Video

thanks for this. have the same size door and getting ready to do this myself.

I like your video. I think for someone who may have never had to fill up their tires, this walkthrough would be helpful.

Biggest code violation of NEC 300.20 is having the service conductors enter through different openings. If you understand basic electrical theory then you would know that will cause the metal pan to conduct heat through magnetic coupling under load. All conductors of a circuit have to enter ferrous metal in one opening so the magnetic field cancel each other out and doesn’t cause the pan to induce heat. Neat work but not up to code. Looked over again and noticed even a more deadly violation that could kill people. There is no main breaker in this panel which would indicate this is a sub panel. You only bond ground and neutrals at the main source. NEVER AT A SUB PANEL. If the path is broken then you are making grounds and the panel box hot. You obviously have no idea what you’re doing, you’re a hack. Your work can kill people.

You didn't show anything. You played clips with annoying background music...

This design is shit

Hi, what would you suggest if the cable is stuck and the torquemaster plus cannot release tension. The door won't open. Is it safe to cut the cable while it has tension? Wouldn't the drum keep the spring from unloading its stored energy?

You NEVER said which way to turn if you need more or less lifting force.

Thanks guy, I really understood your instructions.. appreciate it

Good job

Damn shame on you bro

yall do NOT use this video to adjust your valve lash. This shit is wrong as hell. @TDC, you start with valves for cylinder 1 - 2 nuts for exhaust, 2 nuts for intake. Then you rotate the crankshaft pulley bolt 180, (the two “wheels”, w timing belt wrapped around em, will move 90), and then you adjust #3. Then you rotate 180/90, adjust #4. Then you rotate 180/90, adjust #2. RIP this dudes valves 😂

Nice. Your vehicle is in great condition. Got that same jack n love it.

Thank you very much

What code should I expect for the temp coolant sensor? That is great video

13:29 PS reservoir hose removal. Clamped and bracketed only. Part numbers

How much does all the oem genuine gaskets cost in total from the dealership?

Good video

You took the time to explain this job and its procedures.

method from comments: ¿ 0:53 crank pulley bolt access hole Comments: lobes need to be facing 90degrees outwards(opposite directions I think) on both sides when at TDC 18:42 Camgear and TDC Line relations 19:14 line on plastic timing belt cover lines up with line in crank pulley 19:24 19:42 4th line on the right. Ignore 3 lines on left

This video helped out alot thank you!

Made absolutely ZERO sense to put key in the ignition just to turn the heater control knob. Totally dumb ! Plus explain why the car gets run with radiator cap half off : to bleed air out if system. Any BOOB can post on CZcams. Damm shame!

That slack should not be there between the exhaust camshaft and crankshaft, and also it should be no slack between the both camshaft, that slack there mean the timing belt jumped and the timing is incorrect now, and the engine will not work or work horribly and then stop working overtime.

This video shows you how not to do it

Got the belt guide in backwards. Otherwise solid step by step

What if both fans never go on off the idle alone? Ha it was taking forever so I decided to throttle it and finally the one fan closer to pass her side came on. Coolant was steaming too😬. I finally said ok that’s enough after awhile, never got both fans running. Cap was on like in this video but after that long still held pressure and coolant sprayed out🤦🏻‍♂️. Restarting process but not going to wait for both fans now. It’s also 38 degrees here in Chicago and it was a old start when beginning this little project for me.

Hi, I have a 1 door wayne dalton garage door that your procedure worked great on so thanks for that! Recently one of the springs on my 2 door Wayne Dalton Garage door broke. The garage door opener still opened and closed correctly though. I hired someone to replace the spring but now the door jerks almost bad enough where it will almost break the door when closing. Going up it is as smooth as ever. I cannot get a hold of the installer. Any ideas? Thanks.

Perfectly done, great video. Details like the heater ignition phase. Thank you, my flush came out great, I didnt get the whole 1 plus gallons during the fill because of the legacy coolant in the jacket etc, least thats what I told myself.

So how often do you work on these? Been having issues with mine since day 1 and I’ve had it for a year. The bar shown on the left in your video was some how cut in half. ??? I put another bar on and now my cords are uneven. The one on the left side of the garage door is 90 inches while the one on the right hand side is 93 inches and the door sits crooked. Everyone is also acting like the tension is supposed to do something with the wire but mine isn’t doing anything. Not really sure what to do at all now.

your videos have helped me out so much man, thank you

What a piece of garbage system!

Is it quieter after replacement?

thanks for the video! steering is stiff, softens when accelerating. Any ideas?(CR-V RD1).

Lets address the elephant in the video, the Draw arm for the opener is completely backwards

My Honda Dealer says they don’t make Honda ATF Dextron any longer and gave me a different Honda transmission fluid and I question the parts lady about this and she said this is what’s used in 1998 and up mine is a 1997 which she claimed her book didn’t go back that far no book computer screen. I said if my transmission comes apart I coming back mad.

We lost power the other day and my wife wasn't capable to lift the garage door. Was out of balance, now thank your video, I put that door on balance and problem solved, now even is less noisy that before, thank you for your time. Cheers from Fla.

Hello, very nice details, got me confused when after rotation of crankshaft, the blue line was to the left, I believe 3 teeth, then you came back after and the blue line was on tdc. Which is fine, but I think you where wrong on moving crankshaft to the right, it should of been to the left counter clock, then tighten the bolt to to tensioner, that's what I did and it was perfect, much appreciate you sharing your knowledge

Do you tighten both sides? The red side tightens, gray right side just keeps spinning when I try to tighten it. I think my right side spring may be broke?

This guy sucks. This guy completely fails to clarify what he’s doing, why he’s doing something, and what for. MOST IMPORTANTLY using terms like here, there, this are absolutely worthless without showing or explaining what these terms are being used for. The safety latches should also be explained with some kind of pointing device to eliminate guessing. This task should also provide a clarifying explanation/example to effectively communicate safety procedures when performing this task.

Car showed that it was over heating with the check engine light and would not restart once the motor was hot. I fixed that by changing the coolant temp sensor. Since I drained the coolant to flush the system I went ahead and changed the thematic sender (next to the cts) and the fan switch and the thermostat. I can not get the car to show it’s not overheating now. I have only gotten about a gallon of antifreeze in the car. I don’t think all the air is out. Iv done everything on the video. Any idea what this could be or how to get the remaining air out. Also note I changed the thermo sender twice thinking it could be incorrectly calibrated. Went back with a genuine Honda part. Still same issue. Before I started all of this process the gauge itself on the dash showed normal operating temp and stayed centered.

Thanks for video! Is it normal if the springs i ordered came with the red one longer than grey one?

Why go anti clockwise

Tensioner is such a poor design

Good video. You did install the timing belt guide on the crankshaft backwards though.

Hey after watching your videos and analyzing how to set the engine to TDC I changed my leaking water pump, tensioner and belt. After I replaced the and made sure I had the engine at TDC I removed the slack counter clock wise and tightened the tensioner bolt at 40 foot pounds. Once I started the car it started up fine but just has a rough idle. I did the idle relearn but as I’m at a stop light or idling in park I can feel a very slight thud not a pop. I have no CEL light but over all the car runs good with even a bit more power I just have that rough idle at times. When I turn the steering wheel the engine idle drops but picks up before stalling. Any ideas what could be going on?

Thank you

IF / WHEN you remove the latch assembly, the white gear will fall out. Plastic item, be careful not to drop it. Also the direction of the teeth (for white gear) are same as the ones on the other exposed gear when you go back together with it.

I followed your video and it was perfect. Another good job done, saved money thanks to you.

Thank you. This weekend I will adjust my CRV.

Found your video very helpful. Did mine but now it is accelerating. I’m left wondering what I missed or did wrong. Can you please help?

Sometimes when hoses don't want to slide off it's easier to make a cut right at the end of the hose with a utility knife.