Les Paul Jr - MojoAxe Compensated Bridge
Vložit
- čas přidán 18. 02. 2017
- Here's a partner link to the bridge we installed:
MOJOAXE COMPENSATED BRIDGE - bit.ly/mojoaxebridge
STRING HEIGHT GAGE - amzn.to/2vROApU
We swapped out an aftermarket Graphtech Resomax bridge for a MojoAxe CWT-UA compensated bridge on a 2012 LPJ.
I received word that string changes are indeed easier and going back to the hardtail solid style bridge gave Aaron a big chunk of his tone back! - Hudba
Really useful, thank you. I always wondered what I should be really doing with my wraparound intonation.
Awesome thanks. Just got a Mojoaxe and I’m going to install it. Very helpful. Cheers.
(Note- Remember to set the intonation while holding the guitar in playing position rather than in the neck cradle on a tabletop. The weight of the guitar could let the neck bow ever so slightly while in the cradle.)
Every set up is checked in the playing position before I let them go. Thanks for checking this out!
I thought you probably did. I should have made it clear, my comment was for the viewer - not you. My bad! Great Video!
Stupid question... suppose you break one string, can you replace the string without replacing the others ... or do you have to loosen all the strings on the bridge, and etc..
@@AugustMedia
In some models of bridges and guitars you can change only one string, in others you have to loosen all the strings and in other models you have to remove all the strings.
Nice work Greg!
Nice video Greg - thanks for sharing
Thanks for checking it out!
The Wilkinson wrap around bridge also has a separate block for the B & G strings to let you get even nearer to perfect... if that interests anyone... their bridge is one hefty chunk of metal.
(same as fitted to a Vintage V120 but that guitar's bridge lets you remove the top of the posts so you can lift the bridge off without needing to reset the action when you refit)
The original wraparound bridge for Goldtops, Juniors, etc. is made of a very light nickel-plated aluminum. It resonates very well. I'm no so sure about that "hefty chunk of metal.' Just saying.
BTW, I now tune at the 3rd fret and intonate at the fifteenth. It's a more temped tuning that works. Try it.
Tuners look like Tonepros Kluson Deluxe locking tuners...i put a set of black ones on my LPX and i love em cuz they make the strings sustain longer and the vibration's felt on each note especially the bass strings!
I've got a 2011 Gibson Explorer Melody Maker that has the non compensated Wrap around tailpiece, which is a stop bar with the strings wrapped around it. I thought for sure I was going to have to replace it with a "Lightening bolt" tailpiece or one like was shown on this guitar previously. I was very surprised to find that it intonates very well, just about the same as the guitar shown in this video.
mojorisen74 me too.
Sounds great dood☆
Cool vid, Thanks dude.
i want that case!
I love juniors! I put a Mojoaxe bridge on my singlecut Junior. I did a bridge swap for the same reason; the guy I bought my Junior had a TonePros wraparound on the guitar. My question is this: how to do you feel about the use of TonePros or other brands locking studs? I've put them on all my juniors I've had to get rid of the forward lean of the bridge. Do you think it's necessary to eliminate the lean?
Have you tried the Music City Bridge -Bridge upgrade for these wrap around 60’s Les Paul jrs? Nothing replaces hard won experience and I see that Mojoaxe has a version you are using. Cheers!
What bridge would you recommend for best tuning, stable set up, and best sound. I’m gonna put 11 gauge strings on my les Paul jr and probably keep it there, if anything maybe 10’s. I like low action. I just ordered a used one from eBay. Will upgrade the nut to a graphtech one and upgrade pick up.
Dope video. What do you recommend?
Thanks
Hey ! The MojoAxe looks cooler, but the ResoMax might be more efficient... Anyway: thanks for uploading and for the tip with the threads/inch at 6:19. Quite helpful :)
i have a 1960 tv i put a mojoaxe years ago...intonates as good as any guitar...and sounds fantastic.....
I just put a Resomax stop tail on my custom built, and had to drill the holes out just a little bit bigger for it's posts. Fitting the stop tail on them after was a bit iffy. Had to do a little tapping... I sort of hate the deal with using an allen wrench on the backs of these things. It's that odd space that's created. Since I didn't put the first stop tail on my guitar, I didn't have a choice about the decision of the position of those things. I'd rather see a longer play with the adjustable saddles than the odd space created by the allen screws. Now I have another problem. I can only screw the Resomax down to about an 1/8 or so to the bottom of the post. Looks like yours screwed all the way down (the post ring and the screw's ring touch each other)and left no gap. I mean, it will not screw any more. Maybe because I need to loosen everything, strings, etc, to get the pressure of the allen screw off of it, or maybe the allen screw itself is blocking it from going further. That makes more sense. In any case, now my action is high. Try high action with Thomastik Infelds sometime. What a workout. Gaaaaa...
Hi I've got a Les Paul Special clone from Custom 77, a french brand. And the strings are a bit high. I try to screw in the bridge, but at the maximum, I can't any further. What should I do in your opinion? Thank you
The Gotoh 510UB is similar to what was on there but the strings load in from the top. I have the same GraphTech Resomax bridge that was on there on my SG Junior but the soapbar P-90 is a bit further away from the bridge than in this case, so I have room to push the string end out. Personally I can't see how this new bridge you've put on will be easier to restring one string at a time, it has the same issue regarding how the string feeds through.
What is your opinion of the Resonax? I'm not happy with the stock lightening bar on my LP Special. I want to intonate each string because I want the whole neck to be in tune. If it's possible.
That was a cool looking strobe machine. Is it a guitar tuner? What's it's called or who makes it?
What camera are you using for this video, because that's a damn crisp shot you got going on there!!!
Canon 80D. Lens is a canon 24-70mm f2.4... The lens is pretty nice.
That's a real nice guitar I'm jealous
Good to see a video on this channel. I was just about to unsubscribe due to inactivity! lol Nice work guys!
LOL! The posting schedule will pick up soon.
Hi, I have the same MojoAxe wraparound bridge on a Tokai LPJ-1 (Tokai's Junior DC pendant). I have the problem that the 12th fret is flat (up to around 10 cent) even when I adjusted the bridge the nearest to the pickup. Any suggestions?
10 cent is quite a bit. Flat means the string is too long. I am guessing its flat all the way up the neck? If so, I would start by using a round file and shaving the bridge so you can get it more forward (toward the nut). I suspect that you need about 1/16" of additional relief to get 10 cents of adjustment (general rule is 10 cents at the 12th fret = 1/10 of the distance between the 11th and 12th fret). You should be able to use a rat tail file or a Dremel tool to create the additional relief. Rock on!
I was just thinking I might try one of these replacement bridges with saddles for my Special and now... not;-) I'll leave the stock one one there but I gotta find a way to keep the high E from jumping around. I might accelerate the grooves for each string with a file;-)
If you can stand the stock tail, leave it. You get WAY more energy from it. I should have done a before and after play test, but I forgot to record the before... As for the moving E... When you are getting ready to change strings, take a soft mallet and strike the string where it meets the bridge. It will leave a little indent. If that doesn't work good enough, then yes, hit it with a nut file. It just takes a couple strokes and you're in business.
Sweet, thanks for the input buddy. I never even thought about the reduced mass. The replacement much be much less resonant eh.
Yes. It thins out the sound for sure. The old block style def has advantages... The compensated bridge is a good upgrade in terms of being able to play in tune. A bit pricey for something that is easy to make, but hey, it does its job, so its worth it.
Have a look at the Gotoh 510UB bridge.... the strings load from more or less the top side.... in my opinion its the best wraparound bridge on the market.... i put one on every wraparound bridge guitar that ive had wether it needed replacing or not....
While I like a lot of Mojotone products and have some, the lack of a tight Bridge fit on the studs concerns me. I thought that maybe the play was for moving the Bridge back and forth to get exact string alignment with the neck, but it would need to be a locking bridge to accomplish that, which it is not.
I put a shaved block of wood UNDER the stopbar to keep it from tilting forward and also provide more contact surface with body....
My god that is a sexy jr!! all I hear is johnny thunders when I see that guitar!! I have a Billie joe Armstrong double cut with a tortoise shell pickgaurd but that tortoise shell looks way more vintage!!
I need full specs, I bought guitar tuners for my epi junior, too big by mistake. I want to know the size of the tuner' s orifice if it is 9 mm or 10mm. Please help!
All your questions can easily be answered by doing a simple search on the intergoogle.
Excellent video Greg! I would like to see a lot more of that!
What is that Lace Sensor box in the background?
There are two Deathbuckers sitting on my bench. They are going into a PRS style build I'm in the middle of... Videos should be out fairly soon.
do you have experience with Lace Senesor's pickups?
I feel like there's no perfect solution for intonation on a Les Paul Junior. I'm really wanting to swap the bridge out on mine but don't know what is the general consensus on the "best bridge" for a LP Jr.
There are a lot of opinions on what is the best... The bottom line is what works best for you. I see the LPJs as a simple guitar. My preference is to keep them that way. The compensated bridges are darn good if you don't change string gauges. If you want it to have a perfect setup and you tweek things a lot, you'll want a bridge with adjustable saddles. My ears can hear a non-compensated & non-adjustable bridge when you get out of the cowboy chord end of the guitar, so for me, that is my least favorite solution. As for WHO makes the best stuff, I like tone pros because I'm familiar. Graphtech makes good stuff too. I though this mojo axe piece was well made, but I haven't see how well its holding up. I know the owner of this guitar and I know it gets played a lot.
I just a got a les Paul special with a single wrap around bridge piece. and don’t like the string tension as it is too tight IMO. What should I do ? Go down a gauge in strings?
Yes. if you're using 10's, put a set of 9's on and see how they feel. A few companies also make 9.5's, so if the 9's are too slinky, step up to the 9.5's. You can also run 8's or 7's. There are some pretty famous guitar player who used those ultra light gauges.
Hey i just got kine can you guide me on setting mines up
very nice
Thanks Darrin!
Well it looks like you will still have to remove or loosen the bridge to change the strings or a string don't you?
I'd a stuck with the bridge that was on the guitar.
@@frankenstien6978 i was gonna comment that as well...
Frank Enstien Actually it’s not!
I guess you would a.
Certainly my thoughts
may i ask where can i get the bja lpj, also im pretty sure its a 2012 model
Yes! It’s from 2012 the same one Billie joe smashed at iheart radio they made them between 2011 till 2013
Good vid ty man
I've been trying to get the intonation dialed in on my 2015 junior but no matter if I lengthen or shorten the string it stays sharp. Changed to locking studs to eliminate forward tilt but that didn't do anything for the intonation. Any suggestions?
If your intonation is sharp, you need the lengthen the string. The bridge has to move toward the butt end of the guitar. Use the adjusters to push it as far as it will go. If you are playing 10s, you can measure the nut to the 12th fret on the high E string. That distance should be almost exactly the same as the 12th fret to the bridge. If it's not, that's a good place to start "roughing in" your intonation... The Low E is about 3/8" longer from the 12th fret to the bridge than it is from the nut to the 12th... Does that make sense? BUT, you need to set the neck relief, and the string height BEFORE you adjust intonation. This can and does affect string length at each fret... Lastly, if you play very heavy handed, you will fret note sharp. Play with a light touch and you may find that the notes are closer to the target tone.
SkyScraper Guitars Okay I'll try that out, thanks for the quick reply!
Your hands were blocking and camera was blurry so I could not see what you are using to adjust intonation. Those screws are similar to the ones on my stock Gibson bridge. Allen wrench does not work. Is it a phillips head screwdriver? My smallest one doesn't fit in the hole.
What do the fingers mean?
Hey I'll take the old bridge off your hands fact I want to get one cuz I like it
Newbie here. What are you adjusting at the 7:50 mark? Your hand is obstructing the view and you’re not providing any verbal detail. Is it the Allen Keys you’re adjusting? Clockwise to alleviate the sharpness? CCW?.. More explanation would be very helpful.
It's for the intonation, its a screw that pushes the tail piece back and forth against the tail posts
Also check out Music City "stud finder" bridge.
Been looking into one of those myself Got a Faber that I'm gonna try first then decide Very cool
I have been looking at the StewMac version, which they claim is "low profile ", and has the individual saddles. I'm tired of my LP Special's compensated bridge, which is hard for me to deal with.
All I saw in this vid was that the strobe was continuously in the red. Is that the way the strobe registers when the guitar is in tune?
It's a rotation that you're looking for, not a color. If it rotates anti-clockwise, you're flat, clockwise you're sharp. The rings represent the octaves.
@@SkyscraperGuitars Thank you. I have a Les Paul Special-been chasing intonation since day one. Plays and feels fine-P90's are to my liking for tone. It just doesn't seem to stay in tune up past 9th, 10th fret. I just ordered a MojoAxe bridge today. Hoping this resolves the intonation issue. If you have any tips-I'd be interested in hearing from you when I install the new MojoAxe.
I'm a complete newbie when it comes to this-nearest "respectable" Luthier is in Nashville-which is a long haul from me.
Also, thanks again for responding-most people with channels post a video and then never answer any questions. Much respect & best regards!
@@michaelpal7641No worries. I'm a guitar nerd, so I love talking about them... As for your LP special... Sometimes intonation is a balance and it's not perfect. If it's good at the 12th fret on every string; that's about as good as the guitar will get. If it's off on a string or two, you can always file the spring points on the saddle to tweek it a bit. Most folks don't like to do that, but look at acoustic guitars, there are filed bridge saddles and straight ones. The filed versions make it just that much sweeter. You can do the same on a cast bridge, you just loose the chrome. This bridge is well better than the straight stock version. String height is also critical to get everything as sweet as possible.
I noticed you said the bridge saddle was closer to the 12th fret on the bass side and farther away on the treble side. That would be exactly opposite of proper intonation in every guitar on earth. is the LP Junior different than every other guitar on earth?
That probably came out of my mouth wrong. The treble side is closer to the 12th fret for sure.
@@SkyscraperGuitars Sure is.
@@timhallas4275 Went back and listened... If the bridge were looked at all by its lonesome, the video is correct. The bass side E is closer to the front of the bridge because the bridge posts are staggered on the body, thus making the breakpoint for the bass E being further away from the 12th... Like every other properly intonated guitar on the planet. I probably should have explained that to the viewers as it looks and sounds completely counterintuitive.
@@SkyscraperGuitars Yes. apparently the LP Junior has a serious off-set on the bridge studs that makes it a real challenge to use "normal" non-adjustable bridges. I get it... But, you did say the saddle was closer to the 12th fret on the bass side of the bridge. This particular bridge tricked your eyes and the choice of words was unfortunate. It's OK, nobody's perfect.
I want that case.
No doubt right!?!
I have a les paul jr that is the same colour that I painted myself. How do you get the finish to look a professional made guitar?
Automotive paints. Either a 2 stage (base coat / clear coat) or a single stage hardened paint. I like acrylic urethanes, but some guys still use acrylic enamels. You need a good compressor, a good paint gun and all the proper lung protection when using that type of paint.
@@SkyscraperGuitars My guitar I painted was from a spray can. I've seen videos on using automotive polish to get a nice mirror like finish. Is that a good idea?
@@SkyscraperGuitars I also clear coated it.
@@Trauzzinator Spray cans won't do the trick. They are usually a single part lacquer. That type of paint typically dies back and sinks into the pours of the wood. Rattle can clear is the same stuff. You can put on 20 coats to build up thickness and you can buff it, but it will die back over time and you will be left with an inferior looking paint job. That's just my opinion, but I've seen 100's of rattle can jobs over the years and you can pick them out every time. The automotive style 2 part paints have WAY more solid content and they are hardened so they don't die back like single part paints. They still die back, but its very slow. There is also enough film build that you have material to cut and buff to re-level the paint when it does die back.
@@SkyscraperGuitars What can you suggest is the best for my situation?
My eyes are going to deteriorate from too many blurry pictures. I think you have a really good, informative chennel but this is important. You need to solve this bro.
I'm sorry I'm not from the USA, could you give me the price of that guitar'?
I have no idea.
Resomax for life
What was wrong with the Tone Pro. I don't think I caught the problem.
You couldn't change one string at a time. The bridge had to come off to change strings... Customer did not like that.
Okay I get that. I like to leave the tension on the neck when I change my strings also. Thanks for your response.
Also it looked crap.
that's a billie joe junior with a MojoAxe pickguard
Honestly, I prefer the Hipshot Baby Grande bridges. They are super easy to change strings. it has locking posts for zero lean, and moveable individual saddles for DEAD PERFECT intonation, and they are available in either aluminum OR brass for the right tone for your application. and they don't require any mods... you can return your guitar back to dead stock with just a string change.
and if you want to whine about the way they look, then your just one of those guys who is more worried about cosmetics over tone, playability & reliability.
What a sweet guitar that is. I wish Gibson would keep making 'em.
They do...
Dogear pickup not Soapbar!!!! Great video!!!
Ah yes. Correct.
I luv jrs
You still have same string removal problem with the new bridge.
There's WAY more access to get the strings out one at a time on the new bridge... By way more, I mean about a 1/4". Before there was not enough clearance for the ball end to come out of the bridge... Its much better now, but still not ideal.
I put one on a '57 Historic Junior with TonePros Locking Studs. It is a smaller bridge than the ResoMax!
So much for single saddle intonation
Patrick Kem I'm thinking of putting one on my Special that has individual saddles, even though it's a little more complicated. I'm hoping to get good, if not great intonation up and down the neck.
Now, how can you set your intonation? Why did you remove the Graph Tech bridge? It's a total nonsense!
You set the two E strings. It's a compensated bridge so all the strings are DAMN close. If I remember right we had one string that was a couple cents off. 99% of the guitars out there aren't that close after a tech spends time with them. Beats the crap out of dicking with string changes like he had to do.
I saw the tailpiece movement going left to right...and heard you say damn. That didn't look good. It looks like the mojo needs a set screw on the ends of the tailpiece too.
That movement is not a big deal. The sting tension locks everything down place. The bar is tilted so that play is not an issue.
@@iridium02 It is a problem when you bend strings.
David Kennedy I am playing it right now.... No movement at all... 1/4, 1/2, full, 1 and 1/2, ghost, unison bends....
@@iridium02 Great when the posts are cocked it will cause wear and will move
David Kennedy that is true... I may have found a solution...
If you have to tune the string DOWN after turning the set screw IN, why not tune the strings down a bit FIRST? (which takes stress off the threads of the set screw). You always tune a string UP to pitch anyway. Just sayin’
I find tuning and epecially intonating on the bench with a neck rest gives bad results. I do all my intonating with the guitar in playing position. don't think it matters? tune the gutar on the bench and then check the tuning holding it in your lap - way off - five cents or so off on all strings. also I find intonating fretted notes (no harmonics) from around the 3rd fret through the tenth to get better results as well. my rationale is I want the notes of fretted chords (in normal playing position) to sound most well intonated. why would care much if the notes up at the 12th fret are perfectly intonated? of course, if the guitar is 100% perfect maybe it doesn't matter, but my guitars seems to benefit from the greater care to get those notes in the most played chord areas intonated well.
I'm still trying to work out wether or not making the strings slightly longer helps intonation. slightly flat notes seem to sound better than slightly sharp notes. any thoughts?
What's so bad about taking off the bridge to replace the strings ? No big deal in my eyes.
If you break one string on stage at a club with no guitar tech, there's no way to change it. Its a huge deal if you've got an audience waiting to hear another song. I'd always have a back up guitar, but some folks don't... Especially if they have a handful of different tunings and a guitar for each,.
Seems like nonsense to me! Replacing a good Resomax tailpiece from GraphTech that can be adjusted with precision (and which respects the specific harmonics of the guitar) by a generalist MojoAxe tailpiece... Sorry, I don't understand.
Best regards
Erney Ballsack... LOL
you're not fooling anyone. That's the Billie Joe Armstrong Signature Junior.
True story.
GAGERADE Henson He said it was a BJA in the video
hey that's wrong you calibrate the intonation with the guitar face up thats wrong ... magnetics fields of the mic generate a different read' in the tuner' you have to put the guitar in the position of playing
You can get a Chinese wrap around replacement for the Junior that has individual saddles and tons of adjustment, for perfect intonation for like $16 on Amazon. Unless you are on the warpath with Pres. Dipshit. It even comes with the right posts to fit.
Compensated solid bridges have greater sustain than those with individual saddles. The more pieces, the more sustain is lost.
When things are in place, no further adjustments are necessary. High-end acoustic guitars have a fixed bridge and their intonation is correct.
@@PatoJMA I have to agree. But some juniors have the bridge posts in a bad location for the simple wrap bridge. I got lucky with mine and my SG special also. Very close to perfect with just a tweak on the allen screws.
Doesn’t this guitar need the 60’s lightening bar since the studs aren’t offset?
The customer brought the bridge to me, so I didn't research all the options. The bridge fit and intonated rather well... If I remember correctly, there was only one string that was a couple cents off.
yes, good observation, wrong bridge it need the 60’s lightening bar but the 50’s probably works fine like the man said
Someone paid you to do this? Does there mother still cut their food for them?
what he said below
The guy in the background sounds like on of those ding dong snobs that work at guitar center.
As if every employee of Guitar Center are exactly the same, and as if you can judge a person by their voice on youtube. Sheesh......!
I don't get it you have to do it either way with the new bridge going to have to do it anyway it's a wrap around right so the strings are going to go in the same way I would have kept it I don't know man just take the bridge off put the strings on and put the bridge back on string it not that hard but it slides right off what's the what's the difference I don't get it either way strings going the same way in the bridge just slides right off it's not a big deal I don't know something I'm missing I
I kind of agree with this comment. Not sure if the new bridge addresses the initial problem of not being able to change one string in isolation without removing the whole thing. Does it fix the problem?
Guy in the background sounds like Nikki Sixx.
How can this be intonated. Btw nice guitar
There are adjusting screws at the back. The compensation takes care of the string to string differential and the adjusting screws put the bridge where it needs to be. There's always a bit of a compromise, but overall, you can get very good intonation with it. You'll have more issues with finger pressure than with intonation issues.
SkyScraper Guitars I'm gonna get something like the one you took off, but not a graph tech. Because I can't get the bridge on my Special intonated as good as I want. Coming from tune o matics and Fenders this is my first wraparound bridge. I love the guitar. P90s, slab, neck shape, everything but the bridge. I'm my own luthier, so I'm going for the easy fix, adjustable single saddles. Oh, I enjoyed the video for sure!
Why would anyone want to do this? I don't really get it. I have a compensated bridge and it sucks. Much easier to be able to intonate each saddle separately.
I was thinking the same thing. He just swapped it out for a worse bridge...
Those tuners are such an eye sore. I don’t understand why people insist on reaming out LP tuner holes just to put bulky, ugly tuners on. I just use the Kluson Deluxe tuners for my juniors and never have tuning issues.
Cool Cool. Sam and I just took an hour conference yesterday on Harmony and Melody and the science of guitar Very cool cool, The teachers Name is Jim McCutcheon very awesome dude
Nice!!! That's a great foundation to have...
You don't adjust intonation with the guitar on it's back... always do it in the playing position...
YOU don't adjust it that way, you mean, because this guy DOES do it that way, and it doesn't matter 99% of the time.
Your right there is weight on the neck. Tisk tisk tisk
The bridge has been placed far to close to the pickup, terrible design!
Wow! You have no idea what you’re talking about!!! It’s designed that way for a reason. Maybe you should do some research before you open your mouth.
Uh no it’s correctly designed. You are just ignorant. Smh.
Tony Smith: This guitar came with a bridge much like the one they just put on. The one they took off was not made for this guitar. The fact is, the closer the pickup is to the bridge, the brighter the sound.
i think this is not the right bridge for that guitar. You need an lightning bolt not a standard wraparound. Standards are for late 50's model that have an slanted bridge not a straight like the 60's models.
the resomax is a much nicer bridge
Coupla points.
Using imperial for action is insane. 4 and a half 64ths?
Metric man!
Also never set intonation with the guitar laid on a bench. Gravity and/or the lack of it if you’re propping the neck on a rest will alter how the neck sits. Playing position only.
Am I missing something or did you rip that guy off with some cheap tailpiece? I mean the guy deserves it though from not being able to fix and maintain his own equipment...
William, yes you are missing something. He brought me the tailpiece to install. I also didn't charge him a dime for the work.
I would have refused to do the work upright. Those "compensated" fixed bridges are junk, but I mean PRS puts them on their overpriced guitars so go ahead. Not being a jackass, just my opinion. Carry on.
@@willammings7317 Nah. everyone has a preference. If I started drawing a line saying "I'm not going to help you do (fill in the blank) to your guitar because its not what I would do" then I'd never be able to help anyone. Aaron (the owner of this guitar) hated the bridge because he couldn't change strings when one broke. Swapping out the bridge for one that worked made his life a bit better and made his playing experience a bit less frustrating. He's not a recording artist or a touring musician, so as long as it makes him happy, I'm good with it.
Hey bro. Can I make a suggestion? The long bit you left out because it was just repetitive detuning/adjust/retune... leave all that in. Lots of people (ie me) find stuff like that therapeutic and interesting (and real). You can always say "This bit may be dull, so go to INDEX 2 in the description". In the description put a timed link like this
INDEX 2: czcams.com/video/jm-07eDzJGE/video.htmlm12s
that points to where that stuff has ended :)
Tech tip: put a smear of graphite grease on each post before you put the bridge on,, then you can adjust the string height while under tension.
Should really always use a quarter to adjust those studs. Otherwise you’re gonna stab the finish.
I can't remember what I used on this guitar... Been too long, but I have a set of large washers of varying thickness that I use for large slotted screws. I find the one that fits tight and use it. I may not have been able to locate them for this video.
Another suggestion from a viewer from Argentina is to put a soft cloth in the groove before using either a quarter or a screw driver, this way, the chrome finish remains unharmed ;-) czcams.com/video/DODV11pn4YU/video.html at 16:26
Plastic nuts on a Gibby,,,,
That’s just wrong,,nice player though.
Angst ridden haters 🤘🤘🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 every video i put up has one lol
Gibson should stay away from wraparound bridges!
Wow how yo ruin a guitar
Got rid of the ugly bridge. Now toss those awful tuners!
that was a downgrade !
All depends on your perspective. For a guy who wants to be able to replace a broken string during a gig, it's an upgrade.
looks like you changed out a good bridge for a piece of crap
All depends on what is important to you. Guys who don't gig will change individual strings. If the old bridge didn't allow that and the new one does... Then it was good for the player and it's a win. The old bridge is in the case and can be swapped out if the next owner wants to deal with it's limitations.
Plastic nut.
For shame, Gibson
No doubt...
To be fair, it must be Corian. No Gibson guitar spec sheet lists "plastic" as nut material, nor have I ever serviced one. Gibson is Corian, Micarta, Delrin, bone, or nylon. No plastic (nylon technically _is_ plastic but I mean no cheap, generic Epiphone/Cort/Squier plastic nut).
"Give 'em one of those"... As a Christian person, it saddens me to see how capriciously people throw the devils horns sign, which is exactly what it is That was such an absurdly easy fix, that I wonder why you bothered making a video doing it. Whatever........
That sign can be interpreted numerous ways in numerous cultures, generally as a sign of warding off ill omens and bad luck. Italians in particular have used that gesture for centuries, known to them as the "malocchio," or evil eye. For them, it's a sign of protection from the devil, NOT an evocation of satan. It became a symbol of heavy metal when Ronnie James Dio, an Italian American, used it during concerts instead of the peace sign employed by Black Sabbath's previous singer, Ozzie Osborne, as to not copy his predecessor. He chose the "malocch" because his grandmother used it. Eventually, that sign became equated with heavy music, and eventually conflated with "devil horns" supporting satan. Many Italians, mostly devout Catholics, continue to use that symbol today. It's also used as a protection sign in Buddhism and other cultures.
Probably the ugliest tuners I’ve ever seen, really nice guitar though
def not for everyone.