Is Vertical Drywall Worth It?
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- čas přidán 5. 07. 2024
- Can you install drywall vertically to avoid mudding butt joints? In this video I show you how. Find my favourite drywall tools here: 🇺🇸geni.us/lZ2WE (Amazon) 🇨🇦 geni.us/FJSwoB (Amazon)
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This is the most realistic building show out there. That's exactly how I squint too when I cut plywood!
🤓
Just wanted to say thank you for all your videos over the years. Currently reno-ing our master bath and have used your videos for just about every step of the process. Huge THANK YOU for everything you do!!!
That is awesome!
I have remodeled most of my house with the helpful info in Jeff's videos, but this is the first I am a bit indifferent about. In the few rooms I framed and drywalled, I hung the drywall vertically. After framing, I used a 14.5 inch piece of 2x4 and basically checked the gap between each stud. Anywhere that was a good amount off I just put that block between the studs and it evened everything out. Then I would go through with insulation/vapor barrier.
I think the horizontal strapping would cause issue in cases of hanging tvs or anything else that would require stud mounting. It would pull the drywall closer to the stud and bend/crack it between the straps.
I stand by framing more carefully, taking your time and hanging vertical. No butt joints, not horizontal strapping needed. No long run issues.
Alex, yes this is the way to go! On floor joists it's called bridging. On walls I believe it blocking. One in between every stud is not a bad idea. If money is not a problem use fire treated lumber for blocking because the blocking will slow a fire from climbing the insides of a wall, it acts as a fire break! Just sayin !
@@stevehamman4465 That's what I thought.
I originally got the idea watching a few decks being built and they straightened out some of the joists using this process. I just assumed it would work framing a wall, tried it, and it worked like a charm.
@@alexkramer6054 , been awhile for me but, if 10ft long floor joists, may be code to have bridging.
I thought Jeff was going to do blocking as you describe.. this video is strange.. amateurish when so much of his other videos are so good. Let's try to forget this one.
Figure out where your tv’s and cabinets are going to be and use a wider piece in those locations.
You know, I live in a country where we don't build with wood & drywall, but with concrete and stones, but watching your videos makes me confident that I can do a DIY project with your tips.
You're awesome, warm greetings from Libya 🇱🇾
Do you have drywall and lumber like this over there?
It's so interesting to see how different countries do things; here in Japan, hanging drywall vertical is the standard, without using the horizontal strapping- directly onto the studs. Also, those drywall squares are non-existent over here. Everyone uses electric saws with drywall blades, hooked up to vacuum extraction.
Very cool. Cheers
Is everything done with lumber in Japan too? I understood that wood frame is not universal and it’s based on availability and price of wood
What about steel/aluminum studs? The prices for both wood and steel are swinging so the debate is real in SoCal. Still seems horizontal is better with finer thread screws, but am I wrong?
@@wiseguy8828 I don't work in industrial, but I know that large buildings such at supermarkets, drug stores, large offices etc. build with metal frames. I build family homes and two-story apartment buildings and wood frames are the standard for us. I've never seen metal studs used for homes, etc. though perhaps that may just be due to the region I'm in? Japan is pretty flush for wood though, so I'm not sure.
@@cjplay2 I don't work with those, so I can't say. All homes and apartments under 3 stories are built with wood framing, as far as I know though. Like I said, plasterboard put up vertically is the standard and we use both 32mm and 41mm length plasterboard screws, depending on the type of plasterboard we're putting up- regular or strengthened, and also depending if we're putting 1 layer or 2.
I am glad that you both kept and acknowledged the measurement error in the video. I caught it immediately but only due to the practice of repeating measurements to myself no less than 14 times each due to making that same mistake many many many times myself
Love that facial expression near the end when you are showing one horizontal taping from end to end of wall. Classic Jeff
Thanks for helping out on so many topics.
After watching "No more butt joints ", I wanted to share this solution for people like me who just can't get tapping down. I cut 8" strips of osb and glue 1.5" wide strips of heavy cardboard (I get 1/32 thick sheets from work) along both edges. Then I place the dw sheet to fall between studs, screw the butt edge to centerline of the osb with the cardboard against the back of it When both sheets are screwed tight the cardboard causes a slight valley.
Hey Jeff. I love your videos. I like the way you explained how difficult this can be. My son does all of his drywall vertically all the time. He does it with such ease. Thank you for your videos
2:45 i like how Jeff is confident enough in his abilities, at the same time accepts that if the thing is hidden, it just has to be functional, not visually perfect
Just finishing up a master bedroom suite and bath remodel where I ran about 16 sheets vertically and it turned out awesome. So worth the extra difficulty to avoid but seems. Major pain if your working by yourself. Still worth it.
All you need to do is set up your studs for framing 4' (1200mm) sheets, hence why we frame either 400mm or 600mm centres. Hanging drywall vertically is very easy if you know how, and it eliminates butt joins, leaving only tapered edges to fill.
I did my entire basement virtically and it looks fantastic.
In my UK kitchen flat the old Victorian fire had been crudely pulled out, leaving badly plastered, half destroyed lath and plaster wall. Eleven feet ceilings, so as the full wall was to be covered in cabinets, I framed the whole thing then ran three foot high drywall length ways with eight foot vertical above. Butt joints were below worktop height and only four vertical joints which came out pretty well after watching lots of videos! The new framing also gave me good fixing points for 32 base and wall units.
Now psyching myself up for the bath removal and shower installation. ........
Thanks for adding those notes about Steel studs - my residential condo here in Pompano has steel studs with support beams that run in the ceiling
Love your videos and they have helped me out a lot. I have put drywall up in my entire basement. While it isn't perfect, it isn't bad at all. Thanks!!!
Glad to help
The look when he does the "but if you do it horizontal" was priceless!! Just busted up laughing. Thank you!!
But these plywood shims create a gap between the drywall and the studs. So if you need to mount something to the studs later, like a shelf, a cabinet, a TV, etc, it will bend the drywall, and possibly crack it too
How about just adding a sister stud vertically in the odd place where your sheets don't land on a stud perfectly
I've had to do that in our old house. 👍
I did that in my basement, it was a workshop, didn't needed to be a top notch finish and it was my "learning drywall and plastering" phase. Mind you a stud was running a couple of bucks back then, they are $6 a piece now.
Keep it coming. I love it all.
Southern US it's all sheetrock and all vertical. Usually the same person does framing and sheetrock.
I've only ever seen drywall installed vertically here in the UK
Yep. 8ft ceilings and 8ft plasterboard sheets. Studwork always has noggings, so they don't wander all over the place. Easy and quick (with no strapping).
common in commercial applications too, higher wall sizes plus metal stud tracks.
Like Andrew said . Commercial jobs mostly 9ft ceilings, ten ft ,take a ft off and vertical hang.
I definitely carried 13 sheets of 14 footers (with help) down a basement bulkhead 2 weeks ago. It was a royal pita, but it eliminated all but one butt seam.
I ended up going vertical on our main floor because we have 9' ceilings throughout and didn't have any issues with my studs not being plumb enough to screw my boards on without the need for any strapping. Just finished drywalling our second floor as well and went vertical where I could to eliminate butt joints where possible
Drywall was designed to be installed vertically and when we are talking fire rating it is code for it to be placed vertically so there is no edge without wood backing. Only tapers like drywall horizontally because of the awkward motion needed to fill a vertical joint also the way the fibers run inside the drywall it gives more support vertically I find it funny that you would show the proper way as a alternative way fyi I been drywalling for 25 years
We always did vertical, but that was on a mainfloor, rather than the basement. Zero strapping. Zero popped nails.
Worked great for us.
Same here.
Tell me your a hack without telling me you are a hack
@@TheBUGZNTA
We picked out our own 2x4s...
I just did vertical drywall in my basement. I had no problems with stud/drywall edge alignment. I really don't see what all the fuss is about.
@@marshaul
I think you just need to select your lumber to assure straightness. Same should go for 2x6s.
I did my entire home that way. I never did drywal before and it just made sense I guess? Glad to see I am not crazy or anything haha.
I did my basement that way, and the inspector asked "why did you hang it that way, most people hang it horizontally". I told him it was to avoid butt joints. His response was "but most people hang it horizontally". "Why?" Ivasked. "That's what most people do" Yeesh. The comments in these kinds of videos are always the same. A bunch of contractors arguing with each other, bragging about their years in the business, calling each other hacks, but rarely providing the rationale behind their approach and rarely saying why the other way is wrong....just saying it's wrong. And if they contractor in the video does a careful job, they make fun of him for taking too long!
Awesome teacher clearly explain no loud music in the background 💯👍😉😎
Thank you for the relevant well presented information, also you make it seem fun.
Thanks Jeff for a great video. Hi to Matt and Michelle as well.
Thanks 👍Cheers Larry!
I installed and finished sheetrock for over 24 years, they used to hang it like this back in the day but then changed and I think they changed due to sagging issues with humidity. On small projects I hang it vertically just to cut down on butt joints and sanding but a good finisher can hide anything :) Then they started using glue on studs and no nails except on edges, few years later and that chit would come crashing down or popping off, out west that works because of low or no humidity but down south here, thats a no go zone....
I had to do my entire bathroom vertical. Actually worked out perfect because of the dimensions of the room.
well done Joshua!.
In UK we do vertical frame and dry boards. Even better our houses generally have 8ft / 2.4m high ceilings. Just run an extra stick at joint points. Also fit noggins between the verticals at 4 ft / 1.2 m spacing.
so easy, thank you for the idea. You're the best!
Usually i'm on the same page as Jeff, but Vertical with no strapping is not an issue at all for a casual DIY'er like me who finished my own basement. If you take the time to make sure your studs are perfectly even (as simple as a perfectly cut 2x4 spacer top and bottom to locate each framing stud while nailing) you don't have to dick around with the drywall later. Maybe this takes a little more time, but the result is perfect and no butt joints.
I'm going vertical with my basement. No issues so far.
I did vertical drywall in my garage with the intention of not mudding or taping. Very easy to do even if the studs aren't 100% straight. Not sure I'd do this in the house though where a finished wall is expected.
Your videos are great, good info and fun personality. Your thumbnail on this one was funny. Cheers fam
Cheers!
I've done a lot of vertical drywall installation and though it can be annoying if the framing isn't perfect, I'd still never use strapping. Trying to mount anything to the wall later would be impossible unless it happened to perfect line up with one of the straps.
And the "issue" with hanging vertically still applies to horizontal too - if the stud isn't quite in the right place, you end up needing to shave some off the edge of the drywall, whether it's horizontal or vertical. Sure, it's a longer edge with vertical, but I dunno. I find the mudding to be so much faster with only the long joints to do, that it more than makes up for a little extra time getting things lined up.
Couldn't you plan if you know you're going to hang cabinets or something? Or measure the strapping properly so you can screw through the strapping and the stud? That should be even stronger because you could use 1/2" longer screw?
In Europe we install drywall always vertical. Took me some time to get used to horizontal drywall here in NA
thanks your videos are always helpful
When I worked with commercial drywall stuff as a late teen early 90s it was all vertical and metal frame. My only tools a drywall screw gun, a single shot .22 hammer, a putty knife. Was super duper easy, but I suppose variances in stud placement in homes and odd wall sizes of areas like basements make it more difficult
Wow! Really looks easier to do the drywall and more efficient even for those homeowners who are just doing DIY. Truly less work!
Very helpful. Thanks for posting
Glad it was helpful!
wow, never thought of using plywood that way, PLUS it will never split! hahaha. Nice video, thanks for the content!
Im not a carpenter and had zero experience wall framing or hanging drywall. I managed to hang 16 sheets of drywall vertically in a new basement room by watching this guy and other CZcams videos. I didn’t have any problems hanging vertically because i was extremely meticulous with the framing. I only had two boards that were warped enough to cause problems…. And i solved both by just fixing extra 2x4s together with deck screws. Cost me $8. Cheaper than a sheet of plywood and no cutting involved.
I would fail horribly as a commercial drywaller because of the silly amount of time it took me to build one room. But very pleased with the results
well done!
We hang drywall vertical. Your right nothing is ever level especially the basement, great tips 👍
Wood studs are rarely straight. Hanging horizontally gives a flatter wall when the studs are bowed. When it is really bad, you still need to shim or straighten, but it is less critical than when vertical.
Shear panels are usually hung vertically with adjacent panels both hitting the same stud including the recommended gap between panels.
Very informative video! I've always wondered what the cons and pros were of doing this. You should include not to screw the drywall down so tight that it crushes it to all your drywall videos. Because I've had multiple drywallers doing work lately and they all are crushing the hell out of the drywall lol. Seems so obvious that if you crush it, it loosens the whole structure but this concept seems to be lost on them. They even make drywall heads for your electric driver that automatically disengage when the drywalls crew is fully set. They never seem to use anything like this. Another thing from a home owners point of view I'm not a fan of strapping anything. The mice and all kinds of critters like to travel through the walls in the gaps that strapping leaves open between the stud and the wall. They can literally get anywhere they want to in the house through walls with strapping. Extremely rare but my whole house was built with 2x3 with scrapping on both sides of the wall covered with vertical tongue and groove boards as the finish wall. I've had snakes mice and all kinds of things walking thru these walls and it doesn't make for very good air sealing either. Since then I've removed all tongue and groove boards and strapping and I've installed drywall directly to the studs. All my issues with air infiltration dust and critters have been solved.
Those bits that "disengage" are not for pros. They are for Suzy home makers. And take care of you rodent problem first.
have you seen trusscore - kinda like PVC siding for interior, especially garages. also has available slatwall option.
Your videos are awesome. Thanks for your tips! Greetings from Toronto.
I have a basement subfloor question and need you to help me decide....
I can't make my mind up. I am either doing:
1) Basic: Delta FL dimple with vinyl plank directly on top, or
2) Cadillac: Delta FL / 1/2" XPS foam board / 5/8" plywood / vinyl plank
or
3) Rolls Royce: Delta FL / 1" XPS foam board / 5/8" plywood / vinyl plank
Not sure if it makes a difference on the floors. Also I am 6foot tall, so I don't want to decrease ceiling height if I can help it.
Maybe better to save the money with option 1 and then buy some nice area rugs.
love to hear your thoughts.
TIA
It is the norm in the UK to hang plasterbaord vertically. The joys of how different countries do things.
I'm sorry I found this video funny, I didn't know Vertical wasn't the norm. 25-30 years ago this is how my dad taught me (I was in my teens), but he did always use Metal Studs so maybe that is why. I can remember when I was a kid and DIY cable shows start showing horizontal, I asked him why we didn't do that and he just said that 12' sheets are hard to manage by 1 person.
Thank you for your videos they are super helpful and help fill in gaps in my knowledge/memories, my dad is no longer with us so I'm not able to ask him anymore.
I'm in the proces of redoing my daughter basement, here is how i did it.
Firts, i tear down everything. Walls, floor, ceilling. By doing so, it exposed the spaghetti factory hiden under the ceilling...The isolation was from another era, there's nothing i could do to improved it. So, i put a 2" isofoild rigid board on the foundation, from the floor all the way up between the rim joist, using a spray foam to fill the bigger gap and tape between each board. Already there, it make a huge difference on the humidity and heat. Then, i used 1x3 forence, screw it through the foamboard on the foundation with tapcon horizontaly, every 20" till 8 feet. Then install another section of 1x3 verticaly every 16". By doing that, it create a gap to feed all the electrical, and allow to use regular electric box. 16 inches give you a good 2 1/2 wide to screw the drywall. I installed all my drywall verticaly (8 feet) , since i will install a hang ceilling at 8 feet, the drywall is 1 1/2 " from the floor, it leave me just anough space to screw the L contour for the ceilling. This method is much cheaper than using 2x4 structure, the price of wood is nut!! And the R value is excellent. No but joint neather with tha method..Also 8 feet drywall is cheaper than 10 feet, 1x3 cost almost nothing ( less than 1$ each) , 2 inches Isofoild about 38$ each (4×8). Hope this gives ideas to other diy guys.
Ecuse me me for my bad english, not my first language..
Keep making a great vidio, l enjoy watching.
You can for sure use vertical on wooden framing, just building the framing takes a little bit more planning and effort. In Estonia we only hang drywall vertically
you must have nice 2x4's to work with. Cheers! In Canada our lumber is garbage now!
Love your videos 👌
this is not a standard way of prepping a studded wall in the UK, Nogging out the frame centrally then screwing fixing the plaster board. never seen this method...
I thought about re-drywalling a Condo bedroom with MLV and 5/8 drywall. Then I realized that the little 45"x36" hall that right turns into a 32" long hallway entrance of the bedroom (side wall of closet) with 80" tall doors does not allow 8ft drywall to fit into the room at any angle. The only option is to rip down both sides of the wall and pass the drywall thru the studs or hang 48"x48" pieces.
About that tape-measure drywall trick... I was having to rip a sheet of 5/8" drywall in the parking lot at Home Depot because our Jeep's hatch is
If framing bad enough to need strapping, may want to consider noise channel. Get the benefit of strapping and added benefit of less noise transfer.
Thank you
One more point not mentioned about vertical which we were taught, if not using a horizontal additional framing and directly into stud , if you bump the stud it will flex and crack the the joint, it’s similar ironically how he likes to use plywood instead of wood, by directional rotation you gain overall strength and integrity. Avoid vertical at all cost unless , which again ironically I saw the plywood , use 1/2 ply or strand board over entire wall then you got integrity, but cost goes way up.
Larry Rockey of Shelton Washington invented a devise for floating sheetrock joints! I've used his devise.
When I was working as a labourer back when I was in the UK. They didn't care. It all got a full skim coat anyway. As long at it was properly fixed.
793 views in 6 minutes, that's impressive. Keep up the great videos
Appreciate it. Cheers
Hi
I'm Nathaniel from Ghana West Africa amazing work by all standard
I'm remodeling pur master bedroom, never done drywall before or taping, or mudding. But I have 15 years experience doing auto body work. I imagine that transfers over to creating a seamless joint on a wall.
Nice thing about dry wall is you roll the paint on and it gives a bit of a texture to the 'not so feathered' area. It'll just feel so wrong for you because it really doesn't need a 'auto' quality job
I did my entire house drywall vertical but i did it directly to the studs. The house is from 1930 and it was a nightmare, every new vertical joint got its own new stud since nothing was in the right place for it.
Hey Jeff, what about just adding an extra 2x4 (vertically) at each butt joint so you have another screw surface? Each vertical edge of drywall gets it's own 2x4
Unless the stud is bowed a bunch or so far off the plane that you can’t hit the stud all the way up, IMO not necessary.
The rest of the world just screws directly to the studs vertically when putting up dry wall, it stops cracking of joints and is standard practice in most places.
I do horizontal, and if the framing is off , I just do the "add a vertical 2x4" trick . If the height of wall is 8',then I just throw a 5 or 6' scrap 2x4 behind the butt joint
That's all I did, the rooms were 104in tall, so I bought 9ft drywall cut it to fit, some places I used a full 2x4 lumber vertically others I used off cuts everywhere I wanted drywall screws, there seemed to be way less taping / mudding etc quite quick to do and it's a very nice finish.
I work in commercial construction, where they use steel studs, and all the drywall is hung vertically and they rarely use strapping.
exactly. and they can move studs if not installed properly in seconds.
Personally, I don't really mind finishing butt joints, but I really liked using this method on a recent project of mine. The entire house had ceiling heights below eight feet, and I had to hang and finish all of it alone. At the end of the day it was sensible to avoid butt joints whenever possible, but primarily because boards are much harder to hang horizontally... especially when working alone. I liked it for the ease of hanging versus trying to save a finishing step or two.
If you have to hand horizontal just start from the bottom with blocks or wedges to keep it off the floor 10mm or 2 blocks on the studs if working from the top - its not that hard matey
Funny thing is I prefer horizontal because I find it easier to do
I did one room like that years ago.
I've seen some ridiculous DIY solutions before, but, this one don't take the cake, it burns it!!
You end up dealing with issues lining up drywall with renos pretty regularly. A lot of times screwing a few blocks of scrap to the side of an existing stud is magic to give some wiggle room. Can be a lot quicker and easier than strapping a whole room.
We hang drywall vertically here in the Uk it’s standard practice so there are no butt joints like he said
I called a proctologist for the butt joint problem.
😂
I always do verticals in basements with a drop ceiling only a few joints
Very informative
interesting....in Australia they have 20' long sheets, very little butt joints (obviously). in my renos I attempt to use the longest board I can based on the room sizes, although sometimes you simply cannot get a 14 footer in the space, let along hang it. Horizontal installation adds structural strength (not really needed on partition walls) to the wall. With the cost of lumber these days it would be fun to run the numbers to see if the extra material vs pro finishing is worth it? the locals here used to charge about $500 a room but that was pre-covid. Seems COVID has increased the cost of drywall finishing too! Not sure how as it's only gypsum, PVA glue and some other minerals in the mix. Also the placement of the boards can be affected in a large sunny or lighted area. You can get banding on the wall when the sun hits it if you had a large open south facing room. But then again, that should be taken care of in the finishing stage by the plasterer.
Noggins, sorry "Blocking" would help (not done anymore it seems except when required by code) would help by bracing the studs. Personally throwing some extra 2x4's inside the wall to create a larger framing member where needed seems worth the effort to reduce your finishing time, material and skill involved? I never thought of doing your minimal strapping method, what a great idea! A stud runs about $6 a piece, plywood is $50, doing this in my recent basement would have cost me an extra $200! Cost me much more to do it with extra 2 by material and I hung it vertically.
If you add strapping did you just add issues with air flow over the insulation?
In the UK is standard practice to hang it vertically, very rarely would you hang it horizontal. I've done it 2 or 3 times horizontal in my 16 year career
That doesn’t even include moving all the plugs out to match your new framing.
I just did my whole basement with drywall, all vertical, and not one problem. You don’t have to get every stud perfect, just the one at every 4’.
I used butt joints on horizontal boards. Butt joints = mid span. Floating strip 6" wide from a sheet of 3/4 ply with 2 x 1" strips of 1/8" ply on the edges. Suck the ends down into that dip. Now the butt joint is magically a shallow taper. Taping a cinch. Good if you have the lumber.
We have 6'6" walls in our basement and I do vertical. Just makes sense and it is easier. Never did the strapping. Seems like an unnecessary step IMHO
Yeah, that makes a lot of sense. The average person can reach up 6'6", so no ladder needed like what said. Also, using a full sheet horizontal and then cutting another 2'6" length would be super annoying, because you can't use the other half you just cut off, since it's now only 1'6".
same it’s just easier for us
6.5" walls are significantly less likely to have bowing issues with the studs tho. So there would be no need for strapping at that point. If you have a well framed wall, then no need for strapping either.
Oh wow, I KNEW MY IDEA WASNT CRAZY! This is exactly what I did; I finished sanding my joints yesterday. I was quite worried because I wasnt doing it like Jeff and so many people told me you're not supposed to hang drywall vertically. I figured doing vertical install would make it much easier to tape and mud: In one entire room I managed to have only 1 very small buttjoint. I also figured, as a small added bonus, that its easier to cut sheets on their width than their length. Looking at the end result I'm quite happy I didnt have to do butt joints; already my tapered joints are far from professionnal but will be ok enough for a basement.
The pros do it horizontally to optimize for time but in my situation I figured I'd optimize for my skill level. The cost and time it took to install the horizontal 1x3s i counted as a "Newbie Tax" :)
I thought I was crazy to do it this way so it's really nice to see this video :D
No I'm a pro and its really only America where you fix horizontally, the rest of the world fixes vertical directly to the studs so there can be no cracking of joints from home movement or earthquakes.
wait a few months until all those joints start cracking. This is a terrible way to do it.
@@Hammer.J.Helmer Wrong - if you fix the plasterboard directly to the studs vertically as we do in New Zealand you have continuous backing for yr edges and far less cracking, we literally do it because we have earthquakes constantly so we know all about preventing cracking on finished cladding.
@@ronnymcdonald2543 I didn’t mean directly to the studs, I meant with this silly plywood backer idea. I agree with vertical hanging directly to studs, and have done it that way myself lots of times.
@@Hammer.J.Helmer Sorry, I misunderstood you matey. Yeah the backer idea is rather strange and I should know I'm a 30 year highly qualified builder.
The code for where I live is screws every 6" on the parameter and every 12" in the field, (on 16" studs), I don't see how you can do that with your method, (unless you ran a firing strip every 6"). An option is trim the sheet on each side if necessary for it to land on a stud. You will still have a taper joint, just not as deep. You can easily sister a stud to get some backing for a screw.
$8 right there.
Have always done vertical drywall
I started framing for vertical 4x8 sheets so tired of butt joints ik i culd order bigger sheets but im a lowes home depot guy so 4x8 is all i use
"right to the end of the room" that cracks me up.
When I find myself with a drywall mess, Renovision comes to me
Whispering words of wisdom, let it be
When my mud is too thick,
and the tape all bubb-el-y
He says it's just drywall, let it be.
Let it be, let it be, let it be, let it be
Quick F-ing with it, let it be
I think its just easier to add an extra stud, or use cut offs, or if its a basement just flip the stud flat.
If it’s it’s a 20’ wall you will have the 20’ horizontal joint but still have 4 vertical butt joints right? 36’ of joints vs 32’ going vertical (4x8). Agree I like troweling horizontally better.
Great tip on plywood strips and expanding foam. Thanks.
Sir, what about homes built in the 1950's, where all those vertical wall joists are separated by a horizontal divide and the vertical joists don't line up? They originally used the vertical method of sheetrocking. Would strapping the walls ease the installation process?
Many thanks, you are the best!
Wonder if using plywood straps would eliminate screw pops? Nice video!
Come on, Jeff. Your content is usually spot on, but this "extra work" is way over dramatized.
You can tape the entire joint top to bottom for the entire length of the wall by setting up a walking platform. It doesn't have to be complicated. Just a 2x10 or 2x12 and some upside down empty mud buckets, or right side up full ones. Or for about the price of that plywood, one can get a couple of work platforms. Or make a plank with 2x4's on edge and a plywood top and bottom.
It's a dandy way to do the ceilings too. Besides, if one can't mud a vertical joint without having humps in the joint, how would one fair better on the ceiling?
If your studs are laid out correctly the joints should fall on the studs well enough. If not just tap it over. For a really bad stud just add a scab. No horizontal pieces necessary. Gypsum doesn't care which way the lumber runs. The screws aren't going to pop one way or the other so long as they aren't over driven.
In the 80's we hung it horizontal, and once we started going vertical I've wondered why the hell we ever did it that way.
Thanks, gef
Strapping out walls means all electrical outlets have to be moved out to wall surface. Where drywall edge does not land on stud center just screw a 2x4 on the flat behind for entire length of joint. This will support entire length of joint maintaining alignment of both edges.
Use a stud spacer if you are hanging vertically
Awesome video
Glad you enjoyed it