I’m in paradise but I CAN’T Climb || Road to 7a Episode 2
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- čas přidán 4. 06. 2024
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In this week's episode, I visited the Greek Island of Kalymnos: a sport climber's paradise. I was dealing with a lot of fear and apprehension which was affecting my climbing. In this video, I go through some steps to try and deal with it.
Most of the footage is from Kieran Duncan: / kieranjduncan
Check out his Instagram, especially if you're going to Kalymnos. He's the best photographer on the island!
Checkout climbkalymnos.com/
Credits:
Belaying and emotional support @Kim_Norrie - Sport
Yaaass Mike. So glad I could show you around and share the joys of Kalymnos with you... Psyched for next season 🤟🏻📸😎
thanks for all the help K-dawg. Couldn't have done this trip without you.
Everyone needs a belayer like Kim! So wholesome.
Love the honesty in this video Mike! The fear is something that pretty much all climbers learn to deal with and it's admirable you're able to show that struggle on camera
Well said! Thanks for watching :)
Everyone who thinks Alex Honnolds free solo of El Cap was the most death defying feat of the century has clearly never rented a motor bike in southern Europe.
As a climber that is scared of heights, you doing the little drills and pushing yourself when your scared really helps me and definitely others know we're not alone and it's not something that will stop us, so ty for being real
thanks a lot for the kind words. It means a lot.
I've been climbing for two months now and it's been incredible. I never would of picked up the sport if it wasn't for you so thank you and keep up the great climbing content
Great to hear!
Mike! This video has it all and we are so psyched and proud to be able to support you! Beautifully filmed and very wholesome to watch. You got us all inspired and motivated to visit Kalymnos asap 🏝 Whatever you need, we are there to help you on your road to 7a 💪
Thank you so much! Thanks for the support!
One of the best climbing videos I've seen lately! Summerizes struggles that we all have, and watching Mike overcome his fear is really cool. Good luck on your road to 7a. If you flashed that 6C, you are more then ready to send a 7a after a bit of practice.
Proper fight on the last route! Kalymnos is an amazing place, I went climbing there in 2022. The shot at 1:37 made me so nostalgic, I remember driving up that exact path!
Anyway, it's really refreshing to see someone "human", climbing "human" grades and having these very normal to have issues like being stressed out for seemingly no reason when leading, etc.
You're doing great Mike, keep enjoying climbing and thanks for these great videos! Absolutely no doubt you can do a 7a soon. I wonder how much harder you'll end up climbing somewhere down the line :)
really nice words. Thanks a lot. I'm glad the video was a little nostalgic for you.
As someone who gets scared all the time climbing and is still working on getting over it (even in the gym), its nice to see that others feel that way and that it is possible to beat it and just have fun
Ahhh, Kaly... I can't wait for this years trip. Welcome to the Kalymnos family, the first of many trips for you I suspect!
There's just something about falling on an outside route that is so much scarier than falling on an inside route.
I found it really difficult to do commit-y moves outdoors. If I felt like I was going to fall I just couldn't get myself to go for it.
So this is really relatable.
Thanks for the kind words. I'm happy you found it so relatable as that's what we strive for in these videos 💪
Glad to see you talk about dealing with fear. I definitely don't have the right tools to manage it well.
Great video! I was very impressed with when you clearly were uncomfortable with the steep section on the 6c yet persevered. One of the hardest hurdles to overcome when transitioning from less to more experienced of a climber is being able to "turn it on". Most "newer" (under 3-5 years of experience) climbers really struggle with that. I thought it was awesome that you were able to continue moving through discomfort and uncertainty. Honing that skill will prove invaluable. On a side note, I find that that state of mind alleviates fear of falling in its own way. If you are singularly focused on the movement and continuing upward progress, the thoughts and fears of falling have a more difficult time creeping into your mind! Climbers that show this ability to persevere through discomfort, especially early into their climbing career, have a bright future! Nicely done.
Honestly one of the best climbing films I’ve seen. The actual film making is great, really good shots and the honesty about the fear is extremely relatable.
Great stuff as always Mike!
I'm really enjoying the videos. This year I started bouldering even though I moved to a very flat country, made some great friends and organised a weekend to Germany to do some outside bouldering to challenge ourselves. These videos are great and showing the reality of climbing is that it's not all about strength, technique and flexibility but also reading the routes and your self-confidence
Was a pleasure meeting ya, hope you enjoyed your trip, I sure did mine
I'm genuinely curious here: what tips do you guys have for getting over fear of falling?
Sorry there is only one..... Falling
watch Hard Is Easy's videos on it, they're amazing and really helped me
maybe you could even get a collab? 😉
Maybe have a few intentional falls every time you climb, where you slowly increase the slack. I find that helps, although for me it's scary again if I haven't done it for a week or so lol
Don't force it, you will make it worse. Some days you just aren't feeling it, let it go, drop the grades, have some fun and wait until you want to push it again.
Exposure therapy
You could make an hour long video and i would watch it all the way through. I love you climbing videos❤
Awesome. Can’t wait for our climbing holiday there 😊
If this isn't the most under-rated and under-subscribed climbing channel I don't know what is. Keep up the great work Mike! Really enjoying these videos!
Great work Mike 🤘🏻 and what a lovely wholesome moment at the end ❤
Yessss! Well done man as always look forward to see what’s next 🙏
More to come!
Nice! Today I sent my first 7a, after a long process of projecting. And then I watched your video and i can feel every step of your process very well. You are on the right way, stay tuned. My fear of falling was also a big problem for a while, but with falling-training (mostly) in the climbing-gym where the bolts are near and no scary stone-bellys are underneath, i was able to get more confidence with falling. now, also outside on the rock i try to avoid "take's", and try to go everytime till the fall. I wish you good moments in climbing and hope to see more videos like this. Enjoy the Road.
PS: Good fight on the 6c, congratulation!
Awesome fight at the end!
I've climbed for quite a long time (10+ years) and still get those days where the fear gets the better of me - I think it's important to not beat yourself up over it, just work through it! On routes that are safe I've been trying to embrace a "no takes, only falls" approach to build resilience to the fear.
"Everyday is a school day in rock climbing" hit me real hard, so glad you go the send man! This was a sweet video!
That last route was a proper fight ! You have insane endurance, especially when climbing a bit scared makes you griping everything way too much. I really didn't think you'd do it when I first started hearing you power screaming, well done mate !
There are definitely times I find myself getting a little scared even in my gym lol. I call it the heebie jeebies. I have climbed taller gyms, but some days I just get the jeebies and it impacts my climbing. It's something I'm working on mentally, and it's very rewarding to make progress! Huge confidence boost to watch your videos before going to the gym!
Well done Mike, I totally get the fear thing, I usually only climb things I'm not going to fall off. Really inspirational video!
that's great you found it inspirational. Cheers!
Brilliant effort on the 6c mate, great send and a great battle 💪
So cool to see Kieran on in the video as well, super nice dude and super talented. Would highly recommend if you’re wanting pictures taken.
thanks for watching 😊
Thanks a lot Kev! Hope to see you again on the island 😊
@@KieranJDuncan definitely will mate, already booked for the same time next year 💪
love the narration style mike !
As a fellow Scot on their journey of getting over the fear on lead, I loved the video, v relatable and so nice to see someone chat about it in a vid
Kalymnos is so beautiful. And the food is great too! Climbing paradise is absolutely right!
It really is!
Excellent progress! We are so proud of your achievements! You CAN climb!
♥
I took that moment where you self analyse your distances to heart. I've been bouldering for a few years, but I only see out of one eye meaning I have no depth perception. It's interesting to me to see how others deal with that kind of fear not knowing how far you might fall
7a ….. such a big moment in any climbers journey. You’re gonna have to work hard….but that makes that first 7a tick all the more rewarding . 🤞
can't wait!
Holy heartwarming guys!!❤
Your relationship with your wife is so wholesome! Reminds me of the geowizard and his wife. Really nice to see!
hey mike i noticed the way you clip draws, if you fliped the way around to what you usually do its a lot safer because the biner can unclip itself if its pulled upwards but that doesn't happen by flipping how you do it.
Cracking effort Mike. GG! Thanks, helps a lot!
Banger video, so proud of you
sick video, i was climbing in another state and had a similar experience to you! when you're really used to a particular type of rock, being 30m up on a different type of rock can feel terrifying!
This is becoming my favorite climbing channel, keep it up!
thanks a lot!
This reminds me of my first sport climbing trip. Thanks for sharing your process so candidly
Glad you enjoyed it!
I'm finally going for my lead climbing certifications, as a long time top roper. I'm pretty scared as I had an accident while building routes leading to less trust in my belayer for no reason, as my fall was a freak accident self belaying.
Honestly glad to see your struggles and hope you approach them, and hope to take some confidence from it. It's okay to be scared, and better safe than dead.
Wicked stuff! Looking forward to the next one.
Coming soon!
Kalymnos looks absolutely incredible, I’m heading there tomorrow and I can’t wait to do some climbing
Enjoy!
You've come a long way already. Good job! :)
I am a bit jealous of your progress as someone stuck on lower 6's due to fear of falling... Hopefully I can push on as well. Glad you had fun in Greece. There are amazing sport crags all over the country, even for the hottest of summer days!
It's a real battle - I stopped climbing for a few years because I only had one good go in me each day until I lost my nerve!
ive been to kalymnos in the spring of this year and last. awsome to see your experience
Great effin' work on the 6c send there! Having the right people with you really makes a big difference. I only recently got my first 6c lead indoors, but it all came down to having a belayer who wouldn't let me quit. There were like 4 different times where I wanted to quit, but they kept telling me I had it. I didn't believe them, but clearly they weren't going to take 🤣and so I ended up onsighting my first 6c. I'm about 3/4 up my indoor project 7a! But still fighting that tendency to over-grip so hard I can't actually link all the segments.
7a next. Let's go. You one hundo percent got it in you.
absolutely. Finding the right people is half the battle!
Very very good series so far, keep them coming!
Thanks, will do! I'll be projecting my first 7a route this week if the weather holds!
Looking and sounding like a real climber there, Mike!
I was climbing on Kalymnos around eight years ago. A wonderful place to climb! Recommended for everyone.
Gotta love good old holiday grades in Kalymnos, maybe only place in the world that's as soft is Leonidio.
Sounds like I need holiday to Leonidio
@@MikeBoydClimbs it's not directly by the sea but it's incredibly beautiful. Less touristy than Kalymnos, and the village is filled with the friendliest locals. Fully recommend
Honestly, the biggest takeaway from this video is that Kim is just the best.
and that is how the turns can table!! awesome video, it unfolded like a movie!! :D
Thank you very much!
Mate if you can flsh 6c, you're more than ready to start with projecting and climbing 7a, especially if you find one that fits your preferred style. Looking forward to the next videos
Well done we started climbing in the same time and you are going great good luck
thumnail really got me. need that disclaimer for myself every time i get on to a climb haha
Welcome to the lmestone world Mike, where a route that used to be a 6a 20 years ago, still is a 6a, but with polished as f* feet 😂.
Great work on this paradise!! Hopefully I can visit it sometime soon!
Cheers
Fantastic episode! Im struggle with the same issues as you when it comes to less bold above the last bolt. I really enjoyed this video
Glad you enjoyed it!
congrats mike!
I'm in the same boat as you here. Good luck! Beautiful place
Best of luck!
I know kalymnos is kinda easy for their grades, for most at least. Still youre doing an insane job. Once you get propper foottech, a feeling for propper resting and a better mental. You'll go ham. You're crazy strong.
working on the footwork 💪🦶
Nice work. Do what you did with the baby falls every time you go out. Just stick clip up something hard to where its a safe fall then do the falls from each move up to where you could clip the next bolt. You're gonna rocket through grades once you learn to relax more. More you fall the more you realize it's safe. Its tough on stuff under 11 or 6b cause it usually has more ledges.
I still get scared and have to redo this system even climbing 7b. Onsiting is the scariest because you're introducing so many unknowns into your system. New rock, unknown holds, unknown falls, etc. thats why it's good to start with this every time you go out.
Awesome video as always
thanks a lot ♥
I always dream of going to Kalymnos to climb! must have been super fun!
If you can, I highly recommend making the trip!
a couple of years ago I had to bail from a route due to fear. Looking down seeing the last bolt being a meter under my feet and looking up and having a few more moves to the next one just took a toll on me. I managed to climb to the next bolt, clip in and had to be lowered off. Despite the route probably being easy enough that I could climb it multiple times over, even on an off day. Fear can really get you
totally. A bolt 1 meter below your feet with a few moves to go is a scary prospect. Good on you for managing to clip
Props to Kim 😊🙌
And good fight on the onsight 6c 💪
thanks! Technically it was only a flash as Kieran was giving some beta.
Love your vids as we seem to be having parallel climbing journeys. We took our climbing gear to Cyprus back end of last year for our 1st experience of climbing abroad, (seems to be very similar - though shorter) - was truly amazing. My missus is also my belayer - saved my bacon many times. :D
that's awesome. we're on the same path 💪💪
@@MikeBoydClimbs Did you also have that 1st time on limestone feeling of "What is this smooth, edgy horribleness? I'm soo not used to this.". Was so strange my fear got the better of me on a 5a! 🤣 I can totally relate to your apprehension. It really is a bitch to get through once it takes root.
Congrats to your great effort in the 6c route, Mike! By the way - we met briefly in Prego restaurant while waiting at the 'billing' desk. Hence your nice episode caused beautiful memories. And furthermore - your belayer is top, my wife is also known as best belayer😊
Nice to meet you, Sven. Hopefully we meet again
good job mike!
2min in, already loving this
let me know what you think by the end 😉
I hope Kim got to climb too!
she did! She also was feeling intimidated, so not as much climbing for her.
Just some random swiss people in the background 16:17 😂
yes, not even in beautiful Greece on some rock you're safe from Züritüütsch 😂
I haven't been climbing outdoors in a while but i used to get the jitters every time i showed up to a crag. I figured out if i went up a few bolts and took an intentional fall with some slack it'd give me a fun whip and get rid of the spookiness
I think I need to do it everytime now
That last climb was so good!!! Well done I also have a fear of fall. I take baby falls as well.
thanks for watching!
Wow 😳 that final route you climbed, I was squeezing my phone really hard while watching. 😅Well done!
I'm happy you got some grip strength training whilst watching 💪
😂😂
I love Kaly, I'm going back in a couple of weeks, even though it is hardly the best conditions
I've heard it's fine if you find the shade. I'm sure it'll be great
You need to learn how to properly tie a figure eight without all that tail. And get it closer to your belay loop. Great job though! Always awesome to see someone overcoming challenges.
Thanks. It’s actually got a bit of fraying so I try to isolate by tying a bigger knot!
@@MikeBoydClimbs I'd say; keep the tail at about under 30cm, and make sure when you're tying the figure it, that it's always super snug by the belay loop. It'll come out really neat and clean that way. Practice :)
Hey Mike, if you ever want to try climbing in a place similar (but different!) to this one, in another island in the mediterranean (Sardinia) feel free to ask me some questions!
2:08 Gotta love the mini top gear episode
😎
Off topic, but I'm curious, what is your highest grade boulder that you sent now?
v5 (indoors)
@Mike Excellent seriously in awe. Am a V0/1 (dont laugh) boulderer, looking at a two day west of Ireland trad course - how long before you have the skill/confidence and safety knowledge to book a trip such as this. You by your nature have had some pro tutors. But for normals?
For me (at the stage I'm at), trad is much more about knowledge of how to stay safe than it is about climbing ability. I believe anyone would benefit from a course. There's still a lot of knowledge that goes into belaying and seconding. So go for it I say! (Trad actually offers a lot of easier routes, since most bolters only equip areas where there is no protection)
great job mate.
Thanks 👍
Will you do more mountain biking stuff on the main channel?
likely not. Too many injuries!
If you can flash 6c, surely with a bit of time projecting you should be able to do 7a without too much issue
I want to climb with the Mike Boyd :)
For a second, I thought I clicked on a top gear video.
Kalymnos is awesome, it’s been far too long since I last went there
I really loved it there. Booked another trip already!
I cant believe you only needed those tiny falls under the bolt to get your mojo back! Didn't your heart rate increase the second you were above the bolt? I'm surprised you didnt take a "small" fall above the bolt. Then again Kalymnos does look very generously bolted which is wonderful.
I actually didn't even realize I was falling below the bolt and also didn't know how much above the bolt I was when I clipped for the next bolt! Ignorance is bliss 👌
Mike Boyd needs to colab with Hazel Findlay and Strong Mind, would be the best thing for his climbing.
agreed!
Im also on a journey to 7a atm :D
good luck!
I want to return to kalymnos😢
Have you been climbing at moy rock mike?
not yet. Is it worth the trip?
@@MikeBoydClimbs it offers an interesting style on conglomerate. We locals call it pulling on potatoes as opposed to the pocket conglomerate in Spain. Check it out on ukc. There is a lot of great climbing out west, if you can handle the midgies.
ok now I'm absolutely jealous. You could spend months on that island and not repeat a route lol. :)
probably years!
Question: does your partner climb as well, or does she have to belay all the time xD
And one advice: Fall practice isn't a "do it once, and your done" type of thing. fall practice should either come naturally, when you projecting hard, or HAVE to do once in a while to overcome that fear. learned it myself the hard way :)
she climbs too. But she isn't too keen on being on lead just yet. I agree with the fall mentality. It needs to be maintained.
Routes are really overgraded in kaly
meh I dunno. Some felt soft. Some felt way too hard for the grade as well. Its a mixed bag.