etrailer | Trailer Wiring Harness Installation - 2012 Ford Transit Connect
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- čas přidán 17. 01. 2018
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Full transcript: www.etrailer.com/tv-install-t...
Today on our 2012 Ford Transit Connect, we're gonna be taking a look at the Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness, part number 118585. It's gonna have a 4-pole flat trailer end connector. It does come with a dust cover and it is gonna stay on the outside of the vehicle at all times. So, it's gonna be ready whenever we need our wiring. To begin our installation, we're gonna need to open up our rear doors so that we can gain access to remove the taillights. To remove our taillights, we have two plastic rotating clips.
Now, these may be pretty tight so we just take a pair of slip joint pliers or anything to grab them. We're gonna loosen them up and then remove them by hand the rest of the way. And once those are removed, if we look inside of here, we're gonna have a 10 millimeter nut, so you're gonna need a 10 millimeter deep well socket and we're gonna remove those bolts. With those bolts removed, we can come to the outside of our taillight and we're just gonna grab out taillight and we're gonna pull straight back. So, we're gonna unplug our vehicle's wire and harness from our taillight. There's a tab right here.
If you push on this tab, it'll release the taillight, and we're gonna do the same thing on the other side. And we're gonna set these aside so they don't get damaged or lost. Next, I want to bring your attention to our wiring harness. You might have noticed that there's some connectors between the wires, but not on the yellow end. Well, for now, we're gonna disconnect our red and green ends and we're gonna set the connectors aside and we're disconnecting our 4-pole end with the green, yellow, white, and brown wires.
We're gonna set this aside for installation later. If we come over to our driver's side, we're gonna be taking the yellow, brown, and white connector, and we're gonna be plugging it in the vehicle's end. We want to make sure that locks in and we're gonna move back to the inside now. Right above our hinge, there's gonna be a plug. We're gonna need to remove this plug, so we can gain access to our wires. And I'm simply gonna use a screwdriver and a pair of pliers to grab it.
We're gonna do the same thing on the other side. On the outside, where our taillight was, this hole right here is where we just removed that plug and now we're gonna need to feed through our green and red wires, as well as the 4-pole wires. The green, yellow, white, and brown. And you're gonna want to do this one at a time. Get the connector through and a little bit of the wire so that you'll have enough room to get the following wires through. Once we have enough room, we're gonna pull it through and then we can come back and put our other wires and connectors through. Now, it is gonna be a snug fit but it will work. And we're gonna come to the other side and make sure everything's feeding properly and getting through. Now, there is one more wire that we're gonna need to put through and that's gonna be our black wire. I'm just gonna push that through to the other side. Now, the only remaining wire is gonna be our T connector and our ground. Now, this ground, I'm simply just gonna loosen this bolt right here and use it on the factory existing ground. I'm gonna use an eight millimeter socket to remove this bolt. With the bolt removed, put my ground wire on and then reinstall my bolt. I'm gonna be attaching the supplied black wire. The kit does come with butt connectors, but since this is more towards the outside of the vehicle where it's gonna come in contact with some moisture and maybe dirt, I'm gonna replacing the supplied butt connector with a heat shrink butt connector and you can pick those up on our website using part number DW05745-5. You'll need to strip the end off of this wire, then I can take our butt connector and attach it to this end, and then I can take the other end of the black wire, insert it in the other end and crimp it down. And you can use any heat source to apply the heat shrink on this butt connector, but we're gonna be using a heat gun. You just want to double-check and make sure you're not gonna char or burn the wire or the connector itself. Now that we have our black charge wire connected, I'm go ahead and reconnect our 4-pole end and we're just gonna match up the colored wires going to each other. Now, with all of our wires connected, we're gonna take all of our wires and we're gonna go down right here, just on the outside of this weather stripping. Right behind the bumper right here. So, we're just gonna start feeding all of our wires down and once we get all of them started, we're gonna need to go underneath the vehicle and pull th
Made it look easy I may tackle this project after all
This wiring installation can be done at home with a few simple tools and a bit of spare time.
www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Tekonsha/118585.html
Can you put a 7 wire connector too?
I’ve not found the towing capacity for this generation of van. Do you know what it is?
I need to know too!!
merlin jeronimo let me know if you figure it out. Lol. I would rather car companies said “Towing Capacity: 2lbs” rather than saying “N/A”. We know it can tow ‘something’ so they should just tell us a low number if they don’t want us trying. 🤣
@@garrettglass8854 so, the spec that gets put around now is about 1,750lbs
people estimate 1,500 unbreaked, and slightly more breaked
I would : install a transmission oil cooler, and maybe the Transgo Shift Kit Transmission Valve Upgrade
2k
does it matter which side (passenger/driver) side you install the converter box on?
It will need to be installed on the driver side because the green wire is longer to reach over to the passenger side but the yellow is not.
www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Tekonsha/118585.html
etrailer.com I made it work somehow on the passenger side, seems to be ok. I ran power to 12V outlet instead of battery
@@dagestanifive was wondering if I could tap into that socket instead of going to the battery. Everything working ok?
The owners manual says not to tow anything with this vehicle.
And yet they do it all over Europe. Given that in Europe they have a 5 speed manual transmission coupled to a small diesel engine. The motor in this US spec 2010-2013 is the motor and transmission from an automatic Ford Focus.
I don't know if the transmission will like towing but the chassis and brakes can handle 750 kilo trailer without brakes and 1300 kilos on a trailer fitted with brakes. So in US measure 1650 pounds unbraked and 2860 pounds with trailer brakes. I plan to round that down to 1500 and 2500. Tongue load is usually suggested to be around 10% of the load. I think tongue load is going to be the limiting factor on the chassis components. I have fitted airbags on my rear axle.
I do think towing is going to be hard on the transmission and that Ford really let us down with the motor and tranny combo they picked for us. I have come to understand that a Ford Focus manual 5 speed will bolt right up to the US spec engine and the mountings and holes for the clutch etc are already on the chassis.
My plan is a small motorcycle trailer unbraked and a small 5x10 with brakes for hauling sheet goods and construction materials to jobs. Not long haul.