SBC Stroker 500+ Ftlbs! 470+hp *Details in Video* Big Block Torque!
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- čas přidán 27. 05. 2022
- Pump Gas and Power Brake Friendly combo!
Here's another recipe with a cam that alot of you guys have been asking about! XR282HR-10
A SBC 388 Stroker that makes 470+hp and 500+ ftlbs of torque without even pushing it past 5500 rpm! This is a great combo for just about any street/strip hotrod.
Engine ran on 91 octane gas, Holley 750 DP, Hei distributor 36 deg total timing.
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Intake (not polished)
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Be still, my heart!
Best sbc video site on the internet!
Wow man really appreciate the support, thank you
I’m glad you did this maybe we can see a big block soon
I run 11:1 compression 400 sbc with pump gas 93 octane. The camshaft is a big flat tappet 305° 535 lift Howard's cam with 200cc runner 64cc chamber aluminum heads all the overlap bleeds out some compression. I run 34° degrees of timing runs 11:50s @115mph in my s10. Forget what engine builders call it static or dynamic compression ratio idk but it works well for me.
Yes sir thats called dynamic compression. Its where you take the cam timing into consideration.
puttin a 580hp 434 stroker in my s10
That’s nice!, what are you redlining that engine at?
@@hugieflhr03 5800-6000 , i have a full race one i could build that would make 700 turned down n i could turn it 7200
@@hugieflhr03 6500 rpm
My 400 cu inch Chevy Stroked 2 a 427 cu inches.
660 hp & 640 ft lbs in Australia
Sounds like a wild combo!
Great video and thanks for the info, It defiantly will work for the guy looking for a hot street motor or for a towing rig. How about doing the same thing with a a stock size 396 or 454 with peanut port heads. I inherited a mint 1974 C10 ramp truck that needed an engine and stumbled on a Gen 5 454 with the small peanut heads for nothing. Added rod bearings and rings, put a larger set of intake valves in the heads, installed a Comp XE268H cam, a used Weiand dual plane went on top with a Fitech Easy Street 600hp throttle body injector on it. The truck had a Turbo 400 and a 3:55 posi rear. On those long uphill's in West Virginia with a '71 Buick LeSabre convertible on the back that truck easily pulled those hills at 75 mph with lots to spare. It was out of breath at 4500 but it pulled like a freight train to almost 5000. I would love to see that combo with a strong roller cam on the dyno to see what it would really put out. There are lots of those Gen 5's in the yards going for cheap, 4 bolt main too.
Great video. Thanks for the info!
Great combo 👍🏻🇦🇺
Wow, I avoided using 200+ sized heads for fear of having to rev a motor to the moon but awesome low end torque and 470 at 5400 is super stout! 👌 I have a 66 lemans with a 400 pontiac.youll never pay so much for so little power when it comes to a pontiac. This combo is making me itch to pull the poncho and build a sbc like this one!
Your right on that one! Pontiacs are very expensive to build for the power you get.
I do have some pontiac stuff coming up
@@cuttersperformance awesome, I'd ove to see some porting tactics and flowbench numbers . Pontiac guys are lol worse than mopar guys , I have a couple books on building pontiacs but no info on what works . Always been a chevy guy but wanted o try a lil something different. I was appalled by the pontiac ports being smaller than an sbc. I knew it would be an uphill battle. Great work man love the channel and info!
Well the valves are still 2.02 and 1.6 and with 388 cubes and a mild roller that would be all around middle rpm cam for a 355 with good heads and compression. This shortblock eats 200cc pretty easily, and is about what 180 ish cc on a 355 would be in comparison. Excellent fat power street combination just like the 355 shown earlier that one has 465 torque!
@@zAvAvAz these heads withy the right valvetrain are good for well over 500 HP because of the head flow but the dual plane helps the big torque. most of the time a 220CC head would make use of a super victor with no issue because of the port sizes. the limiting factors is those hyper pistons and an external balanced 5.7 rodded 383.
maybe id run it to 6500 but not much past that..a dart SHP200 top end would be perfect for this short block and the xr288HR the next step up
Vey impressive, especially that torque curve for a SBC. Thanks for sharing.
The camshaft was /is the same spec as a Jet Sprint Boat out of Australia 20+ yrs ago . Things in engine building have moved on remarkably since then .
Carby is a 750 with 50cc pumps from Memory.. !!! Has a gr8 Dart Wilson single plane manifold.
@@robertphillips3078 Not sure what motor you're referring to but the above motor has a Pro-Comp dual plane, air gap, intake manifold.
@@USARAY1947
Mine is a 400 Chevy, converted 2 4 bolt main caps . 427 striker. 11:1comp . Bowtie heads ( steel ) have been extremely well ported .
The rocker geometry was race spec . The engine builder did some trick stuff . Happy with its performance. Now days l would go a different route . 441 Windsor with the Hammerhead Performance Hemi Heads . Not sure which manifold .
Awesome brother
Lots of good combos out there. The main thing is to think it through and select parts that work together. No big cams and a single plane with a stock converter and tall gears.
An XR294HR would work well in a 3200 lb car with a TH350, 10" Converter, 4.10 with a 406 ci with Flat Tops, Brodix IK200 / 70cc and a Victor Jr.
Not so well in a stock 305 with 8.2 compression in a 5000 lb 4x4 with 33's, 3.08 and stock converter.
Good numbers pat
Wow, that has some low end grunt!
Nice vid Pat. This is a great street engine for a Malibu or a mc (mine weighs 3200lbs) 3.73 gears 2800 converter an a drag radial, easy low twelve's in quarter mile with good drivability on street.
I have the same set up in a MC. Hoping for 12s
Nice street engine!
Awesome 😎
Awesome ❤
Yeah that T-bucket is gonna be a handful, but fun. Make sure you got it pointed straight!
That would be a blast to drive on the streets!
For sure it would be!
Yes sir. I'm running same set up in a gutted s10. Th350 3200 stall with 3.42 gear. It's a blast but gotta watch the downshift on passing... gets hairy quickly 😁
love to see a buick 350 build. real unicorns in the gm world.
Really interesting to the point with part numbers, Dyno numbers..great stuff.
I've been holding back on my build but the 305 is getting tiring faster than I thought.. rings/smoke.
its toast, rebuild it before block machining is necessary. i would use a 3.625" crank with 6" rods, and 4 corner deck the block to the pistons with final measurement assembled with pistons barely O.OO3" out top of block. Then a O.O4O" cometic head gasket. Then a hardened comp hydraulic roller cam. And Brodix aluminum heads with smaller valves that fit. Do porting of blended bowls and valve job and seats. cc the heads and pistons to a target 9.75:1 static compression. i forgot what 305 bores to, although i find people say the block is weaker than the 350 because of thinning everywhere. So reinforce the main caps and the lifter valley girdle. Then no worries except weak ass cylinder bores, may want some extra checking out the block and sonic testing. Could fill to 1.5" of bottom of block coolant area with some high heat hard epoxy or block fill or step up to a roller 350 or 400 block. Top with an edelbrock EPS intake. This shall be a great street engine with no hugely noticable diffence from a mild built 355 except maybe even more power :o).
afr 190 vortec head and intake, 383 218@050 cam would love to see the tq on that
Love single pattern cams, they just seem to make more tq
Shame about eq and pro topline those heads rocked and gave a good stealth factor
Yeah they were awesome heads! Kinda wish I didn't sell this set haha
oh yeaahh! 🤩 here is the combo i am thinking about: World products pro lightweight molecular iron 240,000+ psi (178 LBS.) block $2360. bore from unfinished 4.115" to a finished 4.2" bore, 9.025" finished deck it comes with. Forged 3.8" crank with 2" rod journals. 6.125" rods with 2" journals. And 1.000" compression height x 4.2" bore pistons. XR288HR10 hydraulic roller cam. AFR or BRODIX sts cnc 227cc heads holley or holley style 850cfm or round abouts. AFR dual plane intake. 10.3:1 target static compression.
That would be a real nice combo 👌 expensive as heck but nice haha
@@cuttersperformance yeah, it is overkill for sure, really i like your combo just as good and better for price also. Thank you soo much for this Omazing build it is soo awesome. Really i wish i knew what the ultimate best heads for hand porting are for chevy. Looking at brodix STS T1 cnc 227cc aluminum heads for this, to try to match these excellent prepared EQ heads you have on this thing, its awesome.
Love every thing on the build except the eq heads! Love to see a similar build with some vortech heads with 1.94 and 1.60 valves or Dart heads. EQ's are hard to find.
Yeah they are great heads but hard to find but given current part supply I had to use up some inventory.
But dont worry, im currently working on a set of vortec heads for a future build. Once I can get custom grinds again the dingle ball will also be back!
@@cuttersperformance new to the Vortec heads. Just put a set on my 1973 L82 build. Is it ok to lift the engine with a carb plate on an Aluminum intake manifold? Thanks.
@@andybailey6763 yeah just make sure the bolts all as long as possible into the intake
I believe the future of making HP lies in connecting rods.there are so many configurations of rods that haven't yet been experimented with.I think Ducati has taken some formula one technology and connected one piston to two rods to reduce vibration and increase durability but that's the tip of the iceberg.one company has came out with a two piece rod that is said to increase low end torque by 30% by allowing the piston to fall down the bore faster or something like that.anyway we've played around with cranks,cams,heads etc and I believe it's time to look beyond the plain old connecting rods to make ridiculous HP in combination with the other technology we have now.but that's just me.
Currently building my first engine which is a 383 , hoping to make 450 torque max but man 500 is insane, hopefully I can handle the torque since it will be going in a lifted jimmy with 4.88 gears and 35” tires
Itll feel like a mild 350 in that jimmy lol
485tq / 495 hp 395sbc /weiand 7530 single plain / 195 street AFR / flat tops/ 1 3/4 qtr pipes / 230-236 HR . 750cfm holley , peak hp 5800--6000rpm
What thickness head gasket did you use ?
Great 👍 info, great build
Thanks
👍🏼
Nice engine!
My only question is, will a 4L60e handle this over the years in my 1/2 ton pickup.
I used quite a bit of info from this channel to do my build (353 SBC, Vortec top end). I would like to get a bit more torque out of it, though.
Thanks PCP!
I just subscribed to your channel..
Would like to see how the Howard’s 111145-12 cam performs with this combo since that’s the cam I’m going with
I have those exact heads on a 385 with a crower 288R 1.6 RR and a victor Jr and 750HP. cranking compression is 155 psi and idle vacuum is 10# at 1000 rpm. It's a lot of fun in my S10. Never dyno'd
Kinda wish I went the XR288 on this one but I already had the 282 and its certainly a cam i get asked about alot. Sounds like you got yourself a nice combo!
@@cuttersperformance what intake gaskets are you using?
@@6426yy felpro 1206
@@cuttersperformance would the 288hr cam loose torque at lower rpm? Looking to build a very similar engine for my 97 k1500 which one of the 2 cams would you recommend for my application?
@@user-hu2ds2ql9z Smaller one
Sounds like a good build. I'm wanting to do a budget build. 91 suburban 88k miles. I'd like to freshen the bottom then add some HP. I was given some low hour heads from a boat (14096217). These heads look new. Are they worth putting on. I'd prefer low end power. I want to keep the TBI. I've put a high pressure fuel pump in tank already. Just wondering what your 2 cents would be?
Maybe a subscriber has done it and has 2 cents. Do people still use this term?
Thanks very much for your channel.
So, would using a smaller cam mess with the torque? Of course you would lose some horsepower up top but would the “trade off” be the same the other way? Maybe lower rpm same or more torque? Possibly towing application or fun street motor. Would a smaller cam run into problems with that size of head?
👍👍🔧
My 383 made 483 foot pounds of torque at 4300 RPMs and it made on the break-in 5300 I ran it up to it made 445 horsepower but I'm only using 200cc Pro 1 DART heads and you're using two twenties so maybe that's where the difference is in the horsepower I'm reusing it black MSD distributor and two step that ya love the power than small block 383 make mine's 78 block I have a 73 400 that I'm getting ready stroke out to a 421 the 383 don't have a very big cam in it only 512 left person roller cam probably buy some 220 heads for the 400 but 383 being nice ride my 87 Firebird have fun thanks for the video later bye
Pat do I need to worry about my k5 having a 2bolt main? Goal is 600hp with nitrous b4 I build a full race engine for her.
damn I have a 388 with a Comp Cam 292 camshaft & a QFT 750 with dogleg boosters...
what was the dyno correction factor? i built a similar build with the xr288 - its WILD, cranking psi was 220! absolute nutty on the street - havent dynoed yet cos i blew the tranny up in 150 miles thrashing on it..
Get the compression up to 210-225 and that thing would be an absolute BEAST. run e85 to keep the tuning window wide.
Yeah for sure! If i had better access to E85 around my area it would be fun to play with.
Had to keep this safe for a easy high torque pump gas combo
@@cuttersperformance it would also be interesting to see how much area under the curve could be gained with multi port fuel injection and a timing map that isn't at the mercy of a vacuum advance canister and mechanical advance weights. Thinking terminator x and first tpi or a super ram would just pump up power below peak EVERYWHERE. Then maybe play with some a/r cans with placement dictated by pipemaxx. Nice little 75-125 shot and you'd have a street beast that should go 50,000 miles without too much headache, and enough torque from 1800-2300 to work with 3.45 rear gears and overdrive transmission. It really would be an amazing daily driver build in a third gen or c4, s-10, OBS etc
Sweet build. I would think that if it runs 91 octane with those heads and 10.25 compression that aluminum heads with a 3/4 point more would be ok, and with the timing at 36 you could drop it back 2-4 degrees if you get knock.
Ive found with pump gas and power thats its often times better to run abit lower compression and full timing rather than more compression and back off the timing from optional to stop knock. Theres abit of a teeter-toder effect but ignition timing is key
@@cuttersperformance Yes. ignition timing is more important first. adjust compression to work with what the engine wants in the car on a chassis dyno and it shall be closer to the same to as on the dyno stand. And run the best in the car. Stoichometric and lambda to adjust the carb induction so it is not too lean with compression if high.
step up build
400 cuin , same 282 cam , weiand 7530 s/p manifold , afr 195 eliminator street heads 2.05 valve , 10.5 CR, 1 3/4 headers 495hp at 6000rpm and 500ft/ lbs Tq
if i build one similar, 195cc trickflow heads, 224/232 duration cam, rpm air gap, 670cfm holley, with 2500 stall converter, 3.73 gears. you think this would be a good combo for my 95 chevrolet? its like 4300lbs with driver and full tank of gas.
I'd like to build an engine like this for my 95 Chevy Z71. It would be a great upgrade to the factory TBI 350 but with a Holley Sniper EFI
I took a gm zz383 added callies 6 inch h-beam rods JE forged 2 valve flat top pistons had a little head work done to the factory alumunum dast burns added Edelbrock Pro Flo XT multiport EFI and turned 460 hp. & 470 ft. torque and put it in a 2 door Tahoe 4 X 4 and it is a blast to drive. The Edelbrock EFI works Great with a potent 383.
Would work well use a much smaller head due to the weight of the truck youll be glad you did. afr makes a killer 190 vortech
400/406 with 2 valve relief 5.7 rod pistons, xe288 (pce 249.1021) cam, #906 1.94 1.6 pocket ported heads, and a chinese airgap with 750/800 dp carb, please. 😁
I’m building a 383 stroker with 200cc pro top line heads. I’m using +12 cc dished pistons which I know aren’t ideal for quench. The combustion chambers are only 60cc. The shortblock is ready and I’m down to deciding on headgaskets. I’m not sure if I should go with a .033 thick gasket for .048 quench 10.56:1 static 8.34:1 dynamic or with a .027 with .042 quench 10.71:1 static 8.46:1 dynamic? The pistons do have about 5/8 “ of flat surface around the outside but I’m not sure how much quench even matters on this build. Trying to run on 93 octane. I could retard the cam some to lower the dynamic compression some. Maybe I’m putting too much thought into this.
Do you still sell your vortec spring kits for high lift cams if so how much are they the cam I will be running has a .554 lift on intake and exhaust
It’s said that Xtreme Energy cams have valve train noise, did you get any of that with this build?
Did I miss an episode? What heads are on this engine?
I've been looking forward to this update! I'm putting together a very similar engine for a 1980 GMC Caballero, so this is pretty encouraging. I went with a Lunati Street Master retrofit hydraulic roller cam though. 280/288 advertised, 226/224 @ .050, 530/530 lift (565 with my 1.6 rockers arms) and 112 deg lobe separation. I think I'll need to upgrade from flat tappet to roller springs though. What valve springs did you use for this build? Any recommendations?
What cam were you running with the FT springs ? ... 0.530 lift is not in the extreme for a roller so even a 125 lb.in seat pressure spring should be able to handle 6k ish rpm. what is ure current seat pressure and spring rate ? and to what rpm do u need stability ?
The flat tappet springs were 1.25 inch singles with a damper. They were rated at 115lbs closed, which might have worked, but seemed a little on the light side with the heavy link bar retrofit lifters. I found a deal on some trick flow by PAC springs that are still pretty light weight and have a seat pressure of 150lbs. They should be more than enough to keep the valves under control on a street car with a 6200 rpm red line
So you will hav 350 lbs. or 364 lbs. open pressure assuming a 379 in.lb. spring rate depending what rocker you use , 150 on the seat should be more than enough for what you're doing.
I found Lunati's website to be pretty useless , what cam manufacturer doesn't recommend what spring to use with their cams ?
Your cam is made of high-grade cast iron with possibly a heat treatment (but who knows w/Lunati ?) so how much seat pressure you can run is anybody's guess and then going to 1.6:1 rockers is even more load at the cam.
Lunati does not increase valve lift as they step up in duration with the streetmaster line so what is that telling us ? so do all the cam kits in that line come with the same springs ? is there a spring rate limit for the streetmaster line ?
Just in general what is the limit of spring pressure u can run with a standard cast iron roller cam ?
@@mikegillam1000 130 is plenty
Looking to build a 383. This is what I have. 1 pice rear main block (880) 4 bolt main. Scat 383 crank, 5.7 rods ,Speed Pro H860CP30 383 Flat Top Pistons . A set of heads World S/R I 052. Performer rpm airgap intake. All I need is a hydraulic roller cam and lifters for this block. Everything I have listed I have lying around in my shop, so all I am going to pay for is machine work for the block. My goal here is to build a 383 that is all torque for a wood hauling truck plus tow hall like a trailer for camping. I guess what I’m asking is for a cam recommendation and if these heads will work with this combination. Thanks again for your time great informational video.
You need a camshaft that is high lift, low duration and wide lobe separation angle for moving that kind of weight. Choosing your cam lift will require you to research the head flow chart so you know the flow numbers for your exact head. Once you find the chart, look at the intakes highest lift and see where that is at what valve lift. Then you pick your cam lift .005"-.010" less than peak flow lift because the exhaust always flows less than the intake and you don't want to get into the excessive valve spring resistance pressure by having more valve lift than what the head can possibly flow. Also if the exhaust port flows less than 75% of the intake port then that is when you should use a split duration cam where the exhaust duration spec is a bit more than the intake. Use 114-112° of lobe separation angle for max cylinder pressure and low rpm torque.
Hey Pat love the vids and that their based in Canada. I have a question I have a 400 small block .030 over with JE pistons with a 22cc dish on 5.7 rods edelbrock estreet 185 heads with 64cc chambers I currently have a XE 274 flat tappet cam with 1.5 roller lifters this is run in a 1980 camaro th350 with 2500 rpm stall and 3:73 gears 27 inch high rear tire I am looking for more low rpm torque this car is 95% street driven with the possibility of going to a few road course track days any suggestions possible cam upgrades ? thanks for suggestions and keep the videos coming
Are you finding it doesnt have much low end torque right now? To be honest your current setup screams low end torque. Would you consider going to a Hydraulic roller? Dual plane intake being used?
@@cuttersperformance Currently has a Performer RPM intake non air gap and a 750 vacuum secondary holley carb . Yes I am finding it does not have enough low end torque! I am going to pull the motor and re ring it I beleive it has the same ring seal problem as your dingle ball 350 as it is burning oil and hasnt many miles since it rebuild. I was considering a hydraulic roller was looking at the Comp XR 270 cam.
Did you degree the cam sure it was on 106 lcl
I've built all makes of engines for years and years and years. Having said that, I've (as well as 99.9% of everyone else) always ran headers on my "hot rod" engines. This go around, I'll be building and running a very decent buildup SB Chevy 350 but with ported and cnc'ed Brzezinski racing Corvette cast iron manifolds. Have you ever built a "stout" SBC and used a high flowing cast iron manifolds.. I'm sure that the lower rpm scavenging will suffer as compared to headers, but, I'm thinking that these bad boys will flow very close to a header on the top end. Brzezinski claims only a 10 HP loss as compared headers. Thoughts...
Ive actually been kinda dealing with the same thoughts lately but more towards a turbo setup with manifolds vs headers.
I have built engines that ran with manifolds but have really done any solid testing to say for certain power loss/gain vs headers. My thoughts would be, would a good flowing cylinder head (ported ex port) with a good flowing exhaust manifold be much different than a header on a normal flowing cylinder head? Does is all come down to the savaging? Because a header pipe even 1 5/8 can flow alot of air in comparison to most exhaust ports.
Also would adding a X pipe or H pipe to a exhaust system with exhaust manifolds help with the loss of scavenging? Interesting stuff and im sure its very engine/combo specific. Would sure be fun to test out on a dyno
The numbers I’ve seen, shorty headers vs stock manifolds usually are within 5hp of each other. Now those compared to a set of nice big tube long length headers…I’ve seen a 25hp gain on a street engine compared to stock manifolds and shorty headers. At least 10-20hp with long tubes. And hardly anything added or lost compared to shorties and stock manifolds.
Some people swear by the old rams horns with the larger collector.
Personally... cast oem manifolds have always worked gloriously for me. I *personally* believe for the street, headers aren't worth the issues.
But cubes and big torque keeps me happy on the street.
Ive heavily ported those and even though the bench showed more in the car it ran exctly the same. Bolt bosses are restrictive wouldnt spend much on them
Maybe an aggressive extrude hone then call it good
This looks like an excellent combo for my 63 c50, what kind of torque do you think it makes at 1800 or 2000?
Probably 400 to 450 at 2k
415-420. If you want more torque moved down i don't know what to do because you may get less everywhere. Maybe try the edelbrock rpm non air gap or the AFR composite dual plane. Or after the long tube headers, use an empty can or tube or empty muffler as a break after a cross over tube with pipe extending into the can for vacuum, then a smooth transition into pipe into your big block 50 series mufflers at the end or whatever. Would it work? i am do not know. Only testing could say. Maybe a 2.05" valve would work instead of the 2.02". Usually bumps up the low lift if port energy is the same or improved.
I love the old C50s and C60s. I've got a 57 Dodge C.O.E.
I've been thinking of adding an old draw thru turbo to my square body tow hauler. It's a 350/400/4.56:1.
I need uphill grunt and MPG.
This engine looks enticing.
great results but why did the power fall off at that rpm? I would think with those heads it would have carried out farther, the cam is large enough. Did the valvetrain become unstable or is the intake manifold holding it back?
The heads certainly have more potential but that rpm is about right for this cam. If this were a 355 id expect abit closer to 6000 rpm before the drop.
Its a great torquey combo with good vacuum and street manners but I think a xr288 would be a slightly better choice for overall power with a higher rpm range.
Looks airflow limited, a single plane intake and higher ratio on the intake rocker would probably allow it to carry to 62-6400 rpm. Question is why? That's a nice combo, set the rev limiter and enjoy it, relatively mild lobes should last longer and not be as expensive to own and operate. It's a good all around street engine. A single plane intake would cost torque at lower RPM, exactly what you do not want for a heavy street car.
@@b.c4066 I've seen combos with less airflow and smaller cams carry peak power higher.... it made great power just weird how it fell off so abruptly. Valvetrain stability issues?
@@roberthollinshead2325 Bet it started to lose valve control. Those fast ramp cams need more spring upstairs. Think its over rated plus you lose longevity, valve job and tips wear quicker etc
Hey I have a question, I have a set of vortec heads that some work has been done to them 2.02 /1.060 should the int valves be different height then the exh valves on the spring you can see that the keepers are set lower on the int valves is this normal on the vortecs if there was work done the cam is 280H 230/230
Hello! Could you send me pictures
pcperformance1@outlook.com
Having just built a 383, I notice very little discussion about connecting rod to camshaft interference. What rods did you use to avoid this or did you have a small base circle camshaft? Thanks!
Eagle stroker rods (was an eagle stroker kit) there was lots of clearance to the cam with these rods and a regular base circle cam
@@cuttersperformance Thank You! I learned the hard way that stock PM rods don't clear so I went with Scat rods, which still needed a little bit of clearancing on half of the rods.
Not sure if you have a video on it. And, I know it’s simple to do. But how about a distributor install and how do you set timing on an HEI Vacuum advance.
Thats actually a video that ive been wanting to do but I know it will cause alot of grumbles from some people lol. The whole vac advance, ported vs full vaccum debate and how to drop in a distributor seem to be as consaversal as camshaft selection 😄 but I will do a video on how I do it
@@cuttersperformance awesome man! Appreciate it! I know how to do so. But, always like hearing how other people set up their timing.
I would like to see someone test the thumpr cams from Comp Cams. They get a bad rap on the internet but I've used them and they pull really hard. Maybe you would try them out.
What thumpr cam specifically are you referring to? I will check it out
@@cuttersperformance They come in three sizes thumpr, mutha thumpr, big mutha thumpr. I know, it sounds corny. I was running a thumpr hydraulic roller in my sbc and was really impressed how hard it pulled. When I decided to freshen up the engine I picked the big mutha thumpr because my cr was 10.5-1 and I ported a set of old school bowtie heads. The specs are 243 257 @50, 533 in 519 ex and 107 lsa. Also I will be using solid rollers and experimenting with lash and rocker ratios. I'm curious what a professional engine builder would think. It's a fairly aggressive cam and would need to build an engine around that. All the best.
I need to build a torque monster for my 64 Chevy 5500 tilt cab truck. I have a late model 350 block and 3.75 crank. Also have a set of fast burn heads and some vortec heads. What would you do? And have you seen anyone test Rhoades hydraulic roller lifters?
How much power are you looking for?
Ive actually never used a set of Rhoades lifters. The theory makes sense but Id love to dyno test a set compared to regular hydraulic lifters
@@cuttersperformance it's going to be a truck for hauling/towing. So low end torque is the most important.
I would like to see you build a TBI 305 roller cam, swirl port heads, with a 400-crank internal balanced 334 stroker.
Stroker 305 engines aren't worth building. A 305 with the Vortec heads or the 305 HO Camaro heads and cam can be a lot of fun.
@@ahoneyman My plan is to boost low end torque with good or better fuel economy and keep the original engine and appearance to comply with California emissions my theory is by lightening the 400 crank and internal balanced rotating mas it should do well in my 91 RS Camaro 5 speed not trying to make 400+ hp the goal is to get close to 300 HP and 350 FT/LB with a ported stock TBI
@@paulburkey2 That's just a lot of balancing and machine work for swirl port heads that are basically done by 4500 RPM. If you just want torque why not a TBI 350 short block? Swirl port TBI 350 heads are like $300 a pair rebuilt. Gas mileage between the 305 and 350 in a Camaro is less than 2 mpg.
@@ahoneyman it's all about California emissions besides most driving is done from 2000 to 4000 RPMs that's the sweet spot for peak torque if I were to buy a 350 engine I would just go with a vortec crate motor and drop a GM performance TBI intake but then I would have to get smog headers to work with those heads would rather keep the stock cast iron so everything appears to be stock again for California emissions
My feeling is that the 305 swirl Port heads actually make good low end torque and can be massaged a bit Port matched cleaned up along with a GM performance TBI intake Port matched for the 650 ported TBI intake
Great video, just wondering why the cam lift wasn't closer to the peak flow of the heads ?
I was using a cam that I keep getting asked about.
Like I said in the video, the heads have more potential and could make more power with a larger cam but this cam would work great for most guys hotrod cruisers with great drivability and reliability.
@@cuttersperformance I just did a very similar build .030 bore, promax max200 heads, howards 186115 cam, pro products crosswind intake, holley 670 vac sec, 15/8" long tube, you have any idea what power this thing should make ? She sure rips ! And ate my poor little t350 lol
@@cuttersperformance oh and it's 10.5:1
@@chriscarter3654 that would probably a 500hp/500 tq combo
@@cuttersperformance thank you for your time and knowledge, much appreciated. You have great content and you seem like a solid guy.
Hey where are you located ? I have a 360 sbc I'm trying to get rebuilt 68-79...block...Mexico cast 350..
Had a xe284 comp flat tappet moving up to 284-288..hr... Brodie cast aluminum 220 or afr 220cc .....will I get bigger numbers with forged pistons and afr heads?
A really good cylinder head will always give you power, especially when matched with the appropriate cam. But if you already have a decent head you might not see a huge benifit going to a AFR. Forged pistons vs a Hypereutectic piston doesnt change power when the same design piston is used, but a forged piston provides more strength.
Im located in Southern Ontario Canada 🇨🇦
How much block/rod clearance was needed for this rotating assembly? Don’t need a small base circle cam right?
Standard block clearaning for the rod bolts but the eagle stroker rods had tons of room to the camshaft (std base circle). I shoot for atleast .060"
@@cuttersperformance thanks!
The casting on that Procomp airgap looks rough. I couldn't quit staring at it during the video. I would have had to smooth that out with a dremel. Defeats the purpose of buying one polished though.
They are certainly rougher than older edelbrocks, but even some of the newer edelbrock ones aren't looking so hot
I’m guessing you had the block decked and it’s .000 in in the hole to get that compression
Id have to check my notes but i believe .005 in the hole
What other heads would you suggest as these are hard to find thanks
Dart iron eagle 200cc, or a set of afr enforcers would work great
Just a guess. I have spoken to some pro engine builders. Those 220 heads would be way to big with a 350. They may actually be to big even for a 383 since your not looking for crazy rpm.
Have you tried a set of 200cc intake port heads? I wonder if the better velocity of the smaller 200 cc intake ports like on a dart 200 cc head would make more power and torque.
But you do have good compression at 10.25:1.
But can’t complain with those hp and tq numbers.
Im going to agree with you, as typically I would have picked around a 195cc when I build a engine like this (under 500hp)
But I also think this engine shows that a slightly too big of head isnt going to have low torque. These are heads that already had and wanted to use them, and maybe other guys out there have heads like this sitting around thinking that cant use them becuase they are "too big" for their combo and they will have low torque.
Sometimes the not soo perfect combo turns out pretty good haha, especially when you can find a deal on a set of heads these days.
Cheers and thanks for checking out my video!
@@cuttersperformance I looked for these heads, sad that pro top line or RHS is not making these heads. I saw some Internet forums that talked about how RHS bought the old molds for the aluminum heads from pro top line but somehow the cast iron molds got lost. That’s a shame. I remember reading about these heads cast in New Zealand and finished here when they came out. Really a shame rhs build some serious engines back in the day for reasonable costs.
I’m gonna look at more builds of yours cause all I have is mild 350’s and they like rpms.
@@cuttersperformance what it shows is inline with what gm did with the ls1, a head that by all accounts appears to big for the rpm range of the engine, matched with a short duration high lift cam will make good usable power with a nice range.
How much power would expect using those heads, cam and intake on a 350?
If you kept everything the same, other than it being a 350 or 355. I expect to see a lost in peak torque of probably 20 to 30 ftlbs but similar hp at slightly higher rpm (probably aroubd 5800 to 6000
Thank you
I've read and heard alot that if any engine produces more peak torque than peak hp it needs more cam, so I'm assuming they mean more lift and possibly more duration?
Yeah these heads could upposrt a larger cam for sure, but it was a power brake friendly combo, so i went on the mild side to keep the vac aboce 12 inches at idle
How the hell you get 14" of vacuum? I have near identical setup (Dart 215s only difference). 11"-12" is where I'm at.
Lots of factors can change your idle vaccum a few inches either way:
Idle rpm, ignition advance, ring seal, cam degree angle, compression, pcv hooked up, vacuum leaks, temperature and even altitude.
13 to 15 inches is what I expected to get with this cam and thats basically where it was at in the dyno when it was tested
I would expect to see 10 to 12 inches with this cam on a 10:1 355
Would this cam work with 10.5 to 1 in a 383 thanks
Honestly its probably better in the 10 to 10.5:1 range, less fuel octane sensitivity
I am curious though, what is the mcsa at the valve, and coefficient of discharge? Not trying to be a dick, always trying to learn. Seems like when you get down to it those two specs dictate potential a lot. And when you can find the info, two engines with the same mcsa etc tend to be very similar power output. Interesting stuff
Bill first off you not being a dick by asking questions, questions are how we learn and in the automotive industry...you never stop learning!
Everyone seems to calculate C/D differently (average vs max vs max cam lift vs lift over .300) so I will give you the info and you can calculate it the way you may prefer.
The flow numbers are in the video and the throat diameters were right around 1.798 with a 2.02 valve with a 11/32 stem.
That being said, a guy that tells you that the C/D will certainly determine the output potential of a engine is kinda a myth.
Especially with a street/strip engine these calculation get thrown around with guys calculating things differently, different flow benches ect and next thing you know guys are super confused and overwhelmed.
Just like this engine was a good example on how a big runner (220cc) will not absolutely kill torque on a 383 as alot of guys will say or think. Intake, cam, compression ratio play much bigger factors in that
Thanks for checking out my videos and let me know if you have any more questions
@@cuttersperformance that seems kind of small for a 220 runner, plenty of room to port and grow as the combo changes.
@@b.c4066 your exactly right, these heads are basically untouched. Pretty decent "as cast" head
@@cuttersperformance try a 1.65 or 1.7 rocker arm on the intakes and see what it does. High lift low seat duration seems to be the trend with most hot street hydraulic roller cams now days. Curious is the valve train noise worse than OEM, or impossible to tell with the exhaust you tested with?
What engine rpm was the vacuum checked at . Idle 750/800rpm or 1000rpm ???
800 rpm
Sorry, I hadn't finished, but EQ heads are rare. Can you recommend something similar in cost as well?
The best budget head would probably be the AFR enforcers
@@cuttersperformance
This exact combo... could it run on TPI?
what's the part number on the timing cover
I might have accidentally said cloyes in the video. Its a cloyes timing set with a Milidon 65555 timing cover
New to the channel. How about the impersonator build. ?
Hey sorry what engine are you referring to?
@@cuttersperformance hi piss cutter just want to ask you a few questions, have you ever flowed a GM fastburn sbc aluminum head and if so what kind of numbers did it put out,also what would be the ultimate camshaft to get the best performance out of these heads on a 383 or 406 I have both blocks,I know this has nothing to do with this videobut thanks in advance I really enjoy your videos
What was cranking compression on this beast
That info is in the video, but just in case you missed it, it was 185 psi
207 block did you say 2 piece seal and 1988 to 1985? I think something is off there.
80 to 85 "207" block 2 pc rms
388 how much is it bored over?
. 060 over
So he just stands in front of an engine and rambles on? That's the gig?
Pretty much 😄
I'd would love to see good combinations with parts that we can find sir,can't find those type heads!!!🤦♂️
You're missing the point, just about any 64cc chamber out of the box 195-210 cc 23° head with around a 1.9-2.1 cross section would deliver the same results. Afr 195 enforcer, dart shp, promaxx 210, yada yada
Thats exactly the point, Thanks Bill
Have you or anyone else ported an air gap?
Yeah ive ported several, mostly for port alignment and cleanup. But you can actually get quite a flow increase on the flow bench
@@cuttersperformance Thanks
In a T bucket... kind of Overkill, 283 would have been good enough LoL
For sure! Haha
I had my 383 dyno the other day and only made 423 ft lbs and 382 hp 🥺
Sorry your not happy with your results Steve
Whats the combo?
@@cuttersperformance 11.1 compression promaxx 200 cc heads xr294hr cam and edlebrock super victor intake
382hp/423ftlbs on a engine or wheel dyno?
@@cuttersperformance engine, something's way off it should make 450 hp. I ll figure it eventually. I had my torque and hp numbers backwards 423 hp
Yeah for sure 450 easily! Let me know if you figure it out. You got my curiosity haha cam degree? Weak valve springs? Ignition timing issue?
What would be your guess on power with same short block with 210 afr eliminator heads, same pro comp intake, edelbrock 2205 cam 234/238 @.050 539 lift on intake 548 lift on exhaust on a 114 Lsa