Painless Hyundai Elantra Ball Joint Replacement ($45/wheel)
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- čas přidán 11. 09. 2024
- This video shows a 2011 Hyundai Elantra, but the procedure is similar on many other cars.
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of Tall Family Films, I don't make any guarantees against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Tall Family Films assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. Tall Family Films recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Tall Family Films, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Tall Family Films.
I was looking at many videos today trying to figure out how to remove a ball joint and replace one using the ball joint tool. I had no luck. Then I came across your video and you were very clear and concise. Thank you so much I had no problem using the tool that you demonstrated. It was a sinch. Thank you for putting out this amazing video I am sure you have helped many of us. Cheers
Thank you for taking the time to post this informative video.
For the lower ball joint, if you take a ratchet wrench and tap it with a rubber mallet, it comes off like a dream. Worked perfectly for me when replacing the whole control arm.
Ball joint replacements are rarely easy. It involves tools that you usually don't have, but the good news is you can borrow them from Autozone! Let me know if you have any trouble and I'll do my best to get you through it. You can do this!
That’s a big no no, never hit the smooth surface of the rotor with hammer, that’s a good way to warp the rotor, the safer place is to hit is the center area near the wheel studs.
Good feedback - I believe the word I used was “tap”, not hit. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the screwdriver and the rotor trick
thanx for the pro guidance
make sure to align the ball joint to where the cotter pin can be accessed before installing
I just did this and it was by no means easy. Living in Minnesota everything gets rusty and there was a lot of hammering and cussing.
LOL - then you were clearly doing it right :)
I bet you were shocked at the difference of yours to mine since this car was from the south. Almost zero rust!
Glad you got it done and hope this video was helpful.
Sometimes replacing the entire control arm is worth the extra $40 it would cost
Great video But It’s way easier to just replace the control arm that has a built-in ball joint lol as you mentioned right after I continue watching
The axel nut coming off is just for the bearing right? You don't need to take that off to get to the ball joint or the tie rods do you? Do you need to take the rotor off to get to either of those?
In my case, I remove the axle nut to remove the bearing. So you probably could skip that stuff to just do tie rod ends and the ball joint. Same for the rotor but the rotor is so simple to remove, reduce weight in the flopping knuckle, and gives you a ton better access.
I was watching that and the whole time I was like, why? The only thing remotely in the way of the nut needing removed is knuckle itself. Why waste the time with the brakes and axle nut at all. Seems just like more steps and extra headache. The tierod I get but the rest of the pain I'm going to skip out on if I can.
@@stoic779 PLEASE tell us if it works.
@@TallFamilyFilms I removed the breaks when I did mine but not the rotor or axle nut. It was a little tight but it all worked out.
when installing the ball joint do you just turn until the press wont turn any further? i think i got it but i'm not entirely sure if i get the ball joint in as far as it's supposed to go. i got to where i couldn't budge it at all and was afraid to force it any further
Did your new ball joint have a snap ring that you put on after pressing it in? I used one in this video. If it does, and you can get it on, then you have it on far enough.
@@TallFamilyFilms it does but i haven't put it on yet because i wasn't sure exactly where it's supposed to be. with the old ball joint so messed up, and not being able to get to the one on the other side to see it i wasnt totally sure where it went. looking at a few other videos also it looks like i've got it right.. i'll need any alignment anyway and will ask my garage to make totally sure i've gotten it where it needs to be
@@shrews12001 cool. If the ring goes on into the designated slot on the ball joint, it’s where it’s supposed to be
@@TallFamilyFilms I believe it did but will have it checked when I get the balance just to be sure. Threw me off a little because the new ring having the small protrusions where the holes for the pliers are makes it seem like it's not quite in place, like just maybe a millimeter or two.
@@shrews12001 I understand your fear. The first time you do things like this it really does make you worry. It’ll get easier down the road. :-)
When replacing things in pairs, remember to use the opposite one, that’s still in the box as your model.
One thing to consider would be to try to lightly press the ball joint back out with the ring in place. It won’t come out if it’s in properly. I mention this because the alignment shop might not want to comment on your work. You could even do a quick test with the ring in place, and then, with it off. You would see the difference.
Great video. I followed along and was able to successfully complete this job. My fellow Canadians: I rented free tools from canadian tire and parts source.
I have a question: did you torque down the nut on top of the ball joint? If so, how much?
@@arfeenmalik8331 I think so - but don’t recall the details. I also don’t recall if that was a castle nut or not but if it is and you can’t get the pin through after torquing, you always go tighter, not looser to get the pin in.
RockAuto makes finding this part way easier, and cheaper, most times atleast
I love rockauto! I buy almost all my parts there. This one was sprung on me last minute so I didn’t have time for delivery. Great thinking!
I have the same issue on my Hyundai i40 from 2017 but i have hard to find only the ball joint they all sell it with the contro arm but it’s really expensive so can you tell me how did you get the part number? And from where did you order the part, because im thinking can it be possible in the newer model its not possible to replace only the ball joints so you have to purchase the control arm?
Thanks
At the 12:05 mark, is there something between the top of the clamp(green piece) and the ball joint?
@@dad0041 I don’t believe I had to use anything
hi
which mm socket are you using to loosen the axel nut
thxxx
32mm
Without being able to see it I'm hoping i can figure out how to press the new one in without damaging it. Every other video on ball joints they all face the other way.
You can do this. If you remove it using this video, putting it back in will be pretty intuitive.
Shoulda' got the same year of KIA Forte. Those ball joints are bolt-ins.
Bolted in? I’ve never seen that. Does that make it easier or harder?
@@TallFamilyFilms Shit, I'm hoping easier! Going to tackle them this week.
Ditto for me on the bolt-ins, but that's the setup. 2 bolts that go up-into the knuckle, which hold the ball joint to the bottom side of it, and the main bolt that is on the ball joint stud are literally the only fasteners etc. that have to be removed or messed with.🤷
@@revolutionday1 good luck! Please report back - or better yet…record it and post it! :)