Video není dostupné.
Omlouváme se.

Toyota Prius - Catalytic Converter Shield Installation w/ Solder & VHB Tape - 2010-2015

Sdílet
Vložit
  • čas přidán 18. 04. 2021
  • In this video I show how I decided to install the Cat Shield which is meant to prevent catalytic converter theft on my 2010 Toyota Prius. This should be about the same on 2010-2015 Prius.
    Now please understand that I did not follow the manufactures method of installation. My method could void your warrantees but I felt this was a better method to actually protect my catalytic converter from being stolen.
    The objective of the shield is to make it harder to steal the cat by basically just increasing the amount of time it would take to steal making it too risky. The aluminum rivets that come with the one I bought are too small and made of aluminum that make it easy to just pull the shield off the car. To make this harder I applied VHB tape which is very difficult to pull off if you don't know that it's there. Also I used regular sheet metal screws and filled in the phillips head with solder to make them difficult to remove. The VHB tape also minimizes the vibrations which are often a problem when people install these with just the rivets. Additionally because the sheet metal screws are self drilling, there is no need to drill a hole first. One thing that I cannot stress enough is that you must make sure you know where you are drilling. You could easily drill into a component of your car, destroying it and requiring expensive repairs! I used my phones camera, measuring and feeling the area to ensure my screws wouldn't penetrate anything but the metal of the car. If you have doubts get professional help. This video is just documentation of my process its not an authority on the work and doesn't include any warrantees or guarantees.
    This video and the description here are for informational purposes only. They are reference to my efforts and knowledge of the subject. It is not a complete guide or the authority on the procedure! If you are unsure about your ability to do the work, please find a professional to teach you or to do it for you. Remember as with all Do It Yourself (DIY) YOU alone bear all the risk when working on your own car. You can injure yourself or others while performing work itself and even as a result of your work!
    Now you can support my videos just by making any purchase from amazon.com after following one of the links in this video description!
    Tools:
    - Impact Driver - amzn.to/3albQj5
    - Phillips Head Bit
    - Soldering Iron - (includes solder) amzn.to/3tsTaFP
    - Flux (optional)
    - Pipe or metal rolling pin (optional)
    - Gloves
    - Needle Nose Pliers or Tweezers
    - Eye Protection - amzn.to/3tze8TA
    - Paper Towels
    - Rubbing Alcohol - amzn.to/3aojYiR
    Parts:
    1 - Cat Security - Catalytic Converter Protection shield, Fits - Toyota Prius 10-15
    amzn.to/3aoNJ30
    and
    12 - 10# 3/4" Sheet Metal Screws
    amzn.to/2P8Qw9q
    and
    1 -3M Scotch 5952 VHB Tape: 1 in. x 15 ft. (Black)
    amzn.to/2P2b7Mq
    and
    (if not buying a soldering kit)
    1 - Solder roll w/ Flux
    amzn.to/3tBLYHm
    All your comments likes and subscribes are greatly appreciated! Got to our goal of 6000 subscribers! Our next goal is to reach 9000 by the end of 2021 :)
    Thanks so much to all of you for watching and subscribing!
    luke
    Click here to Subscribe to Minute DIY Videos: www.youtube.co...
    Support Minute DIY Videos on Patreon :)
    / minutediyvideos
    Follow Minute DIY Videos on Instagram:
    / minutediyvideos As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Komentáře • 15

  • @rocksarepeopletoo
    @rocksarepeopletoo Před 2 lety +12

    I've done this 3 times now, on a 2010 and a 2011 Prius and just recently on a friend's newer big-Prius. Thanks for this video. Not surprisingly, it gets easier with practice. Here's what I've learned:
    1. The small rectangular rear plate is *much* easier to install than the big front plate. Do that one first for practice if this is your first time.
    2. Run a fan under the car to keep things ventilated while you're cleaning with the rubbing alcohol. I didn't until my 3rd time and I'm pretty sure that's why I felt woozy the first 2 times. You'll also want good lighting, safety glasses, and a warm garage (the VHB tape should be applied at 60F or warmer).
    3. Marking new 3/16" plate pilot holes with a Sharpie and pre-drilling them away from the car makes the large plate a lot easier to install. I did this on my 2nd and and 3rd cars, drilling 2 new holes next to each of the 4 larger pre-drilled holes and a few elsewhere, including a couple on the small rectangular rear plate. This made it easy to avoid gas lines, etc.
    4. The supplied rivets for the large holes are too big for the standard $20-$30 pop rivet tools, so even though I wanted to use those as well they ended up not being an option for me.
    5. Getting the red backing off the VHB tape was *very* frustrating at first. Don't use short segments of tape if you intend to peel away the plastic backing as in the video. Bend the tape around and just use a few big segments. I used short segments my 1st time and ended up just taking the backing off in advance and wiggling the plate in carefully. On my 2nd time, I used long enough segments to peel. Even then, removing the backing was probably the most frustrating part of the job.
    I *finally* figured out a good way to get the red backing off on my 3rd time working with the tape. The trick was to cut it off the reel only 90% of the way across, then pull to tear the final 10%. The tearing process stretches the plastic to create a little flap that you can easily hook with fingernails or scissor-tips to peel off. If you practice this trick on the rear rectangular plate, it will make the front plate a lot easier.
    6. Yes to what others have said about JB Weld. I tried solder and couldn't get it to work, but JB Weld was quick and simple. The only reason not to use JB Weld would be if you ever wanted to get the plate off yourself someday.
    7. Have lots of extra Phillips driver bits, and don't use an overpowered impact wrench. I broke multiple bits before I got my torque right.

    • @jeffrichied4521
      @jeffrichied4521 Před rokem

      Do u know where I could find video to install a shield for Gen 4 Prius 2018)? Thx!

  • @raj15081991
    @raj15081991 Před 2 lety +4

    Thanks a ton, I followed your way of installing shield with VHB tape and self-tapping screws on my 3rd GEN Prius. Installation took about an hour and half with impact driver and I believe your technique is way better than installing with rivets, as rivets can come lose after sometime and will result in annoying rattling noise.
    Instead of solder I used JB weld which is also quite difficult to remove and thieves gonna be having really tough time drilling through JB weld first before reaching the mounting screws. On top of all these, stealing Gen 3 cat is pretty difficult as front portion of Cat is way up inside the car, I believe that's the reason Gen3s are not targeted much.
    One important advice for others, use hardened steel self-tapping screws cause the Prius under belly is made of thick steel, I had to use two tapping screws per hole to get the job done. After a while head of the screws were getting stripped off and couldn't drill any further
    Thanks again for you awesome video.

  • @ApexYes2
    @ApexYes2 Před 3 lety +2

    I really like your idea of using screws and tape instead of the rivets. I'm planning on using this approach but with security screws instead. Did you use the same size screws for all holes? If do, do you remember which size? I have a 2010 Prius too, and my shield has 17 or 18 holes and shield is 2 mm aluminum. Thanks for any advice! I hope you're still happy with the installation?

    • @MINUTEDIYVIDEOS
      @MINUTEDIYVIDEOS  Před 3 lety +1

      Yeah I am happy with it, still quiet

    • @MINUTEDIYVIDEOS
      @MINUTEDIYVIDEOS  Před 3 lety +1

      I think the security screws are a good idea! Just make sure you don’t get them too long and know where they are going into so you don’t puncture anything!

  • @대장간모터스
    @대장간모터스 Před 3 lety +1

    The content and quality are really good. What kind of camera do you use?

  • @amananaher
    @amananaher Před 2 lety

    Thanks for all info

  • @michael47lamb
    @michael47lamb Před 3 lety +4

    Cute idea but I can make my own shield out of galvanized duct sheet metal for pennies. First make a cardboard template of under the car, and then cut out the metal. Use many more screws to secure the plate too. FYI the aluminum shield this video uses can be torn off in a few minutes by a determined thief with a prybar. Also use screws with one way turning (aka tamperproof). Like those found in restroom toilet stalls. In the end though NOTHING will stop a determined thief if he(she) really wants your cat conv. Anything you do under the car will only slow them ten or 15 minutes. Also I wonder about the State Inspection guy and what he will think of not being able to see the exhaust anymore! LOL

    • @rocksarepeopletoo
      @rocksarepeopletoo Před 2 lety +1

      The alloy Cat Security shields are a lot burlier than galvanized duct sheet metal, and have laser cut cooling vents etc. And they fit. That said, thieves took the cat out of my parent's 2001 Honda Odyssey recently, and a custom shield would have been the only option for that one.

    • @Ghost_Unknown_Fade_Away_
      @Ghost_Unknown_Fade_Away_ Před 2 lety

      15 minutes to get stolen after paying somewhere around $1,500+ in California?I'm rethinking it is just a waste of money really.

  • @Sustainavore
    @Sustainavore Před 3 lety

    Wouldn't epoxy have been easier?

    • @danielebrparish4271
      @danielebrparish4271 Před 2 lety +3

      Epoxy is hard. The tape is a tar like adhesive that absorbs vibrations like rubber feet do on vibrating machinery.