Defekt Ryobi 18V Battery,, I FAIL and need your HELP - 1327
Vložit
- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- I was send a broken Ryobi 18volt battery, from a friendly subscriber "Jonas" was not able to relive this battery. I would love to fix it, to be able to share the fix with everyone,, so more batteries can be relieved.
If you have a good sugestion to what could be wrong here,, I would love some help with this.
🅿🅰🆃🆁🅴🅾🅽 : / myplayhouse
🆃🆆🅸🆃🆃🅴🆁 : / mortenhjorth
🅵🅰🅲🅴🅱🅾🅾🅺 : / mortensplayhouse
[Affiliate Links]
🅱🅰🆁🅶🅰🅸🅽 🅷🅰🆁🅳🆆🅰🆁🅴 : www.bargainhar...
Using the 𝘾𝙤𝙪𝙥𝙤𝙣 𝘾𝙤𝙙𝙚 : 𝙢𝙮𝙥𝙡𝙖𝙮𝙝𝙤𝙪𝙨𝙚 at checkout will give you 5% discount.
#diyprojects #ryobi #fix
___________________________________________________________________________________________________
/ myplayhouse
For 3$ a month, you get an extra weekly "What's UP" update video. Just for my Patrons. The Support I resave on patreon is all used on stuff to make interesting videos on CZcams.
My PlayHouse is a channel where i will show, what i am working on. I have this house, it is 168 Square Meters / 1808.3ft² and it is full, of half-finished projects.
I love working with heating, insulation, Servers, computers, Datacenter, green power, alternative energy, solar, wind and more. It all costs, but I'm trying to get the most out of my money, and my time.
You already had a good indication at the first component you tested - if a diode read normal out of circuit but shorted in circuit - something is shorting this diode - find the short and you have a reasonable chance you found the busted component. if you have another battery with the same circuit board you can compare measurements between boards
Hi @fransvankralingen725
Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
The two mosfets are behaving exactly like they should.
When you have the diode voltage is because it has a built in diode from source to drain (many mosfet are like this).
While when you measure zero is because you charge the tiny capacitor between gate and source, this “closes” the “contact” between source to drain.
The left pin is probably the gate, the common pin the drain and the right pin the source. I agree it operates like magic :)
Hi @SuperSerNiko97
Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
This battery was wet and was dried but it looks like the board was never taken off from the battery assembly. I think, when you take off the board, you'll find water damage on the other side. Also, taking off the board shuts down the MCU and it might reset the error state the battery is in. The board should be cleaned with alcohol at both sides and then, hopefully it can be fixed. Anyway, good to see the MCU is still alive. It is able to blink the led when you press the button. The MCU is the most problematic thing, because it is programmed and the only way you can find a replacement is to open another battery. Problem is most probably in the cell voltage measurement circuits. The MCU probably thinks one of the cells is dead but you measured all of them at 3.9V.
The packaging and delivery time of the new mosfets suggest that you ordered them from China. Possibly these mosfets are relabeled or rejects. Use the original mosfets. They test good.
If you need to order parts for repairing stuff, you should order at a reputable electronics component house. Those China components can be used in DIY stuff where current-carrying capability is not so important.
I'd rather see 'dumb' batteries with a basic protection and balancing circuit in it. With those you can tinker. With the newer ones, not so much. There's an MCU that needs to be able to talk to the charger or the tool. The circuitry in my tools is even more convoluted. There's no protection mosfets in the battery itself. There's only the balancing and that annoying MCU. It communicates with the circuitry in the tool and it will not power on if the battery didn't say it is okay to do so. And it will also communicate with the charger. I've seen that communication on an oscilloscope. It is a digital data signal. So, if my tools need an okay signal from the battery in order to turn on, that means that I won't be able to power them from another source. Very annoying.
If I would like to use my tool batteries as a power source in a safe way, I'll need to buy a sacrificial tool in order to get the full protection circuitry. Or just connect it up and hope that I don't discharge the battery to the point cell damage will occur. And if I would like to run my tools on an alternate power source, I need to buy a sacrificial 4Ah battery that will be able to provide the okay signal to the tool. (Some power-hungry tools won't run on the 2Ah battery)
I didn't buy sacrificial stuff yet because I think it is wrong to sponsor this tool brand any more. I also don't have the time to try to reverse-engineer it and emulate the signals using an Arduino.
Hi @fluffyblue4006
Thank You very much! that was a lot of info,,, glad you liked the video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
❤❤ Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience!
Hi Morten! I am glad that I could provide you with a mystery. I hope there is a solution. You recall correctly. I had the battery plugged in to a light, and forgot it in a tarp, which was filled with water overnight. I took apart the battery, and let it dry out. Never got it to charge. It has been sitting around for a year at least. Luckily I found a 2-pack 5AH battery pack, and received a 9AH one for a gift (great for my chainsaw).
...and those pads are not filters - they an absorbent packing material to avoid essential oils from leaking all over the place while being shipped.
Thank You for the mystery 🙂 I have really tried everything.. But I hope someone comes with a good sugestion.
I have a bat with the same problem. Accidentally left my tool outside overnight and it rained. Brought it back in and let it dry, but it would not output voltage out of the stork, but battery's showed normal voltage when disassembled and tested. I got some more life out of it however, That reset symbol is not for them too solder joints, It's for the last through hole. I put my metre on to current, then pulled RST low to ground then high to 4 .4 volt. It then showed 5 bars of charge. but it goes back to 1 when put into a tool and still not output.
The main difference between your battery and mine is that mine had absolutely zero signs of corrosion. No watermarks or anything. I'm worried that the battery microcontroller might deadlock Itself whenever it detects a fault condition. For your safety of course... Not to prevent repairability and sell more batteries, I'm sure.
I know that you can buy a ryobi battery kit from this Chinese seller. I bought just a motherboard itself from them myself and it successfully got delivered. However, I accidentally popped the board by not watching where my wires were flying, And the lithium-ion batteries dumped their power somewhere where it shouldn't go... I have not yet bought another main board since, but it would be interesting to take both sets of cells and turn it into two smaller capacity batteries using their complete assembly kit.
www.lithiumbatterypcb.com/product/p108-ryobi-5s-li-ion-battery-18v-pcb-board/
As I’m sitting here and. Came across your video I’m in the process of replacing the 18650 cells in three Ryobi battery packs 😊great video
Thank You,, I ended up having to replaces the PCB on this battery,, here is that video, if you should become so unlucky : czcams.com/video/Wx2lC6vsEjw/video.html
But that worked for me..
Good multi month time warp editing
I like the 3 hour projekts much better!!
The fact that the battery meter reads low, probably means there is a cooked current shunt resistor, or the micro is not able to measure the battery pack voltage with it's resistor divider. This could be a red herring, as the micro might just flash low battery when it's in fault condition... but I haven't pulled one apart to see as all my ryobi batteries still work ;)
Best sugestion so far!! :-)
I think if the shunt resistor is burnt the Mosfets should be burnt also because normaly the shunt can take more current than a mosfet. It seems that the mosfets are not getting a signal to their gates.
The principle of diode test mode on a DMM is that the meter tries to force about 1 milliampere through the diode, or a resistor for that matter, and then tells the resulting voltage. But the key thing is, it cannot provide more voltage than the meter design has made available. That could be just 1.999 V for low cost (3 1/2 digit) meters and possibly a little more for fancier meters. If there is some external voltage over the diode, the meter internal 1 mA supply can not overcome it and shows just overload. All that means, you probably don't get any meaningful indication, when there is a 4-volt or higher battery involved around the diode. Then to the MOSFET story. All they have an internal parallel diode, inherent between the Source and Drain. For N-channel FET the diode structure is Cathode at Drain. The Gate is totally insulated from the other terminals -- only certain amount of capacitance. If you try to measure your "diode" between the gate and the source, you either charge or discharge the gate, depending on the polarity. For many FETs, the diode test voltage of the meter can charge the gate enough for the Drain to Source path to allow the tiny 1 mA test current to flow, an in fact in both directions. So the diode in parallel appears to be shorted. That means, your FET measurements were exactly as expected.
I would suggest not pursuing more diode tests. Rather measure voltages, including is the group of small transistors supplying anything to the gates of the big FETs. Of course also, what are the voltages on battery series, not one by one, check the progress from one end to each pair. Your individual pair results indicated a well functioning (or functioned) BALANCING operation. Also, you don't seem to suffer from what I have experienced a couple of times -- opening of the internal pressure detecting fuse contact. That contact makes the cell totally disconnected and the only remedy is replacement. As a "fun" side story, I once tried to reset the pressure sensing dome. After some failed attempts, I succeeded, got the cell show respectful voltage and tried to charge the pack. All OK, but just a few moment with applied load, it popped open again. Apparently the increased length of the cell was permanent and pushed the dome to snap open, again from my marginal restoration.
Sorry, I cannot give more relevant advice about your actual problem by just watching your video!
Yarh,, lot´s of wisdom,, but no fix :-)
OL does not mean Overload. It means "Over Limit". It means Infinity Ohms or basically and open circuit.
it almost looks like some acid or electrolyte leaked from the end batteries. the tabs were missing the shiny metal coating and looked kind of rusty/corroded. when you measured the diode i saw solder flake off. the electrolyte could have damaged/corroded copper traces in the cicruit board or the solder of parts connected to the board.
All batteries measured fine and I had the PCB under a microscope,, and did not see anything,, missing :-/
You should get a component tester (I use the "deluxe" version with a scope and generator: FNIRSI DSO-TC3 less than 50€ but there're cheaper option for only tester function) it will give you more informations about the healt of diodes, capacitors or MOFSET than a multimeter
Humm christmas is coming :-)
@@MyPlayHouse LCR-T4 component tester also works well. it's called an LCR tester.
@@MyPlayHousethe LCR-T4 is cheap. $21 CAD
your mosfets are behaving like they should. GATE(left pin) DRAIN(top tab/short middle pin) SOURCE(right pin) when you charge the gate the mosfet will allow current to flow from source to drain. if you short-circuit source to gate it will go back to behaving like a diode again between source and drain. the gate acts like a capacitor so it will hold a charge for a little while.
to test a mostfet... black meter lead on SOURCE(right pin) red meter lead on DRAIN(tab or middle) should read OL. then holding black lead on SOURCE touch red lead to GATE then red lead to DRAIN. it should then be reading 0.0000. that tells you it is controlling the silicon switch. MOSFETs have body diodes for flyback protection between SOURCE and DRAIN.
Yes,, I did not see the logic to start with,, normally they open and shout faster than I can move the peens.
I was trying to fix my lawn mower Ryobi 40V battery. The meter read 41V, so It was fully charged with all the cells balanced. But pressing the test button only read 2 LEDs. While I cleaned the board with alcohol all the LED came on with the last one blinking. But that lasted only 20 seconds... time for the Alcohol to evaporate? Or is the alcohol cooling down a hot component? We used to troubleshoot defective components that overtemp by using dusting spray because its solvent gets freezing cold on the area that is sensitive, indicating a bad component there. Sometimes we need to resurrect PCB with SMD chips by doing the opposite, that is remelting their solder joints. Since your board has seen moisture and rust it is possible that some pins are shorting on the controller from rust across. I would give it a ultrasonic cleaning and then "cook" it or blow hot air at 380C for 2 minutes or so. But you desolder the cell and remove anything that is not heat resistant. However I understand why you decided to replace it with a new board. But that does not replace the know how you get out of troubleshooting successfully electronics and sharing this experience with others.
I would have loved to fix this PCB,, but lets just admit it,, If I need to replaces SMD's or do other advanced stuff to get it up and running again,, I lose the audiences,, in the way that only a few % will be able to copy and do that.. If you have a broken battery in a garden tool,, does not make you able to replacing SMD components :-) So I replaced the PCB in this video : czcams.com/video/Wx2lC6vsEjw/video.htmlsi=aJpFazQkwQrvxZms
At the beginning of the video when you pulled the upper casing off of the battery a little small thin metal piece fell out and you never say where it came from or where it goes when you put it back together where does it go
It goes up the end of the plastic,, the part that goes inside you tool.
Micro controller is dead.
Your power FETs are not turning on.
So you should have a voltage reading system the back bit you showed looks like the balance function as it's analogue... The would send a signal to the MC to turn on the fets.
Just pull the BMS off, replace it. Print a bracket for the terminals so it can be used and job done.
Hi @guywhoknows
Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
You might have to figure out which pins on the mosfets are the gate and figure out which ones need to be on and off, and then check to see if you are getting the voltages on tge gates you need to have power go to the tools. It is a deep drive type of fix. Ill assume the mosfets are off, and you then will have to troubleshoot the controlling circuit. You can use a good battery for comparison.
Plan B, if you have a battery with a good board and bad cells, take the board and use it with the good cells.
Plan C,,, get a new board ripoff from China :-)
in short: corosion on the batty positiv head says battery is (almost) dead! the heads valve opened, cause of some error.
Hi @qwertzNutzer
Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
the angle grinder I took it from (and the LEDs of the BMS) didn't work until I put it on the Makita Charger for a short time.
I do not think Makita and Ryobi is enough alike to have the same problems :-)
I know that Milwaukee batteries also resets themself if plugged into a charger. @@MyPlayHouse
CZcams is messing up, and climes that I have not replied to this,, sorry for the "disturbance in the force" :-/
I had a kind of similar Problem with a Makita BMS. Have you tried to put it on the original charger after repair/ resetting? Makita Chargers communicate with the BMS Chip, probably to make sure the cells are balanced. In my Case I had to charge the battery with a hobbyist LiPo Charger because I didn't have a working original one. The Pack was fully charged and worked fine outside the tool but
Hi @r.funden4512
Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
nlba laptop battery analyzer you can read it over the pins near the reset and reset the battery etc and read the tempture sensor
Hi @DDICyber
Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
My guess is that this "smart" battery needs hacked firmware like they do with Dyson vacuum cleaner batteries. It's easier to buy a new one than to try to try to burn down your house with inept hands)
Hi @spectreone2837
Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
I have exactly the same symptoms on a Ryobi 4A battery. All cells are 3.8 to 3.9v What I noticed is if you monitor the voltage at the +/- terminal and press the button, for about 3 seconds I get 18v at those terminals. But I still haven't determined which component is failing.
I did a later video,, replacing the BMS : czcams.com/video/Wx2lC6vsEjw/video.html
maybe you want to go this route..
What size and kind of torx screw did you use? I can't find the right torx for it. I'm reffering to the screws inside the batterry holder
You need security torx, there is a little hole in the middle of them.
@@MyPlayHouse yeah I got all that part but do you happen to remember what size? I already bought 2 different sets of torx drivers but none fits. Btw, thanks for taking the time to answer, other content creators are a snob
@@fulcrum062505 size 10 torx
Save the batteries, and scrap the rest. Upgrade to a herculies tools from har bour freight. 10x better tool over a ryobi.
I think that is more of an opinion, than facts 🤔
Hello My PlayHouse, I have a Ryobi 18V / 5.0 Ah battery, which no longer charges...
The charger light is green, but... nothing is charging
I would like to do a reset.
I found the RST, (it's exactly the same card), but I'm looking for the other entry point, to make the bridge with the electrical wire
If you have the solution...🙂
I only fixed this by replacing the PCB,,, that worked... video : czcams.com/video/Wx2lC6vsEjw/video.htmlsi=E9l-6TFBPnXomZyk
BMS 5S 15A 18V 21V 18650 Li-ion Lithium Battery Charger Protection Board Balancer Power Bank Charger for Drill
15A is wery much on the low side,, you can pull about a 1000W from a battery like this
@@MyPlayHouse
Good point.
3s/4s/5s Bms 12v 16.8v 21v 3.7v 100a Li-ion Lmo Ternary Lithium Battery Protection Circuit Board Li-polymer Balance Charging
£3.17
10+ pieces, extra 5% off
P108 10*18650 Li-ion Battery Plastic Case Charging Protection Circuit Board PCB Box For RYOBI 18V P103 P118 BPL-1815 1820G ONE+@@MyPlayHouse
I think at least one of your battery is dead or leaking! I got the same problem as you!
I did manage to fix it in a later video : czcams.com/video/Wx2lC6vsEjw/video.html :-)
Maybe the mosfets get no on signal. If the electronic has a regulated power supply I would check if thr 5V or whatever is o.k.. Then look where the on signal can come from.
There is so much stuff back there, that could cause that... :-/
Hi.
I have a ryobi 18v, 1.5 Ah. When I measure voltage in the battery pack it shows 19.95v but if i measure it on the tower outlet it shows only 7.7 v. When pushing the test button it rises up to 19.95 as long as the green led is on then back to 7.7 when green led is off. The test gives only 2 green bars on.
I don't understand why. Can you help me fixing it.
Thank you
If the cells are vell balanced, and you are still not getting good power out of it,,this is the only way I know right now : czcams.com/video/Wx2lC6vsEjw/video.html
"can't really see anything bad" as he is turning past all the green corrosion and the really nasty solder @7:55
That is nothing!!
Maybe Morten was wearing sunglasses in his creepy Danish basement? ;)
Where does the piece go that fell at the beginning????
Up the end of the tower,, can be a little fatedly to get back in there.
LOL, Apparently the link I added in my response got flagged as spam and I got a complaint about it... not spam at all youtube... anyhoo, This is essentially what it said: If so, use ‘mini-charges’ - slot the battery into the charger for a few secs, remove before the lights flash. Repeat up to 30 min until it has enough charge to ‘revive’ itself.
You,, must have missed the part where I check all the cell´s and find that they are all super fine and in balances..
@@MyPlayHouse Yeah, I saw that and considered it, but it may still be that the memory chip *thinks* it's dead and this process apparently forces it to get out of bed so to speak. Edit: this is because the onboard microcontroller runs it's battery safety program and stores values in it's memory. From what I understand, this process cycles and refreshes the memory, allowing the battery to essentially reset it's onboard system and grab updated values...
@@digitalsparky What memory chip are you talking about? Specifically.
Just solder wires from main pos neg and use till it dies
Nah,, that is a solution,, I did a later video on replacing the PCB,, and that fixed it.
Not supposed to ship damaged or defective lithium batteries
That is not helpful.
@@MyPlayHouse it is to anyone that doesn't want to get fined, or worse.. A lot of people, apparently you included, don't understand that lithium batteries are hazardous material. For instance, you absolutely are not allowed to ship a battery via air, by itself, if it's more than 30% charged. Was that battery in your video charged? How do you know, it's damaged... That's why there's special handling requirements for damaged batteries.... Helpful enough or should I go on?
C27 looks to be missing on the board 23:58
There are stuff missing,, that is pretty normal.
Your problem may lie with the extensive corrosion shown at 7:55 in the time line. Stop there and you will see the issue right in front of you. There may be other issues, this one just jumped out at me... Joe
as I change the mos fet´s and the batteries measure okay,, I do not think that is it.
👍
Hi @skynetcybersystem3tech
Thank You very much! glad you liked the video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
Mabie the battery has a brain that says it's time to quit. ?
But I want to fix it :-/
.....Cero point six volts????????? What a waste of time
Well I save this battery in my video this coming friday... not a total waste.
it wants to play games
Well It is winning for now..
Bad design
Well even if,, I did manage to get this battery back up and running in this video : czcams.com/video/Wx2lC6vsEjw/video.htmlsi=myQacyphdmcUlzqD
new PCB.
Why the annoying background music. It's wasn't necessary to have to watch you unbox the battery. Just get to the facts and quit wasting our time. I won't be following you for sure.
Aren't you a whining bitch :-) Why are you watching this video at all,, it clearly states that I failed fixing this battery,, and to be quite hornets,, you are properly not much help in that regard.
First 🎉
╱╱╱╱╱╱╭╮╱╭╮╭╮╱╱╱╱╱╱╱╱╱╭╮╱╱╱╱╱╱╱╱╭╮
╱╱╱╱╱╭╯╰┳╯╰┫┃╱╱╱╱╱╱╱╱╱┃┃╱╱╱╱╱╱╱╱┃┃
╭╮╭┳━┻╮╭┻╮╭┫╰━┳━━┳╮╭╮╭┫┃╭━━┳━╮╭━╯┣━━┳━╮
┃╰╯┃╭╮┃┃╱┃┃┃╭╮┃┃━┫╰╯╰╯┃┃┃╭╮┃╭╮┫╭╮┃╭╮┃╭╮╮
┃┃┃┃╭╮┃╰╮┃╰┫┃┃┃┃━╋╮╭╮╭┫╰┫╭╮┃┃┃┃╰╯┃╰╯┃┃┃┃
╰┻┻┻╯╰┻━╯╰━┻╯╰┻━━╯╰╯╰╯╰━┻╯╰┻╯╰┻━━┻━━┻╯╰╯
╭╮╭╮╭╮╱╱╱╱╱╱╭━━━╮
┃┃┃┃┃┃╱╱╱╱╱╱┃╭━╮┃
┃┃┃┃┃┣━━┳━━╮┃┃╱┃┣╮╭╮╭┳━━┳━━┳━━┳╮╭┳━━╮
┃╰╯╰╯┃╭╮┃━━┫┃╰━╯┃╰╯╰╯┃┃━┫━━┫╭╮┃╰╯┃┃━┫
╰╮╭╮╭┫╭╮┣━━┃┃╭━╮┣╮╭╮╭┫┃━╋━━┃╰╯┃┃┃┃┃━┫
╱╰╯╰╯╰╯╰┻━━╯╰╯╱╰╯╰╯╰╯╰━━┻━━┻━━┻┻┻┻━━╯
╱╱╱╱╱╱╱╱╭━━━┳━━┳━━━┳━━━┳━━━━╮
╱╱╱╱╱╱╱╱┃╭━━┻┫┣┫╭━╮┃╭━╮┃╭╮╭╮┃
╱╱╱╱╱╱╱╱┃╰━━╮┃┃┃╰━╯┃╰━━╋╯┃┃╰╯
╭━━╮╭━━╮┃╭━━╯┃┃┃╭╮╭┻━━╮┃╱┃┃╱╱╭━━╮╭━━╮
╰━━╯╰━━╯┃┃╱╱╭┫┣┫┃┃╰┫╰━╯┃╱┃┃╱╱╰━━╯╰━━╯
╱╱╱╱╱╱╱╱╰╯╱╱╰━━┻╯╰━┻━━━╯╱╰╯
first point of call is visual inspection of all components, you didn't take the board off the battery and inspect the underside, there might be a clue underneath, just something you missed.Did you smell the board for burnt components?
Reset button: I would leave for 10 seconds
Your turning on/off the mosfets with the voltage from the multimeter, thats how you test mosfets!!
zero reading: mosfet open current will flow
o.4 reading: voltage drop of o.4 volt meaning high resistance mosfet closed no current can flow, well tiny trickle.
Ok I just read all the comments, I dont think you mentioned the inside had got wet!!
Possibility the pins on the icu shorted and damaged the icu, if it wont reset I suspect new board is in order, its still a good battery pack since voltages were good, can use for other projects maybe. If can buy a new board that will solve it.
Just a note: I have a an irobot vacuum, their battery pack you cant read voltage on them, even when good, I'm not sure how it works but battery doesn't turn on until connected to the vacuum unit....I have no idea if ryobi have similar.
this guy fixes same one via q10
czcams.com/video/URrEqleJQ68/video.html
Hi @namenotshown9277
Thank You very much! that was a lot of info!! glad you liked the video :-)
Thank you for watching! :-)
didn't feel like alot of info, please let us know the outcome of your project@@MyPlayHouse