Just a warning from an experienced door guy, there's a lot of folks talking about removing the vertical track one by one to change all of the rollers at once; I would like to tell you why this is not a good idea. If you remove your vertical track on either side of your door there is still a possibility that your bottom section will fold backwards, and cause a considerable amount of damage, especially on wider, and/or thinner worn out doors. Even worse, your door could be pulled out of the other track, and at that point you are going to need a new door, and possibly a trip to the ICU. Just take into consideration that some of the people here offering advice may not have a clue what they are talking about.
As a 25-year Garage Tech, I would like to suggest that you use a different technique for replacing the bottom roller. The way you do it opens you up to a myriad of potential problems(cable popping off the drum, fighting with the bottom seal, etc.). The easiest way is to raise the door and loosen the verticle track enough to be able to pop the bottom roller(and only the bottom roller) out of the track for replacement. Or use the other technique you mention by bending a small area of the verticle track with a vice grip and use a pry bar to pop the roller out for replacement. This is the way I do it. It's fast, easy, and wayyyyyyy safer. That being said, thank you for going over the dangers of the spring and explaining where the spring tension is held. I've been to many aftermath scenarios after someone effed up and lost a finger, maimed themselves, or even died. I've seen all 3. Keep up the good work.
Do not do this method, you do understand, the bottom of the door is connected to a cable, at the other end of that cable is a very large, very strong spring with all force concentrated on upward pressure, that track is hold the door in place while the stopped opener keeps it in place, you remove the entire track? Think…
I used to do this for a living, and bending the track is easier and faster. All you need is a set of vise-grip pliers and a flathead screwdriver. Also, install nylon coated rollers instead.
Just replaced the springs and did a complete overhaul: springs, cable, bearings and rollers.. Used the nylon rollers and they are quiet! Definitely the way to go. 😊
That was a great video! I had no idea how to do a project like this. Really good tips about the cable. Wow, I pity the poor people who find that out the hard way!
Been installing and servicing garage doors for about 6 years now and doing it the way you said was not preferable (prying track open and then sliding hinge and roller out) is by far the easiest and safest way to do it. takes me all of about 3 minutes to swap out 10 rollers on a 7ft garage door. however, at least you were aware that the bottom bracket is under tension...99% of customers think the garage door opener does all the lifting.
I been installing doors and service for about 10 years now. The easiest and safest way i found to replace rollers and any door is to remove the vertical. Bam replace all rollers in 10 seconds
@@96712 Not safe at all, if the door is under tension you risk damaging your bottom section, especially on wider doors, not to mention the possibility of it folding completely backwards, being pulled out of the opposite track, and losing the entire door.
@@InuranusBrokoff well according to your comment, it sounds like you’ve never worked on a overhead sectional door. Do 1 side at a time. Done it on very large doors. Large as in 25x16 2” thick doors. Less than 5 mins.
Hey all you garage guru's (seriously, not being snarky), I have a garage door that's come off the track about 5 times now (I KNOW, why haven't I called a garage door guy yet)......point is I'm curious...is it your opinion the most likely reason this has happened is due to faulty rollers? I've been in this house probably 7 years? And it's eally only done this sporadically about the last two years. AND it's always the one side coming off the track. Thank you folks! Update: I just inspected the rollers and everything moves pretty well. I don't see any missing bearings. The only thing I could see that might be an issue is the top two rollers seem canted. So for perspective, if you were looking out the garage, these two rollers, if wheels on a "squat car" would be kinda canted out. Know what I mean? And it's not the roller per se but the mounting bracket is basically MAKING the rollers can't out. I'm thinking this is the issue?
I know right I've been on ride alongs with co-workers and to see who can do it fastest using the hammer to tap out the flat part of the vertical just below the radius curve and vertical meet, using the same hammer popping all them out but tops in like 30 seconds a side so very safe and very easy Unless the door isn't balanced or a steal back in a tight space lol
As a garage door installer i would say you did a fine job! Knowing the tension and where it is located on the door will save a lot of headache and injury. Good work!
Hey Handyman, I have been binge watching your videos for week as I am an electrician myself moving into the home improvement/contractor side of things. The area I live in is near Bozeman, MT, which is booming, is the perfect market for the business strategy that you follow. I am in the process of implementing a lot of the advice you have provided on your channels!! I really like the hats and the red caulk gun shirt is the best!! I just wanted to thank you for being as thorough and open in your videos as you have been.
Don't use socket extensions if you diy. Remember those springs will kill you! I have been to jobs where the homeowner wanted to do it themselves, and I walk into a trail of blood. There's a reason pros exist for this trade.
You did a great job . Being in the garage door industry it was good to hear about the dangers involved with this part of the house. That bottom wheel, cable and springs require respect and awareness that it can go pear shaped quicker than you can blink. Keep up the top videos
I'm sure you dont need any more tools, but I started using Milwaukee's 12 volt fuel impact for most things... man. They are so crazy light and really have enough power for 95% of things. Makes those overhead and awkward position times a lot easier. Also, the explanation for death seemed more tongue in cheek than of real. Thanks again.
Growing up, our 2-car had a heavy wooden door, and a spring that I'm pretty sure was either non-existent or not wound correctly and we didn't have money for fancy crap like garage door openers. If we wanted to ride our bikes, we opened that door manually. Imagine an 8 year old hoisting that unsprung heavy piece of crap up in the air. Several times a day. All summer. That was my brother and me.
You can bend the track out slightly enough to get the roller out at about eye level and one by one open the door so each wheel is in that position and remove the wheel from the track and out of the bracket without removing a single screw in any of the brackets except the very top one which mine only had one screw holding on the part that holds the rod to the wheel so two screws total. When done you bend the one inch section of track back in place, you have to do it in one spot on both sides.
lol... As you say, "tell me what I did wrong" I start typing. The "wheels" are called rollers. and that "rail" you had to deal with is called a strut. First of all. Thank you for emphasizing how dangerous the cable and spring are. You do want to be sure there is no tension on that cable before you start pulling nuts or screws. If you put a vice trip on the track under one of the rollers, it will add a little bit of safety and prevent the door from rolling down the track while the cable is off. I have used this method before, but it's really not the easiest. Usually, you can grab the middle horizontal portion of the track and twist it. This allows you to push the roller up and out of the track. Swap out the roller quick and put it back by twisting the track again. This will work for all but the bottom 1 or 2 rollers.
I absolutely love your channel and hope to have a painting and Remodeling company soon. Focusing on smaller scale stuff at first and working my way to the big time. Thank you for your content and the inspiration!
Shane Falco is scared of quicksand. I'm scared of garage doors. I saw my dad get a wrench on the the door and the tension spun that wrench so damn fast. He got lucky. It went right past his forearm. No doubt about it... His forearm would have been broke if it hit it.
Great video! I have a question. I have a garage door that looks like this one from the inside. I have no idea who made it or where I can get some parts. Can you provide a company name or where I could get parts for this type of wood door. Thanks?
Hi Handyman great work you doing and videos are awesome...Have have a question about the plywood you use to build cabinets, do you use the 3/4" prefinished plywood from Menards???? or do you use other type?? Thank you be safe
It is 3/4 domestic maple with 2 layers of mdf under the outside layer of maple. It is Made in the USA. The layer of mdf makes it so it is perfectly straight and smooth. I get it a hardwoods store.
Any thoughts about insulating regular metal garage doors. Ive had many customers ask me about it and have done a few. quickest and easiest 400 I've ever made. Got it down too just over 1 hr labor time.
Hi justin. I work as a garage door tech in new zealand. Im not sure where you are from but with the doors i install, retro fitting insulation can void the warranty. Reason being is springs are rated to carry an exact amount of weight. You can add tension but as the springs are over worked the warranty will be void. Hope this helps
Just occurred to me that the little metal balls I've found on the floor must be bearings to my garage door wheels.. just had a wheel come off the track and I had to fix the cable too. It was freezing outside so I tapped my wheel back in the track, and see that the wheel was at a severe angle with a lot of play, only seemingly possible if they are missing bearings. Going to see if replacing wheels improves things. Thanks!
i hope next time you have some help with the cámara especially with is the hard and danger spot like it the last roller when you raise the door and the cable is connect to that roller...
you can get most rollers out with the claw of your hammer and new ones back in with a soft tap. its best to put the roller you are trying to remove between the mounting brackets of track
you can always slap a little hot rod red paint on the cable bracket to make it stand out like a sore thumb in the far flung future where the door still exists but the handyman doesn't.
Our Garage Door Opener (Chamberlain) bit the dust because the double-size wood garage door had weak springs. The rollers would also come off the track on one side. So I closed the Garage Door and noticed the springs have a yellow stripe on them. The left spring had nine twists and the right only 7. I believe this imbalance was causing the door to also bind and jump off the track? I bought a couple of 1/2" rods and adjusted the springs equally. I got the door to stay put with it halfway open which I believe is correct. Waiting for the Chamberlain rebuild kit for the Opener. Wife said to update our 1989 Opener but I don't like throwing stuff out - fix it instead. I need to do the rollers and maybe the hinges? Your video will help out immensely. I will say, adjusting the springs as I did was a bit spooky. It took quite a bit of force to twist the spring units. I marked the rods with a felt pen so I could be confident they were all the way in the hole. Since I had my Back broken to almost 2 years ago, I could really feel the pain from the downforce. I put on my Motorcycle Helmet to protect my head. LOL. A contractor we hired broke my Back and pain 24 hours a day gets really old. Breaking your Back (burst fracture L2) is overrated. Avoid at all costs.
Although it sounds like the chain on my garage door opener is pretty loud too so you want the chain 1/2 inch above the centerpoint of the rail there should be adjustment on the trolley where the emergency release roping handle is supposed to be
For the bottom roller changes I disconnect the door from the trolley and loosen top bolts on the bottom roller guide. This allows you to pull the top of the roller guide back and not in line with the upper roller guide and then lift the door up just high enough that the roller can be pulled out and replaced. You put the new roller on, push the door back down, push the roller guide back in place and tighten the bolts.
I just took off bottom roller bracket to replace roller. I unhooked cable and then bottom bracket came off easily, allowing me to replace the roller in the track slide on the bracket and replace one of the screws holding it on the door then I reattached the cable on the bottom bracket and finished tightening it up with the second screw. JDWELTIN
Great video! Just to clarify...for the bottom rollers, you did NOT disconnect the cable from the bracket...right? All you did was ensure there was sufficient slack by raising the door. And then you removed the bracket and changed out the roller. Correct?
Since we are talking “home maintenance”, what are your thoughts on all the garage door maintenance stuff. Like spray lube, tub o grease, and such. If your garage door works fine and not showing signs of needed replacement parts. Do you ever need to lube the spring or spray the wheels?
Lube all the hinges and rollers every 6 months with silicon spray. Even if there is no sign of issues. Lubing will make the door quieter and if you have plastic roller it will make the door run smother.
Separate the vertical track from the radius. Remove the top to lag bolts on the track brackets. Slide the door down 4 in pull out the wheel but the new one back in reassemble. Won't lose your fingers this way
Shouldn't you have lubricated the new rollers? I lube mine every year or so and luckily have never had to change them. I find lithium grease works great. Thanks for sharing.
If every wheel on that side is damaged, doesn't that indicate a problem with the track alignment or something similar? won't this just recur with the new wheels?
How do you charge for a service job like this, when you don’t know exactly how long it’ll take, or how many wheels ( or any job that may need multiple supplies) that need replacing? I’ve been doing t&m with a 4 hour minimum. Some customers find it acceptable , and others flip out.
I bought enough wheels to replace them all. It took about 30 minutes I charged $150. All my customers have been my customers for years. I haven't taken on a new customer in over 2 years. I only give estimates for larger projects.
I much preferred working on the doors with the long springs as opposed to the torsion spring models.. Re-tensioning a torsion spring on an old rusty door( using a couple steel rods) is pretty nerve wracking. I see you avoided that here. Corrosion at the lower corners was common.
I almost did “die” in 1995 because I did not know what the hell I was doing while removing two wooden overhead doors. a little voice told me to prop a 2 x 4 underneath which saved me. (Don’t ask.)
next time use nylon wheels - they have ball bearings make a lot less noise . also put a little lube on the axles - clean the tracks and lube up all of the door hinges , lube the springs and the bearings on the cables pulley's
We used to take our two solid steel winding bars in the spring cone and back wind it till the tension is off, leave the bar in the cone, braced on the header, and pop in a new roller. Safe? Yes but🤞
The most important thing I would have done different would be to buy nylon wheels vs metal ones. The nylon wheels if you buy good ones (Dura-Lift Ultra Life Max Nylon Rollers) will last much longer and are much quieter than the metal ones.
Since his door is much heavier than a standard door, best to get rollers rated for that extra weight -- dunno if nylon rollers will hold up in this application.
Hey so I want to give you some tips because I do garage doors all the time so whoever did your garage door opener mounted it way too high it’s supposed to be about 2 inches at least when the garage door is fully to its highest point is where it supposed to be because if it’s too high up it puts a lot of pressure on the top panel and if you buy steel rollers at your home center they don’t last long worth a damn and you have to spend more more money on rollers that are made in China and the crap I recommend going off of a garage door dealer Or off of Amazon for a door that size you can go with commercial grade rollers yes in back your mind you were saying how much will this cost for garage door that size probably $50-$60 depending on the type you buy but I recommend nylon rollers not the plastic ones the type that is no one on the outside and steel bearings on the inside it will make your garage or sound really quiet and it works really well if you have any questions of anything let me know
With the door down, I make markings on the wall around the vertical track's mounting brackets then remove the vertical track (one at a time) - typically 4 bolts per side. Change all pulleys and reinstall track using the markings for proper alignment.
That's what I started thinking about as I was watching. But I didn't get that far yet. I was thinking of removing the top track so he could lift the door and replace as he goes. But then the door would bend as it got higher. Then I see this and think. Yes. This makes more sense to me.
What do I do if, half way in the process of raising, the rails screech like they're dying? I've sprayed every conceivable moving part with lithium lube and it just seems like something is rubbing somewhere I can't see.
Check to see if the door is square or not - it may just be closing on a slight angle & scraping the rail. (Instead of closing smoothly straight up & down.) If so, a slight door re-allignment should solve the problem. With the door closed, see if any daylight come thru the door's top, bottom & sides unevenly, one side vs the other. If so, there are screws you can turn to square the door up. But I forget which ones. Best to YT or Google it.)
@@droolbunnyxo9565 It definitely has light coming in on the sides near the bottom more than the top but I just assumed that was because I don't have any sealing trim and was going to install it. I'll look into how to adjust it.
You asked for critique, so you could have had better lighting and more closeups to see the details. Other than that, great work. Thanks. I had to replace the spring on a garage door because the old spring broke. Where I live, doing that in the summer is like working inside an oven because the door is too heavy to lift with the spring disconnected. No air and it wasn't even a dry heat.
Another way of doing it and the way we pros do it in Sweden mostly: - turn of power to motor - raise the door 10 inches - lock the gate to the rails with either a speciality tool or heavy duty screw clamps - attach a friction lock to the wire (called a lingroda or a ropefrog in Swedish) - from the friction lock attach a ratchet strap or a kito chain pulley to the rails below the lock and pull down. - this tensions the spring and creates slack on the lowest bracket. Now you are able to change the roller from a nice working height. This works for all doors. With that said I think your way of working is very safe and also can be made without speciality tools.
I always put a ladder under those doors, just in case. Maybe overly cautious but it only takes a second and I don't trust the doors to work like they should.
![Garage Door Rollers and Hinges Replacement [How to *2019 Updated]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cwYdmlnpfWI/mqdefault.jpg)
Just a warning from an experienced door guy, there's a lot of folks talking about removing the vertical track one by one to change all of the rollers at once; I would like to tell you why this is not a good idea.
If you remove your vertical track on either side of your door there is still a possibility that your bottom section will fold backwards, and cause a considerable amount of damage, especially on wider, and/or thinner worn out doors. Even worse, your door could be pulled out of the other track, and at that point you are going to need a new door, and possibly a trip to the ICU.
Just take into consideration that some of the people here offering advice may not have a clue what they are talking about.
As a 25-year Garage Tech, I would like to suggest that you use a different technique for replacing the bottom roller. The way you do it opens you up to a myriad of potential problems(cable popping off the drum, fighting with the bottom seal, etc.). The easiest way is to raise the door and loosen the verticle track enough to be able to pop the bottom roller(and only the bottom roller) out of the track for replacement. Or use the other technique you mention by bending a small area of the verticle track with a vice grip and use a pry bar to pop the roller out for replacement. This is the way I do it. It's fast, easy, and wayyyyyyy safer. That being said, thank you for going over the dangers of the spring and explaining where the spring tension is held. I've been to many aftermath scenarios after someone effed up and lost a finger, maimed themselves, or even died. I've seen all 3. Keep up the good work.
I saw a guy almost get his face ripped off from that spring. Thanks for the great videos.
door tech here, you could just take the vertical track off and replace them all in one go. one side at a time of course.
Make us a video please!
Please provide a link to this 'whole track' method!
Do not do this method, you do understand, the bottom of the door is connected to a cable, at the other end of that cable is a very large, very strong spring with all force concentrated on upward pressure, that track is hold the door in place while the stopped opener keeps it in place, you remove the entire track? Think…
@@steventyler2813 Something inside tells me that you actual right.
Oops
I used to do this for a living, and bending the track is easier and faster. All you need is a set of vise-grip pliers and a flathead screwdriver. Also, install nylon coated rollers instead.
Just replaced the springs and did a complete overhaul: springs, cable, bearings and rollers.. Used the nylon rollers and they are quiet! Definitely the way to go. 😊
I never knew how heavy a garage door was until the spring broke one day... couldn't budge the thing.
Thumbs up just for the title of the video! 😂😂
Man perfect timing!!! I wanted to do this this week!!!! Go Handyman
This is the 4th video I've watched on replacing rollers, but the first that didn't involve bending the track(s) at some point. Thanks!
That was a great video! I had no idea how to do a project like this. Really good tips about the cable. Wow, I pity the poor people who find that out the hard way!
Been installing and servicing garage doors for about 6 years now and doing it the way you said was not preferable (prying track open and then sliding hinge and roller out) is by far the easiest and safest way to do it. takes me all of about 3 minutes to swap out 10 rollers on a 7ft garage door. however, at least you were aware that the bottom bracket is under tension...99% of customers think the garage door opener does all the lifting.
I been installing doors and service for about 10 years now. The easiest and safest way i found to replace rollers and any door is to remove the vertical. Bam replace all rollers in 10 seconds
@@96712 Not safe at all, if the door is under tension you risk damaging your bottom section, especially on wider doors, not to mention the possibility of it folding completely backwards, being pulled out of the opposite track, and losing the entire door.
@@InuranusBrokoff well according to your comment, it sounds like you’ve never worked on a overhead sectional door. Do 1 side at a time. Done it on very large doors. Large as in 25x16 2” thick doors. Less than 5 mins.
Hey all you garage guru's (seriously, not being snarky), I have a garage door that's come off the track about 5 times now (I KNOW, why haven't I called a garage door guy yet)......point is I'm curious...is it your opinion the most likely reason this has happened is due to faulty rollers? I've been in this house probably 7 years? And it's eally only done this sporadically about the last two years. AND it's always the one side coming off the track. Thank you folks! Update: I just inspected the rollers and everything moves pretty well. I don't see any missing bearings. The only thing I could see that might be an issue is the top two rollers seem canted. So for perspective, if you were looking out the garage, these two rollers, if wheels on a "squat car" would be kinda canted out. Know what I mean? And it's not the roller per se but the mounting bracket is basically MAKING the rollers can't out. I'm thinking this is the issue?
I know right I've been on ride alongs with co-workers and to see who can do it fastest using the hammer to tap out the flat part of the vertical just below the radius curve and vertical meet, using the same hammer popping all them out but tops in like 30 seconds a side so very safe and very easy
Unless the door isn't balanced or a steal back in a tight space lol
These videos are sooooo addicting!!!! I am retaining none of what you're saying and doing but it makes no difference, I'll keep watching anyway 🤷♀️
Much love Richard's Painting Service INC. Good job you are the man, the handy man
Thank you for posting!
Thanks for this sir, you are a gentleman and a scholar!
Thanks handyman. That is a good job to be able to do.
As a garage door installer i would say you did a fine job! Knowing the tension and where it is located on the door will save a lot of headache and injury. Good work!
Hey Handyman,
I have been binge watching your videos for week as I am an electrician myself moving into the home improvement/contractor side of things. The area I live in is near Bozeman, MT, which is booming, is the perfect market for the business strategy that you follow. I am in the process of implementing a lot of the advice you have provided on your channels!! I really like the hats and the red caulk gun shirt is the best!! I just wanted to thank you for being as thorough and open in your videos as you have been.
Great video. I like it. Thank you.
Always wondered how to safely change that last wheel. Thanks!
We call the last one the “widow maker.” 😂
Thank you I normally pass these jobs to a garage door specialist. Now I can do it myself safely.
Very Cool Method. Keep it safe and great job. I enjoyed the video. i love working on garage doors too.😉
I am SO Glad that you were able to ACCOMPLISH this SIMPLE task without someone having to play The TAPS!
Glad to see you back! I bet you didn't know you were gone :)
This is a great vid man!
How about a vid on tensioning/replacing a spring
czcams.com/video/1hoowryn78Q/video.html Here you go.
The Handyman I knew I’ve seen something like this from you 👍🏼
Don't use socket extensions if you diy. Remember those springs will kill you! I have been to jobs where the homeowner wanted to do it themselves, and I walk into a trail of blood. There's a reason pros exist for this trade.
You did a great job . Being in the garage door industry it was good to hear about the dangers involved with this part of the house. That bottom wheel, cable and springs require respect and awareness that it can go pear shaped quicker than you can blink. Keep up the top videos
I'm sure you dont need any more tools, but I started using Milwaukee's 12 volt fuel impact for most things... man. They are so crazy light and really have enough power for 95% of things. Makes those overhead and awkward position times a lot easier.
Also, the explanation for death seemed more tongue in cheek than of real.
Thanks again.
I have the little bosch like that, it is the one I use the most. I only get the bigger one out if the little one is not strong enough.
about to purchase a hat for myself. thank you, handyman.
Great video 👍
Growing up, our 2-car had a heavy wooden door, and a spring that I'm pretty sure was either non-existent or not wound correctly and we didn't have money for fancy crap like garage door openers. If we wanted to ride our bikes, we opened that door manually. Imagine an 8 year old hoisting that unsprung heavy piece of crap up in the air. Several times a day. All summer. That was my brother and me.
I'd say you gained some muscle
And character
Thx for the vid, was wondering how I was going to replace the bottom rollers, after having done the rest.
Handyman you did nothing wrong 👍 your the best ! Thanks for the video
I didn’t even know my life needed saved! Thanks Handyman!
If you didn’t know then you’ve never had the garage cables swing at you.
I had that happen, just once...I learn quickly LOL
Great, great show 🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🔧🔧🔩🔧🔧🔩🔩🔩🔨🔨🔨🔨
Thanks! 😃
Good job
Nice video, would love to see how you handle the bolts into an aluminum door. They are fussy and strip easily, not my fav.
Hey little confused by what to do with that pulley on the bottom wheel? When you push up the door to give it slack what do you do after that? Thanks
You can bend the track out slightly enough to get the roller out at about eye level and one by one open the door so each wheel is in that position and remove the wheel from the track and out of the bracket without removing a single screw in any of the brackets except the very top one which mine only had one screw holding on the part that holds the rod to the wheel so two screws total. When done you bend the one inch section of track back in place, you have to do it in one spot on both sides.
ok... Looking forward to this one...
lol... As you say, "tell me what I did wrong" I start typing. The "wheels" are called rollers. and that "rail" you had to deal with is called a strut.
First of all. Thank you for emphasizing how dangerous the cable and spring are. You do want to be sure there is no tension on that cable before you start pulling nuts or screws. If you put a vice trip on the track under one of the rollers, it will add a little bit of safety and prevent the door from rolling down the track while the cable is off.
I have used this method before, but it's really not the easiest. Usually, you can grab the middle horizontal portion of the track and twist it. This allows you to push the roller up and out of the track. Swap out the roller quick and put it back by twisting the track again. This will work for all but the bottom 1 or 2 rollers.
Do you center the wheels on the track or push them against the back of the track?
I need that hat and shirt!
Was that cable a loop or a n0053? I don’t know if I should be outraged! (Sarcasm)
LOL.
Took me a sec to figure that out.
Yet another N word we can't use anymore.
I absolutely love your channel and hope to have a painting and Remodeling company soon. Focusing on smaller scale stuff at first and working my way to the big time.
Thank you for your content and the inspiration!
Thats how I started.
Do you have to use an impact driver? Can u use a drill / driver?
I like this method
Shane Falco is scared of quicksand. I'm scared of garage doors.
I saw my dad get a wrench on the the door and the tension spun that wrench so damn fast. He got lucky. It went right past his forearm. No doubt about it... His forearm would have been broke if it hit it.
Great video! I have a question. I have a garage door that looks like this one from the inside. I have no idea who made it or where I can get some parts. Can you provide a company name or where I could get parts for this type of wood door. Thanks?
please talk about that microphone set up that you are using. thanks in advance.
Hi Handyman great work you doing and videos are awesome...Have have a question about the plywood you use to build cabinets, do you use the 3/4" prefinished plywood from Menards???? or do you use other type?? Thank you be safe
It is 3/4 domestic maple with 2 layers of mdf under the outside layer of maple. It is Made in the USA. The layer of mdf makes it so it is perfectly straight and smooth. I get it a hardwoods store.
Never any doubt of you fixing it. I've seen you destroy a toilet and live stream all morning, you have no fear
Any thoughts about insulating regular metal garage doors. Ive had many customers ask me about it and have done a few. quickest and easiest 400 I've ever made. Got it down too just over 1 hr labor time.
Hi justin. I work as a garage door tech in new zealand. Im not sure where you are from but with the doors i install, retro fitting insulation can void the warranty. Reason being is springs are rated to carry an exact amount of weight. You can add tension but as the springs are over worked the warranty will be void. Hope this helps
Just occurred to me that the little metal balls I've found on the floor must be bearings to my garage door wheels.. just had a wheel come off the track and I had to fix the cable too. It was freezing outside so I tapped my wheel back in the track, and see that the wheel was at a severe angle with a lot of play, only seemingly possible if they are missing bearings. Going to see if replacing wheels improves things. Thanks!
Thanks Mr. Handyman! Now I won't get my face ripped off when I change my rollers
i hope next time you have some help with the cámara especially with is the hard and danger spot like it the last roller when you raise the door and the cable is connect to that roller...
you can get most rollers out with the claw of your hammer and new ones back in with a soft tap. its best to put the roller you are trying to remove between the mounting brackets of track
you can always slap a little hot rod red paint on the cable bracket to make it stand out like a sore thumb in the far flung future where the door still exists but the handyman doesn't.
Our Garage Door Opener (Chamberlain) bit the dust because the double-size wood garage door had weak springs. The rollers would also come off the track on one side. So I closed the Garage Door and noticed the springs have a yellow stripe on them. The left spring had nine twists and the right only 7. I believe this imbalance was causing the door to also bind and jump off the track? I bought a couple of 1/2" rods and adjusted the springs equally. I got the door to stay put with it halfway open which I believe is correct. Waiting for the Chamberlain rebuild kit for the Opener. Wife said to update our 1989 Opener but I don't like throwing stuff out - fix it instead.
I need to do the rollers and maybe the hinges? Your video will help out immensely. I will say, adjusting the springs as I did was a bit spooky. It took quite a bit of force to twist the spring units. I marked the rods with a felt pen so I could be confident they were all the way in the hole. Since I had my Back broken to almost 2 years ago, I could really feel the pain from the downforce. I put on my Motorcycle Helmet to protect my head. LOL. A contractor we hired broke my Back and pain 24 hours a day gets really old. Breaking your Back (burst fracture L2) is overrated. Avoid at all costs.
Atta boy ROCKY!!!
On the wheels serviceable, Grease? Should you the wheels in sets all at once or after a certain amount of time? Thumbs up and subscribed!
Although it sounds like the chain on my garage door opener is pretty loud too so you want the chain 1/2 inch above the centerpoint of the rail there should be adjustment on the trolley where the emergency release roping handle is supposed to be
For the bottom roller changes I disconnect the door from the trolley and loosen top bolts on the bottom roller guide. This allows you to pull the top of the roller guide back and not in line with the upper roller guide and then lift the door up just high enough that the roller can be pulled out and replaced. You put the new roller on, push the door back down, push the roller guide back in place and tighten the bolts.
I just took off bottom roller bracket to replace roller. I unhooked cable and then bottom bracket came off easily, allowing me to replace the roller in the track slide on the bracket and replace one of the screws holding it on the door then I reattached the cable on the bottom bracket and finished tightening it up with the second screw. JDWELTIN
Great video! Just to clarify...for the bottom rollers, you did NOT disconnect the cable from the bracket...right? All you did was ensure there was sufficient slack by raising the door. And then you removed the bracket and changed out the roller. Correct?
Since we are talking “home maintenance”, what are your thoughts on all the garage door maintenance stuff. Like spray lube, tub o grease, and such. If your garage door works fine and not showing signs of needed replacement parts. Do you ever need to lube the spring or spray the wheels?
Lube all the hinges and rollers every 6 months with silicon spray. Even if there is no sign of issues. Lubing will make the door quieter and if you have plastic roller it will make the door run smother.
Also the spring and bearings in the head plates
Separate the vertical track from the radius. Remove the top to lag bolts on the track brackets. Slide the door down 4 in pull out the wheel but the new one back in reassemble. Won't lose your fingers this way
That beard kicks ass!!!
Thanks
Replace with Nylon wheels.
Also, coat your wheel shaft with heat shrink tubing.
Shouldn't you have lubricated the new rollers? I lube mine every year or so and luckily have never had to change them. I find lithium grease works great. Thanks for sharing.
You make it look easy as always.
Do we get a secret decoder pin with the secret society hat and secret society t-shirt. lol
That would be cool. I will work on it.
Good video had replaced my door rollers the same way glad you confirm that I did it right.
If every wheel on that side is damaged, doesn't that indicate a problem with the track alignment or something similar? won't this just recur with the new wheels?
How do you charge for a service job like this, when you don’t know exactly how long it’ll take, or how many wheels ( or any job that may need multiple supplies) that need replacing? I’ve been doing t&m with a 4 hour minimum. Some customers find it acceptable , and others flip out.
I bought enough wheels to replace them all. It took about 30 minutes I charged $150. All my customers have been my customers for years. I haven't taken on a new customer in over 2 years. I only give estimates for larger projects.
Do you have floppy hats?
Have you done how to Reshingle a roof?
Many times I use to work as a roofer.
I much preferred working on the doors with the long springs as opposed to the torsion spring models.. Re-tensioning a torsion spring on an old rusty door( using a couple steel rods) is pretty nerve wracking. I see you avoided that here. Corrosion at the lower corners was common.
Bend the track out or pop it out with a claw hammer. Never take the bottom bracket off if at all possible.
I almost did “die” in 1995 because I did not know what the hell I was doing while removing two wooden overhead doors.
a little voice told me to prop a 2 x 4 underneath which saved me. (Don’t ask.)
🙏
I unbolted the bottom one while the door was down once.... only once. That's how I learned of this bad idea.
Plastic or steel wheels?
He’s putting the old metal wheels back in there just new wow 🙈🙈🙈🙉🙊🙊
what you need is some more hangers for your shelves
next time use nylon wheels - they have ball bearings make a lot less noise . also put a little lube on the axles - clean the tracks and lube up all of the door hinges , lube the springs and the bearings on the cables pulley's
We used to take our two solid steel winding bars in the spring cone and back wind it till the tension is off, leave the bar in the cone, braced on the header, and pop in a new roller. Safe? Yes but🤞
Also put a pair of grips on the cable for weight when you disconnect the bottom plate to keep the cable on the pully
Handyman, you missed a perfect opportunity to use W-D40 lol
The most important thing I would have done different would be to buy nylon wheels vs metal ones. The nylon wheels if you buy good ones (Dura-Lift Ultra Life Max Nylon Rollers) will last much longer and are much quieter than the metal ones.
Since his door is much heavier than a standard door, best to get rollers rated for that extra weight -- dunno if nylon rollers will hold up in this application.
where to buy quality roller?
Hey so I want to give you some tips because I do garage doors all the time so whoever did your garage door opener mounted it way too high it’s supposed to be about 2 inches at least when the garage door is fully to its highest point is where it supposed to be because if it’s too high up it puts a lot of pressure on the top panel and if you buy steel rollers at your home center they don’t last long worth a damn and you have to spend more more money on rollers that are made in China and the crap I recommend going off of a garage door dealer Or off of Amazon for a door that size you can go with commercial grade rollers yes in back your mind you were saying how much will this cost for garage door that size probably $50-$60 depending on the type you buy but I recommend nylon rollers not the plastic ones the type that is no one on the outside and steel bearings on the inside it will make your garage or sound really quiet and it works really well if you have any questions of anything let me know
I don’t want to die so I’m going to call an expert. Do my part to stimulate the economy 😁☀️
Gloves, eye protection and grease the shafts before you put them in. Otherwise, pretty cool.
You’re talking about greasing the roller shaft? Why?
That spring is NO JOKE!!!
Has The Handyman gone Hollywood on us? Looks like hes doing repairs while wearing what seems to be a Rolex. Big Money!!
With the door down, I make markings on the wall around the vertical track's mounting brackets then remove the vertical track (one at a time) - typically 4 bolts per side. Change all pulleys and reinstall track using the markings for proper alignment.
That's what I started thinking about as I was watching. But I didn't get that far yet. I was thinking of removing the top track so he could lift the door and replace as he goes. But then the door would bend as it got higher.
Then I see this and think. Yes. This makes more sense to me.
What do I do if, half way in the process of raising, the rails screech like they're dying? I've sprayed every conceivable moving part with lithium lube and it just seems like something is rubbing somewhere I can't see.
Check to see if the door is square or not - it may just be closing on a slight angle & scraping the rail. (Instead of closing smoothly straight up & down.) If so, a slight door re-allignment should solve the problem.
With the door closed, see if any daylight come thru the door's top, bottom & sides unevenly, one side vs the other. If so, there are screws you can turn to square the door up. But I forget which ones. Best to YT or Google it.)
@@droolbunnyxo9565 It definitely has light coming in on the sides near the bottom more than the top but I just assumed that was because I don't have any sealing trim and was going to install it. I'll look into how to adjust it.
You asked for critique, so you could have had better lighting and more closeups to see the details. Other than that, great work. Thanks. I had to replace the spring on a garage door because the old spring broke. Where I live, doing that in the summer is like working inside an oven because the door is too heavy to lift with the spring disconnected. No air and it wasn't even a dry heat.
I agree on the lighting. It wasn't a good recording area.
Another way of doing it and the way we pros do it in Sweden mostly:
- turn of power to motor
- raise the door 10 inches
- lock the gate to the rails with either a speciality tool or heavy duty screw clamps
- attach a friction lock to the wire (called a lingroda or a ropefrog in Swedish)
- from the friction lock attach a ratchet strap or a kito chain pulley to the rails below the lock and pull down.
- this tensions the spring and creates slack on the lowest bracket. Now you are able to change the roller from a nice working height.
This works for all doors.
With that said I think your way of working is very safe and also can be made without speciality tools.
I always put a ladder under those doors, just in case. Maybe overly cautious but it only takes a second and I don't trust the doors to work like they should.
Lucky you didn’t get hurt taking off the bottom Fixture 🍀
I recognize that door. Only one market has that in every house hahaha.
I replaced all of my rollers today, no issues.