How to make a DIY window insert for noise reduction
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- čas přidán 28. 12. 2021
- Do you get a lot of noise through your windows? Want an affordable solution? I used plexiglass inserts on some windows that face street-traffic and construction noise.
This is a good option if you have multiple noise issues, a limited budget, if you're a renter and can't do remodeling, or you can't find the right contractor. This is something you can do yourself! It's also a good alternative to buying custom-made (more-expensive) inserts from an online window-insert company, especially if you're not sure if they'll solve all your noise issues.
In this video, I'll show you some of the challenges, how and where I bought the plexiglass, and how much noise was reduced (typically, a 10-15 dB noise reduction). The results (and process) weren't perfect, but they definitely made an improvement on some types of noise.
"Just get to the point" - key moments:
2:49 - Introducing TAP Plastics (skip the intro)
3:46 - Cost for first window insert
5:03 - Informal noise comparisons
6:21 - Decisions for second window (larger window)
6:55 - Second window
7:39 - Informal results
Resources:
TAP Plastics (for plexiglass): www.tapplastics.com/
Joiners for connecting large panels (TAP Plastics): www.tapplastics.com/product/p...
Wall brackets: www.amazon.com/dp/B07SX6SM12
Foam on back edges of plexiglass (aka "noiseproofing joist tape"): acousticalsolutions.com/produ...
Foam strips on bottom of plexiglass: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08...
Ribbed rubber weatherstrip lining the inside the joiners: www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Build...
"Helpful Mike's" DIY video: • DIY window soundproofi... - Věda a technologie
Excellent! Thanks for sharing
This video was an easy and informative watch. Thanks for taking the time to document the process. I went from a modern home that was pretty remote to a townhouse sporting what are probably 30-year old windows, single-pane - I realize now I'd become completely spoiled when it came to noise pollution. The worst is somebody in the neighborhood that owns a suped-up Camaro and can't NOT shake the entire neighborhood as he rolls by, it's a pretty fearsome machine. Two windows, with two layers of soundproof curtains provided a surprising amount of effectiveness for what I'd initially wrote off as a hail-mary purchase but it's not quite there yet. I think your inserts would be just the thing to sufficiently address the issue, so it was a real joy to find this video and I'm subscribed now for sure.
I likewise appreciate the presentation of the video itself - it's not overproduced, needlessly drawn-out, or disruptively lo-fi. It's exactly what it needed to be with concise instruction and explanation both through dialogue and visuals. Not everybody who makes videos - regardless of subject-matter - has a knack for finding the right balance of these features, so kudos and thanks again!
First, thanks for the feedback. I'm working on making "better" videos -- from recorded content to editing. The earliest ones (like the one on anti-vibration pads a few years ago) are a bit rougher, but they've gotten lots of views and helped a lot of people (in spite of their production quality), so I leave them up.
As for thin windows and the automobile noise: that type of low rumbling noise, in addition to road construction, is simply the worst in stick-built structures. Our building's original aluminum (single-pane) 1950s windows were replaced in the early 2000s with vinyl retrofits. And I think that although those vinyl windows are better than the originals, double-paned windows might be getting better in terms of noise-blocking options ...and the retrofit process itself probably allows for more low-frequency noise leakage around the framing. I'm really glad that I added these plexiglass inserts, even though I still hear some automotive noise -- mostly a deep bass tone. It would be so much worse without the extra layer of plexi...
Thank you for showing how easy it can be. TAP is the fantastic plastic place after all.
I'm like a kid in a candy store at TAP. I have no valid excuse of why it took me so long to do this DIY project!
"Whats your peace and quite worth?"
-YES
Thanks for the walk-through. I am looking at the same situation to deal with some 1950s single pane aluminum windows in the front of my house (I actually really like the windows). In your case, I think I would have tried to break-up the insert in the same places you have frames, so that it is less noticeable. Sound-deadening also depends on stopping air movement so getting some sort of gap fill between those panes can help too. 👍
Great info thank you!! Just moved to a city centre area and the honking from traffic has been driving me crazy. Going to give this a go!
Thank god you posted this! You saved my life!
As I am researching ways for cheaper window fixes, I absolutely loved your video.
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
Great video and really thorough on all the details which is rare
Thanks! Hope you noticed the second video where I figured out how to join the plexiglass pieces together.
Would this help with neighbors barking dogs? They are driving my family insane :(
Thank you! We have been waiting for a call back from Indow after leaving them three messages. We are now looking into just doing it ourselves. Thank you for sharing this information.
You're welcome. I personally don't like it if I can't look at a cost estimate on my own (through a website) without going through a salesperson. And then unfortunately you might get pursued by a salesperson to make a decision/close the deal after that. I think the results would have been the same if I had purchased an insert with them and not built my own -- that is, the same frequencies of noise would be reduced (or not reduced) if I had bought those windows versus making my own. It answered the question: How much noise is from the windows, and how much is structure-borne?
I went with indow and it took 12 weeks from the day I ordered a single piece, to the time I received it. It worked perfectly for my noise issue, but was costly. I want to help my parents with their own noise issues. This video looks great after searching for solutions for hours.
I just did this for 2 windows facing a busy street. It works great! I added foam weatherstripping around the edges and a long the window frame to seal them in place. Definitely a noticable noise reduction, all for maybe 25% of what Indows would have cost.
That's great to hear! Thanks for the info!
Great video!. I worked for a thermal window insert company years ago. We use vertical wood mullion and two or more sections of acrylic with vinyl frames for the wider windows. They attached to metal L-frames screwed into the window frames with magnet strips all around to make the windows removable. I had barking dogs next door where I used to live, this would have never worked in my case. I literally stuffed insulation, towels and then covered and sealed the window with sheetrock and it still didn't help with the noise. Sometimes if insulation is poor in the house you will still hear noise. It's based on how well your walls and whole house is insulated. But reducing noise a bit will work with thermal windows if you're happy with that.
Totally agree. You probably saw (in a follow-up video that I made) that I did have some mullions that I repurposed to join the three plexiglass panels together. As for the noise -- absolutely. My building is a wood-framed building with thin walls, and it's extremely close to the street. The sidewalk is almost non-existent, and there's no setback. So the low-frequency noise from trucks and cars is coming from the ground level up through the framing. Not just through the windows. My walls are insulated, but all the areas around the big windows are just wood framing (headers, etc.) with no room to insert insulation. So those window inserts block or reduce certain frequencies. But many of the sounds are also coming through the building frame, from low-frequency engine noise to the sound of "manhole covers" banging up and down every time a car drives over them (a much higher frequency). I'm still glad I did it because the acoustics of my neighborhood are really annoying and sound bounces everywhere. For example, I don't hear the loud talking on cellphone calls from passers-by like I used to. To reduce some of the deeper building-frame noise, I would literally have to tear the walls and flooring down to the studs and start over. A very expensive and disruptive undertaking!
@@soundproofist old building code didn't require seal between frame and plywood for air tight. Which create air gap, both noise seeping in and air leaks defeats the insulation. Difficult to fix that problem.
Thank you for the video. I was quoted over 3K for two large window inserts (60x72) and (36x72) by a company in OR(I'm in Az). I just started thinking about pouring my own acrylic insert into a mold and framing but came across your solution which is great. There is no TAP B&M around me (south of Metro Phoenix) but I work with a lot of professional plastic fabricators so I'll give them a holler and see how much they charge for large sheets of plexiglass/acrylic.
You're welcome! I'm sure there are other (more local) building-supply or fabricator-supply shops that sell heavy-duty plexiglass like this. So if you can find one locally and avoid shipping costs, etc. you're all set.
Great job, I had same issue with a big window, 48inches x 104, 96inches is the maximum for almost all sheets, so I made a wood frame and attached the acrylic sheet to it using screws, but before applied silicon between the wood and acrylic , to reduce vibration, then drilled several holes and use the screws to made the attachment stronger, with the wood frame its easier to attach the insert to the window frame and seal any gap with silicon, total cost i would say $400 , same insert from Indow would cost around $2000, but result was amazing, no more noise from neighbors.
Thanks for the info on how you built your window insert. Did you have to drill through the plexiglass? And if so, how did you keep it from cracking? I kind of wish I'd put a wood frame around the pieces -- they'd be sturdier and easier to work with. Anyone watching this video who's good with woodworking, I recommend it.
drilling the acrylic does not crack it, the problem is when screwing, do not tighten too much, the holes should be slightly larger than the diameter of the screw, when screwing you can see the expansion of the silicone between the wood and the acrylic sealing any air gap and help to avoid crack the acrylic, after that you can apply more silicon to any joint between wood and acrylic, this will create a whole sealed piece, ready to install.
Can you send me a picture of how it looks?? It would be greatly appreciated😄
do you mean slightly smaller than diameter of the screw? if the hole is larger than the screw diameter.. what is it screwing? just into the wood on the other side? im confused
Very helpful, thank you!!
You're welcome!
I live near a fwy so there's quite a fair bit of noise. One thing I use is noise dampening drapes that also reduce heat. Obviously that's only temporary but is easily used when I don't need transparency.
Heavy drapes might help a little if you're far enough away from the freeway so that it sounds more like a continuous "white noise" machine than the deep bass rumble of cars. I usually don't recommend the so-called "soundproof curtains," but I think they're helpful for blocking light and some distant noise (like in a hotel room.)
Your experience echos my own, except I installed high-end interior storm windows made from laminated glass that's much heavier than 1/4" acrylic. They were even more expensive than Indows. Low frequency noise is only slightly reduced. Overall, I get about 50% reduction in "ear" noise. Frankly it wasn't worth what I paid. I can still hear cars and lawn mowers. The disappointing reality is none of these add-on window solutions will create total silence or even 80% silence. You'd need a solution of 65 STC and 55 OITC for your windows, walls and ceiling to achieve that. It'd require ripping everything out and starting from scratch.
Exactly. I'm glad I didn't spend money for the Indow inserts, which would have cost 4x what I paid to do it myself. The types of noise that did get successfully muted make the front room more pleasant. But the sound of revving trucks and cars zooming by, the noise from various low-frequency machinery, and of course the jackhammering (which happens often) are basically the same as before. To address this noise, it would require tearing everything out and starting from scratch, like you said. I've considered a home-grown partial approach to some of that wall area. It would be a band-aid, just like these window inserts. If I do it, I'll document it. It would probably involve removing some of the original 1/2-inch drywall, inserting more drywall inside the cavities between each wall stud and edging them with caulking, then adding new Roxul batts for insulation, then replacing the original 1/2-inch drywall with 1/2-inch QuietRock drywall. There are reasons why I can't just double up the exterior drywall. The thickness of the wall in this room needs to remain at 1/2 inch which is why I'd add the extra mass inside the cavity, to keep the profile the same. Otherwise I'd literally need to rebuild the entire room from scratch, including part of the kitchen area, because increasing the thickness of the wall would have a domino effect on everything else. But even with my hack, I think the building frame will still transmit low-frequency and vibration noise.
Thoughts on blown in insulation to the exterior walls? Would that make a difference?
Sound transmission class (STC) and Outdoor/Indoor Transmission Class (OITC) are measured in decibels (dB) and are the standard method for rating sound attenuation characteristics of glass products and window assemblies. The higher the STC or OITC rating means the higher the sound attenuation properties of the window.
is the full frame sliding inner window provided by citiquiet better soundproof than window panel insert? it is more expensive for sure but if windown insert cannot sound proof car noise, id rather go with the more expensive full frame sliding window inside
Oh wow 😔. Well, u both answered my question. Will this help with vibration, low frequency noise, which is what is plaguing me at night. It's a vibration that keeps on coming. My friend suggested the window is acting as a subwoofer and we must try to break it down into smaller frames with wood beams and add insulation rubber on the part facing the window. I have not tried this yet. Wanted to do the acrylic insert.
I really like your persona. Great video!
Thank you!
Very articulate. Thanks
Thank you!
Great job!
Thank you!
I came across this video while doing some research on DIY window insert. I have double pane glass windows with around 40 db moving traffic noise. I was planning to do something similar, ordering TAP plastic and weather stripping. Looks like it won't resolve the issue. Thank you for the detailed video explaination
You're welcome. In general, I'm glad I didn't buy the expensive custom-made inserts from the well-known company. As I knew before I started, the noise issue in my apartment comes from the wood-framed building, too. Also, my street is on an incline, so cars rev their engines as they pass my windows. All of that creates a lot of low-frequency noise. And that's not going to be fully eradicated with just a layer of 1/4-inch plexiglass. The decibel readings are technically reduced, but 52 decibels of low-frequency noise is way more annoying than 52 decibels of conversation. I'm still glad I did it, because it successfully reduced certain types of noise, like idling car engines (but not revving engines) and other airborne noise.
@@soundproofist I live in the "obnoxious" side of Texas (overcompensating large trucks, mustangs, and motorcycles that are revving and rumbling through my street.) I was planning on buying inserts for these; but from what I was told, inserts are simply not enough for low frequency. Have you made any additions? I am going absolutely manic and even considering buying laminated glass windows, breaking my old home's drywall and putting hat channels and mass loaded vinyl. What are your thoughts? Thank you for being such a good example. The beginning statement rang so true to my ears: "I don't want to spend a lot of money chasing the wrong solution." I can't tell you how many times I told myself that while being extremely manic with the noise.
@@superpaul4245 I have similar issues -- lots of pickup trucks revving and delivery trucks rumbling past my building all day, and the building is very close to the street. Plus lots of construction going on in my neighborhood all the time, 6-7 days a week. I also need to do something about the front wall -- but I thought I'd start with the window insert first because it was less expensive and labor-intensive. And I wanted to see if that one change would be good enough to live with.
The next step is to replace the drywall with QuietRock. For various reasons, I don't have the budget nor the desire to remove the entire wall and build a new decoupled wall. It would be a major undertaking because I'd have to dismantle the kitchen cabinetry and counter and resize them because they butt against this wall, and any change in the wall thickness will set off a domino effect of other repairs. It would become a remodeling project. And even after that, I might still get that low vibration via other parts of the building frame (like through the floor joists). .
So what I intend to do is score and remove parts of the drywall by the windows, insert additional drywall between the studs (facing the street) inside the cavity to add more mass inside. Then add Roxul insulation, and replace the original 1/2-inch drywall with 1/2-inch QuietRock drywall. It will add some dampening but it won't be 100%. This way the replacement wall will be flush with the original drywall and I can just do a part of it and see if it helps. I suspect that a lot of the noise is coming in through the framing around the windows and in the corner where two windows come very close together, where it's just 2x4s with no insulation. Each baby step is a small improvement, but it will never be perfect.
@Superpaul I feel for u. I can't sleep at night due to vibration noises, and when they are strong, i feel them while I lie on the bed. I assume they are coming from industrial factories in the area, km's away, but bass sounds are long waves and easily travel through walls, windows, etc. I can hear it sounds like it is coming through the window, and so i wanted to insert acrylic, but now I think it won't help after reading comments.
I live in central Texas and after the past new year eve, I have decided to finally do something about the noise. I have double pane windows in my brand new house. However the noise was so loud I felt like I was in some war zone. I went outside to see if someone was firing the fireworks outside my house. Nope. It was five houses down the street. The noise was incredible and my dogs were in panic mode. I drugged the dogs up but it didn’t help. Maybe something can cut down the noise.
I got to play with tilt and turn windows at my friends place in Germany and Belgium. My goodness they are good. They are getting popular in the US now, atleast in NYC with most new constructions
Aren't they great? I wonder where the NYC contractors source them from. I found a company in Canada that makes them (NeuFenster), but I'm not sure if they're easily available in the US. They should be.
@@soundproofist They are wonderful. I took videos when I was in Europe and sent them to my families.
There are a few stores in NYC that import them from Europe. Another company Zola makes them here in the US
@@soundproofist Also with soundproofing I can just buy plexiglass from any hardware store correct? They are the same as TAP ones?
@@kartenalexos8348 Yes. If your hardware store sells 1/4-inch-thick plexiglass (minimum thickness), you can buy it there. If you buy it thinner than 1/4-inch (like for picture frames), it won't be as effective against noise. It will flex and it could possibly crack.
This is awesome. Thank you. :)
You’re welcome!
Apparently this also helps w/ cooling and heating--cooler in summer and warmer in winter.
I guess I'll find out this summer! I bet if I'd left that blue film on the plexiglass it would definitely help filter the sun and keep the room cool. I do think it's helping with retaining heat during the winter.
Velvet curtains with the silvergrey blackout linings, also insulates against the heat and cold infiltration. Should improve acoustics a bit, in rooms as well.
Thnxs a lot yes helpfull 100 and good info;)
Ma'am thank you so much for this
you're welcome!
I admire your hutzpah. I have an old home with single pane (seriously) and am thinking about doing the same thing, I will build wood frames and route a slightly oversized groove to accommodate the plexiglass, using caulk to sort of set them in place. I will let you know how it goes. I have never heard of tap plastics and will check them out.
It's worth it, especially if you have only single pane glass right now. In addition to TAP Plastics, I've found at least one other company, Acme Plastics. They might also cut to size, but it looks it costs a bit more than TAP, per sheet. Both companies also sell polycarbonate plastic, which is even stronger than plexiglass and unbreakable (but also more expensive).
@@soundproofist Thank you so much for sharing all this information and providing those references. This goes such a long way for my family. I'm already a big support of your channel.
I hope the polycarbonate plastic from Acme Plastics works. I was in the middle of purchasing indow insert for $860 + shipping now I will test your recommendations. Of course not the same but better than nothing.
@@belalkoura1602 Glad you found this helpful. I'm curious -- did you try this yet on your windows?
@@soundproofist Yes I have and it works. I did come up with a different idea that worked even better. I did some research and it was recommended to have as much dead space as possible between the window and the Plexiglass.
So the idea is to purchase larger dimensions of the plexiglass to place on the window sill and perfectly place it there. Two inches larger than my window box dimensions.
Before placing it on the window sill, I used adhesive weather seal strip around the entire plexiglass on all four sides (it will flush against the wall).
Placed it on the window sill then had to lock it in place. Therefore, I drilled in window screen clips to lock it in place and had the weather seal strips flush against the wall.
@@belalkoura1602 Great to hear, and thanks for sharing your story (and technique) with us!
great video, what's the app for the sound measurement with frequency?
Thank you. It's an iOS app named "Decibel Meter Sound Detector" in the App Store. I like it because it offers dBA, B, C, and Z, and stores records to the phone.
Good stuff thanks!
You're welcome!
Is the air pocket needed to reduce noise? Considering following this solution for a sliding french door situation, however there's about 1/4" usable space on the two sliding panels. Thanks!
Yes, the air gap helps to reduce noise. According to "The Master Handbook of Acoustics," when two sheets of glass (such as in a double-paned window) are mounted together with an airspace of 1/8 to 1/4", they're more effective for reducing heat or cold transmission, but less so for acoustics. I think using a plexiglass sheet that's slightly thicker, with an air gap of 1/4" might help reduce noise transmission, but I'm not certain of low-frequency noise reduction (from my own experience), which has other dependencies.
I heard you mention Energy Savr weather inserts. I'm mainly looking to solve cold weather drafts, do you believe this Plexiglas solution resolves both? Assuming the proper air gap for dead air space is taken into account?
Yes, it resolves both. My apartment retained heat very efficiently last winter after I added the plexiglass. Possibly even more than the flexible vinyl weather inserts that I used for a couple of years from windowinserts.com. Those inserts didn't really stop a lot of low-frequency noise, but they suppressed cold drafts from the windows. (The company asked me to test them for traffic noise.) Their product is very affordable and they build them with frames to fit inside your windows.
I made another video about how I added a sheet of 1/4 plexiglass below a skylight in my bathroom and it also kept that room warm, when previously it was noisy AND freezing cold.
Ty
Good video, thanks. I wonder if adding sound-proof foam panels and possibly even sound deadening curtains would yield greater noise reduction for you. Of course, you have multiple windows you'd have to treat... plus who knows, given your building walls...
My target window is 94X45 - it's the only window in the bedroom and is double paned. This garden apt bldg was built in the early 60s and while it seems clear that it's been renovated since then, who knows what type of insulation is in these walls. I don't have any complaints with hearing neighbors through walls or floors - the main issue of concern is noise at night that too often prevents me from falling asleep, and then the usual early morning culprits throughout the week that wake me up prematurely (damn that sanitation company). I'm finding regular use of ear plugs to be uncomfortable (at least the rubber canal insert type ive been using).
I'm considering trying a big grid of 12"X12"X2" sound proofing foam panels to start. The inside frame is such that I could easily(?) line them up together (likely with the help of some light adhesive/tape, wedging them all into one solid "panel" right up against the window. Is it at all conceivable that this might help? A set of 24 of these panels can be had for like $45.00 off Amazon. If this would not be effective, then I wonder how a combination of plexiglass AND these foam panels might fare...
Foam panels won't stop outside noise from coming in. The same with so-called "sound-deadening curtains." You mentioned the noise from sanitation trucks, which is loud (and low-frequency) noise. You might also have car/truck traffic, leaf blowers, etc. This kind of noise would go right through fabric, foam, etc. It's already coming through your building frame. Putting foam panels on the walls might absorb some of the sounds that you make inside your room, but it won't block or absorb outside noise from coming in. Especially that booming kind of noise. You need more mass, more density. What I think might work in my building -- which is similar to yours, I think -- is to remove the existing 1/2" drywall, cut and insert soundboard (or cut pieces of gypsum drywall to fit in-between each wall stud (about 15 inches wide each) adhered against the inside of the exterior wall to add an extra 5/8" of mass inside the exterior wall, inbetween each stud. Then insulate every cavity in the wall with Rockwool, replace the original insufficient drywall with 5/8" QuietRock, and mount the QuietRock either on furring channels or on joist tape or some other way to keep it from making direct contact with the wall studs. Of course you might introduce other issues. Like your flooring, for example, if your original walls were only 3/8" or 1/2" thick and the floor was laid to those specs. Or it could turn out that some of the street noise is also coming through your floor. One more thing before I end this long and inconclusive answer -- I've found some earplugs that don't hurt as much inside your ear if you're a side sleeper, and you can find them on Amazon. Search for: "Howard Leight by Honeywell Laser Lite High Visibility Disposable Foam Earplugs." They are multicolored yellow/pink and very inexpensive.
@@soundproofist thanks for your thoughtful response! my local tap plastics has a 1/4" double wall corrugated extrusion that they say might serve well as a plug/insert (the guy said he uses one for insulation on a few windows in his home) - would "only" cost $75 for my needed size... was thinking of trying it, along with several heavy moving blankets affixed to it somehow - if I roll the dice and try it, will report back!
@@rawjhaw Let me know how it works out! Do they have :"corrugated extrusion" on their website?
You need some clear polycabonate H-profiles to hold the 3 panels together. It exists with 1/4 inch channels so it would fit perfectly yours.
Thanks. After I made this video, I found that I already had something in my apartment that I could use ("mullions"), and I made a follow-up video about it. But more importantly, I found "joiners" for sale at TAP Plastics that I didn't see when I was in their store. And these would fit the panels together perfectly. And you're right -- they're "H" shaped, with an opening on either side to hold a panel on each side.
@@soundproofist awesome, they should hold very well together with that. Thanks for the video.
Hi there, thank you very much for this video. Funny, I was watching helpful Mike's tutorial first, and then your video came up afterwards. 😊. Question. Did the acrylic sheet come with that frame around it? It looks like aluminum? U then added the weather strip to that frame it looks like?
Hi - there's no frame on the plexiglass inserts. But there were several things going on in this video that I can explain. First, before I made the decision to do the plexiglass, I had some removable, lightweight "storm window' Inserts on those windows. The small window used a single insert, and the big window came in three panels. They were made of lightweight vinyl (very flexible) and they had aluminum frames. They weren't "soundproof," but I repurposed a couple of them when I did the plexiglass project. In particular, I used one of them to hold the plexiglass in place in the small window. I did the small window first, and I hadn't yet seen the Helpful Mike video. In hindsight, I should have cut the plexiglass to fit OVER the window frame and onto the wall, like I did with the big window. But instead, I cut it to fit inside the window frame. And it wasn't perfectly square and the dimensions were slightly too big, so I had to just "smash" it in. Then I put the storm window over it again because I wasn't happy with the plexiglass propped inside the window on its own. The second thing you might have seen is that on the big window with the three panels, I put some foam backing on the side where the plexi touches the wall, so that the plastic isn't smashed directly on the drywall. I had some adhesive-backed foam that was the size I wanted (not too deep, but wide). It was joist tape, which unfortunately is lime green. So you might have seen that and wondered if it was a frame. The third item isn't shown in this original video, but I made a follow-up video to show the types of joiners you need to buy if you create a multi-paneled plexiglass insert, like I did. I had something already called "mullions" (left over from the vinyl "storm" panels) and I just repurposed them for this project. However, those joiners are thicker than necessary -- they were made to fit around the foam edging of the storm windows. I filled the gaps in them with weather stripping. But TAP Plastics sells the right-sized joiners that fit snugly and hold each panel together. I hope my explanation makes sense!
@Soundproofist hi there, thank you for the very detailed explanation 😀. I'm writing in from Cape Town, South Africa 🇿🇦 so no Taps plastic here lol. I have abandoned this idea anyway after reading your comments section and seeing that the acrylic won't help for low frequency and vibration noise, which is what is plaguing me. We are now trying to move after being here 3 years. It's sad we don't want to move. Oh well.
@@taryna425 Sorry to hear you might need to move. You're lucky if you're able to do so without a tremendous increase in housing costs. To clarify, my window inserts do reduce some low-frequency noise if the noise is farther away (say, 50 feet or 15.24 meters). But not if the rumbling sound is directly in front of or below the window, say, 4.5 meters away. However, you've given me a good idea to create a directory of international locations for buying plexiglass sheets, since this is a global channel, and I used a local example. For example, in Cape Town, you might have looked into some companies already. I see one called PM Distributors that might have the right acrylic materials: pmdistributors.co.za/plastic.html
Would love to get recommendations for reducing vibration noise that comes from behind vent that runs behind drywall from washer/dryer of owner in floor below (exceeds noise ordinance Regs based on db reading but no support from city on enforcement.
Is the noise coming from the dryer exhaust vent (duct)? Or is the vibration noise coming from the washing machine below? I'm guessing it might not be on anti-vibration pads. Or it might even be leaning against the wall, which would cause a lot of wall vibration. First thing to tackle is the source.
@@soundproofist Tysm, the noise is from both the washer, dryer and room fan (the dryer exhaust vent travels behind a shared wall)
@@CherryBlossomHill So, sounds like the dryer, washer, and room fan are all your neighbor's and should be on anti-vibration pads. As a negotiating tool, you might want to offer them to your neighbor as a gift. I think a lot of people are clueless about the vibration noise they transmit because it actually doesn't sound as bad at the source as it does on the receiving end. It generates more low frequency noise in the building frame. As for the duct / exhaust in the wall. I've seen products that you can wrap around a duct (or even a duct liner), but I have no experience with them. You would have to open the wall to "soundproof" the duct, and I doubt you want to do that. I have double drywall (second layer is Quiet Rock, and of course) on the wall that's shared by my neighbor's washer and mine. It muted some of the noise from the other apartment. But a lot of the noise also goes through the flooring. So that's another thing you could try, doubling the drywall on the shared wall. Each one of these things helps, but is not 100%.
Hi, where did you get the rubber window seal, thanks great video
Thanks. Do you mean the bright green seal that I put around the edges of the plexiglass where it will press against the drywall? That's actually joist tape, it's thin foam with an adhesive backing. I just searched for it and it's kind of expensive these days ($59). See: acousticalsolutions.com/product/green-glue-noiseproofing-joist-tape. Amazon sells it also, same basic price range, under the brand name "St. Gobain."
Thinking of doing this myself in my house although I won't be able to cover the sliding glass door that's in the room I'd imagine putting in acrylic sheets into 4/5 windows in a room should remove the excess noise especially from kids (I live near a park).
Are you happy with the results still?
I think the extra plexiglass works pretty well for mid-range frequencies. My neighborhood often has kids playing outside, neighbors gathering outside to chat. Plus the random people who walk by talking loudly on their cellphones. These kinds of sounds are pretty well muted by the extra plexiglass. I can hear them (it's not silent) just enough to know that someone might be outside, and sometimes I don't hear them at all. Also a normal passenger car or van, sitting outside and idling, is pretty quiet and sometimes I don't hear it it all, which is incredible. However, low-frequency noise that's close by (say, under 150 Hz) -- like cars, trucks, or motorcycles hitting their accelerator just below me, the weekly street-cleaning trucks, and the porta-potty cleaning truck that comes weekly for the construction project across the street -- are still audible and sometimes annoying. This is where I need to deal with modifying the front walls, a project that's complex and which I've been postponing. So I think you will benefit from DIY window inserts for the kids/park sounds. If you've got leafblowers right under your window, not so much. Also I wonder if you might be able to build a second sliding door over the existing sliding door. I've never done that, but it might help. Is the existing sliding door double-glazed already?
@@soundproofist Thanks for the response.
I'd imagine it would be hard to control noise coming from nearby vehicles yes (I can hear them through my walls sometimes but there's nothing to really do on that front).
They are not double glazed. Unfortunately I'm a renter though so doing any permanent installs would be a no go. Even the window inserts are a pricy investment but at least could be potentially taken and brought with me and re sized for a future place.
Sound waves are mechanical like water waves. Im wondering if the window isn't perfectly water proof, sound will seep in but much more than water would because it's thinner.
The air gap between the insert and the actual window also helps to stop some noise transfer. BUT.. the vinyl windows in this building are retrofitted from the original single-paned aluminum windows from the 1950s, and there could be imperfections in the installation, since they're not original. Also the front wall of the building is only 4 inches deep and it's made from wood, so that's not much of a barrier against road noise. The window inserts help for the mid-frequencies but not the lowest frequencies.
Thank you!
You're welcome! Glad it helped!
@@soundproofist i just got a quote from the company I think you were referring to. Insanely expensive for what they are.
@@jmpattillo Yes, I got a quote from that company, too. I'm glad I didn't spend all that money, because the window inserts on their own -- in my case -- don't solve all the noise issues in front of my building. They help, but really I need to put more mass into the front walls, and more dampening.
Thanks so much for sharing this. Is an insert that is pushed into the window opening more effective than placing the acrylic on top of the window? I saw Helpful Mike’s install that you featured in this video and I was curious which is more effective. Thanks!!
Shoot - I have blinds installed inside the window and I don’t know if I can take them out.
In terms of effectiveness (amount of sound blocked), they might be equivalent. However, there are some things you need to keep in mind if you make an actual window insert versus the overlay (the "Helpful Mike" version...which is super helpful). First think about your window coverings and if you have window frames, or just cut outs in the walls. If you have a frame around the window and it's not flush with the wall, you'll need inserts. But if you build an insert, you need to measure each corner precisely, preferably with a laser tool. No window is perfectly rectangular and the dimensions could be off just enough in one corner to make it not fit right. That's what happened to me on my first window. You want the plexiglass sheet to be smaller on all four sides, and held snugly in place with a flexible rubber or silicone gasket. But then you also need to think about "how do I get it out?" because you might want to open the window. So, will you put handles on the plexiglass or build a frame around it, with handles? If so, will that compromise the plexiglass at all? Also, if your window is large enough to need more than one panel across your window you don't want to piece these together on the inside of the window frame. It's much easier on the exterior, as I did for my large window.
@@soundproofist Hi there, I apologize for the delayed response. Thanks so much, I think I might do the overlay because I’m worried I’ll mess up the measurements for an insert. It’s good to know they seem to have similar effects. I was worried that there would need to be an air pocket with the acrylic closer to the window, but I don’t know how that works to be honest.
To confirm, a frame would be like a wooden frame around the window? I’m sorry if that’s a dumb question. My window just sits inside the bare wall with metal around the glass and a window sill at the bottom. It’s 47” high x 46.5” wide and I found a place with 48” x 48” pieces of acrylic. That should be ok right? I think I read that you recommended 1-1.5” extra room for each side (apologies if I got that wrong).
Lastly, would going thicker than 1/4” be inadvisable? I’m hoping to block a lot of sound since I have bad hyperacusis but I don’t want to mess with things since I’m very much new to it.
Thanks again SO much, I will definitely look through your other suggestions as well - they seem great!
@@SsssAt I don’t think there is any harm in going thicker than 1/4 inch. Of course it will be heavier. In general, you want something soft between the plexiglass and the wall, or the inside of the window frame, to stop the direct transmission of vibration from one hard surface to another. Since I don’t know how to attach handles to a window insert without destroying it or reducing its effectiveness, I need to research how to build one with plexiglass (it’s easier with wood, etc). A window that’s 47 inches high with 48 inch plexiglass should have just enough clearance with the plexiglass on the windowsill. A little more would have been great, but if the opening doesn’t exceed 47 inches, it should work. On the sides, you’ll actually have a little less wiggle room, maybe 3/4 inch on each side. It’s tight, but with a 1/2 inch strip of thin foam on either side and firmly held against the wall with mirror clamps or something, you’ll just squeak through.
@@soundproofist Thanks so much. I ended up getting a 1/4 x 50 x 50 sheet that came in today. I’m a bit worried about the extra weight/size, but should it be ok as far as staying on the wall? I was hesitant to try doing it in two sheets.
I also have a weird question - I’m leaning the sheet against a wall due to lack of space in my house. It has a slight bend from sitting against the wall. Will this warp/bend the material permanently? I need to clear space to lie it down but I was concerned I would bend the sheet and that it wouldn’t be flush when it came time to install. Apologies for all the questions and thanks again for your help.
hello,i actually build a very similar one for myself to prevent the dog barking sound, but i found out it barely help.. of course i did a poor job, theres some gap and leak between the window frame and the insert... can i say to leave no gap/leak is very important for this kinds of insert? thank you
It's important to seal the perimeter of the plastic window insert, whether you insert it inside the window frame or attach it to the drywall around the window frame. You don't want sound leaking through that gap. However, you do want an air gap between your original window glass and the plexiglass insert. You don't want your insert to touch that glass. The air gap between these two helps with reducing noise. But you must keep the noise from escaping through the gaps around the sides into your house. It might not block the dog barking completely, but hopefully will reduce the volume.
Awesome information! I can't wait for electric cars for this reason:)
Thanks! Electric cars -- because they won't emit that low-frequency "boom!" that goes through walls and windows?
There will be some asshole that will invent some aftermarket add-on for electric cars to make them just as annoying.
@@vashon100 perhaps, however, increased awareness regarding the health issues related to noise in combination with electric semis gaining traction (all ready see it with mass transit) will not allow these for lack of better words "rectums" to hide in the minutia of noise plumes of our transportation. If we speak up in conjunction with $$$$ (best talking points) we can have politicians make local governments money either charging a fee for that noise that can be used for earplugs for the sane people or penalties for breaking the law. The latter would be much appreciated 🙂.
@@functionalvanconversion4284 Probably penalties (as in ticket$) could help reduce the modified (extra loud) cars, as well as vehicles that run red lights with impunity, drag race on city streets, and so on...activities that seem to be on the increase while enforcement seems to be on the decline. Now I need to find some data to back up my assumption: when did enforcement stop in a city, and if at the same time, complaints and incidents increased.
@@soundproofist your observations seem to match mine. I have noticed in our town that police are starting to actually enforce the law, so perhaps that will help. Unfortunately as people of all ages continue to lose the ability to move with their bodies, vehicles are a way to get the sensation of virility.....or maybe I am reaching. Whatever the case younger folks are looking not so good to to sedentary lifestyles.....too much video games and fast and furious 🤔
Hi! I Moved into a new apartment and there is a road right beside my unit. I was looking into doing this to reduce traffice noise coming in through my windows. I have a 70 Long 38 inch wide window. Do you think adding 2 inserts per window will help reduce sound more than just a single piece?
Is the existing window single or double-paned? I would start with just one plexiglass cover over the drywall, like the one I did for my 94-inch wide window, which will sit on the outside of the window frame and not on the inside. Unless you have wood framing around the window that prevents putting a sheet of plexiglass over it. You should use two pieces of side-by-side plexi with a joiner in the center. So the height of each piece might be 39-40 inches, the width of each piece might be 36-37 inches. You might be getting road noise through your walls, also, so don't assume all the noise is just coming through your window. I wouldn't double up the layers of plexiglass. I'm working on a video right now about a possible treatment for inside the window frame (when the plexiglass is sitting on the outside of the window frame). Should be coming out soon.
I'm still searching for a good compression sealer/tape to attach to the insert. For some reason I am having difficulty finding a real solid adhesive compression type strip to use for the insert. I'm open to suggestions.
Do you mean the green "soundproofing" foam tape that I used to press the plexiglass edges against the wall? I'm actually not happy with the one I used, either -- probably because it's such a clashing shade of green. It was wide, and not very deep (maybe 1/8?) but it doesn't fit with the color scheme. I'd like to replace it with white adhesive foam and make it look like part of the window frame. Or did I understand your question correctly?
@@soundproofist First off...I'm a guy...we usually don't care much about aesthetics. But after I sent this I did find a sight that gave a clue to the stuff I'm looking for...wait for it..."Baby Bumper". I have some coming from Amazon to check out. Thanks
@@stevend984 "Baby Bumper" -- I never thought of that! By the way, in the video I show that I put some thick foam at the bottom of each sheet of plexi, and somehow those pieces of foam have shifted over time and they're no longer aligned at the bottom of the plexiglass (on the windowsill). The plexiglass is mostly just sitting right on the sill now. I think I'm going to add rails along the windowsill, instead. I'm surprised at how much some online sellers charge for these rails (especially plastic ones) but I think I might find what I need at a local building-supply store.
Haven't built them yet, because haven't ordered the plexi yet. Plan to do a trial 1 first, with grey backer rod, slit, around the edge. There is also pipe insulation already pre slit.
I would think that installing a window insert would help reduce cold air from the outside, similar to factory double-pane windows. My sister has double-pane windows and on cold days I couldn't feel cold air flowing when I placed my hand close to the windows like I do at my apartment.
It really helps. The front windows in my apartment were already double-paned (an improvement over the original single paned) and they're warmer, but I think there are still air gaps, which I can hear on a windy day. If you see my most-recent video about the skylight -- that was a single-pane skylight and the room was so cold and noisy. Putting a single sheet of 1/4" plexiglass into that skylight has kept that room the same temperature as the rest of the apartment. It's 68 degrees now, not 58 degrees!
@@soundproofist Bravo!
@@soundproofist In winter 2022, I experimented with window film. I had 60 X 60 (the last) single pane window. I made wood frame insert and wrapped window film both sides. It works amazingly well, don't feel the winter chill at all and the sun is much warmer. Only thing is the wood frame bend while the shrink film tension pulled. My next try will be one side plastic sheet and the other side window film. Since the plastic sheet is in the slot of wood frame it will strengthen the frame. I had the insert 48 X 96 made in the wooden frame 40 years ago, it helps on my single pane window the time. but not as effective as double window film.
@@ThePetessf That's interesting. I think the air gap created by wrapping the film around the wood frame must have created both thermal and noise insulation.
@@soundproofist yes,if you seal all edges it sure do. My frame bows, still I can tell the difference right away. Kitty just scratched and broke the film catching bug! Will see what to do in the winter. LOL
Thank you. Did you build a frame to fit the plastic?
I didn't build a frame for the plexiglass sheets, but I think it's a good idea, especially if you're going to put them on and off a lot. Or if you have a situation like mine, where the window is so big that it requires multiple sheets of plexi just to cover it. Aesthetically, it's better, too.
@@soundproofist so what is that "frame" around your plastic insert
@@aaabbb-py5xd I have no frame around the plastic. I used some metal brackets on the wall that I bought from Amazon. There's a small gap (not a snug fit) and I insert shims into them. Around the plexiglass edges, on the wall-facing side, I put 1/8" thick foam where it touches the wall. However, at the time I did this video, I only had bright-green "soundproofing" foam strips, which don't exactly match my color scheme. At the bottom of the plexiglass, where it sits on the window sill, I put adhesive foam strips that are 1/4" deep or so. However, these are starting to separate from the bottom of the plexiglass and I'm going to replace them soon with some 3/8" plastic tracks that I just recently bought from a company called Outwater Plastics. I'll affix these tracks to the window sill to hold the bottom of the plastic sheets in place.
@@soundproofist Thanks very much for the detailed explanation, and thanks for the video too sharing the experience. I'll follow suit and try the same. Ever since nearby construction cleared out a row of trees, road noise has been a nuissance, and the cost of professional inserts just was too much
@@aaabbb-py5xd I'm glad I did it. I couldn't afford to order custom-made windows, but I got basically the same effect with this DIY. What really surprises me is how much air was also leaking through my existing windows. If there's air coming through, noise was also coming through. The inserts kept my apartment really warm for the rest of the winter....though maybe a bit too warm in the summer. And finally, the window inserts don't block all noise and all frequencies, but for example, this morning the trash collector trucks came down my street I could hear them, but it was a manageably low sound and not overwhelming, like before.
Cary, would you know which one soundproofs more: acrylic or polycarbonate? Is one of them stronger than the other?
Polycarbonate is definitely stronger than acrylic. I considered buying it when I was at TAP Plastics because it's very hard to break. However, it's probably better suited for windows at the ground level (like, shop windows) where you want to prevent break-ins, or anyplace where you don't want a window to crack or shatter. As for whether polycarbonate is more soundproof, I don't know. I'll see if I can find some data.
From what I can see about polycarbonate, its strength lends to being effective for noise reduction, also. The main detractor is the higher cost. I'm still looking for comparative noise-reduction results between acrylic and polycarbonate.
@@soundproofist is polycarbonate not as easy to cut?
@@mollyliz.236 I'm guessing that it's harder to cut, since it's designed to be break-resistant. If I bought some (for a window), I would get it cut for me at a place like TAPP Plastic. They've got equipment for thta. However, if you want to make modifications later -- let's say you want to drill a hole in it for some reason -- it might be hard to do with home tools.
I have German double pane windows, but they leak a lot of noise, too! :)
Sorry to hear that. How are the walls in your home?
@@soundproofistThe walls are not the culprit, it is really the windows. Because when I put my ear to the wall, I can't hear anything from the outside. And then I put acrylic sheets in front of the windows and it really helps!
@@anaesterhazy631 That's a good test (listening to the wall). I'm glad the acrylic panels help!
@@soundproofistYes, they do and I didn't even have to take the thick ones like you did. I took 2mm, but fortunately I have more than 20cm air gap between the windows and the sheets. But then again, I have a different type of noise (more high pitch noise, dogs barking and kids screaming) than you do.
Your ideas helped a lot and also from Helpful Mike--thank you!
@@anaesterhazy631 My plexiglass sheets block that type of noise pretty well (dogs, screaming kids, people talking on their cellphones below my windows). It's the low-frequency noise like truck engines and cars accelerating hard that still comes through. Another plus for the plexiglass window inserts is they help my apartment retain heat better in the winter.
Hi,
How can we achieve 46 STC rating wooden frame glass partition (double glazing). Can you put one video for that
What kind of noise are you trying to filter out? Companies that make double-glazed windows claim to get 48 STC already, but I think it depends on the kind of noise. Are you doing the double-glazing yourself or ordering a custom window?
It was helpful. How do you let air in now.
This is a large area that on one end is a kitchen with one large window, and it has no additional plexiglass. So I can open it anytime. And the other end is a living room area with two windows. Those two living-room windows got the plexiglass. The larger of those windows has three removable plexiglass panels. If I need more airflow, I can just slide out one of the plexiglass panels and open the window.
@@soundproofist Sounds good. I've got large sliding aluminium windows. Near impossible to do.
@@MAC...007 Depends on the size. Our original windows were aluminum-framed, single-paned glass that was not openable in the center, but on each side, there was a hand crank that opened the side windows outwards. Those were replaced by vinyl windows with double-paned glass. The center pane is still stationary, but the smaller windows on each side can slide back and forth horizontally on a track to open. And the plexiglass (which is removable) sits in front of that on the windowsill, so I only have to remove one panel to open a side window. I admit it's a pain to remove it and put it back, so I only do it if the weather is super hot.
Can you tell me the brand/model of a really good German sound "proof" window?
There are several companies in North America now that make, or import, the German-style windows. In Canada, there's NeuFenster. In the US, there's Seemray (offices in Ohio, I think). Another commenter on this thread said that these type of windows are getting more popular in NYC now, and mentioned another another company that offers them: Zola. In particular, check out Zola's "passivhaus" collection: www.zolawindows.com/passive-house-windows
Very Interesting video. I have replaced broken windows. Glass for normal sized windows is cheap. A double pane window can be created by putting silicone caulking between two panes of glass. I wonder if you could could layer another layer of glass on top of the double layer of glass. By cutting glass slightly smaller, taking the window out for a day in order to allow the sealant to cure and then just putting another slightly smaller layer you might be able to create a cheap triple pane window. Now the question of if the sound is coming through the pane, or coming through the window glass is not clear to me. On some windows you might even be able to hold glass onto the windows using a mirror mounting bracket. To seal the windows one could just put a piece of wood trim up the windows and have them close onto to the piece of trim. You could also add some sound absorbing materials into the room. You could cover the wall with decorative cork/cork board a product known to have exceptional sound absorbing properties. Thanks for the ideas.
Would adding a third pane of glass on top of the existing window frame work -- like what about condensation? Also, I think our current double-paned windows have some type of gas in-between the two panes of glass -- argon, possibly. The extra layer of plexiglass over the drywall DOES help with specific types of sounds (mid-frequencies) depending on the distance. So for low-frequency sounds outside the window, it's not effective. For conversation, or cars idling with the engine on right outside the window, it's very effective. But if a car accelerates hard and revs the engine outside (lower frequency), it's still pretty loud and annoying. That's because some noise also comes through the thin front wall, as I suspected. I have an idea of how to modify that wall without triggering too much of a domino effect that would make me have to modify other parts of the room. But it requires demolition and some creativity inside the wall cavity. BTW, adding sound-absorbing products to the walls inside of the room won't make a difference with the outside sounds coming through the wall. It has to be absorbed or blocked in the cavity and decoupled before it gets into the room. And I don't have a lot of space to work with, unless I want to dismantle the whole kitchen and modify the length of the countertop and the kitchen cabinets, which go right up to that wall (nope!)
@@soundproofist I am not totally sure how much sound is coming through the glass verses the frame. It is true almost all modern windows are filled with special gases. Condensation could be a real issue. Because the windows are already double pane, unless you have a lot of condensation issues with the double pane windows you should be able to add a third pane without much additional issues, but that would be a bit of a guess. One could purposely leave it open to allow some moisture to vent out. One might also just frame out a window frame that fits inside edge of the window. On the wall, covering the entire wall with an additional layer of drywall is a proven way to reduce sound. There is special acoustic caulk and glue and there is also special acoustic drywall. Putting another layer of drywall up will cut down on sound transmission. Drywall is very cheap, the cost is mostly the labor for putting it up the special acoustical drywall only gives a small marginal benefit so one can use regular drywall. Thicker is better. Putting an additional one or even two layers of drywall will cut down on sounds through the wall. It gets complicated because then to get a good result you need to pay close attention to details near heating, cooling, electrical outlets and more. The sound can go around instead of through.
@@cryptickcryptick2241 Yep, if you've seen some of the Soundproofist videos about Green Glue layered with QuietRock on top of an existing wall, I think it works pretty well. And I did that in another room. The problem with the front room is that it's both a kitchen and a living room, and if we simply add more drywall on top of the existing drywall, we'd have to dismantle most of the kitchen: take down the wall and floor cabinets, dismantle the countertop, the sink....and then cut some of them down to fit. Because they're custom built to run end-to-end across one whole length of the room, up to the front wall. And it's a snug fit. Adding an extra 1/2" on top of the front wall means the counter and cabinets would need to be cut down, and that might set off a domino effect of additional problems, not to mention the cost! That's why I'm thinking of demoing/ replacing the original drywall with 1/2" QuietRock, stopping just before the cabinets and counters and leaving the original drywall in that corner, which hopefully will make the retrofit less noticeable. I *wish* I could make the wall thicker than 1/2", because even though it's dampened drywall, it's still not a lot of mass. That's also why I'm thinking about adding additional mass inside the wall cavity, to compensate for what we can't add on the outside. Of course, when I finally get around to this, I will document it in detail, along with results.
@@soundproofist If I were you I wouldn't worry about the kitchen. Just cover the portion that is easy. Stop the drywall and run a piece of wood or trim up the wall (to give it a nice edge.)
@@cryptickcryptick2241 That's probably what I'm going to do. Unless I want to dismantle the kitchen cabinets, counter, and sink, and cut the pieces to fit after the new 1/2" drywall gets added, I will need to end the add-on drywall before it gets to the kitchen window. This is the one window that doesn't have plexiglass on it. That might be kind of weird -- it means single drywall for about the last 5 feet of this large room -- but it's better than nothing.
Also, there's another "gotcha." As bad as the 1950s construction was in terms of acoustics, it was made worse by someone who remodeled this place in the 1980s. This owner added another layer of flooring on top of the original flooring, but it's not an acoustical floor nor is it a floating floor. I think he was probably trying to mask the noise that comes in from the apartment downstairs (and it didn't work). And the extra layer of floor (and it's TILE!) probably goes all the way up to -- and touches -- the front wall, no caulk or anything. And then the owner replaced the baseboard on top of it -- or worse, he might have cut the baseboard to fit over the extra layer of floor. This will be uncovered if I move ahead on adding the extra layer of sound-dampening drywall, and it might be a real headache! (It might also be contributing to some of the noise.) No matter what I do, I will encounter some issues related to this 1980s poorly researched remodeling.
can't tell what you put on the edges on the plexiglass before you put it in the window
I used adhesive-backed foam strips that are 1.5" wide and 1/8" deep. You can order something similar from Amazon, but the size I wanted was back-ordered till January. I already had some Norton joist tape on hand (the bright green foam tape) and it had similar dimensions to what I wanted, so I used that tape on the back of the plexiglass sheets. I attached it along the top edge, along the left side, and the right side. Those pieces of foam will get pressed against the wall. I listed the "noiseproofing joist tape" in my notes for this video, because it's similar to what I used. Typically this tape is used on floor joists to reduce impact and squeaking of the subfloor on top of the joists, but I figured it would be good to use for this project, also. But any kind of wide foam strip that's not too deep might be good.
Do you think it would be worth it to do on windows in an area that has a sliding glass door
So... just to be clear: what is the problem you're trying to solve? For example, traffic noise, construction noise, neighbor's barking dog, etc. What kind of building? Wood frame, single family home or apartment? Urban or suburban? It sounds like you're also wondering if it's worth it to put plexiglass on the windows when you also have a sliding glass door in the same room. And it won't get extra plexiglass and could continue to leak noise. Correct? If so, this could be similar to what I did, where I have a large room that's divided into different areas (kitchen / dining plus living room) and I put plexiglass on the living room windows but I didn't put it on the kitchen window. It still made a difference, but it didn't solve all the noise issues because the traffic noise is structure-borne. That is, even if I put plexiglass on the third window in the room, some types of rumbling, low-frequency noise would still come through the walls and floor, and those need to be addressed, too.
Neighbors dog!! Suburban and yes that’s exactly what I’m wondering if it’s worth it to do the windows if we have the sliding door.
Also do you have somewhere where you list all the materials used? I see where you got the acrylic but not the foam or padding, or weather stripping insert to insert it with and fit it in
@@angelagarofalo-qi2fm I list some of the materials on the companion page for this video: soundproofist.com/2021/12/30/how-to-reduce-window-noise-with-plexiglass-inserts/ however I didn't post links to the exact items. These are all things you should be able to find at Ace Hardware, but I might have the packaging still and I can look up the exact name. One thing I don't recommend now is putting the thick piece of adhestive-backed foam on the bottom of each piece of plexiglass. The idea was to stop any vibration coming from the windowsill into the plexiglass, however, the foam that I used was too thick, and eventually slipped out from under the plexiglass and left a sticky, glue-y residue.
@@angelagarofalo-qi2fm I'm not sure how well this would work in your situation, and it might get unwieldy, but I wonder about hanging heavy sound barrier sheets over your sliding door when you need to block the barking dogs. Something like this one from Audimute: www.amazon.com/Audimute-isolé-Sound-Absorber-Absorption/dp/B081K8FW3V
Have you looked into off gassing from the sun's heat? Thats my mAin concern
No, I haven't, but you bring up a good point. I wasn't aware of any odor when I first installed these, but I also did it during the winter. They sure do hold the heat inside, though.
@soundproofist might not be an issue since acrylic doesn't have bpa. Just something to look into. Dont want any health issues.
Hmm I'm curious if you put two phones with the app one behind the Plex and in front of the Plex to see the difference would be interesting
That's a good idea. The exact same app with the same settings (same threshold setting, same type of decibel like "dBC") and see if the readings are different. I'm guessing there might be a difference in decibel readings, but the low frequency coming through might be almost the same for both. Totally worth documenting on a video (thanks!)
Dam lady, GREAT Videos..... Love them... But part of me says move out to the country lol less noise....
Ha! Thanks. Part of the issue is definitely the locale. In the US, people talk louder and are sometimes less considerate, cars are bigger and louder, houses are flimsier, materials used on roads and walls reflect sound, etc. These videos are a band-aid to help people make the best of a less-than-optimal situation. And also to help educate (I hope). Depends on where you live (in the country) because some people are ending up with manufacturing plants or crypto mining or other kinds of noise they didn't expect.
@@soundproofist try Spain :D 5 am its like a war outside
@@moodu1850 I've experienced some 5 a.m. noise in Spain! Mostly people who stayed up all night partying in the streets and tossing bottles...
@@soundproofist i am talking about real Spain and not that tourisric BS.. living in a real Spanish town where everyone has a dog on their patio or balcony , where scooters and tractors without exhausts are going theough narrow little streets, everybody watches tv in their balconies or patios because inside is too hot and everybody is constantly shouting because … well they are the kings of the town 😂
@@moodu1850 Thank you for the intel - "never move to Spain - no matter where in Spain" has just been added to the back of my hand....figuratively.
How do you get fresh air ?
This room has three separate windows and I only put plexiglass over two of those windows. Also, because I put three separate pieces of plexi over this large window, I can remove one of the pieces on the side and slide the window open. But most of the time there's so much noise and construction going on nearby that I have to keep it shut, anyway.
@@soundproofist yes me too I must keep the windows closed unless it’s the middle of the night and it’s raining . Ugh !
Cant the noise also come through wall airconditioners.
Yes, unfortunately noise can come through in multiple ways. That's why soundproofing often involves more than one treatment or iteration, and it can get expensive. I already knew the problem in my apartment was more than just the window, but improving the windows helped. The walls are also too thin and they need more mass. And if you have air-conditioning or HVAC vents / ducts, that's another potential noise path. I wish there was just one cause and one solution. But most buildings aren't constructed with soundproofing in mind.
Is there a panel for sound and one for insulating🤔
Hi - do you mean is there a material or product that does both? Not that I know of. I wish! The "over the drywall" technique *might*.help if the framing around your existing window is poorly insulated, though.
@@soundproofist a specific material that works best for insulation. I might not mind the sound so much, but maybe something that works best for insulation would also keep sound transmission down sum.
@@jasonbowman7190 Well, assuming that you still want to see out of your windows, that eliminates things like window plugs with insulation material in them. Those would be overkill, but they would help to keep the heat in and block the noise... but you'd be living in a "windowless" environment. I'd look into the window insert company that I mentioned to someone else here, if you think lightweight, clear vinyl weather inserts in custom-fit aluminum frames might help. They're not super effective with noise (maybe a couple of decibels), but they use the same type of clear vinyl that gets used in refrigerator lockers in food warehouses. The company I know of is EnergySvr Window Inserts in Nevada: www.windowinserts.com and I think -- for example -- a 36x48 inch window is about $85-$90. You can use their online tool to do estimates. Am I on the right track with what you're looking for?
@@soundproofist thank you, I am trying to plan out filling my window jams with a plastic or cling wrap frame. I may look into the best shades or blinds to insulate. I guess my paella windows are able to pop out of the frames, and thought about buying a couple of windows for winter that let's in as much 🌞 heat. Or place a greenhouse on the s side and pump heat into the house when possible. I will look into the companies that you recommended. 👍
@@jasonbowman7190 These are all interesting ideas. I've seen some of that sheet wrap at the hardware store that you apply with heat (I think?), but I never tried it. That won't make any difference with sound, though. Do you have a lot of windows, and are they large? If so, I can see why you might not want to invest a lot if the results are uncertain. The greenhouse/heat pump idea is really interesting. Definitely an advantage if you own a home versus living in an apartment. I have to say that my plexiglass window inserts do help with retaining heat in the winter, especially since those windows face south, and east. Lots of sun comes in, the room gets warm, and retains the heat. The walls are also insulated, and so is the ceiling in that room.
how about using noisy neighbors or music ?
For this window, music wouldn't work unless it's coming from a car hovering on the street with an exceptionally loud stereo system. What I really should have done was capture a lot of "before" scenarios of the typical noise issues before I got the window inserts, like: full-sized FedEx truck revving past the window, garbage-collection truck, car with engine idling (but not accelerating), etc. and then capture each one of those things again with the inserts in place, in the exact same spot. When I did this project, it was the week between Christmas and New Year's Day, so traffic and activity was lighter than usual. Instead of constant traffic, I had to wait for trucks to come, and eventually I just wanted to get started with the building the window insert. Maybe I should make a follow-up video and remove the inserts again for comparison... maybe a week or two BEFORE Christmas, when there are lots of trucks!
What frame did you use to keep the plexiglass?
Hi -- I didn't put a frame on the plexiglass for either of the two windows. The main difference between the small window (with one sheet of plexi) and the big window (with three sheets of plexi side-by-side) is that I tried to fit the plexiglass inside the window frame of the smaller window. And with the big window, I cut the plexiglass bigger than the window frame dimensions so that it attaches to the drywall around the window frame, instead of trying to fit the pieces inside. I actually wish I had done the same with the smaller window -- cut it larger than the window frame. Or else I should have made it smaller and then built a frame for the smaller window. But it was my first attempt...
from the winDOW to the WALLL
i wonder if you had another phone to put in the window to get the difference
I used two phones: one for the decibel meter app and one to record the sound as well as the readings for the decibel app. However, the iPhone has some built-in noise cancellation, so some sounds aren't recorded exactly as you would hear them in person, especially the lower frequencies.
Sound is vibrations. Any solid objects like plexi-glass will not work. You need to absorb the sound vibrations
True. The plexiglass is less effective with low-frequency noise (vibrations) that are structure borne and close to the building. The vibration goes beyond just the window itself through the whole building frame. But the plexiglass is fairly effective with loud or vibrational noise that's farther away from the building (75-100 feet or more), and also effective with nearby airborne noise, such as people who pace back and forth under the window, talking loudly on their mobile phones, or cars that idle underneath the window (not acceleration noise, but just normal idling).
I wanted a plexiglass window insert from a company called Indow, to sound proof a window in my apartment, my window is 5' x 5', 7". Indow wanted $1,650.00 to make it for me. I said no thank you. I am in the process of ordering plexiglass to make it myself. It will cost me under $500.00.
That's exactly it -- and why I made this video. Especially for big windows. Thanks for your feedback!
@@soundproofist Thank you for your video. I hope you found some peace and quiet after you completed
your window treatment.
@@ocljtc It's helped a lot with certain types of noise. The walls in the front of my apartment are thin (the drywall is just 3/8") and insulated, but not soundproof. Not enough mass and no decoupling. So the window inserts can only do so much. The inserts cut the mid frequencies, so that means I barely hear car engines if they're idling outside, or conversation, or activities half a block away -- those used to be much louder. But what they don't cut is low-frequency noise (under 150 Hertz). So a truck engine revving under my windows, trash-collection trucks, a leaf blower, or construction equipment (jackhammers, etc.) still come through the whole building frame. It's much better than before, and I'm glad I economically added the inserts. Someday I hope to redo the walls, but it will require a full teardown.
@@soundproofist I see. It's a shame how noise pollution doesn't seem to be a concern for legislators anymore. I call politicians from in and out of my district, asking for laws to be passed regarding loud music at night from vehicles and people with portable speakers. This is what I deal with on a daily and nightly basis.
@@ocljtc This happens in a lot of communities. Even if you have a noise code, it might not get enforced. I live in California and there was a time when cars would be ticketed if they had loud exhaust pipes or played music from stadium-level speakers. But modified car exhausts and general street noise have increased in recent years. Some issues can get traction if there's enough data to show cause-and-effect harm, like glyphosate (finally) or smoking, but noise seems to be in a category that's more like sugar, which is clearly harmful but so prevalent (and even pleasurable) that no one has the will to legislate it, apparently.
What were they thinking in the 50s not insulating buldings. Its a horror show!! Id almost rather be deaf.
They probably were thinking of the most-economical ways to build something to the code requirements of that era. Particularly multi-unit buildings. The developer didn't plan to live there. They didn't know nor care about acoustics. Also, sometimes people who remodel an apartment can make it worse if they don't know much about acoustical impact. I hope these videos can help. My building sounds like an acoustic guitar, and over the years, some of the apartments were improved on in small ways, but the building as a whole doesn't have a comprehensive solution. (I'm glad I have my hearing, though.)
Very "smart"... to talk while you demonstrate what the cars sound like before and after you placed the pane.
It's an audio narration (voice over) track that I added after capturing the video. So the readings on the decibel meter are from the car or truck driving by, not from my voice. In a more-recent video, I measured leaf blower noise at different windows (open and closed) and determined that the extra sheet of plexiglass decreases the decibel level by about 4 decibels.
@@soundproofist
You're missing the point.
Most people aren't interested in decibel decibel values, it has no meaning to most people, and that app is just a joke, it's not any way accurate, and I talk from experience with it.
To measure decibels you need a hardware device that is specifically made for that purpose.
Having said that, what matters most for us viewers is the sound we're hearing, yet you decided to place your voice partly on top of the sound that the cars generate, which is not a very bright move.
Brick up the window. Open a new window facing away from the road. Code requires a means of escape from the room.
And now you cannot open the windows anymore. What a joke.
You must not have watched the video. The large window has three panels so I can remove the side panels and slide the window open on each side. And there's a third window in the room (not shown here, but mentioned) with no plexiglass on it at all.
Where does one get the energy saver insert?
Those flexible weather inserts I was using (before the plexiglass ones)? Those came from a company called "EnergySavr Window Inserts," and their web URL is www.windowinserts.com. They make them with aluminum frames lined with foam at the edges, and the center is clear, thick vinyl.