NOTE: This video is a little old as we started filming it near-on 2 years ago then kind of forgot about it, however, we felt it was too good to not release now right before another massive change in direction with the car happens for the upcoming season. If you have any questions about the cooling system pop them below and we'll get Andre on the case for you guys - Taz.
Very pleased you made specific mention of the need to manage airflow AFTER the cooler matrix - one of my triggers is when people fit bigger radiators because of overheating - then fit fan shrouds that block off most of the back, worse, sometimes they're so close fitting it chokes the airflow even more. There are easily sourced thin rubber sheets, with fabric re-inforcement, that can be used to form 'flapper' valves over cutouts in the shroud. These are flexible and move to allow air to pass through when the vehicle is in motion, yet when the fan is running and the vehicle stationary, or moving slowly, they are drawn onto the shroud, blocking the openings and forcing all the air to be pulled through the matrix before passing through the fan. You can see a similar setup on many OEM shrouds.
Another great video to start the day with in Germany accompanied by an espresso :-) Driving a BRZ now and then on the Nordschleife where I live, I can only dream of having so much tuning options. In Germany restrictions on tuning are a problem, every part needs to be Tuv approved. This makes the parts you can get very expensive. For instance, upgrading your brakes (discs and calipers) cost you around 3.500 US Dollars. Those exact same parts without Tuv (from the UK) cost 1.100 US Dollars.
Wow! That is something I was not aware of and it's no wonder the scene there is a bit more limited. If you wanted to run a track only car, are there many options when it comes to where you can race that are affordable or is that also very expensive? On the upside, new cars are a bit cheaper in Germany than here so while we have a good amount of freedom when it comes to modifications, most of the fleet on the road here in NZ are old pieces of crap anyway 😂 - Taz.
You can use a BMW E38 raidiator,it is a 2 in one with an oil cooler built in ,we run them on 600hp cars easily and for additional cooling we have the water spray on the radiator
Would turbine type wheels on the front help remove air from under the bonnet? I doubt they were conceived for that purpose but might help. Especially for the oil cooler. Anyway was just me left field idea 🙈. I look forward to seeing the new development with this car, good luck!
Hopefully the sequential solves a problem ;) Can you elaborate on the 'potential technical issue' with the -6 lines running to/from inlet/outlet side of the coolant system to an expansion tank? I have fitted something similar and yet to test it on the track. Thanks
Have you guys considered wrapping your exhaust manifold and running larger head dumps vents on the hood......and bring in heat wrapped intake to a single collector by the headlight?
What are your intake temps like with the short pod filter direct behind the radiator? It sounds brilliant on track though the gearbox noise coupled with the engine are on point. Lovely.
First thing i noticed. Desperately needs a bit of repositioning. Drawing in hot air cost power but also puts all the other temps up, apart from egt, as less energy is produced on each power stroke.
this does make sense theoretically for all areas of the power curve because the intake air temperature of the engine would definitely be a number of degrees cooler hence increasing the density of air charge which in conjunction with more fuel equals more power. More area under the curve= faster lap times
Mainly depends on how much heat soak the car is getting into the intake when the coolant temps are higher. If the intake was not heat-soaking before it wont make much of a difference even though there is still some residual heating from the block and other components where the air travels to.
There may actually be a small power increase as with a higher coolant temperature there is less delta T between the burning fuel charge and the cylinder walls, so more is available for expanding the gases. Many very competitive race series run their engines at higher temperatures, with high coolant pressures to raise the boiling point, for exactly that reason. The trick is to avoid heating the fuel/air charge before it enters the cylinder.
GordoWG1 WG1 Most of what I have read about race engines running extreme water temps (NASCAR in particular) is due to improving aerodynamics by reducing flow through the radiator. The high water temperature reduces power (due to high inlet and head temps reducing air charge density) but the aerodynamic benefit outweighs the power loss. On an engine that runs on lower octane fuel, power will likely be further reduced with high water temps due to having to reduce ignition advance and additional fuel enrichment to prevent knock.
@@99EclipseGSX Doh, you're right - aero' rules them all. Bit of a brain fart there - a very small potential power improvement is negligible compared to the lower drag and/or more efficient downforce. Heck, could be a power loss and it'd still be worth the trade-off.
You mentioned a diff cooler, because your diff temps were higher than you would like, and i saw you had an aftermarket diff cover on your diff. Sometimes the diff cover can be the cause of the increased temps, especially in the aftermarket range. Robbing you of lubrication, cooling ability and horse power. Gail banks has a series of videos on this topic explaining the ins and outs of it. here is a link to just one of them. czcams.com/video/vdtmDl5EDJ8/video.html Can't hurt to take a look. like your project heaps. Regards Doug
Hey Doug, yes we fitted this as part of the solution and did address Gale's content on this as well in relation to our own setup here: czcams.com/video/PE3NbjPEO_U/video.html Really appreciate you thinking of us and sending that through too mate, legend 😎 - Taz.
Fuel lines to go from the secondary tank to the primary. We will fill from the secondary so nice bit lines to filter on down to the rest of the system - Taz.
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![Mounting 650HP SR20VET In The GT86 | SR86 EP 1 [#BUILD]](/img/tr.png)
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NOTE: This video is a little old as we started filming it near-on 2 years ago then kind of forgot about it, however, we felt it was too good to not release now right before another massive change in direction with the car happens for the upcoming season. If you have any questions about the cooling system pop them below and we'll get Andre on the case for you guys - Taz.
How’d you end up venting the hot air out of the engine bay? I need to know the details so I can do the same
@@Earache. one awsome way is to raise the bonnet from behind...
@@Earache. by adding washers
Dhaval Dedhia anything to keep me away from hood vents lol they’re useful but I don’t appreciate the look
@@Earache. raise the bonnet itself... Let me try get a link of what I mean
Very pleased you made specific mention of the need to manage airflow AFTER the cooler matrix - one of my triggers is when people fit bigger radiators because of overheating - then fit fan shrouds that block off most of the back, worse, sometimes they're so close fitting it chokes the airflow even more.
There are easily sourced thin rubber sheets, with fabric re-inforcement, that can be used to form 'flapper' valves over cutouts in the shroud. These are flexible and move to allow air to pass through when the vehicle is in motion, yet when the fan is running and the vehicle stationary, or moving slowly, they are drawn onto the shroud, blocking the openings and forcing all the air to be pulled through the matrix before passing through the fan. You can see a similar setup on many OEM shrouds.
Sounds so much better having an actual Toyota motor under the hood and a good one at that!
Another great video to start the day with in Germany accompanied by an espresso :-)
Driving a BRZ now and then on the Nordschleife where I live, I can only dream of having so much tuning options.
In Germany restrictions on tuning are a problem, every part needs to be Tuv approved.
This makes the parts you can get very expensive.
For instance, upgrading your brakes (discs and calipers) cost you around 3.500 US Dollars.
Those exact same parts without Tuv (from the UK) cost 1.100 US Dollars.
Wow! That is something I was not aware of and it's no wonder the scene there is a bit more limited. If you wanted to run a track only car, are there many options when it comes to where you can race that are affordable or is that also very expensive?
On the upside, new cars are a bit cheaper in Germany than here so while we have a good amount of freedom when it comes to modifications, most of the fleet on the road here in NZ are old pieces of crap anyway 😂 - Taz.
You can use a BMW E38 raidiator,it is a 2 in one with an oil cooler built in ,we run them on 600hp cars easily and for additional cooling we have the water spray on the radiator
So the cause of overheating was the air "stacking" rather than flowing through the rad?
Would turbine type wheels on the front help remove air from under the bonnet? I doubt they were conceived for that purpose but might help. Especially for the oil cooler. Anyway was just me left field idea 🙈.
I look forward to seeing the new development with this car, good luck!
Hopefully the sequential solves a problem ;) Can you elaborate on the 'potential technical issue' with the -6 lines running to/from inlet/outlet side of the coolant system to an expansion tank? I have fitted something similar and yet to test it on the track. Thanks
Have you guys considered wrapping your exhaust manifold and running larger head dumps vents on the hood......and bring in heat wrapped intake to a single collector by the headlight?
What are your intake temps like with the short pod filter direct behind the radiator?
It sounds brilliant on track though the gearbox noise coupled with the engine are on point. Lovely.
Till that rear housing cracks on the gearbox
First thing i noticed. Desperately needs a bit of repositioning. Drawing in hot air cost power but also puts all the other temps up, apart from egt, as less energy is produced on each power stroke.
I’m curious with such a massive reduction in water temp if you could see a power increase reflected in top speeds reached on the straights?
this does make sense theoretically for all areas of the power curve because the intake air temperature of the engine would definitely be a number of degrees cooler hence increasing the density of air charge which in conjunction with more fuel equals more power. More area under the curve= faster lap times
Mainly depends on how much heat soak the car is getting into the intake when the coolant temps are higher. If the intake was not heat-soaking before it wont make much of a difference even though there is still some residual heating from the block and other components where the air travels to.
There may actually be a small power increase as with a higher coolant temperature there is less delta T between the burning fuel charge and the cylinder walls, so more is available for expanding the gases.
Many very competitive race series run their engines at higher temperatures, with high coolant pressures to raise the boiling point, for exactly that reason.
The trick is to avoid heating the fuel/air charge before it enters the cylinder.
GordoWG1 WG1 Most of what I have read about race engines running extreme water temps (NASCAR in particular) is due to improving aerodynamics by reducing flow through the radiator. The high water temperature reduces power (due to high inlet and head temps reducing air charge density) but the aerodynamic benefit outweighs the power loss. On an engine that runs on lower octane fuel, power will likely be further reduced with high water temps due to having to reduce ignition advance and additional fuel enrichment to prevent knock.
@@99EclipseGSX Doh, you're right - aero' rules them all. Bit of a brain fart there - a very small potential power improvement is negligible compared to the lower drag and/or more efficient downforce. Heck, could be a power loss and it'd still be worth the trade-off.
Just wondering if you guys considered fitting an electric water pump for cooler coolant temperatures?
Are there no aftermarket Electric Water pumps for the 1UZ-FE ?
There are universal water pumps that could be adapted but the actual 1UZ pump has proven to be more than adequate in these engines, even at 8500+ rpm
You mentioned a diff cooler, because your diff temps were higher than you would like, and i saw you had an aftermarket diff cover on your diff. Sometimes the diff cover can be the cause of the increased temps, especially in the aftermarket range. Robbing you of lubrication, cooling ability and horse power. Gail banks has a series of videos on this topic explaining the ins and outs of it. here is a link to just one of them. czcams.com/video/vdtmDl5EDJ8/video.html Can't hurt to take a look. like your project heaps.
Regards
Doug
Hey Doug, yes we fitted this as part of the solution and did address Gale's content on this as well in relation to our own setup here: czcams.com/video/PE3NbjPEO_U/video.html
Really appreciate you thinking of us and sending that through too mate, legend 😎 - Taz.
What are those 3 large hoses under the R/S of the floor?
Fuel lines to go from the secondary tank to the primary. We will fill from the secondary so nice bit lines to filter on down to the rest of the system - Taz.
Not into rice burners, but thats a smart looking body shell
Have you ever tried electric water pumps?
How many horse power is this car?
I better be the first #notificationgang
Nailed it - Taz.
What intake is that on the 1uzfe
It's off an LS - Taz.