1998 Dodge Dakota Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Test and Replace
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- čas přidán 6. 12. 2011
- This video documents how to test and replace a bad Manifold Absolute Pressure (Map) Sensor on a 1998 Dodge Dakota pick up truck with the 4.9 V6 engine.
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You are a GREAT mechanic!!! I’ve fought my trucks problem for months…no one else could find the issue and pointed elsewhere. Watched this video and followed instructions and BAM, my truck runs correctly…Thanks man👊
What was it doing
Those are correct. There's a third measure. You backprobe the sensor with the truck running.. The voltage while running should drop to approximately 1.5 to 2.0 volts.
Thank you very much😀
Great video! I tested the map sensor on my 97 dakota. I got 5 volts on the third pin test, but only 4.5 volts on the back probe. Is that still within range? Thanks.
mine does that also, about 5 times before the engine will idle and run good. when it starts to stall the exhaust starts smelling strong, i turn the ignition off and back on quickly then the pattern starts over again. i'll switch the ignition about 5 times before it runs right. after i start it or switch the ignition it will run right for about 15 seconds before it starts acting up. no check engine light and this started happening after the fuel pump was replaced. i got a 02 dakota w/4.7L.
I replaced the MAP sensor and she is running real smooth. Doesn’t shut off but I am now getting codes 108 and 172. Could the new MAP sensor be bad?
Thx for this vid, I'm going to install a new map sensor on my old 95 dodge ram, due to its age and 225k mileage on it I attribute a lazy old o2 sensor and hardened up map sensor I heard happens due to combustion fumes over time which makes it not read correctly causing my pretty horrible mpg at the moment even after a full tuneup. I'll attempt a new o2 sensor too but heard they can be hell getting off if it's an old one. Map and o2 are literally the last things it could possibly be causing my bad mpg...truck is running quite rich, it reeks of exhaust/gas when running.
So what fixed it? Thanks
@@musicstevecom2 doing the tuneup, and new o2 sensor and map sensor years ago fixed stuff as good as I think an old 90s high mileage v8 truck could be...the sensors were cheap enough on rockauto, I believe I used "Standard motor products". The truck still lives on, but mostly as an occasional grocery getter into town and hauling stuff. We mostly use a much newer 4cylinder car now for commute stuff. The truck has a fond spot in my heart, after a string of very junky messed up cars it's been the most reliable vehicle I've ever had...I'm comfy and knowledgeable working on the 2nd gen rams, I think I'll always have one around. I do wish mine was extended cab though.
I just tested the 5vlt reference wire on the harness to the map sensor..i got 0.01 volts...would not go any higher..shorted or bad pcm? Cuz i was thinking if it was lacking ground it would have -0- volts
Thanks brother
On the 2nd pin probing from the back of the connector I'm not getting any voltage. But from the inside of pin 2 with the ignition on I get 5 volts... I don't understand if it's a pcm problem or wiring..
Some of these vehicles with stalling issues from around 97 and 98 have an issue with the PCM. The Chrysler computers that in these have an aluminum circuit board that connects to the main one and the back of that board is literally the plate right under the outside connectors on the PCM. There are few videos on how to fix it, but If it is one like in the video then you might have the same issue I did. The fix is to either get a new computer that is already programmed with your transmission, VIN and mileage or to repair the PCM. On the one I just repaired it was this; The plate under the connectors on the computer is actually the back of an aluminum circuit board that has a circuit that fires the ignition coil and some other things. On it there is a long black connector that spans the length of the board and it eventually gets micro cracks in the solder that hold it in place. Specifically, in the connections that control the ignition coil. A quick test to see if you have this problem is to start the engine and lightly press down on the connections going to the computer, if it dies or stutters then you'll need to pull the board off and solder the connections back on (or get a new computer). It's not easy soldering to a board made of aluminum but it can be done. To prevent this from happening again it might be best to scrape a bit of the coating off the top of the larger traces coming from the black connector and bridge some solder from the connector onto the trace where you scraped it. The potting over the electronics on that board are like jelly and can be picked off if you need to get to the transistors but the main PCM board is coated in a tougher rubbery material. If looking at the component side of the board with the black connector at the top, the transistor that fires the ignition coil is at the left side under the connector and you'll see the larger traces that run to it. Those traces are the main ones that will cause the stutter and stall issues (intermittent power to the ignition coil), but broken connections on the other traces can cause issues as well. A nice thick bridge of solder from each connection to its corresponding trace will work wonders and make that engine come back to life...
I have a 95 3.9 and mine runs fine until its under load or going up a hill and i give it gas and then it spit and sputters and backfires through the intake what could it be?
does this MAP sensor affect slow response to throttle placement while driving also?
I have a 99 durango that is hesitating sometimes on acceleration could this be the cause , i wondering?
its happening to me right know.did you find the problem
Definitely check your timing.
hi i was wacthing yoyr video and you tested the map sensor when i did i got a reading of 4 for both of them is that ok
How were you able to tell you weren't getting any signal from the sensor? I understand back probing the connector. You mentioned getting no signal from the sensor after back probing. Thanks
I am having a hesitation problem that only occurs when I am drive down the road between 50 & 60mph. The real problem is that is only happens maybe every 2 to 3 months. The engine light does not come on when this occurs. I pull over and turn off the engine and and restart it, and it runs fine. I have used Lucus fuel additive and it seems to run better. I will check the MAP sensor. The truck has 168,000 on it, do think the fuel filter might need the be changed too?
fd
Is the ECU throwing any codes?
1997 Dakota dies at stop light etc. at idle, is this a symptom of a MAP sensor? Throttle position sensor was replaced due to at times the computer had no idea wher the throttle was causing backfire and would die driving down the highway. Now I have the die at idle issue. Help and thanks.
Less Opinion did you fix it? What seemed to be the problem? I have a 1997 Dakota as well and mine just randomly dies. Sometimes its after 10min sometimes its like 2min. I tested and cleaned out the fuel Injectors. I replaced the fuel pump none of this worked. I changed the crank shaft position and pickup coil and it seemed to have lasted a lot longer. It finally died out tho. Did you happen to fix your problem?
Some of these Chrysler computers have an aluminum circuit board that connects to the main one and the back of that board is literally the plate right under the connectors on the PCM. There are few videos on how to fix it, but If it is one like in the video then you might have the same issue I did. The fix is to either get a new computer that is already programmed with your transmission, VIN and mileage or to repair the PCM. On the one I just repaired it was this; The plate under the connectors on the computer is actually the back of an aluminum circuit board that has a circuit that fires the ignition coil and some other things. On it there is a long black connector that spans the length of the board and it eventually gets micro cracks in the solder that hold it in place. Specifically, in the connections that control the ignition coil. A quick test to see if you have this problem is to start the engine and lightly press down on the connections going to the computer, if it dies or stutters then you'll need to pull the board off and solder the connections back on (or get a new computer). It's not easy soldering to a board made of aluminum but it can be done. To prevent this from happening again it might be best to scrape a bit of the coating off the top of the larger traces coming from the black connector and bridge some solder from the connector onto the trace where you scraped it. The potting over the electronics on that board are like jelly and can be picked off if you need to get to the transistors but the main PCM board is coated in a tougher rubbery material. If looking at the component side of the board with the connector at the top, the transistor that fires the ignition coil is at the left side under the connector and you'll see the larger traces that run to it. Those traces are the main ones that will cause the stutter and stall issues, but broken connections on the other traces can cause issues as well.
Excellent video but you should explain what was the problem with the truck before you install everything you know bro
Looks like the hardest part was getting the screws back in that awkward spot. Thanks for showing us. Five minutes for you and me and how long for a repair $hop?
Estimate today was 209 from shop. Going to attempt myself.
Thanks for posting the great Video! I have a Question? My dodge dakota 2000 been dying out when it reaches operating speed . I checked the Map Sensor with the connector in reads 4.65 is that ok? and i replaced the IaC already i think that part was good already any suggestions thanks
i have a 2000 Dakota with same issue and changed Crank Shaft Sensor and Cam Position sensor. Stalling slowed down but still happening. Moving on to the MAPs
Thanks for the tip I'll check it out
Kristin Blue did it solve your problem after replacing the map sensor??im having the same problem
My problem while replacing the MAP SENSOR is getting the rubber 'L' to go onto the tube from the throttle body. Three times put the sensor into place, but that rubber piece is being uncooperating. Any good suggestions? Thanks for a reply.
After four failed trys to get the rubber L onto the throttle plate tube with moving to the side away from the nozzle port.....I rechecked my thinking. I slide the rubber tube onto the nozzle first, keeping it centered. Attach screws loosely and with a small screwdriver and bend the top on rubber L back towards you and put in the two screws of the Map Sensor tight. Once the sensor is in place ,, push UP the rubber tube onto the Map Sensor inlet tube, so now it's in place. Started engine,,,ran smooth. This system worked for me, so if you are having the same problem that I had, this should help you. Good luck.
thanks for info and i have a 2000 dodge ram 2500 with a 360 gas and when i stomp on it you can here spark knot and i did a tune up on it with cap and rotar wires plugs and put a tps and iac and can you help
Mine too....did u figure out what it was?
Does anyone know what that tube is referred to at 4:09? And where does it go? I just noticed mine was not leading to anything and I cant find a home for it. Any ideas?
+Jesse Corrow I'm working on mine and ill find out for you.
It's a vacuum line connection or tube. He referred to it earlier in the video after he took the MAP sensor off the carb.
So if the car starts and runs but when you push the gas something heats up and shut it off what would that be
Mines doing the same thing have you figured it out yet?
Io k quisiera saver es de una DODGE DACOTA TROKA de gasolina estandar 1998 motor 2.5 B2200 en el area de la llanta del lado isquierdo en frente en la parte
hi no could my timing be off i have 92000 on it
Iv got a 98 4x4 dodge dakota 3.9 v6 and iv changed everything electronic related and I still can't get it to start up and run put a brand new fuel pump in it bc it was bad guy i got it from said it was the only thing rong with it well if came down to the distributor it's the only thing left I haven't changed so I'm going to swap that out and pray it runs it has rly ben one of the most head ache of a dodge iv worked on so hope it goes well u can turn it over it gets plenty of fuel and it fires like no other after I swaped spark plugs is wen it begane to hit and back fire thru the throttle body so only means one thing it's out of time so u guys wen u by a truck from someone that does not run don't take there word on what should be rong with it thanks
Did the distributor get her running
can anybody tell me where is the speed sensor located on a dodge dakota. 1998
Jofosefe Toforrefes on side of the transmission on the driver side towards the tailshaft of the transmission
Jofosefe Toforre gracias por tods las alludas k me diste.pero no mire respuestas es fani
Ok i aora kien podra defenderme
Should be on side of transmission
Check your TPS.. but the TPS throws the code.. Also check out your alternator..
I got a quick question about this video well more about the map sensor on this Dodge would it cause a multiple misfire and then go away or is that a different problem completely I have a 2000 Dodge Dakota I'm working on and it keeps throwing a P0303 p0304 p0306 andp0300 but the codes only pop up every once in awhile and go away but it runs like it has a bad fuel problem or something just wondering the map sensor would have caused make it to this when we have replaced the cap rotor spark plugs and spark plug wires work for about a week and then the problems come back then that's about three times including replacing the ignition timing sensor underneath the ignition rotor we've also replace the ignition coil twice
Also smelling gas out of the tailpipe we've even replace the oxygen sensors which did pop-up wants when checking for codes but those codes are not come back
You can't test a senor that's unplugged for voltage.
That doesn't work.
You test resistance which then gives you a reading and that reading should be within manufacturer specifications.
The only way to test voltage on a sensor is if it were plugged in, and here it's clearly not so you wouldn't get a reading.
What a moron. Be sure you actually follow what is being shown and explained before you post. Also before you thumbs up a moron's post. I would explain why you are wrong and didn't pay attention but it's obvious it would be a waste of time. Obviously "My IQ is 2 uber" was meant to be My IQ is under 2 but you couldn't figure that one out either.
What about the fourth cylinder
What is the sensor next to it the white one
Idle
I am after cange the new MAP sensor but the chek engine light always.what is problem sir?
Not likely that it's a fuel filter problem unless you've got random sediment issues. If you haven't changed out the fuel filter per the manufacturer's recommendations, then go ahead and do it. Intermitten issues like this are notoriously hard to diagnose. Start by making sure all the routine maintenance that should be/been done is completed.
Its a 3.9 not a 4.9.
get one on ebay for about $12.00
Star bit lol hex!!
My. Sarta. No sart