That said, it works wonders when building kits during humid months as humidity wreaks havoc trying to dry parts
Wonder if this works on action figures??
First! Happy Thanksgiving
have you tried using this to dry varnish? thanks for the informative video
I do dry my clear gloss and flat clears in it a the time. Works perfect
Have you tried putting Molotow chrome in the dehydrator?
I did put my Alclad Chrome in it and it works great. It should be the same for Molotow. Everything works in it. It's just a dry warm air environment that helps dry anything
Hey mate, was wondering how long after spraying a part with an acrylic like tamiya do you wait before putting the part in the dehydrator.
Also how long and at what temp do you set for acrylics.
Cheers mate.
You can put your pieces in the dehydrator in only a couple of minutes after painting. When you watch me paint on video and I say I'm going to put it in the dehydrator I do it right then so no real waiting. I'd go with 110 to 120 degrees and about 10 to 15 minutes. It cures very fast
Can this account for any dehydrator? Also do you have any plans to try Gundam markers airbrush or test their durability post dehydrator?
Any dehydrator will work. I will test the Gundam Marker airbrush and it's durability for sure
Hey Barbatos! Thanks for covering this topic. There’s no way polycaps will survive being in this, right?
Yes they will. You be safe at 120 degrees or less
@@barbatosrex9473 I appreciate your insight. You’re a national treasure, thank you again.
Mr Barbatos what happens if you accidently have it too warm? Can it not start a fier as the paints are solvent based and the highly flammeble fumes are still present in the paint when its new?
No, not a fire hazard but your plastic might warp
but for gunpla parts, it doesnt look like you can put gator clips in there with those shelves.
How would you go about doing an entire set, specifically HG gunpla?
My gator clips fit perfect. They slide between the holes in the racks. I forgot to show that
Barbatos have you ever tried one of these enamel thinners witch is supposed to make youre airbrush enamel paints dry faster? Gaia notes has a thinner called T 12 quick drying enamel thinner also some of the companies that sell artist oil paints sell white spirit with a quick drying agent in them that might also work with enamels. I wanna try this quick drying thinner for my Humbrols and I also want to try Model master and Tamiya enamel.
I don't have that Gaia thinner but I do have Mr Rapid Thinner that might work. Also I'm going to test Japan Dry, that supposedly works good. Check out my recent video test of MCW Finishes Enamel paints. They have a rapid dry hardener that works great. I'm teaming up with them to develop my own line of enamels
@@barbatosrex9473 Wery cool to hear I wish you great luck and sucsess with youre new lineup and I will order some when you do realese youre new paints. I hope they will be shipped to Norway so I can try.
How about using Infrared lights? I had a medical infrared lamp can i use it ?
The lamps will work fine 👍I won't be as effective as a dehydrator but it's a close second
Hello,
Do you dehydrate after testors clear?
I've dehydrated everything
Hey Rex, Chris here……. Just curious…. If I paint a car body with enamel & put the body in a dehydrator for however long I need to, when I clear coat it, it’s alright if I put the body back in the dehydrator? I’m assuming it’s okay to use it once for the paint cost and a second time for the clear coat…. But I don’t like to assume…… thanks much!!!!!
Yes you can put it back in again after you clear coat it
the spoons do you prime them.then chrome ..and what chrome do you use
to get that candy red please and what air preasure
It's Alclad Chrome and Alclad Candy Red. The primer is Alclad Gloss Black Base, then chrome then the candy
Alclad calls for 15 to 20 psi. It is very thin right out of the bottle.
Can you put a dicast body painted with the testors paint in there?
Absolutely
@@barbatosrex9473 thank you so much. Your videos are hands down the best airbrush videos on the internet!
How long and what temperature would you use to cure/dry enamel paint on golf club heads?
Under 120 for a couple of hours
@@barbatosrex9473 thank you sir
Hey Barbatos! Probably a silly question but is it safe to use with food after kit drying?
Absolutely
Awesome, Thanks for all you do for the community 😎👉
Barbados I need help man, I bought a PS-289 a month ago and now no matter what I do I get blowback in my cup. I’ve torn it down cleaned it and put it back together 3 times already. Seriously I’m about to throw this thing in the trash if I can’t figure it out. Any ideas? Please and thank you.
Sounds like it's defective to me. I've never had blow back in any of my airbrushes including dirty ones. Somethings up with the air valve or something. Get a replacement
What's the stand the car body was on called?
Here it is, it a must own for the hobby
amzn.to/3XYuZPy
Thanks
So a few questions. 1) How does this work with regular gunpla pieces? Like normally I've seen people put those onto alligator clips to paint and then they stick them into like a cardboard, plastic, or foam block to dry because obviously you painted the whole thing and don't want to touch it before it's dry, and laying the stick on its side in the dehydrator would obviously mean a painted side is probably touching the tray. Can a Mr Hobby Paint Station or another stand for the alligator clips go into this without causing problems because of the heat? Obviously you would be able to do too many pieces at one time, but I can't picture doing it any other way. 2) From what I've heard, painted pieces will still give off paint fumes while they're drying. So if you put them in for 5 to 10 minutes and they come out dry to the touch, are they still giving off fumes or a smell? I plan to paint lacquers mainly so it sounds like I'd have to put them in maybe a bit longer as well. 3) If the piece is dry to the touch, does that mean I can also apply another coat on top of it? As an example if I sprayed primer on it and then put it in the dehydrator for five minutes, could I pull it back out, more or less dry, and put my paint of choice on top with no problems? Maybe a top coat? I have friends that frequently paint and they'll let the primer sit overnight or for 24 hours before they actually paint the pieces, and then they let that sit for another night or 24 hours before doing anything else to it and that's just a long time to wait on just one set of pieces. Obviously if you do it in bulk everything will be dry and completely painted in like three days or something, just seems excessive. To my knowledge they don't use a dehydrator or anything like that, it's just regular let it sit on the counter drying, but they let it go until it is completely 100% dry no questions asked before touching it again. I don't have that kind of time, and given the humidity where I live I don't exactly like the idea of letting pieces sit out, wet, in humid warm or cold air and insects flying around.
You can put a Paint Station or cardboard in it, nothing will happen to them. At 120 to 140 degrees your safe. Also with this model you don't need one, the trays holds the clips upright perfectly. I don't get any fumes at all when I open it up. And I spray mostly lacquers and enamels. The safe bet is 15 to 2 minutes in it then it's cured, you can spray another coat on top of the piece no problem. No need to wait 24 hours. I never do. 30 minutes is the longest I wait after using this.
@@barbatosrex9473 Sounds great, thanks!
@@barbatosrex9473 Oh I keep forgetting to ask this. Can you pre-thin primers/paints and keep them in a separate bottle so you don't have to thin them every time you go to paint? How much thinner would you even use if you were going to try to fill the bottle?
What is this enamel hardener you are speaking of?
MCW enamel hardener . You could also use Japan Dry
Newtype realsed Gpaints new metallic paints, now can you do you review!!
He's sending me a full set for testing 👍
Will a 2kg spool of 3d filament fit in there?
It's 12 inches wide, 13 inches high and 13 inches deep
@@barbatosrex9473 Thanks! Should hold a few.
Does anyone dehydrate after primer?
I do all the time.
Her in Canada, this model is $200 CND plus tax (15%)
Evidently everything is more money in Canada
@@barbatosrex9473 yeah! I saw a Vevor 5 stainless steel plates 300W for $105CND. Vevor makes good products
Can the humidifier melt plastic part?
The dehydrator won't melt plastic. Setting it at 100 to 130 degrees will be fine
Thanks! Meant to write Dehydrator
hey rex.., how big of a boat body can you fit in there..
It's 12 X 13 X 13
How long does it take chrome paint like GSW to cure in the dehydrator?
About 20 minutes to the touch. 115 degrees for a few hours will do it
@@barbatosrex9473 thanks. I've been letting lures I've chromed with GSW dry in a 75°- 80° drying room for 10 days before dipping in QuickShine. This will speed up my process tremendously.
@@ChrisCardino-is4bd one of the best places of equipment I own
@barbatosrex9473 I believe it. Curing times for the GSW alone have been killing me. BTW thanks for the Tamiya TS-14 tip. It is now the only base coat I use for my chrome.
This must be good for enamel paints
Oh yes, it works great for enamels. It's why I bought it in the first place
hi there , not to offend but your 2 links to the air dryer from amazon are exactly the same product same price even
Man, for the same model in the UK they want £370!!!!!
Oh no 😟
⭐️ EXACTLY the same model but in white is also marketed under the brand name “ electriQ “….it is identical in every detail to the one featured but with the temperature in Celsius rather than Fahrenheit ….goes out new around £80 ($110)….and it works great just the same as in this very helpful presentation ⭐️
19 minutes of watching paint dry
BARBATOS ! I'm a recent subscriber and about a year into this hobby ..your channel is great man ..you cover so much with no bs and good detail ..I apply alot that I learn here into my models and I really appreciate it .one of the best channels on CZcams..thank you very much .