I like beeswax a lot more than oils. I've made quite a bit of horse tack and saddles and oils were not performing well, or lasting long enough, so I switched a few years ago...wish I had started with beeswax. I also do a fair amount of woodworking and beeswax mixed with orange oil (Howard) works great, plus has a nice smell. Recently, I hand-rubbed my boots with the mix, going to see how it holds up over time and in different weather. I already got them wet and they are beading water after a week's worth of soaking them with water spray from cutting tile with a wet saw. Hope you have an update in a few months of how your sheath wax his holding up. BTW, I used to use 100% Neatsfoot Oil (not compound because it breaks down the leather over time) and had a problem with it forming a mold in high humidity (Missouri), that's when I tried beeswax.
Thanks for your comment. I also like beeswax more than oils for almost everything. The challenge is getting it to carry into the material. That's why there are so many products that mix bees wax with other oils. The oils help soften the wax and act as a carrier to get the wax to penetrate. That's why I quite enjoyed this hot dipping because there is no need for a carrier and the leather is fully impregnated with wax. It seems like oils that are liquid at room temperature always experience some kind of volatilization or "gas off" and that's why they disappear over time. I haven't had that problem with 100% bees wax.
I've had a crock-pot full of beeswax for almost 40 years. A chip brush applies the melted wax when re-assembling double hung windows - after renewing the sash cords - to both sash and frame. Melt the wax in with a heat gun for permanent, dust-free lubrication. Small, exotic wood 'coffee table boxes' brushed with wax and heat gunned, a pad of steel wool to pick up excess, provides a finish to the interior of the box to make it airtight and smell great. (I never tried it on leather though)
Good work! I hardened so many pieces in hot wax - so much fun. Pro tips: the hotter the wax the tougher the piece will be. The hotter the wax the shorter time needed for hardening and less wax will be left on the piece - no further need to put it in the oven. Watch outs: threads - natural might be damaged by very hot wax. Very hot weather and strong sun will soften the piece and the wax will start sweat a bit Too hot wax (boiling, smoking) will destroy leather almost instantly Leather with wax while still hot will be very soft and moldable - unless it is fixed/completed as is on the video have a molding form ready.
Cool project and video! I wax all of my leather fixed knife sheaths, for hunting, camping, and teaching wilderness survival. Rather than dipping them entirely in a wax solution, I’ve just used sno-seal and a hairdryer, or heat gun, applied to the outside, in multiple pass for a deep protection. I wouldn’t want excess wax, getting on the blades, or the possibility of gritty particles bundling up inside the sheath, potentially damaging the blade. And the sheath ends up retaining some of its suppleness. I used the same technique for jackets, hats, pants, etc, and have found the Kuhl wax bars work well. Cheers.
Thanks for the comment! I have done the same with my sheaths in the past. I was surprised to find as little residue with bees wax as the sno-seal. I have no concern about building up particles inside the sheath. All the wax was absorbed into the leather in the oven
Great video. Ive started using homemade Greenland Wax on gear and its a great preservative. My only observation is that waxing, as a technique, is somewhat dependent on the environmental conditions. The extreme ends of the spectrum can present issues. In arctic cold, wax can become like plastic, and make some items practically rigid. In extremely hot conditions, like deserts, wax leaches out of items, plus its frequently in the melted state. Everywhere between the extremes is fine, and soaking leather in wax is a brilliant way to preserve it in perpetually damp and wet environments where leather would normally rot.
Hi I always wax my knife sheaths because it stops the leather from stretching and prevents blood and other bacteria from building up in the leather. It also makes it easy to wash clean.
Thanks! I enjoy carrying my knives this way...as long as the sheath has a nice tight fit. Very concealable and accessible and it doesn't hang down and interfere with my legs when I'm bending or sitting down. Have fun with it!
Gonna tell you what I did to care for my BRK made Blackjack Halo in A2. Treated the knife itself in EEZOX. Best preservation for carbon steel I've seen since 1987, that's how long I've used it. For the sheath, I hand rubbed a LIGHT coat of Cetaphyll skin cream onto the bare leather, since its very gentle and as long as you don't slather it works. I mean LIGHT. Then I used ballistol to treat the leather since Lexol will darken carbon steels with a quickness. Then I applied two coats of solid mink oil. All by hand. At the time I lived in SC in high humidity and heat. The knife stays in the sheath. It was purchased well over a decade ago. It hasn't ever red rusted, I have to pay the thing to even get it to try to patina. Sheath is still supple, baseball glove brown and no rotted stitching. Had I known about this earlier I would have bees waxed it probably
Have you ever tried Pecard Leather Dressing? I think it is beeswax based; I've been using it for decades on everything from gloves to wallets to vintage 1930s camera cases, and the results have always been very good. I learned about it ages ago from a museum curator who was in charge of some civil war era leather uniform kit, and he claimed that it restored a rock hard 150 year old ammo pouch to quite supple after immersion in liquified Pecard Antique Leather Dressing for a couple weeks. I've never had to immerse, but I've certainly applied melted/liquified Pecard with excellent results.
I don't know about using wax. But on my leather safety boots and leather tool belts, etc. To preserve them, I use Mink Oil. I heat it in the tin and make it liquidy. If it's too hot and you apply it to a spot on your leather boot. I know it can discolor because it sort of burns it. So I let it gel and it's still very appliable, somewhat liquidy and I spread it with a good rag. After I wipe it off and it really does a good job. On the body of whatever I'm coating and I pay close attention to the stitching. Give it a good rub off after. Looks great and feels very pliable.
Using a hair dryer to warm the leather and brush on melted wax or wax/oil blend and work it into the leather with the hot air, then wipe it down and buff it with the knife in it for wet formed sheaths like that. Beautiful sheath and especially waxed!! I need to build one for my Buck 110 now! I plan to wax the Apache style moccasins I’m gearing up to build.
Thank you just found your channel, a very interesting and informative video, I have just subscribed and will look up the rest of your videos, I have used beeswax on a few of my sheaths in the past, but the wax was store bought and came in a jar semi solid, I just put on with a cloth, they turned out pretty well and as you say it does turn the leather darker. I did heat/melt wax before but that was to rewax a Barbour type vest Thank you again Take care Sam ( N.Ireland)
Thanks, Sam! Ireland is definitely a place where leather needs protection from the elements. Hope to visit there someday. May the road rise up to meet you!
I love that look. I have a pair of shoes that I had made where they asked me what to do about the sole and how I want it dyed. I told them: No dye, a boat load of wax then hit it with an iron.
I tried for about 2 months about 30 peace's of leather to get the hot oil and bee's wax combo with zero luck there is a video made at the Bob Loveless shop of dipping the sheath in there oil and wax combo with zero change in the color of the leather . They held this recipe close to there chest as did Bob dozier at his shop . I used so many combinations of oil and wax I can't even remember. The answer is out there just not here with me . Happy trails
Great video, that leatherwork looks beautiful. In regards to the wax on the card holder, my concern would be that business cards would have a residue after awhile of carrying. I noticed that my cards seem to pick up any sort of grease or oil if set on a home countertop or on a table at a restaurant.
Dan, thanks for the comment! So far, so good with the wallet. I was worried about that too, but it's surprising how much the wax absorbs into the leather. There's not really any residue left on the surface. I think it's important to set it in the oven for a while after dipping it. But yeah, my cards are staying clean.
Hey man, just stumbled on your video due to the algorithm on CZcams. I’ve got a standard buck 110 with the s30v blade and have been carrying it in the original black sheath for 3 years straight. It’s been with me since my first fire season in 2020 and constant off season work during my 6 months or so downtime, anyways I see you’ve crafted a scout style carry belt sheath for yours here in the video and I’ve got to say I love the design you’ve came up with. If you are actively selling that model on any platform i’m interested in picking one up from you at any point if that’s possible. Thanks for the good watch and keep ‘em coming definitely subscribing by the way!
Thank you sir. I appreciate that feedback. I may sell some in the near future. I will post a video when I do. I I’ve really enjoyed carrying the 110 with that sheath. It is more quickly accessible than a pocket knife. I also fought fires for several years. It’s a rewarding occupation.
This turned out great. Years ago a sheath maker made a sheath with fire steel loop for me for a custom fixed blade, and dipped it in beeswax I think after. There was some excess wax I had to work out, but the knife “clicks” into place, and of course the leather is very stiff and completely waterproof. Since then I just use Pecard’s shoe oil on my Bark River sheaths, which darkens them nicely and waterproofs them, but keeps the leather supple. Q: What kind of wax do you use? Just household wax, or canning wax? Any specific type to look for? Love the look of your knife holster now.
@@wyomingwright Oh,right, just watched again and missed the “Bees” reference at 2:42. That’s a great resource for you. Perfect, thanks. I have a big bar of beeswax I break chunks off of to use in a lead pot to bring up dross. I can pour it off after into ingot trays. I think I might need to buy more to get this much though. But first I have to make the pouch!
Have done this with many different types of footwear and an I'm generally disappointed with the results.No matter how much I buff out the wax initially, eventually with cooler temps, I see the wax on the surface began to whiten, and flake or crack with bending. I also see a lot of fine dirt accumulation. I have switched to Mink oil on my leather, I find it much superior. Definitely will darken light tan leather a bit though.
Yeah, I hot waxed the first knife sheath I ever made, for a fixed blade. It lost a lot of retention after about a year of use. I use acrylic resolene to waterproof new leather pieces now.
In your warmer melt and combine 40% needs foot oil 40% coconut oil and 20% melted bees wax. Doesn't harden the leather and protects without the residue the bees wax will gather. It's a great leather conditioner.
Thanks for the suggestion. In my experience the, bees wax collects almost no residue because it is such a hard finish. The softer oils seem to collect more debris
I had a couple of Waxed Holsters that I gave away as gifts, I am guessing that they started waxing leather around the 1250 , they coated drinking cups that were made out to leather . Renaissance area ?
Have you tried mixing a bit of pine rosin in with the hot wax, to see what effect it has on the leather? It would definitely give the leather the nice pine smell
how has it held up after a year? I got a block of otterwax a long time ago and have used it to add some water resistance to a number of my leather and canvas products like boots and backpacks. Never had problem with the boots except maybe I overdid it as it became nonbreathable and sweaty. With the backpacks, the high amount of movement in the fabric meant I had to reapply it more often but it's usually a quick job. I had only used the method where you rub the wax bar onto the surface and used a hairdryer to melt it in. Multiple passes depending on how many layers I want. In fact today I dug up the bar from my tool chest and waxed a leather watch strap to give it some more water protection. Looks great! I love the darkening affect it has on materials.
@@wyomingwright Best just condition the leather and let it breathe for pouches. Sheaths tend to have a 'drip-hole' at the bottom. Never store your knives in leather.
(First in the oven (or microwave?) to remove moisture and thus render it soaking, then only hot wax (rather to long time, then polish. If that rout of testing, then that's how I would have tried.)
I have since tried warming the leather a bit before dipping and it does help the wax penetrate better and leaves very little residue on the outside of the leather
I've seen photos from the Vietnam War Era where Army Speical Forces troops going thru S.F. dive school would melt just plain paraffin & dip the leather handles & sheaths of their K-Bar knives in it to keep the water from destroying the leather...
I just wonder what will happen in very hot areas of the USA during the Summer. Like in Arizona or Florida. I would expect the wax will melt once it gets hot enough. That would definite cause damage to you cloths. I live in New York and we get very hot weather 90’s-100 degrees during the summertime.
This is a good thought. I've had my sheath in 100+ degree weather with no loss of form or function. 100% bees wax doesn't melt until about 150 degrees Fahrenheit, so it shouldn't be a problem unless you leave it in the car, but then it would act much like putting it in the oven and the leather should retain most of the wax. Thanks for your comments!
I haven’t, although I’ve considered it. I worried it would have too low of a melting point and spend too much time as a liquid. Might be worth a try though, maybe with a little beeswax mixed in??
Sir, G,Day from Oz. Great content! Same for the sheath! I was curious about the wax, ive been using nothing but tallow (fat) on my vegi tan for years! One edc rigging sheath has sailed 5,000 m open ocean over 15 years. Patina? Ist black and feels like inertube rubber! Upon compleation eacch peice gets treated by meling the tallow with a heat blower then painting it on and gently soakin it in with warm air from the gun. I repeat this untill no more soaks in then every so often there after, some peices soak up over 100g. The hot tallow stage is also when i do shaping the combined process leaves the leather maluable to then set firm perminately. So i woudnt worry about the wax. But im not sure about the oven, if your not carfull you,ll deep fry your edges, like ive done with the heat gun! Thanks Scotty
@@wyomingwright Glad you liked it, as long as the peice never gets too hot to touch your sweet! But keep an eye on the dog too, some delight in chewing a nice fatty sheath! Scotty
Cool video. Why not use an oil like Neatsfoot oil wiped on with a rag? I remember an old shoe cobbler that lived on my street in the 70’s and he would use warmed up liquid floor wax on leather products he made. I would have never even thought of that until I saw this video and it jolted a childhood memory. ***EDIT…. I just read the other comment that neatsfoot oil attracted mold in humid temps. Good to know.
I was worried about that too. Surprisingly, even though the leather is more grippy, I have not had any residue on my cards or knives. However, the leather becomes a lot stiffer and less supple, which I've found makes it less comfortable to carry my wallet in my front pockets. So I think it's a great application for leather that you want to remain stiff, like a sheath or holster, but not as great for something like a wallet.
Nope. It has never run off at all or gotten on my cloths or belt or seat or anything. I make sure that all of the wax is IN the leather. There is no surface residue. Even if the wax got up to 150 degrees F and melted again, it would be held within the leather. It would not just come dripping out. Physics would not allow it.
True. The trouble I have with oils and soft waxes is they tend to soften the leather too much if you aren't conservative with your application. I like the oils better for things like the wallet, but I like the wax better for something that needs to remain stiff, like a holster or sheath. I will update after an extended amount of use. Thanks for the comment!
You know, you could use Pro Dye to get the color you want and then treat the leather with a top coat to waterproof the leather without the possibility of melting wax ruining you cloths.
I have done this in the past and it is certainly a good option. I was surprised at how much my dipped sheaths increased in their strength and rigidity. I also liked how the dipped leather projects are treated inside and out.
@@wyomingwright well, first time I used it was on a magazine pouch I made about a year ago. I made it with an inside the waistband clip, so it rides in my pocket. Over the past year, with daily in and out use, and no maintenance at all, it's holding up just fine. I think I may have gone a little overboard with 3 or 4 coats, but the 3oz leather was stiff as a board when I was done with it.
Not long. In fact a lot of times I just run it under the sink quickly. I like the leather to be malleable but not floppy. I think I let it dry a bit after dunking it in this video.
Dipping the wallet was more of an experiment for me. I wouldn't recommend it. I still use it but it's very stiff and I don't believe it will ever change. There is no wax on the surface, but the leather is completely infused with wax and I don't think it can ever wear off from the fibers inside the leather.
To be honest I've never tried lighting it on fire. But I don't think it would burn. Leather is pretty fire resistant. I'll dip a chunk later and put it under a lighter and let you know what happens. But I don't expect it to do much.
I have no idea what this says, but I am going to assume it's a positive comment and give it a thumbs up. Maybe it's negative and I look like even more of a dummy.
I like beeswax a lot more than oils. I've made quite a bit of horse tack and saddles and oils were not performing well, or lasting long enough, so I switched a few years ago...wish I had started with beeswax. I also do a fair amount of woodworking and beeswax mixed with orange oil (Howard) works great, plus has a nice smell.
Recently, I hand-rubbed my boots with the mix, going to see how it holds up over time and in different weather. I already got them wet and they are beading water after a week's worth of soaking them with water spray from cutting tile with a wet saw.
Hope you have an update in a few months of how your sheath wax his holding up.
BTW, I used to use 100% Neatsfoot Oil (not compound because it breaks down the leather over time) and had a problem with it forming a mold in high humidity (Missouri), that's when I tried beeswax.
Thanks for your comment. I also like beeswax more than oils for almost everything. The challenge is getting it to carry into the material. That's why there are so many products that mix bees wax with other oils. The oils help soften the wax and act as a carrier to get the wax to penetrate. That's why I quite enjoyed this hot dipping because there is no need for a carrier and the leather is fully impregnated with wax. It seems like oils that are liquid at room temperature always experience some kind of volatilization or "gas off" and that's why they disappear over time. I haven't had that problem with 100% bees wax.
solid info thanks
I use Howard's for everything, it's a great product.
Thanks for Your comment dandexinventor, glad to know this!
How much orange oil do You add for the woodwork Dan?
I've had a crock-pot full of beeswax for almost 40 years. A chip brush applies the melted wax when re-assembling double hung windows - after renewing the sash cords - to both sash and frame. Melt the wax in with a heat gun for permanent, dust-free lubrication. Small, exotic wood 'coffee table boxes' brushed with wax and heat gunned, a pad of steel wool to pick up excess, provides a finish to the interior of the box to make it airtight and smell great. (I never tried it on leather though)
Good work! I hardened so many pieces in hot wax - so much fun.
Pro tips: the hotter the wax the tougher the piece will be.
The hotter the wax the shorter time needed for hardening and less wax will be left on the piece - no further need to put it in the oven.
Watch outs: threads - natural might be damaged by very hot wax.
Very hot weather and strong sun will soften the piece and the wax will start sweat a bit
Too hot wax (boiling, smoking) will destroy leather almost instantly
Leather with wax while still hot will be very soft and moldable - unless it is fixed/completed as is on the video have a molding form ready.
Good tips. Thank you!
My wax was too hot then I guess. As my piece warped like crazy.
Cool project and video! I wax all of my leather fixed knife sheaths, for hunting, camping, and teaching wilderness survival. Rather than dipping them entirely in a wax solution, I’ve just used sno-seal and a hairdryer, or heat gun, applied to the outside, in multiple pass for a deep protection. I wouldn’t want excess wax, getting on the blades, or the possibility of gritty particles bundling up inside the sheath, potentially damaging the blade. And the sheath ends up retaining some of its suppleness.
I used the same technique for jackets, hats, pants, etc, and have found the Kuhl wax bars work well. Cheers.
Thanks for the comment! I have done the same with my sheaths in the past. I was surprised to find as little residue with bees wax as the sno-seal. I have no concern about building up particles inside the sheath. All the wax was absorbed into the leather in the oven
Where do you get Kuhl wax bars and sno-seal ?
Add one to the snow seal. I use out on all my outdoor leather projects
Very beautiful work, thank you very much
Nice. I think it makes your stitching stand out like you said. I've used mink oil for water proofing boots in Ohio. It worked very well.
I like the double hand stitch, gonna do that on my next sheath.
Well that turned out the way I thought. I like the look also. Thanks
Looks great! Gonna do all few of mine now!
Great video.
Ive started using homemade Greenland Wax on gear and its a great preservative. My only observation is that waxing, as a technique, is somewhat dependent on the environmental conditions. The extreme ends of the spectrum can present issues. In arctic cold, wax can become like plastic, and make some items practically rigid. In extremely hot conditions, like deserts, wax leaches out of items, plus its frequently in the melted state. Everywhere between the extremes is fine, and soaking leather in wax is a brilliant way to preserve it in perpetually damp and wet environments where leather would normally rot.
So only use it in places bees like
I use ballistol wapon cleaner for leather works also perfect against rust
Hi I always wax my knife sheaths because it stops the leather from stretching and prevents blood and other bacteria from building up in the leather. It also makes it easy to wash clean.
i hava a leather shop and seeing this horizonial buck 110 sheave like yours prompts me to make one for myself, great video indeed
Thanks! I enjoy carrying my knives this way...as long as the sheath has a nice tight fit. Very concealable and accessible and it doesn't hang down and interfere with my legs when I'm bending or sitting down. Have fun with it!
Gonna tell you what I did to care for my BRK made Blackjack Halo in A2. Treated the knife itself in EEZOX. Best preservation for carbon steel I've seen since 1987, that's how long I've used it. For the sheath, I hand rubbed a LIGHT coat of Cetaphyll skin cream onto the bare leather, since its very gentle and as long as you don't slather it works. I mean LIGHT. Then I used ballistol to treat the leather since Lexol will darken carbon steels with a quickness. Then I applied two coats of solid mink oil. All by hand. At the time I lived in SC in high humidity and heat. The knife stays in the sheath. It was purchased well over a decade ago. It hasn't ever red rusted, I have to pay the thing to even get it to try to patina. Sheath is still supple, baseball glove brown and no rotted stitching. Had I known about this earlier I would have bees waxed it probably
Have you ever tried Pecard Leather Dressing? I think it is beeswax based; I've been using it for decades on everything from gloves to wallets to vintage 1930s camera cases, and the results have always been very good. I learned about it ages ago from a museum curator who was in charge of some civil war era leather uniform kit, and he claimed that it restored a rock hard 150 year old ammo pouch to quite supple after immersion in liquified Pecard Antique Leather Dressing for a couple weeks. I've never had to immerse, but I've certainly applied melted/liquified Pecard with excellent results.
I’ll have to give it a try!
Well done!
I don't know about using wax. But on my leather safety boots and leather tool belts, etc. To preserve them, I use Mink Oil. I heat it in the tin and make it liquidy. If it's too hot and you apply it to a spot on your leather boot. I know it can discolor because it sort of burns it. So I let it gel and it's still very appliable, somewhat liquidy and I spread it with a good rag. After I wipe it off and it really does a good job. On the body of whatever I'm coating and I pay close attention to the stitching. Give it a good rub off after. Looks great and feels very pliable.
Using a hair dryer to warm the leather and brush on melted wax or wax/oil blend and work it into the leather with the hot air, then wipe it down and buff it with the knife in it for wet formed sheaths like that.
Beautiful sheath and especially waxed!! I need to build one for my Buck 110 now!
I plan to wax the Apache style moccasins I’m gearing up to build.
Oh and thanks for sharing, I never thought about straight Bees wax may be cheaper than the snow seal
Thank you just found your channel, a very interesting and informative video, I have just subscribed and will look up the rest of your videos, I have used beeswax on a few of my sheaths in the past, but the wax was store bought and came in a jar semi solid, I just put on with a cloth, they turned out pretty well and as you say it does turn the leather darker. I did heat/melt wax before but that was to rewax a Barbour type vest
Thank you again
Take care
Sam ( N.Ireland)
Thanks, Sam! Ireland is definitely a place where leather needs protection from the elements. Hope to visit there someday. May the road rise up to meet you!
Looks great.
I love that look. I have a pair of shoes that I had made where they asked me what to do about the sole and how I want it dyed. I told them: No dye, a boat load of wax then hit it with an iron.
I tried for about 2 months about 30 peace's of leather to get the hot oil and bee's wax combo with zero luck there is a video made at the Bob Loveless shop of dipping the sheath in there oil and wax combo with zero change in the color of the leather . They held this recipe close to there chest as did Bob dozier at his shop . I used so many combinations of oil and wax I can't even remember. The answer is out there just not here with me . Happy trails
Great video, that leatherwork looks beautiful. In regards to the wax on the card holder, my concern would be that business cards would have a residue after awhile of carrying. I noticed that my cards seem to pick up any sort of grease or oil if set on a home countertop or on a table at a restaurant.
Dan, thanks for the comment! So far, so good with the wallet. I was worried about that too, but it's surprising how much the wax absorbs into the leather. There's not really any residue left on the surface. I think it's important to set it in the oven for a while after dipping it. But yeah, my cards are staying clean.
Very nice work.
Hey man, just stumbled on your video due to the algorithm on CZcams. I’ve got a standard buck 110 with the s30v blade and have been carrying it in the original black sheath for 3 years straight. It’s been with me since my first fire season in 2020 and constant off season work during my 6 months or so downtime, anyways I see you’ve crafted a scout style carry belt sheath for yours here in the video and I’ve got to say I love the design you’ve came up with. If you are actively selling that model on any platform i’m interested in picking one up from you at any point if that’s possible. Thanks for the good watch and keep ‘em coming definitely subscribing by the way!
Thank you sir. I appreciate that feedback. I may sell some in the near future. I will post a video when I do. I I’ve really enjoyed carrying the 110 with that sheath. It is more quickly accessible than a pocket knife. I also fought fires for several years. It’s a rewarding occupation.
@@wyomingwright thank you for responding! And I will 100% be on the lookout for the opportunity to get one from ya!
Sno seal! Hair dryer or the warm sun then buff off the little extra from the seams and such
This turned out great. Years ago a sheath maker made a sheath with fire steel loop for me for a custom fixed blade, and dipped it in beeswax I think after. There was some excess wax I had to work out, but the knife “clicks” into place, and of course the leather is very stiff and completely waterproof. Since then I just use Pecard’s shoe oil on my Bark River sheaths, which darkens them nicely and waterproofs them, but keeps the leather supple.
Q: What kind of wax do you use? Just household wax, or canning wax? Any specific type to look for? Love the look of your knife holster now.
Thanks! I used 100% bees wax. You can just throw chunks in the crockpot and let ‘em melt.
@@wyomingwright Oh,right, just watched again and missed the “Bees” reference at 2:42. That’s a great resource for you. Perfect, thanks. I have a big bar of beeswax I break chunks off of to use in a lead pot to bring up dross. I can pour it off after into ingot trays. I think I might need to buy more to get this much though. But first I have to make the pouch!
Have done this with many different types of footwear and an I'm generally disappointed with the results.No matter how much I buff out the wax initially, eventually with cooler temps, I see the wax on the surface began to whiten, and flake or crack with bending. I also see a lot of fine dirt accumulation. I have switched to Mink oil on my leather, I find it much superior. Definitely will darken light tan leather a bit though.
I could see that especially on leather that experiences a lot of movement like boots.
Yeah, I hot waxed the first knife sheath I ever made, for a fixed blade. It lost a lot of retention after about a year of use. I use acrylic resolene to waterproof new leather pieces now.
I'll have to get some resolene and give it a try. I'm curious what type of leather your first sheath was made with?
@@wyomingwright It was pre-dyed veg tan. I think about 4-5 oz. if I remember right.
Great vid thanks. Would like to see a update vid a few months down the line.
+1 to that. time is the teacher.
The hot wax will make the sheath LESS likely to lose its shape, by making the leather more impervious to moisture coming off the body such as sweat.
Very beautiful work
Thank you! Cheers!
In your warmer melt and combine 40% needs foot oil 40% coconut oil and 20% melted bees wax. Doesn't harden the leather and protects without the residue the bees wax will gather. It's a great leather conditioner.
Thanks for the suggestion. In my experience the, bees wax collects almost no residue because it is such a hard finish. The softer oils seem to collect more debris
Bet if you buffed the items with a shoe brush it would give it a nice, high shine.
I had a couple of Waxed Holsters that I gave away as gifts, I am guessing that they started waxing leather around the 1250 , they coated drinking cups that were made out to leather . Renaissance area ?
Have you tried mixing a bit of pine rosin in with the hot wax, to see what effect it has on the leather?
It would definitely give the leather the nice pine smell
That is a very interesting idea! I'll have to give that a try. Thanks for the comment!
I use 50/50 bees wax and paraffin. Have some sheaths over thirty years old that look like new.
Where do you get the paraffin ?
I use mineral oil. Never failed me yet. Food safe and no heat needed.
As long as the wax is not boiling hot, yeah, it's fine.
That came out beautiful mate. Nice work. I used beeswax on my Drizabone but I used too much. It’s as stiff as a board now. I need to wear it more.
Thank you! Cheers!
Very nice👍
Hello my friend, I’ve only just found your channel and it’s great. Good for you, I can only hope my channel is as entertaining as yours. Well done 👍.
how has it held up after a year? I got a block of otterwax a long time ago and have used it to add some water resistance to a number of my leather and canvas products like boots and backpacks. Never had problem with the boots except maybe I overdid it as it became nonbreathable and sweaty. With the backpacks, the high amount of movement in the fabric meant I had to reapply it more often but it's usually a quick job.
I had only used the method where you rub the wax bar onto the surface and used a hairdryer to melt it in. Multiple passes depending on how many layers I want. In fact today I dug up the bar from my tool chest and waxed a leather watch strap to give it some more water protection.
Looks great! I love the darkening affect it has on materials.
Still going strong
Surely the main reason for not hot waxing your leather sheath is because it will trap internal moisture.
Good point. I do try to make sure that my leather is extremely dry before wax dipping, but this is definitely something to consider
@@wyomingwright Best just condition the leather and let it breathe for pouches. Sheaths tend to have a 'drip-hole' at the bottom. Never store your knives in leather.
Cuir bouilli wax hardened leather.
WOW looks better than the VT
What is VT?
(First in the oven (or microwave?) to remove moisture and thus render it soaking, then only hot wax (rather to long time, then polish. If that rout of testing, then that's how I would have tried.)
I have since tried warming the leather a bit before dipping and it does help the wax penetrate better and leaves very little residue on the outside of the leather
I've seen photos from the Vietnam War Era where Army Speical Forces troops going thru S.F. dive school would melt just plain paraffin & dip the leather handles & sheaths of their K-Bar knives in it to keep the water from destroying the leather...
That is awesome. Thanks for sharing that!
Mike Stewart of Bark River recommends wax instead of oil for stacked leather handles.He's been doing this longer than I've been alive.
I just wonder what will happen in very hot areas of the USA during the Summer. Like in Arizona or Florida. I would expect the wax will melt once it gets hot enough. That would definite cause damage to you cloths. I live in New York and we get very hot weather 90’s-100 degrees during the summertime.
This is a good thought. I've had my sheath in 100+ degree weather with no loss of form or function. 100% bees wax doesn't melt until about 150 degrees Fahrenheit, so it shouldn't be a problem unless you leave it in the car, but then it would act much like putting it in the oven and the leather should retain most of the wax. Thanks for your comments!
Have you tried dipping in coconut oil I have seen a video showing it’s quite good and keeps the leather soft.
I haven’t, although I’ve considered it. I worried it would have too low of a melting point and spend too much time as a liquid. Might be worth a try though, maybe with a little beeswax mixed in??
looks great - should patina nicely
I would think the heat would temper the leather and make it very stiff. Does it make the leather very hard?
It does get hard, but I don't think it's more because the leather is impregnated with wax which then hardens as it cools.
Nice leather work on the examples you shared. That double-stitched Buck knife holster is great. ~ That being said, lose the music in these films.
Sir, G,Day from Oz. Great content! Same for the sheath! I was curious about the wax, ive been using nothing but tallow (fat) on my vegi tan for years! One edc rigging sheath has sailed 5,000 m open ocean over 15 years. Patina? Ist black and feels like inertube rubber! Upon compleation eacch peice gets treated by meling the tallow with a heat blower then painting it on and gently soakin it in with warm air from the gun. I repeat this untill no more soaks in then every so often there after, some peices soak up over 100g. The hot tallow stage is also when i do shaping the combined process leaves the leather maluable to then set firm perminately. So i woudnt worry about the wax. But im not sure about the oven, if your not carfull you,ll deep fry your edges, like ive done with the heat gun! Thanks Scotty
Tallow is an awesome idea. Very similar properties to wax with a slightly lower melting point. So less worry about cooking the leather. Cheers
@@wyomingwright Glad you liked it, as long as the peice never gets too hot to touch your sweet! But keep an eye on the dog too, some delight in chewing a nice fatty sheath! Scotty
Cool video. Why not use an oil like Neatsfoot oil wiped on with a rag? I remember an old shoe cobbler that lived on my street in the 70’s and he would use warmed up liquid floor wax on leather products he made. I would have never even thought of that until I saw this video and it jolted a childhood memory.
***EDIT…. I just read the other comment that neatsfoot oil attracted mold in humid temps. Good to know.
Thanks for the comment. I made another video where I discuss oil vs wax. Nothing wrong with oil and sometimes it’s the best thing to use
I’ve been using wax for leather and knives and guns since the 1960s.
That “grippy” wax inside your credit card wallet is going to be problematic…
I was worried about that too. Surprisingly, even though the leather is more grippy, I have not had any residue on my cards or knives. However, the leather becomes a lot stiffer and less supple, which I've found makes it less comfortable to carry my wallet in my front pockets. So I think it's a great application for leather that you want to remain stiff, like a sheath or holster, but not as great for something like a wallet.
Just a doubt... Will the dip effect the thread? I would prefer doing the dip before stitching.
Not at all
The weaver leather guy says in hot sun, it will ruin car seats or whatever it touches when the wax runs off. Have you experienced this?
Nope. It has never run off at all or gotten on my cloths or belt or seat or anything. I make sure that all of the wax is IN the leather. There is no surface residue. Even if the wax got up to 150 degrees F and melted again, it would be held within the leather. It would not just come dripping out. Physics would not allow it.
Neatsfoot oil would have been easier !!
True. The trouble I have with oils and soft waxes is they tend to soften the leather too much if you aren't conservative with your application. I like the oils better for things like the wallet, but I like the wax better for something that needs to remain stiff, like a holster or sheath. I will update after an extended amount of use. Thanks for the comment!
You know, you could use Pro Dye to get the color you want and then treat the leather with a top coat to waterproof the leather without the possibility of melting wax ruining you cloths.
I have done this in the past and it is certainly a good option. I was surprised at how much my dipped sheaths increased in their strength and rigidity. I also liked how the dipped leather projects are treated inside and out.
ah that's Bass 👌🏻🍺
I'm unsure of your concern , most intelligent people have work clothes for projects and are not wearing their Sunday best !
I've found that wax dipping is better than dying and resolene in some instances.
I haven’t ever used resolene, but I know there’s some folks that really like it. I wonder how long it lasts before wearing off?
@@wyomingwright well, first time I used it was on a magazine pouch I made about a year ago. I made it with an inside the waistband clip, so it rides in my pocket. Over the past year, with daily in and out use, and no maintenance at all, it's holding up just fine. I think I may have gone a little overboard with 3 or 4 coats, but the 3oz leather was stiff as a board when I was done with it.
Beeswax is the best color on leather. Especially raw leather.
I’m a sucker for natural veg tan, but the waxed look is growing in me!
How long are you soaking?
Not long. In fact a lot of times I just run it under the sink quickly. I like the leather to be malleable but not floppy. I think I let it dry a bit after dunking it in this video.
I think it turned out pretty dog gone nice bud,very interesting.
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Greta video
With time the wax should wear off. With it having hopefully just enough to make it worth it. I hope with time. You would enjoy your bees waxed wallet.
Dipping the wallet was more of an experiment for me. I wouldn't recommend it. I still use it but it's very stiff and I don't believe it will ever change. There is no wax on the surface, but the leather is completely infused with wax and I don't think it can ever wear off from the fibers inside the leather.
Is iy flammable?
To be honest I've never tried lighting it on fire. But I don't think it would burn. Leather is pretty fire resistant. I'll dip a chunk later and put it under a lighter and let you know what happens. But I don't expect it to do much.
Don’t dip it take a little and rub it into the sheath
That's an option too
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...👏👍🖖
Whatever flips ur burger!
Usually a spatula, but I don't see how that's relevant.
@@wyomingwright don’t underestimate a spatula.
不由踢佛
I have no idea what this says, but I am going to assume it's a positive comment and give it a thumbs up. Maybe it's negative and I look like even more of a dummy.
@@wyomingwright Chinese pronunciation (Beautiful)
Wax for leather is Best treatment ever. Natural treatment. Im a fisherman and belive me.....wax is the Best...even natural wax from candles