Most Expensive Overbuilt Welding Cart on YouTube
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- Earlier this month you watched us repair a Miller CP-300 we picked up at auction - now watch us build a cart that's worthy of it! A welder like this deserves better than the dinky little thing we were rolling it around on, so us being us we went WAY over the top and made something much heavier duty than was even necessary, and had a lot of fun doing it. Hope you enjoy watching it come together!
This is a close second. Westweld, that guy's cart takes the win. It is just bonkers, if youve never seen it. His videos have gotten exceptionally rare these days and there are not a lot to begin with. But the channel is solid gold and well worth the watch!
Yeah I like west welds channel too
I dont think i heard a single word you said for the first 5 minutes because i couldn't stop staring at that Fireball vise!
lol it’s a good one
Its grossly overbuilt!
I love it!??
Appreciate it
Don’t be afraid to put more pressure on that chop saw. Taking bigger chips will help the life of the carbide teeth, not hurt it. Over the 10 years I’ve used mine, I consistently get significantly better life by leaning on it pretty good. Form engagement and pressure. In fact, I ruined the first 2 blades I had because I was cutting 2” box tubing and was “bouncing” it off the initial flat part of the cut. It was chipping the teeth really quickly. I called the tool rep and that’s what he said. I was skeptical but he was right.
Good to know thank you
I'm sure the arbor press being pink gives it +500kg extra force or something. Great build man really apreciate your honesty in showing everything including the mistakes (which you are very hard on yourself btw i'm not a welder but people all over the internet say how hard it is to build something like this and have no warping, and you only measured 60 thou which over a meter long welding cart is honestly nothing in my rather uninformed opinion). Cheers.
Thanks for the kind words
I just want to say that your work method, and observations when tig welding, are nearly identical to whatvi dealt with when i started tig. Im self taught as well. So far, you're doing great in my opinion.
Awe thanks
I like that you also explain your thought process. EDIT: I also like the color on your arbor press. Not a boring color like red/blue/gray/etc. :)
Thanks
Your cart looks great, and only needing 20# to pull it is the best part.
The last shop I worked it had a rolling cart/stand that they stored three 12" lathe chucks on when not needed, it had polyurethane caster under it, well with 3 big checks setting on it all the time they had big flats from setting. We pulled the casters apart and took some 6" pipe and pressed the wheels into the pipe and put them back together, no more flats and No chips working into the tires . looking forward to your next project.
Good idea with the casters. Thank you
I’d like to see you do a whole video on the radial drill called “will it drill?” The whole episode you just chuck up stuff and see if it’ll drill. Like a train spike, plumb bob, screwdrivers etc.
P. S. Flow drilling counts
I’m jealous of that thing
Great idea.
If I someday become half as good as you are, it would be a dream come true!
I think you are werry good at explaining things even for a moron like me to understand the most of the steps.
I have OCD like you, but it takes more than 3-4 tryies to get there, sometimes impossible.
Keep up the good work!
Love from Sweden! ❤
Awe thank you.
💪🌴☀️Happy Saturday!
Same to you
I enjoyed all your videos, but this one is my favorite so far. Thanks.
Good to hear
Real shame it didn't roll so good as the old one
Old one was missing two tanks. Probably roll about same if it was apple to apple comparison with 300ish pounds of extra tanks on old one.
Built for many life time uses. This shiny cart rolls!!!
Indeed
1:30:40 ... I do not have a picture because it's in storage, but when i have two bottles (ike this) side by side .. I put a fitted wooden block between them. Just cut up a 10' X 8' From a Wood log (just 15" or 18" tall) ...
And cyr the radius of the TANK's size ... into each side of the block :)
I can't remember when're .... I saw it somewhere I didn't invent it. But it REALLY makes the tanks more stable, and they don't "clank" together :)
Good idea Mike
Love that you used Stainless for this Build. I love the Design also. I’m gonna tell you why you Filet Welds turned out so much nicer as far as the Color.
You’re correct that tightening up your Arc Profile did help, but the main thing is, they were Filet Welds which means you had a Wall on each side to help trap the Gas and provide much better Gas Coverage for longer. Your Cup size was way too small for the Butt Welds, that’s why I turned Gray on you. They were just on the verge of “Sugaring” on you due to lack of Gas Coverage. That #8 Cup was your nemesis. Personally I would have went with #14 Mooseknuckle on that job, but at a bare minimum a #10 would’ve gave you better color. If you prefer the Glass Cups. You can get those in a Fupa #12 & #13 in Glass from Michael Furicks website or Weldmonger also. For someone who hasn’t performed any Tig Welding in a long while, you did damn good imho, and that’s coming from a Welder/Fabricator. I could tell your Welding got better ever bead you did. The more you welded the better your Beads looked. The only other thing I would suggest is at the end of each Bead don’t pull away until your Post Flow has completely shut off. That’s a very good habit to get into, especially with Stainless.
Stainless is one of the most problematic Metals for some people in Tig.
Well Nevermind I was making this comment on my phone while watching the Video on my TV, and now I see that you got yourself properly equipped from Jody at Weldmonger.
Great Choice!
You are set now.
Yeah love those kits from Jody. Thanks for the tip
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair I buy all my Tig stuff from him and Michael Furick.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepairOverbuilt is the way! I am a firm believer in this Theory.
You can fab your own wheels too if you have a ring roller. Better and far cheaper than any steel or iron wheel you can buy.
I have a ring roller it’s faster to buy the wheels trust me lol. The wheels were 30$ plus cast is cooler than fabricated.
I think the best handle design for welding carts is made out of bent steel tubing (40mm in diameter approximately with long open curves to be ergonomic), and coated with trivalent chrome or hard chrome, and is actually very tall before angling forward and crossing over. For example, the top of the handle would be in line with the top of the wire feeder. A tall handle allows grabbing from either side or from the top. Square tubing in front is used for a gun holster or TIG rod storage bracket. I think square tubing is very hard on the hands when used as a handle.
For cast iron wheels you have the option to use tapered bearings with the race(s) pressed in and then preload the bearings using a nut with jam nut lock. Although you do have a lathe so you could make your own sintered bushings which if used on a hardened shaft would roll as good as the bearings and be self lubricating.
The best rear stationary wheel location is in board with the bottom frame acting as an outer bumper (smooth with nothing to catch or grab). The wheel shaft is never in single shear, like in the video, the shaft should be supported on both ends. The front casters should also be inboard so as to not go outside the periphery of the cart when the cart is moved.
Another good feature is a foot actuated cart locking brake. The most inexpensive I have found is using components from Harbor Freight like a hydraulic jacking cylinder with foot pressure release. A front jacking foot (bar with neoprene pad) just needs to lift the front casters off the ground. This serves two purposes, the first is the cart is locked in place and the second is the weight is removed from the casters. I like a locking bar over locking casters because it is sometimes difficult to set the caster brake if the caster is pointing in the wrong direction.
👍
WOW what a super nice setup you've got there. I need a cart that goes up and down steps fairly easily....like a 2 wheel dolly pulled up steps backwards. Then can be sat back down on all 4 wheels/casters on flat surfaces. The inverter welder is under 50 lbs with full 10 lb flux spools loaded and rarely will need gas onboard. Any suggestion or plans would be appreciated.
Hmm yeah that’s tough they do make stair climbing dollies. 3 wheels per side
I like to overbuild/buy everthing too. But over a 1000 pounds is insane. Will never break though! Maybe some wheels that produce less noise when rolling? Nice video, great attitude!
It’s crazy right now
Very good work, I am impressed.
Thanks
Never forget the ABCs of welding, especially TIG - Always Be Comfortable. When I went to TIG welding school at Lincoln, we started on stainless. The philosophy was that if we can do that well, doing carbon steel would be a piece of cake. The contact tip to work distance has to be really tight for stainless.
The real world is not comfortable. 99% of the time you’re welding in some jacked twisted contorted spot with a harness yanking against you while hanging off the side of scaffold or a ladder. Being comfortable is for guys working on welding table in shop.
@@EliAngwin sucks to be you. 😂
Yep true which is me
@@EliAngwinit's unlikely you'd be tig welding hanging off the side of scaffolding or a ladder 🙄
@@jameshussey4900 sure could be if you are laying in the root on pipe in a power plant or refinery, doing a in situ repair on something
1:50 THAT is one of my sayings .. Just use steel casters, they are going to TURN INTO steel anyway! :)
lol true
Great build!! You should put a makers mark on there and date since that cart will probably out live us lol...
lol probably
Did you change the front casters? I may have missed you speaking about that…. Seems like if you put the stub axles under the frame rather than through it you could eliminate some of that rake. Maybe the rake is the reason you went with smaller casters upfront? Anyway, good job. I like over designed!
Yeah I did stubs in rear to keep cart more level. And might have neglected showing mounting the front casters or modifying them but I did disassemble them and make adjustments you can tell the color of them changed from silver to black
free tip place a section of angeliron at each end of your weld as a start and stop run pn and ff give it a try somewhen
Good tip for mild steel but not as helpful for tig like this
The angle the whip comes out of the feeder is adjustable. Probably a nob on the back so you can turn it up or down.
Really did not know that
Your camera deserves a welding helmet 😀 That was crazy bright.
True
Nice work! One concern though; typically needle roller bearings require a hardened shaft. You may get lucky and the 304SS you chose for the stub shafts will work harden. Just in case, consider keeping a lookout for galling on those interfaces.
Good point there
WOW NICE WORK.✌✌👍👍
Appreciate it
A masterpiece!
Thank you
You really need to prop that torch hand to keep it as sturdy as possible and always clean the metal with a stripping disk then acetone and they’ll be way better!
Thanks
😮😮😮 CHANGE Gauges ON REG OR LEARN THE CONVERSION
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Definitely looks like you were too cold in some of the welds. If you can’t move that puddle along on stainless you will cook it by sitting there playing catch-up. Jam the pedal and run. Your filler looks a bit heavy too. That’ll hurt you on stainless because it’ll cool the pool too much when you add. I always use the smallest possible filler especially with stainless. Might be the camera though hard to judge the filler size. Great job man always enjoy your stuff.
Cool thanks for the tips explains why my autogenous welds were the best
in the 29:25 you show the weld super good haha. do you have a second welding mask to put in front of the camera? maybe if you do that we can see better hehe.
nice video man, love your channel 🙌🏻 first comment I think
No I don’t thanks
Great job! I'm sure in future projects you will show it being moved. Proof of concept?
Yeah for sure
Great build Kyle although I wouldn't like to have to pay for a cart like that, like they say else where on CZcams "nothing too strong ever broke".
Agreed
Curiosity got the better of me what sort of shoe / boots are you wearing? Great work on cart
Redwing waterproof boots flexible ceramic toe. Not sure the exact model
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair where are the sole protectors from that look like they are straped to boot ?
Great video. What are those things on your shoes?
Help keep my feet from hurting they are just foam pads
too hard on yourself. Stainless is hard , weld look just fine.
Thank you
Hmmm, i don't like it. Looks like grocery shopping cart. Square handle also is not best idea.
Fair enough!
Handle is very comfortable by the way
its a cart for a welder it doesn't have to look good (which to me it does, it is entirely subjective anyways)