How to Test for Voltage. What is Voltage? Can't You Just Use a Tick Tracer?
Vložit
- čas přidán 5. 02. 2023
- Join this channel to get access to perks:
/ @electricianu
As electricians, we commonly use voltage to test circuits and to make things work in general. But what is it and how do we test for it? In todays episode of Electrician U, Dustin talks about what voltage is, how we can test for it, and what equipment we SHOULD/SHOULDN’T be using to test for it.
🤘⚡️MEMBERSHIP⚡️🤘
JOIN ELECTRICIAN U - become a member and get:
FREE Continuing Education every year
FREE Practice Exams
FREE Monthly Video Courses
FREE Weekly Live Instructor-Led Classes
FREE Monthly Educational Newsletter
Premium Members-Only Content
Private Discord Channel
Monthly Members-Only Discord Chats
Sign up here --- www.electricianu.com/electric...
🎧🎹MUSIC AND VIDEO:🎹🎧
/ descantmv
🎬✍️ART AND ILLUSTRATION:✍️🎬
www.daverussoart.com
A good analogy for voltage can be pressure. For instance, pressure in a water hose. The more pressure, the harder the water comes out. Same with an electrical circuit. Or a Slinky toy. If you were to pull it apart, the pressure waiting for that Slinky toy to snap back into place can be thought of as voltage.
Voltage in an electrical circuit is a difference in potential between 2 different points. In an electrical setting, once energized, we SHOULD have a voltage reading between certain things and we SHOULDN’T have voltage between other things. So, in a 120 type circuit, we SHOULD measure (nominally) 120v between hot and neutral and hot and ground. In a 3-phase environment, we should have a voltage reading between the HOTS AND a voltage reading between HOT and neutral and HOT and ground. We SHOULD NOT have any voltage readings between Neutral and Ground under any circumstances, as these two items are bonded together at the service point and are in essence on the same point. If you DO measure voltage between Neutral and Ground, something is off in the wiring between neutral/ground or there is a faulty piece of equipment somewhere in the system, which either requires some attention!
There are many pieces of testing equipment available to us electricians, and they all vary in what they can test for and how much you want to pay for them! A non-contact voltage tester (also commonly referred to as a tic tracer) is probably the most basic of the bunch. It glows and/or squeals at us when it is near a source of something energized. However, these types of test equipment are historically inaccurate and test via capacitance. You just have to get it close to the wire/buss/etc. It also can’t tell you how much voltage is present, only that it is. All this type of equipment will show you is if something IS energized only, and the circuit testing should be verified by a proper meter. A plug tester will also light up and show you that voltage is present, and will also tell you if you have wires backwards and a few other options. There are even new plug testers on the market that WILL tell you the voltage that is present. However, this type of testing equipment will only work on receptacles! Great if you are working on a receptacle, bad if you are attempting to test in a panel or J Box!
We should be using a multimeter to test for voltage. There are many options/manufacturers available. A meter should be of high quality (you are trusting your life with it after all!) and have the options that you will be using frequently. If there are any doubts as to what type of meter you should buy, talk to your veteran co workers and see what types they own/use.
To test for voltage, spin the dial to the appropriate setting (voltage) and put one lead on the neutral wire and one on a hot. If energized, the meter will display the voltage present. You should also be able to put a lead on the ground and one on the hot and get close to the same voltage as you did between hot and neutral. In a 3-phase environment, you can also test between 2 hots and get a reading, although it will be a higher number than a single hot.
We hope this has been an insightful look into HOW to test for voltage and some of the equipment used. Remember, when in doubt on what you should be reading on your meter, ask a veteran electrician! They are an invaluable source of information! Is there a topic you would like to see discussed on Electrician U? Leave a comment in the comments section and let us know. Please continue to follow Dustin and Electrician U as we are constantly updating our content to assist our followers in becoming the best electricians that they can be.
#electrician #electrical #electricity #how #to #test #for #voltage
Great explanation!
Only use Tick Tracer to detect presence of voltage, but NEVER to detect absence of voltage.
Just quick question in uk when testing using meter thought i was taught L toN 230v L to E 230v and N toE
And N toE or ground up to15v acceptable though pref 0?
THANK YOU for this. As a new apprentice, I'm still nervous about using a DMM. This is the exact video I've wanted to see - using one in different scenarios and what it all means.
If you've got a full blown Digital MultiMeter working on a job site that would be like taking a Thomson submachine gun squirrel hunting. Hopefully the person/people training you just call it that.
The Fluke 88 has been around forever. It's a quality tool. However it has functions you'll likely never use as an apprentice.
An everyday meter would have stuff like 1000vac, 100vdc, 10amp in line, a continuity tester and a useful add-on if you need to check loads get an amp clamp.
To each his/her own I suppose. I use a dummy stick and that helps me to keep from getting shocked. The tool that I use is dependent on the information that I hope to gather by using it. A dummy stick is a binary device - Yes or No. "Is this circuit hot?" - that's all that it's good for, but the Yes's are important. Just test to make sure that it's working before you believe the results. Find a known hot circuit and make sure that you're getting a positive test before moving on to the circuit that you're going to start working on. All of the tools that you demoed in this video are really useful. I use all of them, including the dummy stick.
Great video! Personally I use a Fluke 87v first to see what the voltage is. If the voltage seems questionable I use my Ideal Wiggy to verify it's not "induced voltage" that a Digital Voltage Meter can't pick up.
Great video as always! Only problem is that every time I watch one, I spend money on new tools. But I’m not too mad this time. It’s only costing me $20 for the Klein GFCI Electrical Outlet Tester with LCD. How did I not know about this one!?!? I’m headed to home depot right now, they have 12 in stock! 🤣 Thanks again for the great info. 👍
Wondering if you could make a video about efficiency and speed tips for residential rough-ins. I work for a company that pays piece rate so the faster and more efficient I am, while doing the work correctly, the more money I make. I would love to hear tips and tricks you have come up with over your years of rough-ins.
Could you make a video about switching the neutral ? I’ve run into it a few times. I just think it’s very interesting, and definitely something someone in service should be aware of.
I love my non contact voltage tester. It gives me an idea of what’s going on. It also beeps at a different frequency based on voltage ranges. I mostly use it to check if breakers are off though.
You could use ncvt but not Klein ones ) i do recommend fluke. It’s the same price but much much accurate and no accidental annoying beeeeepiiiinggg all the time
@@raidone7413 They're fine for simple home projects imo. Like stuff you won't need a permit for, just to confirm that the correct breaker is turned off. If it's a more complicated situation (like commercial), you'd get a professional to do it and they'd have more advanced tools anyways
I figured out that you can check to see if a ballast is working or not. If the ballast is good, the entire fixture will cause the NCV to trigger.
A receptacle tester's lights are wired to hot - neutral, hot - ground , and neutral - ground prongs and light up when there's a voltage difference between the prongs. For example if all three lights are lit with the center light glowing very bright and the other lights a more normal brightness this indicates the receptacle is wired to 208 or 240 volts, as could occur if someone installs a nema 5-20 when they really want and need a nema 6-20.
Good video!
You should make one on meggers.
THANK YOU! One additional sidenote about NCV: Even worse, there are many instances where it gives false negatives. If you are standing on electric floor heating you can get coupled to it. It's horrible how people trust it all the time for "safe" insolation.
Thank you so much for promoting proper and safe working practises.
Great video! Thank you profesor!
Nicely Done😉👍🏽⚡️
I thank you Dustin I already fount my 2 hot legs and nuetral that had no breaker box
Hey, Electrician U, you should gives us a tour of all your Electrical Books.
Great info! This is conpletely off topic, but, Im going to be graduating my IBEW apprenticeship in 2 years in Arizona, where licensing is only needed as a contractor. Am i still able to sign up for your Texas continuing education classes if we ever decide to move as we have family in Texas?
I'll probably get one to play with and see if I get comfortable with it in any situation, but I think I'll stick to the GFCI plug and DMM until then. BTW - I do use the continuity and voltage presence (through air coupled inductance {I think}) test functions on my DMM, but only for cursory checks, not function or safety.
The NCV is a warning device, not a measurment device. It is to clear before going hands on. And should be used when approaching failed equipment and if you “put it down” for a period. Just like checking a firearm. I suppose more useful in repair. Is that cabinet really grounded and not energized? Just a sweep will catch the rare event. Similarly, if you’ve been cycling power on say a condenser unit, then went to the truck or something, is it on or off? Give the HV wiring a sweep before going hands on again. The beeping means break out the voltage measureing device to physically verify and quantify.
Thankyou Justin.
Do we bond past the service or does that interrupt the fastest way to ground?
I'd like to see you talk about some situations where a voltage tester has helped you catch a problem where the dummy stick wouldn't have
I’ve had false positives on the dummy stick. Not sure exactly sure how it happened, but it was beeping because it detected a tiny amount of voltage, even though the power on that circuit was off.
Shared neutrals
Ticks for safety, Multis for diagnosing or solving issues.
This is not really on topic, but several years ago I was replacing a filter in a compressed air line. But strangely as I separated the pipe it arced. AN AIR LINE ! that goes to the paint booth. I had other calls to make, so I told the owner he should get an electrician in there to see what is going on. It would be really bad if the painter started spraying and got an arc. I tried it several times just to make sure it was not some kind of static charge. So, there must be a wire in contact with the plumbing somewhere. Might be a quick find or all day.
Another amazing video from such an amazing channel. Thank you guys for what you guys do. I have a question and would love to know some of the reasons why I have seen voltage between a neutral and a ground and testing with a voltage meter. I have actually seen up to 30 V before sometime is it 10 or 20 V on existing systems, I would be working on. What would be the scenarios causing there to have voltage between these two points when there shouldn’t be. Thank you. Kindly in advance. Joseph Nicolas
When I've encountered this it's usually been an issue with the neutrals being all tied together from different circuits. Or a multiwire not on a double pole and one phase is on and the other is off. Still learning this myself though so could be other things
@@stacidiane thank you for sharing
Can you talk about motor controls and latch circuits
He doesn’t know motor controls. Though great at the other stuff
I have a code question, if tour installing a transfer switch on a service do you have to install a surge protection device per 2020 code?
It is a good idea to install a surge protective device to protect an installation even if code does not require it. It improves safety..
Some countries in their electrical code mandate the use of SPD's.
Think about the benefit from a safety point of view and if it is not too expensive then do it.
Too often electricians try to get away with doing only what the code requires, the bare minimum. Give the customer a choice.
Does a fluorescent lamp have capacitance?
How do I join that 9.99 a month plan once I joined the 2.99 I don't see it
Quick question. Was that a legit scenario where phase A/B are the same? Or what it for the sake of the video?
Fixed the DMM fuse yet?
I tell my apprentices " you have potential "
Very informative, do you recommend that fluke T5-600 tester even thought it’s not a RMS tester, I heard they are not as accurate as a true RMS device, thanks Bro
As electricians, for the most part we are reading nominal voltage. Meaning if we take a voltage reading on a receptacle and it’s plus or minus %5 of 120 volts. That’s good. Accuracy is important but we wouldn’t need something as accurate as someone in electronics
@@adammorgan9304 Thanks for your reply Adam
@@adammorgan9304 Wrong answer. That response seems to suggest you don't know what True RMS meters are.
Which is disappointing as you said "we electricians" giving the impression you are a qualified electrician and yet you don't actually know the answer.
If all you are measuring is sinusoidal waveforms at 60Hz you do not need a true RMS meter.
If you are measuring different frequencies and waveforms which are not sinusoidal them TrueRMS is the way to go. A True RMS meter on these waveforms will give an accurate RMS measurement.
If you shut off breaker and measure between hot and ground and get voltage say 10 volts. That would be ghost voltage correct?
What the hell is a ghost voltage?
If your meter is measuring 110 volts then you have 110 volts present. Let's be clear on that.
If you contact your body to that voltage then you can be killed.
Suggest you stop talking in terms of ghost voltages as that is dangerous.
DUSTIN, If you didn't have any color codes to tell which is phase A , phase B, phase C, how can you know which is Phase A, Phase B, Phase C? I have heard to use a 3 phase motor and watch how the 3 phase motor is rotating directions to figure out the phase A, phase B, phase C? because a DVM meter will only tell you the voltage but NOT the 3 phase parts
The direction of rotation will only tell you phase orientation, but it won't identify each line conductor.
@@robertbritton656 How do you IDENTIFY each phase line conductor? because a DVM meter will only tell you the voltage of the phase NOT the Identification as well as a 3 phase motor will only tell the phase orientation NOT the identification
@@waynegram8907 The easiest way to do it would be to test for continuity between the source of the installation and the point you're working at. For example, test between L1 at the circuit breaker and all 3 points at the unknown conductors.
@@robertbritton656 All 3 phases are mostly a Live circuit with very high voltage being applied to the circuit breaker box. I'm not sure if you can use a DVM in Continuity mode while the 3 phases are a live circuit this is very dangerous type of testing. The Continuity will tell you its connected to L1 but still doesn't tell you if its phaseA, phaseB or phase C, that is the hard part is figuring out which is phaseA, phaseB and Phase C
If the NCV is beeping, you will probably get shocked if you wiggle your finger around there. If it's not beeping, that MIGHT mean that you aren't using the ncv right and you'll get shocked, or it MIGHT mean that it's safe.
Because of your channel I’m enrolling in a electrical program at my local community college
Best of Luck brothaa. Currently in a trade school!
Here's my view of dummy sticks: if it reads nothing or low, the circuit is definitely off and you're okay to start working. Otherwise you might need to pull out the voltage meter to check. Am I wrong?
YES you are wrong. The dummy stick is not a guarantee. Only use the dummy stick to see if you need to test further.
If it reads low then the circuit is definitely *NOT* off.
Use a proper meter to prove dead. Use a voltage proof to verify the meter is working correctly. Use that proof before you use the meter.
Question. If you have all breakers off, but you're still getting 120v, what is happening?
Getting 120 volt where?
@@FirstnameLastname007 On the main panel.
@@michaelk8060 sorry my question should of been is it at the outlet your still getting 120volt?
@@FirstnameLastname007 I had one tester lead on the neutral bar and the other on the screw of a breaker with the breaker being off and I was still getting 120v.
@@michaelk8060 okay take that wire off the circuit breaker and test the wire by itself if its not hot then sounds like u have a faulty breaker too me
You said...
Humans, dont have voltage. ✨🤸✨
🌞 🌿⚡💚⚡🌿🌙
-
I'll hire you, as my electrician.
When you hire me, as your doctor.
Good observation.
This video is filled with errors.😒
Its also like a game of " can you find all the errors i made in this video ?"😋
And did you also notice that his pen tester beeps near the main lugs of the panel, yet, there is no wire hooked up..😖
The panel is dead. Loll
Used to measure AC in my body as a kid , probably induced from power lines around me.
You need a better NCV tester. Klein is the worst. Fluke is a little too sensitive and I have found as a power Plant Electrician that the ideal heavy duty is the great midpoint. Advice is to replace every six months
Is the electrician U website abandoned now ?
You can test high voltage ⚡.
Damn death sticks are as necessary as 14awg conductors. I guess if we don't offer it, we can't see who drinks the Kool-aid!
I call the non contact voltage sensor a “Hot or not stick.” After I switch a breaker I have the stick in my shirt and stick it inside a breaker box before my hand.
We called troubleshooting "follow the meter". I'd tell new people: If you need help I will come over...If you don't have your meter with you...I will leave.
If an electrician doesn't have some kind of multifunction tester or DMM permanently in their tool kit, them they are not genuinely interested in the electrical domain.
I have had a DMM or analogue meter since around 1984 even before I started any electrical training.
Good principle to follow, to many new techs expect others to lend them tools/testers
I thought the laser was for shining in peoples eyes while they are trying to work. My mistake. :)
No volts for my volks.
Why do you say A phase and B phase? That first panel is a single phase panel, so you are confusing people by saying that there’s two phases A and B.
Hot A and Hot B
Or the NEC term for hot wire “ungrounded conductor” A and B
Your test voltage with a volt meter, of course! Everything else is useless! Of course, we are electricians, we all have multi meters.
I had a supposedly journeyman working for me a few years back that stuck his DMM into a can with 480 volts to check voltage. He had his meter setting on ohms. The DMM blew up in his face and his face blew up also. He was burned pretty bad. Company settled with him for $350,000. just to keep from going to court. Totally his stupidity but he got a big payday and an uglier face!!!
That is why you always leave a DMM on a voltage range. Switch to ohms and current when you need to, switch back immediately to a voltage range. Get in the habit.
A DMM has a high input impedance, typically 10Meg Ohm on a voltage range, no current is going to flow. Safest range to be on.
@@deang5622 Yes Sir, I totally agree with you!!!
Off-topic:
One of the biggest complaints is why are the outside service cabinets getting so big.
We may think a 400 amp service entry looks pretty after hours of work but the customer sees a bunch of ugly s… on the side of the million dollar plus building. The industry needs to do a better job of designing service entry cabinets I/E make them smaller not bigger.
Million dollar building? Plant a shrub.
Have you ever terminated any of that equipment? Especially when it’s fed with multiple parallel runs of, let’s say 600-750 MCM? There needs to be adequate space inside the cabinet to make terminations especially considering the minimum conductor bending radius requirements of 300.34 of the NEC
@@Struthio_Camelus camouflage it !
@@Ephesians-ts8ze RealTree® FTW!
@@Struthio_Camelus FTW?
Test voltage by licking fingers and grabbing wires in both hands
Dummy stick*
Fart man first
Jroc in second
18st
It is ridiculous to compare a wand to a meter, puleeez.