How to adjust valves on a 1999 Honda CRV
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- čas přidán 4. 10. 2019
- 1999 Honda CRV Valve adjustments. B20.
Feeler Gauges: amzn.to/2o8fXuk
12mm long wrench: amzn.to/2Onb1fF
Anti-Seize: amzn.to/2YcxRtj
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Thank you for uploading this. It has been extremely helpful.
This is not the proper way to check valve lash. At tdc you have to start with the #1 piston valve closest to the camshaft sprocket. Do the intake and exhaust on #1 and then spin crankshaft 180 degrees and check both on #3 piston and then #4 and Then #2 piston. lobes on camshaft should be facing outwords on both sides when there in the right position before checking. I had to learn this the hard way to.
So i rotate 180° after cylinder one has been adjusted.? Do i rotate 180° after each cylinder adjustment?
@@cordellragsdale9949 Rotate crankshaft 180. until cam sprockets turn 90. Both lobes on camshaft should be facing outward. then check both. and then move on to next cylinder.
@@mikeg983 thank you. Exactly what i was looking for.
This looks like according to the book, that means to say the lobes don t necessarily need to be facing full up but to the sides or out? thanks a lot!
Mike G is there a video you know of that can show it the way you’re saying
Thank you. This weekend I will adjust my CRV.
your videos have helped me out so much man, thank you
This video helped out alot thank you!
Trimakasih tutorial nya. Saya dapat ilmu dari channel ini good job. Semoga cukcess selalu
Thanks you are saving my life. How to remove the carbon if it builds up on valves
Awesome tutorial, followed your instructions very simple. Gained more power and better throttle response, thank you!
method from comments: ¿
0:53 crank pulley bolt access hole
Comments: lobes need to be facing 90degrees outwards(opposite directions I think) on both sides when at TDC
18:42 Camgear and TDC Line relations
19:14 line on plastic timing belt cover lines up with line in crank pulley 19:24
19:42 4th line on the right. Ignore 3 lines on left
Hi, for which 99 crv engine is this tutorial? Thanks.
I would like to know why u havent turned the crankshaft 180 degrees for each cylinder and why u didnt start at number 1 intake to #1 exhaust cylinder then rotate to number 3....
This is why everyone has to beware and check multiple sources before you take the first video as being correct!!🧐
👏👏
Good video
Thanks for the visit
His choice of clearance (.005 intake and .008 exhaust) is out of specified range and too loose; should be 0.10 mm (.003937 or .004") for intake valve; then 0.18 mm (.007") for exhaust valves.
Thanks, I’ll try those specs next time I opened up the cover. 👍👍
Hey, got a 2004 Honda element no code map engine but at idle in the morning and when motor is warm, I'm getting around negative 15 both short term and long term. It smells of exhaust gasses quite heavily but engine doesn't run rough at all and only symptom I'm having is I feel I should have more power. Have new oem air fuel sensor and the rear o2 as well. All my live data looks normal like map, ect, ait, etc. Do you think since these engines need to have their valves adjusted and it's a new to me car with 160k, that valves being out of adjustment can cause a rich condition? Thank you.
Hmm if the car haven’t been adjusted since 2004.. I would look into it. You smelling exhaust gas? From the front or back? Maybe check catalytic converter.. hey I’m just throwing you ideas.. I’m no pro when it comes to element. Love to know your progress.
@@h0melyfe792 element has the 2.4L used in many accords and crv but yeah i checked the cat and it's not plugged and the leak is a little behind the upstream sensor the donut gasket but I would think that would make my condition lean so I'm not worried about that just yet. Fuel pressure is tough to check on these I'm hoping it's the valves out of spec.
also do a compression test. If numbers are low in a cylinder you might have a burnt valve. proceed to leak down test to confirm.
@@mikeg983 I ended up doing a valve adjustment and it helped improve my negative fuel trims quite a bit but I'm still in the negative 8 range and im still getting random smoke sometimes at a stop light. No codes no issues other than a little bit of lacking power. I think I just have a worn engine that's burning a little oil and I'll drive it until it can't no more because it's very driveable still.
at the end are you suppose to retighten the crankshaft pulley?
Edward Vazquez hi, did you remove the crankshaft bolt? Then yes you have to torque it back to spec. But if you didn’t remove it and just adjust valves, set it back to TDC.
Did you use the measurements underneath the hood? I have a 00 Honda CR-V
80oldies. Yes.
It still makes a lot of noise done everything step by step. Do you have to remove spark plugs. Should I go lower
80oldies. My plugs were already off since I just finished doing my belts at that time. Did u use the .008 for exhaust and .005 for intake? Previous dude that replied to me had the same issue.. but he ended up fixing.. he said it was too loose.
80oldies.. here’s the link of his video. czcams.com/video/gAbZwdsUKCQ/video.html
80oldies.. just make sure the .009 does not fit but the .008 does.. same goes for the intake, .006 does not fit but the .005 does.
nice video. I am on my 4th try, since after 3 tries, valves are ticking like CRAZY. It sounds like a diesel truck raped a lawn mower and gave birth to a sewing machine on steroids. Funny thing is, that the valve lash is tighter than yours, and it still makes noise. I am going back in tomorrow morning to try for a 4th time... I think this time I will tighten with the feeler gauge in the gap, until it binds completely, then back off a hair so I can pull it out.
George Avtandilov.. thx.. I hopefully your 4th try is a charm! I just saw your video. Thanks for sharing. From what I’m hearing, it doesn’t seem normal. But it’s not as bad as what I’ve seen or heard before. I hope it’s not a rod bearing or a bad rod. Let us know if you fix the issue. Thanks again.
@George Avtandilov Good job! Sounds like it’s back in action!
yall do NOT use this video to adjust your valve lash. This shit is wrong as hell. @TDC, you start with valves for cylinder 1 - 2 nuts for exhaust, 2 nuts for intake. Then you rotate the crankshaft pulley bolt 180, (the two “wheels”, w timing belt wrapped around em, will move 90), and then you adjust #3. Then you rotate 180/90, adjust #4. Then you rotate 180/90, adjust #2.
RIP this dudes valves 😂
This is not the proper way to do this, cylinder 1 is first, the rotate cam counter clockwise 90 degrees and do cylinder 3, then rotate cam 90 degrees and do cylinder 4, then rotate cam 90 degrees and do cylinder 2
This is definitely incorrect
This video shows you how not to do it