How to set small block Chevy hydraulic lifters
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- čas přidán 10. 09. 2024
- This video gives the explanation of how to set the hydraulic lifters on a small block Chevy, this is shown with the intake manifold removed, and with my own gauge made from stainless steel heli-arc wire to verify the lifters are set at the correct gap that you want them set at which is between the .020”-.060” tolerance from the pushrod seat to the snap ring, which is what the lifters need to be set at. This method less my own verification is the standard method for setting the lifters and can be done with the intake manifold still in place. This information is pertinent for all small block Chevy engines, 283, 305, 307, 327, 350, 400, and all other small blocks Chevy's made by combining their parts.
I have looked at quite a few videos on adjusting the rocker arms and your video is about the best..
When you rolled the engine over for the last time to have it ready for distributor drop in, don't go all the way to "0". Stop at anywhere from 12 -16 before ,then drop dist. in and line up rotor pointer with cap tower one(that has been verified with a sharpie on the side of dist. housing) and lock down. Providing you have fuel ,compression and spark etc, it will fire up within two revolutions every time. Thanks for posting.
Thank you for the valuable comment!
I like using this method to adjust my valves on my sbc engines. Ever since I’ve seen this video, I’ve used it on several engines with good results and it works very well thank you much !
Thank you, much appreciated feedback! ❤️
I'm glad someone out there is using the prescribed shop manual technique. Others have you turning the engine over 90 degrees at a time working on only one pair of lifters at a time. W-A-Y too complicated and time consuming. My only comment is this: over the years I've had a couple valves on two different engines not close completely causing a rough idle so needed to back off the preload. After the second miscue, I started to set preload at 3/4 turn instead of 1 full turn. Haven't had a problem since. Hope this helps someone out there trying to adjust hydraulic lifters on a SBC.
I have always been concerned about the same issue, if not caught and left that way it can burn the valves, that is why I added the wire measuring step to guarantee what you are saying does not happen. Than you for watching and the comment.
Thanks for the explanation you've given. I wanted for years to know how this was accomplished. I've seen this procedure in a great deal of automotive manuals. I believe it is the best method for adjusting hydrolic lifters in a SBC. Thanks again!
Great video! It’s about time somebody explained this method perfectly and easily. Well done sir.
VettePurist, thank you very much I really appreciate the kind comment, and thank you for watching!
Many different views on the amount of turns past zero lash.
All my old service manuals say one full turn, but many video people say 1/2 and 3/4 turn.
I like the fact that you specify an actual tolerance and how to measure it.
I like this tightening method as well. First time I've seen these methods out of dozens of videos.
Yeah again thanks for the video it was of great help I haven't worked on a motor to this extent I'm just one of those guys jack of most trades master of none
Thank you. Thank you. Thank you. I tried another method I saw on CZcams and it caused my valves to remain open, losing all compression and a crank/no start situation for my newly rebuilt motor. I followed your method and the engine started right up! I did it with the valve covers off and stopped the engine, checked for loose rockers and gave them a slight adjustment. I repeated this method 3 more times and it took all the slack/lash out of the rocker arms. They don't even click when the engine is running and it's running very smooth. Thanks again!
Thank you for the great compliment Sean, I really do appreciate it. I have used this method many times and added my own measuring with the weld rod, it gives me piece of mind it is right the first time.
@@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay I didn't use the rod method as the intake manifold was already installed. Just the order of procedure was enough to get it to start right up. Much appreciated.
Thank you very much for this video. It has been a long time since I had an engine that I needed to work on. I always had to get someone else to adjust my rocker arms as I could never get them right. Fast forward 30 years in a post kid raising environment, I now have an old corvette that I am about to build an engine for and the only animosity that I have had has been laid to rest via your video. Thank you for the detailed explanation and the time that you took to make it.
Thank you for the kind words, much appreciated. Thanks for watching.
Love your videos! I’m an LS build guy, but rebuilding my sons first car which is a 81 Corvette. Thanks again! 🙌
Best video on this yet. Very informative. Very easy way to do it.
Thank you for the kind comment, I like to make my videos simple and informative.
Thanks I have adjusted valves in this method before but couldn’t remember the steps. Thanks a lot.
Your welcome glad to help. Thanks for your comment.
Thanks for the video. Nice job. My 68 307 had been sitting and 3 intake pushrods bent on the right side head cyl 2 4 and 8. I got some new pushrods and will use your advice. The sbc is fun to work on and such a great design. Thanks
thankyou. i have been going in circles trying to set my lash. fear of over adjusting. i kept my zero plus half a turn. also worried about over tightening the lock nuts fear of heat expansion. i kept ending up with rockers loose again. thanks for for the sequence. saving me eight complete rotations.
Glad it helped you, thank you for watching and the comment.
Very simple but effective method. Thanks.
slonold, thank you for the comment.
Very good video my brother you would be a excellent instructor👍 whenever you start class let me know I'll be there...
I ;m getting ready to do this on my 350 first time for me,you have answered all question thanks
Thank you for your comment I try to do my best!
Best Video I found so far! You sir are a wealth of information :)
Thank you very, awesome comment!
Hi Ricky , is this method of installing hydraulic lifters / pushrods correct for a 6.5l diesel engine?
Dave Qld Australia
ABSOLUTELY helpful 👍🏼😎🏁🏁🏁
great vid man, thays how my daddy did it as well!
Thank you!
do you have to take the intake off to do this method or just to verify
what i don't understand is that you do not use a feeler gauge to set valve lash. can you explain that?
alvin hartley, unlike mechanical lifters you cannot put a feeler gauge between the rocker arm and the pushrod. The gap you need to measure is with the intake removed between the lifter clip and the pushrod cup.
hello what is the procedure for a V6, ajusting the valves
thanks
Well stated .. So a non ase wrench head can understand, thank you worked beautiful and saved mucho casho......goaty
Jeff Lietzke, thank you for watching, glad everything worked out.
Thank you for this video. I had not seen this method and it looks fail-safe to me especially with the added dimension of using the heliarc tool to check lifter internal clearance. I have to ask too if you had to do anything to the lifters prior to checking lash to insure that there was enough travel within the lifter. In other words is it necessary to remove the lifters from the engine and bleed the oil out and then reinstall the lifters before setting lash ? AW
When number 1 at Top Dead Center. Is number 6 cylinder at top.dead Center as well because mine is.
thank you great video
Thank you for everything bossman
Your very welcome, and thank you!
Sadly from 2030 on all combustion cars including classics will be banned
from public streets in entire EU and Scandinavia :-( In Germany the
Green Peoples Party gave order to shorten fuel supply from 2025 on by
reducing all conventional fuel stations to only one state operated
central gas station per city or county. Now they even want to slow down
all the gas pumps from 20 litre per minute to 2 litre per minute...From
2027 on in the EU certain car spare parts will be banned too....as
exhaust systems, turbo chargers and even some engine and gearbox
oils...California and New York will do the same from 2027 on.... So no
investments should be done in oil burning cars any longer....They even
created a new kind of crime here, called emissions and smoke crime.
GREAT VIDEO MY BROTHER SMART MECHANIC
Thanks so much! Glad you enjoyed it, happy to be of service. 😁
Just put new valve seals in. What would be the process to set the valves. Adjust till all play is out then a half turn more?
Yes, you can do that if the intake has not been removed, but to be sure and do it once watch this video it explains all and shows how to make a small gauge to verify the lifter is in the center of its travel. Then you know its correct. Thanks for watching.
How often, why do you adjust the valves? I'm a new sbc owner and just recently opened up the engine for the first time
Only readjust hydraulic lifters if you changed/replaced something. Camshaft/lifter or pushrod replacement, removed heads, etc.
@@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay I took off valve covers for new gaskets, changed plugs and wires and now that it's all back together I'm hearing a ticking noise. Hoping it can be fixed with thicker oil, I'm not ready to mess with those rockers
@@michaelcooper3381 changing valve cover gaskets will not change anything in the valve train to make you have to readjust the valves. Are you sure it wasn't ticking before you installed the new valve cover gaskets? Ticking can also be an exhaust leak either at the head or at the manifold to exhaust donut.
@@HRIservicesllcSturgeonBay it hasn't ran since September but I'm sure there was no tick before. I even drove about 10 miles after putting it all back together. Now that you say that about the exhaust, I did have to take off EGR valve and I cleaned with brake cleaner. Maybe it's clogged or just bad. I'll most likely bring it to my buddy's shop
@@michaelcooper3381 good luck!
Good vid gonna do this soon
does this apply to readjusting the valves after the motor is broken in, I have about 1500 miles on a new motor and need to adjust.
thanks
Yes it does apply, but if it was done correctly the first time there should be enough play in the hydraulic lifters that it should not have to be done again, there is .060" of play. Unless you remove the intake you will not be able to do the welding rod verification.
Ok thank you
Jody Ybarra, your welcome, anything you need just ask and I'll do my best to help.
I replaced the head gaskets on my small block, so the lifters have already have oil in them. Can I still use this method?
Ricky Hembel best valve adjustment video on CZcams.
Hey Ricky
after i adjust the valves and do the 360 turn...several valves are loose...should that be?
No there should be no loose valves, with the sequence I gave the valves are adjusted on the base or heel of the cam lobe, as the cam rotates the valve will only get tighter not looser. I'm not sure how you could get there, the lobes only get taller never lower? You will have to turn the engine another 360 degrees clockwise and re-check all the valves again.
I got a ?. what all should I do if my cam go bad. I know cam lifters, but cleaning the cam debris out of the engine
Gabe Wms, most of the debris should have already worked it's way to the oil pan with the oil flowing through the engine. I guess your answer depends on
how much debis there is, I would at least remove the oil pan, wash it clean, replace the gasket, and while it's off you can see how much debris you find to help decide if you need to go farther.
Thanks
Anytime!! Sorry it takes so long, I check and answer comments every day, sometimes it's like they get lost in cyberspace! When you look at them they are in no special order either, you'd think the newest one would be on top.
if i dont have a heliarc can I use a regular feeler gauge at 20thousandths?
You can try but most feeler gauges are to wide, the area you have to get in is a small curvature, and the lifter clip is right there also. Best off to find some sort of wire. Thanks for watching.
H.R.I. services llc Ricky Hembel i mean at the top of the pushrod. The depth in the hydraulic lifter should be static the second time you tighten the nut so any slack in the pushrod at the top should be able to be measured with the feeler gauge where it meets the rocker.
hi - im installing new lifters / pushrods and rockers in my older sbc engine.i need to know if i should soak the new lifters in oil before putting them in or just some assembly lube on the bottom before doing this procedure. does it matter if the lifters are pumped up or not before doing the adjustment? - thanks in advance Don
bigpaw64, it's always better to have more lubrication than less. You can use a push rod to pump the lifters up by hand to try getting some lubricant inside of the lifters. Or you can install them and just pour some oil over the lifters after adjustment is completed.
Do not pump the lifters up manually before engine start up. New lifters leak down very slowly so pumped up hydraulic lifters can act like solid lifters. Just rotate the oil pump before installing the distributor until you feel drag on the pump. This fills the oil filter and most of the oil galleys so on start up you have almost instant oil pressure which will then pump up the lifters naturally. You may have some clacking for a short while until the lifters get fully filled up.
Thanks Ricky
so 360 is one full turn correct? i will redo tomorrow
Curtis Brown, that's correct 360 degrees is one turn. The line on the harmonic balancer should start on zero (0) degrees #1 cylinder @ top dead center of the firing stroke, adjust the specific valves from the video. Then rotate the engine 360 degrees (one full turn clockwise) that would be #6 cylinder firing position, then adjust the rest of the valves from the video. Curtis I'll bet you adjusted the first section of valves on the # 6 firing position. before you turn it 360 degrees check the orientation of all of the valve lifters you are supposed the adjust in the first section of the video, they should all be down. Good luck.
good video my brother dont you have to turn them a half of turn not a whole turn...
This procedure should work on a Chevy BB as well...correct?
Yes you are correct Gerald all small and big block Chevrolets. Never was a big block guy so I had to verify. Not sure on some of the older models like 409, but I would think so since Cheverolet was great at keeping designs the same. That is why I've always been a Chevy fan.
Will this mess up the timing
kwame bradley, no adjusting the valves will not change the timing. Just realize you want to install the distributer with #1 cylinder at top dead center on the firing stroke (both intake and exhaust valves closed). Follow my video on static timing for that process.
Thanks for all your help!
now I have another issue...lol
suburban won't start. ..what can cause this?
Curtis Brown, I need more information, always remember you need fire, fuel, & oxygen to create a fire, an engine is the same, which one are you missing? check for spark first.
Hi Ricky,
Well...turn engine over, i have spark from plug..fuel coming in at fuel line when i push the stem.
Well if you have spark, you could try to take the air cleaner off and pour a very small amount of fuel in the carburetor/throttle body and turn the engine over and see if it fires up. You don’t want to pour in more than a shot glass. If it does not try to fire up, and you have good spark, my best guess is a timing issue. Were there any issues that led up to it not starting?
H.R.I. services llc Ricky Hembel no, it was cranking find just after the head job...its not starting.
Did you have the timing cover removed at any point in time on this engine that you would have had a chance to look a the timing cam gear? I ask this because the cam gear from the factory is aluminum with nylon teeth, after some mileage the nylon teeth will break off leaving a loose chain that can jump. Then the timing would no longer be correct.
One of those spray paint rebuilds
One head had a burnt valve, so I removed the heads, ground the seats, replaced all the valves and seals. Thanks for watching.
Great Video!!! I do have a crazy Q though... can I adjust a vortec 5.7 350 TDC with out heads and/or distributor on the engine. I know that #1 & #6 cylinders at TDC, but im not sure about the timing marks on the chain.
The valve lash adjustments are made by adjusting the rocker arm nuts which are attached to the top of the heads, so if there are no heads installed there would be no way to adjust valve lash. Thanks for the question, I hope this was the answer you were looking for? If not, please ask again, and I will try to assist.
+H.R.I. services llc Ricky Hembel Wow...i meant to ask...to find TDC with the heads or distributor off. Is it possible. Cylinders 1 & 6 are at the top of the block
That is correct, both #1 & #6 are at TDC at the same time, but they fire 180 degree's apart at the distributor, so when one of them is firing or on power stroke, the other is on the exhaust stroke. When you have the timing chain installed if the timing marks line up facing each other (cam gear mark down and crank gear mark up) that means #1 is in firing stroke, if you rotate the crankshaft 360 degree's from there the engine would be on #6 firing stroke (cam gear mark up and crank gear up. I believe that is what your looking for.
so therefore, after installing the heads back. torque them to specs, them the valves....after everything is back together it should fire up?
Yes provided you line up the timing marks (cam gear mark down and crank gear mark up). If your engine does not have a timing tab, I would make a small punch mark on the Harmonic balancer and the timing cover for a reference. I have videos on both static and dynamic timing that will help with distributor installation after setting the valves is completed.
Only go 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Not 1 full turn!
Thank you for your input, the one full turn after all play is removed is directly from a small block Chevy repair manual, as is the complete set of instructions.
Preload depends on your cam.. one full turn is excessive
Hi def camera?
strokervette73, yes, I always try to give you the best clairity.
i followed the instructions..not sure what happened
The only thing I can think of is that you started on #6 firing position instead of #1.
Play some Iron Maiden music on your videos
CZcams only gives us cheezy music, if we use something that we don't have permission to use they get the little money we make on monetization. Sorry but I don't think that part of my videos will get much better. 😁 thanks for the comment Mike, glad you enjoyed the video.
There is a Much better way and a lot easier and quicker check out " The Engine Guy " All Hydraulic Lifter engines and even solid engines can be done this way, doing as the Engine Guy says your engine will start first time every time, you will not have to go back and do anything. I have used this Same method for 40 years with no problems and have built Thousands of Engines.
Thanks for your input Garry, I have not built "thousands" of engines, but will tell you my way works every time also, and it mimicks the actual GM process. I will check it out though, thank you for the comment.
Good video, but get rid of that damn music. Why is it that all Auto videos have
Annoying music.
Why you keep looking de video lol
He, He, He, that's funny!
Hahahaha that is the hardest way to do that and then it's not even accurate
Well it's pretty much exactly the way Chevrolet recommends. It was taken from a Chevrolet repair manual. Thanks for your comment.