How to Repair Stuck Sash Windows | This Old House
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- This Old House general contractor Tom Silva shows how to free a painted-shut window. (See below for a shopping list and tools.)
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Tools for Repairing Stuck Sash Windows:
- wet/dry vacuum with HEPA filter
- 5-in-1 painter's tool
- hammer
- flat bar
- drill/driver
- plastic drop cloth
Shopping List for Repairing Stuck Sash Windows:
- rope, used as new sash cords
- 3/4-inch wood screws
- lubricant
- 3/4-inch brad nails
- 1 1/2-inch finishing nails
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How to Repair Stuck Sash Windows | This Old House
/ thisoldhouse
It's pretty rare to be able to correct Tom, but I'd suggest that not only should you *_avoid_*_ prying the window up by placing the pry bar under the rail (bottom),_ you should place *2 pry bars,* one under *each style* on both sides of the window. If you pry on just one side, you'll tilt the window in it's frame, making it harder to pry up, and possibly causing slight damage to the window.
0:28 "Also in the middle you have what is called a 'lock' ". Great to have you passing on professional terminology for the layman :)
There he is, Handymansplaining.
Seriously though he assumes nothing about what we may know and that’s saved me on some other topics.
It's not really a lock, but a latch.
Thanks Tommy, really appreciate you explaining all the components of this assembly!
As someone else said here, tie a knot in the end of the rope, put it in the hole, and then nail it to hold it in place. Also, I would replace the nails on the window stops with finishing screws and washers. Makes it a whole lot easier to replace the sash cords the next time.
Tommy is an animal.
Great informative video! I have one of those window weights that was lying around when I bought my home 30+ years ago; I never knew what it was. Thank you 🇺🇸
Also re-sand the sash and frame removing all that old paint and caulk so the window sash or sashes on double hung windows can easily and balanced move up and down effortlessly.
"Also in the middle what you have here is called a...lock."
😂😂😂
Excellent and very helpful video, helps relieve some of the anxiety for those of us who don't do it every day, but want to do it 'right' ☺
I have been slowly replacing the stops on my old windows and installing brass screws and cup washers so they can be removed without prying and damaging when weights need accessing or I want to remove the entire windows to work on them.
I just love old windows.
I appreciate this video because it is the only one I have seen that includes the metal weather stripping.
The weather stripping makes the repair more complicated.
In this case, Tommy took out the window with the stripping in place. To do so, I believe you have to pull out all the nails (from the window frame) so that the stripping comes along with the sash when you remove the sash from the frame.
Oh boy, on my 1923 bungalow, I scrapped all of my eaves (with me below) and used a paint burner to soften the fascia paint... which smoked and flamed at times, and never took a single precaution. It was 90+ degrees outside, and didn't want to bother with a mask. Hmm, this must explain the conversations I have been having with my imaginary friends.
Have fun with the cancer in a few years
Unless you eat it or breath lead dust, lead isn't toxic just sitting there. I use lead solder almost daily, and even the fumes it puts off are minimal (most of the toxic fumes are the solder, not the lead).
this old house
this old house
Oops
Ha ha !! hopefully you fixed all her windows.. daylight when you started... pitch black when you finish.. love your work Tom.. greetings from Australia
Maybe he fixed some of her plumbing problems while he was there! LOL
Thank you so much for this video. I really appreciate it.
Tom Silva is my spirit animal
Thanks for producing this!! Loads of hidden gems in this vid.
To the haters: Quality film/ audio takes time people- respect the process ;)
1. He did not need to go breaking the paint seal inside (risks breaking something) if he was taking the window stops out anyway.
2. Do not screw cord into window. It was designed to use a knot in the recess on the side of the window. You can see that in the video. You are putting the entire weight of the window on one screw per side. That will fail eventually.
3. Do not use cotton sash cord. Use no-stretch polyester, 1/4" McMaster: 3852T38 or equiv. Do not use nylon. Insects can get at the cotton, and it breaks after a while (hence her problem).
4. Do not nail window stops in place. They are designed to use #6 x 1 1/2 ROUND (or pan) head wood screws or equiv, or sometimes #8. You make the hole a bit larger in the stop for adjustment. You can also use washers if you like.
5. When you have the sash out, you should at least clean the middle rail which you see when it is open. It would be better to paint it so it looks like the rest of the window, inside the upper sash, outside on the lower. It would generally be better to repair the missing glazing, although technically you should take the glass out and fully reglaze it, but that may be beyond your project. You can use latex glaze for repair and it will be good for many years. Old dry glazing can sometimes be helped with a coating of boiled linseed oil before you paint it, if it is still adhering. Note: I updated the rope recommendation, as 3852T38 will work better (it doesn't unwind as easily).
On your first point, it is still necessary to break the paint seal along the stop and the window (actually both edges of the stop) because it is old thin wood and will almost definitely split if it’s painted shut when you’re removing it. Anyone who’s done this will know that. The stops can also easily break. You later say that you shouldn’t “nail the stops back in” because they were “designed” to take screws etc. but these stops on most old windows are nailed as Tommy did. Screws may be better but nails are how all,of these stops ere put in. As for the screwing of the cords, I thought he used two screws per side per cord which seems pretty adequate. The rest of your points seem valid.
@@victoryak86 I have to disagree about breaking the paint seal. If you look at the video, he took a much larger risk the way he did it. And yes, I have done this many times. Okay, I would allow that you can (easily) and should score the paint line with a stanley knife, but he attacked the sash with pry bars and painter's tool to shift it-totally unnecessary and risky. The window (with glass) is far more fragile than the stops. Nails are ABSOLUTELY wrong, because the screws (round or pan head) are REQUIRED to allow some adjustment to fit the sash properly. The cords are designed to fit a knot into the bracket you can clearly see on the edge. That is what supports the weight. A screw through the cord is a foolish (and lazy) way to do this. A screw is not designed to take the weight. If and when it pulls out, you will likely have a mess on your hands. It may be that in this case the bracket was broken or some such, but I think you can see it in place if you look carefully. Now, I will add that McMaster: 3852T38 is a better rope, so I edited that remark. So, thanks for the discussion.
When reattaching the new cord to the sash, find the desired height for the weight then insert a wedge in the pulley so you can work with the cord without any tension on it.
now that is the good idea I have been waiting for!
It would have to be shaped to the pulley so it holds the chord
Instead of screws on the side of the sash, a single, overhand knot is usually tied on the end of the cord, and the knotted rope is inserted into the hole. A single nail can be used, but normally not necessary.
With so many lubricants on the market, thanks for telling us which one you are using
Jesus Tommy. How long were you there? It was bright out when you started.
Only reasonable answer
The women pay with sex
@@TheNetworkingGuy Lmao Nathan
That's the difference between just doing a job, and doing a job while creating video for TV.
😂🤣😂
@NEWEntertainmentWI 😂🤣😅
Thank you
There seem to be discrepancies in nomenclature between Britain and the U.S.
The metal device securing the two sashes is a sash fastener. There are several types of these, my favourite is the fitch fastener because if properly made it pushes the top sash up and the bottom sash down whilst pulling the two meeting rails together on plan. The secondary security provided by the steel dowel is better replaced with a proprietary sash screw. Traditionally these had a head on like a wing nut which allowed easy toolless insertion and removal but less security. The key operated type (which are cheap) offer the best security for a sash window since they prevent forcing of the sashes and can not readily be removed even if the glass is broken.
the beads retaining the bottom sash are called staff beads in the U.K. As one has to remove these to access the pocket this might as well be the first action. The sash can then be freed by levering at the top on either side in turn with the claw of a hammer but gently does it. This is all the more useful on upper floors where one can not simply walk outside. do yourself a favour and cut some new staff beads fitted with a brush seal.
Th access for the weights is the pocket. Screws are not usual. The most common form of fitting is to have a splayed top and a bottom with a halving joint, the pocket being held in place by the staff and parting beads. the pocket should be levered out at the bottom.
The metal draught stripping shown is unknown in the U.K.
On the sash shown screws and tacks are unnecessary to secure the cord to the sash. the side of these sashes have two holes drilled. The lower is to accomodate a knot. Pass the cord through the housing (dado in U.S. parlance and down through the olwer hole and out. a stopper knot such as a figure of eight knot should be tied to secure the cord preventing it pulling back through the hole. In the event that the sash has a plain housing (dado) then the cord can be secured by the traditional method of cut blue tacks. Measure the distance from the bottom of the sash to the bottom of the housing (dado). Mark this height on the stiles (vertical members of the sash box) less 2" (50mm) Pull the weight to the top. tack the cord temporarily. cut the cord at the mark. Tack the cord to the sash at the bottom of the housing (dado). All will now be well.
The biggest impedance to operation of a sash window is paint build up. Burning off the paint will greatly improve matters.
So I got the window bead out but the weather striping is nailed in pretty tight!!
I love watching these videos. Thanks for the details
thin clean scraper,w a semi dull but sharp edge w a hamemr,,tap up down the trim and window joint,both sides,,,,,sand both trim pieces,remove the sash,use a belt sander on both sides,hand sand both trim pieces,,or remove them and use a propane torch and the scraper to soften the old paint layers,,place the sash in the window position w trim set in place,raise the window up and down,replace and nail in the trim,
these windows with the weights seem way better than the ones with springs
Or just get modern windows so you don't have to deal with this nonsense.
Just replaced the cord on two 11 lb weights which might be more than 80 years old. ;-)
I just can't believe I hear the intriguing question from the naive lady on what substance Tommy's applying and he says "it's a LUBRICANT I'm applying to your weather STRIP" and "it makes WOOD slide better". He's not just screwing ropes.
This _is_ TOH style foreplay for a hardcore sequel...
This is really an old house
I have a 95 yr old house. The window won't close even though it has in the past. I can hear the weights bouncing around inside but the window wont budge. I know wood swells and I try it each day to close it. I'm tempted to pry open the pocket that the weights would be in but what do I do after that? Please help. Thank you
old town Alexandria, my hometown lol
Thanks
that "tada" at the end was perfect to lighten up the awkward tone Tom uses.
She asked specifically, at 5:22, "So, what is this", to which he replies, "this is actually a lubricant". That's it? That's all the detail you can give us? It's the whole reason I was watching the video.
thisisfutile try a paste wax. Will probably be good enough
i was thinking the same thing, it must not be sponsored
"Slipit"
Painters should be licensed like any other trade. I have lots of damage by painters ruining a home's trim, windows, hardware, walls, etc.
Thank u very much very specific.
Gosh, this lead-safe work practice leaves a lot to be desired. How about "working wet" by misting the area of disturbed lead-containing paint with water, and damp wipe cleanup; and outfitting yourself and your helper with a respirator?
John Leeke they're only taking a few pieces of trim off. The amount of lead paint exposure wouldn't be that much. Now if they were sanding down the windows and frames then they would definitely need to take those precautions.
There is no excuse when it comes to safety, especially when he's exposing the homeowner to a lead health risk right in her own house.
damn Tommy! it went from daylight to dark in this 7.min episode lol what happened?
The perfect opportunity to scrap and paint the window trim..what’s another two minutes.?
He took breaks showing her how his mustache can tickle her window
I thought the end of the sash cord would be knotted and stuffed into the hole below the slot?
+bg147 that's how it's suppose to be, not sure I agree with those practices, screwing through the sash cord?! I usually put a nail in the middle of the knot but nothing that extreme. If you do this, it should not take you half a day like it did here....
And tacked in with a blue nail about an inch and a half above the hole...The shape of the hole puts the tension on the knot...I guess tommy just figured...Fuck it, I'll be dead and gone before those screws fail...:)
Ha!
The slot is so worn out a knot wouldent stay in place long
the window i did last summer had so many nail holes from previous maintenance that i was looking for a new place to put the next one. These windows can't be replaced, so at some point someone is going to have to find an alternative to the nails.
What is wrong if bottom sash works, but the top sash wont come down, they are double hung.
Did this man really use a screw to hold a rope in place?
I was thinking the same
Dang it I have exactly this problem :( how do I get the 2 clocker off ??
Nice work. I have single hung sashes that predate sash weights. This old house. :-)
Wow. So old they hadn't even discovered gravity!
I have double hung windows. the top sash still works, but the bottom sashes of my 17 windows have all the ropes cut. My windows don't have that cool little compartment....I am assuming the weights are laying down behind the plaster, behind the trim. any ideas?
Dynamite...
I see your post is from a year ago but here goes. Mine are the same. The door to the compartment is on the exterior, where the upper slides up/down. One door to access both weights on that side.
Hey, just wondering, did you guys ever worry about lead paint or take any precautions scraping off the paint?
I like your video and have two beautiful big windows I'd like to restore but reading all of this stuff about lead paint is making me hesitant to do anything about it.
Actually read some of the comments and watched the video again... Maybe I'm worrying about nothing.
What if your old windows don't have those screws to reveal the pocket? I don't see any on the sides of my Windows?
It took me ages to find some of mine. The paint was so thick you couldn't see the screw heads. Also one of the chambers was, (illogically I thought) on the exposed part of the window. However I did find them all eventually.
Mine didn't have screws. Instead the access door was just held in place by the stop bead and parting bead. It sucked to have to remove both.
I fixing sing hung windows from ? mid 1800s they do not have sash weights is there something that I can retro fit the windows with to act as a sash weight
czcams.com/video/xc4qWX3Gwdo/video.html This is designed for modern windows, but you may be able to retrofit with this or something similar. You may have to cut a notch in the frame to hold the spring.
What kind of lubricant is it
5:25 And you used it for her windows as well
Nice video. However, you talked about possible lead in the paint and here you failed to wear protective gloves and a mask
She was easily pleased.
Looks like Tommy replace the light with the darkness well.
Any advice for loosening the top sash? I have double hung and all the tops are painted shut.
I should add that I've already broken the paint seal on the one I'm working on but this bastard won't budge.
You can try a putty knife as a lever. Slide it up where you think you have broken the paint. Are you sure you got the outside? You may be able to work the window down 1/8" at a time and lubricate it when you have it down. You can also take the window bead out if you are really serious about it. Once you have it working you will need to replace the bead. On the other hand, your house may have settled and not much you can do without a total disassemble and refit.
@@burtony3 I eventually got them all open... all 27 windows in our house are now fully functional (bottom AND top), re-glazed, repainted, the whole works. Took me a good several weeks to get them all done but it was well worth it!
2:27 window opening asmr
I know you make it seem easy, but it took to people and you guys also started with daylight out and worked until it was dark outside, so it does not seem like a quick job.
Incorrect, you supposed to put a knot into that round space on side of window.
You also should install a high quality storm windows on outside to save energy and preserve the wood .
Changing the original windows in my opinion ruins the vintage charm of a home.
I just let the window up, heard a click now can't let down. Can you help?
Did you dide?
ugh
Wol can I build something with yall
Man my house built in 1919 was full of windows exactly like these. Over the years the previous owners had cut many of the sash cords, and some had broken glass. Everyone I called to see about having them repaired told me you couldn't find parts, and they wouldn't work on the windows.
I wish I knew then what I know now. We ended up replacing all of our windows.
Still should replace. New windows vs something like these would save you hundreds in heat and cooling over a year, if not thousands, not to mention looks. 100% of the time I am replacing the window.
@@Skebtik generally yes but when you’re talking about $6k to $9k in windows, you sometimes have to make do with what you have.
@@Skebtik Old windows look so much better you cant replicate the detail. The is a big carbon impact of wastefully throwing them away rather than fixing with shutters and thick curtains the energey performance is comparable
@Skebtik That is not remotely true. Common misconception though, when people believe the marketing for thermopane replacements. Properly maintained wood windows with storms are just as energy efficient. Plus, they can be repaired when there's an issue. Compare that to replacement windows that can have the glass seal fail quickly and get cloudy. You have to replace the whole window again. Sadly, modern replacements aren't the maintenance free, permanent solution they're marketed as. I wish they were.
since when you screwing the shash cord ???? OMG
It's really okay. You're simply retaining the rope. Whether you use brads or screws is inconsequential - unless you can show me some rule book on sash cords mandating a specific fastener...my God...give it a rest, it's just NOT that important.
I like screws when restoring, as you can remove and replace the sashes to paint them and can use the same screw hole for the rope! There's probably a little gadget that could be invented for this, but a screw is good enough and much better than a nail.
That vacuum.
hi
what is lubricant name?
You can use a white candle and rub the wax along the cords, do it once a year.
"Slipit"
3:45 that’s exactly what she said.
Mine are double hung windows!
me too. Mine is 1845.
Work smarter not harder use a lead paint testing kit
How do I you replace windows in a trailer
Brian Chilton How do I replace windows in a boat?
This is the kind of lady to have a portrait of Abraham Lincoln under a painting of Jesus.
Fixes window
Gets nailed
Goes home
thats what that mustache is for, lol
You see how many layers of paint was on that window
Those screws will eventually break the rope.
i spent alot of money to buy new windows for a new house im building so it can look like that old house
san379 I feel bad for you?
if you want to buy 'new' sash windows, they will cost you a bloody fortune. Here in Australia, even 100 year old sash windows removed from demolished houses still cost a LOT. New windows are better in every respect, but do NOT suit an old house. I think building a new house that looks old is a wonderful thing to do, really. In my street, this happens a lot and I have huge respect for those who do it, but yes, it must cost them a bloody fortune to do it!
They outlawed lead paint in what year? 1959?
+Brendan Hall please chack my repair software.
+Brendan Hall no..the lead paint was in full use back then.. im told they used lead up to 1978 or 1980..
+san379 No, they assume some people may have been using old cans of paint until the end of the 70s but that's probably highly exaggerated fears.
+Brendan Hall i was taught in collage that the government stopped putting lead in paint 1978 to 1980 and they stopped putting lead in water pipes and solder in 1990... now we use real silver insted of lead witch makes it harder to melt the solder.. and with lead in paint the paint lasted longer and didnt peel off easy like today in a few years... it was used as a binder
+san379 - The government has never put lead in paint, manufacturers did.
What's ''led''?
Icywolfe I'm calling the police.
So Tom... What was the lubricant you used???
"Slipit"
A family sized tub a KY
😒 This ought to take me about 6 weeks to do all my windows
Mr.dan Handyman #📱📲🚞
The reason that it tool so long is the need to do repetitive work for the video crew and the Ask This Old House Program.
Her look at 3:50 hohoho
Mask before working with lead paint
He forgot to hurl the counter weight through the window
2 bottles of Dom?
looks like they need to be replaced
I would like to build a dog pool tel
Just replace it :/
Dang what is that woman like 7 feet tall O/o
Cow boy
To me, it doesn't make sense to do this repair. The outside woodwork looks in terrible shape and there are no storm windows. I have a 1924 property and was charged $400 per window which included new energy efficient pre-hung windows, aluminum outside capping and labor. It looks and performs much better than those old windows.
Yea im considering doing the same. Mine is built in 1920
+Glenn Watkins BUT OLD WINDOWS LOOK OLD AND HISTORIC.. OLD PUTTY WINDOWS LOOK GOOD WHEN THEY ARE RESTORED AND A SIMPLE HAIR DRIER PLASTIC SHEET CAN COVER ANY DRAFTS .. NEW VINYL WINDOWS LOOK TOO NEW
+san379 They feel too new, too. I hate the fact that the drafts disappear and ambient noise decreases!
do you have a photo? and where did you get the Windows?
$400x12windows=$4800.
Maybe not everyone has $4800 on hand and just want to have the ability to open their windows.
NA windows lol
Much quicker to Yelp a professional.
Do you pait sometimes that wooden stuff in america? I see very ugly paint work on yours movies,you should learn from duches how to
Big budget video to be giving such poor advise, putting screws through the rope instead of using the obvious holes provided just shows he hasn't got a scooby doo what he's up to
Maybe you should start your own channel so that we can all sleep better at night knowing you're looking out for everyone with your vast knowledge and experience...
Maybe you should learn how to spell advice before you give advice.
He ties a knot and does it properly in another video, surprised when i saw this too, must be an older vid?
Tom, I would not let you work on my windows, You must have read a hot guide from the newspaper because you were not working as an expert would. The rope for the sash weights are not nailed or screwes, the hole you tucked the end of the rope into holds the knot which ancors the end never a nail or screw which might crack a payne. only one side of the frame needs to have the sash stop remover and you just slip the loose edge out. the windoe sash should have been scraped and sanded the primed and painted not reassembled with-out painting the wood needs weather protected!.
Saul Flores lololol
Why not just replace that old crappy window with a mid grade replacement window? Your already well on your way by the time the bottom portion was out
enginemodify Maybe the homeowner wants to fix and refurbish the old window due to sentimental value. This show is mostly on fixing things on old houses and only replacing what cannot be fixed.....
It's far cheaper and easier to maintain old windows than keep replacing them every few decades, keeping up with the historical value is harder because many newer windows don't match the old ones at all.
Because vinyl windows are turds.
Just an aside I was working on an old historical house and the old windows were preserved, reglazed and repaired as here. Additionally they ordered some high quality custom storm windows for each one that have much better Rvalue and are surface mounted on the outside just lie the old junky ones. Best of both worlds. I’m sure those storms weren’t cheap but an alternative if you want to save old windows and still have some semblance of weather tightness. Also added insulation around windows (except in pockets for window weights).
OMG! Get over the lead BS!
Just get replacement windows...those windows cost a fortune in lost heat
White People: Spend 7 hours and $500 to repair a stuck window
Literally Everyone Else: Push hard until its loose and spray wd-40
So “white people” are the only ones who care to correctly repair a window? It would probably take about one hour to do this whole repair for someone who has done a few. Also WD40 isn’t good for lubricating windows. It gums things up. Silicone is better. And that’s for every ethnicity who wants to repair an old window without wrecking it! Cheers.
thank you