Speedmaster Big Block Chevy Head Review
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- Review of the Speedmaster big block Chevy oval port heads. Full visual inspection, disassembly and measurement of the critical parts - runners and valve runout. Very surprising results from these very cost effective heads.
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1st off, thanks for the honesty, I come from a drag racing family, we,ve been using these speed master heads with no problems. We did have to stop using a local machinist though,because he didn't like the fact that the heads were Chinese made and he got caught damaging a customer's heads. We love, Brodix and AFR, but when building a street machine for a nephew or nieces first project, they're just fine
I get that not everyone can afford a US made product and sometimes the off shore brand is the way to stay in the game. I gave these an honest review based on the facts, not an opinion. For the cost, these are very good heads. We’ll eventually get them to the dyno to see how they preform. Until then, I’m happy with the results. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the review it took away some concern that I had with some people saying that they are junk because I purchased the top end kit from speedmaster 79 last year I got heads complete with rockers plus an air gap intake and valve covers for around 1400 delivered still got to get my rotating assembly 496 what else mean time I'm shifting at 6 on the couch but I'm going to buy the tools to check the seat run out
I just bought these exact same heads! I was worried they were going to be junk, but I guess not! I got these complete heads for less money than I can get ONE bare AFR head. Unreal. I’m still going to have them ported and install the correct springs. Thanks for doing this video!
I was very surprised at the results. They’ve since visited a machinist to clean up one guide that I didn’t like the runout on, but other than that, I could have bolted them on with no ill effects. Price is right!
Been using these heads for years . Have them right now on a 496 big block Chevy in a 68 El Camino SS . Skip white sets them up for me and I’ve never had a problem .
Thanks for the info Mike! Been looking at the Skip White 335 Bravos for my next build.
Would be great to have a starting point on the pushrod measurement
What type of horsepower are you making with the 496 with these heads?
Only complaint I've had on speedmaster heads is that they don't break the tabs off of the helicoil, this is especially critical on rocker stud holes because they will break off and go through the engine
I dyno them before makina a recommendation. I have heard of early ones having seats pop out.
I bought a set of them and had no problem with them at all. PCE281-2037 Rect. port, 125cc chambers. They had stainless exhaust valves and regular steel intakes. Like they used in vehicles for years. It's a street machine with low compression and a mild roller cam. NOTE: I used Edelbock head bolts, #135-3610. Edelbrock 5745 springs, guide plates and rocker studs.
I purchased these for my 427 Chevy. Summit sold me the head bolts that were too short and ended up pulling the threads out of the block.the the pushrod measurement was way off from where speedmaster said it should be.while the machine shop was impressed with the quality I’m still trying to get these to work on my engine!
I used Edelbrock head bolts with them. All the thread length's were correct. Part # 135-1610
I wish Speedmaster offered these aluminum ovals in a smaller volume runner. Like a 270cc as a low cost street alternative to the Brodix RR's.
Assault heads are similar, high quality Chinese castings, and machined and loaded in Iowa by KMJ. They get great reviews as well.
I have been using these heads for around 17 years and have built at least 20 engines with these heads and have never encountered any problems, just make sure you are ordering the right head for the right cam and lift, i also fill each chamber with alcahol and let them set to make sure there is no seepage around the valves.
I’m building a 350, do you buy them assembled now a days? My speedmasters just arrived assembled. Good to use?
@@kevinhendley8524 always check the heads over and make sure you do a leak test that you can do by pouring alcohol into the intake chamber and watch to see if it leaks by the valves let it set for a day then flip the head over and fill the exhaust ports to see if it leaks by the valves and let it set for a day , if there are no leaks and your inspection of these heads turns up nothing only then do i bolt them up. if any problem your not sure about call speedmaster and they will advise you.
I wish he would have checked the rocker stud hole alignment. I had an early procomp set where the holes were way off.
I would be more comfortable with the runoff not to exceed 1 th .a stone or a neway that contacts the seat 360 degrees constantly will get that done. Does anyone agree.
Here from your sale video, these loaded with valves and the ARP hardware is an excellent price !
I was thinking of getting a set of these for a budget hydraulic flat tappet single turbo 454 budget build using ebay or marketplace secondhand parts. I kind of am counting on having to replace the valves and have them re valve jobbed., lest the springs. I will port them using vizard's golden porting rules, but probably have the guy doing the valve job get the bowls at 91% or whatever. Doesn't sound too bad so far
This set is for sale on my website
Here is my problem with Speedmaster. I ordered a set of oval port bbc heads. They sent me rec ports. I ordered the dual plane intake and they sent me a single plane. I ordered 4.310 bore pistons and they sent 4.280's. I ordered 125# spings for a flat tappet cam, and they sent 185#'s for a solid roller. They will ship out whatever they have just to fill orders and not have to tell you it's out of stock. When i sent them screenshots of my actual order from their website and pics of the wrong parts they shipped, they told me to return them at MY expense.
Just bought a bare set of these during the Speed master black Friday sale, in no small part due to this review. Waiting for them to arrive. I got them at a very good price on sale.
My hope is that they can perform as well as a set of GM 781/049 cast iron heads that have been lightly ported, only with the weight savings of aluminum.
Decided to go with a bare set so as to use better valves and springs, retainers, locks, etc. on my hydraulic roller cammed 468 or 496.
I'm a little concerned about port velocity with the 305 intake runners though. Velocity = torque.
If for some reason I decide against using them, I believe I can sell them for a small profit.
They for sure tested well. I wouldn’t have had any issue running then at that quality. It’s all off shore stuff, so the only thing I’d recommend is have your machinist verify run out and the valve job, put the springs you need on and you’re ready to go! Thanks again for the questions on last nights live stream!
@@MuscleCarSolutions good deal. I'm in no hurry to assemble the engine. Might get around to it late spring or early summer. The heads will just be going on a street car that would only occasionally visit the track
Enjoyed your live feed. You've got a good channel. Hope you feel better. 👍
You could just lap the valves, that would make sure they seal, and fill the ports with fluid to check for leaks.
I just got a set and you can’t screw the rocker studs all the way down because they hit the push rod guides. There’s no way to get a socket on the rocker studs with them touching the push rod guides. They also put heli coils where the rocker studs go that aren’t deep enough for all the threads of the rocker stud.
Thank you for this video. I'm building my first engine (454) with the help of my Uncles who are engine builders. I liked the test that you showed and what and how to check after market heads.
You’re welcome! I just wanted to take the BS out of it and actually show what they are right out of the box.
I subscribed to your channel to hopefully learn more. I'm a machinist by trade but have never built a hot rod. It's a "Bucket List Thing" and a chance to have some good memories with my Uncles.
Heck yeah! Sounds like a good time for all of you! Glad to have you here. If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to ask. Always happy to help sort out issues.
Good. To hear. I just ordered a set of sbf bare cast iron. Hopefully they check out as well. Thank yoh
3 years later, did they hold up, did the valves and springs live ???
Very good inspection and very helpful thanks
What was combustion chamber size on these?
Thank you for this great info!! You should be sponsor by speedster for such a good review plus I learned so much from this video new follower for sure 👍🏼
@musclecarsolutions I just found out my cam and lifter are bad and will need a new one.. What can and lifter will you recommend for this heads? Might as well mix and match for better performance, my first build and have no idea how to mix and match
Thank you once again.
A lot more info needed to select a cam. But those heads are capable of making some decent power. All depends on the total recipe and what your plans are for the vehicle it’s going in.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I am doing a little more research I want something that performs good and sounds good but add boost in the future
Thank you. This is very helpful
Adam Winters thanks!
Speedmaster is pro comp electrics. That's why part number starts with PCE on their heads. Pro comp electrics sells China junk with horrible reviews in the past so now they are going under the speedmaster name.
wow great video! a guy is currently building me a mopar 360 magnum, and he got a pair of these speedmaster cnc heads. he went with the bare casting so he can scrutinize them and further modify. he was going with also speedmaster roller shaft rockers and i said no, too many bad reviews on their rockers of coming apart! so hes going to use oem stamped non rollers coz they are more bullet proof and reliable with no periodic adjustments with (hydraulic roller cam). theres really no power gains going to rollers, and dynos have proven that, waste of money
A good quality roller rocker is essential for getting both truw lift as well as duration.
A LA Mopar with a roller cam is simply going to be an accident!
@@ldnwholesale8552 well i decided to go with harland sharp roller rockers, wise choice
Did the chambers cc out to 119?
i don't see a link for concentricity measuring tool listed. Where did you get this tool?
Thanks. Very informative. Couple of questions. 1) is there a difference in the quality of Aluminum used for castings and Alum. density? 2) How do you determine if the hardware is a decent quality? Many have commented to just replace everything in the head with better parts. Perhaps another video? Perhaps buy Skip White heads with their hardware? Much Thanks!
1) doubtful. China produces most of the worlds aluminum. I’m sure there are different grades of raw aluminum, but I have neither the desire to hack off a large enough sample to send to a lab for the analysis nor the money to do so. Unless these come apart on me, which I haven’t seen any examples of that. 2) you don’t really. The valves for what I’m doing are likely just fine. The springs, locks, retainers are now the COMP parts to match my cam and the studs. Well I guess I’ll just find out down the road. Good luck if you buy from skip white. You can Google that and make your own decision.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thanks! All the info is greatly appreciated. To those of us who don't know al the details, it is nice to be able to get an honest opinion from and educated person.
Never used these heads before and wanted to give them a try. Been worth it so far. I have no complaints.
The skip white version on ebay is far superior. I use American made heads from Brodix or Afr but sometimes the customer brings some of these heads and I repair as necessary to secure a good job.
Not sure I would call anything from that retailer “superior”. Lots of shady activity from them in the past. There aren’t that many sources in China to buy those heads. Don’t be surprised if they’re the exact same castings.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I think they are the same casting. The valvetrain the skip white store sells is light years ahead of pro Comp. Throw away the guidplates and studs and use good components. The rest is self explanatory.
@@twinturbocoyoteftw I’d give the nod to skip white on the valvetrain stuff. They use a lot of comp cams components and Speedmaster uses the offshore stuff.
Agreed I use a ton of isky and jesel stuff but we all can't afford that gold valvetrain!! Howard's has stepped up their game!
@@twinturbocoyoteftw I hate to break it to you, but AFR heads are Chinese castings. They're owned by the same company who also owns Scat now.
What year start & end years for the 454 will these heads work with?
Thanks
Just make note the year they change to the other gasket (mark V to mark vi big block) as some of the cooling holes are different between certain heads/ block/ gasket.
90/91-95 not sure exactly. But easiest way to tell is the mechanical fuel pump provision. Gen 5 was the only gen to not have the cutout for the mech fuel pump
Deer muscle car Solutions have you tried any of the small block Chevy heads that Speedmaster makes I would like to hear about that because I'm running a small block not a big block , and thank you for your honest video that you presented .
I’ve not used any of their small block heads but I wouldn’t anticipate the results to be any different.
I've been watching bbc videos for 5 years now..this is by far the best vid I seen about heads..thanks alot ...I just a hourly worker and I really needed this before I invest...what type of cam do u recommend
Thanks! That was the goal. To break it down so you know what you’re buying before you spend that hard earned cash.
Cam selection will depend on all the normal variables. What you’re using the engine for. What vehicle. What rpm range you’re trying to operate at. Any power adders like nitrous or boost. What transmission. Weight of the car. And so on and so on... But the specs on the head are pretty good for a mild street engine up to a fairly decent weekend racer.
@@MuscleCarSolutions again thank you...much respect for you taking the time 4 a small guy with big dreams...
@@roddypiper2810 were in the same boat! Glad it was useful for you!!
If you don’t mind, who do you use to do your machine work?
do you know what angle the valve seats were cut at?
Any issues with valve train geometry? I've also heard the rocker arm bosses can be weak. However, that may only be a problem with the extremely high spring pressures associated with big solid roller cams.
I’ve had zero issues.
So you think the plugs weren’t tapped so you could index the plugs the way you want to ?
Indexing isn’t worth the time spent on it. The issue is sure you can point the gap at the intake valve and there might be a couple HP in it but the problem is to know if it really worked, you’re spending an awful lot of time and money on the dyno to find that unnoticeable gain in HP. Plus it depends on the chamber and the piston. And sometimes it means rotating the gap around to find where it’s picking up power. You’ll spend a ridiculous amount of time and money looking for power that you’ll never know is there.
You need a Felpro 1212 intake gasket oval port heads and a Felpro 1017-1 head gasket for Mark V & VI blocks because the combustion chambers are very large in these heads
Not for Gen V and VI blocks.
What was the seat pressure of the springs ? Were they for a Hyd. Solid or Roller cam ? Did you check that for uniformity ? Thanks.
Didn’t test it as I went with my own valve train to match the cam. But they were ordered with springs for a hydraulic roller.
@bone head excuse the dumb question just getting into all this will the 396 heads fit the 454
@@MuscleCarSolutions I too am in the market for a budget friendly oval port BBC head, these look very promising however my BBC is a 396/402 and im worried that the Valve size will cause to much shrouding. I feel an ideal size would be 2.19/1.88 but i believe these are the 2.25 valves correct? TFS makes a 290 Oval head with 2.19 valves that they advertise flow really well but at $1600 bare there a little pricey. What do you think about what ive mentioned using these heads on a 396/402 block in relationship to the valve size? thanks
@@IT3Mack With a 396 the compression ratio will be to low, unless you have dome pistons. You could relive the combustion chamber next to the valves for unshrouding.
Yes, and it a good upgrade because the closed chamber will make 9:1 ratio with a steel shim gasket.
Joe, I have -41 CC dome KB pistons, I guess what I’m more worried about is the shrouding from a 2.25 valve, I know I could get some relief but I don’t think enough. The block is a fresh 402 bore. I’ve been looking hard at the TFS 280 heads that come with 2.18 valves but at $1300 a pop it’s not in my budget, at least not right now. Thanks for the reply!
@@IT3Mack Finding the most reputable machine shop in your area is a must. They should be happy to help you pick the best Parts for your build, new or used. Never Just put something together without a good shop checking it out. This will save you $$$ and headaches in the longterm. Just my 2cents. Good luck and have fun...
Are these heads set up for a roller OR flat tappet cams?
Is there a way to measure the lift,etc. on a camshaft in my 454 I picked up from a local pickapart? The valve train except the springs had been removed before I got it and I am wondering what it may be.
You could pay for a company to measure it with an adcole (not a cam doctor) and find out. The question is why would you want to? Factory cam I’m assuming?
@@MuscleCarSolutions No, aftermarket retrofit
@@stevefranklin9920 If it’s an aftermarket cam get the numbers off the back of the cam and call the manufacturer
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks! I'll check it out! Any idea about what a 454 4 bolt main long block would be worth?
You can degree the cam yourself and as you do so you can write a REAL Cam Card from the readings you get off your Degree Wheel. I have done this on most every Race Engine i have built since back in 1989. You will find that most Cam Cards are not as precise as they should be. When a Builder is searching for every Cubic Inch of Free HP and TQ he should do as i do. This is in my opinion a Mandatory Part of being a Real Engine Builder that takes Pride in his work. This also only takes a few extra minutes once you begin the Cam Degree Process.
Was the spring pressure and installed height suitable for a good street cam?
joe I didn’t use them. I used the matched springs for the cam I’m using.
@@MuscleCarSolutions That would be the way to go of course. Was just wondering what they would be suitable for.
What would my compression be if i put these on a LS6 454 bottom end?
No clue. Time to pick up a piston catalog and find yours and match it up with the chamber size to get your CR.
@@MuscleCarSolutions hard to find those pistons I do know they make 11.25.1 on a closed chamber 98 cc. Thanks anyway.
Good information and professional
Thanks!
I would stick to the most reputable manufacturers when building a big block chevy, it is not worth it to save a few bucks on an offshore head. Stick with GM, Dart, Brodix, AFR, Edelbrock, etc. and you will be fine. It is worth the extra money.
I'm ok with saving the $1000. Never had one fail yet. Money better spent in other areas.
Yes lots of cheap chinese knock off heads, on the other hand a a machinist did a head to head with KMJs vs Brodix hands down KMJ out performed Brodix 345cc with same valves and springs, last build with cheap flotek heads machine shop was suprised how little work it needed lol. Said they was good heads especially for the price.
Most all aluminum that is used in the construction of Edelbrock, AFR, etc. heads is sourced from China.
AFR uses Chinese castings. I'm not sure why everyone thinks otherwise. They're owned by the same company who owns Scat, who also uses imported metals in all of their stuff. It just costs so much more, to produce the same damn thing in our country, sadly.
Are these heads the same as the pro comp aluminum heads?
Same company, but I have no comparison to a comparable part number pro comp head.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks, I have them on a 302 in a 62 Falcon. Just wondering if they are any better than the OEM heads.
is there a good cylinder head producer out there you can trust
Sure there is. Edelbrock and their foundry make heads for a lot of the US brands. They cast them and usually the buyer CNC’s them. I’ve never been a big fan of the offshore stuff, but for a solid street car, these will do everything I need and more.
AFR is the best out there imo
Would you run these out of the box with valve and springs. I have a low compression 73 mark iv 454 with ported 781 heads. Im wondering if I get a set and port them would it be worth it for power gains. Was thinking just use the comp springs that came with my cam
NO! Never unbox heads and install. You need to check that all of the springs meet you cam spec needs and you need to check that the valves are seating correctly no matter what brand you buy. It is reported that some valves are made of Chinesium so beware. You need to go to an AFR 265 to beat your ported 781s, depending on how they were ported. Knowing what you have with your 781s would require them some time on the flow bench unless you already have that info. Heads and camshaft will make or break your engine.
Im not a professional but I under the impression that 345 cfm was for no smaller than 500 cubic inch to 600 plus so for 454 I wouldn't even port these heads
Wow thank you Mega Brain now I can sleep at night....
I don’t think these heads or the head gasket is for a gen 5. Gen 5 has bigger and longer coolant openings in the block. Have to make sure you get correct gasket for the block before the heads.
If I was going to buy aluminum heads I certainly wouldn't have bought overboard heads regardless what intake I was using
@@MuscleCarSolutions I was wondering the same thing.
Exactly lol
@@MuscleCarSolutions I could throw one overboard at the lake and see who dives for it
Will these heads work on a Gen V 454 head?
They will fit with the correct gasket.
He said in the opening that they are for his Gen V! 🙄
People act like engine building is rocket science, bolt um on and send it if it fails it fails.
Wow,engine "blueprinting" is a science.
Bolt them on...good luck,when you drop a valve because you didn't bother checking the guides and all of the other appropriate processes you will have learned that your "just bolt them on "statement is based on pure ignorance.good luck beginning your learning process.
Why not put #6 fuel oil in the tank and send it? There is a good reason people investigate what they are putting their money into. Stick to putting the lettuce on Whoppers pal.
@@tonysextremerestorations9896 it's based on 10 years of being a engine mechanic
@@thegreenerthemeaner I promise you I have more HP sitting in my garage then you've ever seen in person
@@benolofson9732 Engine mechanic? I'd never let you work on anything of mine with that "just bolt them on and send it" mentality.
Hmm, do you work for speedmaster?
joe I do not.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Ok, just checking.
Buy quality instead of cheap junk
Absolutely true! These turned out to be a very nice set of heads.
My 360 port peanut port heads crush those junk heads at the track. I make 570hp with old truck heads with a Single plane Holley Intake manifold
You can accidentally make 600 hp with a big block and a cam swap. Those poor little peanut ports choking yours down. 😆
@@MuscleCarSolutions I'm making 620hp in my74 vette with the speed masters and a little work
@T B Peanut port heads tells me everything I need to know about how accurate your 570hp number is. Next thing you'll be telling me about the 3/4 race cam you're gonna put in it, and bump that number up to 750hp! I'm betting whatever junk you're driving could be timed on a calendar! 570hp running peanut port heads, and single plane intake don't even work well together, you do know that though, right?
If I have to spend $500 for a shop to check and rework them ...then I would never buy these junk things ....corporate greed ...with no quality ....another grift company...
Hate to tell you but even the “top” companies have very questionable specs on valves and runout. And every engine builder likes a certain spec depending on their use. Very common to go back through and measure and change springs.