I must be one of the few people that has had trouble with Drosera capensis. Drosera binata has been a bit more bullet-proof for me. And yes they do need really good light. (I usually use a grow light indoors). I'm a Nepenthes fan myself and have had good luck with Nepenthes alata and to a lesser extent N. ventricosa. All the Nepenthes I've tried seem to be a lot less light hungry than Drosera or VFTs. I'm thinking of suggesting the N. alata X N. ventricosa hybrid to my stepmother who is new to carnivorous plants. :)
I've had weird sorta half-success with capensis, and I absolutely murder VFT's without knowing why. Somehow Sarrs and various sundews do awesome in the same environment.
@@hypnolobster I had my VFTs under HPS lights for years and years. Only DI water for them. Kept them wet, threw them in the fridge once in a while for dormancy and they were not super vigorous but happy enough. Then I put them outside and my kid decided to pee in their tray, multiple times. :p
The VFTs and Drosera definitely need more light than Nepenthes to do well. Sometimes capensis won’t do well if it doesn’t experience a night time drop in temperatures (by 10-20 degrees). Plants can be tricky, sometimes you do everything right and they just refuse to cooperate though!
Indoors you can Nepenthes and sundews really happily! Outdoors you’ll want to grow your VFTs and Sarracenia in full morning sun and sitting distilled water all the time.
I got a monkey cup from the plant shop thay said it’s super easy just hang it by any window but I’ve noticed it’s drying up there is no SAP in the cup itself and some of the pictures are going black
It’s normal for the pitchers to dry out when the plant is first acclimating to its new home. You can add a little distilled water to the pitchers to help keep them from drying out. The pitchers are just modified leaves and they will naturally die back with time or stress. As long as your plant is getting lots of light, it will adjust out to its new environment and start growing new traps!
@@California_Carnivores thank you! I have 2 sundews and one had flower earlier and seems like dropped some seeds into the same pot when I cut off the flower stem. Now I have few babies around the parent plant. And another one is now developing flower buds. I'll try that method you explained here to collect them better 😁👍
Classically, they will grow rather small if they’re getting too much light but they can have nice color. They can also have crispy, burned teeth on almost all of the traps. Or, the young traps can burn before they open. In your area, it’s definitely possible that the combo of hot and dry is a little severe for them. You can try shading them with a 30% shade cloth, moving them to full morning sun but protection from the worst of the afternoon sun or even growing them under lights just for the summer!
They generally prefer to be outdoors but can be grown indoors with lots of special care. They usually require a grow light as they are full sun plants and will need to be supplementally fed as well!
Quick question, I have a Nepenthes Ventrata and a Nepenthes Rebecca Soper. It's turning winter here in Lithuania so there will only be about 7-8 hours of sunlight a day for the next 3 months. Will this be too little sunlight for them and will I need a grow light? Or can it still function perfectly fine with that much light? Thank you!
I'll never understand why ppl that work in nurseries, gardeners, farmers etc always use the "x-y full hours of sun" measure. It's so subjective really and difficult to achieve when broken down using a metric like "direct sun" because in reality the directness of the sun is not a metric the plant uses. The plant needs light/sun. It doesn't need to be direct or even intense per se. What it needs is a certain amount of moles per 24 hours, this intensity when referring to light is called ppfd. This can be achieved for example with varying intensities of light in different time cycles. I would personally rather know the DLI of a plant. The DLI is the daily light index. It's used allot in cananbis since cannabis requires a dark period, but also it requires a higher DLI over that shorter period while flowering for optimal results. In other words the vegetative phase of that plant you could use a lower intensity light because you can keep the light on 18-24 hours in that phase. When flowering tho you need to have 12 hours of dak but the DLI requirements increase also so you need to now crank that light up way way higher to meet the new higher DLI over an even shorter time period. I digressed there but it hought it's a good way to understand how DLI is useful. While the flowering and dark period part doesn't apply to most plants the DLI is a measure that applies to the light needs of a specific plant. So if say a cucumber has a DLI of cucumber is 30 what you would now need is the ppfd(light intensity) of the window or space and then you can use a DLI chart to see how many hours the plant needs at that ppfd to meet a DLI of 30. First of all the ppfd for direct sun is a wide range in and of itself. It's 900-1500 ppfd and on a DLI chart that is hours worth of difference in what a plant need exposure wise between 900ppfd and 1500ppfd. But more to the point is you can also maybe grow your cucumber at 700ppfd, well below the direct sun range, but still grow effectively as direct sun if it gets that 700 long enough. Or more specifically if the 700ppfd on the chart can achieve the 30 DLI a cucumber needs in the hours of daylight you have on said windowsill. The drawback of DLI for average ppl is you need to measure the ppfd so you need a device that measure it. But every nursery, farmer and even avid gardener should have one imho. This way you aren't guessing you can literally measure the light intensity of different locations both inside and outside and know for certain what can grow there. The device is called a par meter. You could use cheap devices that measure lumens and convert but it's not really that accurate or at minimum you would need to create your own lumen baseline for direct sun when compared to the PAR of direct sun in that same spot and then keep that ratio at whatever the actual lumen value of a spot is
Thanks for the info ☺️ As horticulturists, we work with the natural patterns of the sun, and many of our plants grow best outdoors, in natural light. If you are interested in this kind of research, go check out Carnivero, as Drew Martinez is an expert in light and has excellent information on his website!
Within my small collection, all are indoors on a windowsill (east facing; will be adding supplemental grow lights soon). All are in individual glass cookie jar/mason jar style terrarium that hold humidity around 65-90 percent based on species. Drosera graomogolensis, the Mexican pings, and cephalotus are the ones doing best. Oddly enough, drosera slackii from California carnivores is not doing the best. Same conditions as D. hamiltonii and graomogolensis...very odd!
So informative to a complete novice! Love your passion for what you do, too. Infectious joy. Thanks so much.
Capensis is my favorite CP.I was so excited to learn it was the easiest of them all
I just got a pitcher plant from you guys. Can’t wait to start taking care of it!
Thank you for the order!
Are you going to make a hardest carnivorous plants to grow?
I love that idea!
Loved this video... 100% understood... now I’m getting a cape sundew
I have a bunch of ventrata x alata and burkeii, love them
Just the video this beginner is looking for, Thanks !
Can't wait for my plants from CC!
I love your hair!
This was helpful as I’m trying to decide which are best for my house. Thank you 👍
daniela: how many plants move
me: all of them
New goal is to grab the top 3 on the list and name each after a Powerpuff Girl 🥰
Love the Cape Sundew, but it is deemed a noxious weed in New Zealand.
It can definitely spread through your collection like crazy!
I recommend the red version of drosera capensis
Oh wow I just seen u on TikTok lol that's why I'm here
Top 5 Plants:
5) Nepenthes ventrata x Alata
4) Pinguicula Emerginata
3) Nepenthes Ventricosa
2) Pinguicula Laueana "red"
1) Drosera capensis "Cape Sundew"
Lifesaver *found**
I must be one of the few people that has had trouble with Drosera capensis. Drosera binata has been a bit more bullet-proof for me. And yes they do need really good light. (I usually use a grow light indoors). I'm a Nepenthes fan myself and have had good luck with Nepenthes alata and to a lesser extent N. ventricosa. All the Nepenthes I've tried seem to be a lot less light hungry than Drosera or VFTs. I'm thinking of suggesting the N. alata X N. ventricosa hybrid to my stepmother who is new to carnivorous plants. :)
I've had weird sorta half-success with capensis, and I absolutely murder VFT's without knowing why. Somehow Sarrs and various sundews do awesome in the same environment.
@@hypnolobster I had my VFTs under HPS lights for years and years. Only DI water for them. Kept them wet, threw them in the fridge once in a while for dormancy and they were not super vigorous but happy enough. Then I put them outside and my kid decided to pee in their tray, multiple times. :p
The VFTs and Drosera definitely need more light than Nepenthes to do well. Sometimes capensis won’t do well if it doesn’t experience a night time drop in temperatures (by 10-20 degrees). Plants can be tricky, sometimes you do everything right and they just refuse to cooperate though!
Binata does better for cold and cape is better for heat.
should i grow b52 vfts, big pink sundews, nepenthes, or pale pitcher plant?(I live In League city, TX)
Indoors you can Nepenthes and sundews really happily! Outdoors you’ll want to grow your VFTs and Sarracenia in full morning sun and sitting distilled water all the time.
I got a monkey cup from the plant shop thay said it’s super easy just hang it by any window but I’ve noticed it’s drying up there is no SAP in the cup itself and some of the pictures are going black
It’s normal for the pitchers to dry out when the plant is first acclimating to its new home. You can add a little distilled water to the pitchers to help keep them from drying out. The pitchers are just modified leaves and they will naturally die back with time or stress. As long as your plant is getting lots of light, it will adjust out to its new environment and start growing new traps!
How can i collect those seed from cape sundew??
We wait for the flowers to turn all the way black and then tap them out into a folded piece of paper. They’ll produce soooo many seeds.
@@California_Carnivores
thank you!
I have 2 sundews and one had flower earlier and seems like dropped some seeds into the same pot when I cut off the flower stem.
Now I have few babies around the parent plant.
And another one is now developing flower buds.
I'll try that method you explained here to collect them better 😁👍
I live in northern utah. Trying to grow fly traps outside. I'm thinking they're getting too much sun. How can I know for sure?
Classically, they will grow rather small if they’re getting too much light but they can have nice color. They can also have crispy, burned teeth on almost all of the traps. Or, the young traps can burn before they open. In your area, it’s definitely possible that the combo of hot and dry is a little severe for them. You can try shading them with a 30% shade cloth, moving them to full morning sun but protection from the worst of the afternoon sun or even growing them under lights just for the summer!
@@California_Carnivores thanks. Yeah some of the new traps have burnt off. I've been misting them several times a day
I want something that’ll eat the bugs in my basement.
Carnivorous plants generally need lots of light so you will need a grow light if your basement does not have a lot of natural light.
So a Venus flytrap wouldn’t be a good indoor plant??
They generally prefer to be outdoors but can be grown indoors with lots of special care. They usually require a grow light as they are full sun plants and will need to be supplementally fed as well!
Will grow lights work?
Yes!
Quick question, I have a Nepenthes Ventrata and a Nepenthes Rebecca Soper. It's turning winter here in Lithuania so there will only be about 7-8 hours of sunlight a day for the next 3 months. Will this be too little sunlight for them and will I need a grow light? Or can it still function perfectly fine with that much light?
Thank you!
They can function with that amount of light! They often slow down for the winter and as long as they have 4-6 hours of direct light during this time
@@California_Carnivores ah thats a relief :) thank you!
Can we grow these indoors under grow lights? Like red, blue, and white LED grow lights?
Yes, they will do well under LEDs
Can you prune Nepenthes to maintain a compact size?
Nepenthes are by nature vines so they will always have a vining habit. You can trim them back, especially if your plant is growing basal shoots.
I'll never understand why ppl that work in nurseries, gardeners, farmers etc always use the "x-y full hours of sun" measure. It's so subjective really and difficult to achieve when broken down using a metric like "direct sun" because in reality the directness of the sun is not a metric the plant uses. The plant needs light/sun. It doesn't need to be direct or even intense per se. What it needs is a certain amount of moles per 24 hours, this intensity when referring to light is called ppfd. This can be achieved for example with varying intensities of light in different time cycles. I would personally rather know the DLI of a plant. The DLI is the daily light index. It's used allot in cananbis since cannabis requires a dark period, but also it requires a higher DLI over that shorter period while flowering for optimal results. In other words the vegetative phase of that plant you could use a lower intensity light because you can keep the light on 18-24 hours in that phase. When flowering tho you need to have 12 hours of dak but the DLI requirements increase also so you need to now crank that light up way way higher to meet the new higher DLI over an even shorter time period. I digressed there but it hought it's a good way to understand how DLI is useful. While the flowering and dark period part doesn't apply to most plants the DLI is a measure that applies to the light needs of a specific plant. So if say a cucumber has a DLI of cucumber is 30 what you would now need is the ppfd(light intensity) of the window or space and then you can use a DLI chart to see how many hours the plant needs at that ppfd to meet a DLI of 30. First of all the ppfd for direct sun is a wide range in and of itself. It's 900-1500 ppfd and on a DLI chart that is hours worth of difference in what a plant need exposure wise between 900ppfd and 1500ppfd. But more to the point is you can also maybe grow your cucumber at 700ppfd, well below the direct sun range, but still grow effectively as direct sun if it gets that 700 long enough. Or more specifically if the 700ppfd on the chart can achieve the 30 DLI a cucumber needs in the hours of daylight you have on said windowsill.
The drawback of DLI for average ppl is you need to measure the ppfd so you need a device that measure it. But every nursery, farmer and even avid gardener should have one imho. This way you aren't guessing you can literally measure the light intensity of different locations both inside and outside and know for certain what can grow there. The device is called a par meter. You could use cheap devices that measure lumens and convert but it's not really that accurate or at minimum you would need to create your own lumen baseline for direct sun when compared to the PAR of direct sun in that same spot and then keep that ratio at whatever the actual lumen value of a spot is
Thanks for the info ☺️ As horticulturists, we work with the natural patterns of the sun, and many of our plants grow best outdoors, in natural light. If you are interested in this kind of research, go check out Carnivero, as Drew Martinez is an expert in light and has excellent information on his website!
Within my small collection, all are indoors on a windowsill (east facing; will be adding supplemental grow lights soon). All are in individual glass cookie jar/mason jar style terrarium that hold humidity around 65-90 percent based on species. Drosera graomogolensis, the Mexican pings, and cephalotus are the ones doing best. Oddly enough, drosera slackii from California carnivores is not doing the best. Same conditions as D. hamiltonii and graomogolensis...very odd!
That is odd - it should be happy where hamiltonii is happy. The increased light may also help it.
I want a ping im just not sure which one. Definitely one that can stay indoors and no more than $20. For now……
The laueana CalCarn Red is great!
Where can I order these online ? Can I plant one from seed ? Lol
We don’t sell seeds but you can order plants on our website www.californiacarnivores.com