I bought my first Carbon Frame ROad Bike when I was 300 pounds (135 kgs.) and I was really scared to break the bike in 2 and get really hurt. I am 100 pounds less now and, after 3 years, I ride the same bike :)
Hills must be quite the challenge, but at least the Domane should climb well for a road bike. I'm only 260lbs and have lost about 15lbs since I started riding again last year and I still feel it big time on climbs, especially technical climbs on my MTB.
I have the same bike. I'm not quite in the same weight category as you but I will say that I did go tubeless on my stock wheels and installed Vittoria 700x37 gravel tires (they measured out to almost 40 really) and I will say it made a world of difference in the ride of the bike. Not that the 32mm were not good already just I live in a very rural area of West Virgina and they (32mm) didn't handle the sometimes gravel roads that I like to ride.
Impressive, I am 198cm and just under 120kg. I wouldn´t trust a carbon bike even if I were 80kg. I ride a Giant alu 3x10 Shimano 105. Heavy yes, but I get up pretty much anywhere.
Even as a light weight cyclist (185cm/70kg) I find this channel, because Your calm "feet on the ground" -presentation of all angles of every day cycling, a top notch! Information presented is for every cyclist. Even for us, a little more progressed Sunday cyclists.. thank You for that. Though pizza shouldn't never be under valuated; one of my main basic food item of the day! :)
@Mr Zazovia I live on area where highest point is 50m from sea level. And that is a rock in middle of forest. Just did a 100km ride with only under 500m "climbing".. so it's impossible to train ascenting or descenting. Need to go to Alps and this summer it's not possible. :( But yes, I love climbing and getting fast down at Alps! :)) Good climber.. well, that's a different question, but anyway it's "fun" to reach summits.
Thanks for this video. As a heavy cyclist myself, and having helped other cyclist in same class, here is what I have learned: 1) Add the pie plate cassette. An 11-40 with 50/34 does wonders for hills 2) Use largest tire the frame and fork can accommodate. Better ride and protection from pinch flats 3) Use seat clamp with largest clamping surface. This has cured slippery seat post 4) For mechanical brakes (rim and disk) replace housing with compressionless type. It really does improve brake feel and performance 5) For disc brakes, upgrade front rotor to next size up; usually +20mm. Cheap insurance when you are descending a steep section 6) check for loose spokes periodically
I am both a large cyclist and a bike mechanic and I like your list. I'd also add, look for wheels with a higher spoke count, and learn how to true a wheel.
I would add double butted touring wheels, paricularly the rear with an uprated hub. I run a much wider 700c rear tyre, 45mm wide and a 34mm at the front. I also use a heavy duty 29r mtb tube in the rear tyre which works a treat. I also used to break modern plastic saddles, even expensive ones. A Brooks B17 solved that problem.
I've definitely taken a few of those steps. I ride a MTB, so I have the SRAM eagle 11-50t cassette with 30t chainring, would probably climb up a vertical cliff haha. I got lucky with my seatpost as my dropper post is the perfect length while fully inserted into the frame. And I upgraded my brakes to 203/180 Shimano XT rotors with metallic pads, huge braking improvement. I do find I need to run a few psi more in the tires than a skinny rider or I will ping my rim on rocks.
I started at 218 kgs on a Giant Suede. Very few issues. Since then I’ve developed a taste for cycling; Greenways and MTB trails. I currently have a Kona Rove and a Santa Cruz Chameleon. Both awesome bikes. I’m down 54 kgs, loving being on my bike.
Hey Brandon Parker, I really want to buy a bike but you see I’m 160kg and I’m really afraid to waste my money on a bike that will break. Can you seriously vouch to me that you’re bike could handle +200kg??? I’m not trying to be disrespectful I just really need help.
@@zaideglover5749 Can I guarantee that a bike won’t break? No. Two things I have learned about bicycles: 1) The wheels are usually lower quality on new bikes so the company can hit their price point. 2) Shit happens. Being a larger rider means we put more strain on the wheels, the drivetrain. All of that to say, cycling is an investment. I was really hesitant when I started out, spending money. It is frustrating trying to learn the ins and outs of your bike. You will need to spend money and time with patience. I just did a 30 km ride with 244 meters of elevation ride on my Santa Cruz Chameleon. I weigh 166kg. You have to take a chance and sometimes upgrade your components
@@zaideglover5749 Your local bike shop would be the best place. I don’t think one brand is better than another, besides they pretty much use the same components. Steel framed bikes are awesome. A 26” wheel is stronger because it is smaller, but I like 27.5/650b. Make sure the spoke count is at least 32. Shimano SLX freehub did well for me, but SRAM 700 series broke on me. Dropper posts are cool, but some are made with plastic components… so a regular seat post is stronger. Good luck 😎🤓
I started on an emtb a year ago at 114kg for commuting to work, I now ride a road bike for the same journey and do it in way less time, as a stepping stone back into cycling the ebike was a godsend, having the confidence to go out riding because I knew that if I struggle I can bump up the assistance and get back no problem. When I ride my ebike now, I ride in eco mode or turn the motor off completely if I really want a good work out. I'm down to 100kg so far @ 6ft :)
I started at 180kg on a alu Merida Speeder with a (shop-built) humble 32 spoke Tiagra wheelset. Never an issue, no broken spokens or even loss of true; just rear tyres every 2000 km.
204 cm or 6`8" in imperial at 135 kilos/297lbs, I ride a Surly LHT and ECR, both are touring steel frames with hand built 36 spoke wheels. Frames are rated for 160 kilos, rider and luggage. The LHT has a 3X Sugino touring set-up and the inner ring is just for hills, not feasible for anything other than climbing, but that it does quite well. Not very fast as such, but it gets around. The ECR has a 1X11 at the moment but that was the only thing possible to source last year, it will get the 2X cranks I bought for it, when I find a fitting front derailleur. Somewhat keen to upgrade the LHT for something with Disc brakes, though, it has V-brakes at the moment. Speed for me is not of the essence, but I have trodden the LHT to 42 km/h, and that was more than enough. :-)
I am an older heavier rider. I absolutely love my 700c Surly Disc Trucker frame custom built with Shimano Ultegra road components and 36h DT Swiss TK 540 wheels with Onyx hubs. It rides smooth and quiet.
If you are 350 lbs (25 st) or above then your absolute best option is a Touring Bike! ...they are purposely made to carry heavy loads, steel frame, high spoke count, geometry designed for good weight distribution are all standard features of most touring bikes - Kona Sutra, Salsa Marrakesh, Surly Disc Trucker & Trek 520 are the most popular touring bikes!
In my experience - down to 225 lbs. from 260 - most carbon fiber frames can handle heavy riders just fine. It’s all about the wheels. When I kept loosening and popping spokes on the OEM Wheels on my Giant Defy Advanced 1 (2014), my bike shop recommended Velocity Deep V wheels (32 spoke). They are a go-to wheel for Clydesdale cyclists. In 6 years I’ve never had to have those wheels trued.
@@jawg2392 Yes. You set the brake on both front wheels. You can attach two front post extension handles that serve perfectly to hold on to as you lower yourself in and to grab on to as you pull yourself back up and out. Not hard at all. Check out the Velotechnik Scorpion PLUS. Its seat is higher and more forward leaning. Test ride some models.
Can I just say I find your videos information, entertaining and inspiring. I'm over 60 and just fallen in love with cycling once again, however on an e-bike (sorry to some reading this). I'm now out and about almost each day and go at least 15 miles and about twice a week about 40. Just love being out there and not have to worry too much about those hills.
Even if you don't lose weight immediately you will still be better off for it. My blood pressure and resting heart rate/etc. have dramatically improved since riding regularly again.
When I started riding I was almost 450 pounds. I had zero confidence in a road bike supporting my weight so I bought a hybrid with an alloy frame and fork, and a stout 32 spoke wheel set. After losing about 150 pounds I’m still riding that bike but I’ve converted to drop bar. It’s a heavier bike but it’s strong and I have no concerns about supporting my weight, and with the drop bar it’s very comfortable.
I'm 200 pounds and have three aluminum and one carbon fiber bikes. During each month of riding I would expect to break at least one spoke in at least three of my bikes. Always the rear wheels! Four more spokes in each wheel took care of the problem. It was also recommended that I replace my rear 23mm tire with a 25mm. The fact that its recommended pressure is 80 pounds and not 100 plus seems to have made the difference. I also broke a front spoke just dropping six inches off a sidewalk even with both brakes on. The additional force on the front wheel was about zero but it still broke. I no longer take any chances going down hills at speed and use the brakes on every hill. When a single spoke brakes on my bike, the entire wheel locks up. This is bad enough on a rear wheel, but I don't even want to think about it happening on the front! When I first bought these bikes I was told that they had a weight limit of up to 500 pounds. In their dreams. Before buying any new bike I would strongly suggest that you bring an expert with you. I would recommend 25mm tires for both the front and back if you're over 160 pounds. I believe that the maximum tire pressure of these tires is 80 pounds. This should take care of the problem. Don't forget a high spoke number. What you save up front, you are going to spend in energy pushing your bike home or worse! My longest push home was 12 miles! I see what they mean when they tell us that biking is great for weight loss. (Mike Scott, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada)
Mike Scott Mate with a disk brake endurance bike you’ll likely fit a 32 tyre in there and run a very cushioning 60 psi. You’ll fit 28’s on most rim brake bikes and 80 psi would be the max you’d need. They roll better and all. Cheapest upgrade for speed and comfort.
Thanks for the great information! Since I'm 77 years old I probably won't be starting over again. You sound as if you know what you're talking about. I should have brought you with me four bikes ago! Thanks again.
I ride an ebike as a heavier ride with lung function issues and I love it. I ride more often and further because of it. Any nay sayers just dont understand and I pity their blinkered thought process. Great video, thanks.
No shame in e-bikes. It's getting you out there. It got me started and conditioned physically and mentally enough to get onto a road bike. I know of cyclists with heart issues who use them to keep up with the peleton.
For the heavier rider, I'm surprised that you didn't mention getting a Touring bike. I ride a Trek 520, not going to beat a racing bike but a great riding experience (even with loaded panniers on the back), plus the gear ratios are great too!
I made up my mind last year. As son as I decided how much I was willing to pay - I went to a local manufacture. They build the frame according to your measurements from scratch. And one of the first remarks was: We size up the top tube one size, no problem.
Good video. As a rider currently at 120kg, down from 160kg, I agree with pretty much everything you've said. I would suggest looking at cyclocross or gravel bikes rather than a road bike. Unless you're dead set on a particular road bike, a cross bike will be a bit more comfortable, a bit stronger, and not really any slower. Or, as my favorite bike shop guy said when I wanted to "upgrade" to a faster bike: "It's not the bike that's fast - it's the engine. Ride the bike you've got and you'll get faster." Get wider tires. It's more comfortable, and it'll let you support your extra weight without super high air pressures. 28mm would be my minimum. 32mm is just fine on the road. I personally ride 40mm tires since I spend a lot of time on gravel. I'm sure they slow me down a bit when I'm on pavement, but it's not a noticeable amount.
@@kevinfernandez38 It depends on what's available in your area. I'm a fan of the Salsa Vaya or Cutthroat. I ride a Cutthroat. The Cannondale Topstone rides nice, as does the Orbea Terra. Really whatever brand is supported where you are, and whatever material (steel, aluminum, carbon) that you can afford and like. Your weight won't break a carbon frame unless you crash it, I promise. Most people ride gravel on 32mm tires, more or less. I prefer something closer to 40mm. It evens out the ride, and I don't feel like it slows me down at all. So - anything that can take a 40mm tire and that feels good when you ride it. I suggest going for longer chainstays (430mm+) and lower bottom brackets (70mm drop is nice). Buy what you can afford and like. Ride it like it comes from the shop to start. Ride it for a while. Wheels are the most likely problem area. If you start to have wheels breaking spokes or going out of true, buy a new wheelset. A well built wheelset with 32 spokes front and back should be fine. Go for 36 spokes if you really worry about it. After that, you just want comfort. Good tires and a good saddle are important. I have a Redshift Sports shock stem and seatpost for more cushion. They aren't really necessary. But if you're going to spend 4 or more hours in the saddle, everything you can do to make it more comfortable helps.
That was quite well informative. However, one very, very important thing that you missed out. Tyre pressure. It should be increased roughly 1bar for roughly every extra 25kg. So if your tyres optimal pressure is like 7bar (which is for like 80kg heavy rider), and you weight 130kg, you should at least put 9bar of pressure. So very, very important thing is to have tyres with as large as possible maximum pressure rating!
As a heavier rider, I chose a CrMo steel frame. Maybe its a few pounds heavier than carbon, but I am unlikely to notice that small difference because of my size. I did have to get a wheel set replaced however, but it was still under warranty. Also, I only found Trek to list weight limits for its bikes. The rest of the information came from a very helpful bike shop owner.
Great content! Spot on. I’d say that a modest gravel bike is ideal for stronger riders and a e-bike for weaker riders or riders who face many steep hills. I’m 85kg, and I find that 28mm tires are right for me. Smooth 32mm tires would be perfect for heavier riders on the road. That additional compliance could help avoid pinch flats (go tubeless!) and would help reduce sharp forces on the wheels, fork, frame, and rider. My wife has an e-bike. I live on a steep hill. I’d never ride her bike for fitness or fun, but I love using it on a hot day for a quick trip to the hardware store. I can put the goods in the panniers and return home without being drenched and out of breath. One tip: go for mid drive, rather than hub drive. Mid drive will have an oversized bottom bracket, and that’s where the forces are applied. Hub drive puts the forces on the spindly, little dropouts. My local bike shop recently had a failed dropout on an ebike conversion with hub drive, and the rider was a small, thin woman. The bike frame was ruined. So yeah, mid-drive. Love the channel, Leonard! Everybody can ride!
Perhaps being a conversion the dropouts weren't built to withstand the additional weight and stress. My E bike is built like a tank and weighs as much. It's a hub drive but the next one will be crank drive because it's a much smoother and more natural ride
Good advice. The only thing I would question would be your choice of gears. A 34 front and 30 back is too high for most heavy riders in my opinion. I would always opt for a higher sprocket count on the back than the front. For example my lowest gear is 36 at the back and 30 on the front (0.83 ratio). This gets me up anything and is so much easier than a 30 back, 34 front (1.13 ratio). This is why I love my old triples with 50,39,30 on the front and 12-36 on the back. This gives a very wide range of gears and does not sacrifice either end of the scale. Trouble with doubles is 34 front is usually the lowest you can get in order to retain a reasonable size big partnering ring of 50 on the front. This limits the lower gear potential. Bike manufacturers are not helping heavier riders here.
I bought a Salsa Journeyman (adventure/gravel bike) last year. I love it! My goal was to get off the streets when possible. I changed out the stock tires (WTB Riddler) to Specialized Pathfinder Pro's (38 mm) and what a difference on pavement! The middle of the tire is smooth, much like a road tire, but it still maintains a tread on the sides for those days that I hit the gravel and days that the ride hits both surfaces. The best part is with the tire change the rolling resistance is nearly the same as my Trek road bike. The geometry is also a little more slack and as I've aged, it's a bit more comfortable. I can also run the tire pressure a little lower which absorbs some of the vibration and shock that gives me real issues in my hands. This bike also has mechanical disc brakes that are fantastic. I chose not to go with hydraulics as I was worried about having issues and potential brake failures if there was a problem with the brake line. Personally, I'd never go back to rim brakes.
Thanks Leonard, I especially appreciate your comments on steering tubes, an area of the bike that has concerned me greatly since owning 2 Viscount Aerospace bikes back in the 1970's. I never had a problem with either of those bikes, and only in later years found out how dangerous they supposedly were. Your videos are always a source of pleasure, and a lesson in the English language.
I have got a Claude Butler Dalesman touring bike made from Reynolds steel tubing, 36 spoke wheels, 700x32 tyres and a 3rd low climbing cogg, ideal for carrying heavy weights including my carcass...😊
Agree with disc brakes, I would never go back to rims. Ran out of brakes on a mates bike in Dorset scary, same hill with discs no dramas even in the wet
As an MTBer, I would never ride rim brakes again, and would absolute go disc on a road bike. Even on my MTB I went up to 203mm front rotor and metallic pads to help improve the braking.
Thanks for the video, I weigh about 26 stone, I have a specialized cross trail. I've had problems with broken spokes cracked rims and broken hubs.when I was riding I could feel the rear wheel flexing. So what I have done is bought a set of built up 700c mag alloy wheels of Ebay, fitted straight on and feels so good now when riding. Deffo worth a look
What did you mean with "heavier cyclists"? Did you mean gravitationally challenged? 😉 I sat once on an e-bike of friends for a couple of kilometers on the way to a lake for swimming and the way back. 😎 My 1st impression: the road and the bicycle paths in a hilly forest become flatter/more even/less hilly. The added force/power of the electric motor comes smoothly and increases gradually with the needed Watts when you accelerate after a red light or when you cycle uphill. You just feel the difference if you shut the motor off - ooooof. 😳
I think the Gravel bike tip is great: higher handlebar position & the possibility for wider tires make for a more foregoing ride & a more achievable position. Also don’t go for bike with a lot of integrated parts: when you loose weight & become more flexible you might want a longer stem, or one that doesn’t point upwards. Buy your bike smaller rather then bigger as that gives room to play with measurements & the diamond shape of the frame is stronger when it’s relative smaller.
I agree. I was thinking the same thing, before he mentioned it. plus, drop bars can be uncomfortable/awkward for heavier riders. I've seem a few manufacturers are offering gravel bikes with MTB style flat bars. Which also brings me to say, a heavier rider shouldn't sneer at a XC style MTB. usually a beefier frame than a gravel bike, it's not as slack as a trail/endure/all mountain style, and that front suspension fork can sometimes make for a bit of a smoother ride for bad joints. the off road tires could always be replaced with something with a bit less rolling resistance, too.
The nice part about a gravel bike is, put road tires on it, and you basically have a sturdy, endurance road bike. I've seen some gravel bike riders who have a set of 32c tires for road and wider tires for gravel. Gravel bike is definitely much closer to a road bike, they are still reasonably fast, usually have road friendly gearing with good climbing gears, but not super low MTB gears which spin out real quick.
And it's almost comical how quickly a modern MTB runs out of gears, by about 19mph my trail bike is spun out since the fastest gear is only 30/11, but the climbing gear is 30/50, so can climb some seriously steep stuff.
Im 6'5 350. In decent shape and like to mountain bike. Being this large just by genetics causes problems cause noone makes stuff for you. Thanks for video
I’m 17st, I got a Boardman adventure bike (ADV8.9) I love the sturdy frame and the larger tyres and yet it still rides like a road bike. Perfect for a larger rider.
Hey mate . Thanks for making this video as i am a heavier rider too at 130 kgs its good to know there is others out there and the information is very helpful .
New bike day for me at the beginning of June. It's been on order since mid April but, well, COVID-19 and that. Just been frantically checking the maximum weight, thought I'd covered everything before I ordered. Turns out at 98kgs and 5'8" I should be OK. Thanks for another great video Leonard.
You don't use a household hammer to nail down a commerical roof. Its all about the tool ( bike) you use, with the right one and size can ride. I ride a Rocky Mountain Growler trail MTB. I started at 6'1'', and 145KG. Now down to 129KG after 10 months. Got a long way to go, but I got started somewhere so you can too :)
I'm a little over 6'5" and weigh around 98kg and have got into the habit of building my own wheels 32 spoke with alloy rims and high spoke tension. Definitely recommend hand built wheels for larger riders.
The bike builder I am looking at (Ribble CGR725) have nothing bigger than 24 spokes. My road bike has 36 which I don't want to reduce down from, for a Gravel bike. Plenty of research still to do.
Mornin Leonard, someone else mentioned 650b's. I was listening to one of guys at WTB explain why they brought them back. The outer diam. is 700c though there is a large air cuchion. Also keep in mind the recomended tire pressures are for dudes that weigh no more than 165. So a little more pressure for larger riders is what he recomends. A few bike builders to take a look at are All City, and Surly. They are very well built, and steel is real. The road/gravel bike in Surly's line up have a 300lb weight limit. Thanks for addressing us of large stature.
Thanks for the video. Just wanted to add that I would pay attention to the wheels first. My previous bike was Giant Roam - everything was fine but the wheels were just a disaster for the rider like me (127kg at the moment). Even when rims were still fine, aluminum spokes broke about 3-5 times, and every time I had to take to the bike shop where they put a new steel spoke and true the wheel and yes, it costs money, time and the Joy from your riding. When I asked mechanics what to do they advised to buy a set of touring wheel with steel spokes OR to buy a new bike with good wheels our of the box because it will make more sense if I won't tu upgrade the bike somewhere in future. And at the end I sold my Roam and bought Fuji Jari 2.5 on Chromoly frame with GOOD wheels. And I started to love cycling again - roads, gravel, forest trails - all good, 2 years and everything is still fine. All other equipment is not so important, I mean derailleurs/shifters etc - if it works and tuned up your weight won't affect them. Even the frame is not so important if you are not doing some hardcore riding. Thanks again.
I got a Breezer Radar bike steel frame and love it! Frame is super tough and has survived some bumpy mountain biking. Plus it has clearance for real 29in tires.
Thank you for this video. I’m 49 and very overweight (290 pounds) and have just received the “get in shape or else” encouragement from a medical specialist. I was a cyclist in my youth and loved it. Need to get back to it but was curious about this topic. Great information. I will start out with a mountain bike and go from there. Thanks again for the video as well as the inspiration! Keep up the great work!
Excellent well measured advice thanks Len (may I call you Len!?) Lots of love for gravel bikes in the comments, and I too recently bought one. Mostly because I fancy touring and the gravel bike is a little more relaxed than road and has rack/guard mounts. It does have stronger wheels (32 spoke) fair gearing (compact with 11-32) and hydraulic disks. All these things make it perfect for the more gravitationally challenged amongst us! P.S. I loved the 'very honest' clips in your video, like trying to clip in at 4:30!
Like your vids. I am 65, in great health, no comorbidities. I started seriuosly biking in 2020, in Michigan USA where winters are long. I am doing either a 12 or 18 mile ride everyday the weather permits. But my heart rate on treadmill at 3.6 miles per hour at maximum incline, doing 4 miles per day when weather keeps me from biking, is 125-128 beats per minute. I am going to measure my heartbeat when biking in future. Reason i bring this up is because I see in comments much higher heart rates & puzzled. But for my age a maximum 130 heart beats per minute is recommended. Just food for though for the older riders.
Despite a little bit below the 120 mark with 115kg, chose a gravel bike for the peace of mind... With 2 disc wheelsets, one with 40c gravel tires and the other with 32c slicks, it feels like a green SUV, fueled by beer instead of diesel. All tubeless, all flawless so far... Could not be happier... Bike can do anything other than help me uphill 🤷🏼♂️.
I've broken carbon, steel, and aluminum frames. I have a whole shed full of broken rear wheels. Only 36 spokes for me now. I finally threw in the towel and bought a gravel bike. Should have done that years ago. It rides so much better on these horrible paved roads around here in Appalachia. Another great video Leonard. BTW--120K is 265 pounds, not 165 pounds. Ah, don't I wish :-)
My new bike is a 1976 Raleigh Grand Prix. It is currently being remodeled in my shop. New bottom bracket and cranks. New, meaning 36 yo Shimano 105's from my parts box. Spring is coming near!
I don't classify myself as a larger rider, but this is the second of your videos that I have watched and I really like them. Anything that encourages more people to ride and lays their fears to rest about cycling (whether it's related to body size or anything else) can only be a good thing.
Great coverage of this subject! I'm 6'5 ,113kg and I have carbon and aluminium bikes. 32spoke F/R on aluminium and 20F/24R on carbon. All rims are DTswiss and haven't popped a spoke yet. Also I ride 52/36 w/175mm crankarm, chainsets, I find them great for climbs. I don't have disc brakes on either bike, this is not much of a problem where I live in SoCal we get little to no rain here. But if get another new bike day, (I have 4 since '17) I'll get discs for sure. Thanks for the info Mr. Lee...ride on.
I'm 118-120kg and looking to purchase a Boardman Team Carbon, I'm glad that I was able to stumble upon your channel it gave me the extra push to go with the purchase. CHEERS!
Leonard, as a heavier rider myself, I love your channel. I ride mountain bikes, but I still love your vids. I really think a network like GCN should bring you in as another perspective, and hopefully get more people on a bike, regardless of what kind it is!
Great video. I think I'm in this category. Was popping spokes and actually switched to full carbon wheels with advice from my local bike shop. They are very strong and the flat DT spokes seem to be holding up well. The wheels I bought were the Bontrager Aeolus Pro 5 TLR disc model. Bike is a Felt VR5. I'm getting back into riding more this year. It's been great.
I have two bikes, one with a huge weight limit as its a tourer. the other is a steel frame, carbon fork gravel bike. The latter has a weight limit of 135 Kilos (I think!) and interestingly the manufacturer told me that the limiting factor is the weight limit of the wheels!
This is such a good video on explaining some things it took some learning curve to figure out! Being 198cm tall and 136kg makes it a bit difficult to find a bike for you, and it definitely makes you the odd man out riding. In my experience I've learned that a proper fit, through axles, and hydraulic disc brakes are the way to go, because if you try to stop 136kg going down hill at 65kph those rim brakes will not work.
I had managed to get myself down from 119kg to 105kg over the last year or so. During that time I've been riding an alloy mountain bike, an alloy gravel bike and latterly a carbon road bike. Unfortunately during covid 19 lockdown here in NZ I'd been working from home and found myself far too close to the fridge. Subsequently I'm now at 112kg again! So my carbon bike has an advisory of maximum 125kg including bike (which I guess weighs about 8-10kg perhaps?). So once I've got shoes, attire and a riding backpack on, I would be just over the maximum load for the bike. As a result I've been riding my gravel bike, which I figure is heavier with more rolling resistance and thus helping me to lose weight faster anyway! My goal is to get back onto my carbon bike. I typically refer my carbon bike to that of a Porsche relative to my Golf GTi gravel bike. Both quite fast, but one is much faster!! Love your videos Leonard. Cheers!
I sold my Domane 5.2 some years back and bought a Kona Sutra touring bike. I love it. It's not fast, but it is rather agile and extremely comfortable. That being said I am beginning to miss the road bike. Maybe a new one in the wind. Cheers mate, good video 👍
In truth, the information is interesting and important. In my case I reached 100 kg and I had not paid attention to the number of spokes of the rear wheel. It is certainly something to consider for added security
I weigh about 330 lbs. I am 6 foot tall. Im a big guy and noticed the spokes breaking on almost every ride. I have a Felt verza path 10. I recently purchased a 32 spoke heavy rim and it works great! 500 miles on the new rim and no bad spokes as of yet. I was at 370 lbs. So slowly but surely the weight is coming off.
Used to pop spokes - realised it was too much pressure running heavy panniers when I was also heavier - far too much torque. Even 32 spoked wheels! Lost weight, back to a back pack and sending 'heavier stuff' to work solved that! (My LBS said I was too rough and hard on the bike!)
Im 6'1 128kgs rider. Switched to gravel steel bike from the giant ar aloy. No regrets. Glad I made the switch. I now enjoy my ride better than my former giant bike which has dfuse seatpost which sometimes create creaking sound.
As an 18 stone rider, I have never broken a spoke....a rim failed but not the spokes!!! Turned out it was a faulty rim fortunately. I have recently purchased a E road bike (Specialized Creo) to go along side my Roubaix and Tarmac. Does make climbing a breeze, but the bike is not as quick on the flat due to the added weight. I use all my bikes and just falls to the type of ride I am doing. Solo hilly rides and I tend to use the Ebike, group rides will go with a normal bike. Horses for course as they say. I would encourage people to try an Ebike as they are a hoot to ride, especially uphill.
I can definitely recommend the GIANT TOUGHROAD SLR 1 (2020). It's a bit overkill on the cargo racks, I took them off and the only real downside was that the hand grips needed replacing (as they were not comfortable).
A steel touring bike is a great alternative for the heavier rider, maybe not as quick as a carbon bike however the steel frame is more than capable to carry the extra weight and the lower gears will help going up the hills. Unfortunately they seem to have lost favour with the new generation of cyclists, the classic Claud Butler Dalesman and the Dawes Galaxy with steel Reynolds tubing have been discontinued. Gravel bikes appear to be the new trend at the moment.
Great video’s sir, well done 👍, I purchased a Pinnacle Arkose D2, gravel/adventure bike, seriously never looked back. Changed the tyres to marathons 700x32, a bit more all round tyre. If you are not a name snob, love gravel tracks it’s perfect 👌🏻
Halfords crossfire e-bike been a nightmare. Pinging spokes even after a swap of a new wheel and new spokes, Went to a independent dealer (voided warranty as problems from new) in the end who made a new rim and spokes never had a problem and now is a joy to ride. Arthritis of the knee and weigh 355lbs
100kg rider here. I could have gotten a carbon framed Cannondale Synapse but I opted for the alu model, disc brake. Built me 2 32-spoke wheels for peace of mind.and use 28mm tyres. 4 years, still true. I keep the 28-spoke cheap wheels as backup. I could save 5-7 lbs with a higher spec'd carbon model but... I'd rather try to loose 5-7lbs of pizza muscle... good video
Great video Leonard, very informative, If I were heavier I would steer away from carbon framed bikes until my weight dropped, I have 105 brakes which are very good but would agree disc would be better especially in the wet. Gravel bike is a win win, stronger frame, wider tyres, plus a bit of off-road, plus most come with disc brakes. Hope you feeling better now your getting out more, take care mate, Alan.
I reckon gravel is the best bet for heavy cyclists and also for all rounder road bikes. 46/30 is good for any types of terrain yeh? I’ve got 52/36 but im now considering gravel bike and their 46/30 gearing plus bigger tyre equals more comfort all day of riding 🙂
As a morbidly obese and junior senior citizen rider these would be my tips: - Gravel bike is the way to go- frames are usually rated at 275 lbs to 325 lbs. - Get good wheels. Through axel is preferable especially if you're getting disk brakes. If you're going for disk brakes get hydraulic. - 28 mm tires should be the smallest. I ride on both 25 mm and 28 mm and no difference in speed or slowness. 32 mm slicks are good too, especially for puncture resistance and comfort. - Make sure when you buy your bike that the seat post supports your weight. - Steel bikes are good but I don't see much advantage since most quality aluminum alloy frames have lifetime warranty on them. Not sure, but carbon forks seem pretty standard. Haven't heard about durability but I ride with one and I can see the benefit in terms of stiffness and reduced flex.
I build wheels myself for heavier people and i am pretty large myself. I like to use 32 spokes minimum for heavy riders to make sure wheels wil last over the years, DT350 hubs, DT Competition spokes and brass nipples, Ryde rims and if that’s not enough, Hope hubs with 36 holes and DT Alpine 3 spokes.
I'm 5'11" and on May 20, 2020 weighed 264.5 lbs.. I was very into MTB in the 90's early 2000's. As of today July 3, 2020 I'm down to 238 lbs. I started by walking(1.4-1.6 miles) on my lunch break and walking 45-60 minutes(2.6-3.2 miles) in the evening. I also started eating differently and try staying under 2200 calories a day. During the work week I'll often be under 2000 calories. I weigh all my portions and keep track of my caloric intake on my phone app. I recently decided to purchase a bike and decided to go with a gravel bike and looked at the used bike market. I ended up picking up a used Lynskey titanium gravel bike($1350) for the durability of the ti frame. I personally think steel(cheaper) or titanium ($$) are the best options for us heavier riders. I also agree with your recommendations about good wheels and avoiding carbon steerer tubes. I recommend doing your research and not rush purchasing to get the most bang for your buck.
@@jollygoodvelo Thanks for the reply. Yes I'm enjoying it and am seeking out good riding locations both road and rail trails(old railroad lines converted to trails). I also should've added that I also do mix in Nordictrack ski machine sessions especially when it is hot/humid outside. I actually just finished a 40 minute session(700 calories). Also the best thing is I am 55 and on blood pressure medication and because of my much lower pressure my Doctor just took me off of Amlodipine and my goal is to hopefully one day be off of the other medication as well. Be well and stay safe on your rides.
I took up cycling again 15 years ago after spending a week in hospital with massive blood pressure. Initially, I continually broke bikes. The reason for this was budget bikes that were wrong for my type of riding. A cheap drop handlebar bike on rolled mud/shale & towpaths was never right for someone 121kg / 270 lbs doing 40 miles a week. I swapped to a slightly better straight handlebar hybrid. Then I found that I now only broke spokes and cracked wheels and hubs which was progress but not the answer. A load of research took me to European style trekking bikes in the £1-2k price range. They are a cross between a tourer and a hard tail mountain bike. Importantly they use strong frames, robust double butted wheels, disc brakes, and front suspension. They often have a rear rack but you can remove that. Finally, I have an unbreakable bike which when combined with 700c schwalbe plus puncture resistant tyres means that I just put my bike in the shed after a ride and dont have to fix it every week unlike the old days. If you are heavy and ride towpaths, fire roads and gentle trails that dont justify a mountain bike then consider a trekking bike. Cube do multiple models and I have been delighted with them and I just bought my third. Alternativey buy a decent aluminium full suspension mountain bike from one of the big manufacturers in a similar price range. I have one as well as my trekking bike and have so far never broken it despite having ridden it 2000 miles.
Another brilliant video for a newbie oldie, who was built for comfort rather than speed 😊. For “speed” I have motorcycles. Only found your site yesterday mate, but finding it massively helpful. Loved the “beer and pizza muscle” reference 🤣
I bought my first Carbon Frame ROad Bike when I was 300 pounds (135 kgs.) and I was really scared to break the bike in 2 and get really hurt. I am 100 pounds less now and, after 3 years, I ride the same bike :)
Well done, sir!
Good for you, just shows what you can achieve if you really want to
Bravo!!
Hi, I’m 300 pounds high now too... how carbon frame brand you thank is strongest? congratulations for your success.
Way to go 💪🏾
I’m 340 pounds or 154 kilos. And I am riding a 2020 Trek Domane SL5. Been a great bike close to 1000 miles on it currently.
Whats the weight limit? Carbon frame? Im 300
Hills must be quite the challenge, but at least the Domane should climb well for a road bike. I'm only 260lbs and have lost about 15lbs since I started riding again last year and I still feel it big time on climbs, especially technical climbs on my MTB.
I have the same bike. I'm not quite in the same weight category as you but I will say that I did go tubeless on my stock wheels and installed Vittoria 700x37 gravel tires (they measured out to almost 40 really) and I will say it made a world of difference in the ride of the bike. Not that the 32mm were not good already just I live in a very rural area of West Virgina and they (32mm) didn't handle the sometimes gravel roads that I like to ride.
Impressive, I am 198cm and just under 120kg. I wouldn´t trust a carbon bike even if I were 80kg. I ride a Giant alu 3x10 Shimano 105. Heavy yes, but I get up pretty much anywhere.
I'm 315 and I ride a speacialized crosstrail, aluminum, I love it
Even as a light weight cyclist (185cm/70kg) I find this channel, because Your calm "feet on the ground" -presentation of all angles of every day cycling, a top notch! Information presented is for every cyclist. Even for us, a little more progressed Sunday cyclists.. thank You for that. Though pizza shouldn't never be under valuated; one of my main basic food item of the day! :)
@Mr Zazovia I live on area where highest point is 50m from sea level. And that is a rock in middle of forest. Just did a 100km ride with only under 500m "climbing".. so it's impossible to train ascenting or descenting. Need to go to Alps and this summer it's not possible. :(
But yes, I love climbing and getting fast down at Alps! :)) Good climber.. well, that's a different question, but anyway it's "fun" to reach summits.
"Whatever you weigh, it shouldn't be too difficult to find a bike to suit you"
"Never exceed the manufacturer's maximum weight limit"
Then no bicycle for me
LOL
I am now and I’m terrified lol
Thanks for this video. As a heavy cyclist myself, and having helped other cyclist in same class, here is what I have learned:
1) Add the pie plate cassette. An 11-40 with 50/34 does wonders for hills
2) Use largest tire the frame and fork can accommodate. Better ride and protection from pinch flats
3) Use seat clamp with largest clamping surface. This has cured slippery seat post
4) For mechanical brakes (rim and disk) replace housing with compressionless type. It really does improve brake feel and performance
5) For disc brakes, upgrade front rotor to next size up; usually +20mm. Cheap insurance when you are descending a steep section
6) check for loose spokes periodically
I am both a large cyclist and a bike mechanic and I like your list. I'd also add, look for wheels with a higher spoke count, and learn how to true a wheel.
I would add double butted touring wheels, paricularly the rear with an uprated hub. I run a much wider 700c rear tyre, 45mm wide and a 34mm at the front. I also use a heavy duty 29r mtb tube in the rear tyre which works a treat. I also used to break modern plastic saddles, even expensive ones. A Brooks B17 solved that problem.
I've definitely taken a few of those steps. I ride a MTB, so I have the SRAM eagle 11-50t cassette with 30t chainring, would probably climb up a vertical cliff haha. I got lucky with my seatpost as my dropper post is the perfect length while fully inserted into the frame. And I upgraded my brakes to 203/180 Shimano XT rotors with metallic pads, huge braking improvement. I do find I need to run a few psi more in the tires than a skinny rider or I will ping my rim on rocks.
I started at 218 kgs on a Giant Suede. Very few issues. Since then I’ve developed a taste for cycling; Greenways and MTB trails. I currently have a Kona Rove and a Santa Cruz Chameleon. Both awesome bikes. I’m down 54 kgs, loving being on my bike.
Hey Brandon Parker, I really want to buy a bike but you see I’m 160kg and I’m really afraid to waste my money on a bike that will break. Can you seriously vouch to me that you’re bike could handle +200kg??? I’m not trying to be disrespectful I just really need help.
@@zaideglover5749 Can I guarantee that a bike won’t break? No. Two things I have learned about bicycles: 1) The wheels are usually lower quality on new bikes so the company can hit their price point. 2) Shit happens.
Being a larger rider means we put more strain on the wheels, the drivetrain.
All of that to say, cycling is an investment. I was really hesitant when I started out, spending money. It is frustrating trying to learn the ins and outs of your bike.
You will need to spend money and time with patience.
I just did a 30 km ride with 244 meters of elevation ride on my Santa Cruz Chameleon. I weigh 166kg.
You have to take a chance and sometimes upgrade your components
@@brandonparker6962 thank you, you have been very helpful, do you have any way telling me where I can get a decent bike
@@zaideglover5749 Your local bike shop would be the best place. I don’t think one brand is better than another, besides they pretty much use the same components.
Steel framed bikes are awesome. A 26” wheel is stronger because it is smaller, but I like 27.5/650b. Make sure the spoke count is at least 32. Shimano SLX freehub did well for me, but SRAM 700 series broke on me. Dropper posts are cool, but some are made with plastic components… so a regular seat post is stronger.
Good luck 😎🤓
I started on an emtb a year ago at 114kg for commuting to work, I now ride a road bike for the same journey and do it in way less time, as a stepping stone back into cycling the ebike was a godsend, having the confidence to go out riding because I knew that if I struggle I can bump up the assistance and get back no problem. When I ride my ebike now, I ride in eco mode or turn the motor off completely if I really want a good work out. I'm down to 100kg so far @ 6ft :)
Im 300 lbs
And im lookingvto do the same thing you did can you suggest an e bike capable enough to get started with.
I started at 180kg on a alu Merida Speeder with a (shop-built) humble 32 spoke Tiagra wheelset. Never an issue, no broken spokens or even loss of true; just rear tyres every 2000 km.
204 cm or 6`8" in imperial at 135 kilos/297lbs, I ride a Surly LHT and ECR, both are touring steel frames with hand built 36 spoke wheels. Frames are rated for 160 kilos, rider and luggage. The LHT has a 3X Sugino touring set-up and the inner ring is just for hills, not feasible for anything other than climbing, but that it does quite well. Not very fast as such, but it gets around. The ECR has a 1X11 at the moment but that was the only thing possible to source last year, it will get the 2X cranks I bought for it, when I find a fitting front derailleur. Somewhat keen to upgrade the LHT for something with Disc brakes, though, it has V-brakes at the moment. Speed for me is not of the essence, but I have trodden the LHT to 42 km/h, and that was more than enough. :-)
I am an older heavier rider. I absolutely love my 700c Surly Disc Trucker frame custom built with Shimano Ultegra road components and 36h DT Swiss TK 540 wheels with Onyx hubs. It rides smooth and quiet.
If you are 350 lbs (25 st) or above then your absolute best option is a Touring Bike! ...they are purposely made to carry heavy loads, steel frame, high spoke count, geometry designed for good weight distribution are all standard features of most touring bikes - Kona Sutra, Salsa Marrakesh, Surly Disc Trucker & Trek 520 are the most popular touring bikes!
What do you think of something like a marin four corners 2021? Idk if the wheels would be ok for 400lbs though
In my experience - down to 225 lbs. from 260 - most carbon fiber frames can handle heavy riders just fine. It’s all about the wheels. When I kept loosening and popping spokes on the OEM Wheels on my Giant Defy Advanced 1 (2014), my bike shop recommended Velocity Deep V wheels (32 spoke). They are a go-to wheel for Clydesdale cyclists. In 6 years I’ve never had to have those wheels trued.
Yesterday, I rode a FOLDIND
RECUMBENT TRIKE for over 4 hours. It is a Greenspeed Magnum XL and will hold a rider up to 475 lbs.
Could you get out tho ?
@@jawg2392 Yes. You set the brake on both front wheels. You can attach two front post extension handles that serve perfectly to hold on to as you lower yourself in and to grab on to as you pull yourself back up and out. Not hard at all. Check out the Velotechnik Scorpion PLUS. Its seat is higher and more forward leaning. Test ride some models.
Can I just say I find your videos information, entertaining and inspiring. I'm over 60 and just fallen in love with cycling once again, however on an e-bike (sorry to some reading this). I'm now out and about almost each day and go at least 15 miles and about twice a week about 40. Just love being out there and not have to worry too much about those hills.
Dont apologise!!!!
@@stevegreenwood8168 Agreed. E-bikes, trikes and recumbents were created to make cycling MORE inclusive.
Looking to start cycling to loose weight and and as a heavier person found this video incredibly helpful on what to look out for. Thanx
Even if you don't lose weight immediately you will still be better off for it. My blood pressure and resting heart rate/etc. have dramatically improved since riding regularly again.
36 spokes, heavier gauge spokes, and double wall alloy rims on a robust aluminum frame. That has been working for me...😎 great video mate!
When I started riding I was almost 450 pounds. I had zero confidence in a road bike supporting my weight so I bought a hybrid with an alloy frame and fork, and a stout 32 spoke wheel set. After losing about 150 pounds I’m still riding that bike but I’ve converted to drop bar. It’s a heavier bike but it’s strong and I have no concerns about supporting my weight, and with the drop bar it’s very comfortable.
I'm 200 pounds and have three aluminum and one carbon fiber bikes. During each month of riding I would expect to break at least one spoke in at least three of my bikes. Always the rear wheels! Four more spokes in each wheel took care of the problem. It was also recommended that I replace my rear 23mm tire with a 25mm. The fact that its recommended pressure is 80 pounds and not 100 plus seems to have made the difference. I also broke a front spoke just dropping six inches off a sidewalk even with both brakes on. The additional force on the front wheel was about zero but it still broke. I no longer take any chances going down hills at speed and use the brakes on every hill. When a single spoke brakes on my bike, the entire wheel locks up. This is bad enough on a rear wheel, but I don't even want to think about it happening on the front! When I first bought these bikes I was told that they had a weight limit of up to 500 pounds. In their dreams. Before buying any new bike I would strongly suggest that you bring an expert with you. I would recommend 25mm tires for both the front and back if you're over 160 pounds. I believe that the maximum tire pressure of these tires is 80 pounds. This should take care of the problem. Don't forget a high spoke number. What you save up front, you are going to spend in energy pushing your bike home or worse! My longest push home was 12 miles! I see what they mean when they tell us that biking is great for weight loss. (Mike Scott, Ottawa, Ontario, Canada)
Mike Scott Mate with a disk brake endurance bike you’ll likely fit a 32 tyre in there and run a very cushioning 60 psi. You’ll fit 28’s on most rim brake bikes and 80 psi would be the max you’d need. They roll better and all. Cheapest upgrade for speed and comfort.
Thanks for the great information! Since I'm 77 years old I probably won't be starting over again. You sound as if you know what you're talking about. I should have brought you with me four bikes ago! Thanks again.
I ride an ebike as a heavier ride with lung function issues and I love it. I ride more often and further because of it. Any nay sayers just dont understand and I pity their blinkered thought process.
Great video, thanks.
No shame in e-bikes. It's getting you out there. It got me started and conditioned physically and mentally enough to get onto a road bike. I know of cyclists with heart issues who use them to keep up with the peleton.
No shame if you have health issues!
For the heavier rider, I'm surprised that you didn't mention getting a Touring bike. I ride a Trek 520, not going to beat a racing bike but a great riding experience (even with loaded panniers on the back), plus the gear ratios are great too!
yes my Kona sutra is lovely
He likely hasnt tried one yet.
The "old beer and pizza muscle" - my great strength!
I made up my mind last year. As son as I decided how much I was willing to pay - I went to a local manufacture. They build the frame according to your measurements from scratch. And one of the first remarks was: We size up the top tube one size, no problem.
Det Dat Can I ask who your local manufacturer is?
Good video. As a rider currently at 120kg, down from 160kg, I agree with pretty much everything you've said. I would suggest looking at cyclocross or gravel bikes rather than a road bike. Unless you're dead set on a particular road bike, a cross bike will be a bit more comfortable, a bit stronger, and not really any slower. Or, as my favorite bike shop guy said when I wanted to "upgrade" to a faster bike: "It's not the bike that's fast - it's the engine. Ride the bike you've got and you'll get faster."
Get wider tires. It's more comfortable, and it'll let you support your extra weight without super high air pressures. 28mm would be my minimum. 32mm is just fine on the road. I personally ride 40mm tires since I spend a lot of time on gravel. I'm sure they slow me down a bit when I'm on pavement, but it's not a noticeable amount.
Sir what gravel bike do you recommend for a 130kg weight
@@kevinfernandez38 It depends on what's available in your area. I'm a fan of the Salsa Vaya or Cutthroat. I ride a Cutthroat. The Cannondale Topstone rides nice, as does the Orbea Terra. Really whatever brand is supported where you are, and whatever material (steel, aluminum, carbon) that you can afford and like. Your weight won't break a carbon frame unless you crash it, I promise.
Most people ride gravel on 32mm tires, more or less. I prefer something closer to 40mm. It evens out the ride, and I don't feel like it slows me down at all. So - anything that can take a 40mm tire and that feels good when you ride it. I suggest going for longer chainstays (430mm+) and lower bottom brackets (70mm drop is nice). Buy what you can afford and like. Ride it like it comes from the shop to start. Ride it for a while. Wheels are the most likely problem area. If you start to have wheels breaking spokes or going out of true, buy a new wheelset. A well built wheelset with 32 spokes front and back should be fine. Go for 36 spokes if you really worry about it.
After that, you just want comfort. Good tires and a good saddle are important. I have a Redshift Sports shock stem and seatpost for more cushion. They aren't really necessary. But if you're going to spend 4 or more hours in the saddle, everything you can do to make it more comfortable helps.
Thanks a lot for these great tips sir!
@@kevinfernandez38 You're welcome!
Leo, your conversion of kg to lbs is going to cost you that Nobel prize for physics!!!
That was quite well informative. However, one very, very important thing that you missed out. Tyre pressure. It should be increased roughly 1bar for roughly every extra 25kg. So if your tyres optimal pressure is like 7bar (which is for like 80kg heavy rider), and you weight 130kg, you should at least put 9bar of pressure. So very, very important thing is to have tyres with as large as possible maximum pressure rating!
As a heavier rider, I chose a CrMo steel frame. Maybe its a few pounds heavier than carbon, but I am unlikely to notice that small difference because of my size. I did have to get a wheel set replaced however, but it was still under warranty. Also, I only found Trek to list weight limits for its bikes. The rest of the information came from a very helpful bike shop owner.
I've been riding a steel road bike for 20 years and I've always weighed about 235lbs or so.
@5:01 his weight conversion is mixed up: 120 kg is 265 lbs., not 165lbs.
Great content! Spot on.
I’d say that a modest gravel bike is ideal for stronger riders and a e-bike for weaker riders or riders who face many steep hills. I’m 85kg, and I find that 28mm tires are right for me. Smooth 32mm tires would be perfect for heavier riders on the road. That additional compliance could help avoid pinch flats (go tubeless!) and would help reduce sharp forces on the wheels, fork, frame, and rider.
My wife has an e-bike. I live on a steep hill. I’d never ride her bike for fitness or fun, but I love using it on a hot day for a quick trip to the hardware store. I can put the goods in the panniers and return home without being drenched and out of breath.
One tip: go for mid drive, rather than hub drive. Mid drive will have an oversized bottom bracket, and that’s where the forces are applied. Hub drive puts the forces on the spindly, little dropouts. My local bike shop recently had a failed dropout on an ebike conversion with hub drive, and the rider was a small, thin woman. The bike frame was ruined. So yeah, mid-drive.
Love the channel, Leonard! Everybody can ride!
Perhaps being a conversion the dropouts weren't built to withstand the additional weight and stress.
My E bike is built like a tank and weighs as much. It's a hub drive but the next one will be crank drive because it's a much smoother and more natural ride
Good advice. The only thing I would question would be your choice of gears. A 34 front and 30 back is too high for most heavy riders in my opinion. I would always opt for a higher sprocket count on the back than the front. For example my lowest gear is 36 at the back and 30 on the front (0.83 ratio). This gets me up anything and is so much easier than a 30 back, 34 front (1.13 ratio). This is why I love my old triples with 50,39,30 on the front and 12-36 on the back. This gives a very wide range of gears and does not sacrifice either end of the scale. Trouble with doubles is 34 front is usually the lowest you can get in order to retain a reasonable size big partnering ring of 50 on the front. This limits the lower gear potential. Bike manufacturers are not helping heavier riders here.
I bought a Salsa Journeyman (adventure/gravel bike) last year. I love it! My goal was to get off the streets when possible. I changed out the stock tires (WTB Riddler) to Specialized Pathfinder Pro's (38 mm) and what a difference on pavement! The middle of the tire is smooth, much like a road tire, but it still maintains a tread on the sides for those days that I hit the gravel and days that the ride hits both surfaces. The best part is with the tire change the rolling resistance is nearly the same as my Trek road bike. The geometry is also a little more slack and as I've aged, it's a bit more comfortable. I can also run the tire pressure a little lower which absorbs some of the vibration and shock that gives me real issues in my hands. This bike also has mechanical disc brakes that are fantastic. I chose not to go with hydraulics as I was worried about having issues and potential brake failures if there was a problem with the brake line. Personally, I'd never go back to rim brakes.
if my only problem would be: "which bike to buy?" ;-) Hopefully one day...
Thanks Leonard,
I especially appreciate your comments on steering tubes, an area of the bike that has concerned me greatly since owning 2 Viscount Aerospace bikes back in the 1970's.
I never had a problem with either of those bikes, and only in later years found out how dangerous they supposedly were.
Your videos are always a source of pleasure, and a lesson in the English language.
I have got a Claude Butler Dalesman touring bike made from Reynolds steel tubing, 36 spoke wheels, 700x32 tyres and a 3rd low climbing cogg, ideal for carrying heavy weights including my carcass...😊
Agree with disc brakes, I would never go back to rims. Ran out of brakes on a mates bike in Dorset scary, same hill with discs no dramas even in the wet
As an MTBer, I would never ride rim brakes again, and would absolute go disc on a road bike. Even on my MTB I went up to 203mm front rotor and metallic pads to help improve the braking.
Thanks for all your videos. It shows that cycling and fitness is for anyone. I am heavier guy looking for my first bike since I was school boy.
Thanks for the video, I weigh about 26 stone, I have a specialized cross trail. I've had problems with broken spokes cracked rims and broken hubs.when I was riding I could feel the rear wheel flexing. So what I have done is bought a set of built up 700c mag alloy wheels of Ebay, fitted straight on and feels so good now when riding. Deffo worth a look
What did you mean with "heavier cyclists"? Did you mean gravitationally challenged? 😉
I sat once on an e-bike of friends for a couple of kilometers on the way to a lake for swimming and the way back. 😎 My 1st impression: the road and the bicycle paths in a hilly forest become flatter/more even/less hilly. The added force/power of the electric motor comes smoothly and increases gradually with the needed Watts when you accelerate after a red light or when you cycle uphill. You just feel the difference if you shut the motor off - ooooof. 😳
I think the Gravel bike tip is great: higher handlebar position & the possibility for wider tires make for a more foregoing ride & a more achievable position. Also don’t go for bike with a lot of integrated parts: when you loose weight & become more flexible you might want a longer stem, or one that doesn’t point upwards. Buy your bike smaller rather then bigger as that gives room to play with measurements & the diamond shape of the frame is stronger when it’s relative smaller.
I agree. I was thinking the same thing, before he mentioned it. plus, drop bars can be uncomfortable/awkward for heavier riders. I've seem a few manufacturers are offering gravel bikes with MTB style flat bars.
Which also brings me to say, a heavier rider shouldn't sneer at a XC style MTB. usually a beefier frame than a gravel bike, it's not as slack as a trail/endure/all mountain style, and that front suspension fork can sometimes make for a bit of a smoother ride for bad joints. the off road tires could always be replaced with something with a bit less rolling resistance, too.
The nice part about a gravel bike is, put road tires on it, and you basically have a sturdy, endurance road bike. I've seen some gravel bike riders who have a set of 32c tires for road and wider tires for gravel. Gravel bike is definitely much closer to a road bike, they are still reasonably fast, usually have road friendly gearing with good climbing gears, but not super low MTB gears which spin out real quick.
And it's almost comical how quickly a modern MTB runs out of gears, by about 19mph my trail bike is spun out since the fastest gear is only 30/11, but the climbing gear is 30/50, so can climb some seriously steep stuff.
Im 6'5 350. In decent shape and like to mountain bike. Being this large just by genetics causes problems cause noone makes stuff for you.
Thanks for video
im 6'6" 300 i feel you
I’m 17st, I got a Boardman adventure bike (ADV8.9) I love the sturdy frame and the larger tyres and yet it still rides like a road bike. Perfect for a larger rider.
Hey mate . Thanks for making this video as i am a heavier rider too at 130 kgs its good to know there is others out there and the information is very helpful .
New bike day for me at the beginning of June. It's been on order since mid April but, well, COVID-19 and that. Just been frantically checking the maximum weight, thought I'd covered everything before I ordered. Turns out at 98kgs and 5'8" I should be OK.
Thanks for another great video Leonard.
You don't use a household hammer to nail down a commerical roof. Its all about the tool ( bike) you use, with the right one and size can ride. I ride a Rocky Mountain Growler trail MTB. I started at 6'1'', and 145KG. Now down to 129KG after 10 months. Got a long way to go, but I got started somewhere so you can too :)
I'm a little over 6'5" and weigh around 98kg and have got into the habit of building my own wheels 32 spoke with alloy rims and high spoke tension. Definitely recommend hand built wheels for larger riders.
The bike builder I am looking at (Ribble CGR725) have nothing bigger than 24 spokes. My road bike has 36 which I don't want to reduce down from, for a Gravel bike. Plenty of research still to do.
@@Smelter57 The Ribble CGR725 comes with Mavic Aksium Elites they are pretty bomb proof even at a 24 count.
Mornin Leonard, someone else mentioned 650b's. I was listening to one of guys at WTB explain why they brought them back. The outer diam. is 700c though there is a large air cuchion. Also keep in mind the recomended tire pressures are for dudes that weigh no more than 165. So a little more pressure for larger riders is what he recomends. A few bike builders to take a look at are All City, and Surly. They are very well built, and steel is real. The road/gravel bike in Surly's line up have a 300lb weight limit. Thanks for addressing us of large stature.
Thanks for the video. Just wanted to add that I would pay attention to the wheels first. My previous bike was Giant Roam - everything was fine but the wheels were just a disaster for the rider like me (127kg at the moment). Even when rims were still fine, aluminum spokes broke about 3-5 times, and every time I had to take to the bike shop where they put a new steel spoke and true the wheel and yes, it costs money, time and the Joy from your riding. When I asked mechanics what to do they advised to buy a set of touring wheel with steel spokes OR to buy a new bike with good wheels our of the box because it will make more sense if I won't tu upgrade the bike somewhere in future. And at the end I sold my Roam and bought Fuji Jari 2.5 on Chromoly frame with GOOD wheels. And I started to love cycling again - roads, gravel, forest trails - all good, 2 years and everything is still fine. All other equipment is not so important, I mean derailleurs/shifters etc - if it works and tuned up your weight won't affect them. Even the frame is not so important if you are not doing some hardcore riding. Thanks again.
I highly recommend gravel bike with 32c smooth tires for heavy riders
I got a Breezer Radar bike steel frame and love it! Frame is super tough and has survived some bumpy mountain biking. Plus it has clearance for real 29in tires.
Thank you for this video. I’m 49 and very overweight (290 pounds) and have just received the “get in shape or else” encouragement from a medical specialist. I was a cyclist in my youth and loved it. Need to get back to it but was curious about this topic. Great information. I will start out with a mountain bike and go from there. Thanks again for the video as well as the inspiration! Keep up the great work!
Good luck Bob.
thank you for sharing great video👍🏻
Excellent well measured advice thanks Len (may I call you Len!?) Lots of love for gravel bikes in the comments, and I too recently bought one. Mostly because I fancy touring and the gravel bike is a little more relaxed than road and has rack/guard mounts. It does have stronger wheels (32 spoke) fair gearing (compact with 11-32) and hydraulic disks. All these things make it perfect for the more gravitationally challenged amongst us! P.S. I loved the 'very honest' clips in your video, like trying to clip in at 4:30!
Like your vids. I am 65, in great health, no comorbidities. I started seriuosly biking in 2020, in Michigan USA where winters are long. I am doing either a 12 or 18 mile ride everyday the weather permits. But my heart rate on treadmill at 3.6 miles per hour at maximum incline, doing 4 miles per day when weather keeps me from biking, is 125-128 beats per minute. I am going to measure my heartbeat when biking in future. Reason i bring this up is because I see in comments much higher heart rates & puzzled. But for my age a maximum 130 heart beats per minute is recommended. Just food for though for the older riders.
Nothing wrong with my weight, I’m just need to be a foot taller
Right there with you.
Add +1...
I am heavy and tall this makes buying a bike not easier.
Good one
Despite a little bit below the 120 mark with 115kg, chose a gravel bike for the peace of mind... With 2 disc wheelsets, one with 40c gravel tires and the other with 32c slicks, it feels like a green SUV, fueled by beer instead of diesel. All tubeless, all flawless so far... Could not be happier... Bike can do anything other than help me uphill 🤷🏼♂️.
I've broken carbon, steel, and aluminum frames. I have a whole shed full of broken rear wheels. Only 36 spokes for me now. I finally threw in the towel and bought a gravel bike. Should have done that years ago. It rides so much better on these horrible paved roads around here in Appalachia. Another great video Leonard. BTW--120K is 265 pounds, not 165 pounds. Ah, don't I wish :-)
What gravel bike brand and model did you buy?
What bike did you end up buying?
My new bike is a 1976 Raleigh Grand Prix. It is currently being remodeled in my shop. New bottom bracket and cranks. New, meaning 36 yo Shimano 105's from my parts box. Spring is coming near!
Sounds like a really cool bike. I love vintage bikes. My first one was a Raleigh too.
I’m 6.3 225 and have never had an issue on my super six evo carbon. With factory made clinchers. Guess I’ve been lucky. Great Vid Leonard!
I don't classify myself as a larger rider, but this is the second of your videos that I have watched and I really like them. Anything that encourages more people to ride and lays their fears to rest about cycling (whether it's related to body size or anything else) can only be a good thing.
Great coverage of this subject! I'm 6'5 ,113kg and I have carbon and aluminium bikes. 32spoke F/R on aluminium and 20F/24R on carbon. All rims are DTswiss and haven't popped a spoke yet. Also I ride 52/36 w/175mm crankarm, chainsets, I find them great for climbs. I don't have disc brakes on either bike, this is not much of a problem where I live in SoCal we get little to no rain here. But if get another new bike day, (I have 4 since '17) I'll get discs for sure. Thanks for the info Mr. Lee...ride on.
Outstanding video, thank you. It's answered so many of my questions and saved me yonks of internet research time.
I'm 118-120kg and looking to purchase a Boardman Team Carbon, I'm glad that I was able to stumble upon your channel it gave me the extra push to go with the purchase. CHEERS!
Leonard, as a heavier rider myself, I love your channel. I ride mountain bikes, but I still love your vids. I really think a network like GCN should bring you in as another perspective, and hopefully get more people on a bike, regardless of what kind it is!
Great video. I think I'm in this category. Was popping spokes and actually switched to full carbon wheels with advice from my local bike shop. They are very strong and the flat DT spokes seem to be holding up well. The wheels I bought were the Bontrager Aeolus Pro 5 TLR disc model. Bike is a Felt VR5. I'm getting back into riding more this year. It's been great.
Good to hear!
I have two bikes, one with a huge weight limit as its a tourer. the other is a steel frame, carbon fork gravel bike. The latter has a weight limit of 135 Kilos (I think!) and interestingly the manufacturer told me that the limiting factor is the weight limit of the wheels!
Big fan of your channel. I have just taken up cycling for weight-loss and the sheer enjoyment of freedom on the tarmac. Keep it up!
This is such a good video on explaining some things it took some learning curve to figure out! Being 198cm tall and 136kg makes it a bit difficult to find a bike for you, and it definitely makes you the odd man out riding. In my experience I've learned that a proper fit, through axles, and hydraulic disc brakes are the way to go, because if you try to stop 136kg going down hill at 65kph those rim brakes will not work.
I had managed to get myself down from 119kg to 105kg over the last year or so. During that time I've been riding an alloy mountain bike, an alloy gravel bike and latterly a carbon road bike. Unfortunately during covid 19 lockdown here in NZ I'd been working from home and found myself far too close to the fridge. Subsequently I'm now at 112kg again! So my carbon bike has an advisory of maximum 125kg including bike (which I guess weighs about 8-10kg perhaps?). So once I've got shoes, attire and a riding backpack on, I would be just over the maximum load for the bike. As a result I've been riding my gravel bike, which I figure is heavier with more rolling resistance and thus helping me to lose weight faster anyway! My goal is to get back onto my carbon bike. I typically refer my carbon bike to that of a Porsche relative to my Golf GTi gravel bike. Both quite fast, but one is much faster!! Love your videos Leonard. Cheers!
I sold my Domane 5.2 some years back and bought a Kona Sutra touring bike. I love it. It's not fast, but it is rather agile and extremely comfortable.
That being said I am beginning to miss the road bike. Maybe a new one in the wind.
Cheers mate, good video 👍
Buy used and save hundreds.
Another category for heavier riders to look into are the all but extinct traditional road touring bikes.
Long Haul Trucker is very much alive.
Surly has some really cool bikes for that.
Masi giramondo works for me, im 300 lbs.
I second the "touring" category
Gravel bikes kinda fall into that category these days, they tend to have lots of mounts for racks/panniers on them.
In truth, the information is interesting and important. In my case I reached 100 kg and I had not paid attention to the number of spokes of the rear wheel. It is certainly something to consider for added security
I weigh about 330 lbs. I am 6 foot tall. Im a big guy and noticed the spokes breaking on almost every ride. I have a Felt verza path 10. I recently purchased a 32 spoke heavy rim and it works great! 500 miles on the new rim and no bad spokes as of yet. I was at 370 lbs. So slowly but surely the weight is coming off.
Used to pop spokes - realised it was too much pressure running heavy panniers when I was also heavier - far too much torque. Even 32 spoked wheels! Lost weight, back to a back pack and sending 'heavier stuff' to work solved that! (My LBS said I was too rough and hard on the bike!)
Im 6'1 128kgs rider. Switched to gravel steel bike from the giant ar aloy. No regrets. Glad I made the switch. I now enjoy my ride better than my former giant bike which has dfuse seatpost which sometimes create creaking sound.
As an 18 stone rider, I have never broken a spoke....a rim failed but not the spokes!!! Turned out it was a faulty rim fortunately. I have recently purchased a E road bike (Specialized Creo) to go along side my Roubaix and Tarmac. Does make climbing a breeze, but the bike is not as quick on the flat due to the added weight. I use all my bikes and just falls to the type of ride I am doing. Solo hilly rides and I tend to use the Ebike, group rides will go with a normal bike. Horses for course as they say. I would encourage people to try an Ebike as they are a hoot to ride, especially uphill.
Great video. Just getting back into road riding. Things have changed a lot. Thanks for the tips.
I weighed around 265 when i bought my first Specialized Roubaix. Never had a problem. They're pretty sturdy if you dont abuse them.
In 305lb and ride a roubaix. Never had a problem either. Until I broke my arm. My error, not bike
I was just over 18 stone and 6ft. Bought a £230 bike from Decathlon and had it years, never had any problems. Even pull a trailer when I go touring.
I can definitely recommend the GIANT TOUGHROAD SLR 1 (2020). It's a bit overkill on the cargo racks, I took them off and the only real downside was that the hand grips needed replacing (as they were not comfortable).
Thanks for your advice and thoughts.
A steel touring bike is a great alternative for the heavier rider, maybe not as quick as a carbon bike however the steel frame is more than capable to carry the extra weight and the lower gears will help going up the hills. Unfortunately they seem to have lost favour with the new generation of cyclists, the classic Claud Butler Dalesman and the Dawes Galaxy with steel Reynolds tubing have been discontinued. Gravel bikes appear to be the new trend at the moment.
I myself ride a Giant steel bike from the 80,90 ...perfect and very comfortabel! 😊
i am really grateful that i found your channel... good work sir
i am 275 lbs on a sl7 tarmac expert, roval c38 wheels with 30mm vittoria pro tires with 1000+ miles on it so far so good 👍
Great video’s sir, well done 👍, I purchased a Pinnacle Arkose D2, gravel/adventure bike, seriously never looked back. Changed the tyres to marathons 700x32, a bit more all round tyre. If you are not a name snob, love gravel tracks it’s perfect 👌🏻
Steel is real for us bigger riders - not overweight riders but big riders - my bike is a Kona Sutra which is bullet proof - I weigh 105 kg’s !
Thank you for sharing your perspectives. Appreciated!!
Glad you like it.
Halfords crossfire e-bike been a nightmare. Pinging spokes even after a swap of a new wheel and new spokes, Went to a independent dealer (voided warranty as problems from new) in the end who made a new rim and spokes never had a problem and now is a joy to ride. Arthritis of the knee and weigh 355lbs
100kg rider here. I could have gotten a carbon framed Cannondale Synapse but I opted for the alu model, disc brake. Built me 2 32-spoke wheels for peace of mind.and use 28mm tyres. 4 years, still true. I keep the 28-spoke cheap wheels as backup. I could save 5-7 lbs with a higher spec'd carbon model but... I'd rather try to loose 5-7lbs of pizza muscle... good video
A heavier bike will certainly give you a better work out than a lighter one.
love your videos ! a real inspiration . got to ride more! plus 0:40.. physics, got to give you an extra point for that.
Great video Leonard, very informative, If I were heavier I would steer away from carbon framed bikes until my weight dropped, I have 105 brakes which are very good but would agree disc would be better especially in the wet. Gravel bike is a win win, stronger frame, wider tyres, plus a bit of off-road, plus most come with disc brakes. Hope you feeling better now your getting out more, take care mate, Alan.
yeah after a cycling injury and regaining 40kg over 2 years im keeping my Bianchi infinito cv garaged and using my touring bike
I reckon gravel is the best bet for heavy cyclists and also for all rounder road bikes. 46/30 is good for any types of terrain yeh? I’ve got 52/36 but im now considering gravel bike and their 46/30 gearing plus bigger tyre equals more comfort all day of riding 🙂
As a morbidly obese and junior senior citizen rider these would be my tips:
- Gravel bike is the way to go- frames are usually rated at 275 lbs to 325 lbs.
- Get good wheels. Through axel is preferable especially if you're getting disk brakes. If you're going for disk brakes get hydraulic.
- 28 mm tires should be the smallest. I ride on both 25 mm and 28 mm and no difference in speed or slowness. 32 mm slicks are good too, especially for puncture resistance and comfort.
- Make sure when you buy your bike that the seat post supports your weight.
- Steel bikes are good but I don't see much advantage since most quality aluminum alloy frames have lifetime warranty on them.
Not sure, but carbon forks seem pretty standard. Haven't heard about durability but I ride with one and I can see the benefit in terms of stiffness and reduced flex.
Thanks for the tip on compact cassette and gears, too
That weight limit thing made me pretty happy. I have been told 300 forever.
I build wheels myself for heavier people and i am pretty large myself. I like to use 32 spokes minimum for heavy riders to make sure wheels wil last over the years, DT350 hubs, DT Competition spokes and brass nipples, Ryde rims and if that’s not enough, Hope hubs with 36 holes and DT Alpine 3 spokes.
Thanks, I have a heavy friend myself and he needed help.
I'm 5'11" and on May 20, 2020 weighed 264.5 lbs.. I was very into MTB in the 90's early 2000's. As of today July 3, 2020 I'm down to 238 lbs. I started by walking(1.4-1.6 miles) on my lunch break and walking 45-60 minutes(2.6-3.2 miles) in the evening. I also started eating differently and try staying under 2200 calories a day. During the work week I'll often be under 2000 calories. I weigh all my portions and keep track of my caloric intake on my phone app.
I recently decided to purchase a bike and decided to go with a gravel bike and looked at the used bike market. I ended up picking up a used Lynskey titanium gravel bike($1350) for the durability of the ti frame. I personally think steel(cheaper) or titanium ($$) are the best options for us heavier riders. I also agree with your recommendations about good wheels and avoiding carbon steerer tubes. I recommend doing your research and not rush purchasing to get the most bang for your buck.
Sounds like a great bike.
@@jollygoodvelo Thanks for the reply. Yes I'm enjoying it and am seeking out good riding locations both road and rail trails(old railroad lines converted to trails). I also should've added that I also do mix in Nordictrack ski machine sessions especially when it is hot/humid outside. I actually just finished a 40 minute session(700 calories).
Also the best thing is I am 55 and on blood pressure medication and because of my much lower pressure my Doctor just took me off of Amlodipine and my goal is to hopefully one day be off of the other medication as well. Be well and stay safe on your rides.
I took up cycling again 15 years ago after spending a week in hospital with massive blood pressure. Initially, I continually broke bikes. The reason for this was budget bikes that were wrong for my type of riding. A cheap drop handlebar bike on rolled mud/shale & towpaths was never right for someone 121kg / 270 lbs doing 40 miles a week. I swapped to a slightly better straight handlebar hybrid. Then I found that I now only broke spokes and cracked wheels and hubs which was progress but not the answer. A load of research took me to European style trekking bikes in the £1-2k price range. They are a cross between a tourer and a hard tail mountain bike. Importantly they use strong frames, robust double butted wheels, disc brakes, and front suspension. They often have a rear rack but you can remove that. Finally, I have an unbreakable bike which when combined with 700c schwalbe plus puncture resistant tyres means that I just put my bike in the shed after a ride and dont have to fix it every week unlike the old days. If you are heavy and ride towpaths, fire roads and gentle trails that dont justify a mountain bike then consider a trekking bike. Cube do multiple models and I have been delighted with them and I just bought my third. Alternativey buy a decent aluminium full suspension mountain bike from one of the big manufacturers in a similar price range. I have one as well as my trekking bike and have so far never broken it despite having ridden it 2000 miles.
thanks mate i’m 156 kilos and 6’4 this was very insightful🧐
Another brilliant video for a newbie oldie, who was built for comfort rather than speed 😊. For “speed” I have motorcycles. Only found your site yesterday mate, but finding it massively helpful. Loved the “beer and pizza muscle” reference 🤣
I broke spokes a lot even when I was younger and lighter. 88 kg now and run campag neutrons which are the best wheels I have every had