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1) Film yourself climbing and look over your technique 2) Clean chalk off bottoms of shoes 3) Don’t regrip/overgrip 4) Climbing fast saves energy 5) Climb on a straight arm 6) Wave your arms to dry off your hands 7) Consider liquid chalk 8) Take care of your skin 9) There’s a lot of ways to train, but climbing a lot and trying hard is key 10) Use a hangboard 11) Try different techniques out and get familiar with them 12) Giving 100% one time is better than 50% multiple times 13) Don’t be afraid of failure or caring how you look 14)Go to shoe demos and try different kinds of shoes to find a good one for you 15) Wash chalk off immediately after climbing, hands don’t heal with chalk on them 16) Use a spray wall to learn how route setters think and how the body movements 17) Train the core after your climbing session 18) Warm up before you climb, about 20-30 minutes to avoid injury. 19) Diet is important, but don’t take short cuts by hurting your body to lose weight. 20) Don’t walk away from high grades, they are just made up numbers. Try anything!
I think the most amazing thing about climbing is the community. I promise you, people will not judge you for your failures. if you find that someone is watching they are either wanting to give advice or wanting to learn from you. many times you will find friends in the gym. climbing with people is always better so don't be scared if someone is watching you
I don't know if everybody wan't to hear shouts of encouragement but I am strengthened by them and I like to encourage as much as I can. At a recent climbing championship in New South Wales, I thought the audience were a bit too quiet. Are climbing audiences normally subdued?
I always cheer on new climbers when they come in the gym 99% of them love it and some people will actually join you or vice versa. At my gym it's more of a climbing family than a community.
When I notice someone getting insecure by my staring (Mostly beginners) I always start to chat to tell them I enjoy watching people climb at least as much as climbing myself. If they want tips I'm glad to give them. If they really feel uncomfortable I will mind my own business. And lastly, yes a lot of people look but almost noone judges.
@@cambria9893 Yeh I agree so much with the last part. Everyone is watching, but almost no one is judging. Anyone who climb V8-V9 got through the small grades as well. it's a process and almost everyone understands it and wants to help you through it. It's a very nice community :)
@@bazwax77 y i was thinking about something like that aswell. But it's just in the thumbnail. So im kind of confused, why he doesn't touch that topic there.
Thanks for bringing up eating disorders, Magnus. Climberexia is a real thing, and it's more common than people think among young climbers. I've even had fellow recreational climbers (who are already strong and fit) obsess over dropping a few pounds to send a project. I really appreciate you touching on this, especially with your following of newer and younger climbers. I hope you'll talk about it more in the future.
I think the issue also comes from climbers not treating climbing as a "sport". As any other sport you should probably hit the gym or any other kind of physical preparation to help you perform even better. If you feel good at a certain weight and can't send a project, instead of starving yourself to death just get stronger.
@@jporfirio_ actually, this unhealthy relationship with weight is a thing in many sports. Take martial arts, for instance. Fighters weigh in at several kg below their waking around weight. That being said, becoming a kg lighter is much easier than becoming a kg stronger and climbing at a lower weight in general reduces the wear on your tendons, unless you are ofcourse significantly mallnourished.
@@jporfirio_ what are you even talking about, professional athletes are going through such terrible body transformations only to get a small edge in competition that dropping a few kilos would be your least problem.
Not sure what comes first, but it probably triggers and increases each other, people with eating disorders and or unhealthy relationships with their bodies doing a lot of sport to get even thinner. I met a girl in my age (around 23) with a serious eating disorder, only weighing around 37kg but she’s visiting the gym multiple times a week, training hardcore on finger strength, destroying her body :(
Mad respect for talking so openly and respectfully about ED and weight in climbing. So refreshing to hear someone at your level speaking about these things.
Not respecting a grade is probably the best advice I have ever received. I watched this video, then the next day I went climbing and started 2 v6's. I couldn't complete them but my next session I did them both second try. I would have never even looked at them had I not watched this video.
This is why I love climbing all the climbs after comps. They are all the same colour and I don’t have a clue what the grade is and I attempt them anyway and it 100% helps me improve
TBH there are some V5s at my gym that I struggle to complete, and there's the odd V7 that I'm actually able to send. I will give pretty much anything a go, and yes I definitely fall more often on the harder grades, but climbing difficult climbs is one of the best ways to improve!
Definitely agree on this one. I used to avoid anything above v4 whilst I tried my first 5's but after getting frustrated I branched out and realised I could send some v6 routes and even a few of the challenge routes that are supposed to be the hardest in my local gym. Finally got them v5s but not before trying everything else in the gym no matter what grade.
As soon as you said “dieting,” I was prepared to roll my eyes over fad dieting tips to lose weight and gain muscle at the same time (extremely hard even with a dietitian helping), so I was very happily surprised to listen to your talk on eating disorders in the gym. There’s such a focus on “how well I can perform if I was lighter” than “how well I can perform if I fuel my body properly.” As a soon-to-be dietitian, thank you for discouraging eating disorders and encouraging people to speak up and help others with suspected eating disorders.
This might not hold for high-level climbers, but I absolutely got better when I started getting enough fuel in my body. Just letting myself gain a few kg allowed my body to build muscle more easily and keep going for longer. Even climbers who aren't underweight by BMI can benefit from a bit more food.
Well, how hard losing weight and gaining muscle at the same time depends on your starting weight. If you're overweight then it's actually very easy (did it myself) but obviously if you're already underweight and you try to lose even more while trying to build muscle that's going to be borderline impossible.
Uuuuh Aaaannntoooooon 🎉 Weeee neeeed a collab with you and Magnus!!! 🙏 Or maybe 2...3...27...🤔... However, would be awesome... And whoooouuu 🤯 what about AMJ.. Anton&Magnus&Jonathan?! That would be crazy 👌
@@AntonFomenko There would be a point at which you would say, "do you think this is useful?", John would be all "yes, I can see this [insert ridiculous activity here] is an applicable skill" and Magnus would just look at him like he was crazy... and you'd all do it anyway :)
I LOVED hearing you talk about embracing failure. My favorite quote I've heard on this, is "failure is feedback." Every time you fail you're gaining valuable information that will help you improve. As cool as it is to see you flash things, hearing you talk about failure and seeing you include failed attempts in so many videos is really encouraging and motivating!
Hi, Im relatively new to climbing. My sister and I (who is also climbing with me) have both had eating disorders in the past. I'm so grateful for your sensitivity around weight loss and the serious nature of eating disorders. I greatly appreciate your honesty and will continue to follow and learn from your channel. Thankyou!
Honestly shoutout to Magnus for being as thoughtful and open as he was about the dieting segment, it takes a lot of courage to speak about eating disorders or the things athletes will do to themselves in the name of performance, and I have a lot of respect for the urgency and disclaimers he put on that segment. Great video!
Thank you for talking about eating! Hearing you talk about your eating disorder struggles helped me in ways I can’t express! I’m 6’3” and try to keep my weight at 175 for climbing. Naturally I would be 210. I cried I admit it!
From my experience, the body always optimizes for what you are doing. If you climb for long enough, your weight will naturally drop a bit and stay there.
I'm 6'4 and 176. Before I started climbing, I weighed in at 236, which put me quite far up the overweight ladder. I find that it is quite easy to tune my weight without feeling starved or miserable. Ofcourse, there is the temptation to go lower, but my wife keeps me in check.
I am 6'3" and 330lbs. I climb. Weight is just a number and not something you should force to match some arbitrary line. Your body will do what your body will do.
I think the spray wall is a better training tool than many climbers realize. Maybe make a video on spray walls where you go through the process of setting a climb and projecting it?
Not sure a video is needed for this. It goes with his statement about no one training program even for experts. There is no wrong way to train on a spray wall. You can do power by creating a ‘problem’, stamina by staying on as long as possible. The advantage to spray wall is this: because there are so many holds when a move is too hard you can make micro adjustments (use a slightly better/higher foot, or use a slightly larger hold, etc…) that just aren’t possible on pre set problems. It really is the best way to go. I like to train on spray wall 2-3x a week and then go to gym only 1-2 to try out what spray wall has done for me on the pre set problems.
I think the issue with spray walls is that they tend to be geared towards more advanced climbers, at my gym I can't get to the top of it, even using every single hold
I really like the last tip about not respecting grades. I've avoided plenty of boulders or lead routes because I thought they would be above my capabilities, only to get further than I thought I could or even onsighting when I actually gave them a try. I still get shut down more than I send, but even that can be fun when you're with fun people.
So true, I always get a little intimidated by grades, except when it's totally my style. I'd say trying things out and training on things that are very far from your preference and style is very important too.
The only thing I don't like about grades above my level is that my arms tier out too quickly. Perhaps this gets back to speed. One quick try would not waste too much strength?
@@nicholaslittle2312 one quick try is certainly worth it. Maybe even 5 quick tries haha. I wouldn't think of it as a waste of time though as long as you tried really hard.
1. 0:43 Record your climbs 2. 1:18 Clean your shoes from chalk 3. 1:52 Don't overgrip or regrip 4. 2:10 Climb faster 5. 3:24 Climb with straight arms 6. 4:05 Waive hands to dry them 7. 4:33 Use liquid chalk (if you like it) 8. 4:53 Take care of your skin 9. 6:35 You don't need a trainig program 10. 6:57 Get a hangboard 11. 7:50 Use various techniques 12. 8:33 Better try once, but give it 100% 13. 8:50 Don't be afraid of failing 14. 9:32 Find shoes that fit you well 15. 10:16 Wash the chalk off your hands immediately after climbing 16. 10:38 Utilize spray wall 17. 11:43 Train core muscles more 18. 12:16 Warmup properly before climbing 19. 13:17 Maintain healthy diet 20. 15:19 Do not respect higher grades
Magnus. I have just started rock climbing as a 32 year old after years of watching Climbing documentaries, and CZcams videos. I really appreciate the content you post and I thoroughly enjoy the expertise you have to share with everyone. This video really highlights your humility and dedication too spreading knowledge to others. Thank you and keep on keeping’ on!
Also dont Overtrain. Especially in the beginning. I have been there. The hype is sooo big and you wanna train every day as Hard as you can. Its just a question of time when you injure your self. For me it Was the wrist from too much campus boarding and i clouldnt climb for 9 Months.
Yup. So true. For me I was fine until lockdown, then I took it way too hard too fast and got several little overuse injuries that have taken a long time to heal properly. Also slopers mess up my wrists for some reason, so I gotta take it easy on those. I've picked up a few accute injuries over the last year from making bad decisions and falling in awkward ways on hard ground. So yeah, listen to your body and gut, don't try something that feels wrong/stupid, and resist the desire to train when you shouldn't.
Overtraining and in general not listening to your body. If something hurts, maybe just stop it. And if it's not getting better after a while (1 week), see an orthopedist. I injured my shoulder when i fell from 3m straight on my elbow, however it just hurt a bit but kept functioning, so i just ignored it for some months. Now, almost 3 years, 1 surgery and a lot of reha training later i still have issues...
Dislocated shoulder and tennis elbow for me. better climber now because I pace myself better and know when to rest. Sessions are much more fulfilling now.
I think that’s was a really good video especially the eating part and the disorders that go with it. I’m older (40+) climbed for 15+ years now can’t touch the things I used to as I’m so much heavier. But even though I am heavy I still love the sport and that’s what it’s about. I would like to loose a good few kg but it’s not the be all and end all. Climbing helps me have a great life and time.
same here. Climbing is a great sport, especially lead, which I personally think you can do up to a very high age. I also think it's pretty healthy in all regards, physically as well as mentally.
I'm a heavier climber I'm still new to the sport been doing it 5 months 1 or 2 times a week and climbing 5+ to 6a currently. When I say heavier I'm on about more of the 100+kg heavy
It’s great. I’m about 88kg now not my old 75kg I can still flash a good amount. If your new watch some of the tips and skills on CZcams with other climbers and just remember every one is different there is no single way for everyone to complete the same climb. And enjoy it. It is good physically and mentally. If you want some suggestions on who to watch message on here. So climb now work later 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
@@stanislasgueniffey1769 Obviously Magnus on this channel , but epic Tv climbing daily, lattice training, wide boyz and rock entry are just a few to go at.
Thank you for not inly highlighting eating disorders, but also being honest enough to recognise your areas of expertise, and advising to get professional advice! That and to look out for those around you; so essential!
The part about eating disorders in the climbing community was such an important message. Thank you for sharing your personal story! Really strong move!!!
I don’t know, how many climbers are really so focused on climbing and their climbing performance that they end up losing too much weight? Lots of people can’t even lose weight if their health depends on it.
@@Mike-oz4cv If you are interested in this topic I do recommend watching the documentary „Light“. It’s about eating disorders in the magical world of climbing. czcams.com/video/thtDQJGrO5s/video.html
Tip 20 is something I’ve had massive success with. When I first started climbing I made pretty rapid progress to V3 and then plateaued hard. I felt strong and couldn’t really figure out what was wrong. There was this random super overhung V7 that looked really fun and had some of my favorite holds on it so I just went for it. I was able to do the easy part, about 10 moves up to the crux and it felt amazing. I knew I had 0 chance of finishing the problem, but still to this day I have that problem memorized and it was my favorite problem I’ve tried and it gave me the confidence to seriously attempt V4s and 5s to break my plateau
"Failing is definitely part of any climber's process" - thanks for this comment. This has so much wisdom in it. I don't even know where to start. :) Very very often the discussion is about results, 'how to top this track, how to achieve some skill/level/recognition'. But very little discussion is focusing on the _process_. It's a shame, as those goals everytime requires a process, and for that process, what you just said "Failing is definitely part of any climber's process", it describes very well what to expect of the process part of any hobby or work. :)
definately agree with you. i allways tell people what are affraid to fail "if you dont fail, there is nothing to improve. so be thankfull for everything you can fail at as it is an oportunity for you to learn something." i came from E-Sports and i remember times where i just won a lot of matches in a row and it got bored so fast.. i also had nothing to work on so i kept my habits and lost focus. all the wins in the training lead into failing when i needed it as i could not adept quick enough. so these routs are called "problems" for a reason. you have to struggle with them and be happy when you grew enough to master them. thats what we all had to go trough in everything we are good in. noone who is a master in his hobby will tell you that there were no fails. fails are what lead you into mastery.
Yea, there's a quote I like - I don't remember who it's from, but it goes 'the master has failed more times than the beginner has even tried' And I think especially in sports like climbing and gymnastics it's really really easy to see just how true that is. But in reality it's true for, like, everything it's possible to be a master at, from maths to music to art and sport.
Well done for speaking about eating disorders. I know Magnus isn't usually one to be too personal, but it does change things to have a pro talk about how dangerous it can be.
I'm new to the sport and I keep trying to push myself on 6a climbs been doing climbing 5 months and I have so far done 10 6a routes st my gym which I'm stoked about as took me a lot of attempts to do
Thanks so much for addressing eating disorders in tip 19 cause I know a lot of my climbing friends who compete and me have struggled with this. I always felt like I was in an endless cycle of trying to lose weight and it got to a point where it was just unhealthy so I’m glad you’re discussing that 🙏🙏
I had no idea that it's good to wash chalk off as soon as possible for skin recovery, especially when climbing outside I often have chalky hands for most of the day because there isn't always a convenient way to wash them off. Guess I'll use a water bottle to clean them off ASAP from now on after climbing. Very useful tips!
I'd love to see a really in depth tutorial on footwork. You always hear "silent feet" and all of that, but i wanna know how i can stand on a coin nailed to a wall. Like what part of my shoe should i stand on for different scenario's and should i be flexing my toes inside my shoe
Thank you for tip #16! I broke through my first plateau by having two spray wall sessions weekly with experienced climbers and many people underestimate it's effectiveness. It starts off slow at the beginning cos setting is not something most of us usually even consider. But once you get the hang of it it's super useful
Just started climbing about 3 weeks ago. Your videos gave me the subconscious knowledge to be able to pick up the terminology and the body movements to feel comfortable in the gym with only watching a couple of videos. Thanks for making the videos, and giving your perspective Magnus, it gave me the confidence to pick up a new hobby and it has been a very positive influence on my life :D
as an extremely casual indoor climber i was expecting these tips to be beyond me but they all are very useful! i will be keeping them in mind. i really appreciate tip 19, as someone who used to be underweight, i want to keep my focus on building health and strength as opposed to unhealthy ideals of what my body "should" be.
In addition to warm-ups before climbing, I would say that cool-downs at the end of a session should be included. Especially as you get older. Thanks for making this video!
Thank you so much for talking about eating disorders in sports, especially among men. Eating disorders in general are stigmatized, but especially among men they aren’t discussed nearly enough!
The grades are somewhat relative too. I boulder in a gym where the difficulty is sometimes higher than the actual grade. Compared to another gym I visited a few times some routes felt way easier than I was used to for the grade they put it up for. Also reaaaaally depends on style. A 6c+ slab problem is so different from a 6c+ overhang problem. Or shouldery big moves VS crimpy precise moves.
I climbed on a concrete climbing tower that mimics real rock and it's so much different than climbing in a gym with colored holds. The tower is way more complex to climb than in the gym, the holds are small and you have to figure out yourself where you put your hands and feet (thy gym usually only gives you a few options). But it is also less exhausting, since most of the routes are vertical or slanted and it has only a few overhanging routes (and the overhanging parts are short). In the gym, there are many (long) overhanging routes, but the holds are usually much larger and easier to find. I find the tower harder than the gym, unless the grading is off. In the gym, I climbed two (okay, for one I don't know if I did it correctly, white holds with rubber on them and black holds with chalk on them are hard to tell apart) 5a routes on the first try, but on that tower, I'd have a hard time finding any 5a I can beat. But seriously, that tower is awesome. You can use techniques that you can't use in the gym, such as using edges (both outward and inward), cracks and chimneys. It feels so much more like rock (okay, I'm a beginner and haven't really climbed real rock). However, the downside of concrete is that it's (near) impossible to build new routes.
@@angrybirder9983 Not every beginner start in climbing gymn. I have never been in a climbing gymn. I started on rocks and never tried in a gymn. Back i the 80ies, most climbers (even the best professional climbers) climbed only outside on natural rocks.
@@deintraining2392 that does not matter :-) I am heavier than the average climber/ boulderer (6 feet and 198 pound female), and can still do it. Just give it a try!
I just did my first bouldering session today and it was a blast! I've been looking for a fun way to get in shape and get down to a healthy weight, and I think climbing is going to do the trick. So glad CZcams recommended your channel to me!
Hi Magnus, nice video! I'm a beginner and one tip I think you should cover is rings and the dangers of climbing with a metal ring on your finger. I had a minor injury caused by a ring while climbing once but I just learned about degloving today and was completely horrified.
The last tip really hit home, I need to start looking at and trying the grades that I think are too hard for me. I think that if I find a hard boulder that is too hard for me, but really fun, that I'll try really hard and perhaps get better faster than only doing boulders I am able to flash
One thing that we see with top climbers is that they go back to the same hard climbs again and a again and again even if they are getting only one extra move each visit. This is how they reach a new personal best!
I think it would be super useful to explore the "diet" subject. I think one of the bad things about the diet word is people use or see it as a word that means using food to lose weight. Diet should mean what you eat and a diet can do different things. Just like you mentioned you are trying to gain weight so you are changing your diet. As you said you struggled with this and many people have too. It would be cool of you to use your platform to visit and talk with a dietician and/or a nutritionist. It would be a nice educational experience for everyone from a climbers perspective
When I first started climbing I was always around climbers who were pretty good and a lot of them told me a myth that chalking the tips of your climbing shoes help with grip just like your hands. For some reason I didn’t think too much about it and kept doing it every single time I would climb, most of the time slipping even when in sturdy positions. Recently I saw another video where Magnus talked about that myth not being true and I was like boom lightbulb went off lol. Thank you yet again Magnus haha💪🏽
I felt 19. Thanks for the honesty. Been there twice with cycling. Started climbing ten months ago and found I have to talk myself out of not eating sometimes.
Its crazy how ive been watching your videos since back in the day when you were a primarily vlogging channel, but i never knew you struggled with weight. Im so glad your a big strong guy now and are okay with that. I love watching your videos, seeing how much effort you put into everything you do, and seeing you interact with other youtubers. Youre always looking to challenge yourself in a new way. Thats bery venificial. (Reference to this video at the end)
@@josephclimbs9495 I work at the largest climbing gym in Canada and a lot of people ask for this type of advice. Really it comes down to the principles Magnus shared. I think a lot of people also don't understand that it takes YEARS to get better at climbing at a certain point, but if you're never changing the way you climb how will you ever get better?
Thank you so much for tip #19, it is an extremely important message. I have had many family and friends fall victim to eating disorders via high level athletics (gymnastics, ballet) and it's tragic. So glad you were able to beat your disorder (or at least that's how it seems) and thanks for sharing.
i like it very much that you emphasize the selfcare during climbing and still encourage us viewers to go beyond our mental boundaries :) ballance is the key!
Another awesome video Magnus. Been climbing for 2/3 months now and your videos are helping me understand myself as a climber as well as climbing itself. Much love, keep doing you!
I would also like to thank you for talking about eating disorders. I used to be a professional ballet dancer and struggled with eating disorders for years. I recently got into climbing and worry about the struggle continuing here for me.
Thanks for speaking about eating disorders in the climbing community. It’s something I really struggle with and it’s good to see people speaking out against disordered eating more lately
Thanks for the tips! My favorite is #20 because I love trying things I have no chance of doing. Bonus is that sometimes I do them :D Also, thank you for being open in #19 about your personal experience with eating disorders. I've been watching this channel for a long time and always kinda wondered how you avoided such things. I'm glad you're healthy now. If people haven't watched it yet, the documentary Light covers this topic pretty well too and is on youtube free.
Magnus, I am so so glad to hear what you had to say for tip 19. You are correct, dieting for weight loss is never a path to better climbing, because you are trying to force your body to change rather than letting your body regulate itself in response to what it is doing. Our bodies are incredible machines and we shouldn't think we know better what the scale should say. Climbing and exercise will change your body, and sometimes in unexpected ways, don't assume you know what is going to work best. Let the process happen naturally in response to the work you are doing.
Fantastic tips!! Any further tips on strengthening your legs for heel hooks, toe hooks and bicycle's and maybe vertical versus over hanging techniques would be cool. Thank you so much for your efforts, videos and passion for climbing in all its forms :)
I LOVE the editing in this one, especially the intro and the "progress bar" on the tips. Great video! I'd love to see a video on dealing with injuries, but I know you never got injured for climbing so I'll probably never see that haha.
I enjoy the ADHD meter at the top left lol. Tip #9 is great. Training programs are a good way to overtrain, especially following a day by day routine and trying to push through injuries to meet the requirements. Just keep adding to your toolbelt of exercises and check in with your body to see whether you can step on the gas or you need to pull back a bit.
Amazing! Just started climbing a few weeks ago and while I was doing some of these things naturally (washing chalk off right away- thanks OCD) there were some things I didn't consider like going hard the first time even if it's not "technically" correct. I'm definitely guilty of activating my biceps and not trusting my arms to hold me up, but I think as I keep going that will get better. Thank you for the practical tips! Would love to see more content about different techniques. You whizzed through the names and I'm like "oh, those sound interesting" 😊
Magnus, I want to applaud you for this video! It's not only a bunch of actually really helpful tips for climbers, it is also a very honest and personal video - at least that's what I feel like. Very different from the more entertainment like videos in the recent past (not that they are bad; just different) - much appreciated :)
So much respect to you for being able to say you don't feel like you don't have enough knowledge about a subject to express your opinion on it. The internet and the whole world would be a better place if more people had the integrity, self-awareness and respect you present!
I'm getting such different messages here, haha, and I love it. Your video: great advice that covers the major issues and pitfalls of climbers with thoughtful solutions. The fanbase: take off your shirt, no such thing as too much chalk, and just be Magnus. But seriously, I'm saving this video and will be referring to it over the years. Thank you ^_^
I am in awe. You managed to bring your points across so that it was easy to follow and also managed to Do so on an incredibly professional Level. Big Fan of your Videos and personality here. Keep em coming
I really appreciate tip nr. 20. I naturally go towards boulders that I think are my level. I don’t even look or touch any of the boulders above this grade. Feels like a wasted opportunity now to sometimes push myself a bit more and try out some different holds.
I apprecate you sharing these tips and talking about eating disorder issues. You were open and I hope this inspires others who are struggling to talk through what they are going through.
Tip 8! I've been wondering about climbing skin care for a long time and got no idea what to do. Would be really cool to see a more in depth dive into the topic :)
A note on your last tip: This is HUGE! I'm a pretty new climber, my brother has been climbing for a year or two pretty consistently. I have a taller and more stretched out physique than he does, which allows me to climb certain problems he can't figure out, but also makes certain ones very challenging for me where he can flash them. Climbers are like fingerprints, all unique!
I’m early. Does Magnus respond? Let’s see 😯 Also, really needing an in depth video on drop knees and opposite hand opposite foot technique. I’m currently climbing v4s and some soft v5s and I’ve noticed my technique is really bad
I want to say thanks for getting me back into climbing, I used to do it a lot but I just got bored and stopped climbing. After seeing your videos I got inspired to start climbing again. Because of that I have been getting a lot stronger and into shape. Thanks!
Could you do a video on climbing terms and phrases? I find myself not understanding or recognizing a bunch of the terms in your videos and I think a visual dictionary video would be amazing for new climbers and probably become a super popular video. I know I searched for it when I first started but didn't find anything.
my mum came in and asked "why are you watching that shirtless man all the time", at this point I don't even notice anymore lol
I know hahah I watch mainly gymnastics and climbing and these are two communities where the pros really don't like to have a top on hahah
My boyfriend asks the same every time... even worse :D yeh, one of the few female viewers here :D
Same my brother came in and said "Is this really what you do watch buff shirtless dudes!?!"
So funny !
@@millacabral9475 as a climber, I can agree that tops are pretty useless
Tip 21: Cultivate a complete and total disregard for gravity
just learn how to fall upwards.
@@beardedboulderer2609 Australian people are very good climbers it seems.
Gravity sucks
Gravity is aid
Gravity is merely hypothetical
1) Film yourself climbing and look over your technique
2) Clean chalk off bottoms of shoes
3) Don’t regrip/overgrip
4) Climbing fast saves energy
5) Climb on a straight arm
6) Wave your arms to dry off your hands
7) Consider liquid chalk
8) Take care of your skin
9) There’s a lot of ways to train, but climbing a lot and trying hard is key
10) Use a hangboard
11) Try different techniques out and get familiar with them
12) Giving 100% one time is better than 50% multiple times
13) Don’t be afraid of failure or caring how you look
14)Go to shoe demos and try different kinds of shoes to find a good one for you
15) Wash chalk off immediately after climbing, hands don’t heal with chalk on them
16) Use a spray wall to learn how route setters think and how the body movements
17) Train the core after your climbing session
18) Warm up before you climb, about 20-30 minutes to avoid injury.
19) Diet is important, but don’t take short cuts by hurting your body to lose weight.
20) Don’t walk away from high grades, they are just made up numbers. Try anything!
Thank you!
Legend!
Amazing
thanks a lot
Thanks mate
I think the most amazing thing about climbing is the community. I promise you, people will not judge you for your failures. if you find that someone is watching they are either wanting to give advice or wanting to learn from you. many times you will find friends in the gym. climbing with people is always better so don't be scared if someone is watching you
I don't know if everybody wan't to hear shouts of encouragement but I am strengthened by them and I like to encourage as much as I can. At a recent climbing championship in New South Wales, I thought the audience were a bit too quiet. Are climbing audiences normally subdued?
I always cheer on new climbers when they come in the gym 99% of them love it and some people will actually join you or vice versa. At my gym it's more of a climbing family than a community.
When I notice someone getting insecure by my staring (Mostly beginners) I always start to chat to tell them I enjoy watching people climb at least as much as climbing myself. If they want tips I'm glad to give them. If they really feel uncomfortable I will mind my own business. And lastly, yes a lot of people look but almost noone judges.
Everyone I meet at the gym is so wholesome and looking to help others, hands down the best community 🙏
@@cambria9893 Yeh I agree so much with the last part. Everyone is watching, but almost no one is judging. Anyone who climb V8-V9 got through the small grades as well. it's a process and almost everyone understands it and wants to help you through it. It's a very nice community :)
I really assumed tip 1-20 would be variations of "use a lot of chalk".
To be fair, a least a quarter of them were "keep your skin dry", what involves chalk in several different manners.
I thought just 1-20 of no warm ups 🥵🤯
Im kind of confused about the thumbnail i must say. Its not recommended to chalk the whole hand??
@@Fred-oz3tw I’ve had to chalk my palm when going for a sloper/wall press on a slab for example 🧗🏻♂️✌🏻
@@bazwax77 y i was thinking about something like that aswell. But it's just in the thumbnail. So im kind of confused, why he doesn't touch that topic there.
Thanks for bringing up eating disorders, Magnus. Climberexia is a real thing, and it's more common than people think among young climbers. I've even had fellow recreational climbers (who are already strong and fit) obsess over dropping a few pounds to send a project. I really appreciate you touching on this, especially with your following of newer and younger climbers. I hope you'll talk about it more in the future.
well spoken.
I think the issue also comes from climbers not treating climbing as a "sport". As any other sport you should probably hit the gym or any other kind of physical preparation to help you perform even better. If you feel good at a certain weight and can't send a project, instead of starving yourself to death just get stronger.
@@jporfirio_ actually, this unhealthy relationship with weight is a thing in many sports. Take martial arts, for instance. Fighters weigh in at several kg below their waking around weight. That being said, becoming a kg lighter is much easier than becoming a kg stronger and climbing at a lower weight in general reduces the wear on your tendons, unless you are ofcourse significantly mallnourished.
@@jporfirio_ what are you even talking about, professional athletes are going through such terrible body transformations only to get a small edge in competition that dropping a few kilos would be your least problem.
Not sure what comes first, but it probably triggers and increases each other, people with eating disorders and or unhealthy relationships with their bodies doing a lot of sport to get even thinner. I met a girl in my age (around 23) with a serious eating disorder, only weighing around 37kg but she’s visiting the gym multiple times a week, training hardcore on finger strength, destroying her body :(
Mad respect for talking so openly and respectfully about ED and weight in climbing. So refreshing to hear someone at your level speaking about these things.
he talked about erectile dysunction?
@@evaristedudas7250 eating disorder
@@evaristedudas7250 beat me to it.
@@evaristedudas7250 😂😂😂😂
Yeah honestly not being a lw to use your peen on a hold is pretty debilitating. I climb with Viagra, it's a game changer
Not respecting a grade is probably the best advice I have ever received. I watched this video, then the next day I went climbing and started 2 v6's. I couldn't complete them but my next session I did them both second try. I would have never even looked at them had I not watched this video.
This is why I love climbing all the climbs after comps. They are all the same colour and I don’t have a clue what the grade is and I attempt them anyway and it 100% helps me improve
TBH there are some V5s at my gym that I struggle to complete, and there's the odd V7 that I'm actually able to send.
I will give pretty much anything a go, and yes I definitely fall more often on the harder grades, but climbing difficult climbs is one of the best ways to improve!
First thing my coach told me: The grade doesn't matter, if it looks fun try it.
Definitely agree on this one. I used to avoid anything above v4 whilst I tried my first 5's but after getting frustrated I branched out and realised I could send some v6 routes and even a few of the challenge routes that are supposed to be the hardest in my local gym. Finally got them v5s but not before trying everything else in the gym no matter what grade.
Gonna apply this tomorrow!
That little bar on the top left that fills up to show how long the tip lasts is so godsend. Sublte but amazing inclusion.
As soon as you said “dieting,” I was prepared to roll my eyes over fad dieting tips to lose weight and gain muscle at the same time (extremely hard even with a dietitian helping), so I was very happily surprised to listen to your talk on eating disorders in the gym. There’s such a focus on “how well I can perform if I was lighter” than “how well I can perform if I fuel my body properly.” As a soon-to-be dietitian, thank you for discouraging eating disorders and encouraging people to speak up and help others with suspected eating disorders.
This might not hold for high-level climbers, but I absolutely got better when I started getting enough fuel in my body. Just letting myself gain a few kg allowed my body to build muscle more easily and keep going for longer. Even climbers who aren't underweight by BMI can benefit from a bit more food.
imagine being scared of food
@@sssss7026 bruh fr like just diet if you get fat 💀
Well, how hard losing weight and gaining muscle at the same time depends on your starting weight. If you're overweight then it's actually very easy (did it myself) but obviously if you're already underweight and you try to lose even more while trying to build muscle that's going to be borderline impossible.
overeating is WAY bigger problem than too little eating that very few people have
I love how honest he is when he doesn't know something. This video was very helpful to me as a beginner.
Magnus waving arms for dry it out!
Me waving hands to reduce shoulder pain😬
Great video brother 🔥🤘😎
Uuuuh Aaaannntoooooon 🎉
Weeee neeeed a collab with you and Magnus!!! 🙏 Or maybe 2...3...27...🤔... However, would be awesome... And whoooouuu 🤯 what about AMJ.. Anton&Magnus&Jonathan?! That would be crazy 👌
@@marioschatzlmair3171 yeah!🤘😎
@@AntonFomenko There would be a point at which you would say, "do you think this is useful?", John would be all "yes, I can see this [insert ridiculous activity here] is an applicable skill" and Magnus would just look at him like he was crazy... and you'd all do it anyway :)
@@KimAndrewsbykimbo ahah! True!)))
@@KimAndrewsbykimbo haha yeeeees sooo true 😂👍 this trio would be soooo amazing
I LOVED hearing you talk about embracing failure. My favorite quote I've heard on this, is "failure is feedback." Every time you fail you're gaining valuable information that will help you improve. As cool as it is to see you flash things, hearing you talk about failure and seeing you include failed attempts in so many videos is really encouraging and motivating!
One of the big motto my father told me since my young age is "falling is learning", and it helped me so much improving in every aspect of my life
Hi, Im relatively new to climbing. My sister and I (who is also climbing with me) have both had eating disorders in the past. I'm so grateful for your sensitivity around weight loss and the serious nature of eating disorders. I greatly appreciate your honesty and will continue to follow and learn from your channel. Thankyou!
Honestly shoutout to Magnus for being as thoughtful and open as he was about the dieting segment, it takes a lot of courage to speak about eating disorders or the things athletes will do to themselves in the name of performance, and I have a lot of respect for the urgency and disclaimers he put on that segment. Great video!
Thank you for talking about eating! Hearing you talk about your eating disorder struggles helped me in ways I can’t express! I’m 6’3” and try to keep my weight at 175 for climbing. Naturally I would be 210. I cried I admit it!
From my experience, the body always optimizes for what you are doing. If you climb for long enough, your weight will naturally drop a bit and stay there.
I am 6'3" and am struggling to get over 175 and put on some muscle, sucks how hard it is sometimes to be the weight you want to be
6’2” here. Not musc muscle and struggling to get to 75 kilos. After 40 it’s a constant battle. The body WANTS to be fat.
I'm 6'4 and 176. Before I started climbing, I weighed in at 236, which put me quite far up the overweight ladder. I find that it is quite easy to tune my weight without feeling starved or miserable. Ofcourse, there is the temptation to go lower, but my wife keeps me in check.
I am 6'3" and 330lbs. I climb. Weight is just a number and not something you should force to match some arbitrary line. Your body will do what your body will do.
I think the spray wall is a better training tool than many climbers realize. Maybe make a video on spray walls where you go through the process of setting a climb and projecting it?
I like this idea!
Not sure a video is needed for this. It goes with his statement about no one training program even for experts. There is no wrong way to train on a spray wall. You can do power by creating a ‘problem’, stamina by staying on as long as possible. The advantage to spray wall is this: because there are so many holds when a move is too hard you can make micro adjustments (use a slightly better/higher foot, or use a slightly larger hold, etc…) that just aren’t possible on pre set problems. It really is the best way to go. I like to train on spray wall 2-3x a week and then go to gym only 1-2 to try out what spray wall has done for me on the pre set problems.
I think the issue with spray walls is that they tend to be geared towards more advanced climbers, at my gym I can't get to the top of it, even using every single hold
Yes this would be helpful.
"caring for your skin, now I could make a whole video on this"
Me: but.. you, already did..
Haha yeah that was a long time ago!
@@magmidt did anything come up new since then, from your perspective?
@@magmidt For me you are the best climbing of the world
@@magmidt it's pretty beneficial tho! I have almost the exact same electric sander you do! By chance too it was my mom's so.. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
@@magmidt Please make another one
I really like the last tip about not respecting grades. I've avoided plenty of boulders or lead routes because I thought they would be above my capabilities, only to get further than I thought I could or even onsighting when I actually gave them a try. I still get shut down more than I send, but even that can be fun when you're with fun people.
So true, I always get a little intimidated by grades, except when it's totally my style. I'd say trying things out and training on things that are very far from your preference and style is very important too.
The only thing I don't like about grades above my level is that my arms tier out too quickly. Perhaps this gets back to speed. One quick try would not waste too much strength?
@@nicholaslittle2312 one quick try is certainly worth it. Maybe even 5 quick tries haha. I wouldn't think of it as a waste of time though as long as you tried really hard.
I recently started climbing, and man its easy to get intimidated by the higher grades. But after watching this I might just give em a try :)
DRINK LOTS OF WATER! hydration is key to preventing injury! dry tendons and muscles are brittle tendons and muscles
the tip counter filling up is a nice touch, props for the editing and thanks for the tips
1. 0:43 Record your climbs
2. 1:18 Clean your shoes from chalk
3. 1:52 Don't overgrip or regrip
4. 2:10 Climb faster
5. 3:24 Climb with straight arms
6. 4:05 Waive hands to dry them
7. 4:33 Use liquid chalk (if you like it)
8. 4:53 Take care of your skin
9. 6:35 You don't need a trainig program
10. 6:57 Get a hangboard
11. 7:50 Use various techniques
12. 8:33 Better try once, but give it 100%
13. 8:50 Don't be afraid of failing
14. 9:32 Find shoes that fit you well
15. 10:16 Wash the chalk off your hands immediately after climbing
16. 10:38 Utilize spray wall
17. 11:43 Train core muscles more
18. 12:16 Warmup properly before climbing
19. 13:17 Maintain healthy diet
20. 15:19 Do not respect higher grades
No. 7: use liquid chalk should be: try out liquid chalk to see if you like it ;)
@@CrazyJacala True, corrected.
Magnus. I have just started rock climbing as a 32 year old after years of watching Climbing documentaries, and CZcams videos. I really appreciate the content you post and I thoroughly enjoy the expertise you have to share with everyone. This video really highlights your humility and dedication too spreading knowledge to others. Thank you and keep on keeping’ on!
Also dont Overtrain. Especially in the beginning. I have been there. The hype is sooo big and you wanna train every day as Hard as you can. Its just a question of time when you injure your self. For me it Was the wrist from too much campus boarding and i clouldnt climb for 9 Months.
Yup. So true. For me I was fine until lockdown, then I took it way too hard too fast and got several little overuse injuries that have taken a long time to heal properly. Also slopers mess up my wrists for some reason, so I gotta take it easy on those. I've picked up a few accute injuries over the last year from making bad decisions and falling in awkward ways on hard ground. So yeah, listen to your body and gut, don't try something that feels wrong/stupid, and resist the desire to train when you shouldn't.
Yup, i got inflammation in my middle finger. Could not climb for 1.5 month.
currently still on a shoulder injury from about 10 months ago... and now I need an MRI scan 😔 I just wanna climb again. Never gonna over train again.
Overtraining and in general not listening to your body. If something hurts, maybe just stop it. And if it's not getting better after a while (1 week), see an orthopedist. I injured my shoulder when i fell from 3m straight on my elbow, however it just hurt a bit but kept functioning, so i just ignored it for some months. Now, almost 3 years, 1 surgery and a lot of reha training later i still have issues...
Dislocated shoulder and tennis elbow for me. better climber now because I pace myself better and know when to rest. Sessions are much more fulfilling now.
I think that’s was a really good video especially the eating part and the disorders that go with it. I’m older (40+) climbed for 15+ years now can’t touch the things I used to as I’m so much heavier. But even though I am heavy I still love the sport and that’s what it’s about. I would like to loose a good few kg but it’s not the be all and end all. Climbing helps me have a great life and time.
same here. Climbing is a great sport, especially lead, which I personally think you can do up to a very high age. I also think it's pretty healthy in all regards, physically as well as mentally.
I'm a heavier climber I'm still new to the sport been doing it 5 months 1 or 2 times a week and climbing 5+ to 6a currently. When I say heavier I'm on about more of the 100+kg heavy
It’s great. I’m about 88kg now not my old 75kg I can still flash a good amount.
If your new watch some of the tips and skills on CZcams with other climbers and just remember every one is different there is no single way for everyone to complete the same climb. And enjoy it.
It is good physically and mentally.
If you want some suggestions on who to watch message on here.
So climb now work later 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
@@jasonfitton5422 i would like to take you up on that offer to recommend channels or videos.
@@stanislasgueniffey1769 Obviously Magnus on this channel , but epic Tv climbing daily, lattice training, wide boyz and rock entry are just a few to go at.
Thank you for not inly highlighting eating disorders, but also being honest enough to recognise your areas of expertise, and advising to get professional advice! That and to look out for those around you; so essential!
The part about eating disorders in the climbing community was such an important message. Thank you for sharing your personal story! Really strong move!!!
strong move absolutely
I don’t know, how many climbers are really so focused on climbing and their climbing performance that they end up losing too much weight? Lots of people can’t even lose weight if their health depends on it.
@@Mike-oz4cv If you are interested in this topic I do recommend watching the documentary „Light“. It’s about eating disorders in the magical world of climbing.
czcams.com/video/thtDQJGrO5s/video.html
Tip 20 is something I’ve had massive success with. When I first started climbing I made pretty rapid progress to V3 and then plateaued hard. I felt strong and couldn’t really figure out what was wrong. There was this random super overhung V7 that looked really fun and had some of my favorite holds on it so I just went for it. I was able to do the easy part, about 10 moves up to the crux and it felt amazing. I knew I had 0 chance of finishing the problem, but still to this day I have that problem memorized and it was my favorite problem I’ve tried and it gave me the confidence to seriously attempt V4s and 5s to break my plateau
"Failing is definitely part of any climber's process" - thanks for this comment. This has so much wisdom in it. I don't even know where to start. :) Very very often the discussion is about results, 'how to top this track, how to achieve some skill/level/recognition'. But very little discussion is focusing on the _process_. It's a shame, as those goals everytime requires a process, and for that process, what you just said "Failing is definitely part of any climber's process", it describes very well what to expect of the process part of any hobby or work. :)
definately agree with you. i allways tell people what are affraid to fail "if you dont fail, there is nothing to improve. so be thankfull for everything you can fail at as it is an oportunity for you to learn something." i came from E-Sports and i remember times where i just won a lot of matches in a row and it got bored so fast.. i also had nothing to work on so i kept my habits and lost focus. all the wins in the training lead into failing when i needed it as i could not adept quick enough. so these routs are called "problems" for a reason. you have to struggle with them and be happy when you grew enough to master them. thats what we all had to go trough in everything we are good in. noone who is a master in his hobby will tell you that there were no fails. fails are what lead you into mastery.
Yea, there's a quote I like - I don't remember who it's from, but it goes 'the master has failed more times than the beginner has even tried'
And I think especially in sports like climbing and gymnastics it's really really easy to see just how true that is. But in reality it's true for, like, everything it's possible to be a master at, from maths to music to art and sport.
every athlete in general yeah
Well done for speaking about eating disorders. I know Magnus isn't usually one to be too personal, but it does change things to have a pro talk about how dangerous it can be.
Hey good on you for speaking up about eating disorders. Really important and you gave it the seriousness it deserved.
Tip 20, best tip. I think everybody should stop to fear higher grades.
Just brush afterwards please :) Especially the first few holds and the sloppers. Thank you !
I'm new to the sport and I keep trying to push myself on 6a climbs been doing climbing 5 months and I have so far done 10 6a routes st my gym which I'm stoked about as took me a lot of attempts to do
Just finished climbing. Perfect timing for next session
Number 69 nips out for power is a legitimate tactic
Really liked the atmosphere/seriousness towards the end of the video.
Thanks so much for addressing eating disorders in tip 19 cause I know a lot of my climbing friends who compete and me have struggled with this. I always felt like I was in an endless cycle of trying to lose weight and it got to a point where it was just unhealthy so I’m glad you’re discussing that 🙏🙏
I was just thinking: "It would be nice if Magnus posted more tutorials and stuff..."
I had no idea that it's good to wash chalk off as soon as possible for skin recovery, especially when climbing outside I often have chalky hands for most of the day because there isn't always a convenient way to wash them off. Guess I'll use a water bottle to clean them off ASAP from now on after climbing. Very useful tips!
Does your gym not have a bathroom? The gym I go to has a water fountain and sink, so right before I leave the gym I just wash off.
@@jacoby310 In the gym I can wash off easily, it's outside where I haven't really bothered to.
I'd love to see a really in depth tutorial on footwork. You always hear "silent feet" and all of that, but i wanna know how i can stand on a coin nailed to a wall. Like what part of my shoe should i stand on for different scenario's and should i be flexing my toes inside my shoe
Thank you for tip #16!
I broke through my first plateau by having two spray wall sessions weekly with experienced climbers and many people underestimate it's effectiveness. It starts off slow at the beginning cos setting is not something most of us usually even consider. But once you get the hang of it it's super useful
This is an amazing video! I’m just getting into climbing, have only done a handful of sessions, but these tips really helped me :) Please do more !
Movement for Climbers and some other channels give great tutorials on the basics
Just started climbing about 3 weeks ago. Your videos gave me the subconscious knowledge to be able to pick up the terminology and the body movements to feel comfortable in the gym with only watching a couple of videos. Thanks for making the videos, and giving your perspective Magnus, it gave me the confidence to pick up a new hobby and it has been a very positive influence on my life :D
as an extremely casual indoor climber i was expecting these tips to be beyond me but they all are very useful! i will be keeping them in mind. i really appreciate tip 19, as someone who used to be underweight, i want to keep my focus on building health and strength as opposed to unhealthy ideals of what my body "should" be.
TIP 17
Make a video about bouldering specific CORE WORKOUTS (at home and gym)
just do leg raises brah
@@metalcl0ne hahah looking for some more routined excercises
He's done his workout routine ages ago and repeated it recently. Look at his past vlogs for it
I just started this hobby last week! So this video is perfect for me, thanks Magnus!
In addition to warm-ups before climbing, I would say that cool-downs at the end of a session should be included. Especially as you get older. Thanks for making this video!
Thank you so much for talking about eating disorders in sports, especially among men. Eating disorders in general are stigmatized, but especially among men they aren’t discussed nearly enough!
The grades are somewhat relative too. I boulder in a gym where the difficulty is sometimes higher than the actual grade. Compared to another gym I visited a few times some routes felt way easier than I was used to for the grade they put it up for. Also reaaaaally depends on style. A 6c+ slab problem is so different from a 6c+ overhang problem. Or shouldery big moves VS crimpy precise moves.
I climbed on a concrete climbing tower that mimics real rock and it's so much different than climbing in a gym with colored holds.
The tower is way more complex to climb than in the gym, the holds are small and you have to figure out yourself where you put your hands and feet (thy gym usually only gives you a few options). But it is also less exhausting, since most of the routes are vertical or slanted and it has only a few overhanging routes (and the overhanging parts are short). In the gym, there are many (long) overhanging routes, but the holds are usually much larger and easier to find.
I find the tower harder than the gym, unless the grading is off. In the gym, I climbed two (okay, for one I don't know if I did it correctly, white holds with rubber on them and black holds with chalk on them are hard to tell apart) 5a routes on the first try, but on that tower, I'd have a hard time finding any 5a I can beat.
But seriously, that tower is awesome. You can use techniques that you can't use in the gym, such as using edges (both outward and inward), cracks and chimneys. It feels so much more like rock (okay, I'm a beginner and haven't really climbed real rock). However, the downside of concrete is that it's (near) impossible to build new routes.
@@angrybirder9983 Not every beginner start in climbing gymn.
I have never been in a climbing gymn. I started on rocks and never tried in a gymn.
Back i the 80ies, most climbers (even the best professional climbers) climbed only outside on natural rocks.
@@sabalight2558 Here's the thing: I live in a place witout any natural rock anywhere near.
For some reason I watched the whole Video, even I don't climb. Such a charismatic guy.
Keep it up Magnus !
Maybe you can start :)
@@travisrexrode1538 You know what it looks like a lot of fun I think i'll try it.
But i'am a bit heavy (107kg) 😀.
@@deintraining2392 that does not matter :-) I am heavier than the average climber/ boulderer (6 feet and 198 pound female), and can still do it. Just give it a try!
@@alisjefarbridges5723 I think you're right. Thanks for the support 🙏 😀.
I think for the first time rental stuff from the gym will be fine right ?
@@deintraining2392 sure renting stuff the first time is a great idea. You should definitely give it a go!
I just did my first bouldering session today and it was a blast! I've been looking for a fun way to get in shape and get down to a healthy weight, and I think climbing is going to do the trick. So glad CZcams recommended your channel to me!
This was awesome Magnus, I respect how much he genuinely cares for his viewers as he gives these tips.
Hi Magnus, nice video! I'm a beginner and one tip I think you should cover is rings and the dangers of climbing with a metal ring on your finger. I had a minor injury caused by a ring while climbing once but I just learned about degloving today and was completely horrified.
The last tip really hit home, I need to start looking at and trying the grades that I think are too hard for me. I think that if I find a hard boulder that is too hard for me, but really fun, that I'll try really hard and perhaps get better faster than only doing boulders I am able to flash
One thing that we see with top climbers is that they go back to the same hard climbs again and a again and again even if they are getting only one extra move each visit. This is how they reach a new personal best!
I think it would be super useful to explore the "diet" subject. I think one of the bad things about the diet word is people use or see it as a word that means using food to lose weight. Diet should mean what you eat and a diet can do different things. Just like you mentioned you are trying to gain weight so you are changing your diet.
As you said you struggled with this and many people have too. It would be cool of you to use your platform to visit and talk with a dietician and/or a nutritionist. It would be a nice educational experience for everyone from a climbers perspective
When I first started climbing I was always around climbers who were pretty good and a lot of them told me a myth that chalking the tips of your climbing shoes help with grip just like your hands. For some reason I didn’t think too much about it and kept doing it every single time I would climb, most of the time slipping even when in sturdy positions. Recently I saw another video where Magnus talked about that myth not being true and I was like boom lightbulb went off lol. Thank you yet again Magnus haha💪🏽
I felt 19. Thanks for the honesty. Been there twice with cycling. Started climbing ten months ago and found I have to talk myself out of not eating sometimes.
Its crazy how ive been watching your videos since back in the day when you were a primarily vlogging channel, but i never knew you struggled with weight. Im so glad your a big strong guy now and are okay with that. I love watching your videos, seeing how much effort you put into everything you do, and seeing you interact with other youtubers. Youre always looking to challenge yourself in a new way. Thats bery venificial. (Reference to this video at the end)
I'm going to send people this when they ask me what to do to Improve as a climber
Ikr, finally, I won't have to answer this question anymore. I have recently resorted to the answer "Just do better" It gets mixed responses
@@josephclimbs9495 I work at the largest climbing gym in Canada and a lot of people ask for this type of advice. Really it comes down to the principles Magnus shared. I think a lot of people also don't understand that it takes YEARS to get better at climbing at a certain point, but if you're never changing the way you climb how will you ever get better?
Thank you so much for tip #19, it is an extremely important message. I have had many family and friends fall victim to eating disorders via high level athletics (gymnastics, ballet) and it's tragic. So glad you were able to beat your disorder (or at least that's how it seems) and thanks for sharing.
i like it very much that you emphasize the selfcare during climbing and still encourage us viewers to go beyond our mental boundaries :) ballance is the key!
Dude, I've been here since around 4k subs, your growth has been phenomenal. Fantastic job! Also should out to the homies Juji & Tom
Wise words and attitude on diet, given more strength by your obvious personal experience - thank you x
Another awesome video Magnus. Been climbing for 2/3 months now and your videos are helping me understand myself as a climber as well as climbing itself. Much love, keep doing you!
Your videos made me start climbing a year ago and i’ve found I’m using most of your tips, those are very helpful, thank you Magnus !
I would also like to thank you for talking about eating disorders. I used to be a professional ballet dancer and struggled with eating disorders for years. I recently got into climbing and worry about the struggle continuing here for me.
Thanks for speaking about eating disorders in the climbing community. It’s something I really struggle with and it’s good to see people speaking out against disordered eating more lately
So glad I found your channel! I like that you are so honest and sympathetic!
Thanks for the tips! My favorite is #20 because I love trying things I have no chance of doing. Bonus is that sometimes I do them :D
Also, thank you for being open in #19 about your personal experience with eating disorders. I've been watching this channel for a long time and always kinda wondered how you avoided such things. I'm glad you're healthy now. If people haven't watched it yet, the documentary Light covers this topic pretty well too and is on youtube free.
Mayonnaise
Magnus, I am so so glad to hear what you had to say for tip 19. You are correct, dieting for weight loss is never a path to better climbing, because you are trying to force your body to change rather than letting your body regulate itself in response to what it is doing. Our bodies are incredible machines and we shouldn't think we know better what the scale should say. Climbing and exercise will change your body, and sometimes in unexpected ways, don't assume you know what is going to work best. Let the process happen naturally in response to the work you are doing.
More candid talk around climbing is always appreciated.
Thank you for sharing Magnus! Please make more videos about this subject and personal experiences while rock climbing. We love your channel!
Fantastic tips!! Any further tips on strengthening your legs for heel hooks, toe hooks and bicycle's and maybe vertical versus over hanging techniques would be cool. Thank you so much for your efforts, videos and passion for climbing in all its forms :)
I LOVE the editing in this one, especially the intro and the "progress bar" on the tips. Great video! I'd love to see a video on dealing with injuries, but I know you never got injured for climbing so I'll probably never see that haha.
Been climbing for about ten years and enjoyed this. Lot's of valuable info. Thanks Magnus!
I love you Magnus. Stay strong man it's good of you to talk about a topic others may skirt over for the climbing gains. 😊
I enjoy the ADHD meter at the top left lol. Tip #9 is great. Training programs are a good way to overtrain, especially following a day by day routine and trying to push through injuries to meet the requirements. Just keep adding to your toolbelt of exercises and check in with your body to see whether you can step on the gas or you need to pull back a bit.
I don't know who these training programs are made for, but definitely not for beginners or intermediate climbers.
Amazing! Just started climbing a few weeks ago and while I was doing some of these things naturally (washing chalk off right away- thanks OCD) there were some things I didn't consider like going hard the first time even if it's not "technically" correct. I'm definitely guilty of activating my biceps and not trusting my arms to hold me up, but I think as I keep going that will get better.
Thank you for the practical tips! Would love to see more content about different techniques. You whizzed through the names and I'm like "oh, those sound interesting" 😊
Magnus, I want to applaud you for this video! It's not only a bunch of actually really helpful tips for climbers, it is also a very honest and personal video - at least that's what I feel like.
Very different from the more entertainment like videos in the recent past (not that they are bad; just different) - much appreciated :)
So much respect to you for being able to say you don't feel like you don't have enough knowledge about a subject to express your opinion on it. The internet and the whole world would be a better place if more people had the integrity, self-awareness and respect you present!
I'm getting such different messages here, haha, and I love it.
Your video: great advice that covers the major issues and pitfalls of climbers with thoughtful solutions.
The fanbase: take off your shirt, no such thing as too much chalk, and just be Magnus.
But seriously, I'm saving this video and will be referring to it over the years. Thank you ^_^
Who else waited for the pro tip about taking off shirt before climbing?!
I am in awe. You managed to bring your points across so that it was easy to follow and also managed to Do so on an incredibly professional Level. Big Fan of your Videos and personality here. Keep em coming
Thank you, you spoke well and from the heart....you also gave good advice with awesome objectivity. Keep shining
Tip 19 is why Magnus is such an awesome human being
I really appreciate tip nr. 20. I naturally go towards boulders that I think are my level. I don’t even look or touch any of the boulders above this grade. Feels like a wasted opportunity now to sometimes push myself a bit more and try out some different holds.
I apprecate you sharing these tips and talking about eating disorder issues. You were open and I hope this inspires others who are struggling to talk through what they are going through.
Love the tips! We all look up to you as a climbing mentor so advice like this is priceless!
Tip 8!
I've been wondering about climbing skin care for a long time and got no idea what to do. Would be really cool to see a more in depth dive into the topic :)
I'm 2mins in but just wanted to say that I really appreciate the progress bar on the top!! It's great 😍
Dude, I love how you think and speak. Really resonated with me. Great tips.
I'll be saving this. Your videos have inspired me to start climbing! These tips will help in my journey. Thanks Magnus!
A note on your last tip:
This is HUGE! I'm a pretty new climber, my brother has been climbing for a year or two pretty consistently. I have a taller and more stretched out physique than he does, which allows me to climb certain problems he can't figure out, but also makes certain ones very challenging for me where he can flash them. Climbers are like fingerprints, all unique!
I’m early. Does Magnus respond? Let’s see 😯
Also, really needing an in depth video on drop knees and opposite hand opposite foot technique. I’m currently climbing v4s and some soft v5s and I’ve noticed my technique is really bad
I'm here🙌🏻
Oh! Also, "Movement for Climbers"
He has a lot of videos on the intermediate techniques
Thank you Magnus, I really appreciate what you are doing for the climbing community
I want to say thanks for getting me back into climbing, I used to do it a lot but I just got bored and stopped climbing. After seeing your videos I got inspired to start climbing again. Because of that I have been getting a lot stronger and into shape. Thanks!
Thank you, magnus. Love the tip about not respecting the grade.
I was genuinely waiting for the shirt off for power
I tried it, sent my first 5.12b outdoors
You sir have opened my mind with the 20 tips! Thank you 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
this is such an awesome video!! thank you so much! i love the point about personalization toward the end :)
Could you do a video on climbing terms and phrases?
I find myself not understanding or recognizing a bunch of the terms in your videos and I think a visual dictionary video would be amazing for new climbers and probably become a super popular video. I know I searched for it when I first started but didn't find anything.