EDIT: reporting back as promised (5 months): this has cut my oil consumption by about 90%. There are almost no drips under the car now and the drive has stayed clean. Job jobbed, I'd say. This is definitely the most common oil leak issue on these (and other) engines. I thought mine probably had several oil leaks, but lo and behold replacing this sender has cured almost all my leakage. In almost a fortnight now since doing this, my oil level doesn't seem to have dropped at all on the dipstick. I'll report back again after more miles.
@@CycloneCyd i have a really bad oil leak on my 2004 saab 93 aero convertible. the car is covered with oil on the bottom and leaving puddles everywhere i go. im going to do the valve cover gasket and the oil pressure sensor and hope for the best
Cyd, I love the content. Somehow my '07 9-3 continues to have the same hiccups as yours! BTW, oil sensor was $12 USD from where I bought mine, much better than a few hundred at the shop.
You're quite right there. This is the sort of simple fix shops can easily overcharge for. That's normal, particular models suffer from a common set of problems across the range.
Thanks Garry. I'm starting to feel more comfortable on camera now I've done a hundred vids, lol! I hope it shows through as a much more 'natural' feel to the narrative.
@@CycloneCyd your videos are excellent, and as the proud owner of a 2005 Saab 93 convertible they are extremely useful for me! With the help of your videos I've fixed a few issues with my car! Keep up the good work (the narrative is excellent by the way)!
I'll be changing the one in my Daily Driver too.... common problem, as you stated. Mine is making a heck of a mess. Yours is so much easier to get to though! Lol 😅😅
I wish I'd realised it was this easy years ago! I've probably spent 10x the price of the senser in oil 😂😂😂 and, yeah, it don't 'alf make a mess. We've had to treat our drive with tarmac sealer (it does look good now, though).
@@CubasAutomotive in my own defence, the engine is a mess with oil so I couldn't see the leak. I'm sure it's leaking elsewhere so more videos to come on that subject.
Love your videos... Really methodical approach and very clear instruction... You're a natural teacher. Suggestion: you don't need mindless music as filler - your content stands up on its own.... Cheers
Thanks. I started this channel because of the crap tutorials I kept finding and thought "I can do better than that". Now the channel is gaining some traction, I may remake some of the early ones, but yeah, I tried to go for quality over quantity. I've had a mixed response music-wise, but more people seem to like it than not. I've got a nephew who's offered to do some music for me. At the very least I need a theme tune for the bumper and outro, so I might do that first and see how we go.
Hey Cyd, another great video!! Wondered if your saw my comment on another video about potentially doing a how to on how to replace the door lock actuator on the front left door on the Saab? I've seen a number of rear door replacements on here, but I can't seem to find a front door video and your videos are so well done!! Cheers!
Sorry Adam, I didn't. YT has only just introduced a search system where the owner can search for comments not responded to. Previously it was really easy to miss comments. Are you in a hurry for this info? I've got several jobs to do on my driver's door, but we've hit rainy season here now so I have to pick my time. Weather permitting, Xmas break might be a good time.
No worries Cyd. It's broken at the moment and I thought I might be able to fix it myself if I saw how it was done, but it's no rush. It's not impacting me to a crazy degree and I can wait for whenever you're able to do it! Thanks so much for all of your videos and your willingness to respond to people and take requests! Cheers!
I followed your directions.. the only thing i would add is you have to get the 24 inch snug on bolt. Once you hit it a couple times left and comes right off.
Yes, one of my pipes had a split. No, I don't have a diagram, nor done a video. Not sure it's worthy of a video TBH. Easiest way to do it is simply replace one pipe at a time making sure to get the connections in the right place. Then follow the same routing or reroute. Use it from a roll and cut it to length each time. You'll need 6mm ID pipe for most of it (I used this bit.ly/Silicon_vac_hose ) except for the short piece to the fuel pressure regulator which is 4mm ID.
hi Cyd, really good stuff, thank you for your videos. I notice at ~ 1:44 when you remove the air delivery pipe that there appears to some sort of residue / oil showing up on the inside of the inlet? Is that from the brake cleaner?
I don't think PTFE tape will hold in this application. The metal washer is not reusable I think. If you experience any leaks in the future, refit the sensor without PTFE and with a new metal ring
Yes, it helped knock about 1C off the air IAT. It's exhaust wrap. I've since changed to a 82C stat (was 90C), so probably not making a big difference anymore.
Hi Cyd, I am hoping you could help me identify an oil leak on a Z20NET Vectra. Suspected crankshaft rear main seal. It appears to be a fair amount of oil leaking between the engine and gearbox. Large patch on the road after running the engine but no noticeable drop on the dipstick at the moment. All the external suspects are dry (oil pressure sensor, dipstick tube, oil cooler, turbo oil lines at the back) and the oil is coming out from halfway up the gearbox making a hell of a mess of everything underneath. The visible starter motor gears have a misting of oil, and I am certain it is engine rather than gearbox oil. Would you agree that it is likely to be a crankshaft rear main seal? I do not want to take it all off to change that, and still have the issue! Thank you for all the fantastic content.
I had a rear crank seal leak on my B207R when I bought it, but I had it fixed under warranty (and a new LUK clutch 👍). I totally agree you don't want to go to the enormous effort of removing the gearbox if that's not where the leak is. There are three (3) candidates for the oil (you don't say if it's front of the engine, but I'm assuming it is): engine, power steering and gearbox. The first thing you need to do is be ABSOLUTELY certain which oil it is. To do this buy yourself an oil leak detection kit: amzn.to/3beYbaZ (if you're not UK based, come back and I'll link you to a similar kit with international delivery options) Clean the engine down as best you can (a toilet brush is good because of the long handle) with any proprietary oil remover in a hand spray. Add the fluorescent dye to whichever oil is the prime suspect and use the UV torch to monitor the oil leak very carefully. If you see dye, you now know which oil it is, if you don't you need to try one of the other two with more dye amzn.to/2xOrYK2. Yes, I know, it's the dye that is the expensive bit, but still better than wasting a lot of time, effort or money on a gearbox removal. Hopefully, when you see dye you will see it first at the leak point or be able to infer where the leak is. Let us know how you get on with this first step
@@CycloneCyd Thank you so much, I already have that kit on the way. Vectra's have a different power steering system with the reservoir behind the front bumper and in front of the offside wheelarch, so it is definitely engine or gearbox. I will update in due course. x
@@CycloneCyd I believe it is an electro-hydraulic system yes, with no mechanical pump. There is not a huge amount of feedback but it isn't completely dead either like you can get with purely electric systems.
Is this the most common oil leak on these cars? My garage, when I was getting the car serviced, said I had a slight oil leak somewhere but they didn't say where. I'm going to check mine today. Mine's a 2005 Aero.
When this leaks it flows down onto the front engine mount and drips from there. It probably is the most common leak point, certainly at the front of the engine. If the leak seems to be low down though, investigate the oil level sensor. At the rear, the cam cover just above the turbo and vacuum pump are common too. Even the oil connections to the turbo are known for it. Bottom line is these engines leak like a broken sieve. More videos on the subject to come methinks.
Jeez, I mustn't have been able to see the wood for the trees!! I watch each video through a couple of times before rendering them from my editer, trying to see if I've missed anything. Ah, well, I'll include it in the description. I got mine here: bit.ly/93_pressure_sender and I believe the part number is 12635992. Thanks for watching, do let us know how you get on.
Need to check mine as it is leaking really bad...valve cover gasket changed anyway....comes out somewhere between gearbox and engine and really bad on the back...
EDIT: reporting back as promised (5 months): this has cut my oil consumption by about 90%. There are almost no drips under the car now and the drive has stayed clean. Job jobbed, I'd say.
This is definitely the most common oil leak issue on these (and other) engines. I thought mine probably had several oil leaks, but lo and behold replacing this sender has cured almost all my leakage. In almost a fortnight now since doing this, my oil level doesn't seem to have dropped at all on the dipstick. I'll report back again after more miles.
Appreciate the info. Any update so far a year later?
@@akdomun no leaking from sensor.
@@CycloneCyd i have a really bad oil leak on my 2004 saab 93 aero convertible. the car is covered with oil on the bottom and leaving puddles everywhere i go. im going to do the valve cover gasket and the oil pressure sensor and hope for the best
Fantastic video as always, Cyd, so helpful! A huge thank you from another 9-3 owner who is grateful for your help keeping the old girl on the road.
Cyd, I love the content. Somehow my '07 9-3 continues to have the same hiccups as yours! BTW, oil sensor was $12 USD from where I bought mine, much better than a few hundred at the shop.
You're quite right there. This is the sort of simple fix shops can easily overcharge for. That's normal, particular models suffer from a common set of problems across the range.
hey where ya get it?
Would it be possible to access the oil pressure sensor from underneath the car to avoid removing pipes under the hood?
I love your technical terms Cyd, jiggery pockery! That famous mechanic's saying! lol Brilliant vids!
Thanks Garry. I'm starting to feel more comfortable on camera now I've done a hundred vids, lol! I hope it shows through as a much more 'natural' feel to the narrative.
@@CycloneCyd your videos are excellent, and as the proud owner of a 2005 Saab 93 convertible they are extremely useful for me! With the help of your videos I've fixed a few issues with my car! Keep up the good work (the narrative is excellent by the way)!
I'll be changing the one in my Daily Driver too.... common problem, as you stated. Mine is making a heck of a mess. Yours is so much easier to get to though! Lol 😅😅
I wish I'd realised it was this easy years ago! I've probably spent 10x the price of the senser in oil 😂😂😂 and, yeah, it don't 'alf make a mess. We've had to treat our drive with tarmac sealer (it does look good now, though).
@@CycloneCyd 😂😂 oh no! Better to learn late than never! Hahaha..
@@CubasAutomotive in my own defence, the engine is a mess with oil so I couldn't see the leak. I'm sure it's leaking elsewhere so more videos to come on that subject.
Love your videos... Really methodical approach and very clear instruction... You're a natural teacher. Suggestion: you don't need mindless music as filler - your content stands up on its own.... Cheers
Thanks. I started this channel because of the crap tutorials I kept finding and thought "I can do better than that". Now the channel is gaining some traction, I may remake some of the early ones, but yeah, I tried to go for quality over quantity. I've had a mixed response music-wise, but more people seem to like it than not. I've got a nephew who's offered to do some music for me. At the very least I need a theme tune for the bumper and outro, so I might do that first and see how we go.
DOG CAN SEE THE RABBIT! That's wonderful. From the USA we don't hear these nomenclatures. Love it.
It's an olde worlde hare coursing term. Hare coursing is illegal now, of course
Very useful as ever ! Thanks 🙏
Thank you
Lovely video
this is so helpful thank you
Thanks. Welcome aboard
As ever superb 👌
Many thanks GL. 👍
Hey Cyd, another great video!! Wondered if your saw my comment on another video about potentially doing a how to on how to replace the door lock actuator on the front left door on the Saab? I've seen a number of rear door replacements on here, but I can't seem to find a front door video and your videos are so well done!! Cheers!
Sorry Adam, I didn't. YT has only just introduced a search system where the owner can search for comments not responded to. Previously it was really easy to miss comments.
Are you in a hurry for this info? I've got several jobs to do on my driver's door, but we've hit rainy season here now so I have to pick my time. Weather permitting, Xmas break might be a good time.
No worries Cyd. It's broken at the moment and I thought I might be able to fix it myself if I saw how it was done, but it's no rush. It's not impacting me to a crazy degree and I can wait for whenever you're able to do it! Thanks so much for all of your videos and your willingness to respond to people and take requests! Cheers!
Legend!!!!!
No it's Saab 9-3, the Legend was a Honda 🤣🤣🤣🤣
But Seriously, thanks for watching and interacting 👍👍
I followed your directions.. the only thing i would add is you have to get the 24 inch snug on bolt. Once you hit it a couple times left and comes right off.
Thanks for sharing
What's the name of the music in tge background? Also Great tutorial on the common probkems with the Saab 9-3.
Don't know anymore. It would have been from the CZcams music library, but I've stopped using music since (by popular demand!)
Thanks for this. I'll be doing this soon. I noticed you switched out the vacuum lines for silicone. Do you have a diagram or video for doing this?
Yes, one of my pipes had a split. No, I don't have a diagram, nor done a video. Not sure it's worthy of a video TBH. Easiest way to do it is simply replace one pipe at a time making sure to get the connections in the right place. Then follow the same routing or reroute. Use it from a roll and cut it to length each time. You'll need 6mm ID pipe for most of it (I used this bit.ly/Silicon_vac_hose ) except for the short piece to the fuel pressure regulator which is 4mm ID.
Im watching your video as a reference.. Thats how my look like all greasy
Excellent. Welcome aboard 🤘🤘
hi Cyd, really good stuff, thank you for your videos. I notice at ~ 1:44 when you remove the air delivery pipe that there appears to some sort of residue / oil showing up on the inside of the inlet? Is that from the brake cleaner?
I don't think PTFE tape will hold in this application. The metal washer is not reusable I think. If you experience any leaks in the future, refit the sensor without PTFE and with a new metal ring
Great video but it didnt specify the year or engine. It doesnt seem to be the same for the 2.0T pre 2004
Yo Cyd, your air delivery pipe is wrapped the way a sniper would wrap their rifle. What is it and does it keep the air cooler? Very cool looking 😎
Yes, it helped knock about 1C off the air IAT. It's exhaust wrap. I've since changed to a 82C stat (was 90C), so probably not making a big difference anymore.
Hi Cyd, I am hoping you could help me identify an oil leak on a Z20NET Vectra. Suspected crankshaft rear main seal.
It appears to be a fair amount of oil leaking between the engine and gearbox. Large patch on the road after running the engine but no noticeable drop on the dipstick at the moment. All the external suspects are dry (oil pressure sensor, dipstick tube, oil cooler, turbo oil lines at the back) and the oil is coming out from halfway up the gearbox making a hell of a mess of everything underneath. The visible starter motor gears have a misting of oil, and I am certain it is engine rather than gearbox oil.
Would you agree that it is likely to be a crankshaft rear main seal? I do not want to take it all off to change that, and still have the issue!
Thank you for all the fantastic content.
I had a rear crank seal leak on my B207R when I bought it, but I had it fixed under warranty (and a new LUK clutch 👍). I totally agree you don't want to go to the enormous effort of removing the gearbox if that's not where the leak is.
There are three (3) candidates for the oil (you don't say if it's front of the engine, but I'm assuming it is): engine, power steering and gearbox. The first thing you need to do is be ABSOLUTELY certain which oil it is.
To do this buy yourself an oil leak detection kit: amzn.to/3beYbaZ
(if you're not UK based, come back and I'll link you to a similar kit with international delivery options)
Clean the engine down as best you can (a toilet brush is good because of the long handle) with any proprietary oil remover in a hand spray.
Add the fluorescent dye to whichever oil is the prime suspect and use the UV torch to monitor the oil leak very carefully. If you see dye, you now know which oil it is, if you don't you need to try one of the other two with more dye amzn.to/2xOrYK2. Yes, I know, it's the dye that is the expensive bit, but still better than wasting a lot of time, effort or money on a gearbox removal.
Hopefully, when you see dye you will see it first at the leak point or be able to infer where the leak is.
Let us know how you get on with this first step
@@CycloneCyd Thank you so much, I already have that kit on the way. Vectra's have a different power steering system with the reservoir behind the front bumper and in front of the offside wheelarch, so it is definitely engine or gearbox. I will update in due course.
x
@@SerenaBluee ah ha! So all the Vectras got the electro-hydraulic steering system then? That was only fitted to the diesel 9-3s.
@@CycloneCyd I believe it is an electro-hydraulic system yes, with no mechanical pump. There is not a huge amount of feedback but it isn't completely dead either like you can get with purely electric systems.
How did you stop the oil leak ?
it's work on 9-3 2.2 TiD 2004 ? or is the oil pressure sensor somewhere else? D223L motor code
Is this the most common oil leak on these cars? My garage, when I was getting the car serviced, said I had a slight oil leak somewhere but they didn't say where. I'm going to check mine today. Mine's a 2005 Aero.
When this leaks it flows down onto the front engine mount and drips from there. It probably is the most common leak point, certainly at the front of the engine. If the leak seems to be low down though, investigate the oil level sensor. At the rear, the cam cover just above the turbo and vacuum pump are common too. Even the oil connections to the turbo are known for it. Bottom line is these engines leak like a broken sieve. More videos on the subject to come methinks.
Thanks Cyd. Love your videos and think they are excellent. More on Ssabs would always be good.
Thank you Cyd. Really helpful. What's the GM P/N for the sensor? Thanks.
Jeez, I mustn't have been able to see the wood for the trees!! I watch each video through a couple of times before rendering them from my editer, trying to see if I've missed anything. Ah, well, I'll include it in the description. I got mine here: bit.ly/93_pressure_sender and I believe the part number is 12635992.
Thanks for watching, do let us know how you get on.
I've put it in the description
Is this the same for my 05 2.0 Aero petrol please ?
Need to check mine as it is leaking really bad...valve cover gasket changed anyway....comes out somewhere between gearbox and engine and really bad on the back...
If it's a B207R, check the interface of the oil cooler to block. Also check the vacuum pump.
Thank you know i want to replace my my fuel filter in my Saab 9-3 2005 i can not found it can you help me please thank u...
czcams.com/video/_OgZGqrGNIg/video.html
Same location as one the v6?
Don't know, sorry. Join Saab Nuts! on Facebook and ask there