2000 Ford 7.3L Exhaust Back Pressure Valve Quick Fix and Exhaust Brake Mod.
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- čas přidán 14. 12. 2018
- This should be the same for all 7.3L diesels. splice onto the beige wire facing the connector. use a switch to send 12V to the EBP sensor to turn on the exhaust back pressure valve.
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Took me forever to find that connector!!! Yours is the best video I could find showing it’s location. Thank you!
Haha thanks man, good luck with it.
I can't find this sensor for anything
I finished mine, it works great thank you. I will say though it was pretty hard getting the ebpv plug, plugged back in though.
Very helpful video, thanks!
Homemade exhaust break from factory parts. Cool man
Very good video bro you always need a little help to stop thos 7.3 same as all the diesel don't pass high rpms and everything Good
Have any idea what backpressure psi it’s running? I know there’s kits that mount on the back of the turbo or in the exhaust and they said you want to adjust it to 40 psi max for the 7.3, any psi less than that is totally fine for the motor, any more it potentially can damage from what I heard.. thanks for the video! That’s a great idea!
Sorry no idea.
If your talking about setting the Vaccume operated turbo bypass valve I can tell you that if its set to not open, the truck performs shittyer anyway
@@blackmasta71 gotcha, naw apparently the pressure that the valve holds back in the engine against the turbo “has to” be less than 40 psi. I’ll probably go with deleting it with a new pedestal when I get the kc turbo stage 2 kit and get a bd performance Jake, planning on getting a gear vendors 2 speed gear splitter so I’ll have a double OD too 🤘🏼it’ll be just like an 18 speed Eaton fuller in my dump truck but instead a “12 speed” zf6 😅
@@Jaredcs199 sounds narley. Better make some youtube vids of that thing
I have an early 99 f-250 I don’t have that hooked up will it keep my truck from starting?
No it will not. You will get an engine code for the sensor but thats about it.
By having it unplugged, the flap will not engage when the engines starting up.
A better way to go would be a 6 position chip with a high idle tune.
Do I have it right,unplug it to disable the ebpv and that will keep the flapper open in the exhaust to avoid it from closing causing lack of power on cold mornings?Thanks.
Yep youve got it. Just unplug it if your having problems with it.
@@blackmasta71 Appreciate the comeback! I bought a school bus with the t444e, only on cold mornings if I take off before warm,it lacks power,then all of the sudden it takes off and is fine after that. I never had issues over the summer just recently because it usually sits over the winter(rv) use only but I needed to take it on a winter morning to get new tires. Thanks for all your help.
@@bobfidguello7239 np mate.
If you wish to delete the EBPV completely, I can provide a link to a china kit you can order. I did it on my truck and I am still running it years later.
Its a good mod to do when you do a turbo rebuild. It allows more air to flow and less restriction.
@@blackmasta71 I only saw a video on someone deleting a 7.3 that was a 1997 model year,mine is a 2001 t444e and wasn't sure if it could be deleted as well because of the computer. I'm new to these engines so not sure what can or cannot be done.
@@bobfidguello7239 It can be. Its a cheap mod but hard to do since the turbo bolts are 12 point and very rusty. Thats why I recommend only bothering with it once the turbo needs rebuilt. Which the rebuild kit is as cheap as 60 bucks.
So, there is a solenoid that actuates a valve to move the plunger rod?
Yes something like that. Sending 12v to the solenoid activates the Backpressure vavle but the valve will only come on if the adiquate oil pressure is there. Like if the truck is real cold the valve wont come on right away or not until you rev the truck a bit and it will kick in.
Great video. Question though, so you pretty much only want the back pressure valve on during colds starts and lower rpm’s after cold starts, right?
Yes it was designed to make the engine work a bit while idling causing it yo build heat faster.
Over time the automatic actuator starts to fail and it turns it on while your driving.
This just shows a way to manually control it.
@@blackmasta71 thank you, I will probably install a switch, my truck has automatically closed the valve many times when I am just driving.
@@mr.turtle2728 or if you do not plan on using it at all just unplug it and use a fast idle stick between the seat and throttle pedal ;)
A 6 position tunerchip with a high idle setting is best.
@@blackmasta71 I had started this project, but I’m not exactly sure how you set up your switch. How I understand it, you spliced the beige wire to the first wire that runs to the switch and the other wire that runs to the switch is directly connected to the positive side of the battery, correct?
Edit: the black wire is left alone and not to be messed, right?
@@mr.turtle2728 correct.
I would put a 10amp fuse in my 12v power on the battery just to be safe.
In my case I stole 12v from a fuse in the fuse box under the dash that came on with the key.
You can even order these adapters off amazon that are called add a fuse.
So what you got a 2 wire toggle switch and connected one of the wires straight to the battery I take it as well
Yep pretty much, instead of running right back to the battery, i just went to the fuse panel under the dash.
You can buy whats called "Add a fuse" and hook up another fuse and wire off an existing fuse in your fuse panel.
Or do it really dirty and just quish your switch wire in with an existing fuse in the fuse panel. ;)
And another question I am tired of hearing it open and close when driving randomly the ebpv so now if I do this it won't kill my motor and it also will stop it kicking on randomly correct it should only kick on when I want it to kick on
@@dylansheridan9254 exactly it will only come on when you flick the switch.
@@dylansheridan9254 or leave the connector unplugged and it wont come on at all
So the tag end of the bage wire gets capped?
Yep the beige wire from the harness that runs back to the ecu is capped off and not used now.
One wires to the switch? Juste to turn ans off?
Yes sir
Hi mate you have a new subscriber 👍👍 from Norway 🇳🇴 😊 I have a Ford excursion 7.3 and today happened something strange 🤔 like other times I waiting for glow plugs off and started and he started the engine running good but after a cople seconds the engine is stopped self 🙄😏😐😐 I hearing a air blowing looks like coming from the turbo zone 🤔😏 but I'm alone I can not exactly who coming from that blowing 🤔 a strange thing is a electric vacuum pump not running to 😏 I checked a failure code is P0478!! I apreciate any caind of the help fellas cheers from North of Norway 👍👍
Hello,
Jorge! Sorry to hear you are having trouble with your 7.3L.
From what I understand, You are saying that your truck will be running fine and then randomly shut off. The Cause of this is usually a bad Crank Shaft Sensor.
First you should check the harness connection to your ICP (Injector Controller Pressure sensor).
Also Check your Harness Valve cover connectors. (They can rattle loose over time)
A bad ICP can also cause weird troubles.. Try running the truck with ICP unplugged and see if the truck stays running better.
If not, Install a new crank position sensor on the front of the engine.
@Jimmy Do All hi Jimmy 👋 thanks for your attention 👍 I checked a failure code (P0478)!! something about control exaust valve to hi🙄🤔😏 what a hell sensor can be?!!🤔 unfortunately no-one understand nothing about this caind of the engines up here 😕 😞 the last time I driving it's normally everything it's fine 🙂 he starts good but after a cople seconds the engine is stops immediately and I hearing air blowing just a second! looks like coming from turbo or exaust pipe but on turbo zone 🤔 🤪🤪
@@jorgefonseca9225 I understand but, I have had multiple 7.3L trucks have your issue and its always been a camshaft sensor. They go bad and shut the truck off randomly.
as far as your code goes (P0478)
If you unplugged the connector in my video, it may clear that code. It just means the butterfly valve in your exhaust off the back of the turbo is sticking on. That would not cause the truck to shut down.
DTC P0478 indicates an excessive back pressure condition existed during normal driving.
Possible causes:
stuck EBP butterfly valve
restricted exhaust
plugged EBP sensor line
misadjusted EPR linkage
F-Series wastegate turbo may be overboosting
This would cause loss of power. not a shutdown
@Jimmy Do All ahhh that's a air blowing air leak on turbo zone 😏🤔 I see 🤔 a cople weeks ago I tried clearing a egr sensor! is in front of the engine close to the fan ventilator 😐 but the metal house is dirty 😳 probably I need replaced that metal house and this damm sensor 🤔🤪
How well does this work when pulling a heavy load? Have any videos of the speed decrease? Thank you
I havent towed heavy with it yet. I just did it more for fun. Do some research on it. It may not be so great for the motor.
Depends auto or stick if u have a auto youll have to get a torque converter switch to keep the TC locked up to provide braking stick it doesn't matter if i remember correctly from the forums it works but nothing crazy 10-15% braking better then nothing
Bill Meyers I did this to my 73 and it works but when activated there’s no Throttle response it loses all power
I was having trouble getting out of second gear, I have an exhaust brake but it’s disconnected because I thought it was malfunctioning. I was encouraged to look at the tube to my EBPS and I found the tube had a hole in it. If my sensor wasn’t getting stimulated, would my EBPV close and keep me from accelerating? I know that I have to replace my tube but, I wonder if my sensor NEEDS to be replaced. I see sooooo many people cleaning their tubes, it’s such a cheap part! I don’t understand that!
@@NewEdgeCarpentry why would u be giving it power when the exhaust brake is on do u floor your gas and push your brake at the same time
Does this make the eco throw a code I really don’t want a check engine light
What do you mean by eco?
Sorry typo, I mean on the PCM or ECM computers I don’t want a check engine light
@@southwesthellraisers4931 No it should not as long as you make sure you send the 12v to the turbo and not back on the ecm lol
Why haven’t people done this on newer models 2002 with the automatic? Does it not work or something? Only for manual?
You can do it on all 7.3Ls
@@blackmasta71 okay thanks I will definitely be doing it to mine
@@blackmasta71
Thx for showing me how to do it great video.I’ve done it to my 2001 f250 and it works damn good when I shift down, I like how it sounds. Is it bad for the motor ?
@@ezequielpena1247 right on. Its more a mod for fun. Its not good to do it all the time.
@@blackmasta71 thx man, I was planning to use it pulling my trailer so I don’t have to use my brakes to much. But I don’t wanna mess it up
Dumb question I know but why not just replace the censor.
You can if you want but it usually messes up in real cold weather.
Its much better to have it on a manual switch
Help me understand why you put it on a switch
Its just a fun mod to make an exhaust break. Also if the oil actuated switch is malfunctioning (which happens in older trucks) this is a way to manually control it for faster warmups
@blackmasta71 does your truck throw a P0476 code running tests on or with forscan or any other type scanning system?
@@MikeConner.akaRadio its been a long time since I did that. I never had any dash engine light.
If your exhaust back pressure valve is malfunctioning and coming on when it shouldn't then a quick fix is just to unplug it. That way it cannot be actuated.
Since this mod I have now rebuilt the turbo with a EBPV delete. I just purchased a cheap kit from AliExpress. It has been holding up for years now.
@blackmasta71 Well, I just took my down pipe off, and the physical valve has been removed already that may be why I am getting Po475, 0476, I have no boot unless my chip is on full power but only get 18ppunds and when it needs more it falls on its face, like it's starving for air.
Got me thinking 🤔 😌 I wonder if my muffler is actually plugged up.
I've seen such on gas engines when a muffler or a Cat is plugged.
I got help and had him power brake the hell out of it, when he took it to full throttle and held it for about 10 seconds or so the up pipes started leaking pretty bad. But only under load.
Going to drop my muffler or disconnect it and try it.
@@MikeConner.akaRadio oh really eh.
Well if your up pipes are leaking then you will loose boost for sure.
I would also check your compressor wheel for play on the intake side. (In and out play is bad, A little up and down play is acceptable)
Also your air filter is very important. Even if your air filter does not look thst dirty, you will notice a difference with a brand new one
Leaky intercoolers can cause a loss in boost also. What year is your 7.3L?
I find that the stock compressor wheels buffet the air when under full load. Upgrade to a wicked wheel 2 compressor wheel and its nice smooth boost.
What's the point?
Whats the point of your comment lol
Exhaust braking... 🤦♂️
Is this to where you turn it on and off? Or is it auto and off?
Yes the switch turns it on and off
Whats the idea of this? I'm new to diesels and 7.3. Thank you
On Higher milage 7.3s the exhaust back pressure valve sensor turns the valve on at the wrong times causing your truck to not have power when really the valve should only be on during warmup.
This video shows how to disable the valve if its sticking on, and it shows how you can put the valve on a switch so you can control it manually.
@@blackmasta71umm... Remove the butterfly, remove the solenoid, weld it up, put a 470ohm resistor across the sensor at the front and have a nice day...
@@darrentylor5473 Yes that is a good mod to do once you have the turbo out for a rebuild. I installed a EBPV delete kit on my turbo instead of just welding up the oil ports for the oil actuator. What is the resistor for? My truck is fine with it just unplugged ?
Why dont you just use your Overdrive to slow down? That's what alot of people do
We all use that. Big rigs have an extra engine break to help slow down. This is sort of a fun thing to moc up and imitate that
That is not the exhaust back pressure sensor
Well, mate I have done this to multiple trucks. It disables the exhaust back pressure valve so what do you want to call it?
I'm thinking that it is the switch or plug to the actuator of the flap, the actual sensor is located on the passenger side front of the HPOP, the sensor sits on top of the small maybe ¼ inch steel tube that routes down to the passenger side front manifold. Which is where it actually is getting the backpressure reading. The sensor should actuate the flap anytime the pcm senses the intake temperature is below 50 degrees Fahrenheit and the oil temperature is below around 148 degrees I think. It is supposed to make the engine work harder, basically it simulates a load on the engine to make it work harder (the decreased throttle response) in order to make the heat work faster/warm the engine in cold climates.
Anyone looking to clean the actual sensor (not the part removed in this video) but on the front of the HPOP, only clean it off with a soft brush and air, any chemicals can destroy the sensor if it isn't already. But these are subject to carbon deposits and the tube it's mounted to gets blocked easily or even rots out. If you have to replace the sensor stick with Motorcraft or a REPUTABLE diesel parts dealer, don't try to get away with the "Prime" special for half the price. These are one of the few parts critical elements of the almighty 7.3! I may very well come out of the same plant or factory as the Motorcraft one, but the engineers have provided strict standards to manufacture the Motorcraft part and the cheap knockoff ones are made with less quality.
Whats that hissing sound
Idk, turbo? Maybe just the shitty audio on my cell phone
@@blackmasta71 the hissing only happend when u turn it off and stops when u turn it back on
@@MichiganVetAngler oooh thats when the flap closes in the exhaust
@@blackmasta71 ahhhhhhh ok
check engine light on now
Hopefully your not feeding 12v back to the computer
Are you using it above 2400-2500 rpm? Keep your turbo psi below 25 when using it.
Horrible video footage
Instead of commenting Make a better one then. Its in a tight spot.
Ima do this to a 2001 f450 manual 4x4 single cab short frame with a flat bed. I’m just gonna do it for the sound of it. I’m gonna post videos if anyone wants to see them. Also thanks for showing me how to do it. Great video man
Do you have a number or email? I have a question abt the wiring
Jamesblack90@gmail.com