How to build a safe dryer vent. Best materials to use for a dryer vent.
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- čas přidán 9. 04. 2013
- www.dryer-vent-doctor.com In this video Matt from the Dryer Vent Doctor explains the best and safest materials to use when building a dryer vent. He tells you how to do it and what materials not to use.
As a retired general contractor, I've used the (flamable) Flex-tape, with screws, and regular gray tape for various clients. I'm redoing my dryer exhaust for my home. I came across your short film which was very helpful. Back in the day when I was working, home owners wanted the cheapest way out, period. The alternative to flex hose was 4" hot water exhaust metal pipe. Only one in ten preferred to pay the additional few dollars for a better system. Thank god no one I did repairs for ever had a fire. Thank you again for good info!
I thought you might like to know that I have watched about a dozen different videos that offer tips and tutorials on dryer vent systems. This video is by the best that I've seen. It was straight to the point and you covered all the most important information without rambling on or providing unnecessary info.
This is the video I was looking for. I appreciate you taking the time to share this info with us and I look forward to installing my new vent system the right way. Thanks again!
This is probably one of the best dryer venting videos out there. I do want to mention that most codes dictate dryer vent runs to be no more than 25 feet, and for each 90° turn you should subtract 5 feet less than that.In other words if you have 2 90° turns in the venting the total run should be no more than 15 feet. But this is a great video.
Hi Doug ... my dryer vent is too far , roughly 25 feet away ,,, what is the maximum 90 degree allow by code (4 or 5 ?? ) ,, can you tell me please , thank you .
I mean 90 degree elbow .
There's a specific building code that covers deductions for turns. Sharp 90° turns require more deduction than gradual turns.
Thanks for the excellent information. Sadly lots of places use the crappy slinky flammable dryer vents. Also thanks for the tip on no screws and the aluminum duct tape.
It's amazing they let homebuilders get by with this. My dryer caught fire via faulty thermocouple that let the element get to hot. The gentleman doing this vid is ABSOLUTLY CORRECT about the cheap foil vent, It will catch fire because once a dryer catches fire those vents act as a chimney pulling the flame into the vent itself .
Thank the good Lord I was able to jerk the burning foil down while my wife beat out the flames with a wet towel before our house caught on fire because my venting was about a 20' run across my basement ceiling but was trying it's hardest to catch the insulation of my house subflooring afire .My hands got badly burned a blistered in the panic, flames were coming out of that stuff like a flamethrower .
Had that been vented through the attic the unthinkable may have happened. HEED this man's word on that cheap foil stuff, it should be OUTLAWED it is a death trap waiting to happen ! And NEVER EVER leave a dryer on while you sleep or while your away ! It is also wise to locate a fire extinguisher close by , I now have one beside the dryer.
in the attic you can see you ran your rigid duct in the wrong direction, your joints should fit into the downwind pipe, you do not get lint caught in the joints that way. it also minimizes turbulence in the pipe and gives better airflow.
This is so helpful! I’m so thankful for you to be sharing this important information.
Wow Thank you ,I’m a new home owner and everything thing you’re talking about with slingie duct I’m experiencing my inspector didn’t catch this during my home owners inspection 😡Thanks again for the good information 😄
I didn't know about the flammable material or about non-installation of screws. My vent run will have to go into the 3 ft crawlspace and vent outside at the lowest part of the house. Thank you very much for the concise information. I've subscribed. Perhaps I'll continue to learn from your instructions. Jose
This is so helpful for me. You explained all the important information I need to know about replacing the old dryer vent. Thank you so much.
You have cleared up so much I was needing to know. I worried about the fire hazard for sure. Thank you.
Wow, thank you! I actually did everything you recommended because I focus on quality.... But I never realized the importance... Glad I inadvertently did it right!
thank you so for the information, we had the flexible slinky duct installed in our townhome and a dryer flex just laying around the house. We quickly switched! thanks again!
Oh my goodness thank u so much Fr ur info!
I have the slingy one in my apartment right now but will be replacing it tommrrw & I will not be using my dryer until it’s replaced!
Thank u so much Fr saving our lives ur a true blessing!!
😧🙏🫶
Thanks for creating the vid and your positive contribution to the youtube community. In your installation do you believe it prudent to install a dryer booster fan considering the long, seemingly, long run of duct?
No screws!! I was just about to screw my system together thanks for this!!
I like the 90 degree elbow and took that from your video and ordered one. Not sure why you were calling the solid 4 inch vent aluminum as it is steel but it is what it is.
Very helpful and easy to understand video. Thanks!
This was a very helpful video, thank you so much 😊
Thanks for this video. Very helpful!
This video is the best I’ve seen on the subject!! Thx
My apartment has the same aluminum flexible duct going directly to the basement. It is disgusting because this kind of duct accumulates lints easily. And because most of the duct is hidden behind the wall and it probably curls into angles it is hard to clean. I don’t understand why don’t people just use the hard straight duct. I think you should always use that one outside the room. The flexible type is only suitable for connecting a visible space from the wall to your dryer.
Thanks for this. Very helpful.
Excellent presentation and information. Thank you for doing this!
What do you use to insulate a dryer vent going directly outside from laundry room? Room is very cold. As well, how do you attach the hose to the back of the dryer and then push back against the wall, so the hose or pipe is not too long? Thanks for the update on the flexible hose, that it is not safe.
Just FYI, IRC for 2012-NEW construction code M1601.4.1 requires a minimum of 3 screws equally spaced and not extending more than 1/8” at all joints and seems
Most mechanical fasteners being used in the mechanical field are no less than 1/2 in. in length and do penetrate the duct more than 1/8 inch. This is why it is important to use the correct fasteners such as 1/8 in. grip rivets. Once the rivet goes through both portions of the pipe at the fitted joint and compressed, it is less than the allowed protrusion. But many contractors are too lazy and don’t want to take the time to add three points, evenly spaced out, to fasten using rivets at each joint. Our company does! But we are the few!
Thanks man I'm hooking up my dryer tomorrow
Also do you need the aluminum tape as well as the clamps for both the connections at the dryer and the exterior vent pipe?
Thank you..... 10 years later still important
Thank you so much for this video!! I learned so much. I have always been OCD about keeping my dryer vents and the traps i side the dryer clear because of the fire hazards. I recently bought a new home with the dryer vent going up to the attic space and out the side like the one in this video and I have been terrified of it. 🫣😆 I had never seen one like this before. I am going to get my son to check it out thoroughly now to make sure everything is like you said it should be. I am so thankful to have found your video!
Good job, but in my research, most say to keep length to about 15' and that each 90 deg bend adds about 4', so you look to have well over 20', which supposedly requires a booster fan. What do you think?
You’ll have the same issue with clogging because that duct looks to be longer than 25’ which is the maximum length for dryer duct. Every elbow adds 5’ to the length and there looks to be at least 2-90 Degree turns! This will cause the lint to collect in your duct no matter what type of hose you use because at 25’ or longer, the moisture from your dryer stays inside the duct. After awhile your cloths won’t dry and your dryer will get very hot on the outside... that in itself is a fire hazard. A dryer duct this long requires a booster fan at least 15’ downstream from your dryer!
GE dryers can vent 120 ft
@@BB-bp6vn But if the next tenant doesn't use such a dryer the problem still persists.
Nice to know that. Would pvc work with clean out?
That looks to be an incredible distance for the venting of a dryer. Unless you have a “phenomenal blower” on your dryer I do not see how it’s possible for the lint and moisture to travel all the way up your wall into the attic and then make a sharpe, 90 degree turn and travel additional distance of what appears to be another 15’ to 20’, if not more. Dryers should be vented to the closest outside wall. I sincerely encourage you to hire a professional who can advise you, or call your locale county Buiding Inspector’s office to inquire about what your city code requires. It is better to be safe than sorry.
Brenda....go back to the goddamn kitchen, make me a sandwich, and keep your fooking mouth closed!
@@jhi1947 Whaaa
damn brenda. thank god you dont make sandwiches for this guy, he would probably kill you for forgetting the cheese. I found your point quite accurate enough based of varying city codes
@@jhi1947 You sound like the kind of guy that chugs an entire beer to look manly, but goes to hide in the bathroom after feeling 'dizzy'
Best video. My vent is in the floor. Any special recommendations on how to keep lint from from blowing back into the house?
I need help i did the same hard pipe installation same length and everything with a dryer box but is it normal for the pipe to get really hot will it cause any damage to the drywall or anything ?
In Canada where it gets cold the duct has to be insulated to prevent it getting wet with condensation in the attic during winter.
Great video! Thanks!
What would you use or recommend when you are behind the dryer it doesn’t go int the wall. It goes straight into the floor. Then through the crawl space and out the end of the house. It has that crappy slinky hose under the house and I know it’s not safe and It comes loose often.
i recommend the Magvent . it makes it very easy to clean. it makes it look clean behind the dryer
It seems like a great idea as long as its metal.
Gracias for the video.
I inside wall duct is damaged at the end that comes out of the wall. Is there anything I can connect to it to reach out of the wall to connect to my vent tube that goes to the dryer?
Thank you for the video!!
Thank you so much!!
I have a dryer about 8 feet from a block glass with a vent. The room is not heated or cooled...it;s in a basement. Is there a pre-insulated metal solution I can use?
Good video, but I have read the maximum recommended safe exhaust pipe distance from a dryer to the exit port is 25 feet, MINUS five feet for each 90 degree bend in the travel. You do not mention this in your video. Any comment?
Also, I see the run in the attic is straight pipe (not flex). Would you recommend straight pipe over flex wherever possible, as the lint tends to build up quicker in flex?
Absolutely use straight pipe and get away from ANY of these internally ribbed . . . foiled or even the super dooper alum. pipe that was shown here . . . I have seen tests that show A HOT FLAME WILL BURN THROUGH EITHER OF THESE in as little as 20 seconds. At 2:20 did you hear him say . . . Hopefully Contained? and Hopefully Not Spread ?
There are 15,000 of these fires a year and some have claimed lives . . . Why Chance it ???
Use a $5 STEEL (not alum) 4in.Adjustable Elbow ( they are 8in. in length un-adjusted ) and as safe as you are going to get.
There is a specific building code that covers max duct length and how much to deduct for turns.
What do you when you come through the header? Just squash the duct down a bit?
All the houses down here have long vertical dryer vents. I blow mine out with my leave blower every year.
thank you very much for your video.
I hope that whomever installed my dryer vent has the opportunity to watch your post. Nicely done.
Thank you.
my dryer area is cramped for space. will the metal one work?
thanks, excellent video.
Very helpful. Thanks.
thanks, i have been in the remodeling business for years and never really thought about dryer venting too much. i did know that fires used to start in dryer vents so i figured i look it up. this video came #2 on youtube. i am glad i stayed tuned through the repetitive first chapter. i have a thing about being told the same thing over and over, that drives me crazy. videos have a rewind function and it should be used by those who didn't quite catch what was said the first time around. that aside, i would have built my dryer vent all wrong if i hadn't watched this video, so thanks for taking the time to record and post this video, you may have just saved my family's life or our house from fire. thanks again
one thing i forgot to ask at 3:44 there is a small line connected to the vent near the dryer, what is it?
It would be really nice if youtube had a 20-30 second rewind button.
Excellent video! But I have a question! I found two small hole in my dryer vent, can I use foil tape to repair/seal the holes?
Aluminum tape can be used - it is the safest to use for duct work
I appreciate you posting this video. It was helpful. Where can one pick up long sections of that fully rigid aluminum tube that you ran in the attic? I'm having a hard time coming up with anything relevant on Google.
cameldrags i recently bought 3 of the expandable aluminum vent pieces when my son tried to pull it a little to expand it pulled and it twisted and then a big hole so i immediately took all back to home depot they didnt have very much to choose from anyway so where is the best store to buy dryer vents
Thank you. Very good.
Hi this was helpful thanks for sharing
I had p-lastic & removed it & got the slinky aluminum one..I had noise in my dryer & Sears who came out several times over $125.00 & 90 days later howling again..I was told by an honest handyman to disconnect it & see if it sops, it did..but still have the problem with it going through linoleum floor down & it vents to my crawlspace...Now what?! Anybody do work in Fort Myers manufactured home= smallish crawl space, too.
Great video, but what about condensation?
I'd like to see just one video that shows how you connect the duct work to the back of the dryer when it's only 8" from the wall in the back and no room on the sides.
alphaone101 , from the dryer to the wall, you use a semi-rigid, metal vent (or that "Dryer Flex" that he showed at the begining...one of the two "good ones" he showed). It's flexible to allow you to pull out the dryer to gain access.
hi I am a dry repairman and I also clean dryer vents and the way you would install that is you move the washing machine a way. you always install your dryer first you would move away the washing machine you would move the dryer forward you then hook up the vent to the wall then you hook it up to the back of the dryer and then you push the dryer back cuz you're working on the side cuz you are where the washing machine is supposed to be. And then you would install the washing machine
The first
@@yudshvat what if your washing machine doesnt move away? Ours is stuck behind our pedestal sink. For me to get back there I need the vent to expand to 3 ft and then compress to 8 inches. So far I've not been able to make it work
I dunno how well it works, but there is a company that makes a magnetic coupler for tight spaces like that. Otherwise most people hook up a flexible pipe and try not to crush it too much as they push the dryer back.
Thanks that helped me so much
I need to install a duct from the attic to the side wall of the house. Is there a video on how to do that? Currently my dryer vent is connected to the attic so all the heat is escaping into the attic
very informative
Thanks!
Vertical runs of dryer vent is risky business. Cleaning protocols would need to be more frequent.
How about metal claps at the joints over the aluminum tape?
Duct wrap has to be used to insulate the pipe in attic, to avoid condensation.
Make sure it is foil duct tape
Good stuff
Thank you !!!!!
No screws (at connection points) makes sense, but I've never heard of aluminum tape, and I imagine it will cost a fortune (for my limited income, everything over $5 is a fortune) - my aluminum hose came equipped with adjustable rings that are tightened/loosened by an external screw. They have served me well so far, but, what do the pros say?
You the man brotha
Can you share the make and manufacturer of the semi rigid piping with the swivel elbows? Looking on Lowes and HD I read reviews that they don't have swivel elbows or the clamps are a POS. Yours looks well made. I'd like to be able to purchase your exact unit.
SAME HERE!!
Hi where could I buy the metal one with the 2 90 degree angles
Thank you so much I see why sears said I wasn’t in compliance I had the duck that you did not recommend
Was there a mention of how long the vent hose should be between dryer and vent? Yours looks really short, but our landlord has 4-5ft of it coming from the wall
The foil ducts actually contain a bit of a plastic lining (not as much material as vinyl, but still won't hold up in a fire). It would actually be better if it were paper
BRAVO.
And where does the lint go? It goes thru the duct but where doest eventually end up? Im building a home , and this kind of dryers arent popular here in midle east but i love them so im gonna take thid in consedration. Help please
@Paul Cox thank you sir for taking the time to ansower. Much appreciated
what company makes the heavy duty aluminum one?
They’re all similar. Just make sure it’s rigid metal. You’ll find it at Home Depot.
Hey Doc; I have a customer who has a dryer vent from his Electric dryer on the 2nd floor of his home that goes into his cold attic. The metal duct then runs on an upward 45 degree angle 25ft to the other side of his home and exits the roof. This creates so much condensation and drips through his drywall. Do you think insulated duct will work?
I think insulated is code in many areas for just this reason.
I have the same problem, mine goes almost exactly as the one in the video... ceiling is ruined and thinking of running it through the floor to the side of the house. I have tried insulation for the pipe, still gets condensation.
Thanks bro
Do you recommend an inline turbo fan to assist in ventilation for that length of venting?
In-line vent fans are not recommended for dryer vents. They can harbor lint and do not allow for cleaning through the vent.
Brandon Beane I have a 20ft horizontal run of sheet metal venting out though my attic, but the strapping was poorly done and I have condensation in the tube. Where the vent tube sagged, I have moisture damage on the bedroom ceiling ... what should I do??
@@informednovicethey do when they are installed in accordance with UL 705.
@@jeremiahharris5002 I understand that according to UL 705 it "can" be done. As I stated they are not "recommended". The real reason is because they harbor lint all throughout their working components. They cause a major issue with restrictions in the venting. I have been in this business for a long time and would never consider putting my name on one of these devices unless it is for "air only" applications. The ultimate resolution for a proper dryer vent is the shortest run possible and limited elbows.
There is no Dryer Vent in CA. What is the next best brand to purchase?
How long can it be before you have to put a booster fan? Thanks
The requirement for a DEPV
Dryer Exhaust Power Ventilator is when the dryer exhaust exceeds the code requirement for equivalent length.
In my area we are subject to the 2018IRC which allows a net equivalent length of 35 ft.
Even then, there is only a requirement for a warning tag to be installed at the dryer connection point and no need of a DEPV is required as there are many dryers of which are manufactured today that can vent longer lengths than this. We always error on the side of the Net equivalent length because there are still some dryers that cannot do that length.
THANK YOUUUUUU!!!🙌🏼
It appears in the attic that you have the Crimped end of your 4 inch pipe pointing to the outlet of the dryer that is Incorrect all crimped ends must point to the outside or they will catch lint and plug up eventually
Yes, Yes, Yes.... That crimped end at the top of the 90 degree elbow will be the #1 lint catcher. A crimped end must point toward the exterior.
In a perfect world there would be a short duct run to the outside and as few elbows as possible and no verticle ducting.
Can you use rivets? I just had to rebuild one for my parents and I thought the same thing about using screws so I used rivets.
Rivets aren't flush inside the pipe. Mine are taped with the aluminum tape. I wrapped metal straps around the pipe to support it in the attic and attached the straps to the house framing. Works great.
Tape is only used to seal, never to support or hold the dryer exhaust together.
1/8 inch grip rivets are the proper fasteners to use as 1/2 sheet metal screws penetrate the interior of the duct greater than the 1/8 inch maximum. Proper fasteners should be installed at a minimum of three points equally spaced apart around each fitted joint.
Been there, done that!
I'm renting a very old trailer that has a triangular vent both on the inside going to the outside vent and my dryer is circular.
My last house had the dryer vented thru the attic. It's probably the absolute worst way to vent a dryer. The lint can not travel straight up for that distance. It all collects in the bottom elbow. Also, moisture has a hard time too, and it will collect in the bottom elbow and create water. Water plus lint equals a blocked dryer vent. I had to install a drain line in the elbow and tie it in with the washing machine drain to keep it dry. The laundry room was located in the middle of the house, it is just a horrible location for venting. If I had stayed there any longer, I would have put an inline exhaust fan in the attic to help it pull the dryer air up the wall and out of the roof. Terrible design in an otherwise cool house.
At 3:38 in the video it shows a clear plastic tubing connected to a black plug on top of the dryer vent. What is that?
Your right what is that?
@@eaglekeeper7737 Here for same question
Ditto... WTF?
Had the same question, looks to be a "Lint Alert Safety Alarm"
Caution, flex rigid is allowed the other two are not according to manufacturers supplied instructions. I would only use rigid and last resort flex rigid.
Thank good I found this video. Stupid Lowes sold me the flammable flex foil for my dryer vent, to replace the vinyl one some idiot before me had installed, which was even scorched on the inside! I surely would have had a house fire. Now, since my town is full of idiots, where can I order the correct kind?
dryer vent doctor - please, I need one of those kits you recommend !! thank you!1
Isn't the horizontal uninsulated metal duct run in the attic going to condense a lot of moisture during colder months? That wouldn't be great for the attic :-(
Some say if you add a drop incline the moisture should drop on the outside or just add insulation but professionals say never add insulation to dryer duct
Install hard metal round ducts in the wall and attic. That’s the code
4" duct...3.5" 2x4 walls...I'm screwed.
I was told you never vent out the soffit because that soffit is supposed to pull outside cool air in and run up along the sheathing and out the ridge vent when you vent out the soffit you're essentially going to draw that moist hot air right back in along the sheathing and over time you'll start to see black mold where you exited that dryer vent out the soffit
What do you do when a dryer vent pipe is disconnected inside a wall and is inaccessible? Cut a hole in the wall?
Yes